Waves are never ending dynamic surfaces created by the action of wind on ocean surfaces. Waves are undulations of the surface layers of bodies of sea waters. Large bodies of water are almost constantly in motion. Ocean surface are never calm and smooth.They are uneven, irregular, rough and restless. Sea waves are defined as undulations of seawater characterized by unique features. Waves are moving energy patterns. They travel along the interface between ocean and the atmosphere.
The study of physical oceanography helps in understanding all these aspects in detail. Let us see most of these factors and processes in our future modules. Mathematical models of all these processes are also developed using these phenomena and mechanisms. The individual aspects of all the elements of physical oceanography are to be studied in detail.
Seas and Oceans are dynamic ecosystems. Oceans are very vast bodies of water. Wind blowing on the surface of the ocean has the greatest effect on the movement of surface water. Vertical or horizontal movement of both surface and deep water masses happen in the world’s oceans. They are called as Ocean currents. Currents normally move in certain specific directions. Hence, they aid in the circulation of the moisture on Earth. Because ocean currents circulate water worldwide, they have a significant impact on the movement of energy and moisture between the oceans and the atmosphere. As a result, they are important to the world’s weather.
The study of physical oceanography helps in understanding all these aspects in detail. Let us see most of these factors and processes in our future modules. Mathematical models of all these processes are also developed using these phenomena and mechanisms. The individual aspects of all the elements of physical oceanography are to be studied in detail.
Seas and Oceans are dynamic ecosystems. Oceans are very vast bodies of water. Wind blowing on the surface of the ocean has the greatest effect on the movement of surface water. Vertical or horizontal movement of both surface and deep water masses happen in the world’s oceans. They are called as Ocean currents. Currents normally move in certain specific directions. Hence, they aid in the circulation of the moisture on Earth. Because ocean currents circulate water worldwide, they have a significant impact on the movement of energy and moisture between the oceans and the atmosphere. As a result, they are important to the world’s weather.
presentation was provided by Prof W.U Chandrasekara
Department of Zoology and Environmental Management
For Coastal and Marine resource management course
presentation was provided by Prof W.U Chandrasekara
Department of Zoology and Environmental Management
For Coastal and Marine resource management course
Wind, Tides, Water waves, Wind rose and wave rose diagrams, wave diffraction, breaking, reflection, Littoral drift, sediment transport, Effects on Harbor and structure design.
OceansWavesWater particles that move through the tra.docxcherishwinsland
Oceans
Waves
Water particles that move through the transfer of energy causing oscillation.
Components of a wave
Crest
Trough
Wave Height
Wavelength
Amplitude
Amplitude
Wave Base
Breaker
Surf Zone
Beach
Beach / Shore
Berm
Shore face
Shoreline
Ocean Erosion / Transport
Rip Currents
Narrow current, in the surf zone, that flows seaward as water is often forced sideways by the oncoming waves.
Long shore Drift
transportation of sediments (clay, silt, and sand) along a coast and at an angle to the shoreline
Rip Currents
Long Shore Drift
A Tsunami’s Origin: Fault Movement
Normal Fault
Normal Fault
Reverse/Thrust Fault
Notable Tsunami
December 26 2004: the most powerful earthquake in 40 years triggers waves that travel thousands of miles to crash onto the coastlines of at least five Asian countries, killing more than 7,000 people and affecting millions of others
July 17 1998: an offshore quake triggers a wave that strikes the north coast of Papua New Guinea killing some 2,000 people and leaving thousands more homeless.
August 16 1976: a tsunami kills more than 5,000 people in the Moro Gulf region of the Philippines.
March 28 1964: Good Friday earthquake in Alaska sends out a wave swamping much of the Alaskan coast and destroying three villages. The wave kills 107 people in Alaska, four in Oregon and 11 in California as it sweeps down the West Coast.
May 22 1960: a wave reported as up to 11 meters high kills 1,000 in Chile and causes damage in Hawaii, where 61 die, and in the Philippines, Okinawa and Japan as it sweeps across the Pacific.
April 1 1946: Alaskan quake generates tsunami that destroys North Cape Lighthouse, killing five. Hours later the wave arrives at Hilo, Hawaii, killing 159 people and doing millions of dollars in damage.
January 31 1906: a devastating offshore quake submerges part of Tumaco, Colombia, and washes away every house on the coast between Rioverde, Ecuador, and Micay, Colombia. Death toll estimated at 500 to 1,500.
December 17 1896: a tsunami washes away part of the embankment and main boulevard of Santa Barbara, California.
June 15 1896: the Sanriku tsunami strikes Japan without warning. A wave estimated at more than 23 metres high hits a crowd gathered to celebrate a religious festival, killing more than 26,000 people.
August 27 1883: the eruption of the volcano Krakatau generates a massive wave that sweeps over the shores of nearby Java and Sumatra, killing 36,000 people.
November 1 1775: the great Lisbon earthquake generates a wave up to 6 metres high that strikes coastal Portugal, Spain and Morocco.
Sumatra 2004
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FOs3zxtNLkU
Japan 2011
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w3AdFjklR50
1
Oceans - Laboratory 12
_______________________
(Name)
How do ocean waves form?
“All waves are disturbances of a fluid medium through which energy is moved”
(Davis, 1997). Ocean waves travel on the interface betw.
Waves _______________________ (Name) How do ocea.docxmelbruce90096
Waves
_______________________
(Name)
How do ocean waves form?
