1. A surface wave is an oscillating disturbance that moves across the sea surface without transferring mass.
2. Key wave parameters include crest, trough, wavelength, wave height, amplitude, wave period, and frequency.
3. Wave energy is directly proportional to the square of the wave height and depends on water density and gravity. Significant wave height refers to the average height of the largest third of waves.
Waves are never ending dynamic surfaces created by the action of wind on ocean surfaces. Waves are undulations of the surface layers of bodies of sea waters. Large bodies of water are almost constantly in motion. Ocean surface are never calm and smooth.They are uneven, irregular, rough and restless. Sea waves are defined as undulations of seawater characterized by unique features. Waves are moving energy patterns. They travel along the interface between ocean and the atmosphere.
Seas and Oceans are dynamic ecosystems. Oceans are very vast bodies of water. Wind blowing on the surface of the ocean has the greatest effect on the movement of surface water. Vertical or horizontal movement of both surface and deep water masses happen in the world’s oceans. They are called as Ocean currents. Currents normally move in certain specific directions. Hence, they aid in the circulation of the moisture on Earth. Because ocean currents circulate water worldwide, they have a significant impact on the movement of energy and moisture between the oceans and the atmosphere. As a result, they are important to the world’s weather.
Waves are never ending dynamic surfaces created by the action of wind on ocean surfaces. Waves are undulations of the surface layers of bodies of sea waters. Large bodies of water are almost constantly in motion. Ocean surface are never calm and smooth.They are uneven, irregular, rough and restless. Sea waves are defined as undulations of seawater characterized by unique features. Waves are moving energy patterns. They travel along the interface between ocean and the atmosphere.
Seas and Oceans are dynamic ecosystems. Oceans are very vast bodies of water. Wind blowing on the surface of the ocean has the greatest effect on the movement of surface water. Vertical or horizontal movement of both surface and deep water masses happen in the world’s oceans. They are called as Ocean currents. Currents normally move in certain specific directions. Hence, they aid in the circulation of the moisture on Earth. Because ocean currents circulate water worldwide, they have a significant impact on the movement of energy and moisture between the oceans and the atmosphere. As a result, they are important to the world’s weather.
Erosion is when wind, water, and ice take sediments away.
Erosion on coasts by wind and water.
Water is major agent of erosion.
About 21% of all erosion in done by coastal erosion.
Oceanography is the science that studies the oceans along with marine organisms and ecosystem dynamics, ocean currents and waves, plate tectonics and the geology of the sea floor, and the chemical substances and physical properties of the world oceans.
This ppt will help to understand the concept of water mass in the world ocean. It gives an overview of it's origin, formation, distribution etc. in the world. It is also helpfull for Fisheries Science students.
Oceans also contain a huge amount of mineral resources. Deep ocean basins are the zones of continuous sedimentation. The oceans are the final destination for many of all the sediments to be deposited. About 200 million years of earth history are available in the fossiliferous sediments deposited within the ocean basins. This module explains the characteristics of marine sediments.
Erosion is when wind, water, and ice take sediments away.
Erosion on coasts by wind and water.
Water is major agent of erosion.
About 21% of all erosion in done by coastal erosion.
Oceanography is the science that studies the oceans along with marine organisms and ecosystem dynamics, ocean currents and waves, plate tectonics and the geology of the sea floor, and the chemical substances and physical properties of the world oceans.
This ppt will help to understand the concept of water mass in the world ocean. It gives an overview of it's origin, formation, distribution etc. in the world. It is also helpfull for Fisheries Science students.
Oceans also contain a huge amount of mineral resources. Deep ocean basins are the zones of continuous sedimentation. The oceans are the final destination for many of all the sediments to be deposited. About 200 million years of earth history are available in the fossiliferous sediments deposited within the ocean basins. This module explains the characteristics of marine sediments.
Waves _______________________ (Name) How do ocea.docxmelbruce90096
Waves
_______________________
(Name)
How do ocean waves form?
