Milady chapter 16 Haircutting
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This document provides an overview of haircutting techniques and tools. It begins by identifying key reference points on the head and defining lines, sections, and angles used in haircutting. It then explains the importance of client consultation and lists various haircutting tools. The document outlines three basic haircutting techniques - one length, graduation, and layering cuts. It provides examples of different texturizing techniques and safety tips for haircutting. Overall, the document serves as a guide for the foundational skills, principles, and techniques of haircutting.
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Milady chapter 16 Haircutting
- 1. MILADY HAIRCUTTING Reference Points. Principles. Tools. Techniques .
- 2. OBJECTIVES • Identify the reference points on the head and understand their role in haircutting. • Define lines, sections, elevations, and guidelines. • List the factors involved in a successful client consultation. • Explain the uses of the various tools of haircutting. • Name three things you can do to ensure good posture and body position while cutting hair.
- 3. • Perform the four basic haircuts. • List the multiple ways to section and cut the bang (fringe) area. • Discuss and explain three different texturizing techniques performed with shears. • Explain a clipper cut. • Identify the uses of a trimmer.
- 5. • Haircutting is a basic, foundational skill that all other hair design is built • An art form that allows you to shape, design and cut hair into endless designs • Foundational skills set you up to understand and perform the principles of haircutting • Understanding reference points & bone structure allow for customizable cuts for your guest • Having a thorough understanding of the rules allows you to break them, building confidence in your self and with your guest • Great revenue in haircutting; becoming skilled instills trust between you and your guest WHY STUDY HAIRCUTTING?
- 6. REFERENCE POINTS- Areas on the head where it changes shape • Bone structure changes from person to person • Hair reacts/responds differently at the reference points • CROWN- Growth patterns • SIDES- Change in hairline & size/shape of ears • FRONT/NAPE- Density changes, shape of skull changes • Apex, Parietal Ridge, Top, Sides, Front, Back, 4 Corners, Occipital, Nape
- 7. LINES, SECTIONS & ANGLES- Determines shape & technique 2 types of line in haircutting Lines are a thin continuous mark Extends for infinity 3 types of STRAIGHT LINE Determines what technique you will use : 1 length, graduation, layer
- 8. • LINE- Horizontal • 1 Length, 0 degrees, Blunt cut • Creates width • Creates weight line • Draws eye side to side • Maintains same direction • Ideal for fine hair & or low density LINES, SECTIONS & ANGLES- Determines shape & technique
- 9. • LINE- Vertical • Layers, graduation • Removes weight • Creates length and or height • Draws eye up & down; elongates shape & face • Maintains same direction • Ideal for dense,coarse hair, high density, round face; creates narrow shape LINES, SECTIONS & ANGLES- Determines shape & technique
- 10. • LINE- Diagonal • Mostly seen in Graduation; 1 lengths, layers • Builds weight • Create emphasis/ focal point • Draws eye to certain area of style • Maintains same direction • Ideal for all hair types, low & medium density • Minimize or enhance facial shape LINES, SECTIONS & ANGLES- Determines shape & technique
- 11. • LINE- Curved • Used to soften and or blend • Can be full or partial circle • Move in a circular pattern • Face frame, Fringe, Blending layers LINES, SECTIONS & ANGLES- Determines shape & technique
- 12. ELEVATION- Determines Technique • Angle the hair is held from the head • Elevation decides technique: 1Length ( Blunt ), Layers, Graduation • Describes in degrees • Between 0 and 180 • Below 90 builds weight • Above 90 removes weight • Be aware curl pattern & how much hair shrinks as it dries • Elevation – angle at which hair is held from head • Graduation – layers described in degrees • Shrinkage – hair contracts as it dries
- 15. ELEVATION- Determines Technique CUTTING LINE- Angle at which fingers are held when cutting Angle/Elevation used in your technique Finger position, Finger angle, Cutting angle, Section angle BUILDS WEIGHT REMOVES WEIGHT BUILDS WEIGHT/EMPHASIS
- 16. HAND POSTIONS FOR CUTTING ANGLES/ S.A.A -LAYERS -1 LENGTH (BLUNT); GRADUATIONS -GRADUATION; LAYERS
- 17. GUIDELINES- STATIONARY- All hair come to same point; over direction can be used TRAVELING/MOBILE/MOVEABLE- Small section of guide moves to each section through out the cut Below Parietal Ridge is EXTERIOR/ PERIMETER; Above is INTERIOR
- 18. OVERDIRECTION- Forward & Backward • Combing hair away from natural falling position • Graduations, layers & 1 lengths ( Blunt ) • Backwards: maintains length in the front • Forwards: maintains length in the back
