This document provides information about scalp care, shampooing, and conditioning. It discusses the importance of the shampoo service and outlines the agenda for the training, which includes topics like scalp treatments, hair brushing, pH, water chemistry, and conditioning. The document emphasizes that proper scalp care and shampoo selection are important to address clients' individual hair and scalp needs and set the mood for the entire hair service. It provides details on scalp massages, different scalp conditions, types of shampoo, and the chemistry involved in shampoo formulation.

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SCALP CARE,
SHAMPOOING &
CONDITIONING
Scalp care. Chemistry. Products.

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AGENDA
TUESDAY- Why? Scalp care & scalp treatments
WEDNESDAY- Hair brushing; Scalp analysis; Shampoo selection
THURSDAY-pH & Types of water
FRIDAY- Experience/retail; Conditioning

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• One of the most important
experiences that a stylist provides is
the shampoo
• It is the first time you are truly
touching & impacting your guest
• The shampoo sets the mood for the
entire service: great shampoo
experience can outweigh the service
itself
• 3 Processes: Scalp care, massage &
shampoo/condition

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
THE WHY?
• The shampoo service is the first
opportunity to reinforce your position as
a professional by attending to specific &
individual needs
• Being able to examine, identify, and
address hair and scalp conditions allows
you to choose correct product or a
referral to see a doctor
• Thorough knowledge of hair care
products allows you to determine hair
care products, as well chemical services
& a at home routine

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
SCALP CARE & MASSAGE
• The two basic requirements for a healthy scalp are cleanliness
and stimulation.
• Treatments should be given with a continuous, even motion
that stimulates scalp and relaxes client.

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• Given before shampoo
• Given during shampoo
• Relaxation or treatment- only
difference is the products used
• Knowing the muscles, the
location of blood vessels, and
the nerve points of the scalp/
neck will help guide you to those
areas that benefit from massage
movements.
• Contraindications- medical
conditions like High blood
pressure or diabetes that can
prohibit the service
• Be aware of pressure used based
off scalp sensitivity
SCALP TREAMENTS

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SCALP TREAMENTS
NORMAL DRY OILY
• Purpose: maintain scalp
& hair health/cleanliness
• Performed after a full
scalp examination
• Purpose: natural oil
deficient
• Contains moisturizing
& emollients
• Avoid strong soaps;
greasy product, lotions,
high alcohol
• Use a scalp steamer
• Purpose: flush excess
sebum out with
gentle
pressing/squeezing
• Caused from
overactive sebaceous
glands
• Over shampooing

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SCALP TREAMENTS
• Cause: a fungus called malassezia
• Purpose: to suppress the growth of
Malassezia and loosen scalp scales
-ANTI-DANDRUFF

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REVIEW- TUESDAY
• What is the most important experience we provide?
• How does the shampoo set the mood for the entire service?
• What is the 3 step process?
• What are some things to look for ( NOT ASK FOR ) during a consultation?
• What are the 2 requirements for a healthy scalp?
• What are the benefits to a scalp treatment?
• What fungus causes dandruff?

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
HAIRBRUSHING
Correct hair brushing:
• Stimulates the blood circulation to
the scalp Helps remove dust, dirt,
and hair-spray/product buildup
• Gives hair added shine.
• Is included with every shampoo and
scalp treatment!!!
• Allows the stylist to examine the
scalp for abrasions and infections
*Rotate brush by turning wrist slightly and
sweeping bristles full length of hair shaft EXCEPTIONS:
• Avoid before Chemicals
• Avoid if scalp is irritated
• Avoid if abrasion or parasites are
present

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HAIRBRUSHES
• Natural bristles: most highly
recommended to clean and add
luster to the hair
• Nylon bristles: shiny, smooth,
and more suitable for hairstyling
BOTH

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SCALP ANAYLIS- Things to look for
• Dry, dehydrated hair
• Thinning of the hair
• Excessive hair in sink
• Dry, tight scalp
• Oily scalp
• Abnormal flaking on scalp
• Open wounds or scalp
irritations
• Scalp disorders or disease
• Tick or lice infestation

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SHAMPOO SELECTION
• As a professional, you must become skilled at selecting
shampoos that support the health of the hair, whether the hair
is natural, color-treated, fine and limp, or coarse and wiry.
• Product knowledge is critical (read labels).

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SELECTION CONSIDERATIONS
• Hair type: dry, oily, normal, chemically treated- Remember you can
have an oily scalp & dry hair!!
• Hair condition: overprocessed, chemically treated, damaged by harsh
products or improper care, exposure to elements; virgin hair
• Home maintenance – EDUCATE your guest
• pH-balanced shampoos

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REVIEW- WEDNESDAY
• Why do we need to brush our hair?
• Why is brushing the hair a good opportunity for us as stylist?
• When should you NOT brush?
• What are the 2 types of brushes discussed in this chapter?
• What are some things to look for during a scalp analysis?
• What is product knowledge important?
• What are some examples of hair types?

