Lipstick

1. Dr. Prashant L. Pingale
Associate Professor,
Dept. of Pharmaceutics,
GES’s Sir Dr. M. S. Gosavi College of
Pharm. Edu. and Research,
Nashik-422005

2. Points to be studied?
 Definition
 Characteristics of lipsticks
 Composition
 Formulation related problems
 Moulding related problems
 Evaluation of finished products
 Marketed products

3. • Also called as lip cosmetics, widely used by women.
• It may be refer as color cosmetics.
• Lipstick is a cosmetic product containing pigments,
oils, waxes, and emollients that applies color and
texture to the lips.
• There are many varieties of lipstick.
• Lippy is a common British word for lipstick.
DEFINITION

4. Characteristics of Lipsticks
 Should cover lips adequately
 Long last effect
 Make lips soft
 Must adhere firmly to lips without being brittle & tacky
 Good degree of quality
 Completely free from grittiness
 Non- drying
 Non- irritating to skin of lips
 Desirable degree of plasticity
 Should have high retention of colors intensity without any change in shades
 Pleasant odor & flavor
 Free from sweating
 Shiny & smooth appearance
 Easily applicable & removable
 Stable both physically & chemically

5. Composition
 Wax mixture
 Oil mixture
 Bromo mixture
 Colors
 Preservatives
 Fragrance
 Antioxidants
 Surfactants & other additives

6. WAXES
 The gloss & hardness are generally depends
on characteristics & quantity of waxes
 Best characteristic is obtained by using
mixture of waxes of different m.p & adjusting
the final m.p. by incorporating a sufficient
amount of high m.p. wax.

7. Various waxes used in lipstick
Wax M.P % Purpose
Cetostearyl alcohol 42-45 2-3 Emollient
Cetyl alcohol 45-50 2-3 Emollient
Ceresin wax 60-75 5-20 Increase m.p.
White beeswax 62-64 5-20 Bind oils & higher m.p. waxes
Candelilla wax 65-69 5-10 Gives smooth & glossy appearance
Carnauba wax 80-88 1-3 Imparts rigidity & hardness
Hard paraffin 50 - 57 1-5 Improves gloss
Soft paraffin 38 – 56 1-5 Lubricant, increase spreadability

8. OILS
• The oil mixture is required to blend properly with the waxes to
provide a suitable film on the applied lip skin.
• Also acts as solvent in some formulation.
• Acts as dispersing agent for insoluble pigments.
• The ideal mixture of oil should produce the product, easily spread &
produce a thin film with good covering power.
• Examples:
– Castor oil
– Tetrahydrofurfuryl alcohol (THFA) & esters
– Fatty acid alkylamides
– Paraffin oil
– Isopropyl myristate
– Isopropyl palmitate
– Butyl stearate

9. BROMO MIXTURE
• Maintain the physical form of the formulation
• Also called as bromo acids
• Two classes:
– Red : gives red or reddish blue stain
– Orange , red : gives pink to yellowish pink stain
• About 2-3% bromo acids are used in lipstick
• Solvent used to be mixed with bromo acids:
– Castor oil & butyl stearate
– THFA & esters like acetate, stearate & benzoate
– Glyceryl monostearate or monolaurate & diethylene glycol monostearate
– PG or PEG

10. • Examples of bromo mixture:
– Bromo acid : 15 gm
– PG : 200gm
– PG monomyristate : 100 gm
• Procedure:
– Mix bromo acid solution & PG (for clearing each other)
– Add PG monomyristate
– Which gives bromo acid that easily mixes with mineral oil &
castor oil & produces a homogenous mass with waxes.

11. COLORS
• Most important from commercial & appearance point of view.
• In olden days, carmine was widely used, but nowadays various
other are available.
• Color in lipstick is imparted by two ways:
– By staining the skin with soln of dyestuff which can penetrate the
outer layer of skin ---- SOLUBLE DYES
– By covering the lips with a colored layer which serves to hide any
skin roughness & give a smooth appearance ---- INSOLUBLE
DYES

12. • Soluble Dyes / Staining Dyes :
– Example:
• Fluorescein,
• Eosin
• Insoluble Dyes / Nonstaining Dyes / lake colors :
– Example:
• Lakes of Calcium, Barium, Aluminium, Strontium
• Used in 10 – 15 % concentration based on shade
• TiO2 is generally used in conc. of 1% for pink shade

13. PRESERVATIVES
• Used to prevent microbial growth
• Example:
– 0.1% propyl parahydrohybenzoate in 0.1%
• Higher conc. of preservative can cause slightly burning
sensation or allergic reaction.