“All waves are disturbances of a fluid medium through which energy is moved” (Davis,
1997). Ocean waves travel on the interface between oceans and the atmosphere, and are
produced most commonly by winds. As shown in Figure 1, the crest of a wave is its highest
point while the trough is the lowest. The height of the wave is the vertical distance between the
crest and the trough. The wavelength (λ) is the horizontal distance from crest to crest or from
trough to trough. The steepness is the ratio of its height to λ. When the steepness value reaches
0.143 (i.e., a ratio of 1:7), the crest of the wave breaks. Note that a steepness value less than
0.143 means a stable wave while one larger than 0.143 means an unstable breaking wave.
Figure 1. Key characteristics used to describe ocean waves.
Using Figure 1, please answer all of the following questions.
(1) What is the height of the illustrated wave?
(2) What is the wavelength?
(3) What is the steepness?
(4) Will the wave break given your answer to question (3)? Please briefly explain
your answer.
Using Figure 2, use two different colored pencils and sketch two waves:
Wave “A” has a height of 2 m and a wavelength of 10 m.
Wave “B” has a height of 4m and a wavelength of 6m.
For each wave, label the wavelength, wave height, crest, and trough.
Figure 2. A grid for drawing a wave.
(5) What is the steepness of wave A that you sketched?
(6) Will wave A break?
(7) What is the steepness of wave B that you sketched?
(8) Will wave B break?
When the interface between the oceans and the atmosphere is disturbed by a force, then
waves form. Most commonly that disturbing force is the friction of the wind moving across the
water. Once the wave has formed gravity acts against this disturbance, and attempts to restore the
water/atmosphere interface back to its flat-water position (i.e., a horizontal state). Hence, wind-
generated waves are sometimes referred to as gravity waves. As gravity pulls the crest of a wave
downward, momentum carries the water/atmosphere interface beyond the flat-water position to
form a trough. As a result, a buoy will appear to move up and down without being translated in
the direction that the waves appear to be moving. Such up and down motion will continue as
along as the wind is blowing. When the wind stops blowing, the water/atmosphere interface
returns to its normal flat-water state.
The period of a wave is the time it takes for one wavelength to pass a reference mark.
The periods for normal ocean waves range from a few seconds to about 15 seconds. Note that
this differs from wave celerity which is the speed at which a wave advances or propagates. Deep
water waves are waves that occur in water depth that is greater than one half their wavelength.
(9) If it takes 10 seconds for 1 wavelength.
Introduction to AS Edexcel crowded coasts with lots of info on things like mangroves, salt marshes, reefs, population amonst other stuff with some extras in it, I have altered this from one I got from the NING site
A2 CAMBRIDGE GEOGRAPHY: COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS - WAVE, MARINE AND SUB-AERIAL PROCESSES. An overall presentation of the first sub-chapter of Coastal Environments chapter.
3.ocean, geothermal, hydro and biomass energy resourcesDrPriteeRaotole
Ocean Energy: Ocean Energy Potential against Wind and Solar, Wave Characteristics
and Statistics, Wave Energy Devices.
Tidal energy,Tide characteristics and Statistics, Tide Energy Technologies, Ocean
Thermal Energy, Osmotic Power.
b. Geothermal Energy: Geothermal Resources, Geothermal Technologies.
c. Hydro Energy: Hydropower resources, hydropower technologies, environmental impact
of hydro power sources.
d. Biomass energy: biomass, biochemical conversion, biogas generation, Ocean biomass
E-content is a Comprehensive package of teaching material put into hypermedia format. Hypermedia is multimedia with internet deplorability. E-content can not be created by a teaching faculty alone . It needs the role of teacher, Video editor, production assistants, web developers (HTML 5 or Adobe captivate, etc). Analyze the learner needs and goals of the instructional material development, development of a delivery system and content, pilot study of the material developed, implementation, evaluating, refining the materials etc. In designing and development of E-content we have to adopt one of the instructional design models based on our requirements.
Pedagogy is the most commonly understood approach to teaching. It refers to the theory and practice of learning. Pedagogy is often described as the act of teaching. Pedagogy has little variations between traditional teaching and online teaching. Online teaching pedagogy is a method of effective teaching practice specifically developed for teaching via the internet. It has a set of prescribed methods, strategies, and practices for teaching academic subjects in an online (or blended) environment, where students are in a physical location separate from the faculty member.
Technology has changed the possibilities within teaching and learning. Classes, which prior to the digital era were restricted to lectures, talks, and physical objects, no longer have to be designed in that manner. Training in a synchronous virtual classroom can only be successful with the active participation and engagement of the learners. Explore the Virtual Classroom’s features and see how they can support and enhance your tutoring style.
• The monitoring and evaluation of the institutional processes require a carefully structured system of internal and external review. The NAAC expects the Institutions to undertake continuous Academic and Administrative Audits (AAA). This presentation is intended to serve as advisory to all accredited HEIs who volunteer to undertake AAA. The pros and cons of this process are also highlighted. Academic and Administrative Audit is the process of evaluating the efficiency and effectiveness of the administrative procedure. It includes assessment of policies, strategies & functions of the various administrative departments, control of the overall administrative system, etc. This checklist gives an overview what the audit committee members may look into while visiting an institution for this purpose. It invariably follows the Quality Indicators Framework prescribed by Accreditation Council in India.
• The monitoring and evaluation of the institutional processes require a carefully structured system of internal and external review. The NAAC expects the Institutions to undertake continuous Academic and Administrative Audits (AAA). This presentation is intended to serve as advisory to all accredited HEIs who volunteer to undertake AAA.
