Fabric finishes are treatments applied to textiles to improve their appearance, feel, or performance. There are several types of finishes, including basic finishes applied to most fabrics like bleaching, starching, and ironing. Finishes can also be classified as temporary, semi-durable, durable, or permanent depending on how long they last, and as chemical/wet or mechanical/dry finishes based on the application process. Basic finishes are important as they improve fabric aesthetics and suitability for various end uses.

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11
FABRIC FINISHES
Marie-Annandsomeofherfriendshadjoinedahobbyclasstolearnfabricpainting.
Whileevaluatingindividualarticles,theynoticedthatthecoloursofsomeofthearticles
werenotuniformdespitethefactthesamecolourhadbeenusedtopaintallofthem.
Whentheyaskedtheinstructoraboutit,theyweretoldthatthecottonfabricswith
unevencolour-spreadhadbeengivensomefinishwhichneededtobewashedbefore
usingfabricpaintingcolours.Whatdoesthismean?Docoloursbehavedifferentlyon
differenttypesofmaterials?Youhavelearntaboutstarchingandheardtermslikedyeing,
printing,mercerization,etc.Whataretheseprocessesandhowdotheseinfluencethe
functionsoffabric?Inthislessonwewilltrytoanswertheseandmanysimilarquestions.
OBJECTIVES
Afterstudyingthislessonyouwillbeabletodothefollowing:
• explainthemeaningandimportanceoffinishesgiventofabrics;
• classifyvariousfinishesaccordingtotheirproperties;
• describetheeffectoftheapplicationofbasicfinishesonfabrics;
• enumeratespecialfinishesandexplainthewaysofemployingthem;
• elaboratethemethodsofdyeingandprinting;
• evaluatedifferenttechniquesofdecorativedyeingandblockprintingonfabrics.
11.1 TEXTILE FINISHES
Youknowthattheword“textile”meansthecompletestudyoffibres,yarnsandfabric.
Certaintreatmentsareappliedtoimprovethelookandqualitiesoftextilegoods. These
treatmentsarecalledfinishes.Afinishisatreatmentgiventoafabric,tochange
its appearance, handling /touch or performance. Its purpose is to make the
fabric more suitable for its end use.

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Notes
Aseriesoftreatmentsaregiveninmillstofinishtextilesgoods,forexample:afabricis
washed,bleached,dyedorprinted,starchedandironedbeforeitissenttothemarket.
Whenafabricisgivenafinish,itisknownasafinishedtextile. Butitisnotamustthat
allthetextile-productsarefinishedbeforeuse. Whennofinishisappliedonthetextiles,
thesearetermedasgraygoodsorunfinishedtextiles. Thisdoesnotmeanthatthe
fabricisgrayincolour.Itimpliesthatnofinishingtreatmenthasbeengiventoit.
Graygoodslackcustomerappealandyouwillnot
liketobuytheseforyourdressorshirt.Canyousay
why?Yes,youareright.Itisbecauseintheabsence
ofanyfinish,fabricshasdullandshabbyappearance.
Differentcoloursorprintsonfabricsarealsofinishes
andthesemakefabricslookattractive.
Finish includes any general treatment given to clean and iron fabrics and
create exclusive variations of them by using chemical treatments, dyeing,
printing,etc.tomakefabricattractiveandappealing.
Somemajordifferencesbetween‘Unfinishedandfinishedfabrics’areasfollows:
Unfinished/Grayfabric
Dulllooking,availableonlyinnatural
colours-offwhite,brown,black,etc.
Wrinkled, stained, with broken
threads,uneveninwidth,etc.
Relativelylessexpensive.
Lackcustomerappeal,arepurchased
only for rough work, backing,
packaging,etc.
11.1.1 Importance of Textile Finishes
Textilefinishesareimportantbecauseofthefollowingreasons.Thefinisheshelpto:
• improvetheappearanceoffabricandenhanceitslooks;
• producevarietyinfabricsthroughdyeingandprinting;
• improvethefeelortouchoffabric;
Gray goods are the term
used for fabrics that come
directly from the loom and
are used as such. These are
not actually gray in colour
butare‘unfinished’.
Finishedfabric
Lusterous,attractive,availableindifferent
tintsandshadesofcolours,prints,etc.
Smoothandwrinkle-free,nodefectsonthe
surface,evenwidth,freefromstains,etc.
Costoffabricdependsuponthetypeofthe
fibre along with the number and type of
finishesapplied.
Customersgetattractedandbuy.

