This document provides information on lipstick, including its definition, characteristics, composition, manufacturing process, potential defects, and evaluation methods. Lipstick is defined as a dispersion of coloring matter in a base of oils, fats, and waxes molded into a stick. It aims to impart attractive color and gloss to lips while preventing drying and cracking. The composition includes waxes, oils, coloring agents, preservatives, and fragrances. Potential defects include sweating, bleeding, and streaking. Lipstick is evaluated based on color consistency, melting point, softening point, microbial contamination, rancidity, breaking load, and rupture strength.

1. Lipstick
Dr. Sachin B. Somwanshi
Assistant Professor,
Department of Pharmaceutics
Pravara Rural Education Society’s,
College of Pharmacy (For Women),
Chincholi, Nashik
More to Them Than the Colour & the Cream

2. OUTCOMES
After successful completion of this topic student will
able to,
 State and generalize the concepts of lipstick, general
excipients used in lipstick.
 Apply the basic characteristics and scientific
knowledge during preparations lipstick
 Evaluate the lipstick preparation

3. OUTLINES
 Definition
 Characteristics
 Composition
 General Manufacturing Process
 Defects
 Evaluation of finished products

4. LIPSTICK
Lipstick may be basically defined as dispersion of
the colouring matter in a base consisting of a suitable
blend of oils, fats and waxes with suitable perfumes
and flavours moulded in the form of sticks to impart
attractive gloss and colour, when applied on lips.
The prime duty of lip care preparation is, to prevent
drying and cracking of the lips.

5. CHARACTERISTICS
1. A smooth and shiny appearance.
2. Freedom from sweating.
3. A suitable degree of firmness during reasonable
variations of climatic temperature.
4. Retain plasticity without any tendency to dry-out
or crumble.

6. COMPOSITION
• To consider the formulation of lipsticks the basic raw materials are
conveniently classified as follows:

7. Wax and oils:
Best results are obtained by using a mixture of waxes
of different melting points and adjusting the final
melting point of the stick by adding a sufficient quantity
of a high melting point waxes.
Formulation which contain a high concentration of a
single high melting point wax should be avoided.

8. 1. White Beeswax:
A useful material to bind oils and higher melting point
waxes.
The molten wax shrinks slightly on cooling.
Higher concentrations give a dull waxy appearance
and cause the stick to crumble during use.
2. Ozokerite wax:
Sticks containing more than 10% Ozokerite tend to
crumble during application.

9. 3. Ceresine Wax:
 It is used as stiffening agents to provide firmness to the finished
product.
 It is used to increase melting point of the base.
4. Candelilla wax:
 Gives a smooth and glossy appearance to a lipstick if used at a
slightly higher dosage concentration than the proportion of
beeswax.
5. Carnauba Wax:
 It is used to provide rigidity to the stick.
 It is used in modest proportion in order to ensure high melting
points.
 It helps in moulding by shrinking the stick away from the surface
of the mould in order to aid easy removal.

10. 6. Paraffin wax:
 Show strong oil adsorption properties.
It is occasionally used in minor quantities to improve the gloss
of the finished products.
5. Microcrystalline Waxes: They are the hydrocarbons containing
a long carbon chain.
They help in maintaining the crystal structure of the lipstick and
hence may prevent the sweating.

11. 6. Castor oil:
 Is used in nearly all lipstick preparation because of its property as
a wetting agent for pigments.
 It has a thick consistency which provides stability.
7. Paraffin oil:
 Serve as lubricant for application and also add luster.
8. Cetyl alcohol:
 Binding agent between polar and non-polar ingredients.
7. Isopropyl lanolate:
 Disperse pigments well and has convenient fusing properties to
other ingredients.

12. 9. Cetyl lactate & myristyl lactate:
Has a wax like consistency at room temperature but melts on
contact with the skin, giving the product a soft effect.
10. Silicone Fluid:
It is mostly used to aid in mould release and prevent the rub-
out of the wax.
It is used in minor quantities.