Chemical analysis data of water samples can not be used directly for understanding. They are to be used for various calculations in order to determine the quality parameters that have a lot of significances. A. Balasubramanian and D. Nagaraju, of the Department of Studies in Earth Science, Centre for Advanced Studies, University of Mysore, Mysore-570006, Karnataka, India have recently brought out a software and its application manual as a good book for reference and execution. The Name of the software is WATCHIT meaning Water Chemistry Interpretation Techniques. This software computes more than 100 parameters pertaining to water quality interpretations. The software follows its own method of approach to determine the required results. Systems International Units are used. Limited input parameters are required. This is suitable for all scientific research, government water quality data interpretations and for understanding the quality of water before using it.
Water conservation refers to reducing the usage of water and recycling of waste water for different purposes like domestic usage, industries, agriculture etc. This technical article highlights most of the popular methods of water conservation. A special note on rainwater harvesting is also provided.
This module gives an overview of general applications of current hydrogeological aspects. It is for the basic understanding of students and research scholars.
Climate Extreme (extreme weather or climate event) refers to the occurrence of a value of a weather or climate variable above (or below) a threshold value near the upper (or lower) ends of the range of observed values of the variable. Extreme weather and climate events, interacting with exposed and vulnerable human and natural systems, can lead to disasters.
WATER RESOURCES PLANNING AND MANAGEMENT POSSIBILITIES IN CHAMARAJANAGAR TALUK...Prof. A.Balasubramanian
Any unplanned development and utilization of water resources with result in water scarcity. In many parts of the developing world. Such a situation exists. In order to do proper planning and
management of water resources, it is necessary to conduct detailed analyses of the factors, which influence the water availability and its uses. In the present study, a comprehensive analysis have been undertaken for proper utilization of water resources in Chamarajanagar Taluk, which has been identified as one of the drought hit districts of Karnataka, in India. The factors analysed in this work are, surface and groundwater availability, land use, cropping pattern, recharge potential of soils and the rainfall pattern in typical areas of Taluk. It is observed that the problem of water scarcity is mainly due to the lack of irrigation planning and management. Hence, a
modified cropping pattern is suggested by taking into consideration of all available water resources and other conditions.
In broad terms, cultural geography examines the cultural values, practices, discursive and material expressions and artefacts of people, the cultural diversity and plurality of society.
It also emphasizes on how cultures are distributed over space, how places and identities are produced, how people make sense of places and build senses of place, and how people produce and communicate knowledge and meaning.
Minerals are formed by changes in chemical energy in systems which contain one fluid or vapor phase. In nature, minerals are formed by crystallisation or precipitation from concentrated solutions. These solutions are called as ore-bearing fluids. Ore-bearing fluids are characterised by high concentration of certain metallic or other elements.
Fluids are the most effective agents for the transport of material in the mantle and the Earth's crust.
Soils are complex mixers forming the skin of the earth's surface. Soil is a dynamic layer in which many complex chemical, physical and biological activities are going on constantly. Soils become adjusted to conditions of climate, landform and vegetation, and will change internally when those controlling conditions change. Soils are products of weathering. Soils play a dominant role in earth's geomorphic processes in a cyclic manner. The characteristics of soils are very essential for several reasons. This module highlights these characteristics.
GIS TECHNIQUES IN WATER RESOURCES PLANNING AND MANAGEMENT IN CHAMARAJANAGAR ...Prof. A.Balasubramanian
The over-exploitation and contamination of groundwater continue to threaten the long-term sustainability of our precious water resources, in spite of the best efforts made by various agencies.
This has many serious implications to the economic development of a country like India. Lack of
judicious planning and integration of environmental consideration to ground water development
projects are primarily responsible for such a state of affair in the ground water sector. Geographical Information Systems could be of immense help in planning sustainable ground water management strategies, especially in hard rock areas with limited ground water potential. Data collected from
Satellite Imagery and through field investigations have been integrated, on a GIS platform, for demarcation and prioritization of areas suitable for ground water development and ground water augmentation. An attempt has also been made to assess the vulnerability of the area to ground water
contamination. This paper demonstrates the utility of GIS in planning judicious management of ground water resources in a typical hard rock area of Chamarajanagar Taluk, Karnataka, state India.
Nanobiomaterials are very effective components for several biomedical and pharmaceutical studies. Among the metallic, organic, ceramic and polymeric nanomaterials, metallic nanomaterials have shown certain prominent biomedical applications. Enormous works have been done to synthesize, analyse and administer the metallic nanoparticles for various kinds of medical and therapeutic applications, during the last forty years. In these analyses, the prominent biomedical applications of ten metallic nanobiomaterials have been reviewed from various sources and works. It has been found that almost nine of them are used in a very wide spectrum of medical and theranostic applications.
A variety of Nano-biomaterials are synthesised, characterised and tested to find out their potentialities by global scientific communities, during the last three decades. Among those, nanostructured ceramics, cements and coatings are being considered for major use in orthopaedic, dental and other medical applications. The development of novel biocompatible ceramic materials with improved biomedical functions is at the forefront of health-related applications, all over the world. Understanding of the potential biomedical applications of ceramic nanomaterials will provide a major insight into the future developments. This study reviews and enlists the prominent potential biomedical applications of ceramic nanomaterials, like Calcium Phosphate (CaP), Tri-Calcium Phosphate (TCP), Hydroxy-Apatite(HAP), TCP+HAP, Si substituted HAP, Calcium Sulphate and Carbonate, Bioactive Glasses, Bioactive Glass Ceramics, Titania-Based Ceramics, Zirconia Ceramics, Alumina Ceramcis and Ceramic Polymer Composites.