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• makethefabricmoreuseful;
• improvethedrapingabilityoflightweightfabrics;
• makefabricsuitableforanend(specific)use.
11.2. CLASSIFICATION OF FINISHES
Finishescanbeclassifiedinseveralwaysdependingupontheirfunctions,performance
andnature.
PerformanceFunctional Chemical and Mechanical
TemporaryFunctionalBasic MechanicalDurable Chemical
PermanentSemi
Durable
11.2.1 On the basis of function
Thefinishesmaybebasicorfunctional
i Basic or common finishes are applied to almost all the fabrics, with an aim to
improvetheirappearance,feelandbody.Palewhitecottonfabricsmaybebleached
toimprovetheirwhiteness. Forbetterlookofathincottonfabric,starchisapplied
toincreaseitsweightandshine.SteamIroning,Calendaring(industrialironing)is
abasicfinish.Thesearealsoknownasaestheticfinishes.
Dyeingandprintingarealsoconsideredasfinishesastheyenhancetheaesthetic
appearanceoffabrics.
ii Functionalorspecialfinishesareappliedtoimprovetheperformanceofafabric
forsomespecificpurpose,forexample-
– fireprooffinishpreventstheburningoffabricsusedbyfirebrigadepersonnel,
– waterprooffinishmakesfabricswaterrepellentformakingumbrellasand
raincoats,
– bulletprooffinishonfabricsavesthepeoplefrombulletsandisgenerallyused
bydefenceandpolicepersonnelfortheirsafety,and
– crease-resistantfinishmakescotton/woolfabricwrinkleresistant.
11.2.2 On the basis of degree of performance
On the basis of performance, finishes are temporary, semi durable, durable and
permanent.
FINISHES

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Notes
i Temporaryfinishesarenotdurableandrunoffafterfirstwashingordry-cleaning.
Many of these are renewable and can be reapplied at home, e.g. starching and
blueingofwhitefabrics.
ii Semidurablefinishesstayonthefabricsurfaceforseveralwashings,e.g.bleaching
andcertaindyesusedoncotton.
iii Durablefinisheslastthroughoutthelifeofafabricoragarmentbutmayloseits
effectivenessaftermanywashes,e.g.permanentpleats,wrinkleresistant,etc.
iv Permanentfinishesareisusuallygivenbyachemicaltreatment.Itchangesthefibre
structure and remains as such on the fabric for the entire life of a fabric, e.g.
waterproofing,fireproofing,etc.
11.2.3 Chemical and Mechanical Finishes / Wet and dry finishes
Onthebasisofprocessesinvolvedinapplicationoffinish,therearetwotypes–chemical
(wet)andmechanical(dry)finishes.
i Chemical finishes: These are also known as wet finishes. In these, chemical
treatmentisgiventofabric,eithertochangeitsappearanceorbasicproperties.
Thesefinishesareusuallydurableandpermanentorwetfinishes.Examplesare: fire
proof,creaseresistance,etc.
ii Mechanical finishes: Thesearealsoknownasdryfinishes. Heretheprocess
consistsofapplicationofmoisture,pressureandheatoramechanicaldeviceto
finishafabric.Beating,brushing,calendaring,filling,etc.aresomeofthefinishes
includedinthisgroup.Thesefinishesareeithertemporaryorsemidurableanddo
notlastlong.
Wewilllearnmoreaboutthesefinishesfurtherinthechapter.
INTEXT QUESTIONS 11.1
1. Fillintheblanksafterunscramblingthecluesinthebrackets:
i. Thetreatmentgiventofabricstoenhancetheirappearance,performanceor
handling is known as __________ (N I F S I H E).
ii. Whennofinishisappliedonafabric’ssurface,itisknownas____________
fabric(RAYG).
iii. ______________and________________producevarietyinfabric(YE
D I N G, N I N G P R I T).
v. Achemicalfinishisalsoknownas______________(ETW-ISHFIN).
vi. Waterprooffinishisa__________________finish.(NCFUTIONAL).