“All waves are disturbances of a fluid medium through which energy is moved” (Davis,
1997). Ocean waves travel on the interface between oceans and the atmosphere, and are
produced most commonly by winds. As shown in Figure 1, the crest of a wave is its highest
point while the trough is the lowest. The height of the wave is the vertical distance between the
crest and the trough. The wavelength (λ) is the horizontal distance from crest to crest or from
trough to trough. The steepness is the ratio of its height to λ. When the steepness value reaches
0.143 (i.e., a ratio of 1:7), the crest of the wave breaks. Note that a steepness value less than
0.143 means a stable wave while one larger than 0.143 means an unstable breaking wave.
Figure 1. Key characteristics used to describe ocean waves.
Using Figure 1, please answer all of the following questions.
(1) What is the height of the illustrated wave?
(2) What is the wavelength?
(3) What is the steepness?
(4) Will the wave break given your answer to question (3)? Please briefly explain
your answer.
Using Figure 2, use two different colored pencils and sketch two waves:
Wave “A” has a height of 2 m and a wavelength of 10 m.
Wave “B” has a height of 4m and a wavelength of 6m.
For each wave, label the wavelength, wave height, crest, and trough.
Figure 2. A grid for drawing a wave.
(5) What is the steepness of wave A that you sketched?
(6) Will wave A break?
(7) What is the steepness of wave B that you sketched?
(8) Will wave B break?
When the interface between the oceans and the atmosphere is disturbed by a force, then
waves form. Most commonly that disturbing force is the friction of the wind moving across the
water. Once the wave has formed gravity acts against this disturbance, and attempts to restore the
water/atmosphere interface back to its flat-water position (i.e., a horizontal state). Hence, wind-
generated waves are sometimes referred to as gravity waves. As gravity pulls the crest of a wave
downward, momentum carries the water/atmosphere interface beyond the flat-water position to
form a trough. As a result, a buoy will appear to move up and down without being translated in
the direction that the waves appear to be moving. Such up and down motion will continue as
along as the wind is blowing. When the wind stops blowing, the water/atmosphere interface
returns to its normal flat-water state.
The period of a wave is the time it takes for one wavelength to pass a reference mark.
The periods for normal ocean waves range from a few seconds to about 15 seconds. Note that
this differs from wave celerity which is the speed at which a wave advances or propagates. Deep
water waves are waves that occur in water depth that is greater than one half their wavelength.
(9) If it takes 10 seconds for 1 wavelength.
Wind, Tides, Water waves, Wind rose and wave rose diagrams, wave diffraction, breaking, reflection, Littoral drift, sediment transport, Effects on Harbor and structure design.
The Roman Empire A Historical Colossus.pdfkaushalkr1407
The Roman Empire, a vast and enduring power, stands as one of history's most remarkable civilizations, leaving an indelible imprint on the world. It emerged from the Roman Republic, transitioning into an imperial powerhouse under the leadership of Augustus Caesar in 27 BCE. This transformation marked the beginning of an era defined by unprecedented territorial expansion, architectural marvels, and profound cultural influence.
The empire's roots lie in the city of Rome, founded, according to legend, by Romulus in 753 BCE. Over centuries, Rome evolved from a small settlement to a formidable republic, characterized by a complex political system with elected officials and checks on power. However, internal strife, class conflicts, and military ambitions paved the way for the end of the Republic. Julius Caesar’s dictatorship and subsequent assassination in 44 BCE created a power vacuum, leading to a civil war. Octavian, later Augustus, emerged victorious, heralding the Roman Empire’s birth.
Under Augustus, the empire experienced the Pax Romana, a 200-year period of relative peace and stability. Augustus reformed the military, established efficient administrative systems, and initiated grand construction projects. The empire's borders expanded, encompassing territories from Britain to Egypt and from Spain to the Euphrates. Roman legions, renowned for their discipline and engineering prowess, secured and maintained these vast territories, building roads, fortifications, and cities that facilitated control and integration.
The Roman Empire’s society was hierarchical, with a rigid class system. At the top were the patricians, wealthy elites who held significant political power. Below them were the plebeians, free citizens with limited political influence, and the vast numbers of slaves who formed the backbone of the economy. The family unit was central, governed by the paterfamilias, the male head who held absolute authority.
Culturally, the Romans were eclectic, absorbing and adapting elements from the civilizations they encountered, particularly the Greeks. Roman art, literature, and philosophy reflected this synthesis, creating a rich cultural tapestry. Latin, the Roman language, became the lingua franca of the Western world, influencing numerous modern languages.
