This project report summarizes work done on analyzing and minimizing spirality and shrinkage problems in knitted fabrics. It discusses raw materials used, yarn types and counts, subcontractors, and costs. It also provides an overview of the evolution of Bangladesh's knitting industry and its social and economic impacts. Key points are that spirality is caused by yarn twist and machine settings, while shrinkage is due to yarn swelling; both can be reduced through washing, drying, and fabric construction methods. The knitting industry is a major employer and exporter for Bangladesh.
This document discusses the effect of finishing processes on knit fabrics. It describes how finishing improves physical properties like feel, strength and shrinkage. The techniques of finishing depend on factors like the fabric composition and its intended end use. Common finishing treatments aim to impart properties like softness, luster and dimensional stability. The document then examines specific finishing stages like hydroextraction, drying, slitting, stenting and compacting. Graphs show how properties like GSM and shrinkage are affected differently for various fabric types as they progress through finishing. The discussion analyzes the results and references additional sources for information on textile finishing.
Raising is a mechanical process that uses revolving cylinders covered with metal points or abrasives to stand up the surface fibers of a fabric, creating a lofty texture. It is done on wet wool or dry cotton fabrics. Raising is used to create effects such as pile, fleece, peach skin, and a warmer, softer hand. There are two main types of raising machines - teasel raising machines and card wire raising machines. The two primary types of raising are napping, which uses metal wires to dig out fibers and create higher pile, and sueding, which uses abrasives like sandpaper for a lower, suede-like pile typically on silk fabrics.
This document describes Abdullah Al Mahfuj's profile and a presentation on measuring fabric stiffness. It introduces stiffness as a fabric property related to its ability to stand without support. The Shirley stiffness tester is described as an instrument used to measure fabric stiffness by determining the bending length of a fabric sample placed on an angled platform. The document provides specifications for the Shirley stiffness tester and describes the procedure to measure the bending length of cotton fabric samples in the warp and weft directions. The results show the bending length is 2.66 cm in the warp direction and 2.51 cm in the weft direction.
This document discusses different types of knitting machines and fabrics produced on them. It describes single jersey, pique, and fleece fabrics which are produced on single bed needle machines. Double knit machines have two beds of needles and can produce interlock, rib, and double jersey fabrics. Three thread fleece is made on fleece machines and has long loops on the back side, allowing for high brushing. Characteristics of two thread and three thread fleece fabrics are provided such as weight, yarn used, and fiber percentages. Common issues that can occur with fleece knitting and their remedies are also outlined.
Mercerization physical andchemical changes in cottonAdane Nega
The document summarizes the process of mercerization of cotton, which was discovered and patented by British chemist John Mercer in the 1850s. When cotton fabric is treated with a sodium hydroxide (NaOH) solution, it causes the cotton fibers to shrink. Later developments applied tension to the fabric during NaOH treatment to reduce shrinkage. By the 1890s, the process of mercerizing cotton yarn and fabric using tension had been commercialized. Mercerization causes physical and chemical changes in cotton fibers that increase their strength, luster, and dye absorption capacity.
ASTM International develops voluntary consensus standards for materials, products, systems and services. It has over 12,000 standards used globally. Some key apparel standards developed by ASTM include standards for performance of bonded apparel fabrics, men's dress suit fabrics, body measurements for sizing, flammability testing for children's sleepwear, and terminology for care labeling. The standards provide specifications and test methods to help apparel manufacturers ensure quality, safety and proper end use of textiles.
This document summarizes an experiment calculating the production capacity of a circular knitting machine. It provides equations for calculating the total fabric length, width, and production capacity based on machine parameters like diameter, gauge, speed, and fabric properties like weight and construction. When the equations are applied to a machine with a 23" diameter, 24 gauge, 35 RPM speed, and producing a 160 gsm plain single jersey fabric, the results show a production capacity of 63 meters of fabric per hour that is 1.33 meters wide, for a total production of 13.4 kg per hour or 107.2 kg per shift.
Importance, Effect & Testing of Yarn EvennessAmirul Eahsan
This document discusses irregularity or unevenness of fiber, which refers to variations in mass per unit length of a fiber assembly. It describes two common methods for measuring irregularity - the irregularity U% and the coefficient of variation C.V%. Several methods for measuring fiber irregularity are outlined, including visual inspection, cutting and weighing, and various testing machines like the Uster Evenness Tester and photoelectric testers. Irregular fibers can affect yarn strength, fabric appearance, and dyeing/finishing. Maintaining low irregularity is important for quality control in textile production.
This document discusses the effect of finishing processes on knit fabrics. It describes how finishing improves physical properties like feel, strength and shrinkage. The techniques of finishing depend on factors like the fabric composition and its intended end use. Common finishing treatments aim to impart properties like softness, luster and dimensional stability. The document then examines specific finishing stages like hydroextraction, drying, slitting, stenting and compacting. Graphs show how properties like GSM and shrinkage are affected differently for various fabric types as they progress through finishing. The discussion analyzes the results and references additional sources for information on textile finishing.
Raising is a mechanical process that uses revolving cylinders covered with metal points or abrasives to stand up the surface fibers of a fabric, creating a lofty texture. It is done on wet wool or dry cotton fabrics. Raising is used to create effects such as pile, fleece, peach skin, and a warmer, softer hand. There are two main types of raising machines - teasel raising machines and card wire raising machines. The two primary types of raising are napping, which uses metal wires to dig out fibers and create higher pile, and sueding, which uses abrasives like sandpaper for a lower, suede-like pile typically on silk fabrics.
This document describes Abdullah Al Mahfuj's profile and a presentation on measuring fabric stiffness. It introduces stiffness as a fabric property related to its ability to stand without support. The Shirley stiffness tester is described as an instrument used to measure fabric stiffness by determining the bending length of a fabric sample placed on an angled platform. The document provides specifications for the Shirley stiffness tester and describes the procedure to measure the bending length of cotton fabric samples in the warp and weft directions. The results show the bending length is 2.66 cm in the warp direction and 2.51 cm in the weft direction.
This document discusses different types of knitting machines and fabrics produced on them. It describes single jersey, pique, and fleece fabrics which are produced on single bed needle machines. Double knit machines have two beds of needles and can produce interlock, rib, and double jersey fabrics. Three thread fleece is made on fleece machines and has long loops on the back side, allowing for high brushing. Characteristics of two thread and three thread fleece fabrics are provided such as weight, yarn used, and fiber percentages. Common issues that can occur with fleece knitting and their remedies are also outlined.
Mercerization physical andchemical changes in cottonAdane Nega
The document summarizes the process of mercerization of cotton, which was discovered and patented by British chemist John Mercer in the 1850s. When cotton fabric is treated with a sodium hydroxide (NaOH) solution, it causes the cotton fibers to shrink. Later developments applied tension to the fabric during NaOH treatment to reduce shrinkage. By the 1890s, the process of mercerizing cotton yarn and fabric using tension had been commercialized. Mercerization causes physical and chemical changes in cotton fibers that increase their strength, luster, and dye absorption capacity.
ASTM International develops voluntary consensus standards for materials, products, systems and services. It has over 12,000 standards used globally. Some key apparel standards developed by ASTM include standards for performance of bonded apparel fabrics, men's dress suit fabrics, body measurements for sizing, flammability testing for children's sleepwear, and terminology for care labeling. The standards provide specifications and test methods to help apparel manufacturers ensure quality, safety and proper end use of textiles.
This document summarizes an experiment calculating the production capacity of a circular knitting machine. It provides equations for calculating the total fabric length, width, and production capacity based on machine parameters like diameter, gauge, speed, and fabric properties like weight and construction. When the equations are applied to a machine with a 23" diameter, 24 gauge, 35 RPM speed, and producing a 160 gsm plain single jersey fabric, the results show a production capacity of 63 meters of fabric per hour that is 1.33 meters wide, for a total production of 13.4 kg per hour or 107.2 kg per shift.
Importance, Effect & Testing of Yarn EvennessAmirul Eahsan
This document discusses irregularity or unevenness of fiber, which refers to variations in mass per unit length of a fiber assembly. It describes two common methods for measuring irregularity - the irregularity U% and the coefficient of variation C.V%. Several methods for measuring fiber irregularity are outlined, including visual inspection, cutting and weighing, and various testing machines like the Uster Evenness Tester and photoelectric testers. Irregular fibers can affect yarn strength, fabric appearance, and dyeing/finishing. Maintaining low irregularity is important for quality control in textile production.
Spirality and shrinkage are common problems in knitted fabrics that can be influenced by various factors. [1] Spirality occurs when wales are not perpendicular to courses and is affected by yarn twist, count, fabric structure, and machine settings. [2] Shrinkage is a decrease in length or width upon washing and is mainly due to yarn swelling; it can be impacted by GSM, stitch length, and fabric type. [3] The document discusses measuring and reducing spirality and shrinkage through parameters like yarn and fabric properties as well as processing methods.
