Milady nail enhancements ch 27, 28, 29

MILADY
NAIL
ENHANCEMENTS
Nail Tips & Wraps. Acrylics. Gels.

• Nail services have become extremely popular from
Manicures to Enhancements
• Adds extra revenue to your services & salons
• Understanding the variety of Nail Enhancements will
allow you to properly choose the correct option for
your guest
WHY?
THE WHY?

WHY?
AGENDA
AGENDA
WEEK 1
TUESDAY- Nail Wrap supplies to
resin
WEDNESDAY- Fabrics to removal
THURSDAY-Acrylic Chemistry to
supplies
FRIDAY-Mix Ratio to
Supplies/storing
WEEK 2
TUESDAY-Acrylic maintenance to
odorless
WEDNESDAY- UV gel Chemistry to
types
THURSDAY- Supplies to UV/LED
FRIDAY-Hard/Soft gel; REVIEW ALL 3
CHAPTERS

Learn All You Need to Know About Nail Tips
(continues)
NAIL TIPS-
Plastic, pre-molded nail shaped from ABS
For added strength & or length;
Used with an OVERLAY
ACRYLONITRILE BUTADIENE STYRENE:
Plastic, high heat resistant, chemical resistant(acids),
low cost, NOT biodegradable, durable, shiny

Learn All You Need to Know About Nail Tips
(continued)
NAIL TIPS SUPPLIES TUBE
BRUSH
DROP
APPLICATOR
ABRASIVES BUFFER BLOCK
DEHYRDRATORS
TIP CUTTER

Application of Nail Tips
NAIL TIPS
• Many nail tips have a
depression called a WELL
• Serves as the point of
contact with the nail plate
• Important to choose proper
well for YOUR GUESTS
NAIL SHAPE
• Too curved, creates air
bubble, lifts or pushes sides
out
• Too flat will lift off the
natural curve, painful when
glued

NAIL TIPS
• Tips should never cover
more than half the natural
nail plate
• Cover from side wall to side
wall
• When using a tip with a
well, Rock tip on in order to
reduce air bubbles in
adhesive
• Tip is placed at a 45 degree
angle against free edge and
rocked on until Position Stop
is against free edge of
natural nail

NAIL TIPS - Adhesive
• Adhesive = professional term
• Bonding agent to secure nail
tip to natural nail
• Comes in a Tube, Brush on or
a Drop Applicator
• Thick adhesive is a gel based
and requires more drying time
• Thinner viscosity dries around
5 seconds
• When opening nail adhesive ,
point away from your Guests
face

NAIL TIPS
• Use a larger Nail tip & file to tailor
to your guest nail, VS using a too
small tip
• Trim and or Bevel before applying
• Pre-beveled tips = less blending time
• STOP, ROCK & HOLD METHOD-
Rock the tip on, release air pockets,
hold 5-10 seconds
• Contact area will need to be reduced
with a fine to medium abrasive
( blending )
• NO VISIBLE line between tip and
nail
45 degrees

Explore the Uses of Nail Wraps
NAIL WRAPS
• Nail Wrap is any method of securing a
layer of fabric or paper on and around the
nail tip
• Used as an OVER LAY
• Can strengthen natural nail or create nail
extensions
• Secured on to the nail with Nail Wrap
Resin
• 4 Main types of Fabric
• SILK
• LINEN
• FIBERGLASS
• PAPER
Strengthen natural nail
Overlay on
tip
Extension

Supplies • Nail dehydrator
• Tweezers- Keep Natural
Oils OFF FABRIC;
PREVENTS ADHESION
• Tip cutters
• Tip adhesive
• Nail tips
• Block buffer
• Fabric
• Abrasive file
• Fabric scissors
• Plastic sheet- Keep Fabric
on
• Lint-free wipes- Remove
any debris before drying
NAIL WRAP SUPPLIES
• Building resin-
Brush, Gel, Drop
• Activator-
Spray, Brush, Gel

