This document provides information on a 2 week hair color course including safety procedures, hair structure, the color wheel, formulation, categories of hair color products, lighteners, toners, consultation, mixing, strand tests, and highlighting techniques. The course covers topics across Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays of week 1 and week 2, including safety, hair structure, the color wheel, formulations, categories of color products, lighteners, toners, consultations, mixing, strand tests, and highlighting techniques.

1. MILADY
HAIRCOLOR
Categories. Chemistry. Formulating. Techniques.

3. TUESDAY-Safety; Intro; Hair structure
WEDNESDAY- Color wheel;
Formulation
THURSDAY- Color categories
FRIDAY- Lighteners/toners
TUESDAY- Consultation; Mixing;
Strand test
WEDNESDAY- Lighteners; Techniques
THURSDAY- Color Correction;
Fillers & Grey coverage
FRIDAY- Tips & Review
Week 1 Week 2

4. Safety Precautions
• Administer patch test.
• Do not apply if abrasions are present.
• Do not apply if metallic or compound tint is present.
• Do not brush hair prior to service.
• Read and follow all manufacturer’s directions.
• Use disinfected applicators and tools.
• Drape properly.
• Perform strand test.
• Use glass or plastic bowl or plastic bottle.
• Wear protective gloves.
• Do not let color get in eyes.
• Do not overlap product during retouch.
• Use mild, acid-balanced shampoo.
• Always wash hands before and after serving each client.

5. •Haircolor: a professional,
industry-coined term
referring to products and
services for artificially
coloring the hair
•Hair color: refers to the
natural color of the hair

6. • Cover up or blend grey hair
• Change
• Enhance an existing hair color
• Create a fashion statement
• Correct unwanted tones
• Accentuate a haircut
Remember to discuss WHY
someone wants to change their
hair color
WHY DO PEOPLE COLOR THEIR HAIR?

7. FACTORS THAT EFFECT HAIR COLOR- Hair Structure
Does not effect hair color
Effects choice of color strength; How well color takes/lasts
All chemical changes; Protein; Melanin

8. FACTORS THAT EFFECT HAIR COLOR- D.E.P.T.H
D- Density Amount per square inch

9. FACTORS THAT EFFECT HAIR COLOR- D.E.P.T.H
E- Elasticity Ability to stretch

10. FACTORS THAT EFFECT HAIR COLOR- D.E.P.T.H
P- Porosity Low, Average, High; Determines how long color lasts & takes

11. FACTORS THAT EFFECT HAIR COLOR- D.E.P.T.H
T- Texture
Diameter; Cuticle layers; amount of melanin/pigment; determines strength of product

12. FACTORS THAT EFFECT HAIR COLOR- D.E.P.T.H
H- Hair History
• Is their hair previously colored?
• What kind of color: professional or over the counter?
• How long ago was the last color?
• Any highlights or lightener visible or underneath?
• What kind of water?
• How many color applications do they receive monthly?
• Is hair to shoulders or longer? ( longer hair still has color on it )
Determines steps, technique, color type, achievability

13. LET’S REVIEW!!!!
Tuesday
• What are some Safety precautions to
take?
• What is the difference between hair color
and haircolor?
• 3 main parts of the hair?
• Why is hair texture so important when
doing a chemical service?
• How does porosity effect haircolor?
• What are some things to discuss about
hair history?

14. NATURAL HAIR COLOR/ PIGMENT- Melanin
In side the Cortex EUMELANIN
Brown/Black
Bigger oval shaped
less- quicker to
remove
PHEOMELANIN
Red/Blonde
Diffused, smaller, rod
shaped- harder to
remove
NATURAL HAIR
COLOR - mixture

15. HAIR COLOR LEVELS
Level System identifies lightness or darkness
• Hair color ranges from 1-10 or 1-12
• Level 1 being the darkest; Level 12
being the lightest
• Each level has underlying tones that are
exposed when formulating
• All the underlying tones & levels live
on the Color Wheel

16. HAIR COLOR LEVELS
Finding your Guests natural level
• Always identify in center back of
head
• Area is less exposed to
environmental factors
• Shows true level
• Determine % of grey
• Match with swatch
• Communicate with your guest

17. • Grey hair requires special
attention
• The lack of pigment/depth can
cause hair to appear lighter if
not formulated correctly
• Determine % of grey to
correctly formulate
• Grey hair can be from age,
genes, stress
GREY HAIR- Loss of pigment