14. FRAGRANCE
• Essential component of lipstick
• Used to mask bad odor of fatty or wax
• Used to impart attractive flavor
• Conc. 2-4%
• Qualities for selection:
– Free from irritating effect
– Free from disagreeable taste
– Stable & compatible with other ings.

15. ANTIOXIDANTS
• Incorporated to prevent rancidification of oily base
during storage.
• Generally used in combination
• Example:
– BHA,
– BHT,
– Propyl gallate,
– Citric acid

16. SURFACTANTS & OTHER ADDITIVES
• SURFACTANTS :Used to promote wetting & stabilize the
dispersion of insoluble pigments in lipstick base
• ADDITIVES: used for various purposes
– Oil - soluble sunscreen: filter the sunrays & protect lip skin from sun
burn.
– Silicon fluid: used as fixative & prevent colors, from bleeding on lips.
– PVP: (conc. 0.5 – 1%) film former on lips & reduce allergic reaction of
other ings. in lipstick.
– Isopropyl linoleate: prevent drying effect.

17. Formula & Procedure
Ingredients Quantity Given
Carnauba Wax 10
Lanolin 5
Cetyl Alcohol 5
Castor Oil 65
Bromo Acid 2% of base weight
Colour Pigment (FeO + TiO2) 5% of base weight
Perfume q.s.
Bees Wax 15

18. General Manufacturing Process
• Steps involved:
– Melting and mixing
– Molding
– Labeling and packaging

19. Defects in lipstick
• Formulation related
– Sweating
– Bleeding
– Blooming
– Streaking
– Seams
• Mould related
– Laddering
– Deformation
– Catering
– Mushy Failure

20. FORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMS
• Sweating:
– Most common problem.
– Caused due to high oil content or
inferior oil-blending capacity of the wax
composition.
– It may arise in any climate or temp.
range

21. • Bleeding:
– Separation of coloured liquids from the waxy
base.
– It leads to extremely uneven color
distribution
FORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMS

22. • Blooming:
– When the surface of the lipstick appears dull instead
of desired gloss is called as the problem of blooming.
– It is chiefly due to higher percentage of cetyl alcohol
(> 5%)
FORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMS

23. • Streaking:
– A thin line or band of different color or substances
appears to the surface of finished products.
– Problem arise due to separation of suspended
particles.
FORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMS

24. • Seams:
– Marks left on the lipsticks when split moulds are used.
– They are caused either due to brittle masses or due
to faulty cooling technique.
FORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMS

25. • Laddering:
– Product has a ladder like appearance
– It does not look smooth or homogeneous
after congealing & setting but instead a
multilayered appearance.
– Occur due to either mould is kept at a
very low temperature or when bulk
formulation is not hot enough or filling
rate is slow.
MOULDING RELATED PROBLEMS

26. • Deformation:
– The shape of the lipstick looks
deformed.
– It is most noticeable in softer
formulae.
– Can appear on side of the
lipstick or on both the sides.
MOULDING RELATED PROBLEMS

27. • Catering:
– This effect is mostly found in split
mouldings.
– It shows up in flaming when the stick
develops dimples (spots).
– The main cause is the presence of trace
amounts of silicone oils or machinery
lubrication oil from manufacturing mixtures
or the dispenser mixture.
MOULDING RELATED PROBLEMS

28. • Mushy Failure:
– The central core of the stick lacks
structure & breaks.
– The problem is not related to
particular formula or particular shade.
– The granularity caused by carnauba
wax could be the reason for this
problem.
MOULDING RELATED PROBLEMS

29. EVALUATION OF FINISHED PRODUCTS
Color control
Determination of Melting Point (Heat Test )
Softening Point
Microbial Testing
Rancidity
Rupture Test
Breaking Load Test.