13. 11. Lanolin:
 Offer adhesion due to its plasticizing as well as luster.
12. Cocoa Butter:
 It was used in the past due to its good emollient property.
 The usage has been stopped due to rancidity and surface crystallization.
 It provides oily look on the lips and hence imparts good gloss.
13. Petrolatum:
 It is added mainly to enhance the gloss.
14. Lecithin:
 It is used in minor quantities to impart smoothness and emollient effect.
 It increases the ease of application.

14. Coloring Agents
Permitted colors must be used.
 Concentration of Coloring Materials;
Ingredients Amount %
Staining dyes
(Bromo Acids)
0.5 to 3
Oil Soluble Pigments 2
Insoluble Pigments 8 to 10
Titanium Dioxode 1 to 4

15. The color is panted to the lips in 2 ways:
1. By staining the skin with staining dyes.
 These are dye stuff in solution capable of penetration the outer
surface of the lips e.g. acid eosin, and other halogenated
derivatives of fluorescein known as (bromoacids), also Carmine.
Disadvantage:
Difficulty of uniform dispersion of these dye in the lipstick mass
which resulting in shade variation.
So Amine salts of bromo acid dyes, dissolve in a mixture of waxes
and oils can be more uniformly dispersed.
2. By covering the lips with a colored layer:
 The color is produced by insoluble dyes and pigments, which make
the film more opaque.
Both inorganic, organic pigments & metallic lakes are used.

16. Titanium dioxide:
The most effective white pigment used to obtain pink shades and
opaque film on the lips. Protecting them from the aging effect of the sun.
Metallic Lakes:
They are potential pigments of many of the D and C colours.
Aluminium lakes, barium or calcium lakes, strontium lakes. They are
used at concentrations of about 8-10%.
A mix of staining dyes pigments and Tio2 (Titanium dioxide ) is
usually used in lip stick preparation.
Pearlescent Pigments:
They are used to impart nacreous or a pearl like appearance to the
product when applied on the lips.
The natural pearlescent pigments may be guanine crystals obtained
from fish scales. Bismuth oxychloride in 70 % castor oil may also provide
a lustrous look.

17. Alcohol and Fragrances
 Alcohol is used as a solvent for the wax and oils used
in making lipsticks. Fragrance is used for imparting a
pleasant scent to the lipstick and to mask the smell of
other ingredients.
Preservatives and Antioxidants
 Preservatives and antioxidants are added to the lipstick
to increase its shelf life and to prevent it from
becoming stale or rancid.
 Preservatives: methyl paraben,propyl paraben
 Antioxidants : Gallic acid, propyl galate, BHA,BHT

18. Formula for Preparation of Lipstick

19. 2

20. GENERAL MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Steps involved:
 Color Grinding
 Melting and mixing
 Molding
 Flaming
 Labeling and packaging

23. DEFECTS
Formulation Related Problems
1. Sweating: caused due to high oil content or inferior oil binding.
2. Bleeding: separation of colored liquids from waxy bases.
3. Blooming: due to higher percentage of cetyl alcohol.
4. Streaking: expected to be caused due to titanium dioxide.
Moulding Related Problems
1. Laddering: lipstick does not look smooth or homogenous.
2. Deformation: noticeable in softer formulae.
3. Mushy Failure: central core of the stick lacks structure and breaks.
4. Cratering: shows up flaming when stick develops dimples.