18. Contributing Pigment results
from MELANIN in the cortex
HAIR COLOR LEVELS ON COLOR WHEEL

19. THE COLOR WHEEL & LAW OF COLOR- Never changes
PRIMARY
CAN NOT be made;
makes up every color
NEUTRAL
SECONDARY
Mixing Primary in EQUAL parts
TERTIARY
Mixing neighboring Primary &
Secondary colors

20. THE COLOR WHEEL & LAW OF COLOR- Never changes
NEUTRAL
COMPLEMENTARY COLORS:
Opposite each other on Color Wheel; Cancel
N.E.I
• NEUTRALIZE: Complementary
color
• ENHANCE: Color on either side of
level chosen
• INTENSIFY: Add more of what
occurs naturally at that level
CENTER is NEUTRAL:
Balance of warm and cool
mixture of all primary colors
Tone- Warm, Cool, Neutral

21. THE COLOR WHEEL & CONTRIBUTING PIGMENT
FACTORS WHEN FORMULATING:
• It matters what level YOU ARE
LIFTING TO not the level you
started with
• Deciding whether to N.E.I. your
exposed contributing pigment
• Is their hair previously colored
• Do they have any grey ?

22. FORMULATION STEPS
NEUTRAL
1. Natural Level
2. Desired Level
3. Canvas Level
(what's on the hair now)
4. Dominant Pigment
AT DESIRED
LEVEL
5. Percentage of grey
• Decide on Color Line/choice
• Do you have to remove any
artificial color
• What volume of developer
• Covering grey

23. • Grey hair requires special attention
• The lack of pigment/depth can cause hair to appear
lighter if not formulated correctly
• Adding a NEUTRAL ( N ) allows desired color to
“anchor” in the hair
• ALL 3 PRIMARY colors need to be present for grey
hair color formula to appear balanced & saturated
• If RYB are not present, the true tonality of desired
color will appear lighter & brighter:
(red based color with no Neutral = pinkish tones)
GREY HAIR GUIDELINES
% of GREY % of NEUTRAL ( N )
25% GREY .25 or ¼ oz N
50% GREY .50 or ½ oz N
75% GREY .75 or ¾ oz N
100% GREY 1 oz N

24. LET’S REVIEW!!!!
Wednesday
• Where does melanin live?
• What are the types of melanin?
• What is the Level System and what does it identify?
• Best place to find someones natural level?
• How does the level system relate to the color wheel?
• What gets exposed as you lift the hair?
• 3 Primary colors?
• Complementary colors do what?
• What do you need in order for grey to cover? How do
you know how much to add?

25. COLOR CATEGORIES- Oxidative & Non Oxidative
• Temporary
• Direct Dye
• Semi-permanent
• Demi-permanent
• Permanent

26. COLOR CATEGORIES- Temporary
• NON oxidative
• Large color molecule
• Does not alter structure of
hair
• Coats/Stains the hair shaft
• Lasts shampoo to shampoo
• Examples: rinses, color hair
spray, color mascara, hair
chalk
• Longevity depends on
porosity

27. COLOR CATEGORIES- Direct Dye
• A type of Semi-permanent
• NON oxidative
• Large color molecule
• Does not alter structure of hair
• Coats/Stains the hair shaft
• No developer: what you see is
what you get
• Fantasy Colors
• Lasts SEVERAL shampoos
• Responds best on Pre-lightened
hair
• Longevity depends on porosity

28. COLOR CATEGORIES- Semi-Permanent
• NON oxidative
• Medium color molecule
• Deposit only
• Does not alter structure of hair
( cortex )
• Penetrates hair shaft; stains
cuticle
• Fantasy Colors
• Correct unwanted tones
• Lasts SEVERAL shampoos
• Responds best on Pre-lightened
hair
• Patch test
• Longevity depends of porosity

29. COLOR CATEGORIES- Demi-Permanent
• Oxidative
• Needs developer
• Med-Small color molecule
• Partially developed dye
molecule- PREoxidative
• Deposit only- NO lifting
• Low or no ammonia
• Grey blending/color refresh
• Little to no damage
• Great for changes that aren’t
permanent
• Adds shine
• Toner
• Filler
• Requires patch test

30. COLOR CATEGORIES- Permanent
• Oxidative
• Needs developer
• Smallest color molecule
• Colorless dye precursor-
ANALINE DERIVITIVE
• Opens cuticle
• Chemical change ( alters cortex )
• Permanently changes hair color
• LIFTS & DEPOSITS
• Grey Coverage
• Removes natural pigment &
replaces it with artificial pigment
• Lasts until new growth
• Can give up to 4 levels of lift
• Only lifts on virgin hair