NAIL WRAP- Application
• Before applying Tips, Wraps or any
Enhancement:
• Prepare Natural Nail by removing
shine with a fine abrasive buffer -240
GRIT – FLAT ACROSS THE NAIL
• Cleanse nail and apply Dehydrator
A rough service allows better product
adhesion; Grooves in nail plate allow
product to “sink in”
No oil present on surface; Residue creates
a barrier product sticks to instead of
adhering to nail
ALWAYS END NAIL SERVICES WITH
CUTICLE OIL!!!!
Remove shine &
any dead
nail/skin cells

NAIL WRAP- Application
• Nail Wrap Resin is used to coat & secure fabric
to natural nail & nail tip
• CYANOACRYLATE is a specialized acrylic
monomer that adheres and POLYMERIZES in
seconds
• Moisture sensitive: IMPORTANT that
product stays closed & nail is DRY
• Moisture helps activate the curing process
• Natural nail was enough NATURAL
MOISTURE
ACTIVATOR/ACCELORATOR is a catalyst
that speeds up hardening
Dissipates in 2 min
Too much can cause a heat reaction burning
the nail plate up to 170 degrees!!!!
FOLLOW MANUFACTURERS
DIRECTIONS!

WHY?
REVIEW- TUESDAY
• What are Nail Tips made from? What are some
characteristics of it?
• Professional term for nail glue? Ways it is packaged?
• What removes moisture from the nail plate? Why do
you NEED to use it?
• Why are toe nail clippers not recommended to use?
• What is the depression called in a nail tip?
• What are the 3 types of well? Why is it important to
have different kinds?
• What is the position stop? What angle is the tip
held?
• What are the 3 ways to use a Nail wrap?
• What is Cyanoacrylate?
• The activator is also known as a ? Why do you need
to use?

NAIL WRAP- Fabrics
• Silk, Linen, Fiberglass ( most popular ), Paper
• Cut to cover surface of nail
• Packaged as swatches, on a roll or pre-cut
• Nail Wraps are natural & thin in appearance;
great for a sensitive guest or guests with fragile
nails trying to grow them out especially after
removal of acrylics
• Less likely to cause nail infections
• Lift easily if exposed to water regularly
ROLL
SWATCH
SHEETS
PRE CUT STRIPS
PRE CUT

NAIL WRAP- Fabrics
• SILK
• Thin natural material with a light weave
• Silk is the go to for guests who want their
nails- Just stronger
• Becomes transparent when resin is applied
• Light weight & smooth
• Moldable to shape
• Comparable to gel polish but less
damaging
Silk & Fiberglass mix

NAIL WRAP- Fabrics
• Linen
• Strongest BUT heaviest
• Closely woven heavy material
• “Thick as a bandage”
• Adhesives do not penetrate as well
• Opaque finish- will need a nail color after
• Perfect for the guest who cant or wont wear
a Nail Tip
• Mix Silk & Linen for a Natural French
manicure
• Not common: “old school “

NAIL WRAP- Fabrics
• Fiberglass
• Thin synthetic mesh with a loose weave
• Easy to use & resin penetrates easily-
improving adhesion
• Very strong BUT can see mesh if you look
closely after completed
• Thinner than acrylic
• Moldable to shape
• Better option for the guest that wants
length

NAIL WRAP- Fabrics• Paper
• Temporary nail wraps made from thin paper
• Does not have the strength & durability
• NEEDS RESIN ACCELERATOR
• “End Paper” material
• Late 1800s: tea bags, coffee filters & cigarette papers
were used to strengthen nails
• Not popular today
• Paper nails today: Thin wax paper, tissue paper,
newspaper etc sealed to nail ( usually a pattern paper )

Nail Wrap Maintenance, Repair, and Removal• Maintenance – term used for when
the enhancement needs to be serviced
after two or more weeks from the
initial application
• Uses
– To fill /BACK FILL
– Same steps & products as original
set- only applied to new growth
– To structurally correct the nail-
rebalance, “fix” imbalances in
natural nail plate or natural weak
areas
NAIL WRAP- Maintenance
Cut to fit New Growth