24. 1 2 3
Sweating Bleeding Streaking

25. 1 2 3 4
Laddering Deformation Mushy Failure Cratering

26. EVALUATION OF LIPSTICK
 Colour Control
 Determination of Melting Point (Heat Test)
 Determination of Softening Point
 Microbial Testing
 Rancidity
 Breaking Load Test
 Rupture Test

27. Colour Control:
 Color control of lipstick is critical, and one only has to see
the range of colors available from a manufacturer to be
aware of this.
 The dispersion of the pigment is checked stringently when
a new batch is manufactured, and the color must be
carefully controlled when the lipstick mass is reheated.
 The color of the lipstick mass will bleed over time, and
each time a batch is reheated, the color may be altered.
 Colorimetric equipment is used to provide some numerical
way to control the shades of lipstick.
 This equipment gives a numerical reading of the shade,
when mixed, so it can identically match previous batches.

28. Method:
Sample- approx. 50 mg
Melt & fill into a glass capillary tube open
on both the ends.
Cool the capillary tube with ice for 2
hours
Fasten the capillary tube to a thermometer.
Place a beaker full of water on a heating
plate with a magnetic stirrer.
Start heating & stirring at slow & fixed
speed.
The temp at which material moves along
Determination of Melting Point:
determined by using the capillary tube immersion technique in glass
water bath.
should have a M.P. between 55 - 750C. (600C ideal)

29. Determination of Softening Point:
 It is the temperature at which the stick will become
unusable.
 This test is conducted to check the stability of lipstick at
high temperature.
 Softening point range as per the national standard
requirement is 50-550C.
 Method
–Ring and Ball method
–Another Method

30. Ring & Ball Method
 A ring or support orifice is taken & the lipstick to be tested
is inserted into it.
 Extra mass above & below the orifice is removed using a
sharp blade leaving a tablet of lipstick fitted into the ring.
 This is placed in refrigerator (60C) for about 10 min.
 Ring is tied onto a stand or bar.

31. Ring & Ball Method
 A beaker containing 500 ml water
at room temp. is placed on a hot
plate having a magnetic stirrer.
 A steel ball is delicately placed on
the lipstick tablet.
 The bar is with support is then
inserted into the beaker till it
submerges into it.
 Heating & slow agitation is then
begun. Temp is monitored using a
thermometer.
 The temp at which the lipstick
mass & steel balls are loosened &
falls to the bottom of the beaker is

32. Another Method
 The whole lipstick along with its stand is kept in a long flat
bottom tube.
 Care should be taken that the lipstick is in a protruded
position & the bulb of the thermometer just touches the
lipstick mass.
 Place this setup in a 1 liter beaker filled with water to a
level 1 cm above the upper up of the protruding lipstick.
 Start heating water very slowly The temp at which the
lipstick start bending & deforming from its shape is the
Softening Point.

33. Microbial Testing :
 Contamination from raw materials, moulds, storage kettles
or lipstick container can lead to microbial growth.
 Microbial testing is suggested in IS:9875:1990, The test
involves the plating of known mass of sample on two
different culture media for the growth of bacteria & fungi
and incubating them for a specific period of time.
 The limit is, not more than 100 µo/gm.

34. Rancidity:
 Rancidification is the decomposition of fats, oils and other
lipids by hydrolysis or oxidation.
 Is the oxidation of castor oil or other waxy or lipoidal
ingredients.
 It leads to obnoxious odor, bad taste & sticky product &
sometimes change of color of the product.
 The test for rancidity can be done by using hydrogen
peroxide and determining its peroxide number.

35. Breaking Load Test:
 This test is done in order to
determine the strength and
hardness of the lipstick.
 In this method, the lipstick is
placed horizontal position 1 inch
from the base and weights with
increasing loads are attached to it.
 The weight at which the lipstick
starts to break known as breaking
load point.

36. Breaking Load Test:
 Weights can be replaced by using
increasing increments of water
from a burette.

37. Rupture Test:
 In the Rupture Test, the lipstick is placed in two holders, in
the extended position.
 Weight is added to the holder on the lipstick portion at
30-second intervals until the lipstick ruptures.
 The pressure required to rupture the lipstick is then
checked against the manufacturer's standards.
 Since there are no industry standards for these tests, each
manufacturer sets its own parameters.

38. Thank You…