This presentation summarizes the process of sizing for textiles. Sizing involves applying a coating to warp yarns to minimize breakage during weaving. The objectives of sizing are to increase smoothness, strength and elasticity while reducing hairiness. Common sizing ingredients include starch, softeners, binders and antiseptics. Different types of sizing are used depending on the fabric, from pure to heavy. Sizing techniques include hot melt, solvent and foam methods. Key parts of a sizing machine and common sizing faults are also outlined.
This document provides guidelines for sampling procedures when testing cotton fibers to determine their quality properties. It discusses:
- The need for representative sampling due to natural variations in fiber properties within and between cotton bales.
- Procedures for obtaining a gross sample by drawing tufts from 10 equally spaced layers across randomly selected bales based on the lot size.
- Reducing the gross sample size by spreading it out and randomly pulling tufts weighing about 4g from 25 sub-squares of a 1m x 1m area or 2g from 50 sub-squares of a 1m x 2m area.
- Further reducing the reduced sample into 25 or 50 approximately equal parts for fiber testing.
Yarn count expresses the coarseness or fineness of yarn and is measured using various systems. There are indirect and direct count systems, with indirect systems like cotton using length per unit weight and direct systems like jute using weight per unit length. Various instruments can measure count, including the quadrant balance for short lengths, warp reel and balance method for longer lengths, and Beesley's balance for small fabric samples. Count affects properties like thickness and strength and is an important consideration in textile manufacturing.
Textile testing involves measuring properties and characteristics of textiles using techniques, tools, instruments, and machines in the laboratory. It is important for quality control in the textile industry and helps establish standards and specifications. There are various sampling techniques used for textile testing depending on the form of the material (fiber, yarn, fabric), amount of material, type of test, and information required. Random sampling aims to select samples randomly to represent the bulk material, while biased sampling may be influenced by other factors. Common fiber sampling techniques include squaring, cut squaring, and zoning to select representative samples.
This document discusses two types of resin finishes for fabrics: deposition and cross-linking. Deposition resins coat fabric surfaces without reacting with fibers, while cross-linking resins chemically react with and bond fiber molecules. The preparation and application of urea-formaldehyde resin is described as an example of cross-linking resin finishing, involving padding the fabric with resin solution, drying, curing at high heat to polymerize the resin, washing off excess, and final softening and drying.
This document discusses testing methods for pilling and abrasion resistance of fabrics. It describes that pilling is the formation of small balls of entangled fibers on fabric surfaces due to rubbing, and is influenced by fiber properties like strength and stiffness. Methods to measure pilling include objective counting/weighing of pills or subjective comparison to standards. Tests for pilling include the ICI pilling box method and Martindale abrasion tester. Abrasion resistance depends on fiber type, properties, yarn twist, and fabric structure, and is measured using the Martindale abrasion tester by recording cycles until thread breakage. Grading scales are used to assess levels of pilling and abrasion damage.
Quality control and testing are essential processes in the textile industry to ensure products meet specifications. There are several key steps:
1) Pretreatment processes like singeing, desizing, bleaching, and mercerization are tested for parameters like chemical concentrations, temperatures, and absorbency.
2) Dyeing and printing undergo physical tests for properties like colorfastness and chemical tests.
3) Finishing is tested for characteristics such as abrasion resistance, shrinkage, weather resistance, and burn resistance. Regular quality control and testing at all stages of production are vital for maintaining textile quality standards.
The document discusses the Advanced Fiber Information System (AFIS), which was developed to more accurately and precisely measure properties of raw textile materials like cotton. AFIS uses aeromechanical and electro-optical techniques to separate fibers and analyze them individually, providing distributions of properties rather than just average values. This gives more detailed information about factors like fiber length and imperfections. Specifically, AFIS can classify neps (entanglements) into fiber neps and seed coat neps, providing a more comprehensive quality assessment of ginning cotton and processed fibers.
This document compares ring spinning and rotor spinning methods of yarn formation. It discusses that rotor spinning is a more recent method that omits the step of forming a roving. In rotor spinning, fibers are fed into a rotary beater and deposited onto the sides of a rotating disc called a rotor, where they are twisted without requiring package rotation. Rotor spinning allows for higher twisting speeds with lower power usage compared to ring spinning. It provides characteristics like higher productivity, larger sliver/package sizes, less power consumption, and more automation/flexibility. The document provides details on the parts of a rotor spinning machine and compares various parameters of ring-spun and rotor-spun yarns.
This document discusses the importance and scope of fabric testing. It begins by explaining that textile fabrics are manufactured for different end uses, each with different performance requirements. Fabric testing plays a crucial role in assessing product quality, regulatory compliance, and performance. The document then discusses how fabric testing has expanded in scope due to increasing globalization and demands from consumers. It provides examples of different types of fabric tests, including physical, chemical, and performance tests. The document emphasizes that an understanding of fabric testing is important for various textile industry professionals to make informed decisions. In summary, the document outlines the wide-ranging role of fabric testing in evaluating textiles and ensuring they meet requirements for different applications.
Knitting is a method of fabric formation that involves interlocking loops of yarn. There are two main types of knitting - weft and warp. Weft knitting forms loops across the width of the fabric using a single yarn, while warp knitting forms loops along the length using multiple yarns. Common weft knits include plain, purl, rib, and interlock stitches which are used to make various garments and textiles. Warp knits like tricot and raschel are produced more quickly on specialized machines and can incorporate diverse yarn types and complex structures. Knitted fabrics have different properties depending on factors like stitch type, yarn used, and intended application.
Singeing is a process that burns off small fibers and fuzz from fabric surfaces to make them smoother. It helps prevent pilling, improves dyeing and appearance, and increases luster. There are three main types of singeing machines: plate, roller, and gas machines. Gas machines are most common and use burners to singe fabric as it passes through. Proper singeing requires controlling flame intensity, fabric speed, distance to flames, and other parameters to completely remove fibers without damaging the fabric. Issues like uneven singeing can result from moisture, flame or machine inconsistencies.
1. Mercerization is a finishing treatment for cotton that improves luster, hardness, and other properties by treating cotton with a strong alkaline solution.
2. It involves immersing cotton yarn or fabric under tension in a cold sodium hydroxide solution, then neutralizing it in acid. This causes swelling of the cotton fibers and increases their luster.
3. The ideal conditions for mercerization are a caustic concentration of 250-320 g/L at 18-20°C for 30-60 seconds, as this provides the best luster with minimal shrinkage.
Denim is a rugged cotton twill fabric most commonly used for jeans. It was invented in California in the 1850s by Levi Strauss and remains popular worldwide. Denim is made from cotton that is dyed blue using indigo dye before being woven. The manufacturing process involves spinning cotton yarn, dyeing the warp yarns blue with indigo, sizing the yarns, weaving the fabric using a twill weave, and finishing the fabric with treatments like stone washing to create different looks. Denim is versatile and commonly used for jeans, jackets, bags, upholstery and more. It remains one of the most popular fabrics globally.
This document is an assignment submission for a course on testing textiles. It describes an experiment conducted on a Yarn Lea Strength Tester to determine the strength of a cotton yarn sample. The experiment found that the yarn strength was 79.32 lbs/lea and the Count Strength Product (CSP) was 2379.6. Since the CSP was greater than the standard of 2200, the document concludes that the yarn sample had good strength fibers.
Pilling is formation of little balls of fibers (pills) on the surface of a fabric which is caused by abrasion in wear.
Pilling is the tendency of fibers to come loose from a fabric surface and form balled particles of fiber
Garment washing is a process used to modify the appearance, comfort, and fashion of garments. There are various types of washes that produce different effects on fabrics, such as vintage, cloud, and acid washes. The type of wash depends on the product - for example, denim requires heavy enzyme washes while knit tees may only need a light softener wash. Common garment washing steps include a desizing process, washing with chemicals like detergent and enzymes, rinsing, drying, and quality checking. Washing introduces effects like fading and increases garment softness and comfort for customers.
Mercerization is a process that treats cotton fabrics with a cold sodium hydroxide solution. This treatment causes the cotton fibers to swell and gives the fabric an increased luster and strength. John Mercer discovered the process in 1844, though it did not become popular until H.A. Lowe improved it in 1890 by preventing shrinkage during treatment. The modern process involves bathing cotton thread in sodium hydroxide then neutralizing it with an acid. This increases the thread's luster, strength, dye affinity, and mildew resistance. Mercerization results in fiber swelling and morphology changes that allow for more dye absorption and a brighter colored fabric with better color retention after washing.