31. GRADUAL COLORS- Over the counter color
• Progressive / Metallic
• pH of 11 & up
• Unknown volume
• 1 formula - 10 min color ??
• Wax Petroleum Light reflective ingredients
• Deposits Color film
• High amount of ammonia & pigment
• Old / expired
• ProgressiveCoats follicle- removes shine
• Highly reactive with chemicals (h2o2)
• Not cost effective
• Lead, silver, copper
• Sulfate, acetate, citrate, bisulfite
• Hydrolyzation = melting
• Drys & suffocates
• Straw feeling = high porosity
“One size fits all color”

32. NATURAL HAIRCOLOR- Henna
• Henna" All natural, all organic " - HA!!!
• Chemically processed
• Mixed with metallic salts
• Builds up, suffocates
• Changes protein color
• Can not be removed
• Stains hair
• Can take 1-6 hours to develop
• Mud like coating
• Mixed with water, coffee or tea
• Can cause dermatitis
• White henna - magnesium
carbonate-highly alkaline ( "
alternative " )
Derived from the plant Lawsonia inermis
The leaves are harvested and dried

33. DEVELOPERS- Oxidizing agent
3% 6% 9% 12%
DEVELOPER LEVELS OF LIFT
10 VOLUME ( 3% ) Deposit; up to 1 level
20 VOLUME ( 6% ) Up to 2 levels of lift
30 VOLUME ( 9%) Up to 3 levels of lift
40 VOLUME ( 12%) Up to 4 levels of lift
Developers and Color is LEVELS OF LIFT
Developers and Lightener is SPEED
• Do you want to walk, jog, run or sprint?
• 10 will get you there, 40 will get you there
• But always maintain theintegrity ofthe hair
Hydrogen Peroxide
pH between 2.5- 4.5

34. LET’S REVIEW!!!!
Thursday
• What are the color categories?
• How do know when to choose which one?
• Which is the largest molecule?
• Which is pre oxidative or partially developed?
• What is main ingredient in Developer?
• What is the difference between lightener and
developer VS color and developer?
• Some things you learned about Gradual colors?
• Some things you learned about Natural
Haircolor?

35. LIGHTENERS
• Color CAN NOT remove color
• Bleach- Professional term: Lightener
• Remove hair color ( natural melanin )
• Remove artificial haircolor
• Lighten & brighten
• Ideal to use for more than 4 levels of lift
on virgin hair
• On and off scalp applications
• Decolorize/Disperse melanin & pigment
• Exposes underlying pigment
• Opens cuticle
• Over processing; No over lapping
• Do NOT lift past pale yellow
• Shampoo cap
WHEN IN DOUBT BLEACH IT OUT

36. • During the DECOLORIZATION PROCESS, there are only 7 stages of lightening
that OUR EYES can detect.
• Decolorizing the hair exposes the UNDERLYING PIGMENT/ CONTRIBUTING
PIGMENT
PALE
YELLOW YELLOW ORANGE
RED
ORANGE RED BROWN BLACK
7 6 5 4 3 2 1
HAIRCOLOR DECOLORIZATION

37. TONERS
• N.E.I – Neutralize. Enhance. Intensify
• Used to correct unwanted tones
• When going darker
• Seal the cuticle
• Add shine
• Works best on Pre-lightened hair
• Only tone at the Level you are at
• Semi/Demi permanent

38. Lifting Past Pale Yellow
• Hair will become mushy.
• Hair will lose elasticity.
• Hair will be harsh and brittle when dry.
• Hair will often suffer breakage.
• Hair will often not accept toner.

39. LET’S REVIEW!!!!
Friday
• What is the purpose of Lighteners?
• How do you know when to choose lightener
over color?
• Why is the decolorization process important
to understand?
• What is a toner?
• How do you know what level of toner to use?
• What happens if you lift past pale yellow?

40. CONSULTATION • Book 15 minutes of additional time.
• Have client fill out record card.
• Conduct in proper lighting.

41. CONSULTATION
• D.E.P.T.H. – Density. Elasticity. Texture. Hair History ( most important )
• Proper draping
• Proper lighting
• Have visuals
• Communicate on ALL possible outcomes
• BE HONEST!
• Lifestyle: Career, hobbies etc.
• Maintenance required/upkeep
• How they style at home
• Proper home care products & steps
• Grey coverage VS Grey blending
• What color line & developer
• Can their hair handle the service?
• Color staining on the skin
• Proper way to shampoo color services
• REMEMEMBER to record formula & or any challenges
• COMMUNICATE. COMMUNICATE. COMMUNICATE!!