The present forest and tree cover of the country is 78.37 million ha in 2007 which is 23.84% of the geographical areas and it includes 2.82% tree cover. This becomes 25.25%, if the areas above tree line i.e., 4000m are excluded from the total geographical area. The forest cover is classified into 3 canopy density classes.
1. Very Dense Forest (VDF) with canopy density more than 70%
2. Moderately Dense Forest (MDF) with Canopy density between 40-70% and
3. Open Forest (OF) with Canopy density between 10-40%
What is greenhouse gasses and how many gasses are there to affect the Earth.moosaasad1975
What are greenhouse gasses how they affect the earth and its environment what is the future of the environment and earth how the weather and the climate effects.
A brief information about the SCOP protein database used in bioinformatics.
The Structural Classification of Proteins (SCOP) database is a comprehensive and authoritative resource for the structural and evolutionary relationships of proteins. It provides a detailed and curated classification of protein structures, grouping them into families, superfamilies, and folds based on their structural and sequence similarities.
Observation of Io’s Resurfacing via Plume Deposition Using Ground-based Adapt...Sérgio Sacani
Since volcanic activity was first discovered on Io from Voyager images in 1979, changes
on Io’s surface have been monitored from both spacecraft and ground-based telescopes.
Here, we present the highest spatial resolution images of Io ever obtained from a groundbased telescope. These images, acquired by the SHARK-VIS instrument on the Large
Binocular Telescope, show evidence of a major resurfacing event on Io’s trailing hemisphere. When compared to the most recent spacecraft images, the SHARK-VIS images
show that a plume deposit from a powerful eruption at Pillan Patera has covered part
of the long-lived Pele plume deposit. Although this type of resurfacing event may be common on Io, few have been detected due to the rarity of spacecraft visits and the previously low spatial resolution available from Earth-based telescopes. The SHARK-VIS instrument ushers in a new era of high resolution imaging of Io’s surface using adaptive
optics at visible wavelengths.
This pdf is about the Schizophrenia.
For more details visit on YouTube; @SELF-EXPLANATORY;
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCAiarMZDNhe1A3Rnpr_WkzA/videos
Thanks...!
Richard's aventures in two entangled wonderlandsRichard Gill
Since the loophole-free Bell experiments of 2020 and the Nobel prizes in physics of 2022, critics of Bell's work have retreated to the fortress of super-determinism. Now, super-determinism is a derogatory word - it just means "determinism". Palmer, Hance and Hossenfelder argue that quantum mechanics and determinism are not incompatible, using a sophisticated mathematical construction based on a subtle thinning of allowed states and measurements in quantum mechanics, such that what is left appears to make Bell's argument fail, without altering the empirical predictions of quantum mechanics. I think however that it is a smoke screen, and the slogan "lost in math" comes to my mind. I will discuss some other recent disproofs of Bell's theorem using the language of causality based on causal graphs. Causal thinking is also central to law and justice. I will mention surprising connections to my work on serial killer nurse cases, in particular the Dutch case of Lucia de Berk and the current UK case of Lucy Letby.
(May 29th, 2024) Advancements in Intravital Microscopy- Insights for Preclini...Scintica Instrumentation
Intravital microscopy (IVM) is a powerful tool utilized to study cellular behavior over time and space in vivo. Much of our understanding of cell biology has been accomplished using various in vitro and ex vivo methods; however, these studies do not necessarily reflect the natural dynamics of biological processes. Unlike traditional cell culture or fixed tissue imaging, IVM allows for the ultra-fast high-resolution imaging of cellular processes over time and space and were studied in its natural environment. Real-time visualization of biological processes in the context of an intact organism helps maintain physiological relevance and provide insights into the progression of disease, response to treatments or developmental processes.
In this webinar we give an overview of advanced applications of the IVM system in preclinical research. IVIM technology is a provider of all-in-one intravital microscopy systems and solutions optimized for in vivo imaging of live animal models at sub-micron resolution. The system’s unique features and user-friendly software enables researchers to probe fast dynamic biological processes such as immune cell tracking, cell-cell interaction as well as vascularization and tumor metastasis with exceptional detail. This webinar will also give an overview of IVM being utilized in drug development, offering a view into the intricate interaction between drugs/nanoparticles and tissues in vivo and allows for the evaluation of therapeutic intervention in a variety of tissues and organs. This interdisciplinary collaboration continues to drive the advancements of novel therapeutic strategies.
Nutraceutical market, scope and growth: Herbal drug technologyLokesh Patil
As consumer awareness of health and wellness rises, the nutraceutical market—which includes goods like functional meals, drinks, and dietary supplements that provide health advantages beyond basic nutrition—is growing significantly. As healthcare expenses rise, the population ages, and people want natural and preventative health solutions more and more, this industry is increasing quickly. Further driving market expansion are product formulation innovations and the use of cutting-edge technology for customized nutrition. With its worldwide reach, the nutraceutical industry is expected to keep growing and provide significant chances for research and investment in a number of categories, including vitamins, minerals, probiotics, and herbal supplements.
Comparing Evolved Extractive Text Summary Scores of Bidirectional Encoder Rep...University of Maribor
Slides from:
11th International Conference on Electrical, Electronics and Computer Engineering (IcETRAN), Niš, 3-6 June 2024
Track: Artificial Intelligence
https://www.etran.rs/2024/en/home-english/
Comparing Evolved Extractive Text Summary Scores of Bidirectional Encoder Rep...
