This document provides information about various hairstyling techniques including wet styling, heat styling, and updos. It discusses the history and principles of different techniques like fingerwaves, pin curls, roller sets, hair wrapping, blowouts, and silk presses. It also covers consultation questions for natural hairstyles. Factors that influence different services and how to choose tools and techniques based on a client's hair type are addressed.

1. History. Tools. Wet Styling. Heat Styling. Updos
MILADY
HAIRSTYLING

2. THE WHY??
• Historical and technical knowledge of
hairstyling will prepare you for the
constant changes of fashion
• Inspiration is often found in the past.
• Hairstyling is a foundational skill-
Principles of Hair Design that allows
you to articulate creativity and
deliver a specific outcome
• Guests rely on you to teach them -
how to style it for their lifestyle and
fashion needs. Hairstyling skills will
allow you and your guest to stay
contemporary, unique & modern

3. DAY 1- Fingerwaves, Pincurls, Rollers
DAY 2- Thermal, Tools, Products
DAY 3- Hair Pressing
DAY 4- Upstyles & Review

5. Factors that may influence setting and
dressing services:
• Hair cut
• Hair growth patterns
• Hair length
• Hair density
• Head and face shape
• Hair texture
• Hair elasticity
• Scalp analysis
• The occasion for which the style is required
Each of these factors will need to be discussed.
Applying the correct techniques when setting hair
will let you know if you need volume, lift and or
curl
Hair can be rolled to sit on base or off base and the
wind can be directed to suit the style
CONSULTATION
Properties of Hair and Scalp

6. Factors that may influence setting and
dressing services:
• Is this for everyday wear or for an event
• Clients facial features, style, texture
• Natural Hairstyling- about their daily/weekly hair
care maintenance routine, curly/coily styling
regimen, and haircut and style determinations to
help you decide on wash n go styles, braids,
protective styles, locs, natural textured sets/styles
CONSULTATION
Properties of Hair and Scalp
Principles of Hair Design

7. Questions to ask for Natural Hairstyling
1. Do you generally go to a professional for hair services?
2. What is your weekly hair care maintenance routine and curly
styling regimen?
3. How often do you cleanse and condition your hair? Do you co-
wash (use cleansing conditioner that refreshes and adds moisture to
hair between weekly shampoos)?
4. What shampoos and conditioners are you using? Are they sulfate-
free?
5. Do you apply oil treatments to the scalp and hair? (This question is
typically for coily hair textures, damaged hair, and color-treated
hair.)
6. What styling products are you currently using? Do you know how
to properly apply curl-enhancing products? (This is for the
curly/coily regimen.)
7. What detangling tools are you currently using?
8. Do you use heat applications, such as flat irons, hot combs,
blowdryers, or curling wands?
9. How often do you have your hair trimmed or cut? When was your
last trim?
10. Are you transitioning to your natural hair? How long have you been
transitioning?
CONSULTATION
Know your client’s home care regimen: provide daily and weekly instructions for
using sulfate-free and antibacterial shampoos, moisturizing and leave-in
conditioners, essential oil scalp treatments, botanical hair oils, and shine sprays
Also make sure to instruct for preserving natural hairstyles with co-styling, which
refers to using textured hairstyling techniques (typically performed at night) then
covering the hair with a silk or satin bonnet/scarf to preserve a long-lasting
textured style.

8. Wet-Styling Tools
• Combs
• Brushes- boar bristle/teasing/nylon
• Rollers (short, medium, or long)
• Clips (duckbills, double-pronged,
single-pronged)
• Pins
• Clamps

9. Shaping and directing the hair into
alternate parallel waves using
fingers, comb, waving lotion, and
hairpins or clips
FINGERWAVING
• Foundation of hairstyling; evolved
• Finger dexterity, strength, consistency
• Wet, Dry comb out, thermal set
• Made famous by Bette Davis; Had the first
“celebrity” hairstylist
• “Jazz age” loved the fashion but frightened the
conservative
• Short hair was more “acceptable "when softened
& feminine
• Egg whites were often used to give sheen until
proper product were developed

