The document describes Textile Links and Controls' four-point fabric quality control system. It defines the four-point system and outlines how fabric is inspected, defects are identified and graded on a points system, acceptable point thresholds are determined, and non-compliant fabric is rejected. The key aspects covered are defect grading criteria, points calculation methodology, inspection procedures and equipment requirements.

1. Four-Point System.
Quality control System

2. Prepared By : Mazadul Hasan sheshir
ID: 2010000400008
13th Batch (session 2009-2013)
Department : Wet Processing Technology
Email: mazadulhasan@yahoo.com
Blog : www. Textilelab.blogspot.com (visit)
Southeast University
Department Of Textile Engineering
I/A 251,252 Tejgaon Dhaka Bangladesh
Prepared By :
©right

5. Fabric quality control is accountable for assessing the good quality with the cloth and
identifying whether or not the garments might be in a location to satisfy buyer
requirements. Usually quality check workings are based and according to the
approved sample by the customer. Quality check is done in order to meet the
requirements of the customer in the fabric. Quality control workings start as soon as
the fabric is in-house and cutting department issues an allocation to the quality
control department.
To ensure the fabric quality, circular machines as cut loop of cloth is cylindrical, the
need for profile control sites. the same time, weaving fabric inspection, testing grams
of quality, to ensure products meet design requirements.TCO has a whole system for
verifying and maintaining a desired level of quality control of fabric quality inspection.
We have a good system of fabric quality control: our QC members inspect bulk fabrics
in all processes. Our inspection is usually 100%. Means that all the rolls of fabric
required in making of the garment are checked. Someone will wonder how we can
make it. The reason is that we try to narrow our profit margins in order to maximize
our customer profit.
Introduction:

6. "Quality" is defined as that combination of design and properties of materials
of a product which are needed for the intended end use and level of the
market in which it is sold. The systems required for programming and co-
ordinating the efforts of the various groups in an organisation to maintain the
requisite quality" As such Quality Control is seen as the agent of Quality
Assurance or Total Quality Control.
Quality control:

8. The essential requirements for producing a reliable product has been stated as
follows:-
 A satisfactory design of product, thoroughly proved by adequate development
testing in order to establish its reliability under the conditions to which it will be
subjected in use. This is the Requisite Quality of the product.
 A full specification of the requirements of this quality, which must be clearly
understood by everyone concerned with the production of the constituent parts
and of the complete end product.
 Confirmation that the manufacturing processes are capable of meeting these
requirements.
 Full acceptance, by all those concerned with production, of the responsibility for
meeting the standards set by the specification.
Principle of quality control:

9.  Checks on the product at every stage of manufacture to detect any departures
from the specification.
 Record essential information derived from these checks to provide accurate
evidence for action.
 Establishment of lines of communication, - i.e. Feedback to Production, - to
ensure that this action is taken to effect the appropriate adjustments to
materials, process and operatives to maintain FUTURE production within the
specification.
 Instruction in the use, applications and limitations of the product.
 A study of user experience, feedback to the department's concerned, and rapid
remedial action.
Principle of quality control:

10. If you want to produce high quality garments, you need high quality piece
goods. When a sewing factory receives fabric from the mill, it is difficult to conduct a
full 100% inspection of the fabric. Apparel Search recommends a minimum 10%
inspection of all piece goods prior to spreading the fabric. Many factories attempt to
inspect the fabric during the spreading, but this is probably unrealistic to depend on
the spreader to control the fabric quality evaluation. The fabric should be inspected
prior to the fabric reaching the cutting tables.
There are several piece good inspection systems for measuring the quality of
fabrics. Their is a
Piece Goods Inspection : Fabric Quality Control:

12. Ten-Point System, which was developed in the 1950's. That system assigns penalty
points to each defect, depending on the length of the defect. The system is a bit
complicated because the points per length vary for warp and filling defects. There is also
a Dallas System published in the 1970's. That system was developed specifically for
knits. According to this system, if any defect was found on a finished garment the
garment would then be termed a second. In regard to fabric, this system defines a
second as "more then one defect per ten linear yards, calculated to the nearest ten
yards." For example, one piece 60 yards long would be allowed to have six
defects. Another system for evaluating piece goods is the
Four-Point System. In this system, you should inspect at least 10 percent of the total
rolls in the shipment. Make sure to select at least one roll or each color way. The defect
classification works as follows.
Piece Goods Inspection : Fabric Quality Control:

13. Size of Defect:
3 inches or less = 1 point penalty
Over 3 inches but not over 6 inches = 2 point penalty
Over 6 inches but not over 9 inches = 3 point penalty
Over 9 inches = 4 point penalty
Note: a maximum of 4 points should be charged to one linear yard. Also, note that
only "major" defects are charged.
The acceptable score varies. Many companies use 40 points per 100 yards as
acceptable defect rate. However, others may find this not acceptable...

