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OCEAN
MOVEMENTS
1
Waves
A wave is a rhythmic movement that
carries energy through space or
matter, such as ocean water.
2
Waves
In deep water, a wave is a forward
motion of energy, not water. In fact,
the water does not move forward with
a wave. If we followed a single drop
of water during a passing wave, we
would see it move in a circular pattern
returning to a point near its original
position at the wave’s end.
3
Wave Characteristics
• A crest is the highest point of a
wave.
• A trough is the lowest point of a
wave.
4
•The vertical distance between crest
& trough is the wave height.
•The horizontal crest-to-crest
distance is the wavelength.
5
Wave Characteristics
Wave Characteristics
• The wavelength determines the
wave base, which is the depth to
which the wave disturbs the
water.
• Wave speed increases with
wavelength.
6
Wave Height
Wave height is determined by:
the strength of the wind, the expanse of water that the wind blows across (or the fetch), & the length of time of the dust (or duration.)
Large storm waves have higher than average heights.
7
Breaking Waves
 Ocean waves begin to lose energy
& slow down near the shore
because of friction with the ocean
bottom.
 As the wave approaches more
shallow water, or water that is
half the wavelength or less deep,
the incoming wave crests gradually
catch up with the slower wave
crests ahead.
8
collapse
forward when
the wave
becomes higher,
steeper, &
unstable as it
nears shore.
9
Breakers occur
where the crests
Breaking Waves
Breaking Waves
11
Tides
• Tides are the periodic rise &
fall of sea level.
• High tides are the highest
level to which water rises in
an area.
• Low tides are the lowest level
to which water recedes in an
area. 12
Tides
Generally, the daily cycle of tides is
determined by the Earth’s rotation &
the Moon’s orbit around Earth. As
the Earth rotates once on its axis (in
24 hours), the Moon is revolving
1/30th
of the way around in its orbit.
It takes a given location on Earth
about 50 minutes to “catch up with”
the orbiting Moon, so a particular
tide returns in approximately 24
hours & 50 minutes. 13
Differences in topography & latitude
cause three different daily tide
cycles.
The 3 tide cycles are:
1) Areas with semidiurnal cycles
experience two high tides per day.
2) Areas with mixed cycles have
one pronounced & one smaller high
tide each day.
14
Different Daily Tide Cycles
3) Areas with diurnal cycles have
one high tide per day.
15
Different Daily Tide Cycles
16
Different Daily Tide Cycles
Causes of Tides
• The basic causes of tides are the
gravitational attraction among the
Earth, Moon & Sun, as well as
the fact that gravitational
attraction decreases with
distance.
• The Moon has a greater affect
because it is closer to Earth. The
Sun, even though it is much larger
than the Moon, has a lesser affect
because it is farther from Earth. 17
18
Monthly Tide Cycles: Spring & Neap Tides
19
Monthly Tide Cycles: Spring & Neap Tides
Spring tides occur twice a month
during the full & new Moon. When
the Sun, Earth, & Moon are
aligned causing high tides to be
higher than normal & low tides to
be lower than normal.
20
Monthly Tide Cycles: Spring Tides
Spring think “straight line.”
Neap tides occur when the Sun,
Earth, & Moon form a right angle, as
seen during 1st
& 3rd
quarter Moon
phases. The gravitational pull of the
Sun & Moon “fight” each other, & we
notice smaller difference between
high & low tides. High tides are lower
& low tides are higher than normal.
21
Monthly Tide Cycles: Neap Tides
Neap think “ninety degrees.”
22
Monthly Tide Cycles: Spring & Neap Tides
Ocean Currents
Currents are the movement of
water caused by differences in
temperature & salinity (density),
or caused by wind.
23
What causes the currents to flow in
different directions?
The CORIOLIS EFFECT
• The CORIOLIS EFFECT occurs
because Earth rotates East to West,
water and particles are deflected.
• In Northern hemisphere currents flow
clockwise & in the Southern
hemisphere currents flow
counterclockwise.
24
CORIOLIS EFFECT is responsible
for the patterns of currents &
WEATHER!
Surface Currents: Caused by the
movement of wind across the
oceans surface.
Deep or Denisty Currents: Caused
by the differences of temperature
or salinity of the water. 25
Surface Currents you need to know:
Gulf Stream, Canary, California,
North Equatorial, South Equatorial,
Kuroshio, East Australia, Peru,
Benguela, Antarctic Circumpolar,
Aguihas, North Atlantic, Greenland,
Labrador, & Brazil currents.
26
Deep Ocean or Denisty Currents:
Currents caused by the differences
in temperature & salinity. Not
affected by wind because they are
too deep.
These
currents are
known as
the Global
Conveyor
Belt.
27
Other Important Ocean Movements
Upwelling is where low-oxygen deep
water is moved up to the surface
due to differences in density. This
water is rich in nutrients which
supports marine life.