The Ocean Waves
1. MHRD
NME-ICT
Course Title: Earth Science
The Ocean WavesThe Ocean Waves
By
Prof.A. Balasubramanian
Centre for Advanced Studies in Earth Science
University of Mysore, India
3. After attending this lesson, the user would be able to
highlight the origin and types of ocean waves, their
properties and their significances.
The process that are responsible for the wave
formation are also explained. The unique waves like
tsunamis are also highlighted.
Objectives
4. Oceanography is an interesting subject. Coastal areas
are very unique zones for human and marine life.
Beaches are always considered as good tourist spots.
Ocean water surface is never calm and smooth.
They are uneven, irregular, rough and restless. Tides,
Waves and currents are the three major features
characterizing the oceanic water masses at the surface
and around the coastal zones.
Introduction
(…Contd)
5. Waves are disturbances of the water surface. Waves
are never ending dynamic features created by the
action of wind on the ocean water surfaces.
Waves are undulations of the surface layers of sea
water. The study of waves in an essential aspect in
the subject of oceanography, marine biology, marine
geology, fisheries, and marine engineering.
Introduction
6. Sea waves are defined as undulations of seawater
characterized by unique properties.
The Waves are moving energy patterns.
They travel along the interface between ocean and
the atmosphere.
Ocean waves
(…Contd)
7. In this lesson, the following aspects of ocean waves are
highlighted:
Properties of sea-waves
Types of ocean waves
Processes that are responsible for wave formation
Breaking of waves and
The Seismic sea waves.
Ocean waves
8. The movements of sea water are reflected in the form of
Waves, that are caused by the action of wind
Tides, that are caused by the attraction of moon and
the sun
Oceanic currents that are formed due to wind and
radiation
Movement of sea water
(…Contd)
9. Slow and circular movements of water from the high
latitudes towards the equator and vice-versa and
Compensatory movements between two ocean
basins differing from each other, in their density and
salinity of water masses.
Among these, the waves are caused by the action of
wind.
Movement of sea water
(…Contd)
10. Waves are never ending oscillations seen on the
surface of all oceans.
The pattern of waves generated by the oceanic
masses will never be repeated in the same pattern.
Hence, the study of waves is a very interesting aspect
in oceanography.
Movement of sea water
11. When we observe the ocean surface, we can see
waves of varying sizes and dimensions will be moving in
different directions, resulting in a complex wave
pattern that is constantly changing.
An idealized progressive wave will have a series of
crests and troughs.
Crests are the upper parts of the undulations and the
troughs are the lower parts of the undulations. These
are the two major properties of waves.
Properties of Ideal Waves
12. The vertical height between a crest and its adjacent
trough is known as its wave height(H).
The horizontal distance between two adjacent crests
or troughs is known as the wavelength(L).
The ratio between the wave height and wavelength is
known as wave steepness.
Wave height and periods
(…Contd)
13. The time that elapses during the passing of one
wavelength, crossing a point, is known as the wave
period(T).
Wave speed is equal to wavelength divided by wave
period.
The number of wavelengths that pass a fixed point
per unit of time is known as the frequency of waves.
Wave height and periods
(…Contd)
14. The circular orbits followed by the water particles at
the surface have a diameter equal to the wave height.
The diameters of particle orbits decrease with
increased depth until particle motion associated with
the wave ceases at a depth of one-half
wavelength(L/2).
Wave height and periods
15. Waves are classified into longitudinal, transverse and
orbital categories based on their properties.
In the case of longitudinal waves, the particles will be
moving back and forth in a direction parallel to the
propagation of energy.
These waves transmit energy through all states of
matter.
Classification of waves
(…Contd)
16. In transverse waves, the propagation of energy is at
right angles to the direction of particle vibration.
These waves transmit energy only through solids.
The average height of the wavelength is known as
the still water level.
Classification of waves
17. Most of the waves present on the ocean’s surface are
wind-generated waves. Size and type of wind-generated
waves are controlled by:
1. wind velocity
2. wind duration
3. Fetch and
4. original state of the sea surface.
As wind velocity increases wavelength, period and height
increase, but only if wind duration and fetch are sufficient.
Generated by wind
18. The third type of waves are called as Orbital waves.
Waves produced on the surface of the ocean, have
particle movements that are neither longitudinal nor
transverse.
Since, the particles move in circular orbits at the air-
sea interface, such waves are called as orbital waves.
Orbital waves
(…Contd)
19. The movement of particles along such an interface
involves components of both since the particles move
in circular orbits at the interface between the
atmosphere and ocean.
They are called as orbital waves or interface waves.
Orbital waves
20. Wave steepness is a ratio of wave height divided by
wavelength (H/L). In shallow water, wave height increases
and wave length decreases.
When H/L is larger than or equals 1/7 (H/L ≥ 1/7), the
wave becomes unstable and breaks. These are called as
breakers.
There are three types of wave breakers observed in the
coastal zones. They are spilling breakers, plunging
breakers, and surging breakers.
Wave steepness
21. Motion of water particles(WP) is the underlying
principle behind these oceanic waves.
Water Particles in a sea wave follow the circular
orbits at the sea surface.
The diameter of such circular orbit is equal to the
wavelength.
At the crest, the water particles move in the
direction of the energy propagation.
Motion of water particles
(…Contd)
22. The size of the circular orbits flowed by the particles
get diminishing with increasing depth below the sea
surface.