14. Here is some math to show you an example.
Total Yardage received: 5400
Acceptance Point-count: 40 per 100 yards
 Total Yards Inspected : 540
 Total penalty points found in the sample inspection: 150 points
150 divided by 540 times 100 = 27.77 points per 100 yards (because the
allowance is 40 points per 100 yards, this shipment would be acceptable).
Above are only a few examples of fabric testing procedures. In fact, above is only a
short summary of the processes. If you are responsible for inspecting fabric, you
really will need to do more research on this subject

15. All fabric inspections conducted by Textile Links and Controls is according to the four-
point fabric inspection system. The four-point system derives its name from the basic
grading rule that a maximum of four penalty points can be assessed for any single
defect and that no linear meter can be assigned more than four points regardless of
the number of defects within that piece.
Processed Fabric Inspection Under 4 - point system

16. Defects in both warp / fill directions will be assigned points under the following criteria.
Defect Range Points Evaluation
Up to 3 inches 1 Point
> 3 inches < 6 inches 2 Points
> 6 inches < 9 inches 3 Points
> 9 inches 4 Points
PENALTY POINT EVALUATION:

17. Acceptance Calculation
Roll length in meter = A
Total points found = B
Acceptance Value = B/A x 100 points per 100 meter
Acceptance range
Range Grade
<40 points A
41 – 60 points B
61 – 80 points C
Above 80 points Reject
If the fabric is found within acceptance limit then it is delivered to Garments section. But
if the fabric fault is so high that cross the acceptance limit then it is rejected.

18. FAULTS RESPONSE
Stop/Starting mark 4 Points
Thick/Thin warp or weft yarn 4 Points
All holes regardless the size 4 Points*
Slub : 0-3” of length 1 Points
Slub : 3”-6” of length 2 Points
Oil spots**:up to 5 mm dia 1 Points
Oil spots : 6 to 10 mm dia 2 Points
Oil spots : More than 10 mm dia 4 Points
Loose or tight warp Point will be consider according to fault size
Miss pick/Double pick 4 Points
Cut pick/Broken pick Point will be consider according to fault size
Yarn contamination : up to 0.5 of length 1 Points
Yarn contamination : above to 0.5 of length 2 Points
Neps 1 Points
Smash 1 Points
Knot 1 Points
Crease mark
Fabric with crease mark will be rejected but light
crease may be acceptable.
Dirty mark : up to 5 mm dia 1 Points
Dirty mark : up to 10 mm dia 2 Points
Dirty mark : above 5 mm dia 4 Points
Design fault 4 Points
Patta 4 Points

19. The length of the defect is used to determine the penalty points. Only major defects
are considered. A major defect is any defect, if found on a finished product, would
classify the product as a B- grade. Any defect of a continuous nature shall be
assigned four points for each meter in which it occurs. Severe defects are assigned
the maximum four points for each meter in which they occur.
Example: Regardless of size, a hole would be penalized four points.
Continuing conditions such as barre, side center side shading, roll to roll shading,
narrow or irregular width, creasing, uneven finish shall be counted four points for
every meter within the shipment that is found to contain these conditions, provided
that the article that is to be made from this fabric is classified B-grade due to this
fault. The maximum penalty for any one-meter shall not be more than four points. A
minor defect is any defect that does not classify the product as B-grade because of
either severity or location. When inspecting fabric before cutting, it is necessary to
rate questionable defects as major, since the inspector will not know where the
defect may occur on the item.
WHAT IS A DEFECT?

