chapter21 Haircolor

1. Chapter 21
Haircoloring

2. Learning Objectives
• List the reasons why people color their hair.
• Explain how the hair’s porosity affects haircolor.
• Understand the types of melanin found in hair.
• Define and identify levels and their role in
formulating haircolor.
• Identify primary, secondary, and tertiary colors.
• Know what roles tone and intensity play in
haircolor.
• List and describe the categories of haircolor.
(continues)

3. • Explain the role of hydrogen peroxide in a
haircolor formula.
• Explain the action of hair lighteners.
• List the five key questions to ask when
formulating a haircolor.
• Understand why a patch test is useful in
haircoloring.
• Define what a preliminary strand test is and
why it is used.
Learning Objectives (continued)
(continues)

4. • List and describe the procedure for a virgin
single-process color service.
• Understand the two processes involved in
double-process haircoloring.
• Describe the various forms of hair lightener.
• Understand the purpose and use of toners.
• Name and describe the three most commonly
used methods for highlighting.
Learning Objectives (continued)
(continues)

5. • Know how to properly cover gray hair.
• Know the rules of color correction.
• Know the safety precautions to follow during
the haircolor process.
Learning Objectives (continued)

6. • Nearly all adults and many teens now color their
hair.
• You will probably find that most of your clients,
at some time or another, will want to enhance their
hair color, change their hair color, or cover gray.
• Clients who have their hair colored usually visit
the salon every three to twelve weeks.
• These are the kind of regular guests you want in
your client base.
Introduction

7. Why People Color Their Hair
• Cover up or blend gray hair
• Enhance existing hair color
• Create a fashion statement or statement of
self-expression
• Correct unwanted tones
• Accentuate a particular haircut

8. Hair color vs. Haircolor
• Hair color – Refers to the natural color of the hair.
• Haircolor – a professional, industry-coined term
referring to products and services for artificially
coloring the hair.

9. Review Hair Facts
• The structure of the hair and the
desired results determine which
haircolor to use.
• Cuticle – outermost layer that
contributes
20 percent of overall strength
• Cortex – middle layer that
contributes 80 percent of overall
strength
• Melanin determines the hair color

10. Texture
• Hair texture is the diameter of
an individual hair strand
• Coarse – large hair-strand
diameter loosely grouped
processes slow
• Medium – medium hair-strand
diameter
• Fine small hair-strand diameter
tightly grouped (processes fast)

11. Density
• Number of hairs per square inch
• Refers to hair thickness

12. Porosity
• The ability of the hair to absorb moisture
• Porous hair accepts haircolor faster and
permits a darker color than less-porous hair.

13. Types of Porosity
• Low porosity – tight cuticle, resistant hair
• Average porosity – cuticle slightly raised; average
processing time
• High porosity – cuticle lifted; quicker processing
time
• Test for porosity – take several hair strands from
different areas of the head: front hairline, temple,
crown and nape.

14. Identify Natural Hair Color and Tone
• Melanin in the cortex
• Eumelanin – gives black and brown color
• Pheomelanin – gives blond and red colors
• Mixed melanin – contains both eumelanin and
pheomelanin
• Contributing pigment – also known as
undertone

15. Level System
• Unit of measurement
• Identifies lightness or darkness
• Arranged on scale of 1 to 10
–1 being darkest
–10 being lightest
Courtesy
of
P&G
Salon
Professional.
Clairol
Professional.

16. Level System
• Level is the unit of measurement used to identify
the lightness or darkness of a color. Level is the
saturation, density or concentration of color.
• The level system is a system that colorist use to
determine the lightness or darkness of a hair
color.

17. Identifying Natural Level
• Take a ½-inch square
section in the crown area.
• Match swatches.
• Compare strand to
determine level.
• Your most powerful
valuable tool is the color
wheel.

18. Gray Hair
• The loss of pigment increases with age.
• Most people retain a certain percentage of
pigmented hair.
• Gray hair can be solid or blended and requires
special attention during haircoloring.

19. Determining Percentage of Gray Hair
©
NinaMalyna/
Shutterstock.com
©
Budimir
Jevtic/
Shutterstock.com
©
Bine/Shutterstock
.com

20. Color Theory
• Color is the property of objects that depends on
the light they reflect. It is perceived as red,
green, blue, or other shades.
• Base color – the predominant tone of a color.

21. The Law of Color
• A system for understanding color relationships.
When combining colors, you will always get the
same result from the same combination.
–Equal parts of red and blue make violet.
–Equal parts of blue and yellow make green.
–Equal parts of red and yellow make orange.