- 20. HAIRCUTTING CONSULTATION- Communication builds wealth • D.E.P.T.H • Scalp analysis & bone structure • Growth patterns • Speak to them, not the mirror • When was their last cut • How often do they get it cut • How much effort do they put in at home • How often are they willing to maintain • What products do they use at home • Lifestyle: career, hobbies etc • Classic or Trendy • Face shape • Can their desired result even be achieved with their texture & density • Be honest!! • COMMUNICATE density. elasticity. porosity. texture. hair history
- 21. HAIRCUTTING CONSULTATION- Communication builds wealth • Instead of asking “ What do you have in mind today?” ASK “What do you want to achieve with your hair?” • Ask what they like about their hair now…What has been done in the past that they DID NOT like…..What has been done that they DID like • Are you – The stylist- hesitant about the goal? Be honest • Is length a priority? Have guest describe & show you her desired length • Communicate with guest if they are making a BIG change- make sure it is not an emotional decision • WATCH their body language and eyes say/react • REPEAT back what they said
- 22. 1. A game plan 2. A technique and end shape 3. What tools you will be using 4. What products you will be using to shampoo, condition and style • Use proper draping • REMEMBER to always record what you did & Products you used/recommended!! • Decide on: HAIRCUTTING CONSULTATION- Communication builds wealth
- 23. What can effect your decision- Face & Head Shape
- 24. What can effect your decision? WAVE PATTERN TEXTURE DENSITY LOW MEDIUM HIGH
- 25. What can effect your decision? Fine VS Coarse Finger Angle Growth Pattern
- 26. Your foundation begins here- Perimeter/ One length. Tension, Elevation, HAIRLINE, What's in the way? ( ears, shoulders, chair)
- 27. Show Proper use of Haircutting Tools • Haircutting and texturizing shears • Straight razor Razor comb Straight razor Can have guard ( like feather razor) BLUNT/HEAVY OR CHOPPY LINE WISPY/SOFT LINE
- 28. HAIRCUTTING TOOLS 1. Clippers 2. Trimmers/Edgers 3. Sectioning clips 4. Wide-tooth comb 5. Tail comb 6. Barber comb 7. Cutting/Styling comb 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.
- 29. All About Shears • Steel- Japan, Germany, United States; 440 A ( 56) to 440 C; Stainless steel- Carbon content VS iron; not able to rust • Titanium added VS coating • Hitachi – highest quality steel • V(g) 10- Japanese high quality- added titanium – Gauging hardness is known as THE ROCKWELL HARDNESS: 56/57 is ideal; 63 too hard/brittle • Cast shears- Mold; more fragile, cheaper, mass produced • Forged shears-Heated & hammered/pressed; more durable, longer lasting
- 30. Parts of a Shear • Cutting edge • Pivot • Adjustment knob • Finger tang • Ring-finger hole • Thumb hole Convex blade gives smoothest cut; sharpest edge, requires less force to cut; Beveled edge- more dull, hear cutting, cheap
- 31. SHEARMAINTENENCE • Shears need to be cleaned after every guest • Wipe with towel to remove debris & hair • Wipe with rubbing alcohol • Lubricate with shear oil- at least weekly • Have sharpened when needed • Use Clippercide for clippers • Lubricate clippers
- 32. Left-Handed vs. Right-Handed • There is a difference between a right-handed and a left-handed shear. Simply taking a right-handed shear and turning it over does not make it appropriate for a left-handed cutter, because the blades of the shear need to be reversed. Left blade is on top
- 33. GRIPS
- 34. Regular shears, thumb is vertical, wrist may be arched Swivel thumb is a natural position( like shaking hands ) Horizontal cutting action; allows for less stress, fatigue SWIVEL
- 35. Purchasing Shears • Know how the shear was manufactured. • Ask about the steel quality. • Decide on the right blade edge. • Decide on the best handle design for you. • Be sure of fit.
- 36. • Hold shears in hand. • Swivel thumb shears. • Learn about service agreement. • Ask about warranty. • Analyze cost. • Determine how many needed. Purchasing Shears
- 37. Fitting the Shear Correctly • Fitting ring finger • Fitting thumb • Relaxing grip • Correct finger position and alignment
- 38. Holding Your Tools • Holding shears
- 39. HOLDING YOUR SHEARS • Holding shears properly Moving THUMB ONLY Palming shears; Holding comb
- 40. Holding the Razor • Method A – Open razor so handle is higher than shank. – Place thumb on thumb grip. – Place index, middle, and ring fingers on shank. – Place little finger in tang. – Position razor on top of subsection.
- 41. • Method B – Open razor so handle and shank form a straight line. – Place thumb on grip and wrap fingers around handle. Holding the Razor
- 42. Handling the Comb and Tension • Both the wide and fine teeth of the comb are regularly used when cutting hair. • The wide teeth are used for combing and parting hair, while the finer teeth comb the section before cutting. • Tension is the amount of pressure applied when combing and holding a subsection.