20. RUNNING DEFECTS:
Any major defect found to repeat and / or run in a continuous manner will constitute a
running defect. All major running defects must be assigned four penalty points to every
meter in the roll where it occurs.
FULL WIDTH DEFECTS:
A full width major defect would cause that meter of fabric to be assigned four penalty
points.
FABRIC WIDTH:
Fabric width will be checked minimum of three times during the inspection of a roll
(beginning,middle and end of the roll).Rolls having width less than the specified are
potential problems. In such cases width deviation of more than 1% would constitute a
major fault. Overall, fabric width is measured from out side of the selvage to the outside
of the opposite selvage.
ROLL LENGTH:
Rolls having meters less than that stated on the packing are a problem. Any roll having
more than 1% lesser fabric than that specified is rejected. The entire shipment shall be
rejected if the total measured meters in the sample audit are more than 1% short that
what is declared on the packing.
WHAT IS A DEFECT?

21. SPLICES:
Rolls can be composed of several spliced parts. No roll shall be accepted that contains
a splice less than twenty five ( 25 ) meters in length unless otherwise expressly
accepted. Ensure that the 95% of the shipment contains 100 meter plus fabric length
if the fabric is being used for made - ups. In case of piece goods, the fabric length and
the number of splices / roll are strictly followed as per the requirement of the
customer.
BOW & SKEW:
No roll shall be accepted as first quality that exhibit bow or skew more than:
Fabric Width Maximum Bow or Skew Design Print/dyes Deviation
Up to 45 inches 2.0% 2.0%
60 inches 2.0% 2.0%
90 inches and above 2.0% 2.0%
DEFECT

22. FABRIC ODORS: No roll shall be accepted that exhibits objectionable odors.
HOLES:
All defects that break the fabric, regardless of size, shall be penalized a maximum of
four points. A hole consists of two or more broken yarns.
The above is subject to change if buyer requires a tighter tolerance / nature of
design / end use of the fabric.Tolerance for bowed condition not affecting the full
width will be fractionalized part of the maximums as stated above according to
the area affected by the bow. Penalty points will not be assigned for fabrics found to
have conditions of bowing in excess of the above stated tolerances but shall be
noted in the inspection report. And if any fabric exhibits bow or skew where its end
use becomes doubtful, then that fabric will be rejected.
DEFECT

23. Although fabric faults are numerous but some of the common fabric faults are
mentioned below:
Abrasion Mark: A place in the fabric where the surface has been damaged due to
friction or abnormally weakened by any operation through which it has been passed.
Bow: When the filling yarns lye in an arc across the width of the fabric.
Skew: Distortion in the construction of the fabric i.e. in the yarn that constitute the
fabric.
Crease: A fabric defect across the fabric width usually caused by a sharp fold.
Oil Stain: Oil mark on the fabric.
Dye Stain: An area of discoloration due to un- even absorption of colorant.
Hole: A break in the fabric involving more than two yarns.
COMMON FABRIC FAULTS:

24. Mispick: A pick not properly interlaced.
Double Pick: Two yarns running simultaneously, mostly in the weft.
Misprint: In printed fabrics, either missed, or partially missed, or incorrectly
positioned relative to each other.
Slub: An abruptly thickened place in a yarn.
Screen Out: The appearance of a colored separation line in a printed design.
Calendar Line: Sharp pressmark on fabric due to the calendar during the
processing.
Contamination: Colored fibers with the warp or weft fibers.
COMMON FABRIC FAULTS:

25. The following fabric penalty point grading standards are to be used when inspecting
fabrics.
Individual Roll Points:
All decisions are based on a square meter computation. The following is used to
determine the point count for each roll.
(Total points * 3937) / (Inspected meters * Fabric width (inches))
= Points per 100 square meter.
Points:
The total point count per contract fabric is calculated by: Adding the number of
meters audited.Adding the number of points per linear meter.Then converting the
above totals from points per linear meters to square meters.
(Total linear meter points * 3937) / (Total inspected meters * Fabric width (inches))
= Shipment points per 100 square meter.
The maximum approved points as per Textile Links & Controls for piece goods / made
- ups fabric is 15 / 100 square meter. And for greige fabric it is 10 / 100 square meter.
Or this could be followed as per the standards given by the customers.
POINT CALCULATIONS:

26. A minimum 10% quantity of fabric for each color way, design, fabric width or fabric
construction listed against a particular contract must be inspected. In case, if any
problem arises in any of the above style then it has to be re-inspected another 10%. If
the problem is still present and the points exceed the acceptable limit, the fabric lot
is to be rejected.
INSPECTION QUANTITIES:

27. The person inspecting the fabric must count the rolls of fabric against a particular
contract & take out 10% of the fabric randomly in such a way that every color,
design, fabric width & fabric construction is accounted for.
ROLLS SELECTION PROCEDURE:

28. This procedure shows the steps necessary to ensure an effective fabric inspection
quality control program:
1. Determine the fabric quantity to be inspected.
2. Select the fabric rolls for inspection.
3. Place the fabric roll / bale on inspection frame / table.
4. Cut off a 6-inch piece across the width of the fabric from the beginning of
the roll. Mark this piece so that the inspector will know the right and left
side of the fabric. Use the strip to check the shading side-to-side and
end-to-end by checking it at least against the middle of the
5. roll and once at the end of the roll.
6. Inspect for visual defects at a speed slow enough to find the defects.
7. Check that the roll contains the meters as stated by the Fabric Supplier.
8. Check for bowing & skewing in the fabric.
9. Major fabric defects are to be flagged by the Fabric Supplier. However, if
any fault is not flagged already then it must be marked with a sticker or
masking tape during inspection for its trace- ability and corrective action
at cutting stage.
10. Record the faults of the fabric on the Fabric Quality Report.
FABRIC INSPECTION PROCEDURE:

29. Textile Links and Controls suggests to use a format for the checking of all fabric
shade variations from roll to roll. In this format water falls of different shades’
categories of different rolls is maintained and compared to each other to check
the extent of the shading variation.
If any shade requires special attention / treatment in the cutting, it is
mentioned in the remarks column.
If any fabric is out of tolerance with respect to the Master Sample or the shade
variation extent among the rolls is out of tolerance, then the fabric is reject. The
rejected fabric is sent back to Fabric Supplier for reprocessing / replacement.
ROLL-TO-ROLL SHADE CHECKING SYSTEM:

30. The person who is responsible for fabric inspection must have the following
facilities / equipments in good working condition.
1. Inspection frame with counter.
2. D - 65 light source (sunlight) / TL - 84 light source at the inspection frame
as per the requirement of the customer.
3. Measuring tape & pair of scissors.
4. Stickers or masking tape to identify the faults.
5. Pick glass.
6. Digital Camera for taking reference snaps.
7. Master fabric sample or customer’s reference sample.
8. Textile Links and Controls fabric inspection form.
TOOLS FOR FABRIC CHECKING:

31. 1. The person must be at least Graduate.
2. He or she must have a minimum of two year experience in the textile
industry.
3. He or she must be well versed with the 4-point fabric inspection system.
4. He or she must be active and physically fit.
5. He or she must not be colorblind.
ELIGIBILITY CRITERA FOR THE QUALITY INSPECTOR:

35. General Inspection Procedures
Fabric inspection is done in suitable and safe environment with enough ventilation
and proper lighting.
Fabric passing through the frame must be between 45-60 degree angles to inspector
and must be done on appropriate Cool White light 2 F96 fluorescent bulbs above
viewing area. Back light can be used as and when needed.
Fabric speed on inspection machine must not be more than 15 yards per minute.
All fabric inspection must be done when 80% of good or lot is received.
Standard approved bulk dye lot standards for all approved lots must be available
prior to inspection.
Approved standard of bulk dye lot must be available before starting inspection for
assessing colour, hand, weight, construction, finish and visual appearance.
Shade continuity within a roll by checking shade variation between centre and
selvage and the beginning, middle and end of each roll must be evaluated and
documented.
Textiles like knits must be evaluated for weight against standard approved weight.
Fabric width must be checked from selvage to selvage against standard.
All defects must be flagged during inspection
The length of each roll inspected must be compared to length as mentioned on
supplier ticketed tag and any deviation must be documented and reported to mill for
additional replacement to avoid shortage.
If yard dyed or printed fabrics are being inspected the repeat measurement must be
done from beginning, middle and end of selected rolls.

36. Four Point System of Textile Inspection
Four Point System is based on penalty points given to a defect found when inspecting fabric.
Rule is as below:
Not more than four penalty points may be given for any single defect.
No more than four penalty points may be given to one linear yard/meter regardless of the
number of defects found within one yard/meter.
For continuous defects such as shading between side, centre side, side to side shading, end to
end shading no penalty points are assigned but the roll is graded as second quality and must be
reported to mill for replacement.

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