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11.3. BASIC FINISHES AND THEIR TYPES
Nowthatyouknowaboutdifferenttypesoffinishes,letsuslearnalittlemoreaboutbasic
finishes. Differenttypesofbasicfinishesare–
(i) Scouring / Cleaning
Fabric,asitcomesfromtheloom,isdullinappearance.Itmayhavestainsofoilsaswell
asstarches,waxes,etc.,thatareappliedtoyarnstomakeweavingeasier.Oncethe
fabriciswoven,thepresenceoftheseadditiveshindersfurtherfinishingprocessessuch
asbleaching,dyeing,printing,etc.Therefore,theseneedtoberemovedbeforesending
thefabricforfurtherprocessing. Scouringistheprocessofwashingfabricwithsoap
solution.Scouringistheprocessofindustrialcleaningoffabricswiththehelpof
warm water and soap solution. It cleans the fabric and makes them more
absorbent.Themethodofwashingafabricischosenaccordingtothenatureoffibre.
Cottonsareboiledinsoapsolutionforcleaning.Silksareboiledtoremovesilkgum
(degumming)whilethewoolfibresareboiledwithsoapsolutiontoremovegreaseand
oils.Fabricsmadefromman-madefibresaregivennormalwashing.Aftercleaning,the
fabricbecomessmooth,neatandmoreabsorbent.
ACTIVITY 11.1
Carry out this experiment and note your observations
Taketwofabricpiecesof4//
x4//
sizeofwhitecolour,oneofthesesshouldbenewand
theotheroldandwashed.Putboththepiecesoffabricinwater.Whatdoyouobserve?
Theoldonewillsinkfasterbecauseitismoreabsorbentasithasnofinishesorstarch
onthesurface.Thenewfabricwillfirstfloatonthewater.Graduallywaterpenetrates
throughthestarchappliedonthefabricsurface,andthefabricsinks.
(ii) Bleaching
Athomeyouuselemon,milk,curdand facialbleachtoremovesun-tan. Asimilar
treatmentisalsogiventofibres. Manyatimesnaturalfibreslikecotton,silkandwool
areavailableinpale/lightbrowncolour.Supposeyouhavetopaintsomethinginlight
pinkcolour,unfortunatelythebrushwasnotwashedproperlyandhadremainsofbrown
init.Whatdoyouthinkwillhappen?Youwillnotgetthepinkyouwanted.Thisbecomes
aproblemaslightshadesofdyesdonotcomeoutwellonsuchfibrecolours.Toget
exactlightshadeofthecolour,theexistingcolourhastoberemoved.Bleachingisa
chemicaltreatmentgiventofibres,yarnsorfabrictoremovepalenessorcolour
and make them white. Suitable bleaching agents such as hydrogen peroxide for
proteinfibresandsodiumhypochloriteforcottons,areused. Man-madefibresdonot
needbleaching. Fabricshavetobecarefullybleachedasbleachcanharmthefabricif
usedinhighconcentration.