10. • Makes hair pliable and holds it in place
• Made of karaya gum( Indian Gum )- Tree
from India; thickener/binder
• Diluted for use on fine hair
• Concentrated for regular or coarse hair
• Harmless to hair; no flakes when dry
• Avoid excessive amounts of
FINGERWAVING LOTION

11. HORIZONTAL-
parallel to floor
VERTICAL-
up & down

12. PINCURLS
• Damp curl held in place by a pin
• Wet hair- long lasting set because of
BOND formation
• Dry hair- Cool down from iron work
• Longevity
Serve as the basis for patterns,
lines, waves, curls & rolls

13. • Parts of a Curl
• Base- Stationary; Immoveable
• Stem- Between; Gives direction &
mobility
• Circle-Size of circle is width of
wave
PINCURLS
• Anchoring Pincurls- Pincurl clips or bobby pins
• Try NOT to clip both sides
• Cotton can be used in between prong & scalp

14. • No-stem
Min Mobility
On base
Long lasting
• Half-stem
Med Mobility
Half base
• Full-stem
Greatest
movement
Off base
PINCURLS- MOBILITY- Amount of movement; determined BY STEM
NO
STEM
HALF
STEM
FULL
STEM

15. • Molded in circular movement for curl
• Begin at open end of a shaping.
PINCURLS- Shaping for placement

16. • Open-center curls
Smooth/Uniform
• Closed-center curls
Decrease in size
PINCURLS

17. • Forward movement-
Towards face
• Reverse movement-
Away from face
• Upward movement-
Toward top of head
• Downward movement
• Clockwise
• Counterclockwise
PINCURLS
UPWARD
UPWARD&
DOWNWARD
• Opposite directions create a wave

18. Pin Curl Foundations or Bases
• Rectangular base-
Front hairline; upswept
• Triangular base-
Fringe; no splits
• Arc base- C Shape,
Half moon; Carved from
shaping; curve of head
• Square base-
Curly hair, not a lot of
volume; need to stagger

19. Pin Curl Techniques
• Ribboning-
Thumb & back of
comb; Creates
tension
• Waves-
Opposite direction

20. • Carved/sculptured curls-
Sliced from shaping without lifting; Can ribbon
• Ridge curls-
Behind fingerwave
• Skip waves-
Usually on side of
head
Pin Curl Techniques

21. Creating Volume with Pin Curls
• Cascade curls- Stand up curls
Height; 90 degrees
• Barrel curls- Large center
opening
Rectangular stand up; mimics
marcel iron

22. Rollers VS Pincurls
• Roller set is also known as a
wet set
• Speed
• Increased strength
• Greater creativity
• Rollers are a much faster way to set the hair- 1 Roller is equivalent to 2-4
pincurls
• Hair is wrapped around the roller with tension, which gives a stronger and
longer-lasting set.
• Variety of shapes, widths, and sizes, which broadens the creative
possibilities for an

23. Parts of a Roller Curl
• Base- Where roller is placed;
Same length & width of
roller; Determines VOLUME
• Stem- Gives direction &
mobility
• Curl- Size of curl; Wrapped
around roller

24. Choosing Roller Size
• C-shaped curl-
1 turn around
• Wave-
1 ½ turns around
• Curls-
2 ½ turns
around

25. Choosing Roller Size

26. ROLLER SET/ BASE CONTROL
ON BASE
Most volume HALF ON BASE
Medium volume
OFF BASE
No/Low volume
ON ON HALF
OFF
OFF
HALF
OFF
OFF
135
90
45 • Base- hair at scalp
• Placement = volume
• Longer hold then marcel
• Tool size determines section size
• Proper tension
• Proper product based on texture & desired end result
• Great foundation for upstyling

