Weltandpiques

PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE
Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal ,
pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlepages.com
Welts and Piques
These produce horizontal lines in the cloth. Welt structures
produce only simple and cord lines in the horizontal directions
whereas pique structures produce weave cord lines in the
fabric.
Pique - A typical pique structure consists of a plain face
fabric composed of one series of warp and one series of weft
threads, and a series of back or stitching warp threads. The
stitching ends are placed on a separate beam which is very
heavily weighted. At intervals, the tight stitching ends are
interwoven into the plain face texture. This results in pulling
down of the face texture and formation of an indentation of
the surface. To increase the prominence of the unstitched
portion of the cloth, wadding picks are inserted between the
tight back stitching end and the slack face fabric.
First we discuss about the welt structures
Welt – The term is applied to those pique structures that have
horizontally running cords. Number of ends is always 6 and
number of picks is always an even number i.e. 6,8,10 etc.
How to draw ordinary welt structure (Loose Back Welt
Without Wadding)
Let us draw an ordinary welt structure with a welt length of 4
picks. We need a 6 by 6 grid to represent this.
Step 1: Draw a 6×6 grid and draw 1st, 3rd, 4th, 6th ends
which are face ends as plain weave. It is indicated by dots (.)
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Step 2: As the welt length is of 4 picks, leave the first four
picks of 2nd and 4th end and raise 5th and 6th pick on stitching
ends.
This is ordinary welt structure. The cross sectional view is
given in the side figure. Here the tight ends are only lifted to
form the indentations, such type of structures are known as
loose back structures.
Loose Back Wadded welt structure: In wadded welt
structure, wadded picks are inserted in the welt structure
between plain ends and tight ends.

Suppose we want to insert wadded picks in the welt given
above at the position as indicated by the arrows.
Then the grid with wadded picks is as given
Now to bind wadded picks, raise plain ends over wadded
picks and drop stitching ends under wadded picks as given
below:
This completes the wadded welt structure.

Fast Back Wadded Welt Structure
The term ‘fast back’ is applied to cloths in which the stitching
ends are interwoven in plain order with all, or some wadding
picks. It reduces the float length and produces a more
serviceable cloth which is less liable to accidental damage. It
is produced in the same way as the loose back wadded welt
structure except that in this case the loose floats of stitching
ends are stitched by raising stitching ends over wadded pics.
The following figure gives an example of fast back welt with
wadding picks.
Waved Piques
A waved pique is a simple modification of the welt
structure in which the indentations are not horizontal line but
are arranged in alternate groups.
There are two types of picks in waved piques, the face
picks and wadded picks.
How to draw Piques on design paper

Let us take a motif presented by the figure given,
which tells us the lifting of tight ends or stitching on face
picks.
We take arrangement as two plain ends to one tight end and 6
plain picks to 2 wadded picks. Thus we need to represent one
repeat a total of (6x2+6)=18 ends and (12+4)=16 picks.
Step 1 : Construct a grid of 18 ends and 16 picks. Mark it
with plain ends, tight ends, face picks and wadded picks. Fill
the plain ends and face picks in plain order as shown in the
figure.

Step 2:
Fill the plain ends and face picks in plain order
Step 3:

Now raise tight ends or face picks according to the motif.
Step 4:
Now raise all face ends or plain ends on wadded picks. It
is represented by (.)

Weltandpiques

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Weltandpiques