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Notes
(iii) Starching / Stiffening
Starchisgenerallyappliedtofabricoffinequalityandlightweightorlooselywoven
fibres. Starching makes the fabric heavier, stiff, and crisp. It also adds shine and
smoothnesstothefabric. Cottons–muslin,poplin,cambricandthinsilksaregenerally
starched.
Sometimesthelooselywovencottonfabricisstarchedheavilysothattheirqualitylooks
betterbutthestarchcomesoutwiththefirstwashandthebasiclooselywovenstructure
of the fabric becomes prominent. Therefore, starched fabric should be examined
properlybeforepurchasing.
ACTIVITY 11.2
• Takethestarchedcottonfabric.Trytolookthroughit. Youwillnoticethatlight
cannotpassthroughthefabricsurface.
• Placeablacksheetofpaperontable.Holdthestarchedfabricinyourhandsand
rubit.
Starchparticleswillfallontheblackpaperintheformofwhitepowder.Nowholdthis
fabricagainstlight.Yes,youcanseelightthroughtheopenspacesintheweave.
Basedonyourexperienceabove,answerthequestionsgivenbelow.Givereason.
– Willyouusethisfabricasafallforasaree?
– Willyouusethisfabrictomakeashirt?
– Willyouusethisfabricasabackingforablouse?
(iv) Calendering
Whydoyouironthegarmentsathome?Itistoremovewrinklesandmakethemlook
better.Thisisthesimplestandthecommonfinishusedtoimprovethelooksofanygray
orfinishedfabric. Similarly,throughtheprocessofCalenderingorindustrialironing
afabricispassedthroughaseriesofsmoothhotrollerstoremovewrinklesand
tomakeitsmooth.Itmakesthefabricsmoothandlustrous,therebyimprovingits
appearance.
11.4. SPECIAL FINISHES
(i) Pre-shrinking
Youmusthaveheardyourmothersayingthatthecottonkurtathatsheboughthasshrunk
andbecomesmallerafterthefirstwash. Shrinkageisthereductionofafabricora
garment in size (length and width) after it is washed or dipped in water. Amarked

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reductioninsizetakesplaceafterwashingcertaincottons,linensandwoollens.Itisall
due to shrinkage. Good quality cottons, linens and wools are pre-shrunk before
marketingthem. Thispre-shrinkingiscalledsanfronisation.Fabricsthataretreatedfor
pre-shrinkingarelabeledas‘sanfronised’or‘anti-shrink’or‘shrink-proof.’Allthese
meanthatthefabricshavereceivedafinishforshrinkagecontrolandwillnotshrinkon
washing.Sanforisationisthepre-shrinkingtreatmentgiventocertainfabrics
madefromnaturalfibrestopreventfurthershrinkageafterwashing.
ACTIVITY 11.3
Sujatawasveryangryanddisappointedbecauseaprintedcottonsuitshehadbought
sofondlyhadshrunksomuchthatitdidnotfitheratall.Beforebuyingshehadasked
the shopkeeper repeatedly if the material was shrink proof. The shopkeeper had
assuredherthatitwas
Letusseeifthesamehappensinthisexperiment
Takeagraycottonfabricof10//
x10//
.Dipitinwaterforatleast3-4hours.Dryand
ironit.Measureallsidesofthesampleagain. Youwillnoticeachangei.e.reductionin
themeasurementsbecausethefabrichasshrunk.
DiscussthefollowinginaPersonalContactProgrammeorwithfriends:
• Bestwaytoensurethatthematerialofthesuitisshrinkproof.
• Whatelsedoesoneneedtocheckaboutthequalitybeforebuyingthematerial?
• Wherecanonelookforsuchinformation?
(ii) Mercerization
Cottonisbasicallyadullfibre. Thefabricmadefromcottonwrinkleseasilyandis
difficulttodye.Itis,therefore,treatedwithsodiumhydroxidetomakeitstrong,lustrous
andabsorbent.Thisprocessiscalledmercerization. Italsoimprovesthedyeuptake
offabrics.Now-a-daysthisfinishhasbecomearoutinefinishforallcottons.Even
sewingthreadswhichareusedforstitchingaremercerized. Youwillfindtheword
‘mercerized’onthelabelsofcottonfabricsandreelsofsewingthreadsdenotingthatthe
goodshavebeenmercerized.
(iii) Parchmentization
Have you heard of a fabric called organdie? Take a piece of organdie fabric and
carefullyobserveit. Thefabricisdifferentfromothercottonfabrics.Yes,itisathin,
transparent,lightweightandstifffabricandseemstobeheavilystarched.Butunlike
starchedfabric,itsstiffnessremainsintactevenafterwashing. Itisnotduetoastarch
butbecauseofapplicationofafinishcalledparchmentization. Inparchmentization,the

