Freshman and Sophomore class

1. Hair Structure. Color Theory. Color Classifications. Formulating
HAIRCOLOR

2. AGENDA KEY POINTS
• Why?
• Hair structure
• Color Categories
• Lightener
• Color Wheel
• Level System
• Formulating
• Consultation
• Basic color- Virgin application
& Regrowth
• Highlights- Foiling techniques
• Balayage
• Color Melt
• Toners
Theory Hands-On

3. • Cover up or blend grey hair
• Change
• Enhance an existing hair color
• Create a fashion statement
• Correct unwanted tones
• Accentuate a haircut
Remember to discuss WHY
someone wants to change their
hair color
WHY DO PEOPLE COLOR THEIR HAIR?

4. FACTORS THAT EFFECT HAIR COLOR- Hair Structure
All chemical changes; Protein; Melanin
Effects choice of color strength; How well color takes/lasts
Does not effect hair color

5. COLOR CATEGORIES- Oxidative & Non Oxidative
• Temporary
• Direct Dye
• Semi-permanent
• Permanent

6. COLOR CATEGORIES- Temporary
• NON oxidative
• Large color molecule
• Does not alter structure of
hair
• Coats/Stains the hair shaft
• Lasts shampoo to shampoo
• Examples: rinses, color hair
spray, color mascara, hair
chalk
• Longevity depends on
porosity

7. COLOR CATEGORIES- Direct Dye
• A type of Semi-permanent
• NON oxidative
• Large color molecule
• Does not alter structure of hair
• Coats/Stains the hair shaft
• No developer: what you see is
what you get
• Fantasy Colors
• Lasts SEVERAL shampoos
• Responds best on Pre-lightened
hair
• Longevity depends on porosity

8. COLOR CATEGORIES- Semi-Permanent
• NON oxidative
• Medium color molecule
• Deposit only
• Does not alter structure of hair
( cortex )
• Penetrates hair shaft; stains
cuticle
• Fantasy Colors
• Correct unwanted tones
• Lasts SEVERAL shampoos
• Responds best on Pre-lightened
hair
• Patch test
• Longevity depends of porosity

9. COLOR CATEGORIES- Demi-Permanent
• Oxidative
• Needs developer
• Med-Small color molecule
• Partially developed dye
molecule- PREoxidative
• Deposit only- NO lifting
• Low or no ammonia
• Grey blending/color refresh
• Little to no damage
• Great for changes that aren’t
permanent
• Adds shine
• Toner
• Filler
• Requires patch test

10. COLOR CATEGORIES- Permanent
• Oxidative
• Needs developer
• Smallest color molecule
• Colorless dye precursor
• Opens cuticle
• Chemical change ( alters cortex )
• Permanently changes hair color
• LIFTS & DEPOSITS
• Grey Coverage
• Removes natural pigment &
replaces it with artificial pigment
• Lasts until new growth
• Can give up to 4 levels of lift
• Only lifts on virgin hair

11. LIGHTENERS
• Color CAN NOT remove color
• Bleach- Professional term:
Lightener
• Remove hair color ( natural
melanin )
• Remove artificial haircolor
• Lighten & brighten
• Ideal to use for more than 4 levels
of lift on virgin hair
• On and off scalp applications
• Decolorize/Disperse melanin &
pigment
• Exposes underlying pigment
• Opens cuticle
• Over processing; No over lapping
• Do NOT lift past pale yellow

12. DEVELOPERS
3% 6% 9% 12%
DEVELOPER LEVELS OF LIFT
10 VOLUME ( 3% ) Deposit; up to 1 level
20 VOLUME ( 6% ) Up to 2 levels of lift
30 VOLUME ( 9%) Up to 3 levels of lift
40 VOLUME ( 12%) Up to 4 levels of lift
Developers and Color is LEVELS OF LIFT
Developers and Lightener is SPEED
• Do you want to walk, jog, run or sprint?
• 10 will get you there, 40 will get you there
• But always maintain theintegrity ofthe hair

