This document discusses quality control in the textile industry. It defines quality control and its objectives to maximize production within specifications and achieve satisfactory design. It describes various quality control systems, including online systems that detect faults and take corrective action during production, and offline systems that involve stopping production for testing and inspection. It outlines several physical, chemical, and performance tests conducted on textiles, such as tensile strength testing, abrasion resistance testing, crocking resistance testing, and flame resistance testing. The goal of quality control is to maintain high quality, cost effectiveness, and environmental friendliness of textile production.

1. QUALITY CONTROL IN
TEXTILE

2. DEFINITION
 QUALITY CONTROL:
 "The systems required for programming and coordinating the
efforts of the various groups in an organization to maintain the
requisite quality”.
 OBJECTIVES:
 To maximize the production of goods within the specified tolerances
correctly the first time.
 To achieve a satisfactory design of the fabric or garment in relation
to the level of choice in design, styles, colours, suitability of
components and fitness of product for the market.

3. QUALITY CONTROL IN TEXTILE
Every operation under wet processing such as pre-treatment, dyeing,
printing or finishing irrespective to its specific aim in desired product
finds its basis in:
 Maintenance of high quality
 Cost effectiveness
 Improved functionality
 Lower generation of waste
 Minimum use or reuse of water and chemicals
 Overall environment friendliness
 Application of appropriate machinery and technology

4. ON-LINE QUALITY CONTROL SYSTEM
This type of quality control is carried out without stopping
the production process. During the running of production
process a set up automatically performs and detect the fault
and also takes corrective action.
 Raw Material Control
o Best quality raw materials with economical consideration
o The fabric must be without fault, with proper absorbency,
whiteness as per requirement of the subsequent process.
 Process Control
o Process with accurate parameters

5. OFF-LINE QUALITY CONTROL SYSTEM
 Performed in the laboratory and other production area by
stopping the production process consisting of fabric
inspection and laboratory and other test. Correction steps
are taken according to the test result.
 All the Off-Line tests for finished fabrics can be grouped as
follows:
o Physical tests
o Chemical tests
 Specified test methods of AATCC, ISO, ASTMD, M&S, DIN,
JIS etc.

6. PHYSICAL TESTS
• Identification of fiber physically
• Count & construction of fabric
• Blend Ratio
• Abrasion, Pilling & snagging
• Strength (Tear, strip, seam slippage, cyclic and bursting)
• Dimensional stability
• Appearance test
• Crease recovery
• Air permeability/down proof test

7. FASTNESS TESTING
• Light fastness
• Washing fastness
• Dry Cleaning
• Perspiration
• Cold Water and Sea Water
• Yellowing
• Dry heat and hot pressing
• Sublimation
• Rubbing Fastness (Crocking)

8. CHEMICAL TESTS
• Determination of Formaldehyde content
• Percentage Purity of Acids & Alkalis
• Auxiliaries for application of wet processing
• Viscosity
• pH
• Tests for variety of Functional Finishing
• Flammability
• Water & Oil repellency test
• Soil/Stain release test

9. TENSILE STRENGTH
 A test piece is held in two or more places and extended until
it breaks. The tensile properties measured are generally
considered arbitrary rather than absolute. Results depend
on specimen geometry, the fiber type and arrangement, as
well as the fabric structure.
 Standards commonly used for tensile strength tests are as
follows:
o ISO 13934-1:1999
o ASTM DS 034-95

10. TENSILE STRENGTH

11. FABRIC ABRASION RESISTANCE:
To abrade the sample until a predetermined end-
point is reached, such as the breaking of two threads
or the generation of a hole, while recording the time
or number of cycles to achieve this
Many different standards are used worldwide for
abrasion resistance tests, including:
o ISO 12947-1-1998
o ASTM D 3884

12. FABRIC ABRASION RESISTANCE:
o A four-inch diameter specimen
normally less than 12.5mm thickness
is mounted on a rotating turntable.
o Abrasive wheels are applied to the
sample using a fixed weight.
oFor a specified number of cycles, the
abrasive wheels wear away the
sample.
oThe result is calculated by
measuring the weight loss per
thousand cycles of abrasion.

13. CROCKING RESISTANCE
 To measure for colorfastness to crocking, the fabric to be
tested is rubbed with squares of white cotton fabric (wet
and dry) under controlled pressure for a specified number
of times. The amount of color transferred to the white test
squares is matched to a control chart and a rating is
established.
 Standard commonly used for Crocking resistance test is as
follows,
o AATCC 8

14. CROCKING RESISTANCE

15. ULTRA-VIOLET LIGHT RESISTANCE
 To measure for colorfastness to light, the fabric to be tested
is exposed under specific conditions to a controlled light
source which simulates the sun’s rays. At timed intervals,
the test swatch is compared to a gray scale and the degree
of fading is rated.
 Standard commonly used for Crocking resistance test is as
follows
o AATCC 16A

16. DETECTION OF FORMALDEHYDE IN
TEXTILES
 A weighed fabric specimen is suspended over water in
sealed jar. The jar is placed in an oven at a controlled
temperature for a specified length of time.
 The amount of formaldehyde absorbed by the water is
then determined colorimetrically.
 Test method
o AATCC 112-2008

17. FLAME RESISTANCE
 VERTICAL FLAME TEST:
o Fabric is mounted in a vertical holder and exposed to an open flame for
a specified amount of time. Once the flame is removed, the after flame
and char length of the test sample are measured against various code
standards to establish a classification.
o ASTM D6413
 TUNNEL TEST:
o Fabric is clamped or glued to a substrate, which is placed on the ceiling
of test chamber and ignited by a flame below. Fabric is then evaluated
for the density of the smoke formed, the amount of fuel contributed and
the extent of the flame spread. Rating is established based on these
factors.
o ASTM E84

18. FLAME RESISTANCE

19. OILY STAIN/SOIL RELEASE TEST
 A stain is applied to a test specimen. An amount of the staining
substance is forced into the fabric by using a specified weight.
 The stained fabric is then laundered in a prescribed manner and
the residual stain rated on a scale from 5 to 1 by comparison with
a stain release replica showing a graduated series of stains.
 Standard method
o AATCC 130-2010