The water particles in the trough of a wave will move
in the opposite direction of the wave.
Half of the orbit of the water particles in the trough,
is at a lower velocity than the other half of the orbit
in which the particles will follow the crest of the
wave.
Motion of water particles
23. The characteristics of waves differ with reference to
deep and shallow waters. Let us see the differences
between deep water waves and shallow water
waves.
There are three types of waves defined by water
depth
1. Deep-water wave (d>or=1/2 of L)
2. Intermediate-water wave (d>1/20 and <1/2 of L)
3. Shallow-water wave (d<or= 1/20 of L).
Deep water waves
(…Contd)
24. In deep-waters, the water depth (D) is greater than
half of the wavelength (L). ie. D>( L/2).
So, Deep-water waves travel across the ocean, in
which the depth of water (d) is greater than one-half
the wavelength(L/2).
All wind generated oceanic waves moving across the
oceans are all deep ocean waves
Deep water waves
25. Waves in which the water depth D is less than one-
twentieth of the wavelength, i.e., D< L/20, are
classified as shallow-water waves. These are also
called as long waves.
As waves enter the shallow water zone, they
become taller and slow down, and eventually be
breaking on the sea-shore.
Shallow-water waves
26. Tidal waves are generated by the gravitational
attraction of sun and moon.
The shallower the water, the greater the interaction
between the wave and the bottom alters the wave
properties. In these, the Wave speed decreases as
the depth decreases.
Tidal waves
(…Contd)
27. The Wavelength decreases as the depth decreases.
The Wave height increases as the depth decreases.
The wave troughs become flattened and the wave
profile becomes extremely asymmetrical.
The wave period remains unchanged.
Tidal waves
28. Fetch is the area of contact between the wind and the
water and is where wind-generated waves begin.
The Sea is the term applied to the sea state of the
fetch when there is a chaotic jumble of new waves.
Waves continue to grow until the sea is fully
developed or becomes limited by fetch restriction or
wind duration.
Fetch and sea
(…Contd)
29. Wave interference is the momentary interaction
between waves as they pass through each other.
Wave interference can be constructive or
destructive.
Wave refraction is the bending of a wave crest into
an area where it travels more slowly
Fetch and sea
30. Dispersion is the gradual separation of wave types
based on their relative wavelengths and speeds.
The long waves travel faster than the short waves.
This causes dispersion outside of the fetch and
regular ocean swell.
Dispersion
(…Contd)
31. Three different types of wind waves normally develop
in seas and oceans.
They are
Capillary waves, or ripples
Seas and
Swells.
Dispersion
32. As the wind blows over the surface of the oceanic water,
energy is transferred from wind to the water mass.
The ocean surface gets deformed into small rounded
waves with v-shaped troughs.
The wave length of such initial waves is less than 1.74
cm.
These are called as Capillary Waves. Such waves are
easily destroyed by the surface tension.
Capillary waves
33. When the surface of oceanic water mass gets more
and more energy from the wind blowing over it,
waves increase in height and length.
When the wavelength exceeds 1.74 cm, their shape
resembles a sine curve. Such waves are called as
Gravity Waves.
These waves are characterized by pointed crests and
rounded troughs.
Gravity waves
34. A swell is the formation of long wavelength waves on
the surface of the seas. These are composed of series of
surface gravity waves.
These are not generated by the local wind. Swell waves
often have a long wavelength but this varies with the
size of the water body.
Their wavelengths may rarely exceed more than 150 m.
Swell
(…Contd)
35. Swell wavelength, also, varies from event to event.
Occasionally, swells which are longer than 700m
occur as a result of the most severe storms.
There are three factors that influence the level of
energy contained in swells.
Swell
(…Contd)
36. Wind velocity, wind area (fetch), and duration.
That is, the speed of the wind, the amount of ocean
surface area affected by wind blowing in the same
direction (also known as fetch), and the amount of
time those winds blow over the same part of the
ocean.
Swell
37. Seas are larger waves that are formed under
irregular and un-sustained winds. These can last long
after the winds have died out.
As seas propagate away from their area of origin,
they naturally separate according to their direction
and wavelength.
They are irregular waves running in different
directions.
Seas
(…Contd)
38. The factors responsible for this are:
Wind Speed
The time during which the wind blows in one
direction and
The fetch, the distance over which the wind blows
in one direction.
Seas
(…Contd)
39. The amount of energy gained by a wave is reflected
on its wave height.
The usual height in a sea wave hardly exceeds 2m, in
the normal condition.
Waves commonly break when one angle at the crest
is less than 1200
(or the ration of wave height to
wavelength is 1/7.
Seas
40. Ripples appear on smooth water surface when the
wind is light, but if the wind dies, so do the ripples.
Seas are created when the wind has blown for a
while at a given velocity.
They tend to last much longer, even after the wind
has died.
Ripples
(…Contd)
41. Ripples are also known as capillary waves.
Ripples appear on smooth water when the wind
blows, but will die quickly if the wind stops.
The restoring force that allows them to propagate is
surface tension.
Ripples
42. Transitional waves are another type of waves that
are having wavelength greater than the depth of
water, but less than 20 times the water depth are
categorized as transitional waves.
In these types, the velocity depends partly on the
wavelength and partly on the depth of water.
Transitional waves
(…Contd)
43. The wind speed versus water depth diagram can
show these three wave distributions clearly.
When water depth increases and wave speed
increases proportionately, we get deep water waves.
Even if the wave speed increases, in shallow waters,
we will get shallow water waves. In between these
two, we get the transition waves.