Roman architecture and engineering achievements were monumental. They perfected the arch, vault, and dome, constructing enduring structures like the Colosseum, Pantheon, and aqueducts. These engineering marvels not only showcased Roman ingenuity but also served practical purposes, from public entertainment to water supply.
Synthetic Fiber Construction in lab .pptxPavel ( NSTU)
Synthetic fiber production is a fascinating and complex field that blends chemistry, engineering, and environmental science. By understanding these aspects, students can gain a comprehensive view of synthetic fiber production, its impact on society and the environment, and the potential for future innovations. Synthetic fibers play a crucial role in modern society, impacting various aspects of daily life, industry, and the environment. ynthetic fibers are integral to modern life, offering a range of benefits from cost-effectiveness and versatility to innovative applications and performance characteristics. While they pose environmental challenges, ongoing research and development aim to create more sustainable and eco-friendly alternatives. Understanding the importance of synthetic fibers helps in appreciating their role in the economy, industry, and daily life, while also emphasizing the need for sustainable practices and innovation.
This is a presentation by Dada Robert in a Your Skill Boost masterclass organised by the Excellence Foundation for South Sudan (EFSS) on Saturday, the 25th and Sunday, the 26th of May 2024.
He discussed the concept of quality improvement, emphasizing its applicability to various aspects of life, including personal, project, and program improvements. He defined quality as doing the right thing at the right time in the right way to achieve the best possible results and discussed the concept of the "gap" between what we know and what we do, and how this gap represents the areas we need to improve. He explained the scientific approach to quality improvement, which involves systematic performance analysis, testing and learning, and implementing change ideas. He also highlighted the importance of client focus and a team approach to quality improvement.
Palestine last event orientationfvgnh .pptxRaedMohamed3
An EFL lesson about the current events in Palestine. It is intended to be for intermediate students who wish to increase their listening skills through a short lesson in power point.
Instructions for Submissions thorugh G- Classroom.pptxJheel Barad
This presentation provides a briefing on how to upload submissions and documents in Google Classroom. It was prepared as part of an orientation for new Sainik School in-service teacher trainees. As a training officer, my goal is to ensure that you are comfortable and proficient with this essential tool for managing assignments and fostering student engagement.
The Indian economy is classified into different sectors to simplify the analysis and understanding of economic activities. For Class 10, it's essential to grasp the sectors of the Indian economy, understand their characteristics, and recognize their importance. This guide will provide detailed notes on the Sectors of the Indian Economy Class 10, using specific long-tail keywords to enhance comprehension.
For more information, visit-www.vavaclasses.com
Unit 8 - Information and Communication Technology (Paper I).pdfThiyagu K
This slides describes the basic concepts of ICT, basics of Email, Emerging Technology and Digital Initiatives in Education. This presentations aligns with the UGC Paper I syllabus.
Model Attribute Check Company Auto PropertyCeline George
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Welcome to TechSoup New Member Orientation and Q&A (May 2024).pdfTechSoup
In this webinar you will learn how your organization can access TechSoup's wide variety of product discount and donation programs. From hardware to software, we'll give you a tour of the tools available to help your nonprofit with productivity, collaboration, financial management, donor tracking, security, and more.
2. • A surface wave is an oscillatory disturbance
that moves across the sea surface.
What is the surface wave?
Porf. Dr. Khaled Alam El-Din
3. When a wave travels, it propagates the wave form
(energy) but there is no real transfer of mass.
Energy traveling along the interface between ocean
and atmosphere
Wave Motion
5. The wave crest is the highest part of the wave above
mean sea-level.
The wave trough is the lowest part under mean sea-
level.
The wavelength, L [m], is the horizontal distance
between two successive crests, or troughs.
The wave height, H (m), is the vertical distance
displacement between a crest and the adjacent trough
The amplitude, a [m], is the maximum displacement
from the mean sea-level.
The wave period, T [s], is the time interval between
the passage of two successive crests at a fixed point.
The frequency, f [Hz], is the number of crests
passing a fixed point per second
The Wave Parameters
7. Wave Energy
• Wave energy is directly proportional to
wave height squared.
