This document discusses the history and formulation of lipsticks. It provides details on key ingredients used in lipsticks like waxes, oils, pigments, and preservatives. Different types of lipsticks are described such as matte, gloss, liquid, and pearlescent formulations. Common brands are compared based on major ingredients and customer reviews. Manufacturing processes and potential defects are also outlined.

1. - Anay N. Kacharia
- Pooja Mohanty

3. Historical Facts
 Mesopotamian women were the first to
decorate their lips
 Abulcasis was the inventor of solid lipsticks
 The Lipstick Revolution started in the 16th
century
 EnglandFranceAmericaIndia

4.  Colour
 Appearance
 Uniformity of colour
 Shelf life

5.  Amount of Pigmentation on First wear
 Presence of any Smudgy feel
 Lasting Power
 Wether or not lipstick Glides on Easily

6. Ingredients in Lipsticks
 Colouring materials-
Ingredient Amount in %
Staining dyes (Bromo 0.5 - 3
Acids)
Oil Soluble Pigments 2
Insoluble Pigments 8 - 10
Titanium Dioxide 1 - 4

7.  Staining dyes-
Eosin Dyes -

8.  Pigments –
(For intensity and Variation of colour)
 Titanium dioxide –
• Helps in obtaining Pink shades
• Gives opacity
• Very high Degree of Brightness

9.  Base –
A) Solid waxes-(Such as)
1) Beeswax
2) Ozokerite
3) Carnauba
4) Candelilla
B) Softening agents (Such as)
1) Modified Lanolins
2) Cocoa Butter

10.  Liquid components-
1) Castor Oil (Most Widely Used)
2) Mineral Oil (Gives Gloss (1-5%) )
3) Butyl Stearate
4) Oleyl Alcohol
5) Propylene Glycol
6) Isopropyl Myristate(Increases lip gloss)
7) Silicone fluids(Particularly Dimethyl silicone)

11. Other Ingredients Includes-
 Perfumes-
(Generally light sophisticated type with an Essential Oil)
 Preservatives- (Paraben Family)
 Antioxidants-(BHA ,BHT, Propyl Gallate)
 UV Filters- (Benzophenone)

12. Manufacture of lipsticks
5 Major Operations:-
• Colour Grinding
• Melting and mixing
• Moulding
• Flaming
• Packaging

14. Types of lipsticks

15. Pearlescent lipstick
• Pearlescent pigments
possess optical effects
that serve decorative
purposes.
• Titanium dioxide flakes
are not single crystals
but polycrystalline and
slightly porous.
• Packed with Vitamin E
and Castor Oils for
continuous moisture.

16. Formulation
SOLUTION FORMULA CONTENT PERCENTAGE
A OZOKERITE 3.00
CANDELILLA WAX 9.00
YELLOW CARNAUBA WAX 3.00
BEESWAX 2.00
GLYCERYL DILAURATE 5.00
C12 C15 ALCOHOL LACTATE 5.00
ISOSTEARYL NEOPENTANOATE 12.00
CASTOR OIL 26.00
LANOLIN 9.20
MINERAL OIL 5.00
OCTYL DIMETHYL PABA 0.15
ANTIOXIDANT 0.05

17. SOLUTION FORMULA CONTENTS PERCENTAGE
B D&C ORANGE NO. 5 ZIRCONIUM LAKE 2.25
OCTYLDODECYL STREARAYL STEARATE 5.25
C F D&C BLUE NO. 1 Al LAKE IN CASTOR OIL 0.80
D MICA AND TITANIUM DIOXIDE 10.00
E FRAGRANCE 0.30

