Using no ammonia no ppd hair color to do high lift blonding and tint back brunettes. Tips on creating formulas and varying timing and colors.

1. Healthy Beautiful Hair
High Lifts,Tint Backs & Beyond

2. Ensuring Perfect Color
Proper Preparation
Proper Formulation
Proper Application
Proper Saturation
ProperTiming
Proper Rinsing

3. Purify
the Hair
Repair & Moisturize
the hair
Preparation

4. We will discuss
Formulation

5. Thin Sectioning Application

6. Proper Saturation

7. 45 minutes
Timing
Timing can vary up or down depending on stylists desired
out come. Remember that increasing the time increases
the deposit, decreasing time affects colors lasting

8. Softness & Shine Every time
When washing use warm water, then Emulsify Color, Lastly rinse. Finished color
should be Soft, Shiny, & Healthy Looking after every single application

9. Seal & Protect Colors

10. Sun
Sun tans skin but lightens hair?
Why does it produce darkness on skin but lightness on hair

11. Skin
The sun destroys the melanin in your skin
Since your skin is alive, it can respond to the sun’s damage by producing more
melanin which in turn makes your skin darker

12. Hair
The sun bleaches and destroys the melanin in your hair giving you lighter hair
Since hair is dead, the hair will stay that color until new hair grows in

13. MIMICTHE SUN
WITHYOUR LIFTING
FORMULATION

14. Shades of Brown
Natural Hair Levels are different variations of the color Brown
.0 .6 .3
.07 .66 .33
.22 .44 .37

15. Tint Back
=
Replace Pigment
Lifting
=
Remove Pigment

16. Lightening Step 1
- =
Brown - Blue = Orange

17. Lightening Step 2
- =
Orange - Red = Blonde

18. Lightening Step 3
- =
Blonde - Yellow = Platinum

19. Remaining Pigments

20. Counteracting Unwanted Pigments
These pigments can
be remaining pigments
or existing unwanted
pigments

21. Basic Lifting Formula
Equal Parts:
11 Series + 60 Volume

22. Basic Lifting Formula
11.1 = Blue
11.2 = Violet
11.23 = Beige
11.3 = Gold
11.53 = Mahogany Gold

23. Sometimes Underlying Pigment
is too strong

24. As level rises
Amount of Pigment Decreases
Water Conditioners Alkaline Agent Pigment

25. Level 11
Has very little tone.
11.2
has very little
Violet
but a lot of lifting
power
Level 9
Has more tone than
11.2
MoreViolet Pigment
but less lifting
power
Lifter Toner

26. Use Level 11
for maximum
lift
Add
Amplifier
to help
tone
Lifter Toner

27. Toning Lift Formula
Starter Formula:
Equal Parts:
Color + Developer
1 3/4 part 11 Series
1/4 part Amplifier
+ 2 parts 60 Volume

28. The more 11 series
the more lift but less
tone
The more amplifier
the less lift but more
tone
How Much Amplifier?
You Decide based on what you want

29. 1.75 oz
11 Series
.25 oz
Amplifier
How Much Amplifier?
Start Conservative

30. Counteracting Yellow
When lifting lighter shades add 07 Blue Amplifier to cut yellow undertone in outcome
1.75 oz
11.2 Teinture
+
0.25 oz
07 Amplifier
+
2 oz
60 Volume

31. Counteracting Red Undertone
When lifting darker shades add 37 Green Amplifier to cut red undertone in outcome
For Natural Looking Carmel Highlights on Darker Bases
1.5 oz
11.2 Teinture
+
0.5 oz
37 Amplifier
+
2 oz
60 Volume

32. Accentuating Red
When lifting into copper or red shades add 44 or 66 Amplifier to add copper
or red undertone to outcome or use 11.53 shade for natural warmth
1.5 oz
11.0 Teinture
+
0.5 oz
44 Amplifier
+
2 oz
40 Volume

33. Vary Developer
Choice
for desired lift
Vary Color Selection
and Amplifier
for desired look
Tips
Start Conservative then go crazy :)

34. For best professional results
AlwaysTone
and / or seal your colors

35. Type of Toner depends on how
bad the tone is
Use amplifiers in your formula to tone as you lift.
*Color Shampoo
Instantané as a toner by itself
Color Glaze Formula
Semi / DemiToner Formula