22. Primary Colors

23. Primary Colors
• Are pure fundamental colors (red, yellow and blue) that cannot
be created by combining other colors.
• Colors with a predominance of blue are cool colors, whereas
colors with a predominance of red/or yellow are warm colors.
• Addition to coolness, blue can also bring depth or darkness to
any color.
• In traditional color theory, when all three primary colors are
present in equal proportions the resulting color is black or dark
muddy gray depending on the saturation of the pigment.

24. Secondary Colors

25. Secondary Colors
• Secondary color is obtained by mixing equal
parts of two primary colors.

26. Tertiary Colors

27. Tertiary Colors
• Tertiary color is an intermediate color achieved
by mixing a secondary color and its neighboring
primary color on the color wheel in equal parts.

28. Complementary Colors
• Complementary colors are primary and secondary
color positioned directly opposite each other on the
color wheel.
• Blue and orange
• Red and green
• Yellow and violet

29. Tone or Hue of Color
• Tone or hue – balance of color
• Can be described as warm, cool are netural.
• Because warm tones reflect more light, they
can look lighter that their natural color.
• Cool tones absorb more light, therefore thay
can look deeper than their actual tone.
• Intensity – strength of color tone, it can
be described as soft, medium , and
strong.

30. Base Color
• Base color is the predominant tone of a color.
• Each color is identified by a number and a letter.
• The number indicates the level and the letter
indicates the tone. For example: 6G is level
6–Dark Blond with a G-Gold Base.
• Neutral base colors are often used to cover gray
hair.

31. Part 2 Understand the Types of Haircolor
• Non-oxidative Haircolor are temporary and
semi-permnent (traditional).
• Oxidative haircolor are demi-permanent
(deposit only) and permanent (lift and deposit).
• All of these products, except temporary color,
require a patch test.
• All permanent haircolor products and
lighteners contain both a developer, or
oxidizing agent, and an alkalizing ingredient.

32. Review of Haircolor Classifications

33. Temporary Haircolor
• Does not penetrate cuticle
layer
• Coats hair shaft
• Neutralizes unwanted
tones
• Available in variety of
colors and products

34. Semi-permanent
• Lasts through several
shampoos
• Penetrates hair shaft;
stains
cuticle layer
• Fades with each shampoo
• Nonoxidation
• Used out of bottle; requires
patch test

35. Demi-permanent Haircolor
• Deposits color; does not lift deposit only color,
is formulated to deposit but not to lighten
color.
• Less alkaline than permanent colors
• Ideal for:
– Introducing haircolor services
– Blending or covering gray
– Refresh faded color
– Color corrections

36. Permanent Haircolor
• Used to match and lighten hair, and to cover
gray hair
• Contains ammonia, oxidative tints, and
peroxide
• They require a patch test 24 to 48 hours prior
to tints.
• Contains aniline derivatives (dye precursors)
• Combine with H2O2 to form larger molecules
• Removes natural pigment while adding artificial
color
• Best to cover gray

37. Permanent Haircolor Action

38. Natural Haircolor
• Known as vegetable haircolor, made from leaves
or bark of plants.
• No lightening
• Limited shade range
• Professional products cannot be applied over

39. Metallic Haircolors
• Also known as gradual haircolors or
progressive haircolor.
• Contain metal salts that change hair
color gradually by progressive
buildup and exposure to air,
creating a dull, metallic appearance

40. Hydrogen Peroxide Developers
• Developer – also called oxidizing agents or
catalysts.
• pH between 2.5 and 4.5
• H2O2 most common
• Volume measures the concentration and
strength of hydrogen peroxide.
• Lower volume, less lift
• Higher volume, greater lift

41. Hydrogen Peroxide Volume and Uses

42. Lighteners
• Chemicals compounds that lighten hair by dispersing,
dissolving, and decolorizing the natural hair pigment.
• Oxidation, a process by which oxygen is released, and
it occurs within the cortex of the hair shaft.
• To achieve a very light pale blond, it is recommended
that you use a double-process application, also known
as two-step coloring, which is a coloring technique
requiring two separate procedures in which the hair is
pre-lightened before the depositing color is applied.

43. The Decolorizing Process
(continues)

44. During this process of decolorizing, natural hair color
can go through as many a 10 stages.
Decolorizing the hair’s natural melanin pigment allows
the colorist to create the exact degree of contributing
pigment needed for the final result.
Toners can also be used after dimensional haircolor
services. After a highlight service is completed using a
lightener, you can tone the hair to create a softer shade
of blonde.
The Decolorizing Process (continued)

45. Toners
• Applied to lightest degree of contributing
pigment
• Never lift past pale yellow
• Hair will become mushy.
• Hair will lose its elasticity.
• Will be harsh and brittle when dry
• Often suffers breakage to pale yellow and
neutralizing the unwanted undertone with a
toner.