The document discusses different types of shrinkage that can occur in fabrics including construction shrinkage, processing shrinkage, drying shrinkage, elastic shrinkage, and relaxation shrinkage. It also outlines factors that can influence shrinkage like yarn construction, weave/knit type, fiber content, and tensions during processing. The standard procedure for measuring fabric shrinkage involves marking samples before and after washing and drying to calculate the percentage change in dimensions.
Bow is a condition in knitted fabric where courses are displaced from a perpendicular line across the width, forming one or more arcs. Skew is where courses are angularly displaced from a perpendicular line. To measure bow, a straightedge is placed across the fabric and the distance between it and a marked yarn is measured parallel to the selvages. Skew is measured in three places by drawing a perpendicular line across the fabric and measuring distances between points where the line meets the selvages and a marked yarn. The maximum skew is calculated as a percentage of the fabric width.
Spirality and shrinkage are common problems in knitted fabrics that can be influenced by various factors. [1] Spirality occurs when wales are not perpendicular to courses and is affected by yarn twist, count, fabric structure, and machine settings. [2] Shrinkage is a decrease in length or width upon washing and is mainly due to yarn swelling; it can be impacted by GSM, stitch length, and fabric type. [3] The document discusses measuring and reducing spirality and shrinkage through parameters like yarn and fabric properties as well as processing methods.
This presentation summarizes the process of sizing for textiles. Sizing involves applying a coating to warp yarns to minimize breakage during weaving. The objectives of sizing are to increase smoothness, strength and elasticity while reducing hairiness. Common sizing ingredients include starch, softeners, binders and antiseptics. Different types of sizing are used depending on the fabric, from pure to heavy. Sizing techniques include hot melt, solvent and foam methods. Key parts of a sizing machine and common sizing faults are also outlined.
This document provides guidelines for sampling procedures when testing cotton fibers to determine their quality properties. It discusses:
- The need for representative sampling due to natural variations in fiber properties within and between cotton bales.
- Procedures for obtaining a gross sample by drawing tufts from 10 equally spaced layers across randomly selected bales based on the lot size.
- Reducing the gross sample size by spreading it out and randomly pulling tufts weighing about 4g from 25 sub-squares of a 1m x 1m area or 2g from 50 sub-squares of a 1m x 2m area.
- Further reducing the reduced sample into 25 or 50 approximately equal parts for fiber testing.
Yarn count expresses the coarseness or fineness of yarn and is measured using various systems. There are indirect and direct count systems, with indirect systems like cotton using length per unit weight and direct systems like jute using weight per unit length. Various instruments can measure count, including the quadrant balance for short lengths, warp reel and balance method for longer lengths, and Beesley's balance for small fabric samples. Count affects properties like thickness and strength and is an important consideration in textile manufacturing.
Textile testing involves measuring properties and characteristics of textiles using techniques, tools, instruments, and machines in the laboratory. It is important for quality control in the textile industry and helps establish standards and specifications. There are various sampling techniques used for textile testing depending on the form of the material (fiber, yarn, fabric), amount of material, type of test, and information required. Random sampling aims to select samples randomly to represent the bulk material, while biased sampling may be influenced by other factors. Common fiber sampling techniques include squaring, cut squaring, and zoning to select representative samples.
This document discusses two types of resin finishes for fabrics: deposition and cross-linking. Deposition resins coat fabric surfaces without reacting with fibers, while cross-linking resins chemically react with and bond fiber molecules. The preparation and application of urea-formaldehyde resin is described as an example of cross-linking resin finishing, involving padding the fabric with resin solution, drying, curing at high heat to polymerize the resin, washing off excess, and final softening and drying.
This document discusses testing methods for pilling and abrasion resistance of fabrics. It describes that pilling is the formation of small balls of entangled fibers on fabric surfaces due to rubbing, and is influenced by fiber properties like strength and stiffness. Methods to measure pilling include objective counting/weighing of pills or subjective comparison to standards. Tests for pilling include the ICI pilling box method and Martindale abrasion tester. Abrasion resistance depends on fiber type, properties, yarn twist, and fabric structure, and is measured using the Martindale abrasion tester by recording cycles until thread breakage. Grading scales are used to assess levels of pilling and abrasion damage.
Quality control and testing are essential processes in the textile industry to ensure products meet specifications. There are several key steps:
1) Pretreatment processes like singeing, desizing, bleaching, and mercerization are tested for parameters like chemical concentrations, temperatures, and absorbency.
2) Dyeing and printing undergo physical tests for properties like colorfastness and chemical tests.
3) Finishing is tested for characteristics such as abrasion resistance, shrinkage, weather resistance, and burn resistance. Regular quality control and testing at all stages of production are vital for maintaining textile quality standards.
The document discusses the Advanced Fiber Information System (AFIS), which was developed to more accurately and precisely measure properties of raw textile materials like cotton. AFIS uses aeromechanical and electro-optical techniques to separate fibers and analyze them individually, providing distributions of properties rather than just average values. This gives more detailed information about factors like fiber length and imperfections. Specifically, AFIS can classify neps (entanglements) into fiber neps and seed coat neps, providing a more comprehensive quality assessment of ginning cotton and processed fibers.
This document compares ring spinning and rotor spinning methods of yarn formation. It discusses that rotor spinning is a more recent method that omits the step of forming a roving. In rotor spinning, fibers are fed into a rotary beater and deposited onto the sides of a rotating disc called a rotor, where they are twisted without requiring package rotation. Rotor spinning allows for higher twisting speeds with lower power usage compared to ring spinning. It provides characteristics like higher productivity, larger sliver/package sizes, less power consumption, and more automation/flexibility. The document provides details on the parts of a rotor spinning machine and compares various parameters of ring-spun and rotor-spun yarns.
This document discusses the importance and scope of fabric testing. It begins by explaining that textile fabrics are manufactured for different end uses, each with different performance requirements. Fabric testing plays a crucial role in assessing product quality, regulatory compliance, and performance. The document then discusses how fabric testing has expanded in scope due to increasing globalization and demands from consumers. It provides examples of different types of fabric tests, including physical, chemical, and performance tests. The document emphasizes that an understanding of fabric testing is important for various textile industry professionals to make informed decisions. In summary, the document outlines the wide-ranging role of fabric testing in evaluating textiles and ensuring they meet requirements for different applications.
Knitting is a method of fabric formation that involves interlocking loops of yarn. There are two main types of knitting - weft and warp. Weft knitting forms loops across the width of the fabric using a single yarn, while warp knitting forms loops along the length using multiple yarns. Common weft knits include plain, purl, rib, and interlock stitches which are used to make various garments and textiles. Warp knits like tricot and raschel are produced more quickly on specialized machines and can incorporate diverse yarn types and complex structures. Knitted fabrics have different properties depending on factors like stitch type, yarn used, and intended application.
Singeing is a process that burns off small fibers and fuzz from fabric surfaces to make them smoother. It helps prevent pilling, improves dyeing and appearance, and increases luster. There are three main types of singeing machines: plate, roller, and gas machines. Gas machines are most common and use burners to singe fabric as it passes through. Proper singeing requires controlling flame intensity, fabric speed, distance to flames, and other parameters to completely remove fibers without damaging the fabric. Issues like uneven singeing can result from moisture, flame or machine inconsistencies.
1. Mercerization is a finishing treatment for cotton that improves luster, hardness, and other properties by treating cotton with a strong alkaline solution.
2. It involves immersing cotton yarn or fabric under tension in a cold sodium hydroxide solution, then neutralizing it in acid. This causes swelling of the cotton fibers and increases their luster.
3. The ideal conditions for mercerization are a caustic concentration of 250-320 g/L at 18-20°C for 30-60 seconds, as this provides the best luster with minimal shrinkage.
Denim is a rugged cotton twill fabric most commonly used for jeans. It was invented in California in the 1850s by Levi Strauss and remains popular worldwide. Denim is made from cotton that is dyed blue using indigo dye before being woven. The manufacturing process involves spinning cotton yarn, dyeing the warp yarns blue with indigo, sizing the yarns, weaving the fabric using a twill weave, and finishing the fabric with treatments like stone washing to create different looks. Denim is versatile and commonly used for jeans, jackets, bags, upholstery and more. It remains one of the most popular fabrics globally.
This document is an assignment submission for a course on testing textiles. It describes an experiment conducted on a Yarn Lea Strength Tester to determine the strength of a cotton yarn sample. The experiment found that the yarn strength was 79.32 lbs/lea and the Count Strength Product (CSP) was 2379.6. Since the CSP was greater than the standard of 2200, the document concludes that the yarn sample had good strength fibers.
Pilling is formation of little balls of fibers (pills) on the surface of a fabric which is caused by abrasion in wear.