- 43. Understand Proper Posture and Body Position • Position the client. – Sitting straight – Legs not crossed • Center your weight. – Knees slightly bent, not locked – Bend one knee to lean slightly • Stand in front of section being cut.
- 44. HAND POSTIONS FOR CUTTING ANGLES/ S.A.A -LAYERS -1 LENGTH (BLUNT); GRADUATIONS -GRADUATION; LAYERS
- 45. TECHNIQUES Your technique is determined by your elevation; how you want your end result to look: 3 Techniques but endless possibilities!!!!! • 1 Length, Layers, Graduation 4 Basic cuts that fall within those 3 techniques: • 0 degrees • 45 degrees • 90 degrees • 180 degrees 0 Degrees; 1 LENGTH GRADUATION LAYERS
- 46. Blunt haircut • Also known as a one-length haircut. • Hair comes to a single hanging level, forming a weight line. Cut Hair using Basic Haircutting Techniques
- 47. TECHNIQUES- 1 LENGTH • Also known as BLUNT and 0 Degrees • All hair falls to the same point • NO ELEVATION • Stationary guide • Can use Overdirection • Section angle is parallel to the floor • Creates width & volume • Makes fine hair appear thicker • Draws eye side to side • Weight line is at the perimeter • 3 basic 1 lengths: square, round & triangle ( diagonal )
- 48. Graduated Haircut • Build up of weight. • Caused by cutting the hair with tension, low to medium elevation, or overdirection. • The ends of the hair appear to be stacked.
- 49. TECHNIQUES- GRADUATION • Also known as Stacked, Wedge, Pageboy • Standard elevation is 45 degrees • Over direction is used throughout the haircut • Creates volume and emphasis/focal point • Weight line is where “stack” forms • Can be stationary or traveling guide • Below occipital is “tapered” • Graduation can live anywhere between 1 degree & 45 degrees
- 50. Layered Haircut • The hair is cut at higher elevations, usually 90 degrees. • Layered haircuts generally have less weight than graduated haircuts. • In a layered haircut, the ends appear farther apart.
- 51. TECHNIQUES- 180 Degrees • Also known as “Long Layers” or Shag • 180 Degree elevation • All subsections are OVERDIRECTED to top ( apex ) • Subtle movement in hair style • Reduces weight but can give body • Let length “fall out” • Check for “Corners”/ Blending points • Be aware of parietal ridge, density at hairline & fringe area
- 52. TECHNIQUES- 90 Degrees • Also known at “Uniform layers” • 90 Degree elevation • Traveling guide • Subsections are cut with round of the head • Adds volume on top • Reduces weight/ taper sides & below Occipital
- 53. HAIRCUTTING SAFETY • Palm the shears- prevent cutting yourself, your guest or accidently cutting hair • Do not cut past Second Knuckle- Tension changes • Take care around the ears- skin is thinner • Adjust tension of shears • Use razor guard • Dispose of razor blades properly • Blood spill kit- add extra gloves & ziplock bags
- 54. HAIRCUTTING TIPS • Clean partings: control, consistency • Lines & sections • Crown & nape/ hairline • Around the ears • Tension/ Shrinking • Head position • Moisture • Guideline • Cross check • Use the mirror • Check balance • Stand in front of you
- 55. • Shrinks more than straight hair- sometimes over 2 inches • Minimal tension • Wide tooth comb • Naturally graduates itself • Expands more than straight hair • May need to be styled straight before cutting CURLY HAIR TIPS
- 56. Cutting the Bangs • The bang or fringe area includes the hair that lies between the two front corners. • Be sure the hair is either damp or completely dry. • Do not use tension, allow for the natural lift of the hair.
- 57. • Gives a softer appearance than a shear cut. • The razor is a great option when working with medium hair textures. • When working with a razor, the ends are cut at an angle and the line is not blunt. • This produces softer shapes with more visible separation, or a feathered effect, on the ends. • Guide above fingers. • Avoid using on fine, coarse, wiry, curly or damaged hair. • Always use a guard. • Always use a new blade. • Keep hair wet. • Hold razor at an angle; never force. RAZOR CUTTING/ TEXTURIZING
- 58. Slide Cutting • Used to cut or thin hair. • Blends shorter hair to longer. • Useful in texturizing. • Only on wet hair.