Fabric Wrap Repair
• Stress strip –
fabric cut to 1/8
inch in length and
applied to weak
point
• Repair patch –
piece of fabric cut
to completely cover
a crack or break in
the nail
NAIL WRAP- Maintenance

Fabric Wrap Removal• Wraps must be removed carefully to avoid damage to the nail plate.
• Enhancement is immersed in acetone: 2-3 min increments
• Wait for nail wrap to melt away and gently slide softened wrap off
• Allow nail “ breathe”
• Take about 4-6 months for natural nail to return to original state
• Keep cuticles, hands & nails moisturized afterwards
• Apply strengthener
• Nails will become “harder” after about a week once moisture
evaporates
NAIL WRAP- Removal

WHY?
REVIEW- WEDNESDAY
• How are nail fabrics packaged?
• 1 Pro to fabric and 1 Con to fabric?
• Which fabric becomes clear when resin is
applied?
• Which fabric is strongest but the heaviest?
• Which fabric is strong but you can easily
see it?
• What was used to make paper nails in the
1800s?
• How many weeks in-between services
should you wait for a back fill/rebalance?
• What is a stress strip?
• How do you remove wraps?

Chapter 28
Monomer Liquid &
Polymer Powder Nail
Enhancements

Introduction
Monomer & Polymer- ACRYLIC
Your text here
• These enhancements are known as SCULPTURED NAILS
• Created by combining a liquid with a powder
• Considered a lucrative service
• Can be applied in 4 ways:
• Protective overlay
• Over a nail tip
• Nail extension
• Nail art

Convey the Chemistry of Monomer Liquid and
Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements
• Part of the Methacrylate family
• Monomer means “one unit” (unit being a molecule)
• Polymer means “many units” (many molecules)
• When mixed together, they form a BEAD which then forms long, chain-
like structures that create nail enhancements which can be applied over
the natural nail, a tip, a form, or can be used to sculpt nail art.
(continues)
Chemistry Make up:

Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements
(continues)
Chemistry Make up:
• Liquid MONOMER
mixed with powder
POLYMER
• Attract & Connect
called
POLYMERIZATION
• Numerous chains
connect by CROSS
LINKS
• These cross links
form Grid/Net like
structure creating the
hardened acrylic

• EMA – ethyl methacrylate monomer, which is the
industry standard
• Odorless – has a lower odor than the traditional
monomer
• MMA – methyl methacrylate monomer, which is not
recommended for use on nails and is not legal
according to the state board rules in some states
Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements (continued)
(continues)
Monomer & Polymer- LIQUID
• The Industry standards are ETHYL METHACRYLATE
MONOMER liquid ( EMA ) and ODORLESS MONOMER liquid

EMA- Ethyl Methacrylate Monomer
(continues)
• 70-90% EMA; remaining is MMA
• Larger molecules so it does NOT penetrate
the nail plate
• Flexible
• Created in late 90s to replace MMA
• No allergic reactions
• No burning
• Matches to your natural nails surface
• Nail does NOT need to be roughed up with
a drill
• Easily removed in acetone
• Less odor
• Less health hazards when breathing it in

MMA- Methyl Methacrylate
(continues)
• Not regulated by FDA
• Not legal is most states
• Small molecules that penetrate nail plate and skin
pores
• Creates a ridged & hard nail
• Same ingredient in Dental work ( crowns )
• Same ingredient as plexiglass and bone cement
• Resistant to solvents; needs to be pried off or filed off
with electric file
• Cheap
• Has a pungent almost fruit odor that causes dizziness
• Itchy and burning during or after
• Aggressively filing your nail: MMA does not stick
well to plate like EMA
• Can turn natural nails yellow
• Does cure quicker & is cheaper
• Produces a lot of dust
• When in blood stream, it is METHANOL- linked to
miscarriages

• Polymer powder is made up of POLYMERIZATION,
also known as curing or hardening, a chemical
reaction that creates polymers.
• CHAIN REACTION is creating polymers and is
known as POLYMERIZATION REACTION
• INTIATORS in Powder that are activated by a
CATALYST in liquid that permanently links
molecules together
• INTIATOR is Benzol Peroxide ( BPO )
• CATALYST speeds up reaction so nail can
cure/harden faster
Monomer & Polymer- POWDER

