Garment Dyeing Guide for Apparel Finish and Care

Apparel Finish and Care

UNIT – I
GARMENT DYEING

 GARMENT DYEING

 FABRIC SELECTION

 SEWING THREAD SELECTION

 ACCESSORIES SELECTION

 DYE SELECTION

 GARMENT DYEING MACHINERY

Dept. Dept.of Fashion Tech KCT, Coimbatore.
KCT, of Fashion Technology,


GARMENT DYEING

What is garment dyeing?

 Garment dyeing is the process of dyeing fully fashioned garments.
(such as pants, pullovers, t-shirts, jeans, sweaters, dresses,
bathrobes, casual jackets, shirts, skirts, hosieries)

 As opposed to the conventional method of manufacturing garments
from pre-dyed fabrics.

 Most garments are made of cotton knit goods and/or cotton woven
fabrics.

 Although several other fabrics can be found in the whole or in part
such as wool, nylon, silk, acrylic, polyester and others.

 Due to cost savings and fashion trends, garment dyeing has been
gaining importance and popularity in the past years and will
continue to do so in the future.



GARMENT DYEING

Need of garment dyeing

Traditionally, garments are constructed from fabrics that are pre
dyed (piece dyed) before the actual cutting and sewing.

 The advantage of this process is the cost effectiveness of mass
producing identical garments of particular colors.
 Quick Response to the market (bar coding etc.,)
 Ability to supply a wide range of colorations to the retailer, but
only in the shades that are selling
 Reduced discounted sales at inventory
 Best way to achieved relaxed, casual look
 Ability to create special effects such as tie dyed, pigment dyed
and washed down in a single process etc.,

 A major drawback with this approach is the risk associated
with carrying a large inventory of a particular style or color
in today's dynamic market.



Special considerations to garment dyer

- Very good communications between all parties involved
- Preparation - may be done on piece goods or on garments clean
substrate for dyeing reduced shrinkage (preferably squared) for
wovens should be less than 5% for knits should be less than 8%
- Metal components should be non-ferrous pewter buttons are
acceptable
- Non-metal components that are not sensitive to dye chemistry or
temperatures at a boil are acceptable
- polyester zippers, buttons, etc. which are clear or predyed tie dyed
splatter dyed
- weathered pigment dye and wash down in a single process nickel
plated brass zippers are acceptable
- Velcro - clear or predyed
- special polyamide buttons which are dyeable
- Threads must be of same fiber as the fabric in the garment or
"grinning" will occur.
- Pre dyed threads may be used
- Corespun threads with a strength or stretch yam in the core and the
desired fiber on the outside
- Covered threads may be used
- "Tacking" of sleeves and pant legs to prevent tangling


GARMENT DYEING

Categories of Garment Dyeing

• The dyeing of the garments requires more care than the dyeing of
the fabric, though there is very little difference in the dyeing
procedures. This is due to the fact that processing of garments
involves value added goods.

• The entire garment dyeing activities may be broken down in to four
categories:

1. Fully fashioned garment dyeing carried out by major dyers and
finishers

3. Cut and sewn garment covering woven and knitted fabrics.

1. Dyeing of 100% cotton goods for boutique trade suitable for
hand washing. and

• Washing, desizing, bleaching denim goods, leading to stone
wash, snow wash, over dyeing and highlighting effects.



GARMENT DYEING

Advantages of Garment Dyeing Disadvantages of Garment Dyeing

 Flexibility towards fast changing  Labour intensive process and
market trends requires thorough checking of
every piece
 Quick response and rapid
turnaround  Higher “seconds” rate
 Flexibility towards dye shades
 Poor appearance
and finishes

 Flexibility of lot size  Poor reproducibility of shades

 Flexibility of items to be dyed  Special care in the selection of
fittings
 Comparatively less rejection
 More material handling
 Low inventory

 Less capital investments

 Fancy effects



SELECTION OF FABRIC

 Lots or batches of greige fabric must be selected that will dye up
identical in shade.

 Loom state fabric must be converted into RFD (ready for Dyeing)
Stage.

- Desized, Scoured for dark colours,
- Desized, Scoured and bleached for light colours

To get the best-looking garments.

- Desized, Scoured, bleached and Mercerized

 For heavily swelling fibres such as cotton, the elasticized areas, waist
bands and cuffs, must be fairly slack, and seams should not be too
tight or bulky.



SELECTION OF FABRIC

 Shrinking behavior of the fabric must be uniform before garment
dyeing.

 Articles which are prone to Crease marks or Pilling effects should be
turned inside out and dyed with the addition of a non-foaming lubricant
while adopting the shortest possible dyeing process.