- 59. Scissor-Over-Comb • Hair held in place with comb. • Shear tips remove length. • Method used to create short tapers. • Works best on dry hair. • Lift hair with comb; comb acts as guide. (continues)
- 60. • Do not hold hair between fingers. • Shears and comb move up head together. • Strive for continual motion. Scissor-Over-Comb
- 61. Texturizing with Shears • Point-cutting and notching (continues)
- 62. Texturizing with Shears Point-cutting and notching (continues)
- 63. • Free-hand notching • Effilating or slithering • Slicing • Carving • Carving the ends Texturizing with Shears
- 64. • Effilating or slithering Texturizing with Shears
- 65. Texturizing with Shears • Slicing
- 66. Texturizing with Shears • Carving
- 67. Texturizing with the Razor • Removing weight • Free-hand slicing at midshaft
- 68. Texturizing with Thinning Shears and Razor • Remove bulk or weight. – Section as for haircut. – Comb subsection from head. – Cut 4 to 5 inches from scalp. – Stay farther from scalp for coarse hair. • Remove weight from ends. (continues)
- 69. Texturizing with the Razor
- 70. • Thinning shears-over-comb • Other thinning shears techniques • Free-hand slicing with razor • Razor-over-comb • Razor rotation Texturizing with Thinning Shears and Razor
- 71. Effectively Use Clippers and Trimmers • Electric or battery-operated tools that cut the hair by using two moving blades held in place by a metal plate with teeth. • Mainly used for cutting shorter haircuts and can be used to create a taper.
- 73. Clipper-Over-Comb • Stand in front of the section. • Comb placement. • Hold the comb stationary. • Stop to cut.
- 75. Trimming Facial Hair • Using tool-over-comb method • Cutting against comb • Using length guard • Brow and ear hair
- 76. 1. What are reference points and what is their function? 2. What are lines, sections, elevations, and guidelines? 3. What are important considerations to discuss with a client during a haircutting consultation? Chapter Review Questions
- 77. 4. What are a razor, haircutting shears, styling or cutting comb, and texturizing shears used for? 5. Name three steps to ensuring good posture and body position while cutting hair. 6. Name and describe four basic types of haircuts. Chapter Review Questions
- 78. 7. What is another name for bangs? When should you avoid cutting bangs? Name five basic types of bangs. 8. Name and describe at least three different texturizing techniques performed with shears. 9. What is a clipper cut? 10. How is a trimmer used? Chapter Review Questions
Editor's Notes
- WHY STUDY HAIRCUTTING? Haircutting is the basic foundational skill upon which all other hair design is built. Being able to rely on your haircutting skills and techniques when creating a haircut is what will build confidence, trust, and loyalty between a cosmetologist and his or her clients. The ability to duplicate an existing haircut or create a new haircut from a photo will build a stronger professional relationship between stylist and client. A good haircut that is easy to style and maintain will make clients happy with their experience and will build repeat services. Studying the fundamentals will allow you to understand advanced haircutting techniques. Specializing in haircutting will increase your career opportunities and profits as a hairstylist.
- SHOW PROPER USE OF HAIRCUTTING TOOLS Haircutting shears, also known as scissors, are mainly used to cut blunt or straight lines in hair. They may also be used to slide cut, point cut, or to implement other texturizing techniques (discussed later in this chapter). Texturizing shears are mainly used to remove bulk from the hair. They are sometimes referred to as thinning shears, tapering shears, or notching shears. Many types of texturizing shears are used today, with varying amounts of teeth in the blades. A general rule of thumb is that the more teeth in the shear, the less hair is removed per cut. Notching shears are usually designed to remove more hair, with larger teeth set farther apart Straight razors or feather blades are mainly used when a softer effect on the ends of the hair is desired. Razors can be used to create an entire haircut, to thin hair out, or to texturize in certain areas. They come in different shapes and sizes, and with or without guards
- ALL ABOUT SHEARS One of the most important tools in your career Steel shears All professional haircutting shears are made of steel. Three countries are primarily responsible for manufacturing the steel used to make professional shears: Japan, Germany, and the United States. Hardness The hardness of the steel determines if the shear can hold a hard edge for an extended period of time. Gauge The gauge is called the Rockwell hardness and should be at least 56 or 57. If higher than 63, the shear will be too hard and brittle to work with. Forged versus cast shears Professional shears are made in one of two ways; they are either cast or forged. Cast shears Cast shears are made by a process whereby molten steel is poured into a mold and cooled. Forged shears Forged shears are made by a process of working metal to a finished shaped by hammering or pressing. The metal is heated to over 2,100 degrees. After the hammering or pressing (shaping) is complete, the metal is cooled in water. The resulting metal is much denser and harder than cast metal.
- PARTS OF A SHEAR Cutting edge is the part of the blade that does the cutting. The pivot and the adjustment area are the parts that make the shears cut. The adjustment knob pulls blades together at the correct tension. The finger tang is the contact point for the pinky finger; it allows for more control and a more relaxed grip. The ring finger hole is where you place the ring finger. The thumb hole is placed on the thumb just over the cuticle.
- LEFT-HANDED VS. RIGHT-HANDED Professionals must use shears designed for use by their dominant hand.