46. Part 3 Conduct an Effective Haircolor Consultation
• Most critical part of the color service.
• Book 15 minutes of additional time.
• Have client fill out client intake form.
• Conduct in proper lighting.
• Look at client directly.
• Recommend two options.
• Be honest.
(continues)

47. • Gain approval from the client.
• Start the haircolor service.
• Educate regarding home care, products, and
rebooking.
• Finish completing the client’s haircolor service
record card.
Conduct an Effective Haircolor Consultation
(continued)

48. Haircolor Service Record Card

49. Release Statement

50. Release Statement
• A release statement is used by schools and many
salons when providing chemical services. Its
purpose is to explain to clients that there is a risk
involved in any chemical service and that if the
client’s hair is in questionable condition, it may
not withstand the requested chemical treatment.

51. Formulate Haircolor
Five Basic Questions
1.What is the natural level, and does it include gray
hair?
2.What is the level and tone of the previously
colored hair?
3.What is the client’s desired level and tone?
4.Are contributing pigments (undertones) to be
revealed?
5.What colors should be mixed to get the desired
result?

52. Deposit and Lifting Ability
• The combination of the shade selected and the
volume of hydrogen peroxide determines the
deposit and lifting ability of a haircolor.

53. Mixing Permanent Haircolors
• Applicator bottle
• Bottle must be large enough for color and developer.
• Mix according to manufacturer’s directions.
• Brush and bowl
• Use nonmetallic bowl.
• Pour developer first, then product.
• blend thoroughly.

54. Patch Test
• A test for identifying a possible allergy in a client.
• The color used for the patch test must be the
same as the color that will be used for the
haircolor service.
• The U.S. Food, and Cosmetic Act requires a
patch test be given 24 to 48 hours prior to each
application of an aniline Haircolor.
• The patch test, also known as predisposition test.

55. Apply Haircolor
• To ensure successful results when performing
haircoloring services, the colorist must follow a
prescribed procedure and never leave the client
unattended while the haircolor is processing.

56. Preliminary Strand Test
• Determines how the hair will react to the color
formula and how long the formula should be left
on the hair.
• The strand test is performed after the client is
prepared for the coloring service.

57. Temporary Colors
• There are many methods of applying a temporary
color, depending on the product used.
• You may apply colored gels, mousses, foams, or
sprays at your workstation after your client has
been shampooed.
• Always use and apply these color products
according to the manufacturer’s directions.

58. Semipermanent Haircolors
• Semipermanent colors only deposit color and do
not lighten color.
• Remember that color applied on top of existing
color always creates a deeper color and alters
the tone.
• The porosity of the hair will determine how well
these products saturate the hair.
• Traditional semipermanent colors can build up
on the hair ends with repeated applications.

59. Demipermanent Haircolor
• The application is similar to traditional
semipermanent color.
• Follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for
application and processing time for the product
you have selected.
• Gray hair presents special challenges when
formulating demipermanent haircolor.
• Hair that has previously received a color service
will have a greater degree of porosity.

60. Single-Process Permanent Color
• Virgin application
• Retouch application
• Single-process color
retouch
• A glaze, a non-
ammonia color that
adds shine and tone to
the hair.

61. Applying Color to New Growth and Faded Ends
• Overlapping can cause breakage and a line of
demarcation, which is the visible line separating
colored hair from new growth.
• Process color according to your analysis and
strand test results.
• Bringing permanent haircolor through the ends to
refresh faded color can cause unnecessary
damage to the hair.

62. Double-Process Haircolor
• Hair lightening – bleaching or
decolorizing
• Double-process high-lift coloring
– two step blonding
• Pre-lightening – applied the
same as hair lightening

63. Show How to Use Lighteners
Three Forms of Lighteners
• Oil
– On-the-scalp lightener
• Cream
– On-the-scalp lightener
• Powder
– Off-the-scalp lightener

64. On-the-Scalp Lighteners
• Thickeners give more control during application.
• Activators, also known as boosters, protinators, or
accelerations, are powdered persulfate salts
added to haircolor to increase its lightening ability.