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Notes
cottonfabricistreatedwithamildacidthatpartiallyeatsawaythefabric,resultingina
transparentandstifffabriccalledorgandy.Youdon’tneedtoapplystarchtoorgandy
fabric.
(iv) Wash‘n’Wear
BhanwariworksasasecurityguardinaschoolinBikaner,Rajasthan.Thetemperature
goesashighas40-42degreesC. Shedoesnotgetenoughtimetomaintainheruniform
which comprises of cotton clothes that are most comfortable to wear specially in
summers.Youmusthavenoticedthatallthecottonfabricsgetcrushedveryeasily.What
shouldBhanwarido?Thereisafinishcalledwash‘n’wearwhichwhenappliedon
cottonfabricscompletelychangesitsnature.Thefabricthustreateddoesnotwrinkle
toomuchandbecomeseasytomaintain.Ifdriedandstoredproperly,wash‘n’wear
fabricscanbewornwithoutironingorwithalittleironing. So,Bhanwarishouldselect
awash‘n’wearfabricforheruniform.Besidescotton,wash‘n’wearfinishisalsogiven
tolinenandwool.
(v) Dyeing and Printing
Inthemarketyouseeanumberoffabricsinplaincoloursorhavingcolourfuldesigns
onthem.Theprocessofproducingcoloursanddesignsonafabriciscalleddyeingand
printing,respectively.Dyeinggivesasolidcolourtothefabricwhereasprintingisthe
applicationofdyeonspecifiedareastocreatedesigns.Itisveryimportantforthedyed
andprintedfabrictobe‘colourfast’,i.e.thecolourshouldnotcomeoutorfadeeasily.
Ifthecolourrunsonwashing,rubbingorironing,thefabriclooksshabbyandoldand
itsdesignbecomesdullorsmudged.Thecolourmayalsospoilotherfabricsduring
washing.Hasthiseverhappenedtoyou?
INTEXT QUESTIONS 11.2
1. State True or False and explain if the answer is false.
(True/False) (i) Scouringisafinishusedtocleanthefabric.
____________________________________________
(True/False) (ii) Bleachinghasnodamagingeffectonfabric.
____________________________________________
(True/False) (iii) Shrinkagecontrolcanbedoneathomealso.
____________________________________________
(True/False) (iv) Organdyisapermanentlystifffabric.
____________________________________________
(True/False) (v) Mercerizedthreadshouldbeusedforstitching.
____________________________________________

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2. Fill the blanks with the suitable word given at the end of each sentence
(i) Mercerisationisa________finish.(renewable/durable).
(ii) Shrinkage control is indicated as __________ on the label. (sanforised /
parchmentisation)
(iii) Washnwearisa________finish.(routine/special)
(iv) Ifthecolourdoesnotbleedonwashing,itmeansfabricis____________
_________. (water proof / colour fast)
11.5. DYEING AND PRINTING OF FABRIC
Canyouimaginewearingaplainwhitedressoronehavingsameprinteveryday? No,
never,eventheverythoughtisunwelcome. Itisverydifficulttothinkoffabricwithout
variationincolours,printsordesigns.
Inthemarket,youwillfindfabricinalltintsandshadesofcolours,smallandbigprints,
wovenincolourfuldesigns. Allthesearepossiblebecauseofdyeingandprinting.
Dyeingandprintingimproveappearanceoffabricandadddiversitytoourdresses
throughcoloursanddesigns. Weusuallydistinguishonefabricfromanotherbyits
colour,printandtexture.
11.5.1 Types of Dyes Used for Textiles Finishing
Dyesareusedfordyeingandprintingoftextiles. Dyesaredividedintotwomajor
categories–naturalandsyntheticdyes.
(i) NaturalDyes–Thesewerethefirstdyesknowntomankind.Theseareobtained
fromnaturalsources–vegetables,animalsorminerals. Theseareeco-friendlyand
do not pollute water or land. The residue of these dyes can be safely used as
fertilizerinthefields.Buttheprocessofdyeingwithnaturaldyesisslow,difficult
and expensive. Major natural dyes obtained from plants are turmeric (haldi),
henna(mehndi),madder(manjishta)andindigo(neel).Whiletyrianpurpleand
lacdyesareobtainedfromanimalsources. Khakhidyecomesfromamineral
source.
(ii) SyntheticDyes–Thesedyesarepreparedsyntheticallywiththehelpofdifferent
chemicals. Thesedifferintheirchemicalcompositionandbehaviour. Popular
classesofsyntheticdyesare–direct,basic,acid,disperse,azo,vatandreactive
dyes.Thesedyescausealotofpollutionandskinallergiesetc.Someofthesedyes
suchasazoareveryharmfulforhumanhealthandtheirusehasbeenbanned.
Syntheticdyesareveryeasytouseandhavebetterfastnessthannaturaldyes.
Thesealsogiveabrighterandlargercolourrange.