- PURCHASING SHEARS Know how the shear was manufactured. Forged shears are more sound, last longer, and cost more. Ask about the steel quality Look for a 440-A steel or higher. Decide on the right blade edge. A full convex edge will give the smoothest cut with the sharpest edge possible. Decide on the best handle design for you. Shears will have one of three types of handle grips and you will need to decide which one is best for you. Opposing grip. This forces the thumb underneath the ring finger and creates stress and pressure on the nerves and tendons of the hand. Offset grip. This moves the thumb forward so it is resting below the ring and middle finger. Full offset or crane grip. This is the most anatomically correct handle design. It positions the thumb grip under the index finger and releases pressure and stress put on the nerves and tendons of the hand and thumb. Be sure the shears fit properly. Since you will be working with your shears almost constantly, consider purchasing a shear that comes with a finger-fitting system so that the shear can be custom fitted to the exact size of your ring finger and thumb diameter. A proper fit will ensure maximum performance, comfort, and control.
- PURCHASING SHEARS (continued) Hold the shears in your hands. Since purchasing a shear is a very personal thing, you need to feel shears in your hand before you buy them. When you are ready to purchase your shears, select a vendor that has plenty of shear samples for you to try and a representative who will allow you all the time you need to make the right choice. Swivel thumb shear. A popular option, the swivel shear provides great comfort and control. The swivel shear allows you to lower your shoulder and elbow and straighten the wrist while cutting, for a more relaxed working posture Ask about the service agreement. Can the company service them in a timely and convenient manner? Ask about the warranty. Since every company offers a different warranty for their shears, make sure you know what the warranty period is and exactly what the warranty covers before you buy the shears. Analyze the cost of the shears. The cost of cast shears should not exceed $200. A high quality, forged shear should cost between $250 and $350. Determine how many are needed. Two cutting shears and one blending shear are recommended.
- FITTING THE SHEAR CORRECTLY Custom-fitted shears Buying and using ergonomically correct and custom-fitted shears can help reduce musculoskeletal disorders. Fitting the ring finger The hole rests between the first and second knuckle with only a bit of extra space around the finger. Fitting the thumb The hole rests slightly over the cuticle area of thumb. Relaxing your grip A relaxed grip allows you to cut without any thumb pressure. Correct finger position and alignment This gives correct nerve and tendon alignment in the hand. Find a handle design that cradles your middle finger.
- HOLDING YOUR TOOLS A proper hold gives you the most control and the best results when cutting hair. A proper hold helps you avoid muscle strain in your hands, arms, neck, and back. Holding shears Open your dominant hand and place your ring finger in the finger grip of the still blade and your little finger in the finger brace (tang). Place your thumb in the finger grip of the moving blade. Practice opening and closing them. Concentrate on moving your thumb only.
- HOLDING THE RAZOR Method A Open the razor so that the handle is higher than the shank. Place thumb on thumb grip. Place index, middle, and ring fingers on shank. Place the little finger in the tang, underneath the handle. When cutting a subsection, position the razor on top of the subsection, the part facing you, for maximum control.
- HOLDING THE RAZOR (continued) Method B Open the razor until the handle and shank form a straight line. Place the thumb on the grip and wrap the fingers around the handle.
- HANDLING THE COMB AND TENSION Both the wide and fine teeth of the comb are regularly used when cutting hair. The wide teeth are used for combing and parting hair, while the finer teeth comb the section before cutting. The finer teeth provide more tension and are useful when cutting around the ears, when dealing with difficult hairlines, and when cutting curly hair. You should plan on spending some time practicing how to turn the comb in your hand while palming the shears. Tension Tension is the amount of pressure applied when combing and holding a subsection. Tension is created by stretching or pulling the subsection. Tension ranges from minimum to maximum. You control tension with your fingers when you hold the subsection of hair between them. Consistent tension is important for constant, even results in a haircut. Maximum tension is used on straight hair when you want precise lines. Less tension is used with curly or wavy hair, less tension is better because a lot of tension will result in the hair shrinking even more than usual as it dries. Minimum or no tension should be used around the ears and on hairlines with strong growth patterns.
- UNDERSTAND PROPER POSTURE AND BODY POSITION Posture is how you stand and sit. Body position is how you hold your body when cutting hair. Good posture and body position will help avoid back problems in the future to ensure better haircutting results. Position the client Make sure that your client is sitting up straight and that his or her legs are not crossed. Remember, you can move the client by turning the chair or raising/lowering the chair—whichever gives you the option of keeping your body in the same place—or by angling the client’s chair so you can see what you are doing in the mirror. Center your weight When standing, keep your knees slightly bent rather than locked. Instead of bending at the waist, try bending one knee if you need to lean slightly one way or the other. When sitting, keep both feet on the floor. Work in front of your section When cutting hair, a general rule of thumb is to stand or sit directly in front of the area you are cutting. By doing this, you keep your body weight centered and you will automatically find yourself moving around the head during a haircut.