• where:
E = wave energy per unit area (J/m2)
= water density (kg/m3)
g = gravity (m/s2)
H = wave height (m)
8. Significant wave height
• Hs is the mean height of the highest one third of the
waves passing a point.
• Mean H = Average wave height
Hs or H1/3 = Significant wave height
H1/10 = Average of the highest one-tenth wave height
Hmax = Maximum probable wave height for a large
sample of waves
Other wave height can
be computed from Hs,
• H1/10 = 1.27 Hs
Hmean = 0.64 Hs
Hmax = 1.87 Hs,
9. The wave steepness is the ratio of wave
height to wavelength (= H/L).
• When H/L is larger than or equals 1/7 (H/L
1/7), or when the angle of wave crest is less
than 120°, the wave becomes unstable.
Wave steepness and stability
10. The relative depth is the ratio of water
depth to wavelength (= h/L).
• When h/L is greater than or equal ≥ (1/2) the
wave denotes Deep-water waves
• When h/L is less than or equal ≤ (1/20) the
wave denotes Shallow-water waves
• When (1/20) < h/L < (1/2) the wave denotes
Transitional waves
Relative Depth
& deep and shallow water waves
11. a- Deep-water waves
Water depth is greater than
wave base ≥ (1/2)L
No interaction with the
bottom
Water particles move in
circle,
Diameter of orbital motion
decreases with depth of
water
Wave speed (celerity)
proportional to wavelength
For deep-water waves,
long waves are fast waves
Wave speed (C) = 1.25 L
Wave speed (C) = 1.56 x T
Wavelength (L) = 1.56 x T 2
12. b-Shallow-water wave
Water depth is < (1/20)L
Orbital motion getting
squished by the Bottom into
ellipses that approximate
Back and forth motion near
bottom.
Wave speed (celerity)
proportional to depth of
water.
Wave speed (C) = g h
For shallow water waves,
the deeper the water, the
faster the wave
13. 1. Deep water wave has a wave height 2 m and wave
period 11 sec, find out the depth at which the motion of
the water particles diminish & the wave energy and
power.
2. Calculate the wave energy and power of shallow water
wave has a height 2.5 m at a water depth 5 m.
3. A surface wave has a wave period 11 sec and wave
height 2.2 m in deep water find out:
a- The wave speed
b- Wave energy
c-Wave power.
d- Wave steepness and discuss the stability.
14. 1. If you know that a surface wave has a height 2.4 m and
wave length 150 m is approaching to a shallow water of
a depth 6m find out:
a- The relative depth and determine the wave type.
b- the wave speed
c- Wave energy.
d- Wave power.
15. Factors that control wave energy
(generation and growth)
1. Wind speed
The faster the wind blows, the more energy they
possess, and the bigger the waves will appear.
2. Wind duration- Length of time that the wind
blows
The longer the duration - length of time that the wind blows- the
bigger the waves.
3. Fetch- Distance over which the wind blows in a
single direction
The same goes for the fetch – the larger the area of
wind/water interaction, the bigger the waves.
16. When the wind blows for - theoretically - unlimited
fetch and duration, the sea reaches the maximum
wave height, wavelength for particular wind speed at
equilibrium conditions “fully developed sea” .
Waves cannot grow further because they are losing
energy through breaking whitecaps.
When the fetch is small and/or the period is short the generated
waves become limited and called limited in fetch and/or duration.
Fully developed sea
17. Sea waves and Swell
Swell
Uniform, symmetrical waves that
travel outward from storm area
Travel faster than the wind outside
the storm, so wave heights decrease
Longer wavelength transport
energy long distances
Sea waves
Random waves inside the storm
area under the wind action
Has different wave heights,
lengths, periods, and directions.
Height increases faster than the
length …. Hence the wave become
unstable and breaks (whitecaps)
18. Current Effect on Waves
Same direction
• Wave speed increases
• Wavelength increases
• Wave height decreases
• Wave steepness
decreases
• Wave becomes More
stable
Opposite direction
• Wave speed decreases
• Wavelength decreases
• Wave height increases
• Wave steepness
increases
• Wave becomes unstable
and break
Wave Current Wave Current
20. Wave Refraction (2)
• Energy focused
on headland
– Headland
eroded
• Energy
dissipated in bay
– Bay filled up
with sediment
21. Wave Diffraction
A. When waves approach barriers with gaps, the wave will be
observed to spread or disperse upon passing through the gap.