Pilling is the tendency of fibers to come loose from a fabric surface and form balled particles of fiber
Garment washing is a process used to modify the appearance, comfort, and fashion of garments. There are various types of washes that produce different effects on fabrics, such as vintage, cloud, and acid washes. The type of wash depends on the product - for example, denim requires heavy enzyme washes while knit tees may only need a light softener wash. Common garment washing steps include a desizing process, washing with chemicals like detergent and enzymes, rinsing, drying, and quality checking. Washing introduces effects like fading and increases garment softness and comfort for customers.
Mercerization is a process that treats cotton fabrics with a cold sodium hydroxide solution. This treatment causes the cotton fibers to swell and gives the fabric an increased luster and strength. John Mercer discovered the process in 1844, though it did not become popular until H.A. Lowe improved it in 1890 by preventing shrinkage during treatment. The modern process involves bathing cotton thread in sodium hydroxide then neutralizing it with an acid. This increases the thread's luster, strength, dye affinity, and mildew resistance. Mercerization results in fiber swelling and morphology changes that allow for more dye absorption and a brighter colored fabric with better color retention after washing.
The document discusses different types of shrinkage that can occur in fabrics including construction shrinkage, processing shrinkage, drying shrinkage, elastic shrinkage, and relaxation shrinkage. It also outlines factors that can influence shrinkage like yarn construction, weave/knit type, fiber content, and tensions during processing. The standard procedure for measuring fabric shrinkage involves marking samples before and after washing and drying to calculate the percentage change in dimensions.
Bow is a condition in knitted fabric where courses are displaced from a perpendicular line across the width, forming one or more arcs. Skew is where courses are angularly displaced from a perpendicular line. To measure bow, a straightedge is placed across the fabric and the distance between it and a marked yarn is measured parallel to the selvages. Skew is measured in three places by drawing a perpendicular line across the fabric and measuring distances between points where the line meets the selvages and a marked yarn. The maximum skew is calculated as a percentage of the fabric width.
Shrinkage finishing for cellulosic fabricsRajeev Sharan
The document discusses several techniques for providing shrink proof and durable press finishes to cellulosic fabrics, including ultra high pressure treatment, corona discharge treatment, foam finishing, zero/zero compressive shrinkage finishing, plasma processing, and nano-care finishing. These techniques can reduce shrinkage, improve wrinkle resistance, and increase the durability of finishes through mechanical or chemical means. The finishes provided by these techniques allow for end uses such as activewear, sportswear, uniforms, and home and commercial textiles.
This document discusses finishing processes and parameters for knit fabrics. It begins by introducing the author and objectives of studying finishing effects through a stabilizing dryer. It then discusses various finishing steps like slitting, dewatering, drying, and compacting. It describes the functions and effects of machines used in these steps like slitter, tube squeezer, dryer, stenter, and compactor. It notes problems that can occur and suggests solutions like using a Mahlo device or sunforizing device. Other machines discussed include brio, ultra-soft, and brushing machines. Graphs show effects on spirality and shrinkage. The conclusion emphasizes understanding deviations and quality control.
Fabric defects in woven and knitted fabric - hitesh choudharyHitesh Choudhary
This document provides information about various types of fabric defects, their causes, and methods for inspection and grading. It begins with definitions of a fabric defect and examples of common defects seen in woven, knitted, terry, and velvet fabrics. Specific defects are then described in more detail such as knots, holes, missing threads, oil stains, and more. Grading systems for inspecting and assigning penalty points to defects are also outlined, including the 4-point and 10-point systems. The document aims to help identify, mend, and minimize fabric defects.
This document provides information about dimensional stability and geometry in weft knit fabric. It was presented by 7 students from the Textile department of Bangladesh University of Business & Technology. The key points discussed include how knitted fabrics are prone to changes in size and shape from wear and washing. It also discusses dimensional stability states, loop length, areal density, fabric cover, tightness factor, and spirality - defined as dimensional distortion where wale rows are not perpendicular to courses. Formulas are presented for factors that influence the angle of spirality, such as the number of feeders, loop shape, and number of active needles.
Garment manufacturing process from fabric to poductKarthika M Dev
This was one of my internship project which i done in SIYARAM'S in Gujarat. This is all about the process wch going in the factory from raw materials to the finished goods After a conformed order. Hope this will be helpful.
Setting up a high end boutique by kentish govind chintaramKentish Chintaram
This document provides information for setting up a high end boutique called Cute Lady in Mauritius. It discusses that Cute Lady will specialize in women's designer clothing and accessories sourced from around the world and target high society women. Market research found that Mauritian women consider price, personal style, and outfit versatility when buying jewelry and shoes. Design concepts, supplier information, and a basic SWOT analysis are also included to aid in the boutique's formation and launch on April 1, 2012.
The document discusses four main types of pollution: air, water, noise, and land. It provides examples and causes of each type of pollution as well as their effects. The document also gives suggestions for preventing each type of pollution, such as using public transportation and filters for factories to reduce air pollution, preventing waste disposal in water sources to reduce water pollution, limiting loud noises and moving factories outside cities to reduce noise pollution, and sustainable land use and waste management to prevent land pollution.
Cropping and shearing of wool fabric involves removing protruding fibers from the fabric surface using blades. Shearing has been used since the 15th century and was originally done manually. It is preferred over singeing for wool and other protein fibers because singeing can form convolutes on fiber tips, giving the fabric a harsh feel and uneven shade. The shearing process uses a series of helical blades that cut fibers as the fabric passes beneath, with an additional vertical blade to shear the other side. Objectives of cropping include removing surface fibers, giving a cleaner appearance and controlling pill formation. Advantages are increased flame retardancy, aesthetic properties, and ability to produce effects like hairiness. Downsides include being slower and requiring
1) Shrinkage is a dimensional change in fabrics where they become smaller than their original size, usually due to laundry. It is one of the main disadvantages of fabrics.
2) There are several types of shrinkage testing procedures, including relaxation shrinkage, felting shrinkage, compressive shrinkage, and residual shrinkage.
3) Factors that influence shrinkage include yarn swelling, twist factor, stitch length, GSM, elasticity of yarn, stability of fibers and yarns, construction, type of weave or knit, and tension during sewing of garments. Proper control methods like correct construction, eliminating excess tensions, and spreading with softener can help reduce shrink
This document summarizes an experiment on dyeing wool with reactive dyes. Wool fiber was dyed using Lanasol reactive dye at 50:1 liquor ratio. It was observed that 96% of the dye was exhausted onto the fiber, leaving 4% remaining in the dye bath. A small amount of dye, approximately 1%, was removed from the fiber during alkaline after-treatment. The dyeing process and after-treatment resulted in even dyeing without tippiness.
Sublevel open stopping is a vertical mining method where a large open stope is created within an ore vein. Three variations are used: blast hole, open ending, and vertical crater retreat. Drilling is done from multiple sublevels using fan or parallel patterns. Ore is mucked using load haul dump equipment or slushers and transported to surface via skips or haul trucks. Pillars are left in place for support and ground conditioning uses bolts. Backfill allows for recovery of up to 90% of ore while providing support. It is suitable for moderate to strong ore bodies that are fairly steep, thick, and tabular in shape. Advantages include moderate productivity while disadvantages include complex development and inflexible planning.
1. The document outlines a 44-point inspection system used to evaluate fabrics based on defect size and significance, with penalties ranging from 1 to 4 points.
2. It describes random sampling methods for inspections and specifies that 10-20% of shipment quantities should be sampled.
3. A multi-stage inspection process is defined involving quantity checks, pattern/color verification, measurements, appearance evaluation, and shade matching.
1. Shrinkage is defined as a dimensional change in a fabric or garment caused by the application of force, energy, or a change in environment. There are several types of shrinkage including relaxation, swelling, and felting shrinkage.
2. Construction shrinkage is the dimensional change based solely on the construction variables used to create the fabric. Processing shrinkage is the dimensional change added or removed during finishing and manufacturing processes.
3. Many factors affect shrinkage, including fiber type, yarn construction, wet processes, finishing procedures, manufacturing techniques, and care methods. In the denim industry, excessive shrinkage is undesirable and is typically controlled through finishing processes like compressive shrinking.
The document discusses various underground mining methods. Room-and-pillar mining involves drilling, blasting, loading, hauling, scaling, and bolting to extract ore while leaving pillars of untouched material to support the mine roof. It can be used for deposits with different dips and thicknesses. Room-and-pillar mining may later involve caving of pillars to extract residual ore. Longwall mining uses a longwall shearer to continuously mine coal or ore in a long panel, allowing the newly mined area to cave in a controlled manner behind hydraulic roof supports. It can also involve backfilling or back timbering for additional ground support.