65. Powdered Off-the-Scalp Lighteners
• Called quick lighteners
• Not applied to scalp
• Strong enough for blonding
• Contain oxygen-releasing boosters
• Dry out more quickly than other lighteners
• Expand and spread out during processing

66. Time Factors
• Darker hair has more melanin and takes
longer to lighten.
• Porosity influences timing.
• Tone influences timing.
• Strength of product influences timing.
• Heat leads to quicker lightening.

67. Preliminary Strand Test
• Watch the strand carefully for its reaction to the
lightening mixture, especially noting any
discoloration or breakage.
• Reconditioning may be required prior to toning.
• If the test shows that the hair is not light enough,
increase the strength of the mixture and/or
increase the processing time.
• If the hair strand is too light, decrease the strength
of the mixture and/or decrease the processing
time.

68. Lightener Retouch
• Lighten new growth first.
• Proceed as for virgin
lightener, except apply
product to new growth only.
• A cream lightener is
generally used for a
lightener retouch.
• Overlapping can cause
severe breakage and lines
of demarcation.

69. Express How to Use Toners
• Contributing pigment
• Read manufacturer literature
• Underlightened hair

70. Toner Application
• Your speed and accuracy are
both important factors in the
application and will determine,
to a large extent, whether you
get good color results.
• The procedure for applying low-
or nonperoxide toners may
vary. Check with your instructor
for directions.

71. Create Special Effects Haircoloring Techniques
• Highlighting involves coloring some of the hair
strands lighter than the natural color to add a varity
of lighter shades and the illusion of depth.
• Color some strands lighter than natural color.
• Adds variety of lighter shades and illusion of depth.
• Does not contrast strongly with natural color.
• Light colors cause the light to advance toward the
eye, to appear larger, and to make details more
visible.

72. Reverse Highlighting
• Called lowlighting
• Some strands colored darker than natural
• Receding, smaller appearance of dark areas

73. Cap Technique
• Cap technique – involves pulling clean strands
of hair through a perforated cap with a thin
plastic or metal hook.
• The number of strands pulled through the cap
determines the degree of highlighting achieved.
Photography
by
Tom
Carson.

74. Foil Technique
• Foil technique – involves coloring selected
strands by slicing or weaving out sections,
placing them on foil or plastic wrap, applying
lightener or permanent haircolor, and sealing
them in the wrap.

75. • Involves making a straight
part at scalp, positioning a
narrow ⅛-inch section of hair
over foil, and applying
lightener or color
Slicing

76. • Involves selecting strands that are picked up
using a zigzag motion of the comb
Weaving

77. Baliage Technique
• Involves painting product onto clean, styled hair
• Also known as the free-form technique

78. Toning Highlighted and Dimensionally Colored Hair
• Decolorize to desired level.
• Consider porosity and pigmentation differences
from strand to strand.
• Avoid affecting untreated hair.
• Use nonoxidative toner.
• Use traditional semipermanent color.
• Use no-lift, deposit-only demipermanent color that
will not cause additional lightening.

79. Highlighting Shampoos
• Used when slight change in color is desired
• Used when hair processes rapidly
• Used to highlight natural color in a single
application
• Patch test required

80. Special Challenges in Haircolor and
Corrective Solutions
• Gray, white, and salt-and-pepper hair all have
characteristics that present unique coloring
challenges.

81. Yellowed Hair
• Smoking
• Medication
• Sun exposure
• Some styling aids

82. Formulating for Gray Hair
• Level 8 or lighter may not give complete
coverage.
• Level 7 or darker can be used to create pastel
and blond tones.
• For 80 to 100 percent natural gray, blond is
more flattering than darker tones.
• When coloring salt-and-pepper to darker, color
on color will make darker shade.
(continues)

83. Formulating for Gray Hair (continued)

84. Other Considerations When Formulating
for Gray Hair
• Client personality
• Personal preferences
• Amount and location of gray hair

85. Tips for Achieving Gray Coverage
• Use 20 volume developer.
• Process color for full 45 minutes.
• Add neutral to formula.
• If 25 percent gray, use 25 percent neutral.
• If 50 percent gray, use 50 percent neutral.
• If 75 percent gray, use 75 percent neutral.

86. Pre-Softening
• Apply pre-softener to resistant area.
• Process 15 minutes.
• Refer to manufacturer’s directions.
• Blot pre-softener off with towel.
• Apply final color formula.
• Process according to instructions.

87. Rules for Effective Color Correction
• Do not panic.
• Determine true problem.
• Determine cause of problem.
• Develop a solution.
• Take one step at a time.
• Never guarantee results.
• Always strand-test for accuracy.