B. If waves approach a barrier with multiple gaps, wave diffraction will
occur as the wave passes through each gap, and the spreading
waves may interact both destructively and constructively. Thus,
barriers with many gaps can efficiently scatter wave energy, often
diminishing the height and power of waves.
22. Wave Reflection
& Standing wave
Waves and wave energy bounced back
from barrier
Reflected wave can interfere with next
incoming wave and make a standing wave
23. Wave Breaking
Top of wave topples over base because of
decrease in wave speed due to friction with
seafloor until
The particle speed become faster than the
wave speed or celerity (u > C) ,
The wave steepness (H/L) > 1/7 or
The wave height equal 0.78 of water depth
(H ≥ 0.78h).
Different types of breakers associated with
different slope of seafloor
24. Breaker types
a- Spilling breaker
Water slides down
front slope of wave
Gently sloping
seafloor (1:50)
Wave energy
expended over
longer distance
Best for Recreation
25. b- Plunging breaker
Curling crest
Moderately steep
seafloor (1:20)
Wave energy
expended over
shorter distance
Best for board
surfers
Breaker types
26. c- Surging breaker
Breakers on shore
Steepest seafloor
Energy spread over
shortest distance
Best for body
surfing
Breaker types
27. a- Long-shore Current
Current in surf zone
Flows parallel to the shore
Moves substantially more sediment than
beach drift
28. b- Rip Current
Current in surf
zone
Narrow and
strong current
flows offshore
direction.
Transport
sediment
offshore.
29. • Geometry of the basin controls the period of the standing wave.
A basin can be closed or open.
• Resonance amplifies the oscillation and occurs when the
period of the basin is similar to the period of the force
producing the standing wave.
Seiches
30. For n order seiches in
Seiches
2. open basin
T = 4 * l / (2 n - 1) √ (g * h)
Where T : wave period, l : Length of the basin, g : gravity acc.
h : Average depth and n = Oscillation mode
n = 1 for the main frequency and 2 for the 1st harmonic frequency and so on.
Example:
A longitudinal lake has a length of 220 km and an
average depth of about 10m. Calculate the period of the
main and fist order natural frequency.
Solution:
l = 220 km = 220 000 m, n = 1, g = 9.8 m/s2, h = 10 m
T main = 2 * l / (n √ (g * h)) = 2 * 220,000 / √ 9.8 * 10
= 44446.7 sec = 12.3 hr
T 1st = 2 * 220,000 / 2 * √ 9.8 * 10 = 6.15 hr
1. close basin
T = 2 * l / (n √ (g * h))
31. • Internal waves form on the interface between two layers
of different densities (the surface of density
discontinuity)
• Thus, Internal waves form within the water column on the
pycnocline.
• Any disturbance to the pycnocline can generate internal
waves, including: Flow of water related to the tides., Flow of
water masses past each other, Storms, or Submarine
landslides.
• Internal waves display all the properties of progressive waves
including reflection, refraction, interference, breaking, etc.
• Because of the small density difference between the water
masses above and below the pycnocline, wave properties
are different compared to surface waves.
Internal waves
32. • An internal wave propagating on the interface between two layers.
Water particles are shown as yellow and magenta dots. Yellow dots
sit in the middle of the water column and move only up and down.
Magenta dots sit at the top and bottom of the water column and
move only in the horizontal.
By watching a yellow dot you can see how a water particle in the
middle of the water column moves up and down, but does not move
horizontally, as the wave passes through.
Internal waves
33. • Storm surge is the rise in sea level resulting from
low atmospheric pressure associated with storms
and the accumulation of water driven shoreward
by the winds.
• Storm surge is especially severe when
superimposed upon a high tide.
• Storm surge is become danger in Lower coastal
areas located in a shallow sea
Storm Surge
34. Tsunami
The word tsunami comes from the Japanese word
meaning "harbor wave.“
A tsunami (pronounced sue-nahm-ee) is a series of
huge waves that can cause great devastation and loss of
life when they strike a coast.