The document discusses occupational health and safety issues in the textile industry in Bangladesh. It notes that the textile industry faces high hazards compared to other industries and that workers receive little education on health and safety issues. It also discusses how risk priority numbers are calculated to determine the most hazardous issues in the industry and how a fault tree analysis was conducted on the issue with the highest risk priority number. The document examines hazards like physical, chemical, and ergonomic issues as well as issues caused by long working hours and improper ventilation.
Textile industries in bangladesh and chemical and fire safety of textile indu...Qrhaman
IT is a slide about the textile industries of Bangladesh and their standard and present safety measures. This slide has a lot of information about Bangladesh textile industries and their working methods.
The document provides an overview of Bangladesh's textile industry, including its structure, major sectors, current state, future prospects, challenges and the importance of the industry. It notes that the textile industry consists of spinning, weaving, knitting and other sectors. Currently there are over 5,000 garment factories employing over 3.6 million people. The industry faces challenges like inconsistent energy supply and environmental issues but has opportunities to grow further due to rising demand and low labor costs. The textile industry contributes over 80% of Bangladesh's total exports and over 7% to GDP, playing a vital role in the national economy.
The textile industry is vital to Bangladesh's economy, generating over 65% of industrial employment and 81% of export earnings. It began exporting garments in 1978 and exports grew spectacularly to $10.7 billion by 2007. However, the industry remained dependent on imported fabrics as the primary textile sector (spinning, weaving, knitting) was underdeveloped. There are now two types of textile industries - backward linkage industries like spinning, weaving and dyeing, and forward linkage industries like garments and printing. The garment industry employs over 3.6 million workers, 80% of whom are women. For the industry to remain competitive, further development of the domestic textile supply chain is needed.
The Indian textile industry occupies an important position in the Indian economy, accounting for 14% of industrial production and employing over 35 million people. The industry encompasses traditional handloom and mill sectors as well as decentralized powerloom and knitting sectors. Cotton accounts for 70% of total textile production. While the industry faces challenges like fragmentation and technology obsolescence, it also has opportunities to capitalize on growing domestic demand, develop new products, and improve design capabilities to increase its share of the global textile market. Stakeholders must work to enhance competitiveness and prepare for increased social and environmental standards.
The Indian textile industry occupies an important position in the Indian economy, contributing 14% of industrial production and employing over 35 million people. The industry encompasses traditional handloom and mill sectors as well as decentralized powerloom and knitting sectors. Cotton accounts for 70% of total textile production. While the industry has strengths like abundant raw materials and low labor costs, it faces weaknesses such as fragmentation and technology obsolescence. Opportunities for growth include new product development and faster design capabilities to better compete globally in the post-WTO regime.
This document provides an overview of the garment industry in India. It discusses the historical background of textiles in India dating back 3000 BC. The garment industry has grown significantly since economic liberalization in 1991. The industry employs over 45 million people and contributes significantly to India's GDP. While fragmented, the industry sees growth in segments like sportswear and casual wear. The document performs a PEST analysis and SWOT analysis of the garment industry in India. It also analyzes the industry using Porter's Five Forces model.
Project on study_of_employees_job_satisfactionDivya Shree
The document provides an overview of the garment industry, including its history and development. It discusses the role of the Garment Industry Development Corporation (GIDC) in strengthening the global garment industry. It also outlines how computers are increasingly used in garment design, production, and marketing. The garment industry plays a major economic role in India, accounting for 14% of industrial production and 20% of exports. The industry faces both opportunities and challenges in the post-quota environment under WTO agreements. The government has initiatives to increase garment exports to $85 billion by 2010 and create over 12 million new jobs.
The Indian textile industry occupies an important position in the Indian economy, contributing 14% of industrial production and employing over 35 million people. The industry encompasses traditional handloom and mill sectors as well as a large decentralized powerloom and knitting sector. Cotton accounts for 70% of total textile production. While the industry has strengths like abundant raw materials and low labor costs, it faces weaknesses such as fragmentation and technology obsolescence. With opportunities in the growing domestic market and new product development, the industry must address threats from competition and increasing social and environmental standards to capitalize on its growth prospects.
Green Revolution in Ready Made Garments in Bangladesh: An Analytical StudyDr. Amarjeet Singh
Bangladesh, a small south Asian country, holds the second position in the world of exporting readymade garments (RMG). Here locate the highest number of green RMG factories in the world. Green industrialization is the positive symbol of sustainable development. This paper represents an impressive illustration of the scenario of RMG industries in Bangladesh especially the growth, contribution to export and the success of LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) recognized Platinum, Gold and Silver factories. This paper also represents the success of green revolution in RMG industries in Bangladesh and recommends some suggestions to convert the traditional industries to green industries where the industries are not only for making profit but also committed to provide good working environment for employee, eco-friendly and ethical business practice.
Green Revolution in Ready Made Garments in Bangladesh: An Analytical StudyDr. Amarjeet Singh
This document discusses the growth of green industries in Bangladesh's ready-made garments sector. It notes that Bangladesh now has the highest number of green factories in the world, with 90 factories certified under the LEED rating system and 250 more registered for certification. The green revolution in Bangladesh's garments industry has led to numerous benefits like reduced pollution, more sustainable development, and improved working environments for employees. The document analyzes factors driving this green transformation and recommends further steps to convert traditional factories into greener operations.
Anatomy of a Textile Cluster – Problems and Prospects of Textile Business Own...Dr. Amarjeet Singh
The study on Anatomy of a textile cluster -
problems and prospects of textile business owners with
respect to business expansion and operations was carried
out to find the problems and prospects of Erode textile
cluster as a pilot survey with a sample size of 80
respondents. The primary study was carried out in two
stages. An exploratory study was done among the textile
merchants and textile buyers to understand the nature,
administration, status, problems and scope of the textile
merchants in Erode Cluster. Firstly, the researcher had
personnel interview with the officials of four major textile
markets namely, Texvalley, Gani market, Ashokapuram
market, and central market.Secondly an interview schedule
was carried with a structured questionnaire . The interview
schedule was prepared with four variables namely business
factors, financial factors, marketing factors and market
facility concerned. Each items in the variable was measured
with a 5 point Likert scale. And there were few items which
captured their present level operations and future plans.
The results revealed the present status of their operations
which is a key in factors for planning for a better
operational efficiency for next level.
This document provides an overview of Bangladesh's apparel industry and the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA). It discusses the history and growth of the industry from the 1960s to present day. Key points include that there were only 9 export-oriented garment factories in 1978 growing to nearly 5,000 factories and over 3 million employees by 2008. The BGMEA was founded in 1983 with 12 founding members and now has over 4,300 member factories. The strengths, weaknesses, and reasons for the weaknesses of trade unions in the industry are also examined.
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The textile industry in India is one of the largest and oldest industries in the country. It contributes significantly to industrial production and exports. The industry employs millions of people and has experienced major changes with economic liberalization in the 1990s. It faces competition from other countries but also has strengths in raw materials, skilled labor, and presence across the value chain. The government continues efforts to support the industry through various schemes.
The global spinning machinery market is projected to reach $7.3 billion by 2027, growing at 5.5% annually. Major production hubs of cotton yarn are in China, India, the US, Pakistan, and others. Spinning machinery manufacturers are focusing on regions with large yarn industries like these. The market is driven by rising fashion industry GDP and demand for technical textiles. Trends include shifting toward automated machinery and preferring Spanish brands. Sustainability and recycling technologies are also gaining importance. Automation and spinning recycled fibers present growth opportunities in this expanding market.
We have been assigned a group report on Siddiqsons Group of company. We have taken its air jet looms unit made up denim fabric etc. for that we have proposed a plan to install new air jet looms machine to generate further revenue from it and expand its market as well, Nationally and Internationally.
While making the report we have learned a lot and this will definitely going to help us in our professional lives as well. It was really a great opportunity for us to enhance our professional skills. We would like to very thank full to sir Mr. Zahid Khan to give us such a great opportunity like this and also for his support throughout the report.
We would also like to thank all those who extend their favors provide us the support in making this report
The Indian textile industry is one of the largest in the world, contributing significantly to India's economy by accounting for 14% of industrial production, 4% of GDP, 17% of export earnings, and providing employment to over 35 million people. The industry has grown since economic liberalization in 1991 and includes various segments like cotton, silk, wool, ready-made garments, and hand-crafted textiles. While India has strengths like raw material resources and low labor costs, weaknesses include labor productivity issues and technology obsolescence.