Transitional waves
44. The interrelationship between the wind and the
waves is so important to skippers.
A classification system was designed as a guideline
by incorporating both wind speed and the wave
conditions for skippers.
Wind and Waves
(…Contd)
45. This system is called as the Beaufort Scale.
It was developed in 1805, by Admiral Sir Francis
Beaufort of the British Navy.
It is a guideline for weather classification system, in
oceans.
Wind and Waves
46. Waves normally dominate the beach processes.
Currents and turbulence generated by waves stir up
all the sediments and long-shore currents caused by
the waves and tides, transport the sediments parallel
to the coast.
Waves on beaches
(…Contd)
47. Large amounts of sands are transported in
suspension.
Due to these, the beach morphology and
topographic configuration changes periodically.
Waves rarely approach a beach at right angles.
Waves on beaches
48. Ocean waves are undulations of the sea surface with
unique properties.
The surface appears to be composed of random waves
of various lengths and periods.
Ocean waves are mostly produced by the wind.
The faster the wind, the longer the wind blows and
the bigger the area over which the wind blows, the
bigger the waves generated.
Processes causing wave formation
(…Contd)
49. Wave phenomena involve the transmission of energy
and momentum by means of vibrating impulses through
the states of matter.
The particles which constitute the medium simply move
in a forward, backward and circular pattern, transmitting
the energy from one to another.
Processes causing wave formation
(…Contd)
50. These waves may range from tiny ripples, caused on
the surface of the lake, to gigantic roller coasters.
The most prominent factors involved in the
formation of waves on a water body include wind
speed, depth of the water, fetch (i.e. the distance
covered by the wind), etc.
Processes causing wave formation
51. Generation of sea waves are caused by the following
factors:
Atmospheric circulation and wind
Movement of fluids of two contrasting density (air
and water) along the interface of two fluids of differing
densities
Movement of turbidity currents
Earth induced tectonic forces.
Causative factors
(…Contd)
52. Underwater volcanic eruptions
Gravitational forces of the sun and the moon
Atmospheric storms and
Nuclear tests, missile tests, etc.
Causative factors
53. Wave Formation is a unique and is also a complicated
process. The three main factors that cause the origin
of waves in the ocean are:
The speed of the wind
The distance of the water over which the wind has
blown
The duration of time the wind has blown over the
surface of the water.
Wave formation
(…Contd)
54. The greater each of the above factors is, the larger
will be the waves.
Waves come in various shapes and sizes.
The size of the wave depends on the velocity of the
wind.
The faster the wind is blowing, the bigger will be the
waves.
Wave formation
55. Wave formation involves two basic types of forces
1. Those that initially disturb the water and
2. Those that act to restore the equilibrium (or)
promote still water condition.
Forces
(…Contd)
56. Wind is the cause for most of the oceanic waves.
Winds are highly variable.
The third disturbing force is the attraction of the
Sun and Moon, on ocean water.
These cause the longest waves of all, called the
tides.
Forces
57. Waves in shallow waters near the beaches are found
to be diving and breaking. They are called as wave
breakers.
An impressive amount of energy is dissipated by
breaking waves in the swift.
A single wave 1.2 m high with a 10 second period,
striking the coast is estimated to release 50 million
horse power of energy.
Breaking of waves
(…Contd)
58. Most of this energy is released as heat which is not
detectable.
Waves are destroyed by opposing winds. Others
interact and some cancel each other, but most of
them end up as breakers.
As waves encounter shallow water, the wave heights
increase and wavelength decreases.
Breaking of waves
(…Contd)
59. Consequently wave steepness (H/L) increases.
The wave becomes unstable and forms the
breakers.
The belt of nearly continuous breaking waves along
the shore over a submerged bank is known as surf.
Breaking of waves
60. Surf is a mix of breakers. It forms, when different
types of waves approach a shore and interact with
the shallow water bottom. There are four basic
types of breaking water waves as:
Spilling breakers
Plunging breakers
Surging breakers and
Collapsing breakers.
Surf zone
61. When the ocean floor has a gradual slope, the wave will
steepen until the crest becomes unstable, resulting in
turbulent whitewater spilling down the face of the
wave.
This continues as the wave approaches the shore, and
the wave's energy is slowly dissipated in the
whitewater.
Because of this, spilling waves break for a longer time
than other waves, and create a relatively gentle wave.
Spilling breakers
(…Contd)
62. Onshore wind conditions make spillers more likely.
They cause rows of breakers, rolling towards the
beach.
Such breakers gradually transport water towards the
beach during groups of high waves.
These are also called as rolling breakers.
Spilling breakers
(…Contd)
63. The Spilling or rolling breakers are the safest
waves on which to surf.
They can be found in most areas with relatively flat
shorelines.
They are the most common type of shore breaks.
Spilling breakers
64. A plunging wave occurs when the ocean floor is steep
or has sudden depth changes, such as from a reef or
sandbar.
The crest of the wave becomes much steeper than a
spilling wave, becomes vertical, then curls over and
drops onto the trough of the wave, releasing most of
its energy at once in a relatively violent impact.
Plunging breakers
(…Contd)
65. A plunging wave breaks with more energy than a
significantly larger spilling wave.
If a plunging wave is not parallel to the beach (or
the ocean floor), the section of the wave which
reaches shallow water will break first.
Plunging breakers
(…Contd)
66. Plunging, or dumping breakers are the preferred
waves for experienced surfers.
A plunging breaker is dangerous for swimmers
because its intensity is greatly augmented by
backwash from its predecessor.