• CATALYST in Liquid
• INITIATOR in Powder
• Initiator makes the
MONOMER move around
• Active Monomer attaches
to Polymer
• Creates chain
• Catalyst in Monomer is
used to speed up that
process so
hardening/curing can
happen quickly
Chemistry Make up:

Specify the Supplies Required for Monomer Liquid
and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements
• Monomer liquid
• Polymer powder
• Nail dehydrator
• Nail primer
(continues)
• Abrasives
• Nail forms
• Nail tips
• Dappen dish
• Monomer liquid and polymer
powder application brush
• Safety eyewear
• Dust masks
• Protective gloves
Monomer & Polymer- SUPPLIES

WHY?
REVIEW- THURSDAY
• Acrylic is also known as what type of nail?
• What are the 4 ways to apply Acrylic?
• Mono means? Poly means?
• Which one is the liquid?
• The attraction between Monomer & Polymer
creates what action?
• What is the industry standard of Monomer
liquid?
• Why is EMA better than MMA?
• What is in Polymer Powder that gets
activated by the Catalyst in the Liquid?
• What is that ingredient?

• The amount of Monomer liquid to Polymer powder creates a bead
• Your MIX RATIO determines the texture of your bead
• ALWAYS FOLLOW MANUFACTURER DIRECTIONS!
– The BPO ( INTIATOR ) amount is designed to fit ratio in liquid
– Wrong ratio can cause nail to not cure properly, be brittle or discolored
(continues)
WET- 2 Monomer to 1
Polymer
DRY- 1 to 1 ratio
MEDIUM- 1 ½ Monomer
to 1 Polymer

and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements• POLYMER POWDER: Most common colors are White, Clear, Natural,
Pink but there is a large variety of colors to choose from
(continues)
• NAIL DEHYDRATOR: Removes all moisture and or oil on nail plate,
prevents lifting

• NAIL PRIMER: Used on natural nail before application to help in adhesion
• There are 2 kinds: ACID BASED & NON ACID/ACID FREE
• Never apply enhancement product over WET PRIMER, causes discoloration
• Apply only to nail, avoid excessive use: irritate the skin, make nail brittle
• Never use Primer with debris floating in it
(continues)
• ACID BASED
– Apply with dotting towards
center of nail
– Stronger Covalent bond
– Primer will spread evenly
– Is corrosive to skin
• NON ACID BASED
– Cover nail with 3 brush strokes
– Weaker Hydrogen bond
– Don’t cut through dirt & oil as
well
– Does not effect skin

• ABRASIVES: Nail files or buffers. The grit refers to how many grits of
sand per square inch. The lower the number the rougher the abrasive:
• Medium is used most for shaping; Fine is used for refining/filing
(continues)
• NAIL FORMS: Placed under free edge & used as a guide to extend nail
enhancement beyond fingertip
COARSE MEDIUM-FINE SHINE/ 3 SIDES
400/1,000/4,000
Single use
Multi use

• DAPPEN DISH: Monomer liquid & Polymer
powder are poured into these containers
– Small containers that help stop evaporation; always
keep closed when not in use
– Empty after EACH GUEST
– Dispose of excess by mixing with powder or soaking
up in paper towel
(continues)
• NAIL BRUSHES: Natural bristle- Kolinsky, Sable or blend of both
– Oval, Round or Square ( # 8 OVAL IS MOST COMMON )
– Synthetic cheap brushes does not pick up enough liquid or release bead
– Middle of brush to shape free edge ( better control )
– Odor less- flat brush because it requires less liquid

• SAFETY EYEWEAR: Safety goggles/glasses;
protects eyes from debris & splashes
– Lenses are cleat polycarbonate , are thinner and
lighter than regular plastic
– 10 times more impact resistant than plastic or glass
lenses
– Can add readers to
(continues)
• DUST MASKS: Worn over nose/mouth to prevent inhalation
– Does not protect against VAPOR