 Fabrics should be free from foreign materials (Contamination)

 The interlinings used are to be checked for their performance to satisfy
the requirement.
- Dyes to be taken as same as the outer fabric.
- The gum should not be removed off from the surface
- The resin in the interlinings should not make adverse
effect on the dyeing color.



SELECTION OF ACCESSORIES

 Buttons, Studs and Zippers:
 Free from Nickel
 Polyester buttons for pre determined colors.
 Nylon preferred
 Wooden to be verified before usage.
 Brass, antiq brass, silver, gun metal, golden zippers can be used
and to be checked before the bulk process.
 Studs and Buttons may be used after dyeing of the garment most
of the cases to avoid breakages and damages to the fabric.

 Care Labels& Embroideries
 Care labels to be used are to be good in fastness properties.
 It should not absorb the dyes from the bath.
 Polyester care labels are mostly used.
 A pouch may be used to avoid dye penetration on the care labels.
 Embroidery threads are used as polyester threads for pre
confirmed colors.
 If the effect is required, then RFD cotton yarn is used for the
embroidery as like sewing threads.



SELECTION OF SEWING THREAD

 Cotton thread is preferred in most of the garment dyeing.
 They should be of same lot.
 Polyester threads can be used only in pre determined
colors.
 Nylon threads can be used. Proper care should be taken in
maintaining consistency.
 Sewing threads to be of high strength to withstand the
required seam strength.
 Mostly heavy threads than normal polyester threads are
used.
 Should be free from hairiness.
 Threads with low tension to be applied while sewing to
balance the shrinkage of threads.
 Depending upon the requirement, the thread numbers can
be used.
 Core spun yarn also be used for better performance of
seams.



SELECTION OF SEWING

Sewing Recommendations:

 Stitch density
 Thread Tension
 Stitch and Seam type
 Needle size



GARMENT DYEING MACHINES

Garment dyeing machines

There are two types of equipment regularly used for garment dyeing.

1. Paddle machines

 A high liquor ratio is required for paddle machines, which is less
economical and may limit shade reproducibility.

2. Rotary drums

 Rotary drum machines are sometimes preferred for garments,
which require gentler handling, such as sweaters.

 Many machinery companies have developed sophisticated rotary
dyeing machines, which incorporate state-of-the-art technology.




Types of Machines
• Paddle machines:

A. Horizontal Paddle Machine
B. Lateral / oval paddle
C. HT Paddle Machines

7. Rotary drums

A. Rotary Drum Dyeing Machine
B. Tumbler Dyeing Machine

3. Toroid Dyeing Machine

• Modified Pegg Toroid Whiteley garment dyeing
machine

• The Gyrobox

• The MCS Readymade garment dyeing machine
7. Leemetals epicyclic Paddle dyeing machine




1. PADDLE DYEING MACHINE

Working Principle:

 A process of dyeing textiles in a machine that gently move
the goods using paddles similar to a paddle wheel on a
boat.

 This is a slow process, but there is extremely little abrasion
on the goods.




1A. Horizontal Paddle Machines

 (over head paddle machine)
Paddle consist of a curved beck like lower
Wheel suction to contain the materials
and the dye liquor.

 The goods are moved by a rotating
paddle, which extends across the
width of the machine.

 Half immersed paddles cause the
material to move upwards and
Drain downwards through out the liquor.

 The temperature can be raised to
98o C in such system.




1B. Lateral / oval paddle
Peddle
 This machines consist of oval tank
to enhance the fluid flow and the
processing the goods.

 In the middle of this tank is a
closed oval island.
Island
 The paddle moves in a lateral
direction and is not half
Circulation submerged in the liquor.

Dye Bath
 The temperature can be increased
up to 98o C.




1 ． Trough body 1C. HT Paddle Machines
2 ． Slurry disk
3 ． Door
4 ． Charging  It works according to the
bucket principle of horizontal paddle
5 ． Thermometer
6 ． Indirect heating
machine.
valve
7 ． Direct heating  however, the temperature can
valve
8 ． Trough body be raised up to 140o C.
water supply
valve
9 ． Trough body  PES articles are preferably
drainage valve dyed on HT paddles.
10. Cooling
drainage valve
11. Drainage
controller



General Parameters & Features

In paddle machines,
 The dyeing can be carried out with 30:1 to 40:1 Liquor to Material
Ratio.

 Lower ratios reduces optimum movement of the goods, lead to
unleveled dyeing, crease formation.

 For gentleness, the blades of the paddle are either curved or have
rounded edges.

 The rotating speed of the paddle can be regulated from 1.5 to 40
rpm.