27. Roller Placement
• On base-
Higher than 90
• Half base-
90
• Off base-
Below 45
• Indentation
Opposite directions meet
Recession

28. Today, the most common roller set is a damp or dry set.
• Spray a light styling aid on the hair- then roll hair on roller and secure
• Next, dry with a blowdryer with a diffuser attachment, or a hooded dryer, and cool with the cool shot button on the blowdryer.
• Damp sets generally start with a blowdry using a round brush, with each section then pinned into a barrel curl to further set
the hair.
Damp Set/ Dry Set

29. Rollers
• Hot rollers: used on dry hair only;
heated electrically or by steam,
thermal protectant
• Velcro™ rollers: used on dry hair
only for 5 to 10 minutes (not
allowed in some states); wet hair
can snag

30. Back-Combing Technique
Teasing, Matting, Ratting, French Lacing
• Section hair.
• Insert comb.
• Press comb to scalp.
• Create cushion base.
• Repeat for volume.
• Smooth hair- 45 degree angle;
lightly over surface

31. Back-Brushing Technique
Ruffling
• Hold strand.
• Place brush.
• Roll brush.
• Turn brush.
• Blend hair.
• Complete styling.

32. REVIEW
• What is the process of shaping hair into alternate
parallel waves?
• What makes fingerwaves more pliable?
• What are the 3 parts of a curl?
• What is the mobility of a curl?
• What is the difference between Open center curls
and Closed?
• Which base is good for the front hairline?
• Why do need to ribbon the hair?
• How many times does the hair need to wrap around
a roller for a full curl?
• What is an indentation?
• What are some other terms for backcombing?

33. • Keeps curly hair smooth and straight while
retaining a beautiful shape.
• Hair is wrapped around the head to give it a
smooth, rounded contour, similar to that attained
with rollers
• Wet hair responds better when relaxed
• Short hair is “Molding”
• When wrapping hair, very little volume is
attained because the hair at the scalp is not lifted
• Height can be achieved by placing large rollers
directly at the crown, with the remainder of the
hair
Hair Wrapping

34. • Comb hair and wrap around the head to give it a smooth,
rounded contour, resulting in an effect that is similar to the use
of jumbo rollers.
• Wrap hair wet with setting foam and secure with paper hair
wrapping strips and secure
• Then dry the hair under a hooded dryer.
• Once the hair is partially dry, remove the strips.
• Allow hair to completely dry then comb the hair following the
same direction of the wrap.
• Style using a flat iron and liquid tool of choice to add sheen or
shine.
Volume Wrap.
• If height is desired, place large rollers directly at the crown and
apex, with the remainder of the hair wrapped around the head.
• Place the client under a hooded dryer.
• For the comb out, remove the rollers and relax the curls using a
feather comb.
• Use a flat iron to smooth out all wrapped hair.
• If the curl achieved from the rollers is too tight for the client,
use a large barrel iron or flat iron to slightly relax the curl.
• Use a light sheen spray to complete style.
• This works best with naturally straight, wavy, or relaxed hair.
Hair wrapping is a popular wet-set technique used to make chemically relaxed hair smooth and straight
while retaining a beautiful shape.

35. Copyright
©
2023
Milady,
a
part
of
Cengage
Learning
®
May
not
be
scanned,
copied,
or
duplicated,
or
posted
to
a
publicly
accessible
website,
in
whole
or
in
part.
HAIR MOLDING is a setting technique done on very short to mid-length chemically relaxed hair.
There are three types of molding techniques: textured molding, flat molding, and a combination of both.
Setting foam molding Flat molding

36. Flat molding is achieved by smoothing the hair flat following
the contour of the head.
A flat mold’s finished look has many variations and is based
entirely on the client’s desired style.
The front, sides, and apex can be a combination of flat
(straight) or partially wrapped.
The basic flat mold includes a side part with all hair laid flat
and smooth- USE SETTING FOAM ON EACH LAYER
Secure with wrapping strips- If needed
Allow to dry completely before combing out
Textured molding is performed on clients who desire a
textured curly look.
The hair is set in soft finger waves using setting foam.
Once the finger waves are complete, the client is placed
under a hooded dryer.
When the hair is dry, the waves are combed out and curls
are placed using the thermal tool of choice (Marcel or
small flat iron), creating a “textured” look.