88. Damaged Hair
Characteristics
• Rough texture
• Overporous condition
• Brittle and dry to touch
• Susceptible to breakage
• No elasticity
• Spongy and matted when wet
• Color fading or absorbing too rapidly

89. Damaged Hair Treatments
• Use penetrating conditioner.
• Normalize pH with finishing rinse.
• Postpone further chemical services.
• Perform between-service conditioning.
• Recommend retail products for home maintenance.

90. Fillers
• Conditioner fillers – used to recondition
damaged, overly porous hair
• Color fillers – used to equalize porosity and
deposit color in one application

91. Color Fillers
• Deposit color to faded ends.
• Help hair hold color.
• Prevent streaking and dull appearance.
• Prevent off-color results.
• Produce more uniform color.
• Produce more uniform color when coloring hair
back to its natural color.

92. Selecting Correct Color Filler
• Select to replace missing primary color.
• Apply directly to hair or mix with haircolor and
apply to damaged ends.

93. Haircolor Tips for Redheads
• Use red-orange base to create warm, coppery reds.
• Use red-violet for hot, fiery reds.
• Use no-lift, deposit-only color to refresh.
• If gray is present, add ½ to 1 oz of a natural color.
• Refresh with a soap cap to brighten color.

94. Haircolor Tips for Brunettes
• Use cool blue base to avoid brassy tones.
• Do not lighten more than two levels above
natural color to avoid brassy tones.
• Add 1 oz of natural color to cover gray.
• Natural highlights should be deep or caramel
colored.

95. Haircolor Tips for Blonds
• Watch out for underlying, unwanted warm tones
when lightening from brown to blond.
• Use level 7 or darker to cover gray.
• Get light pale blond by double-processing.
• If using high-lift blonds to only 5 levels, results
may be warm or brassy.
• If highlights become too blond, add lowlights for
more natural color.

96. Common Haircolor Solutions
• Refresh faded color – apply a demipermanent
haircolor within two levels of formula and process
for up to 10 minutes.
• Green cast – remove buildup and use color to
neutralize unwanted color.
• Overall color is too light – apply a no-lift, deposit-
only color that is one to two levels darker.
• Overall color is too dark – apply a haircolor
remover for 10 minutes and check.

97. Restoring Blond to Natural Haircolor
• If level 6, soften new growth with level 6 violet base
and 20 volume developer. Process 20 minutes.
• If level 7, soften new growth with level 8 light
blond-violet base and 20 volume developer.
Process 20 minutes.
(continues)

98. • Apply no-lift, deposit-only glaze with 1 oz level 8 light
neutral blond and 1 oz level 9 very light blond red-
orange base. Process process 20 minutes.
• Do not apply to new growth.
• Mix a no-lift, deposit-only glaze with 1½ oz level 6
dark neutral blond and ½ oz level 4 light brown gold
base.
Restoring Blond to Natural Haircolor (continued)
(continues)

99. • If level 8 light violet blond at base, use 1½ oz
level 8 light neutral blond with ½ oz level 6 dark
golden blond.
• Apply chosen formula, starting where most
overlightened.
• Work color through all hair.
• Process up to 20 minutes, checking every
5 minutes, and then reevaluate.
Restoring Blond to Natural Haircolor (continued)

100. Know Haircoloring Safety Precautions
• Administer patch test.
• Do not apply if abrasions are present.
• Do not apply if metallic or compound tint is present.
• Do not brush hair prior to service.
• Read and follow all manufacturer’s directions.
(continues)

101. • Use disinfected applicators and tools.
• Drape properly.
• Perform strand test.
• Use glass or plastic bowl or plastic bottle.
• Do not mix haircolor until you are ready to use it.
• Wear protective gloves.
Know Haircoloring Safety Precautions (continued)
(continues)

102. • Do not let color get in eyes.
• Do not overlap product during
retouch.
• Use mild, acid-balanced
shampoo.
• Always wash hands before and
after serving each client.
Know Haircoloring Safety Precautions (continued)
©
Subbotina
Anna/Shutterstock.com

103. General information
• Patch test select a test area, behind the ear or on
the inside of the elbow are good choices.
• Single process retouch starting in the nape and
working your eay up to the crown, apply color
product to new growth area using ¼-inch (0.6
centimeter) horizontal subsections.

104. Summary and Review
• Haircoloring offers you the opportunity to exercise
your creative talents and bring great pleasure to
your clients.
• Enjoy your work, but most of all, enjoy and
appreciate learning now and in the future.
Haircolor techniques, fashions, and formulations
are constantly changing.
• Professionals who specialize in haircolor must
constantly learn new techniques to keep up with
those changes.