36. Pre Toning
Amplifiers in your formulas

37. Types of Formulas
All Oxidative
Permanent Dyes
Oxidative & Acidic
Non Permanent
Dyes

38. Color Glaze
1 oz Clear Gloss
1 oz Instantané shade
CG
5.65

39. 5.34
5.34
Demi
2 oz Instantané
1 oz 20Volume
1 oz Mastey Hair Color

40. 5.34
5.34
Semi
2 oz Instantané
1 oz 10Volume
1 oz Mastey Hair Color

41. Too Dark?
Decolorize

42. Decolorize
11.2 + 60Volume
Timing and lift varies based on what you are lifting out
Check on lift every 5 minutes

43. Decolorizing Procedure
✤ Apply lifting mixture 1/8
inches above scalp and
through the ends
✤ Apply product quickly
✤ Once you see color lightening
in the mid shaft and ends, be
ready to apply remaining mix
to roots
✤ If your end result is in the
blondes, start apply root mix
when color starts lightening
up
✤ If your end result is light
brown to dark blonde wait to
apply root mixture till the
color has left the red orange
stage

44. Decolorizing Process
✤ Results vary based on existing
color history
✤ Results will be individual to
each client
✤ Ability to lift is determined not
only by the formula but by the
clients color history, hair type,
and room temperature
✤ For best results remind your
client that this is a process
that may take more than one
application over a longer
period of time.

45. MIMICTHE BODY
WITHYOURTINT BACK
FORMULATION

46. Skin
The sun destroys the melanin in your skin
Since skin is alive, it can respond to the sun’s damage by producing more melanin.
Now use your formulation to be like skin, your formula adds more pigments

47. Tint Backs = Lifting in Reverse
When hair is lifted pigments are removed in a specific order and amount
When we Tint hair Back to brown, its our job to play nature to ensure results

48. Making Brown
BLUE RED YELLOW

49. Accentuating Left Over Pigments
These left over pigments
can be remaining pigments
or existing pigments.

50. Date

51. Date

52. Date

53. Date

54. First learn those….
Then Experiment…..

55. Modified Tint
FORMULA 1
1 oz - 4.0 Mastey Color
1 oz - 4.6 Mastey Color
2 oz - 4.34 Mastey Color
4 oz - 10 Volume
Application Time: A long time :)
Processing: 45 minutes

56. Modified Tint
FORMULA 1
1 oz - 4.0 Mastey Color
1 oz - 4.6 Mastey Color
2 oz - 4.34 Mastey Color
4 oz - 10 Volume
Application Time: A long time :)
Processing: 45 minutes

57. A Journey to Making Silver
Should be Silver and Blue based on the
amount of 07…
1 part 9.1
2 part 9.1 Instantané
07 Amp
10 Volume

58. Silver Gray + Blue
Jen’s roots were Pre Lightened with Bleach
then the formula was applied

59. Silver Gray + Blue => LT. BROWN
Jamie was not bleached, she was already blonde but had more yellow
tint so it went brown and the light in the room affected the shade

60. When you are experimenting:
You may be right. But you could be wrong.
Make Sure you test it :)
Strand test it :)

61. You are now smart enough
to know...
That you should ask yourself questions
What questions to ask yourself
That there is no perfect solution to every problem
How to find an answer that works for you and your client
based on your own questions

62. THE FINAL (PART 1)
• Pick 3 people
• Get signed model release
form
• Take their before picture
• Explain how you would
complete a total make over
for them.
• Perform makeover
(cut and color)
• Photograph Results
• Make sure to note your
color formulas, color
techniques, and an
explanation of your cut
• We will provide product
replacement

63. SOCIAL MEDIA
• Google My Business Page
• Salon Facebook Page
• Review Mastey Certification Program at:
facebook.com/masteyhaircare
Click the Stars you would like to give us and then write something nice :) about us.
• TestimonialVideo or written about your use of our products, if you like them and why,
and about the color certification program.
• We’ll send more details on each in an email
• Your invited to our Social Media Webinars and a Mastey Advanced Color Seminar at
Mastey in California. Date:TBD (Fall/Winter 2015)

64. PROUD OFYOU!

65. I RESPECTYOU!

66. I AM GRATEFULTOYOU!