 Circulation of the liquor should be strong enough to prevent goods
from sinking to the bottom.

 Paddle machines are suitable for dyeing articles of all substrates in
all forms of make ups.

 The goods are normally dyed using PP/PET bags.




2A. Rotary Drum Dyeing Machine
Door
 “Movement of textile material and a
stationary liquor”.

 The rotary drum dyeing machine
Steam Pipe consists of rotating perforated
cylindrical drum , which rotates
slowly inside a vessel of slightly
bigger in size.

 The internal drum is divided into
compartments to ensure rotation of
goods with the drum rotation.

 The outer vessel holds the required
quantity of dye liquor.

 High temperature drum machines are
capable of processing the garments
up to 140o C.



Features of modern rotary-dyeing Machine

3. Lower liquor ratio
5. Gentle movement of goods and liquor (minimizes surface abrasion)
7. Rapid heating and cooling
9. Centrifugal extraction
11. Variable drum speed with reversal capability
(adaptable to a wide variety of goods)
14. Continuous circulation of goods (improves migration control)
16. Ease of sampling
18. Variable water levels with overflow rinsing capabilities
20. Large diameter feed and discharge lines
(minimizes filling and draining time)
23. Microprocessor controls
25. Lint filters
27. Pressure dyeing
13. Auto-balancing drums




General Parameters & Features of Rotary Machine

One feature that can be used to reduce abrasion on delicate
garments or to minimize tangling is a compartmental chamber,
sometimes referred to as a "Y" pocket.

 The rotary drum machines are very simple to operate and are
quite compact in size.

 The cost of unit is also not high .

Drum dyeing-centrifuging machines are also called

- “multipurpose drum machines” or
- “multi-rapid dyeing centrifuging machines”

 since these machines can perform scouring, dyeing, centrifuging
and conditioning successively with automated controls.




Working Features of Rotary Machine

 The goods are treated in a perforated inner drum housed
within an outer drum (dyeing tank).

 Inner drums without dividing walls are provided with ribs
that carry the goods along for a certain time, partially lifting
them up out of the liquor.

 These machines can operate at very low liquor ratios and
can dye the goods up to 98 -140o C.

 This is suitable for knits as well as other garments.

 Liquor circulation can be intensified using additional jets.

 Drums can be rotated in both the directions.




2B. Tumbler Dyeing Machine

 These machines are being used for
small garments either in loose form
or in open mesh bags.

 Design wise the tumbler dyeing
machines are similar to the
commercial laundering machines.

 The principle of operation is to load
the material into perforated inner SS
tanks , which rotates round a
horizontal shaft fixed at the back of
the drum.

 The drum is divided into
compartments for moving the goods
with rotation of drum.




General Parameters & Features of Tumbler Dyeing Machine

 A variety of tumbling machines have higher rotation speeds
and can spin dry at the end of the cycle.

 These are similar to dry-cleaning machines.
Rotating drum machines are more efficient and cleaner to
operate than paddle machines.

 The more vigorous mechanical action often promotes more
shrinkage and bulking, which may be desirable for some
articles.

 In order to handle higher quantities and large production of
similar pieces the latest machines are provided with several
automatic features and sophistications.




3. Toroid Dyeing Machine
 In these machines the garments
circulate in the liquor in a toroidal
path with the aid of an impeller
situated below the perforated false
bottom of the vessel.
 Movement of the goods depends
completely on the pumped action of
the liquor.
 High-temperature versions of this
machine operating at 120 to 130°C
were developed in the 1970s for
dyeing fully-fashioned polyester or
triacetate garments.

 The liquor ratio of such machines is
about 30:1.




1. Modified Pegg Toroid Whiteley garment dyeing
machine

 This is an improved version of Toroid machines , the
additional features are:

 The machine is suitable for both atmospheric and
pressure dyeing.

 Full automation upto hydroextraction.

 The design features, speed and performance is
simplified to make the machine more versatile and free
from operating problems.




5.The Gyrobox

 The machine has support in the form of a large wheel, which
is divided into 12 independent non radial compartments.

 The goods are placed in these compartments .

 The wheel runs at a moderate speed of 2-6 rpm.

 The main advantage of this machine are,

1.Reduced M:L

2.Different types of garments can be dyed simulteneously .

3.Flexible loading

4.Fully automatic operation.




1. The MCS Readymade garment dyeing
machine

 The rotodye machines are suitable for dyeing
pure cotton, wool, polyester, cotton blends in
the form of T shirts, sweaters, bath rugs and
accessories , socks and stockings.

7. Leemetals epicyclic Paddle dyeing
machine.


Garment Dyeing Guide for Apparel Finish and Care

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