ABSTRACT Marketing Strategies of Readymade Garments Industry of India.pdfAnn Wera
This document discusses marketing strategies of the readymade garments industry in India. It begins by providing background on the industry and outlines several objectives of the study, including to examine existing marketing policies and strategies used by garment companies. It then presents several hypotheses to be tested regarding relationships between owner/company factors and marketing strategies. The methodology discusses using statistical tools like t-tests, ANOVA, and percentages to analyze primary survey data collected from garment manufacturers, retailers, and customers. Limitations of the study include its focus on two regions of India and potential bias from informant responses.
ABSTRACT Marketing Strategies of Readymade Garments Industry of India.pdf
Spirality & Shrinkage
1. Project report
PROJECT WORK
ON
.
Supervised by
A.K.M FARIDUL AZAD
HEAD OF THE FABRIC MANUFACTURING DEPARTMENT
PABNA TEXTILE ENGINEERING COLLEGE
SHALGARIA,PABNA-6600
Presented by
MD. EKRAMUL HASAN
ROLL NO. :070065
REG. NO. :4534
SESSION. :2006-2007
CONTENTS OF THE PROJECT
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2. Project report
CHAPTER INDEX PAGE NO.
CHAPTER-1 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT 3
CHAPTER-2 TITLE OF THE PROJECT 4
CHAPTER-3 PROJECT ABSTRACT 5
CHAPTER-4 INTRODUCTION 6-8
CHAPTER-5 RAW MATERIALS 09-10
CHAPTER-6 MARKETING 11-12
CHAPTER-7 IMPORTANCE OF THIS SURVEY 13
CHAPTER-8 TERMINOLOGY DEFINATION OF SPIRALITY &
SHRINKAGE
14-16
CHAPTER-9 GEOMETRY OF SPIRALITY & SHRINKAGE 17-23
CHAPTER-10 CAUSES OF SPIRALITY & SHRINKAGE 24
CHAPTER-11 METHODS TO MINIMISE THE PROBLEMS 25
CHAPTER-12 PROBLEM ASSOCIATED WITH SPIRALITY & SHRINKAGE 26
CHAPTER-13 CONCLUSION 27
Page | 2
3. Project report
At first I would like to express my heart-felt thanks to Almighty ALLAH for his kind blessing to
complete the Industrial training & this report successfully. I would like to thanks the people, who
have made a significant contribution to make this report. Their guide lines, suggestions &
inspiration helped me a lot.
I would like to express my deepest appreciation, sincerest gratuity to our respected Sir A.K.M
Faridul Azad, Chief instructer, Fabric Manufacturing Department, my supervisor, for his
tremendous support and guidance throughout my training period. Being working with her I have
not only earned valuable knowledge but was also inspired by his innovativeness which helped
enrich my experience to a greater extent. Her ideas and way of working was truly remarkable.
I also express my gratitude to Abdul Based , Principal, Pabna Textile Engineering college, for his
support and continuous guidance throughout my long journey in the industrial training.
I would like to thank the management of “Padma PolyCotton Knit Fabrics Ltd."for giving me the
opportunity to do the industrial training successfully and also their valuable suggestions. My
deepest appreciation goes to Khalid Hossain Khan, Director Production of Padma PolyCotton
Knit Fabrics Ltd. for his permission to conduct my industrial training without which it would be
uncompleted. The generous support is greatly appreciated. I would also like to thanks executives,
senior executives and other officials of Padma PolyCotton Knit Fabrics Ltd.for helping me to
complete industrial training successfully. My gratitude also goes to all the employees Padma
PolyCotton Knit Fabrics Ltd.for their sincere co-operation, support and valuable advices.
Last but not least, thanks go to my precious family for their never ending love and inspire at every
stages of my life. Without their continuous support I realize that I would not be a person I am right
now.
Page | 3
5. Project report
Spirality is a common problem in weft knitted fabric. It is the de-twisting tendency of yarn in the
fabric. It appears in mostly in single jersey fabrics but in double jersey fabrics this level in about
zero. The causes of formation of spirality in twistness in the yarn and increase it by using more
number of needles and multifeeders machine so on. It can reduce in different ways but not
remove from the fabrics.
Shrinkage is the dimensional change in length and width wise in the fabric. It mainly occurs for
swelling of yarn. So, it appears more in cotton fabrics than synthetic fabrics. It can reduce the
shrinkage by using stenter machine after dyeing and drying the fabric. Also, if the higher
GSM/lower stitches length/lower twist fabric contains lower shrinkage of fabric.
For measuring the spirality and shrinkage at first we have done ISO-6330 washing then use ISO:
16322-2 for spirality and ISO-5077 for shrinkage. And these are international standard of these
measuring systems.
Evolution of Knitting Industries In Bangladesh:
Bangladesh had a historical reputation in production of textile products in addition to
famous Dhaka muslin. Fabrics from Bengal were found in ancient Egyptian tombs, and were
traded with the Roman and Chinese empires in the medieval age. In ancient Bengal a great
deal of expertise existed with regards to weaving of textile products as well as great
Page | 5
6. Project report
reverence towards its trade. In rural communities both men and women were apprenticed in
weaving. These skills and disciplines in sewing and weaving are passed down through
generations and are quickly transferred to production lines in modern knitwear factories.
In the early 1980s, there were small-scale independent investments in the readymade
garments (RMG) sector. At that time, it was not considered viable and received very little
government attention. Within a decade, the RMG industry in Bangladesh had flourished and
by the early 1990s it had emerged as a major employer. Under the dynamic leadership of the
private sector together with policy support from the government, the export oriented RMG
industry has shown a spectacular growth during the last two and a half decades. The textile
sector initially could not keep pace with the requirement of yarn and fabrics particularly by
the woven RMG sector as the textile and clothing industry was controlled by a fairly small
community of local entrepreneurs. However, the sector grew with vengeance and the country
currently exports over US$11 billion in textiles and garments, with a projected target of
US$24 billion dollars by 2020.
Evolution of Knitwear Exports
The RMG business was initiated with the export of knitwear consignment in 1973.
Eventually the RMG sector accelerated exports dominated by woven garments. The knitwear
sector’s significant contribution in country’s export share was 1.1% in FY 82. Since then it
gradually increased its share in exports. While the contribution of woven garments to the
4
export basket was 42.8% in FY 91, the knitwear sector’s contribution rose to 7.6%. Table 1
presents export performance and the extent of retention rate due to high contents of domestic
inputs. In FY 04, knitwear sector for the first time exceeded woven sector and became the
leader with an exported quantity of 91.6 million dozens. The sector continues to be the leader
in terms of quantity exported with an increasing gap with the woven garments over time.
Export quantity of knitwear items increased to 241.59 million dozens. This is roughly equal
to 163.7% growth between FY 04 and FY 08. At present knitwear is the largest export
earning sector of Bangladesh contributing 41.8% to national export earnings at the end of FY
09 (July-April).
Total Knitwear Exports and Net Retention in Bangladesh:
Exports (US $
million)
Share of Net
Retention
Share of
Year Total
RMG
Knitwear Knitwear
(%)
(US $
million)
Net
Retention
(%)
1994-95 1850.3 393.3 21.3 157.3 40
1995-96 2006.6 598.3 29.8 253.7 42.4
Page | 6
7. Project report
1996-97 2316.9 763.3 33.0 335.9 44.0
1997-98 2775.4 940.3 33.9 443.8 47.2
1998-99 2700.0 1035.4 38.4 530.1 51.2
1999-00 3125.4 1269.8 40.6 695.9 54.8
2000-01 3755.6 1496.2 39.8 837.9 56.0
2001-02 3355.4 1459.2 43.5 826.9 56.7
2002-03 3601.4 1653.8 45.9 965.8 58.4
2003-04 4443.3 2148.0 48.3 1271.6 59.2
2004-05 5429.7 2819.5 51.9 1691.7 60.0
2005-06 6041.9 3817.0 63.2 2290.2 60.0
2006-07 7517.2 4553.6 60.6 2732.2 60.0
2007-08 8322.2 5532.5 66.5 3319.5 60.0
Source: Bangladesh Bank and BKMEA Website
Bangladeshi RMG products are mainly destined to the US and the EU markets. With
their earnest efforts from late 1980s the RMG exporters were able to export US$ 393.26
million in FY 95. Of this amount, the shares of the EU and the USA were US$ 274 million
and US$ 98 million respectively. During FY 97, Bangladesh was the 7th and the 5th largest
apparel exporter to the US and EU markets respectively. The cumulative average growth rate
of the sector is about 20%. In recent years the EU market was the main export market for
5
Bangladeshi knitwear constituting 76% (US$ 4.2 billion) of total knitwear export followed by
the USA (14.59%, i.e. US$ 807 million) in the year FY 08. The impressive growth of the
knitwear in the EU market was partly due the market access opportunities provided under the
Generalized Systems of Preference (GSP) facility. Further, the two-stage transformation
requirement of the rules of origin (ROO) introduced in 1999 accelerated market penetration.