- CUT HAIR USING BASIC HAIRCUTTING TECHNIQUES The art of haircutting is made up of variations on four basic haircuts: blunt, graduated, layered, and long-layered. An understanding of these basic haircuts is essential before you can begin experimenting with other cuts and effects. Blunt Haircut A blunt haircut also known as known as a one-length haircut; all the hair comes to a single hanging level, forming a weight line. A weight line is a visual line in the haircut where the ends of the hair hang together. The blunt cut is also referred to as a zero-elevation cut or no-elevation cut because it has no elevation or overdirection. It is cut with a stationary guide. The cutting line can be horizontal, diagonal, or rounded. Blunt haircuts are excellent for finer and thinner hair types because all the hair is cut to one length, therefore making it appear thicker. Note: All lesson information and instructor support materials for Chapter 16, Procedures 16–1, 16–2, 16–3, 16–4, and 16–5 and pages 382–388 from the core text, can be found in Lesson Plan 16.1 and 16.2.
- GRADUATED HAIRCUT A graduated haircut is a slow or immediate build up of weight; this is caused by cutting the hair with tension, low to medium elevation, or overdirection. The most common elevation is 45 degrees. In a graduated haircut, there is a visual buildup of weight in a given area. The ends of the hair appear to be stacked.
- LAYERED HAIRCUT An layered haircut is an effect achieved by cutting the hair with elevation or overdirection. The hair is cut at higher elevations, usually 90 degrees. Layered haircuts generally have less weight than graduated haircuts. In a layered haircut, the ends appear farther apart. Layers Layers create movement and volume in the hair by releasing weight. A layered haircut can be created with a traveling guide, a stationary guide, or both.
- CUTTING THE BANGS (FRINGE) The bang or fringe area includes the hair that lies between the two front corners, or approximately between the outer corners of the eyes (figure 16–96). When cutting the bangs or fringe, be sure the hair is either damp or completely dry. Also, when combing and preparing to cut bangs and/or fringe do not use tension, allow for the natural lift of the hair. Natural distribution is how hair is moved over the head, when locating the bang area. There are five basic types of bangs (fringe): Asymmetric bang Side swept bang Versatile bang Short textured bang Square bang.
- SLIDE CUTTING Slide cutting is a method of cutting or layering the hair in which the fingers and shears glide along the edge of the hair to remove length. Rather than opening and closing the shears, you keep them partially open as you slide along the edge of the section. This technique should only be performed on wet hair with very sharp shears.
- SCISSOR-OVER-COMB Scissor over comb, also known as shear-over-comb, is a barbering technique that has crossed over. Stand or sit directly in front of the section you are working on. Place the comb, teeth first, into the hairline and turn the comb so that the teeth are angled away from the head. With the still blade of the shears parallel to the spine of the comb, begin moving the comb up the head, continually opening and closing the thumb blade smoothly and quickly. Angle the comb farther away from the head as you reach the area you are blending to avoid cutting into the length (weight).
- TEXTURIZING WITH SHEARS Texturizing is the process of removing excess bulk without shortening the length. It can also be used to cut for effect within the hair length, causing wispy or spiky results. The term texturize should not be confused with hair texture, which is the diameter of the hair strand itself. Point-cutting is performed on the ends of the hair using the tips, or points, of the shears to create a broken edge. Can be done on wet or dry hair. Hold the hair 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) from ends. Point the tips into the ends with your palm facing away from you. A more vertical shears angle removes less hair. The more diagonal the shears angle, the more hair is removed and the chunkier the effect. Notching is another version of point cutting. Notching is more aggressive and creates a chunkier effect. Notching is done toward the ends.
- TEXTURIZING WITH SHEARS Texturizing is the process of removing excess bulk without shortening the length. It can also be used to cut for effect within the hair length, causing wispy or spiky results. The term texturize should not be confused with hair texture, which is the diameter of the hair strand itself. Point-cutting is performed on the ends of the hair using the tips, or points, of the shears to create a broken edge. Can be done on wet or dry hair. Hold the hair 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) from ends. Point the tips into the ends with your palm facing away from you. A more vertical shears angle removes less hair. The more diagonal the shears angle, the more hair is removed and the chunkier the effect. Notching is another version of point cutting. Notching is more aggressive and creates a chunkier effect. Notching is done toward the ends.
- TEXTURIZING WITH SHEARS (continued) Free-hand notching also uses tips of shears. Shears are not slid. Pieces are snipped out randomly. Generally used throughout interior, rather than at ends. Works well on curly hair. Effilating, also known as slithering, is the process of thinning the hair to graduated lengths with shears. Hair strand is cut by a sliding movement of the shears, with the blade kept partially opened. It reduces volume and creates movement. Slicing is a technique that removes bulk and adds movement through the lengths of the hair. Shears are never closed completely. Use only blade near pivot. Carving is a version of slicing that creates a visual separation in the hair. Works best on short hair. Place still blade into the hair and rest it on the scalp. Move shears through the hair; gently open and partially close shears as you move. Carving the ends: Adds texture and separation to the perimeter of a haircut by holding the ends of a small piece between your thumb and index fingers and carving a surface of that piece. Begin carving 3 inches from ends toward your fingers.