Tsunamis were previously called tidal waves, but are
unrelated to tides.
They only become a danger when reaching coastal
areas where wave height can reach 30 m.
36. Tsunami characteristics
• Long wavelengths (> 200 km or 125 miles)
• Shallow-water wave
• Speed proportional to water depth so very fast in open
ocean. Maximum speed = 800 km/hr
• Sea level can rise up to 40 m (131 ft) when tsunami
reaches shore
• Usually creates a surging front of water at the shoreline
instead of breaking wave
– Like a sudden extreme high tide (hence originally called tidal
waves)
– Preceded be a sudden recession of water (the trough)
– The recession and surge are separated by several minutes.
Why?
– Several surges…series of waves
37. C= √ (g * h)
Where, C : the speed of tsunami, g : gravity acc.
h : depth of the earthquake
Example:
Calculate the speed of the tsunami caused by an
earthquake occurred at 5000 m depth. Then, calculate the
time interval to reaches an island at a distance 500 km from
the center of the earthquake
Solution:
g = 9.8 m/s2, h = 5000 m & l =500 km
C = √ (9.8 * 5000) = 221.4 m/s = 796.9 km/hr
T = Distance / speed = 500/796.9 = 0.62 hr = 37.64 min
Tsunami
Because of their large wave length, tsunamis are
shallow-water waves as they travel across the
ocean basin. The wave velocity depend on depth
38. Review
Discuss the following, draw when possible:
1.Factors affecting wave generation and growth.
2.Compare between sea waves and swell.
3.Wave refraction phenomenon.
4.Movements of the water particle under waves in shallow
and deep water.
5.Types of wave breaker.
6.Effect of currents on the wave characteristics.
7.Near-shore currents
8.Seiches.
9.Storm surge.
10.Tsunami.
39. Review
Rewrite the following sentences after doing the
necessary changes:
1.When a wave propagates towards shallow water, its period
will decrease and length will increase.
2.The rip current is fast and (narrow) wide current moves
parallel to the coast (offshore) .
3.The sea level increases by about (5) 50cm when the
atmospheric pressure (decreases) increases by 5 mb.
40. Review
Complete the following:
1.Water particles move under deep water waves in a ……….. orbit, that
decreases in ……. With depth. Particles at a depth greater than ½
wavelength have no motion.
2.Factors affected the generation and growth of the gravity waves are
…………, ………………. & …………….
3.The wave breaking on beaches has three types which are…Spilling……,
plugging……….. & …Surging…….
4.…… Surging ……. breaker occurs at steep slope beaches and these
coasts are characterized by a small width of … surf zone ……
5.Surging……….. breaker occurs at steep slope beaches and these coasts
are characterized by a …Narrow……. surf zone width.
6.…Spilling…….. breaker occurs at gentle slope beaches and these coasts
are characterized by a wide width of …… surf zone ……..
7.The sea level rises by about …1…… cm when the atmospheric pressure
decrease……. by 1 mb.
41. Review
1. Deep water wave has a wave height 2 m and wave period
11 sec, find out the depth at which the motion of the water
particles diminish & the wave energy and power.
2. Calculate the wave energy and power of shallow water
wave has a height 2.5 m at a water depth 5 m.
3. A surface wave has a wave period 11 sec and wave height
2.2 m in deep water find out: i- The wave speed ii- Wave
energy iii-Wave power. iv- Wave steepness and discuss
the stability.
4. If you know that a surface wave has a height 2.4 m and
wave length 150 m is approaching to a shallow water of a
depth 6m find out: i- The relative depth and determine the
type. ii- the wave speed iii- Wave energy. iv- Wave power.
42. Review
1. A longitudinal lake has a length of 220 km and an average
depth of about 10m. Calculate the period of the main
natural frequency.
2. Calculate the speed of Tsunami at the center of an
earthquake located at Mindanao Trench (11524m) west
the Pacific Ocean. Then, find the estimated time for that
wave to arrive an Island 200 km away from the center of
the earthquake.
3. Calculate the speed of Tsunami waves at the center of an
earthquake located at a depth of 5500 m in the Indian
Ocean. Then, find the approximate time for that wave to
arrive a coast 400 km away from the center of the
earthquake.