42. Mixing Permanent Haircolor
• Applicator bottle: Bottle
must be large enough for
color and developer; mix
according to
manufacturer’s directions.
• Brush and bowl: Use
nonmetallic bowl. Pour
developer first, then
product; blend thoroughly.

43. Double-Process Haircolor
• Hair Lightening – bleaching or decolorizing.
• Double-process high-lift coloring – two step blonding.
• Prelightening – applied the same as hair lightening.

44. Preliminary Strand Test/ Patch Test
• Watch for discoloration or breakage.
• Reconditioning may be required.
• Increased strength or processing time may be required.
• Patch test is required 24 to 48 hours in advance of
application.

45. LET’S REVIEW!!!!
Tuesday
• Something to consider in a consultation?
• What does DEPTH stand for?
• What 2 ways can you apply color?
• What is considered a Double Process?
• What is a strand test? why is it important?
• What is a patch test? why is it important?

46. Three Types of Lighteners
• Oil
– On-the-scalp lightener
• Cream
– On-the-scalp lightener
• Powder
– On/ Off-the-scalp lightener
• Activators: increase lightening
ability
OIL CREAM POWDER

47. On-the-Scalp Lighteners
• Mildest
• Appropriate for one to two levels of
lift
• Give some protection to hair and scalp
• More control from thickeners
• Help prevent overlapping
OIL CREAM
POWDER

48. Powdered Off-the-Scalp Lighteners
• Not applied to scalp
• Strong enough for blonding
• Called quick lighteners
• Contain oxygen-releasing boosters
• Dry out more quickly than other
lighteners
• Expand and spread out during
processing

49. Time Factors for Processing
• Darker hair has more melanin and takes longer
to lighten.
• Porosity influences timing.
• Tone influences timing.
• Strength of product influences timing.
• Heat leads to quicker lightening.

50. Lightener Retouch
• Lighten new growth first.
• Begin in the back, where natural level is darker
• Do hairline last because of density and “baby
hairs”
• Use cotton if needed
• Cover to keep moist
• DO NOT OVER LAP
• Use a lower volume or shampoo cap to “freshen
midshaft”

51. Highlighting/Lowlights
• Highlights- lighter
• Reverse lights- lowlights
• Color some strands lighter or darker than
natural color
• Adds variety of lighter shades and illusion of
depth
• Can be subtle or stand out
• Light colors cause the light to advance
toward the eye, to appear larger, and to make
details more visible.
• Darker colors recede, appear smaller

52. Cap Technique
• This technique involves pulling clean strands of hair through a perforated cap with
a thin plastic or metal hook. The number of strands pulled through the cap
determines the degree of highlighting achieved.

53. Foil Technique
• This technique involves coloring selected strands by slicing or weaving out
sections, placing them on foil or plastic wrap, applying lightener or
permanent haircolor, and sealing them in the wrap.
WHISPER TALK SHOUT

54. BOLD WEAVESLICE
• Always WEAVE the
hairline/perimeter
• Fine Weave- natural & sunkissed
• Babylight- Micro-weave
• Bold Weave- Skip weave;
brighter
• Slice- bold, streaky
• Chunky- Back to back slices, NO
hair in between
• WHISPER, TALK, SHOUT
FINE WEAVE
Foil Techniques

56. Baliage/ Balayage
• Baliage: involves painting product onto clean, styled hair; also
known as the free-form/ handpainting technique
OLD SCHOOL NEW SCHOOL

57. LET’S REVIEW!!!!
Wednesday
• What are the types of lighteners?
• Which is best for fragile hair or a sensitive
scalp?
• What is the cut off time for lightener?
• What are some techniques that involve
lightener?
• What happens if you overlap lightener?
• What are some Foil Techniques?

58. Toning Highlighted and
Dimensionally Colored Hair
• Decolorize to desired level.
• Consider porosity and pigmentation.
• Can only tone to the level you lift to!!!!!!!!
• Avoid affecting untreated hair.
• Use nonoxidative toner.
• Use traditional semipermanent color.
• Use no-lift, deposit-only demipermanent color that will not
cause additional lightening.