13. HAIR COLOR LEVELS
• Hair color ranges from 1-10 or 1-12
• Level 1 being the darkest; Level 12 being the
lightest
• Each level has underlying tones that are
exposed when formulating
• All the underlying tones & levels live on the
Color Wheel

14. HAIR COLOR LEVELS ON COLOR WHEEL
Contributing Pigment results
from MELANIN in the cortex

15. THE COLOR WHEEL & LAW OF COLOR- Never changes
PRIMARY SECONDARY TERTIARY
CAN NOT be made;
makes up every color
Mixing Primary in EQUAL parts Mixing neighboring Primary &
Secondary colors

16. THE COLOR WHEEL & LAW OF COLOR- Never changes
NEUTRAL
COMPLEMENTARY COLORS:
Opposite each other on Color Wheel
N.E.I
• NEUTRALIZE: Complementary
color
• ENHANCE: Color on either side
of level chosen
• INTENSIFY: Add more of what
occurs naturally at that level
CENTER is NEUTRAL:
Balance of warm and cool
mixture of all primary colors

17. THE COLOR WHEEL & CONTRIBUTING PIGMENT
FACTORS WHEN FORMULATING:
• It matters what level YOU ARE
LIFTING TO not the level you
started with
• Deciding whether to N.E.I. your
exposed contributing pigment
• Is their hair previously colored
• Do they have any grey ?

18. GREY HAIR GUIDELINES
• Grey hair requires special attention
• The lack of pigment/depth can cause hair to appear
lighter if not formulated correctly
• Adding a NEUTRAL ( N ) allows desired color to
“anchor” in the hair
• ALL 3 PRIMARY colors need to be present for grey
hair color formula to appear balanced & saturated
• If RYB are not present, the true tonality of desired
color will appear lighter & brighter:
(red based color with no Neutral = pinkish tones)
% of GREY % of NEUTRAL ( N )
25% GREY .25 or ¼ oz N
50% GREY .50 or ½ oz N
75% GREY .75 or ¾ oz N
100% GREY 1 oz N

19. FORMULATION STEPS
NEUTRAL
1. Natural Level
2. Desired Level
3. Canvas Level
(what's on the hair now)
4. Dominant Pigment
AT DESIRED
LEVEL
5. Percentage of grey
• Decide on Color Line/choice
• Do you have to remove any
artificial color
• What volume of developer
• Covering grey

20. REPIGMENTATION & TONERS
TONER
• N.E.I – Neutralize. Enhance. Intensify
• Used to correct unwanted tones
• When going darker
• Seal the cuticle
• Add shine
• Works best on Pre-lightened hair
• Only tone at the Level you are at
• Semi/Demi permanent

21. REPIGMENTATION & TONERS
REPIGMENTATION/FILLER
• When going 4 or more shades darker
• “ FILL” with missing PRIMARY colors
• Allows for a uniform, consistent end result
• Prevents greenish dull tones when going back
to natural color
• Evens out porosity
• REPIGMENT 2 levels LIGHTER then the
desired end result
• Apply to pre-lightened areas, process, rinse
• Apply desired shade after repigmentation has
been applied
• Semi/Demi permanent

22. HAIRCOLOR TECHNIQUES
BASIC COLOR
ROOT TOUCH UP
HIGHLIGHTS
OMBRE
BALAYAGE
COLOR-MELT

24. HAIRCOLOR TECHNIQUES- Basic Color
• 4 sections
• Horizontal subsections in back
panels
• Subsections are ¼ in to ½ in;
Depends on hair density
• Horizontal subsections in front
panels
• Virgin Application: Zone 2,
Zone 1 then Zone 3
• Retouch: Zone 1; outline
sections first

25. HAIRCOLOR TECHNIQUES- Highlights
• 5 sections
• Back panels are Diagonal
back subsections
• Front panels are Horizontal
subsections
• Mohawk panel is Vertical
subsections
• 1/8 in subsections
• Perimeter foils
• Section of hair left out
inbetween foils
• Weave
• Slice