18. Brands
BRAND REVLON AMWAY
MAJOR Trioctyldodecyl Capric, octyl methoxy
INGREDIENT Citrate,Polybutene, Ethylhexyl cinnamate, octyl triisotearyl
Palmitate, Octyldodecyl citrate, benzophenone-3, PVP/
Neopentanoate, Pentaerythrityl hexadecene copolymer, shea
Tetraisostearate,Bis Diglyceryl butter, almond oil, jajoba oil,
Polyacyladipate 2,Ascorbyl
Palmitate (Vitamin C) Serica
Poudre de Soie (Silk Powder),
SILICA
COST Rs 525 Rs 259
STAYING 6-7 HRS `4-5 HRS
POWER

20. Lipstick for Hot Countries
• Enriched with Botanical
extracts.
• Hydrates and protects lips
for hours
• Color pigments contain:
I) Symphytum Officinale
(Comfrey)
II)Sambucus Nigra Seed
III)Plantago Ovata Seed

21. Formulation
SOLUTION FORMULA CONTENTS PERCENATGE
A OZOKERITE 12.00
HYDROGENATED CASTOR 12.00
OIL
HYDROGENATED COCONUT 13.00
OIL
CETYL RICINOLEATE 2.50
GLYCERYL ABIETATE 2.50
ANTIOXIDANT (BHA) 0.50
B CASTOR OIL 35.00
C PIGMENTS AND PERFUMES q.s.

22. Pigments used…
• Mica • Red 27 lake (CI 45410)
• Iron oxide (CI • Red 33 lake (CI 17200)
77491,77492,77499) • Yellow 6 lake (CI 15985)
• Titanium dioxide (CI • Blue 1 lake (CI 42090)
77891) • Yellow 5 lake (CI 19140)
• Bismuth oxychloride (CI • Carmine (CI 75470)
77163)
• Red 7 lake (CI 15850)
• Red 6 lake (CI 15850)

23. Brands
BRAND LAKME 9 TO 5 NYX
MAJOR Trioctyldodecylcitrate,Ethylhexyl Diisostearyl Malate,Polyglyceryl
INGREDIENT palmitate,Octyldodecylpentanot -2 Triisostearate,Isostearyl
etraisostearate,Caprylic/capric Isostearate, Bis-Digylceryl
triglyceride,C10-30 cholesterol/ Polyacyladipade-2,Tocopheryl
lanosterol esters,B15- diglycerylc Acetate, Polyethylene,
polyadipate-2,Calcium sodim octyldodeanol,
bromosilicate,paraffin Polyisobutene,Ethylhexyl
Palmitate,Ceresin,
COST Rs 375 Rs 209
STAYING 8-9 HRS `6-7 HRS
POWER

25. High Gloss Lipstick
• Gives lips a glossy
luster and
sometimes subtle
color.
• Distributed as a
liquid or solid.
• Can be translucent,
or various shades
of opacity.

26. Formulation
CONTENT PERCENTAGE CONTENT PERCENTAGE
LANOLIN OIL 12.48 OLEYL ALCOHOL 32.63
C10-C30 ESTERS 7.39 CASTOR OIL 20.57
PARAFFIN WAX 2.11 C18-C36 ACID 9.51
TRIGLYCERIDE
C18-C36 ACID 6.34 BHA 0.05
GLYCOL ESTER
PERFUME 1.00 D&C RED NO. 21 0.22
TITANIUM DIOXIDE 2.85 BROWN IRON 0.61
OXIDE
D&C RED NO. 6 1.21 PEARL AGENTS 3.03
(BARIUM LAKE)

27. Pigments used
• CI 77019 (Mica), • CI 45380 (Red 21/Red 21
• CI 77891 (Titanium Lake/Red 22 Lake),
Dioxide), • CI 73360 (Red 30),
• CI 77491/77492/77499 • CI 16035 (Red 40 Lake),
(Iron Oxides), • CI 19140 (Yellow 5 Lake),
• CI 771663 (Bismuth • CI 15985 (Yellow 6 Lake).
Oxychloride), • CI 42090 (Blue 1 Lake),
• CI 75470 (Carmine), • CI 15850 (Red 6/Red 6
• CI 77742 (Manganese Lake/Red 7/Red 7 Lake),
Violet), • CI 77947 (Zinc Oxide),