Social Impact:
The major strength of the Bangladesh textile industry is the pool of motivated
workers. The sector has created jobs for about 2.5 million people (Table 4) of which 70% are
women originating mostly from rural areas. Due to a liberal cultural attitude towards women
in the workforce, the RMG sector has transformed a traditionally male dominated society to
one where women have an equal status as earners in the household (see Zohir and Majumder,
1996). The number of factories in the RMG sector increased in tandem from less than a
thousand in FY 91 to about five thousands in FY 08. Competitive wage rate together with
easily trainable workforce helps transform the comparative advantages into copetitive
advantage in this sector. Directly employed labor force in the knitwear sector are 1 million
and another 0.5 millions are indirectly employed.
Page | 7
8. Project report
Number of Establishments, Employment, and Firm Size in the Knitwear
Sector
Year Number of
Establishments
Employment (in
million)
Employment per
Firm
1994-95 2182 1.20 550
1995-96 2353 1.29 548
1996-97 2503 1.30 519
1997-98 2726 1.50 550
1998-99 2963 1.50 506
1999-00 3200 1.60 500
2000-01 3480 1.80 517
2001-02 3618 1.80 498
2002-03 3760 2.00 532
2003-04 3957 2.00 505
2004-05 4107 2.10 511
2005-06 4220 2.20 521
2006-07 4490 2.40 535
2007-08 4740 2.50 527
2.1 Types of raw material
Yarn: Carded Yarn
Combed Yarn
Page | 8
9. Project report
Cotton + Modal
Cotton + Viscose
Spun Yarn: 100% Polyester
Lycra: CREORA, Made in VIETNAM.
Invista, Made in Singapore
Texlon, Made in KOREA
Flamingo
WinWin
2.2 Source of yarn for knitting
Name of the spinning Mills Location
Arif Knit spinning Ltd Gazipur
The Delta spinning Mills Ltd Kashimpur, Gazipur
Square yarn Ltd Kashimpur, Gazipur
Bengol NFK Textile Gazipur
NRG spinning mill Gazipur
Prime Textile Pagla,Narayangong
RSWM Ltd India
AA Kader synthetics Narangong
Shirin spinning Ltd Shreepur, Gazipur
Hyosung Vietnam South Korea
Malek spinning Valuka, Mymensingh
Sunny International
Aman Cotton Fabrics Ltd
Otto Spinning Ltd
VDM Spinning Ltd
Badsha Spinning Mills Ltd
Kamal Spinning Mills Ltd
Ashoka Spinning Ltd
Rusta Spinning Ltd
Bextex
MTJ
Loyed Tex
2.3 DIFFERENT YARN and count FOR Knitting:
Page | 9
11. Project report
17.1 CONSUMER OF PRODUCTS
PPC is a 100% export oriented industry. All the goods produced in this industry are exported into
various foreign countries. Name of the main buyers are given below:
NAME OF THE BUYER
1. S. Oliver
2. Tom tailor
3. IC Company
4. Ed Ward Wang
5. Umbro
6. New Look
7. TMS
8. Algodon
9. Q. Solution
11. Maskos
12. Walmant
13. Up-2-Date
14. Grenvilly.
15. Asmara
16. Erima
17. Sprider
18. Esprit
19. P.P. Tex
20. Gastrock
21. Texco
22. Maxim
23. OBS
24. Multiline
25. MB Fashion
26. DR & S
27. Katag
28. Collince
29. Cream Soda.
30. Octagon
31. Kiabi
32. Triglobe
33. Brice
34. Shobi Fashion
35. Max.
36. Etam
37. Zagora
38. Air Sohution
39. Vood Bridge.
40. Lion Star
41. Evrozon
42. Sumi Tomo
43. Ginkana
17.2 COMMUNICATION SYSTEM
Intercom telephone
Page | 11
12. Project report
Fax
E-mail
Written letters
Oral
17.3 Importing countries
There are some countries which are importing gods from The PPC. The name of
the countries are given below –
Spain
Germany
Denmark
Europe
Denmark
Europe Union
United State of America
Page | 12
13. project report
1 . To get idea about the knitted fabric faults named spirility and shrinkage in knitting industry.
2 . To get knowledge about the cause of spirility and shrinkage.
3 . To get knowledge about the processes to minimize spirility and shrinkage problems.
4 . To get idea about the problems associated with spirility and shrinkage.
Page | 13
14. project report
1. Spirality
Spirality is a dimensional distortion in circular plain knitted fabrics. The wales or needle lines,
should occupy a truly vertical line in the fabric and should always be right angles to the cross wise
courses of stitches.
This perpendicularity of wales to the courses is frequently, not the case and many times the wales may
skew to the right or left forming an angle, which appears in the form of a twilled surface.
This geometrical defect has been termed spirality of circular knitted fabrics. The following Figure shows
the fabrics with normal loop position and with spirality having wale skewness.
Page | 14
Ѳ
Wales
Wales
Courses
Courses
Fig: Fabric with normal loop
position
Fig: Fabric with spirality
Ѳ =
dddddddddaAgn
Angle of spirality
15. project report
Spirality has definite influence on both the functional and aesthetic performance of knitted fabrics and
their garments.
Displacements or shifting of seams during the garment make-up, mismatched patterns due to wale
skewness, sewing difficulties etc are some important practical difficulties due to spirality. As the
dimensional properties of the fabrics are affected by spirality, it is very difficult to minimize or eliminate it
altogether.
This spirality problem is often corrected in finishing treatments by imposing distortion to fabrics so that the
wales straighten out and subsequently set in new from. Though the setting by finishing treatments are
normally achieved by using resins, heat, steam, mercerization etc, it is not permanent and after repeated
washings, the wale skewness takes place.
1.1. Calculation for spirality percentage:
Average deflection length from the seam line = X
Y= Sample length,
Spirality% =
Example:
Average deflection, X = 2cm
Sample length, Y = 50cm
Spirality% =
Page | 15
16. project report
1. Shrinkage
A dimensional change resulting in a decrease in the length or width of a specimen subjected to
specified conditions is known shrinkage.
Reduction in length and width of fabric induced by conditioning, wetting, steaming, chemical
treatment, wet processing as in laundering, in chemical practice and in literature the following terms have
been used to describe the shrinkage which occurs in testing procedure:
a) Relaxation shrinkage,
b) Felting shrinkage,
c) Compressive shrinkage,
d) Residual shrinkage.
a) Relaxation shrinkage:
During manufactures fabrics and their component yarns are subjeceted to tension under varying
conditions of temperature and moisture content, after manufacturing when the fabric is taken from
the machine and keep on floor or store room, then the fabric tends to shrink, this type shrinkage
is called relaxation shrinkage.
b) Felting shrinkage:
In case of wool fibers dimensional changes can be magnified by felting shrinkage. When
untreated wool fibers are subjected to mechanical action in the presence of moisture.
c) Compressive shrinkage:
A process in which fabric is caused to shrink in length by compression. The process often
referred to as controlled compressive shrinkage.
d) Residual shrinkage: after washing the fabric is shrunk. This type of shrinkage is called residual
shrinkage. Residual shrinkage is the main factor of garments industry.
1.Causes:
Shrinkage is mainly due to yarn swelling and the resulting crimp increase during washing in case of
cotton fabrics. Yarn swelling percentage is more in polyester cotton blending yarn.
2.Influencing factors:
i) Twist factor: twist factor increases so that shrinkage will be increases.
ii) Stitch length: stitch length increases so that shrinkage will be increases.
iii) GSM: GSM increases so that shrinkage will be decreases.
iv) Elasticity of yarn.
4. Calculation for shrinkage percentage:
Shrinkage percentage = (L0-L1) ×100/L0
Where, L0 = the distance between the datum line before washing and
L1 = the distance between datum lines after washing.
Page | 16
17. project report
Spirality
The spirality occurred in knitted fabrics is shown in Figure. The fabric is assumed to the knitted with Z
twist yarn on a multifeed circular machine, revolving clockwise.
Let F = total number of feeders,
n= total number of needles,
c= courses per unit length,
w= wales per unit length
let, DD/
= position of a wale when total spirality occurs.
BB/
= position of a wale when total spirality occurs due to number of feeders.
XX/
= position of a course when total spirality occurs.
XA=position of a course when spirality occurs due to number of feeders.
X/
A= F/C= displace between two consecutive courses knitted by the same feed.
XX./
= n/w= open width of the fabric.
Let,
tanѲF =
Now, w and c therefore, loop factor =
tanѲF =
Page | 17
ѲY = angle of spirality due to yarn
ѲF = angle of spirality due to number of feeder.