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Notes
11.5.2 Application of Dyes
Inthemarket,wefinditisnotonlyfabrics,whicharecolourful,butsewingthreads,
knitting yarns and cords, etc. are also available in various colours. Therefore, the
processofdyeingiscarriedoutontextilesatthefibre,yarnoratfabricstage.Different
stagesatwhichtextilesaredyedinclude–
(i) FibreStage–Thoughalltypesoffibrescanbe
dyedatthisstage,themethodismorepopularfor
dyeingmanmadefibres. Itgivesuniformdyeing
anditiscolourfast. Thereisalotofwastageof
colouredfibresduringsubsequentprocessing.
(ii) YarnStage–Colourcanbeappliedorrendered
(populartermusedintextiledyeing)onfibres
afterspinningintoyarns,especiallywhentheyhavetobesoldassuch. Knitting
yarnsandalltypesofthreads–sewing,embroidery,crocheting,etc.aredyedat
thisstage.
(iii) FabricStage–Mostofthedyeinginthetextile
industryisdoneatthisstage,andfabricsaredyed
in one solid colour. It gives uniform colouring.
Colourmatchingbecomeseasieratthisstage. This
methodisalsosuitablefordyeingblendedfabric.
Blendsaremadebymixingtwofibrestogetherand
thenmadeintoayarnandfabric.
(iv) GarmentDyeing–Sometimesdyeingisdoneatthis
stagei.e.afterthegarmentshavebeenstitched.This
is also known as piece dyeing. Since a garment is
dyed,thereisnofabricwastage.Butthecolourmay
notbeuniform,especiallyaroundseams,pleatsand
gathers.Ifyouhaveagarmentwhichhasbeendyed
justnow,openonepleatorseam.Youwillfindthat
fabric inside the seam will be lighter or darker
dependingonthetimeandexposureoffabrictothe
dyeing medium.
11.5.3 Decorative Dyeing
Youalreadyknowaboutsimpledyeing. Whentheprocessofdyeingiscarriedoutin
aselectivewaytogetdifferentdesigns,itiscalleddecorativeorresistdyeing. Theterm
resistdyeingisusedbecauseinthesetechniques,someresistmaterials(threads,yarns
or wax) are used on specific areas to prevent them from being dyed. Anumber of
beautifuldesignscanbecreatedinthismanner. Thetwomostpopulartechniquesof
Fig. 11.1
Fig. 11.2
Fig. 11.3

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decorativeorresistdyeingare–
(i) TieandDye
(ii) Batik
(i) Tie and Dye
Intieanddye,threadsareusedasaresistmaterialtostopthedyefromenteringthe
selectedareasofthefabric. Tyingofthefabricisdoneaccordingtothedesigntobe
made. There are many ways in which you can
createdesignsusingtieanddyetechnique.These
are –
a) Marbling:Takethefabricandcrumbleitto
formaball. Tieitwithathreadatdifferent
areas,randomly.Thendyethefabric.Open
itanddry. Thedyedfabricwillhaveamarble
effect.
b) Binding:Pickupthefabric(Duptatta,
table cloth or bed sheets) from one
pointandtiewithathreadatintervals
anddyeit.
c) Knotting : Put knots on the fabrics
whereverdesiredanddyeit.
d) Folding:Putthefabricflatonatable. Pleat
andfoldituniformlyinlengthwisedirection.
Tie it with a yarn at regular intervals, to get
widthwiselinesafterdyeing. Forhorizontal
lines,pleatandfoldthefabricwidthwise. Roll
thefabricfromonecornertothediagonally
oppositecornerandtieatregularintervalsto
getdiagonallines.
Fig.11.4:Marbling
Fig.11.5:Binding
Fig.11.6:Knotting
Fig.11.7 Folding