28. Brands
BRAND L’OREAL SEPHORA
MAJOR sesame seed oil, oleyl erucate, Glyceryl Caprylate,
INGREDIENT disteardimonium hectorite, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl
tocopheryl acetate Hydroxyhydrocinnamate,
rosa canina fruit oil,calcium Tocopherol,Bis-
aluminum borosilicate,silica, Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl
argan oil, geraniol,hexyl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer
cinnamal, hydroxycitronellal, Dilinoleate,
calcium sodium borosilicate, Isocetyl Stearate,
synthetic fluorphlogopite, Diisostearyl Malate,
methyl-2 octynoate, Polybutene
polyethylene terephthalate,
polymethyl methacrylate
COST Rs 690 Rs 569
STAYING 7-8 HRS `5-6 HRS
POWER

31. • The inventor is Debra Digirlamo
• It uses soluble or soluble or Solublized dyes
• It uses suitable solvents like monoalkylolamide
of mixed fatty acids or dipropylene glycol
methyl ether.
• Provides a natural and a sophisticated finish

32. Content Percent
Polyamide Resin(average MW 800) 20
Polyamide Reisin(average MW 600-700) 5
Propylene Glycol Monolaurate 28
Castor Oil 12.6
Eosin 0.3
Dipropylene glycol methyl ether 8
Ethoxylated lanolin ether 10

33. Content Percent
Ethoxylated Lanolin alcohols 10.1
(5 moles EO)
Anhydrous Isopropanol 5
Perfume 1

34. Liquid lipstick's

35. • These lipsticks provide more permanent
films
•‘Smarting’ is an issue that occurs on
application of these types of lipsticks.

37. Brand Chambor CP Trendies
Key Polybutene, Mineral oil, polybutene
Ingredients Shea Butter, Octyl ,lanolin,isopropyl
dodecanol,Triclosan, palmitate,castoroil ,
Emulsifying wax, stearalkonium hectorite,
Hexadecene co –polymer, silica ,propylene
Candelila wax, BHT, Propyl carbonate ,aloe
Paraben ,Vit A palmitate, barbadensis leaf extract
Vit E Acetate, Bees wax, .mineral oil ,coconut oil,
Microfine titanium dioxide, tocopheryl acetate ,wheat
Silica, cetearyl alcohol, germ glycerides , almond
Glyceryl Mono Stearate, oil ,propylparaben ,
Octyl dimethyl PABA, Beta allantoin,BHT,fragrance.
Sitosterol, Oxynex ST liquid titanium dioxide ,
. Micro crystalline wax Bismuth
.Perfume oxychloride,Allantoin

38. Evaluation of finished products
• Color control
• Determination of melting point
• Softening point
• Microbial testing (IS: 9875:1990)
• Rancidity (IS: 10284:1982)
• Rupture test
• Breaking load test ( IS 9875:1990)

39. Defects in lipsticks
• Problems with Ingredients
• Moulding related problems

40. Formulation related problems
• Sweating: caused due to high oil content or in
ferior oil binding
• Bleeding: separation of colored liquids from
waxy base
• Blooming: due to higher %age of cetyl alcohol
• Streaking: expected to be caused due to
titanium dioxide

42. Moulding related problems
• Laddering: lipstick does not look smooth or
homogeneous
• Deformation: noticeable in softer formulae
• Cratering: shows up flaming when stick
develops dimples
• Mushy Failure: caused due to granularity of
carnauba wax

43. Deformation occurring when coring
takes place on side of the mould

44. LADDERING DEFORMATION CRATERING MUSHY
FAILURE

45. Hidden Problems with Ingredients

46. References:-
• Cosmetic technology by Sanju Nanda
• Harry’s Cosmeticology
•Wikipedia