• PROTECTIVE GLOVES: Disposable or Multi-use
– Nitrile is recommended because of high chemical resistance
and protection against bacteria/virus
– Vinyl & latex do not hold up against nail products; tear
easily
(continues)
• STORING AND DISPOSING
– Store in separate covered containers
– Cool, dark area
– Dispose according to local rules/regulations
– Soak up excess liquid with paper towel
– Place in bag & in a metal trash bin
– Clean brushes properly
– DO NOT POUR DOWN THE DRAIN

WHY?
REVIEW- FRIDAY
• What are the 3 mix ratios?
• What does the nail dehydrator do?
• What are the 2 types of Primer?
• Why do you need to use a Primer?
• The grit on an abrasive refers to what?
• What are nail forms?
• Nail tips are made from what type of plastic?
• How do you properly dispose of unused
product?

Maintenance, Crack Repair, and Removal
Monomer & Polymer- Steps
Clean nails File Cuticle work
180 GRIT
nail plate
Clean powder
& debris
Primer &
Dehydrator

Gently roll
powder
Pour liquid in
dappen dish
Absorb liquid
Dip in powder
Form bead
Wipe brush after
each application
Soak up excess

Same length;
180 GRIT
Side wall file
1 direction
Continue Side
wall
Follow curve
280 GRIT
Whole plate
Buff/shine

• Apply bead in 3 zones for an easy natural blend
• Remember to wipe brush before creating new bead
• Allow nail to harden before filing or removing form
• Test nail by gently tapping with back of brush; light clicking sound
NOT A HOLLOW SOUND
Monomer & Polymer- Maintenance

Maintenance, Crack Repair, and Removal• Maintenance helps prevent lifting or cracking.
• Proper maintenance must be performed every 2- 3 weeks.
• Treat area to be fixed or cured the same steps as original set
Monomer & Polymer- Maintenance

Properly Structured Nail Enhancements
• Apex- Arch; Most strength
• Stress area- Grows beyond finger tip
• Smile line- Pink & white meet in French
manicure
• Sidewall
• Nail extension- underside- Thin is most
comfortable; same on each nail
• Thickness – Consistent; not too thick( heavy)
• Natural looking nail should be thin at
sidewalls & free edge
• C-curve- matches natural curve of nail; 35% is
average
Monomer & Polymer-Structure

Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail
Enhancement Removal
• Nippers can damage nail plate
• Soak the enhancements off of the nail using
acetone or the manufacturer’s suggested
removal solution. May take up to 20-30
min
• Check every 2-3 min
• Can warm up acetone by placing bowl on
top of a warm bowl of water
• Remove the enhancement, and complete the
service.
• Plate will appear thinner & flexibility will
be high- within 24 hours nail will regain
rigidness
Monomer & Polymer- Removal

Describe Odorless Monomer Liquid and
Polymer Powder Products
• Not the same chemistry: uses Methoxyethoxy ethyl methacrylate
• Consists of larger molecules & evaporates more slowly
• The slower evaporation allows more oxygen to react creating a
tacky INHIBITION LAYER that needs to be removed after
hardening
• Little to no odor since there is no EMA/MMA
• Dry mix ratio, takes longer to cure
• Use a flat brush; too wet causes skin irritation
ODOR LESS MONOMER & POLYMER

Create Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Art
3D NAIL ART & INLAID DESIGNS

WHY?
REVIEW- TUESDAY
• How many zones is the nail bed split into
when applying your bead?
• How do you test if you nail has correctly
hardened?
• What is the highest point on the nail?
• What is the average % or C curve?
• How long do you soak nails in acetone for
removal?
• Odorless Acrylic creates a tacky layer called
the?
• What is the mixing ratio for Odorless?
• What is the difference between 3D and Inlaid
designs?