- TEXTURIZING WITH SHEARS (continued) Free-hand notching also uses tips of shears. Shears are not slid. Pieces are snipped out randomly. Generally used throughout interior, rather than at ends. Works well on curly hair. Effilating, also known as slithering, is the process of thinning the hair to graduated lengths with shears. Hair strand is cut by a sliding movement of the shears, with the blade kept partially opened. It reduces volume and creates movement. Slicing is a technique that removes bulk and adds movement through the lengths of the hair. Shears are never closed completely. Use only blade near pivot. Carving is a version of slicing that creates a visual separation in the hair. Works best on short hair. Place still blade into the hair and rest it on the scalp. Move shears through the hair; gently open and partially close shears as you move. Carving the ends: Adds texture and separation to the perimeter of a haircut by holding the ends of a small piece between your thumb and index fingers and carving a surface of that piece. Begin carving 3 inches from ends toward your fingers.
- TEXTURIZING WITH SHEARS (continued) Free-hand notching also uses tips of shears. Shears are not slid. Pieces are snipped out randomly. Generally used throughout interior, rather than at ends. Works well on curly hair. Effilating, also known as slithering, is the process of thinning the hair to graduated lengths with shears. Hair strand is cut by a sliding movement of the shears, with the blade kept partially opened. It reduces volume and creates movement. Slicing is a technique that removes bulk and adds movement through the lengths of the hair. Shears are never closed completely. Use only blade near pivot. Carving is a version of slicing that creates a visual separation in the hair. Works best on short hair. Place still blade into the hair and rest it on the scalp. Move shears through the hair; gently open and partially close shears as you move. Carving the ends: Adds texture and separation to the perimeter of a haircut by holding the ends of a small piece between your thumb and index fingers and carving a surface of that piece. Begin carving 3 inches from ends toward your fingers.
- TEXTURIZING WITH SHEARS (continued) Free-hand notching also uses tips of shears. Shears are not slid. Pieces are snipped out randomly. Generally used throughout interior, rather than at ends. Works well on curly hair. Effilating, also known as slithering, is the process of thinning the hair to graduated lengths with shears. Hair strand is cut by a sliding movement of the shears, with the blade kept partially opened. It reduces volume and creates movement. Slicing is a technique that removes bulk and adds movement through the lengths of the hair. Shears are never closed completely. Use only blade near pivot. Carving is a version of slicing that creates a visual separation in the hair. Works best on short hair. Place still blade into the hair and rest it on the scalp. Move shears through the hair; gently open and partially close shears as you move. Carving the ends: Adds texture and separation to the perimeter of a haircut by holding the ends of a small piece between your thumb and index fingers and carving a surface of that piece. Begin carving 3 inches from ends toward your fingers.
- TEXTURIZING WITH THE RAZOR You can use the razor to remove weight to taper the hair. Removing weight to taper the ends On damp hair, hold the section out from the head with your fingers at the ends. Place the razor flat to the hair, 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 centimeters) away from your fingers . Gently stroke the razor, removing a thin sheet of hair from the area (figure 16–124). This tapers the ends of the section. This technique can be used on any area of the haircut where this effect is desired. Free-hand slicing When free-hand slicing at midshaft of the subsection, comb the hair out from the head and hold it with your fingers close to the ends. With the tip of the razor, slice out pieces of hair. The more vertical the movement, the less hair you remove; the more horizontal the movement, the more hair you remove. This technique releases weight from the subsection, allowing it to move more freely.
- TEXTURIZING WITH THINNING SHEARS AND RAZOR Removing bulk or weight Section as for a haircut. Comb subsection out from head. Cut 4 to 5 inches from scalp. On coarse hair, stay farther from scalp. For blunt cuts, avoid cutting on top. Removing weight from ends: Can be used on thin and thick hair. It helps taper the perimeter of both graduated and blunt haircuts.
- TEXTURIZING WITH THE RAZOR You can use the razor to remove weight to taper the hair. Removing weight to taper the ends On damp hair, hold the section out from the head with your fingers at the ends. Place the razor flat to the hair, 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 centimeters) away from your fingers . Gently stroke the razor, removing a thin sheet of hair from the area (figure 16–124). This tapers the ends of the section. This technique can be used on any area of the haircut where this effect is desired. Free-hand slicing When free-hand slicing at midshaft of the subsection, comb the hair out from the head and hold it with your fingers close to the ends. With the tip of the razor, slice out pieces of hair. The more vertical the movement, the less hair you remove; the more horizontal the movement, the more hair you remove. This technique releases weight from the subsection, allowing it to move more freely.