37. Roller wrap
• Begin by setting the entire head on rollers using setting
foam- roll using desired rolling pattern
• Place under hooded dryer
• Remove the rollers and use a boar grooming brush or
comb to perform a “dry” wrap, which is the placing of the
hair tightly around the contour of the head.
• To keep the hair in place, tightly place “cling wrap”
around the client’s head.
• Cover all hair with the “cling wrap.”
• Then place the client back under the dryer for 10–15
minutes depending on hair density.
• The “cling wrap” acts as a sealant, with the heat causing
the roller set to relax and smooth.
• Remove the “cling wrap” by placing both hands gently on
the client’s head and softly twisting the wrap in the same
direction that the hair is wrapped until it releases itself.
• Comb out the hair by following the direction the hair is
wrapped until all hair is hanging loose.
• Use a feather comb to distribute hair in the final desired
look.
• Use a light sheen or spray to complete the look.

38. • It uses rollers to stretch the curl pattern and a blowdryer
and round brush to smooth the hair.
• Apply a thermal protectant and a small amount of
smoothing cream on the hair before setting with rollers.
• Then set the hair in a straight pattern using jumbo rollers.
• Allow the hair to dry, remove the rollers, then section the
hair for control.
• To style, use a boar bristle round brush and a blowdryer
to smooth the base area of the hair first.
• Continue using the brush and heat to smooth the rest of
the strand.
• The round brush will leave the hair smooth with a slight
bump on the ends.
• A doobie wrap is a “dry” wrap procedure done using a
boar brush or comb.
• Wrap the hair around the head using the same steps as a
wet wrap.
• If the hair is too short to stay in this position on its own,
use duckbill clips to hold hair in place until all hair is
wrapped and secured using a large hairnet or a silk scarf
that is tied on the forehead.
• Once secured, remove all clips to prevent indentations.
• Nightly maintenance for clients.
Blow Out Wrap. The blow-out roller wrap is a service
performed on highly textured virgin hair.
Doobie Wrap. Maintenance of any wrap style involves a
technique called the doobie wrap.

39. SILK PRESS is performed on highly textured virgin hair.
It uses a blowdryer, flat iron, and “cling wrap.”
• Begin by applying leave-in conditioner and thermal protectant
to the client's hair.
• If more bounce is desired, replace the paddle brush with a round
brush and flat iron the hair.
• Use a pressing comb for the edges if the hair is too short for the
flat Iron.
• If more curl is desired, curl the hair and finish with liquid
finishing tools.
• To complete the flat silk press, wrap the hair using the “dry
wrap” method and securely cover the entire head with “cling
wrap.”
• Place the client under a hooded dryer for 10–15 minutes then
remove the “cling wrap” by placing both hands gently on the
client’s head and softly twisting the wrap in the same direction
the hair is wrapped until it releases itself.
• Comb out hair and apply sheen or weightless product for shine.

40. Thermal Styling
• The process of drying and styling
damp hair in one operation
• Today’s women desire styles that
require less time and effort to
maintain.
What we think we look like
VS What we actually look like

41. Blow-Dry Styling Tools
• Blow-dryer
• Handle
• Slotted nozzle
• Small fan
• Heating element
• Speed/heat controls
• Diffuser

42. Combs, Picks, Clips
• Length and spacing of the teeth vary
from one comb to another
• Teeth that are close remove definition
from the curl and create a smooth
surface
• Widely spaced teeth shape larger
sections of hair for a more textured
surface
• Combs with a pick at one end lift the
hair away from the head.