• Light cured gel
– Also known as UV and LED gel
– A type of nail enhancement product that hardens when exposed to
a UV or LED light source
• Light cured gel is an increasingly popular method for nail
enhancement services
• Became well known around the early 2000’s
• Great alternative to Acrylics & Wraps
• Least damaging nail enhancement
• Low to no odor
Introduction
Light Cured Gels

Comprehend the Chemistry of Light Cured Gels
Light cured gels rely on ingredients similar to Monomer &
Polymer family; SUBCATEGORY- ACRYLATES
• Urethane- Means a synthetic coating or seal. To protect from heat and
moisture
• Acrylate- In all nail enhancements & polishes; Adhesive based to sculpt
& adhere to nail
• Urethane Acrylate- Original; cures faster; can cause burning
• Urethane Methacrylate- Slower cure ; better for sensitive skin
• High abrasion resistance & DURABLE
• 5-500 molecules VS millions of molecules in Monomer Liquid
• Larger molecules; Less penetration; Less odor
Light Cured Gels
ACRYLIC GEL

Comprehend the Chemistry of Light Cured Gels• Oligomer – a short chain of monomer liquids that is
often thick, sticky, and gel-like and that is not long
enough to be considered a polymer.
• Oligomer : Holds & generates heat
• Main ingredient; gives shine & rigidness
• A chemical within the product, called a photoinitiator
initiates the polymerization reaction.
Light Cured Gels

Comprehend the Chemistry of Light Cured Gels• PHOTOINITIATOR is a chemical that initiates the
POLYMERIZATION REACTION
• Absorb light & convert into energy
– Resin, photo initiator & proper curing bulb cause gel to
cure/harden
– Light source: UV , LED
– Light source activates photo initiator; Molecules move
around freely- photo initiator
Light Cured Gels
OLIGOMER
MONOMERS
PHOTO
INITIATOR

Describe Light Cured Gels• The different light cured gels
– Thin-viscosity gels
– Medium-viscosity gels
– Thick-viscosity gels
– Building or sculpting gels.
• The one-color method – one color of
gel is applied over the entire surface of
the nail
• The two-color method – two colors of
resin are used to overlay the nail
Light Cured Gels

Types of Light Cured Gels
• Bonding gels- Increase adhesion to natural nail plate; may
have slight odor
• Building gels- Thick; build an arch or curve; fiberglass
pieces; good for cracks/breaks; SCULPTING GEL
• Self-leveling gels- Thin; settle & level themselves; used over
an overlay or ontop of a sculpted building gel
• Pigmented gels- Building or self leveling; has color pigment
• Gel polish- thin, pigmented; pot or bottle; in place of lacquer
• Glossing gel- Sealing gel; shine; like a top coat
Light Cured Gels- TYPES

Types of Light Cured Gels• 2 MAIN TYPES
– TRADTIONAL: Creates a tacky, sticky layer
called the INHIBITION LAYER; after curing
– INHIBITION LAYER- Oxygen didn’t allow
curing of top layer; sticky cause Oligomers are
sticky/gel like & Monomers didn’t not adhere;
Can be a normal process OR the light bulb is
wrong/old
– Needs to be removed with alcohol on a lint free
wipe
– TACK FREE: Will discolor polish when curing;
Does not last as long as traditional gel; mostly
seen a top coat

Types of Light Cured Gels
• OPACITY- amount of colored pigment concentration in gel

WHY?
REVIEW- WEDNESDAY
• Gel nails are also called what?
• What subcategory are they apart of?
• What are the 2 types of URETHANE?
• Which is better for sensitive skin?
• What is the chain of monomers that is thick, sticky
and gel like?
• What is a photoinitator? and what does it create?
• What does Viscosity mean?
• Which gel settles itself?
• Which gel is like a top coat or a seal?
• What does the Traditional gel create that needs to be
removed after hardening?
• What does opacity mean?