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
POTENTIAL HYDROGEN -pH
• The small p represents a quantity.
• The capital H represents the hydrogen ion.
• The amount of hydrogen in a solution is measured on a logarithmic
scale ranging from 1 to 14.
Acid: 0 to 6.9 pH
Neutral: 7.0 pH
Alkaline: 7.1 to 14 pH

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9
Clean Maniac
HighLift
Hardwear16
Sculpting
spray
4
Anti Snap
Ringlet
RebelTame
7
5.50
All
soft
Color
Extend
pH SCALE
LOGARITHMIC- Measures the ACIDITY & ALKALINITY
We alter the pH with every service; IMPORTANT to understand the strength of a
product to maintain integrity of the hair
pH balanced shampoo- 4.5-5.5
ACIDIC ALKALINEBeach envy
Air Dry

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CHEMISTRY OF WATER- Purification
Sedimentation Filtration
Chlorine added
Boiling & Distilling
212*

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CHEMISTRY OF WATER
Soft water- rain water or
chemically softened
Hard water- well water; high
amounts of minerals:
• Copper oxidizes green
( statue of liberty)
• Iron oxidizes red/orange
( rust )
• Calcium build up-
prohibits moisture; clogs
follicle, brittle, hair loss
• Magnesium helps
regulate calcium BUT too
much prohibits lather

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
THE CHEMISTRY TO SHAMPOO
Understanding the ingredients allows you to choose the right shampoo
for your guest hair type, texture & scalp
Ingredients are listed from most abundant to least:
Water is main ingredient. Surfactant ( detergent ) is the second
• Water- Deionized/Purified
• Surfactant Molecule (surface active agent)
– Hydrophilic end
– Lipophilic end

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THE CHEMISTRY OF SHAMPOO
1. The hydrophilic head
attracts water
2. The lipophilic tail
attracts oil.
3. Creates a push/pull that
causes the oils, dirt, and
deposits to roll up into
little balls
4. That are lifted off in the
water and rinsed from
the hair
 Other common additives: Moisturizer- adds moisture to dry hair or promote the
retention of moisture, oil, protein, preservative, foam enhancer, and perfume.

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TYPES OF SHAMPOOS
• pH-balanced- 4.5-5.5
The list of ingredients is your key to determining :
• Shine and manageability
• Treat a scalp or hair condition
• Prepare the hair for a chemical treatment
• Conditioning- Protein & Biotin
• Medicated- Not color treated • Clarifying- Chelating

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• Balancing- Oily hair AND scalp
TYPES OF SHAMPOOS CONTINUED
• Dry or powder- Cleansing
powder/absorbs oil
• Color-enhancing- Temp color rinse
• For hairpieces and wigs-
Wig cleansing solution

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REVIEW- THURSDAY
• What does pH stand for?
• What does logarithmic mean?
• What is the pH of pH balanced shampoo?
• What are the ways to purify water?
• What are the 2 types of water?
• What is the most abundant ingredient in shampoo?
• The detergent is a ______________molecule

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
A GREAT SHAMPOO EXPIERENCE
• Adjust for any special accommodations ( special needs, elderly,
child )
• Massage for client preference.
• Adjust water temperature for client choice.
• Don’t wet client’s face.
• Double-check nape area.
• Do not drench towel around neck.
• Blot hair, not face.
• Give relaxation massage.
Even if they are watching you

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SHAMPOOING & RETAILING
• Use the shampoo time to better establish your professional
relationship with the client and promote quality products for
at-home use.
• During the shampoo give clients information about what you
are doing and why.

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UNDERSTANDING CONDITIONERS
• Deposit protein and moisturizer
• Restore strength and give body
• Protect against breakage
• Types
– Rinse-out
– Treatment or repair
– Leave-in

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FORMULATION-
Seal cuticle; not a cure- just a “band aid”
• Silicone – Reflects light, speed up dry time, creates barrier
• Moisture-binding humectants- Absorb moisture in air
• Emollients- soften & moisturize
• Synthetic polymers- thickening agent ( less runny then shampoo )
• Proteins- Penetrate cortex

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OTHER CONDITIONING AGENTS
• Spray-on thermal protectors
• Scalp conditioners
• Medicated scalp lotions
• Scalp astringent lotions

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DEEP CONDITIONING TREATMENTS
• Also known as masks or
conditioning packs
• Mixtures of concentrated
protein in a heavy cream
base of a moisturizer
• Penetrate the cuticle layer
• Used when an equal degree
of moisturizing and protein
is required

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DRAPING
• Client must be properly draped for each service.
• Shampoo (wet) draping: two terry towels used, one under cape
and one over; replaced with neck strip and cape
• Chemical-service draping: two terry towels used, one under
cape and one over, which remain during service

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3 PART PROCEDURE-
EVERY GUEST. EVERY TIME
• Pre-service: preparation- Sanitary Maintenance Area
• Service: practical service on client
• Post-service: caring for client after service and clean-up
S.M.A.
SERVICE CLEAN
UP

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
REVIEW-FRIDAY
• What makes for a good shampoo experience?
• What is something NOT to do during a shampoo?
• What is a tip for selling retail?
• What are the 3 types of conditioner?
• Which conditioner can penetrate the cortex?
• What is the 3 part procedure?