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Notes
e) PegTying:Youcanalsouseclothpegsorclampsasresist
materials.Foldthefabricandputpegsatregularinterval.
f) Tritik:Makeadesignofyourchoiceonthefabricwith
runningstitch,pullthe threadtightlyandtieit.
TiedandDyedFabrics
PatolafabricsofGujaratandbandhaniofRajasthanaretwofamoustraditional
textilesofIndiamadebytieanddyetechnique. Bothareusuallydyedintwoormore
dyesbyresistdyeingtechniques.Butthereisadifferencebetweenthestagesat
whichtheyaretiedanddyed.
InPatolatheyarnistiedanddyedaccordingtothedesignbeforeweavingandare
thenwoventoformintricatemulti-coloureddesigns.
Ontheotherhand,wovenfabricistiedanddyedtohaveinnumerabledotsandlines
(laheria-wavypattern)inBandhni.
ACTIVITY 11.4
Diptiwashappyasshewasfinallyabletobuyasareewithbeautifultieanddyedesign
onit.ShewashappyalsobecausehersareewasmuchcheaperthanherfriendNidhi’s
saree.Sheproudlyexhibitedherpossessiontoeverybodyathomeandshealsobragged
thatitissoinexpensive.Howeverhermotheraskedhertothinkaboutthepossible
reasonforhersareebeingpricedsolow.
Discussthefollowing:
– WhatcouldbethereasonsforNidhi’ssareebeingmoreexpensive?
– Howcanyoudifferentiatebetweenagenuineandafakepieceoftieanddye?
– Could the place of production and/or sale outlet also
influencethepriceofDipti’ssaree?
(ii) Batik
Batikisalsoamethodofresistdyeing. Here,waxisusedas
a resist material to prevent the dye from colouring certain
areas.Onselectedareasofthefabric,amixtureofBees’wax
andparaffinwaxisfilledwithabrushorablock,accordingto
Fig.11.8 Tritik
Fig. 11.9

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thedesign. Theseareasdonotgetcolouredwhendyedgivingapatternedeffect. The
waxislaterremoved.
11.5.4 Printing
Let’susseeandunderstandhowprintingoffabricsiscarriedout?Keeptwofabricsside
byside,onearedcolouredfabricandtheotherafabrichavingredprint.Observethe
differencebetweenthetwocarefully. Thoughboththefabricshaveredcolour,butthe
dyedfabricisredalloverwhileintheprintedone,onlycertainareasareofredcolour.
Thisclearlyshowsthedifferencebetweendyeingandprinting. Youalreadyknowthat
dyeingistheprocessofcolouringthefabric. Printingisalsoaprocessofcolouringthe
fabricbutherecolourisappliedonlyinselectedareas,tocreatedesignswhichdecorate
thefabricsurface.
Themajordifferencebetweendyeingandprintingisthatdyeingiscarriedoutinfibre,
yarnoratfabricstagebutprintingisdoneonlyonthefabricsurface.Thisisalsoknown
asselectivedyeing.
Popularmethodsortechniquesofprintingare–
Blockprinting
Screenprinting
Rollerprinting
Stencilprinting
Block printing and batik are two traditional
printingmethods.Here,wewilllearnthedetails
ofonlyonetypeofprintingi.e.BlockPrinting.
Block Printing
Have you ever gone to a post office and
observedlettersorparcelsbeingstamped.
Thestampisfirstpressedintoaninkpad
and then onto the letter or parcel. Block
printingissimilartothis. Hereawooden
block,whichhasadesignengravedonit,is
pressed into a thick dye paste and then
stampedontothefabric.Donotworryif
you do not have a wooden block.
Youcanfollowthesameprocedureforprintingathomeusingeasilyavailableobjects
inplaceofablocks. Takeanyvegetablelikeladies’fingeroronionorgourd(torai),
SanganerinRajasthan(nearJaipur)is
famous for Block Printing.
ShantinektaninWestBengalisknown
for Batik.
Fig. 11.10