43. Brushes
• Classic styling brush- Anti static, little
volume, nylon
• Paddle brush- Long hair, cushion release,
vertical brushing
• Grooming brush- Boar/Nylon; distribute
oil; polish
• Vent brush- Speeds drying; add lift
• Round brush- Natural/ Mixed; sizes
• Teasing brush

44. Styling Products
• Foam or mousse
• Gels
• Liquid gels or texturizers
Molding
• Straightening gels
• Volumizers
• Pomade or wax
• Silicone shiners
• Hair spray or finishing
spray

45. Copyright © 2023 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning®
May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a
publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Blowdryer
parts &
Selections

46. BLOWDRY MOTORS
AC Motors. AC motors have been the gold
standard for
Heavier gauge cord and 8- to 9-foot (2.67- to 3-
meter) cord length
• Appliance leakage current interrupter (ALCI)
safety plug or a three-prong plug, AS a safety
feature
• Multiple heat and air velocity settings
• Cool shot buttons (most have them)
• Heavier but more quiet than DC
• Working life span of up to 1,200 hours
• Can use 1,600 to 1,850 watts of electricity
• More expensive than DC motor blowdryers
• 1,600 to 1,850 watts.
• AC, DC, EC

47. BLOWDRY MOTORS
EC Motors. – Electronically Communicated Hairdryers
with EC motors are lightweight and have far greater
longevity than AC or DC motors.
• Lightweight and quiet
• Delivers strong airflow and maximum heat
• Significantly longer life span than AC or DC motors
• AC and DC motors have carbon brushes that wear out
over time; EC motors are brushless and use magnets and
digital electronics
• Currently more expensive
• Include three-prong plug or ALCI plug and professional-
length cord
DC Motors. Due to improved technology in recent years,
some professional stylists are opting for DC motor dryers.
• Used in most consumer dryers and some professional dryers
• Lighter and less expensive than most AC motors
• Working life span typically up to 700 hours
• Noisier than AC or EC motors
• Up to 1,800 watt; 1,200 is most common
• Usually less airflow and heat
• Safety ground feature (three-prong plug or ALCI plug)
sometimes not present
• May not have professional-length cord

48. Blow-Dry Cautions
• Remember hair stretches when wet-
more fragile
• Apply product
• Don’t hold dryer in one place too long.
• Direct air flow.
• Direct hot air away from scalp.
• Move in back-and-forth motion.
• Partially dry before style blow-drying.

49. Blow-Dry Procedures- Tension Texture Density
• Blow-drying short, layered, curly hair
• Diffusing long, curly hair
• Blow-drying straight or wavy hair for volume
• Blow-drying blunt or long-layered hair into straight
style

50. Thermal Hairstyling
• Methods of waving and curling straight or
pressed dry hair using thermal irons and special
manipulative techniques
• Temperature of Iron depends on TEXTURE

51. Copyright
©
2023
Milady,
a
part
of
Cengage
Learning
®
May
not
be
scanned,
copied,
or
duplicated,
or
posted
to
a
publicly
accessible
website,
in
whole
or
in
part.

52. Copyright
©
2023
Milady,
a
part
of
Cengage
Learning
®
May
not
be
scanned,
copied,
or
duplicated,
or
posted
to
a
publicly
accessible
website,
in
whole
or
in
part.
Hair Texture Fahrenheit Celsius
Fragile 250°F 121°C
Fine 300°F 149°C
Medium 350°F 177°C
Coarse 375°F 191°C
Coarse and coily 400°F 204°C
GENERAL HEAT PARAMETERS

53. Thermal Irons
• Four parts
• Rod handle
• Shell handle
• Barrel or rod
• Shell

54. Flat Irons
• Range in size from 1/2 inch to 3 inches across
• Used to create smooth, straight styles
• Edge closest to Stylist if the INNER EDGE

55. CRIMPER
HANDLE-LESS
HEAT
RESISTANT
GLOVE
FLAT IRON
COMB “ CHASING” IRON

56. Testing Thermal Irons
• Heat iron.
• Clamp heated iron over
tissue.
• Note if paper scorches.
• Let cool as needed.

57. Care of Thermal Irons
• Wash with soap and water.
• Use fine sandpaper or steel wool.
• Baking soda & Hydrogen Peroxide;
soft sponge
• Relaxer
• Oil joint.
• Wrapping cords

58. Thermal Iron Comb
• Hard rubber, Carbon
• Size
• Holding comb

59. Practice with Cold Irons
• Grasp handles with dominant hand.
• Place three middle fingers on back of lower handle, with little finger in front
and thumb in front of upper handle.

