Waves are caused by wind dragging across the surface of water, causing the water to oscillate rather than move as a solid block. Individual water particles move in circles while the wave energy travels forward. Key characteristics of waves include their height from trough to crest, wavelength between two crests, and period of time for one full wavelength to pass. Wave size depends on wind speed, duration, and the distance of open water over which the wind blows known as fetch. As waves approach shore, their speed decreases causing their height to increase and wavelength to decrease, sometimes causing waves to break.

1. Daisy Mae A. Valeroso

2. Wave
 In deep water, wave is a forward
motion of energy, not water.
Water does not move with the
wave.

3. Wave
 The most common cause of the wave is
wind.
 The wind is the forward movement of
oceans water due to the oscillation of
water particles by the frictional drag of
wind over the water’s surface.

4. Anatomy of a Wave

5. Wave Parts:
 crest- highest point
 trough- valley between two waves,
lowest point

6. Wave Characteristics:
 Most ocean waves obtain their energy and
motion from the wind.
 The wave height is the vertical distance
between the trough and crest.
 The wavelength is the horizontal distance
between two successive crests or two
successive troughs.

7. Wave Characteristics:
• The wave period is the time it takes one full
wave—one wavelength—to pass a fixed position.
• Fetch is the distance that the wind has traveled
across open water.
• The height, length, and period that are eventually
achieved by a wave depend on three factors: wind
speed, length of time the wind has blown, and
fetch.

8. Wave Motion
 Circular orbital motion allows energy
to move forward through the water
while the individual water particles
that transmit the wave move around
in a circle.

9. Breaking Waves
 Changes occur as a wave moves onto shore.
 As the waves touch bottom, wave speed
decreases. The decrease in wave speed
results in a decrease in wavelength and an
increase in wave height.

10. Breaking Waves

11. Waves
 Wave trains are waves travel in groups.
 Wake is a small wave trains caused by a
boat’s movement .
 Tidal waves and tsunami are caused by
undersea earthquakes or sharp motions in
the seafloor.
 Swells are regular patterns of smooth
rounded waves in the open sea.

12. Thank You
for Watching.