59. Highlighting Shampoos
• Used when slight change in color is desired
• Works best on dark to medium blonde to light brown
• Used to highlight natural color in a single application
• Subtle changes
• Used to cancel pigment or enhance pigment

60. • Grey hair is missing YELLOW; still has BLUE and
RED.
• Grey hair will be warm when lifted because of the
BLUE and RED
• White hair is NO PIGMENT: Yellow tint is from
natural shade of keratin

61. Discoloration Causes• Smoking
• Medication
• Sun exposure
• Some styling aids
• Orange- Hypothyroidism
• Red/Orange- Iron in water
• Green – Copper in water
Yellow
Discoloration Causes

62. Formulating for Gray Hair
• Level 9 or lighter may not give
complete coverage.
• Level 7 or darker can be used to
create pastel and blond tones.
• For 80 percent to 100 percent natural
gray, blond is more flattering than
darker tones.
• When coloring salt and pepper to
darker, color on color will make
darker shade.
• Client personality
• Personal preferences
• Amount and location of gray
hair

63. Tips for Gray Coverage
• Use 20 or 30 volume
• Process color for full 45 minutes.
• Add neutral to formula-
NEED ALL 3 PRIMARY COLORS
% of GREY % of NEUTRAL ( N )
25% GREY .25 or ¼ oz N
50% GREY .50 or ½ oz N
75% GREY .75 or ¾ oz N
100% GREY 1 oz N
Presoftening
• Old School technique
• Used to be developer ( acidic )
• Can use COLOR ALONE on
resistant areas then apply formula
on top
• Shampoo with clarifying first.
• Some companies make additives:
pure pigment with 3 primaries
added to hair or formula

64. Rules for Effective Color Correction
• Do not panic.
• Determine true
problem.
• Determine cause of
problem.
• Develop a solution.
• Take one step at a time.
• Never guarantee
results.
• Always strand-test for
accuracy.

65. Damaged Hair Characteristics
• Rough texture
• Overporous condition
• Brittle and dry to touch
• Susceptible to breakage
• No elasticity
• Spongy and matted when wet
• Color fading or absorbing too
rapidly

66. Damaged Hair Treatments
• Use penetrating conditioner.
• Normalize pH with finishing
rinse.
• Postpone further chemical
services.
• Perform between-service
conditioning.
• Recommend retail products for
home maintenance.

67. Fillers- “Fills in holes”
• Conditioner fillers: used to recondition
damaged, overly porous hair
( Think Olaplex or Kera-triplex)
• Color fillers: used to equalize porosity and
deposit color in one application
( Used when going darker )

68. REPIGMENTATION
REPIGMENTATION/FILLER
• When going 4 or more shades darker
• “ FILL” with missing PRIMARY colors
• Allows for a uniform, consistent end result
• Prevents greenish dull tones when going back
to natural color
• Evens out porosity
• REPIGMENT 2 levels LIGHTER then the
desired end result
• Apply to pre-lightened areas, process, rinse
• Apply desired shade after repigmentation has
been applied
• Semi/Demi permanent

69. LET’S REVIEW!!!!
Thursday
• What is a highlighting shampoo?
• Some tips with Grey hair?
• Why does grey hair ( or any hair ) turn
different colors?
• What is something to consider in a color
correction?
• How do you know if someone has damaged
hair?
• What are the 2 types of fillers?
• Why do you need to repigment?

70. Tips for Redheads
• Use red-orange base to create
warm, coppery reds.
• Use red-violet for hot, fiery reds.
• Use no-lift, deposit-only color to
refresh.
• If gray is present, add 1/2 to 1 oz of
a natural color.
• Refresh with a soap cap to brighten
color.

71. Tips for Brunettes
• Use cool blue base to avoid brassy tones.
• Do not lighten more than two levels above natural color to avoid brassy tones.
• Add 1 oz of natural color to cover gray.
• Natural highlights should be deep or caramel colored.

72. Tips for Blondes
• Watch out for underlying, unwanted
warm tones when lightening from
brown to blond.
• Use level 7 or darker to cover gray.
• Get light pale blond by double-
processing.
• If using high lift blonds to only 5
levels, results may be warm or
brassy.
• If highlights become too blond, add
lowlights for more natural color.

73. Common Haircolor Solutions
• Refresh faded color: Apply a demipermanent haircolor within
two levels of formula and process for up to 10 minutes.
• Green cast: Remove buildup and use color to neutralize
unwanted color.
• Overall color is too light: Apply a no-lift, deposit-only color
that is one to two levels darker.
• Overall color is too dark: Apply a haircolor remover for 10
minutes and check.
• Shampoo cap

74. LET’S REVIEW!!!!
Friday
• Some tips for Red heads?
• Some tips for Brunettes?
• Some tips for Blondes?
• What is a shampoo cap?