Light Cured Gels- SUPPLIES
• Light curing gel lamps • Application brushes- small is best
• Primer/bonding gel • Light cured gel • Nail forms/CLEAR

• Nail tips
Light Cured Gels- SUPPLIES
• Nail Adhesive • Nail Dehydrator
• Abrasives • Cleansing Solution • Lint Free Wipes

• Shelf life between 12-36 months
( depends on how well you take care of
them)
• Companies will print on the container the
standard shelf life
• Be sure that lids are on tight and containers
are upright to avoid leakage.
• Gels should be stored in a dark, cool place to
prolong the life of the product. Away from
natural sunlight/UV light. ( Will eventually
cause polish to cure)
• If polish has sat for a while, roll polish for
better consistent application of ingredients
• Use a gel polish thinner if needed
Light Cured Gels- STORING

• How easy would your guest like the polish removed?
• How long does your guest want it to last?
1. Length and hardness: Not as thick as other nail enhancements. Resembles the
natural nail plate thickness; For an extended length, tips can be added as an
enhancement.
2. Nail Health: Gel nail sets are easier to apply and less abrasive on your nail bed.
Nail plate does not need to be aggressively filed prior to application
3. Cost and maintenance: Can change gel polish weekly; Costs less than other
nail enhancements
4. Endurance: Gel nails are less harsh on the cuticles and nail bed; last 2-3.5
weeks on the nails while acrylic nails last a month or longer before they need
refills.
Light Cured Gels- When to Use

• Flat fingernails – thicker
building gel
• Arched or curved
fingernails – self-leveling
gel
• Frequent breaks – gel with
fiberglass
Light Cured Gels- Choosing Proper Material

• If burning occurs- Exothermic Reaction- Too
much product or too strong of a bulb/lamp
• UV bulb emits UV radiation to cure gel nail
enhancements
• Bulbs loose radiation after a few months:
Change 2-3 times a year
• UV lamp is the light unit/device – controls
bulbs to cure
• Lamp number is distance from top-bottom-
side to side; determines cure time
• Comes in 4, 6, 7, 8 9 watt
– 9 is most common
– Wattage measures how much electricity
the bulb consumes
– 36 watt unit uses 4- 9 watt bulbs
CourtesyofLightEleganceNailProducts
Light Cured Gels- Lamps & Bulbs

• LED- Light Emitting Diode
– Cure LED gel products only
– More narrow Wavelength; Higher
concentration
– Cures faster- 15 – 20 sec
– Less energy/ eco friendly
– Bulbs last a life time
– Need an LED Photo Initiator
– Costly investment
– No exposure to UV on skin
– Can be used just as a
BASE COAT prior to color application
CourtesyofLightEleganceNailProducts
• UV
– Cures ALL types of gel polish
– Emits broad UV
wavelengths
– Cures around 2 min
– Uses more energy
– Bulbs need to be replaces
periodically
– More affordable lamp &
products

Specify the Advantages of Light Cured Gel Polish
• Cure rather than dry
• Do not imprint or smudge
while lacquer is drying
• Do not thicken over time
• Last longer in the bottle
• Can be a lucrative service

• Every two weeks
• Use 180-grit abrasive file.
• Remove oils for better
adhesion with alcohol or
recommended cleaner
• File with a lighter touch than
on ML/PP- Softer surface
Light Cured Gels- Maintain & Remove

WHY?
REVIEW- THURSDAY
• What is the shelf life of gel?
• Where should it be stored and why?
• When do you choose gel over other enhancements?
• A flat finger nail needs what type of gel?
• Which gel will provide thickness but levels itself?
• If a guest has frequent breaks what should their gel
have to increase durability?
• How many times a year shiykd you change your
bulbs?
• What is the most common watt?
• What does watt measure?
• Pro to UV/ Pro to LED
• Why is it important to know the difference between
the two?
• How often should you maintain?

• Hard (traditional) UV and LED gels
– cannot be removed with acetone
– must be filed off- CLEAN SURAFE WITH NYLON BRUSH
– good for a BASE or building extension
– Thicker consistency
– Tight compact molecular structure where Acetone can
not penetrate
– More costly
• Soft UV and LED gels
– removed by soaking in acetone
– included gel polish
– in-between polish & hard gel consistency ( medium )
– 5-15 min soak; check every 2-3 min
– scrap with wooden stick
– Costs less
– Elongated molecular structure- creates spaces where
acetone can penetrate
Light Cured Gels- Maintain & Remove

Milady nail enhancements ch 27, 28, 29

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Milady nail enhancements ch 27, 28, 29