60. Other Types of Curls
• End curls

61. • Volume-base thermal curls
• Max lift
• Section off base.
• Hold strand at 135-degree
angle.
• Slide iron over strand.
• Wrap strand over rod with
medium tension.
• Maintain position for 5
seconds.
• Roll curl and place on base.
Other Types of Curls

62. • Full-base thermal curls
– Section off base.
– Hold strand at 125-degree angle.
– Slide iron over strand.
– Wrap strand with medium tension.
– Maintain position for 5 seconds.
– Roll curl and place firmly on base.
– Strong curl
– Directly in center of base
Other Types of Curls

63. • Half-base thermal curls
• Moderate lift
• Half base
• Section off base.
• Hold hair at 90-degree angle.
• Slide iron over hair strand.
• Wrap strand over rod with medium
tension.
• Maintain position for 5 seconds.
• Roll curl and place it half on base.
Other Types of Curls

64. Other Types of Curls
• Off-base thermal curls
• Low volume
• Section off base.
• Hold hair at 70-degree
angle.
• Slide iron over strand.
• Wrap strand over rod
with medium tension.
• Maintain position for 5
seconds.
• Roll curl and place off
base.

65. Safety Measures
• Get instructions for use of irons.
• Keep irons clean.
• Do not overheat.
• Test temperature.
• Handle carefully.
• Place hot irons in safe place to cool.
• Don’t place handles too close to heater.

66. • Properly balance irons in heater.
• Use hard rubber or nonflammable
combs.
• Do not use metal combs.
• Place comb between scalp and
iron.
• Curl only clean, dry hair.
• Avoid fishhooks.
• Use gentle setting on chemically-
treated hairair.
Safety Measures

67. REVIEW
• What is the process of drying and styling
damp hair in 1 process?
• What are some examples of brushes?
• What are some examples of products?
• What should you base the temperature of
your iron on?
• What kind of comb should you use?
• What is thermal hairstyling?
• What are some guidelines for Thermal
safety?
• What sizes do flat irons come in?
• What are some types of base placement for
the marcel?

68. Thermal Hair Straightening-
Hair Pressing
• Soft press- Removes 50-60%; one side
• Medium press- Removes 60-75%; 1 time each side
• Hard press - Removes all curl; twice to each side

69. Analysis of Hair and Scalp
• Wave pattern of hair
• Length of hair
• Texture of hair
• Feel of hair- wiry, soft
• Elasticity of hair
• Shade of hair- Lightener?
• Condition of hair
• Condition of scalp- Abrasions?

70. Texture and Feel of Hair
• Coarse, overly curly
• Medium
• Fine
• Wiry- less sebum

71. Conditioning Treatments
• Cosmetic preparations
• Thorough brushing
• Scalp massage- make scalp
more flexible

72. Pressing Combs
• Construction
• Handles- Wood; not absorb heat
• Teeth- More space = less straight
• Tempering the comb
• Heat comb.
• Remove comb.
• Coat in oil/petroleum
• Cool and rinse to remove excess oil
• Burns off any polish from manufacturer-
better heat distribution

73. • Heating the comb- gas, electric
• Testing the temperature
• Attachment
• Cleaning the comb
Pressing Combs

74. • Cleaning the comb
• Wipe clean of loose hair,
grease, and debris.
• Remove carbon with emery
board, steel wool, or fine
sandpaper.
• Immerse in hot baking-soda
solution for one hour.
• Rinse and dry thoroughly.
Pressing Combs