Plunging breakers
67. Surging breakers occur where the beach slope
exceeds wave steepness.
The wave does not really curl and break but runs up
against the shore while producing foam and large
surges of water.
Such places are dangerous for swimmers because the
rapidly moving water can drag swimmers over the
rocks.
Surging breakers
(…Contd)
68. When waves break, their energy is absorbed and
converted to heat.
On steeper beaches, the energy of the wave can be
reflected by the bottom back into the ocean, causing
standing waves.
This can result in a very narrow surf zone.
Surging breakers
69. Collapsing waves are a cross between plunging and
surging breakers.
In these, the crest never fully breaks, yet the bottom
face of the wave gets steeper and collapses, resulting
in foam.
Collapsing breakers
70. Rogue waves are another categories of waves.
They are also known as freak waves, monster waves,
killer waves, extreme waves, and abnormal waves.
They are relatively large and spontaneous ocean
surface waves that occur far out in the sea.
Rogue waves
(…Contd)
71. They are a threat even to large ships and ocean
liners.
Rogue waves seem to occur in deep water or
where a number of physical factors such as strong
winds and fast currents converge.
Rogue waves
72. Storm surge is the rise in sea level resulting from low
atmospheric pressure and the accumulation of water
driven shoreward by storm winds.
Water is deeper at the shore area, allowing waves to
progress farther inland.
Storm surge is especially severe when superimposed
upon a spring high tide.
Storm surge
(…Contd)
73. A storm surge can cause flooding of low-lying coastal
areas.
Following a strom, the sea level continues to rise and
fall.
Storm surges can be predicted, based on wind
speeds and direction, fetch, water depth and shape
of the shoreline.
Storm surge
74. Standing waves or seiches (pronounced as saysh)
consist of a water surface which will be like a
“seesawing” back and forth.
A seiche is a standing wave in an enclosed or
partially enclosed body of water.
Seiches are often imperceptible to the naked eye.
Seiches
(…Contd)
75. Any observer, in boats on the sea surface, may not
notice that a seiche is occurring.
This happens due to its extremely long wavelengths.
Seiches are normally observed in seas such as the
Adriatic Sea and the Baltic Sea.
Seiches may also be induced by a tsunami and a wave
train (series of waves).
Seiches
76. Internal waves form within the water column along
the pycnocline.
Because of the small density difference between the
water masses above and below the pycnocline,
wave properties are different when compared to
the surface waves.
Other Types of Progressive Waves
(…Contd)
77. Internal waves display all the properties of surface
progressive waves including reflection, refraction,
interference, breaking, etc.
Any disturbance to the pycnocline can generate
internal waves, including: flow of water related to
the tides, flow of water masses past each other,
storms, or submarine landslides.
Other Types of Progressive Waves
78. In deep water, as waves move away from the fetch
that generated them, they form a continuous chain
of swells known as a wave train.
Wave trains radiate outward in all direction from
the fetch, with the largest waves moving in the
same direction as the winds within in the fetch.
Wave trains
(…Contd)
79. Over distance and time, waves that are moving at
nearly the same speed keep pace with one another
and form a group.
They can be anywhere from 3-15 or more waves in a
group. An interesting thing occurs as the group
travels.
A group normally consists of smaller waves in the
lead, larger waves in the middle, and smaller waves
again at the rear of the pack.
Wave trains
80. A tsunami is a seismic sea wave.
Tsunamis are series of huge waves that can cause
major devastation and loss of life when they hit the
coast.
The word tsunami is a Japanese word which means
'harbor waves' (tsu - harbor, nami - waves).
Tsunamis- the seismic sea waves
(…Contd)
81. The possible causes of a tsunami are an underwater
earthquake with the Richter scale magnitude of
over 6.75, sub marine rock slides, volcanic
eruptions or if an asteroid or a meteoroid crashes
into the water from the space.
Tsunamis- the seismic sea waves
(…Contd)
82. A tsunami starts when a large volume of water is
shifted by any of these underwater mechanism
happen.
When such a large volume of water is moved, the
resulting wave is very large and can be spread over
an area of a thousands of sq.km.
Tsunamis- the seismic sea waves
(…Contd)
83. Tsunamis can travel from the point of origin to the
coast at great speed.
The speed may be as high as 1000kmph in the open
ocean.
This is the speed with which a jet aircraft travels.
Tsunamis- the seismic sea waves
(…Contd)
84. A tsunami can move from one end of the ocean to
the other end in a few hours.
With the advance in technologies over the years,
tsunamis can now be detected before they hit the
coast thereby reducing loss of life.
Tsunamis- the seismic sea waves
85. Waves are potential energy sources.
Energy can be extracted from waves by devices
floating in the water and by fixed structures.
Wave power varies considerably in different parts
of the world.
(…Contd)
Energy from waves
86. Areas of the world with abundant wave power
resource include
the western coasts of Scotland,
northern Canada,
southern Africa,
Australia, and the northwestern coast of the United
States, particularly Alaska.
Energy from waves
87. Waves are caused by the wind blowing over the
surface of the ocean. In many areas of the world,
the wind blows with enough consistency and force.
The generate continuous waves along the
shorelines. Waves are powerful geological agents.
They can erode, transport and deposit sediments
along the coastlines
Conclusion
(…Contd)
88. Waves carry out both constructive and destructive
actions. The geomorphology of a coastal region is
controlled by the action of waves in that region.
Study of ocean waves is a basic necessity to
understand their processes.
Conclusion