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Notes
cutanduseitasablock.Evenbowl,glassesleavesandflowerscanalsobeusedfor
printing.
Fig. 11.11
ACTIVITY11.4
Tomakeablockprintedarticleathome,takeafewpiecesofladies’finger,onionand
a few leaves to be used as blocks. Spread a 10//
x 10//
fabric on a flat and padded
surface. Pourfabricpaintsinasmallflatcontainer. Dipyourhomemadeblocksinpaint
andpressthemonthefabrics. Youcanmakedifferentdesignswiththesameblockby
changingitsplacement.
INTEXT QUESTIONS 11.3
1. Fill in the blanks :
(i) Vegetables and animal dyes are known as ______________.(natural/
artificial)
(ii) Tyrianpurpledyeisobtainedfrom_____________source.(natural/animal)
(iii) Fibredyeingismorepopularin_____________fibres.(man-made/synthetic)
(iv) Tieanddyeis_________________dyeing.(resist/discharge)
(v) Athomefabriccanbedecoratedeasilyby____________printing.(bolck/
roller)

15. MODULE - 1
Home Science in Daily Life
203
FabricFinishes
HOME SCIENCE
Notes
2. Look at the grid given below, followed by statements. The answer to each
statementisinasingleword.Fillthewordinthegridatitsrespectivenumber.The
firstoneisdoneforyou.
CROSS WORDS
I. Itisachemicaltreatmentgiventoafibre,yarnorfabrictoremoveyellowing.
II. Thetermusedforfabricsthatcomedirectlyfromloom.
III. Alsoknownaswetfinishes.
IV. Itmakesfabricheavier,stiffandcrisp.
V. Itmakescottonfabricseasytomaintain.
VI. Itisoneofthetieanddyetechnique.
WHAT HAVE YOU LEARNT
Foryourconvenience,herearethemainpointsofthelesson:-
Textile Finishes -Meaning
-Importanceinrelationtotextiles
-Classificationoffinishesonthebasisof their-
Basicfunctions
Basic finishes:- Degreeofperformance
i) Scouring Nature(wetanddry)
ii) Bleaching
iii) Starching
iv) Calendering
Specialfinishes:-
i) Pre-shrinking
ii) Mercerization
iii) Parchmentisation
iv) Wash‘n’wear
v) Dyeingandprinting
• Naturalandsyntheticdyes
• Stagesofdyeapplication
• Decorativedyeing
• Printing
V.I.
VI.
III.
II.
IV.
B
L
E
A
C
H
I
N
G

16. HOME SCIENCE
MODULE - 1 FabricFinishes
Home Science in Daily Life
204
Notes
TERMINAL EXERCISE
1. Whatisatextilefinish?Whyisitnecessarytoapplyonfabric?
2. Howdoesagrayfabricdifferfromafinishedfabric?
3. Describeanytwobasicfinishesandtheirapplication.
4. ThesewingthreadRitubroughthadthelabelmercerized?Givetheadvantagesof
‘mercerization’andexplaintheprocessofmercerizationtoRitu.
5. “Dyeingisfinishingwithcolour”.Explain.
6. Differentiatebetweennaturalandsyntheticdyes.
7. Youhavejustbroughtashirtthathasalabel“Piecedyed”.Whatdoyouunderstand
fromit?Whataretheothermethodsofdyeingtextiles?
8. Describebatikandblockprinting.
ANSWERS TO INTEXT QUESTIONS
11.1 i)Finishes ii)Gray iii)Dyeingandprinting
iv)Wetfinish v)Functional
11.2
1. i) True, scouring is washing fabric with soap and chemicals to remove all
impurities
ii) False,Bleachinghastobedoneverycarefully.Itdestroysthecolour.Strong
bleachcandamagethefabrictosomeextent.
iii) True,soakingthefabricovernightanddryingitcausesshinkage.
iv) True,thisisduetoapermanentfinishcalledParchmentisation.
v) True,mercerizationmakescottonsmooth,shinyandstrong.
2. i) Durable ii) Sanforised iii) Special iv) Colourfast
11.3
1. i) Natural dyes ii) Animal iii) Man-made
iv) Resist v) Block.
2 i) Bleaching ii) Graygoods iii) Chemicalfinish
iv)Starch v) Wash ‘N’Wear vi) Binding