75. Pressing Oil Benefits
• Makes hair softer
• Prepares hair for pressing
• Prevents hair from burning
• Helps prevent breakage
• Conditions hair after pressing
• Adds sheen
• Helps retain press

76. What to Avoid When Pressing
• Excessive heat or pressure on
hair and scalp
• Too much pressing oil on hair
(can attract dirt)
• Perfumed pressing oil near scalp
• Too-frequent hair pressing (can
weaken hair)
• Double Press- Hard Press- Not
always needed

77. • Keep comb clean and carbon free.
• Avoid overheating pressing comb.
• Test comb temperature.
• Adjust temperature.
• Touch up presses- Humidity
• Use comb carefully to avoid burning
skin.
• Prevent smoking/burning of hair.
• Use moderately warm comb at temples
and nape.
• Grey hair can discolor from heat
• Wiry hair can withstand more pressing
• Flexible scalp requires MORE tension

78. Injuries
• Immediate physical damage
• Not immediately evident

79. Special Considerations
• Pressing fine hair
• Pressing short fine hair
• Pressing coarse hair
• Pressing tinted, lightened, or gray hair

80. REVIEW
• What is a pressing comb?
• What are 3 presses you can perform?
• What do the teeth spacings do?
• What material are they made out of?
• What does tempering the comb mean?
• What are the benefits to pressing oil?
• What are some safety measures to take
with the pressing comb?
• How do you clean it?

81. Copyright © 2023 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning® May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted
to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Natural Hairstyling-
Does not use chemicals
Co-Styling- Techniques
performed at night to preserve
a style; usually covered in a
silk or satin bonnet/scarf
Co-Washing- Cleansing
conditioner that refreshes and
adds moisture to hair
inbetween shampoos

82. Curly and Coily Method for Textured Hair
Curl ’n’ go and coil ’n’ go are styling methods that achieve a free
curly or coily defined texture using products and finger/hand
manipulations.
Use a leave-in conditioner, curl-enhancing cream, gel, or foam. H
and-style after air drying or using a hooded dryer or diffuser.
Use hydration and moisturizing, water-based products
• Wavy and curly textures require light water-based products
and light creams with humectants.
• Very curly to tightly coiled textures require a combination of
water-based products, curl creams with humectants, butters,
and botanical/essential oils to control frizz and add luster.
• Butters and oils are too heavy for silky, wavy, and some curly
textures.
• Leave-in-conditioner
• Curl-defining and curl-enhancing cream
• Curl creams with butters and essential oils
• Cream gel or alcohol-free styling gel
• Curl styling foam
• Wide-tooth comb
• Detangling brush or paddle brush
• Fingers and hands
• Hooded dryer/diffuser

83. The sponge is a very popular tool
used to create tiny or chunky coils on
very curly and coily textures.
• The double-sided foam sponge
is designed with small and large
holes in the sponge.
• The holes gather the hair
together while the sponge is
rubbed in a circular motion on
top of the head after applying a
curl cream or foam.
• Clients with very tight dry coils
should be very careful when
using this technique.
Sponging Technique

84. • All textures—hydrating and moisturizing, water-based products
• Wavy and curly textures—light, water-based products with light humectant creams
• Very curly to coily textures—combination of water-based products and moisturizing products
with botanical/essential oils
• Tightly coiled textures to Afro/highly textured—heavy moisturizing products with butters and
essential oils
• Hydration and moisture are the key components that benefit curly and coily hair- HUMECTANTS
• Water and sulfate-free moisturizing shampoos, conditioners, and creamy leave-in-conditioners are very
important for maintaining healthy hair.
• Essential and botanical oils are best for providing smoothness and shine
• Products that contain mineral oil, lanolin, bees wax, parabens, petrochemicals, and petroleum and silicones can
clog the pores, attract dirt and debris, and cause product buildup- will dry out and absorb moisture from the hair
PRODUCT SELECTION