30. Color control
• Color control of lipstick is critical, and one only has to see the range of
colors available from a manufacturer to be aware of this.
• The dispersion of the pigment is checked stringently when a new batch is
manufactured, and the color must be carefully controlled when the lipstick
mass is reheated.
• Colorimetric equipment is used to provide some control on the shades of
lipstick.
• This equipment gives a numerical reading of the shade, when mixed, so it
can identically match previous batches.
• Matching of reheated batches is done visually, so careful time and
environment controls are placed on lipstick mass when it is not immediately
used.

31. DETERMINATION OF M.P.
• The lipstick base should have a M.P.
between 55 - 750C. (600 C ideal)
• METHOD:
– Sample- approx. 50 mg
– Melt & fill into a glass capillary tube open on
both the ends.
– Cool the capillary tube with ice for 2 hours
– Fasten the capillary tube to a thermometer.
– Place a beaker full of water on a heating plate
with a magnetic stirrer.
– Start heating & stirring at slow & fixed speed.
– The temp at which material moves along the
capillary tube is considered its M.P

32. SOFTENING POINT
• A lipstick should withstand the range of conditions to
which it will subjected in the consumers handbag.
• It should be resistant to varying temp & be just as easy
to apply in the hot as in cold weather.
• Softening point range 50-550C.
• Method:
– Ring and Ball method
– Second Method

33. SOFTENING POINT
Ring & Ball Method
• A ring or support orifice is taken & the lipstick to be tested is inserted into it.
• Extra mass above & below the orifice is removed using a sharp blade leaving
a tablet of lipstick fitted into the ring.
• This is placed in refrigerator (60C) for about 10 min.
• Ring is tied onto a stand or bar.

34. SOFTENING POINT
Ring & Ball Method
• A beaker containing 500 ml water at
room temp. is placed on a hot plate
having a magnetic stirrer.
• A steel ball is delicately placed on the
lipstick tablet.
• The bar is with support is then inserted
into the beaker till it submerges into it.
• Heating & slow agitation is then begun.
Temp is monitored using a thermometer.
• The temp at which the lipstick mass &
steel balls are loosened & falls to the
bottom of the beaker is the S.P.

35. SOFTENING POINT
Another method
• The whole lipstick along with its stand is kept in a long
flat bottom tube.
• Care should be taken that the lipstick is in a protruded
position & the bulb of the thermometer just touches the
lipstick mass.
• Place this setup in a 1 liter beaker filled with water to a
level 1 cm above the upper up of the protruding lipstick.
• Start heating water very slowly (@1-20C/min).
• The temp at which the lipstick start bending & deforming
from its shape is the S.P.

36. MICROBIAL TESTING
• Contamination from raw materials, moulds, storage kettles
or lipstick container can lead to microbial growth.
• Microbial testing is suggested in IS:9875:1990,
• The test consists of plating a known mass of the sample on
two selected culture media specifically suitable for the
growth of bacteria & fungi & incubating them for a specified
period to permit the development of visual colonies for
counting.
• The limit is, not more than 100 µo/gm.

37. RANCIDITY
• Rancidification is the decomposition of fats, oils and
other lipids by hydrolysis or oxidation.
• Is the oxidation of castor oil or other waxy or lipoidal
ingredients.
• It leads to obnoxious odor, bad taste & sticky product &
sometimes change of color of the product.
• Testing of rancidity can be done by determining its
peroxide number.

38. BREAKING LOAD TEST
• The test is to find out the value of
maximum load that a lipstick can withstand
before it breaks.
• The protruded lipstick salve is subjected to
a number of weights hanging from it.
• The weight at which the lipsticks breaks is
its Breaking Load.

39. BREAKING LOAD TEST
• Weights can be replaced by using
increasing increments of water
from a burette.

40. Rupture Test
 In the Rupture Test, the lipstick is placed in two holders,
in the extended position.
 Weight is added to the holder on the lipstick portion at
30-second intervals until the lipstick ruptures.
 The pressure required to rupture the lipstick is then
checked against the manufacturer's standards.
 Since there are no industry standards for these tests,
each manufacturer sets its own parameters.

41. Marketed Products
• Lakme
• ELE- 18