28

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Ocean motion

  • 2. Waves A wave is a rhythmic movement that carries energy through space or matter, such as ocean water. 2
  • 3. Waves In deep water, a wave is a forward motion of energy, not water. In fact, the water does not move forward with a wave. If we followed a single drop of water during a passing wave, we would see it move in a circular pattern returning to a point near its original position at the wave’s end. 3
  • 4. Wave Characteristics • A crest is the highest point of a wave. • A trough is the lowest point of a wave. 4
  • 5. •The vertical distance between crest & trough is the wave height. •The horizontal crest-to-crest distance is the wavelength. 5 Wave Characteristics
  • 6. Wave Characteristics • The wavelength determines the wave base, which is the depth to which the wave disturbs the water. • Wave speed increases with wavelength. 6
  • 7. Wave Height Wave height is determined by: the strength of the wind, the expanse of water that the wind blows across (or the fetch), & the length of time of the dust (or duration.) Large storm waves have higher than average heights. 7
  • 8. Breaking Waves  Ocean waves begin to lose energy & slow down near the shore because of friction with the ocean bottom.  As the wave approaches more shallow water, or water that is half the wavelength or less deep, the incoming wave crests gradually catch up with the slower wave crests ahead. 8
  • 9. collapse forward when the wave becomes higher, steeper, & unstable as it nears shore. 9 Breakers occur where the crests
  • 12. Tides • Tides are the periodic rise & fall of sea level. • High tides are the highest level to which water rises in an area. • Low tides are the lowest level to which water recedes in an area. 12
  • 13. Tides Generally, the daily cycle of tides is determined by the Earth’s rotation & the Moon’s orbit around Earth. As the Earth rotates once on its axis (in 24 hours), the Moon is revolving 1/30th of the way around in its orbit. It takes a given location on Earth about 50 minutes to “catch up with” the orbiting Moon, so a particular tide returns in approximately 24 hours & 50 minutes. 13
  • 14. Differences in topography & latitude cause three different daily tide cycles. The 3 tide cycles are: 1) Areas with semidiurnal cycles experience two high tides per day. 2) Areas with mixed cycles have one pronounced & one smaller high tide each day. 14 Different Daily Tide Cycles
  • 15. 3) Areas with diurnal cycles have one high tide per day. 15 Different Daily Tide Cycles
  • 17. Causes of Tides • The basic causes of tides are the gravitational attraction among the Earth, Moon & Sun, as well as the fact that gravitational attraction decreases with distance. • The Moon has a greater affect because it is closer to Earth. The Sun, even though it is much larger than the Moon, has a lesser affect because it is farther from Earth. 17
  • 18. 18 Monthly Tide Cycles: Spring & Neap Tides
  • 19. 19 Monthly Tide Cycles: Spring & Neap Tides
  • 20. Spring tides occur twice a month during the full & new Moon. When the Sun, Earth, & Moon are aligned causing high tides to be higher than normal & low tides to be lower than normal. 20 Monthly Tide Cycles: Spring Tides Spring think “straight line.”
  • 21. Neap tides occur when the Sun, Earth, & Moon form a right angle, as seen during 1st & 3rd quarter Moon phases. The gravitational pull of the Sun & Moon “fight” each other, & we notice smaller difference between high & low tides. High tides are lower & low tides are higher than normal. 21 Monthly Tide Cycles: Neap Tides Neap think “ninety degrees.”
  • 22. 22 Monthly Tide Cycles: Spring & Neap Tides
  • 23. Ocean Currents Currents are the movement of water caused by differences in temperature & salinity (density), or caused by wind. 23
  • 24. What causes the currents to flow in different directions? The CORIOLIS EFFECT • The CORIOLIS EFFECT occurs because Earth rotates East to West, water and particles are deflected. • In Northern hemisphere currents flow clockwise & in the Southern hemisphere currents flow counterclockwise. 24 CORIOLIS EFFECT is responsible for the patterns of currents & WEATHER!
  • 25. Surface Currents: Caused by the movement of wind across the oceans surface. Deep or Denisty Currents: Caused by the differences of temperature or salinity of the water. 25
  • 26. Surface Currents you need to know: Gulf Stream, Canary, California, North Equatorial, South Equatorial, Kuroshio, East Australia, Peru, Benguela, Antarctic Circumpolar, Aguihas, North Atlantic, Greenland, Labrador, & Brazil currents. 26
  • 27. Deep Ocean or Denisty Currents: Currents caused by the differences in temperature & salinity. Not affected by wind because they are too deep. These currents are known as the Global Conveyor Belt. 27
  • 28. Other Important Ocean Movements Upwelling is where low-oxygen deep water is moved up to the surface due to differences in density. This water is rich in nutrients which supports marine life. 28