85. Curly Method RAKE HAIR
SCRUNCH HAIR
• Use a paddle brush or detangling brush or fingers
• Typically, curly textures:
• require water-based and light humectant curl cream
products
• Do not require heavy curl creams and botanical oils
• Can be refreshed and rehydrated by co-washing
• During this service, rake and then scrunch the hair.
• You rake the hair by using your fingers in a
downward motion to separate and style the hair.
• You scrunch the hair by using the inside of your
hands or a terry cloth towel/Tshirt/Papertowel
Weekly hair styling regimen achieve the curl ’n’ go/wash ’n’ go
hairstyle created with raking, spiral curling, and scrunching techniques.

86. SERVICE + PRODUCT
BRAIDS
FEED IN
TREE
BRAIDS
LOCS
SISTER
LOCS

87. SERVICE + PRODUCT
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STYLES
BANTU/NUBIAN KNOTS BRAID OUT SET

88. Coily Method
Palm Coil Finger Coil
• Generally, the coily method is used with shorter, coily cropped styles
• Require hydration and moisturizing, water-based products
• Work well with heavier curl creams, butters, botanical oils, foams, and gels; while these
heavier ingredients are very beneficial, they must be cleansed weekly from the hair and scalp
with a sulfate-free cleanser to prevent product buildup
• Benefit from the LOC method (leave-in-conditioner, oils, and curl cream), a layering routine
that provides high moisture for textured hair
• Can be refreshed and rehydrated by co-washing daily

89. SERVICE + PRODUCT
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STYLES
FLAT TWIST

90. SERVICE + PRODUCT
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STYLES
GLAMOR WAVES
SPIRAL ROD SET

91. SERVICE + PRODUCT
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STYLES
COIL/ COMB TWIST
COMB OUT
TWIST SET/
TWIST OUT

92. SERVICE + PRODUCT
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DREADLOCK TECHNIQUES
COMB
PALM ROLL BRAID/EXTENSIONS

93. SERVICE + PRODUCT
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• Phase 1- soft, coil, neat, shiny
• Phase 2- Pre lock, puff up, no longer
smooth/glossy
• Phase 3- Sprouting, bulb at end of lock
• Phase 4- Growing, frizzy
• Phase 5- Mature, dull, no light reflection
• Phase 6- Atrophy, lock is closed

94. Copyright
©
2023
Milady,
a
part
of
Cengage
Learning
®
May
not
be
scanned,
copied,
or
duplicated,
or
posted
to
a
publicly
accessible
website,
in
whole
or
in
part.
Developmental Phases of Locs
PHASE LOC CHARACTERISTICS
Phase 1—Beginner Locs Hair is soft and coiled into spiral configurations. The coil is smooth,
and the end is open. The coil has a shiny or a glossy texture.
Phase 2—Pre-loc Stage Hair begins to interlace and mesh. The separate units begin to puff
up and expand in size. The units are no longer glossy or smooth.
Phase 3—Sprouting Stage A bulb can be felt at the end of each loc. The hair is interlacing and
locking continues.
Phase 4—Growing Stage Locs are formed and growing and the hair begins to regain length.
The loc may still be frizzy, but it is also solid in some areas.
Phase 5—Maturation Stage Locs are closed at the ends, dense and dull, and do not reflect light.
Locs are much longer now and fully locked.

95. Styling Long Hair: Updos
• Valuable service
• Weddings
• Proms
• Other evening events

96. Client Consultation
• Determine client desires.
• For wedding, use
magazines, suggest trial
run, bring headpiece.
• Suggest trial run.
• If bridal, bring headpiece.

97. Styling Long Hair
• Knot: also called a chignon
• Twist: elegant, sleek look that
can go anywhere
• Pleat: traditional updo used for
weddings and black-tie events
(sometimes called a classic
French twist)

98. REVIEW GAME