- TEXTURIZING WITH THINNING SHEARS AND RAZOR (continued) Thinning shear-over-comb: useful for blending weight lines on finer textures of hair. Can also be used on thick and coarse haircuts that are very short. Other thinning shears techniques: any texturizing technique that can be done with shears can also be done with thinning shears. Free-hand slicing with razor: used on hair ends to produce a softer perimeter or to create separation throughout the shape. Razor-over-comb is a technique where the comb and the razor are used on the surface of the hair. Using the razor on the surface softens weight lines and causes the area to lie closer to the head. Razor rotation is very similar to razor-over-comb. The difference is that with razor rotation you make small circular motions. Small, circular motions, the comb follows the razor through the area just cut.
- EFFECTIVELY USE CLIPPERS AND TRIMMERS Clippers are electric or battery-operated tools that cut the hair by using two moving blades held in place by a metal plate with teeth. The blade action is faster than the eye can see. Clippers are mainly used for cutting shorter haircuts and can be used to create a taper, hair that is cut very short and close to the hairline and that gradually gets longer as you move up the head. Clipper Uses: Without length guards To remove hair completely (great for cleaning up necklines and around the ears). To taper hairlines from extremely short lengths into longer lengths, using the clipper-over-comb technique (this technique is very similar to scissor-over-comb, except that the clippers move side to side across the comb rather than bottom to top). With length guards Attachments that fit over the blade plate and vary in size from ⅛ inch to 1 inch for short, layered cuts.
- CLIPPER-OVER-COMB The clipper-over-comb technique allows you to cut the hair very close to the scalp and create a flat top or square shape. The way you use the comb is the same as when you are working with scissor-over-comb. The main difference is that the clippers move across the comb, which requires that you keep the comb in position as you cut. The angle at which you hold the comb determines the amount of hair that is removed. Stand in front of the section The area being cut should be at eye level. Comb placement Place the comb teeth-first into the hairline. Turn the comb so the teeth are angled slightly away from the head. Work against growth patterns and ensure that the hair is lifted away from the head. Hold the comb stationary. Cut length against the comb, moving the clippers from right to left (or left to right if left-handed). Stop to cut. Movements should be fluid, but stop to cut. Remove the comb from the hair and begin the motion again. Use a previously cut section as a guideline.
- TRIMMING FACIAL HAIR Use a tool-over-comb method. When removing length, use the comb to control the hair and always cut against the comb. Cut against the comb. Use a length guard. An attachment can assist in achieving the desired beard length. If using shears rather than clippers, use a less expensive pair since facial hair is very coarse and may dull shears. Discuss brow and ear hair. Ask the client if he wants excess ear or eyebrow hair removed. If so, be very focused in these sensitive areas.
- CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS 1. What are reference points and what is their function? Answer: Reference points are the ears, jawline, occipital bone, apex, and parietal ridge. Reference points help ensure balance within the design so that both sides of the haircut will turn out the same. They also allow the stylist to recreate the same style again and again. In addition, they tell the stylist where and when it is necessary to change techniques in order to make up for irregularities in the head form. 2. What are lines, sections, elevations, and guidelines? Answer: A line is a thin continuous mark used as a guide. A section describes the working area that the hair is separated into prior to cutting; elevation is the angle or degree at which a subsection of hair is held, or lifted, from the head when cutting; and guidelines are sections of hair, located either at the perimeter or the interior of the cut, that determine the length the hair will be cut. A guideline is also referred to as a guide; it is usually the first section that is cut to create a shape. 3. What are important considerations to discuss with a client during a haircutting consultation? Answer: Discuss what the client desires; how much time is she/he willing to spend on hair styling; what is his/her lifestyle; is a classic or trendy style more appropriate; what is the client’s face shape; what does hair analysis reveal; recommend products that will support the look and how to apply them; and explain the necessary tools (blowdryer, type of brush, diffuser, flat iron, etc.) needed for home maintenance.
- CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS (continued) 7. What is another name for bangs? When should you avoid cutting bangs? Name five basic types of bangs. Answer: Because much of our haircutting history comes from England, you will sometimes hear the word fringe used instead of bangs. The two words mean the same thing. Avoid cutting bangs on clients with strong cowlicks or low hairlines; always take into consideration suitability, texture, and face shape. The five basic types of bangs are: side swept, versatile, square, asymmetric, and short textured bangs. 8. Name and describe three or more different texturizing techniques performed with shears. Answer: Point cutting: A technique performed on the ends of the hair using the tips, or points, of the shears. Notching: Another version of point cutting that is more aggressive and creates a chunkier effect than point cutting. Slicing: Removes weight and adds movement through the lengths of the hair. Effilating or slithering: The process of thinning the hair to graduated lengths with shears. A sliding movement of the shears cuts the hair strand, with the blade kept partially opened. It reduces volume and creates movement. Carving: Creates a visual separation in the hair. Carving the ends: Adds texture and separation to the perimeter of a haircut by holding the ends of a small piece and carving a surface of that piece.