26. HAIRCOLOR TECHNIQUES- Highlights
BOLD WEAVESLICE
• Always WEAVE the
hairline/perimeter
• Fine Weave- natural & sunkissed
• Babylight- Micro-weave
• Bold Weave- Skip weave;
brighter
• Slice- bold, streaky
• Chunky- Back to back slices, NO
hair in between
FINE WEAVE

27. BLEED MARKS, SLIDING, LARGE SUBSECTIONS!!!

28. HAIRCOLOR TECHNIQUES- Specialty Color
OMBREBALAYAGE COLOR-MELT
• Hand painting
• V and W
• Natural haircolor
left out
• Surface paint
• Sweeping motion
• All of the ends are
colored/lightened
• Seamless blend
• Gradation of color
• Tease for diffusion
• Blending of
colors
• Same color
family
• Pre-lighten for
best results
• Colormelt toners
• “Scissor motion
with fingers

29. REDKEN HAIRCOLOR GUIDELINES
• COVER FUSION
• COLOR FUSION
• COLOR GELS
• SHADES EQ
• CITY BEATS

30. REDKEN HAIRCOLOR GUIDELINES- Permanent
• Low-ammonia color cream
• Lifts and deposits
• Conditioning agents add strength and manageability to gray
hair
• Completely covers up to 100% gray hair
• 1:1 mixing ratio
• Best results with 20 Volume; 2 Levels
• Standard processing 35 min.
• Resistant grey 45 min.
• No heat
• Neutral is added in
• Provides a massive palette of color
• Intermixable with Coverfusion
• Multi-dimensional
• Dye technology that ensures long-lasting color
Features new Color Fusion Carmin’R red/violet shades
• For dimensional grey coverage: Add N or Gb
• For 50% grey or more just add an N
• 1:1 mixing ratio
• Can use 10-40 Volume
• Standard processing 35 min.
• Resistant grey 45 min.
• No heat
Oxidative
Intermixable
Cream based

31. REDKEN HAIRCOLOR GUIDELINES- Permanent
Oxidative
Intermixable
Liquid based
• Grey coverage
• UV-stable
• Wheat proteins & avocado oil
• Over 50 shades
• Clear & fashion colors
• 1:1 mixing ratio
• N, NW, WG CB, RB can be used alone to cover
grey
• Other shades will need an N
• No heat
• Opaque finish
• Deposit only 20 min processing time
• Grey coverage 30 min
• Can use 10-40 volumes
• Fashion gels- 45 min, 40 vol; not mixable with
Colorgels

32. REDKEN HAIRCOLOR GUIDELINES- Demi-Permanent
Oxidative
Intermixable
Liquid based
Clear shine
• No ammonia
• Acidic
• 1:1 ratio
• Own developer
• No lift
• Glaze; Refresh; Correct
• Standard time is 20 min
• Can tone more quickly
• Grey blending
• Sheer coverage
• Dilution
• Amino Acids
• Silicone

33. REDKEN HAIRCOLOR GUIDELINES- Semi-Permanent
Non-
Oxidative
Intermixable
Cream based
Clear
• No ammonia
• Acidic
• No developer
• Conditioning; seals cuticle
• 14 intermixable shades
• Lasts up to 12 shampoos
• Even canvas
• Pre-lighten for best results
• 20 min processing time
• No heat
• Color remover needed

34. CONSULTATION

35. CONSULTATION • D.E.P.T.H. – Density. Elasticity. Texture. Hair History ( most important )
• Proper draping
• Proper lighting
• Have visuals
• Communicate on ALL possible outcomes
• BE HONEST!
• Lifestyle: Career, hobbies etc.
• Maintenance required/upkeep
• How they style at home
• Proper home care products & steps
• Grey coverage VS Grey blending
• What color line & developer
• Can their hair handle the service?
• Color staining on the skin
• Proper way to shampoo color services
• REMEMEMBER to record formula & or any challenges
• COMMUNICATE. COMMUNICATE. COMMUNICATE!!

36. Hair Structure. Color Theory. Color Classifications. Formulating
HAIRCOLOR
What did you learn?