ѲYF = total spirality
d
X
D/
X/
D
Y
Y
B/
B
ѲY
ѲF
ѲF
Normal to wale
line
Wale
A
L
ѲYF
18. project report
Therefore, ѲF =tan-1
(
now, the above relationship shows that the angle of spirality depends on:
i) Number of feeders of the machine,
ii) Shape of loop in a particular state of relaxation and
iii) Number of active needles in the machine which depends on machine gauge and
diameter.
Procedure of determining the angle of spirality:
• For specimens tested in the original state conditioning is not essential, for processed specimens
a minimum of 4 hours in the standard atmosphere is required.
• Determine accurately the path of the course line; this can be achieved by either placing the base
of the protractor or a rule along the course line or drawing a line parallel to the course with a fine
tip pen.
• Determine accurately the path of the wale line that intersects with the drawn course line, draw
along this wale line.
• Place the protractor along a course line ensuring wale intersects with the bottom of the 90 line on
the protractor (Figure 4).
• The angle between the 90 lines and wale line is measured and the direction of spirality (+ right, -
left) is recorded.
• Repeat the process nine more times so that ten results are recorded and the mean is determined.
Figure 4: Schematic representation of the measurement of spirality angle
As per the experts and different world renowned buyers, the angle of spirality lesser than 10
degree is acceptable as performance requirement and it is expected that within that threshold
limit knit loops will not pose any serious problem.
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19. project report
Washing process:
ISO 6330
Detergent: suitable detergent (0.5%) on the weight of 1.8kg sample.
Sample size: 62cm×62cm
Marking area: 50cm×50cm
Time: 45min
Temperature: 400
C
Machine RPM: 1100
Determination of spirality after laundering knitted fabrics:
ISO 16322-2
First Edition 2005-06-01
(1) Principle: Test specimen are cut, prepared, marked and laundered according to specified
procedure. Spirality is measured in millimeters, percentage of a marked distance or angle of
nonverticality.
(2) Apparatus:
(a) Automatic washing machine as described in ISO 6330
(b) Automatic drying machine
(c) Calibrated roll
(d) Conditioning rack
(e) Sewing machine
(f) Inverted T-square at least 500mm in length
(g) Marking template of dimensions(380*380)mm,(530*510)mm or (680*380)mm
(3) Conditioning: For a minimum four hours before cuttings, sewing or measuring the fabric
specimens.
Test specimen preparation & marking procedures:
Test specimen preparation:
Prepare these specimens for marking from approlllede locations across a fabric sample. Cut three
380*380 mm single layer fabric specimen aligned with the selvedge or tubular fold line in selected
locations with different length and width yarns.
Diagonal marking procedure:
Mark two pairs of 250mm benchmark sets parallel to the length and two pairs of 250mm benchmark sets
perpendicular to the width to make a square. Draw a line through each of the four sets of adjacent
benchmark to denote the square formed. Label the corners A, B, C & D in a clockwise direction starting at
the lower left corner.
1) Test specimen preparation:
This marking procedure is particularly suited to narrow width fabrics.
Cut three 680*380 mm specimens with the long dimensions aligned with the selvedge or folded
edge if the samples are a tubular knit.
2) Inverted T-marking:
Draw a line, YZ, across the width of the specimen 75mm above the edge of the specimen.
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Procedure-A-Diagonal Marking
Procedure-B: Inverted marking
20. project report
Place benchmark A perpendicular to the YZ line midway along the horizontal line using T-square
device, mark point B 500mm above point A on the vertical line
1) Test specimen preparation:
Fold the fabric with the selvedge edges together. Place a 580*510 mm template on the fabric with
the long direction parallel to the selvedge. Cut a double thickness.
2) Mock garments marking:
Place face side together so that the two 580mm long edges are even, as well as the shorted
510mm sew a 12mm over edged seamed along each long direction and one short direction. Turn
seams to the inside forming an open-ended bag or pillow type specimen to simulate a garments
panel.
Stitch unsewn edges of specimen to make a hemmed edge.
Measure and record distance along the seamed edges, lines OB & CD of each specimen
Assessment by procedure:
Procedure-A: Diagonal marking
Normal assessment:
After laundering measure and record distances AC & BD in mm.
Calculate the spirality% (X) for each specimen to the nearest 0.1% as follow:
AC = diagonal distance across the specimen for A to C
BD = diagonal distance across the specimen for B to D.
Procedure-B: Inverted T-marking
After laundering place the horizontal leg of a right angle device along line YZ and the second leg on a
perpendicular downward from point B. place a benchmark on line YZ that corresponds to point A/
in
Measure and record the length of lines AA/
and AB to the nearest millimeter.
Calculate the percentage spirality (X) to 0.1% for each specimen as follows,
Calculate and report the mean percentage spirality for the specimens tested. The mean distance of AA/
to
the nearest millimeter may also report as the spirality distance, if desired.
Procedure-C: Mock garments marking
After laundering, measure and record the distance of lines AA/
, DD/
, AB & CD of the specimen to the
nearest millimeter.
Calculate the mean percentage spirality (X) to the nearest o,1% for each specimen as follows,
Calculate and report the mean percentage spirality for the specimens tested.
The mean distance of AA/
or DD/
to the nearest millimeter may also be reported as the spirality distance, if
desired.
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Procedure-C: Mock garments marking
21. project report
Spirality control:
In conventional open width knitting machine the fabric is cut vertically without considering its
distortion problem. If the fabric is cut helically or parallel to the angle of the inclination of the
knitted wales, the results the cut fabric is stable and will not distort further.
Spirality is controlled at different stages after dyeing; such as dewatering machine, compacting
machine or stenter machine. During passing the fabric through albatross (the width controller of
squeezer machine) and shape pulley ( the width controller of compacting machine) .
(13) Effect of stenter m/c:
If the fabric is delivered to the dryer without sending through the stenter m/c and completed garments that
show lower spirality, higher shrinkage. On the contrary, it shows tolerate limit according to buyer
requirements by going through the stenter m/c.
Before stenter (For Plain Single Jersey Farbic):
After stenter (For Plain Single Jersey Farbic):
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Serial Fabric GSM Spirality (%)
01 180 0.5
02 180 0.4
03 180 0
04 180 0
05 180 0
22. project report
SHRINKAGE
Washing process:
ISO 6330
Detergent: suitable detergent (0.5%) on the weight of 1.8kg sample.
Sample size: 62cm×62cm
Marking area: 50cm×50cm
Time: 45min
Temperature: 400
C
Machine RPM: 1100
Page | 22
Serial Fabric GSM Spirality (%)
01 175 3.3
02 175 3
03 175 3.7
04 175 3.5
05 175 3.8
23. project report
Determination of dimensional change in washing and drying:
International Standard ISO 5077
First edition- 1984-12-01
(1) Principle:
The specimen is conditioned in the specified standard atmosphere and measured before
subjection to the appropriate washing and drying procedure. After drying and conditioning and measuring
of the specimen, the changes in dimensions are calculated.
(2) Apparatus and reagents: Specified in ISO 3759 and in ISO 6330.
(3) Atmospheric Condition: The atmospheric conditions required for pre-conditioning and testing are
specified in ISO 139.
(4) Test specimens:
(a) The selection, dimensions, marking and measuring of test specimens are specified in ISO 3759.
(b) The number of specimens to be tested is determined by the precision of the results required. In
this test method, it is suggested that four specimens of each sample be tested and these specimens
be washed in two separate wash loads with two specimens per wash load.
(c) In certain circumstances, it may be desirable not to test four specimen may be used.
(5) Procedure:
(a) Determine the original length and width dimensions, as appropriate after the specimens have
been pre –conditioned, conditioned and measured according to the procedure specified in ISO 3759
(b) Wash and dry the specimens according to one of the procedures specified in ISO 6330, as
agreed between the interested parties.
(c) After washing and drying, condition and measure the specimens and calculate the dimensional
change of the specimens according to the procedure specified in ISO 3759.
(6) Expression of results:
(a) Calculate the mean changes in dimensions in both the length and width directions accordance
with the arrangement in ISO 3759 as follows:
Percentage change in length= ×100
Percentage change in width=
(b) Express the average dimensional changes to the nearest 0.5%.
(c) State whether the dimension has decreased (shrinkage) by means of a minus sign (-) or
increased (extension) by means of a plus sign (+).
Practical data:
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FOR 100% COTTON PLAIN SINGLE JERSEY
26. project report
PROBLEM ASSOCIATED WITH SHRINKAGE:
Shrinkage is rated as one of the leading quality problems in the garments industry.Fabric shrinkage can
cause problem into main areas , either during garmen manufacture or during subsequent laundering by
the ultimate customer.
Fabric relaxtion shrinkage may cause sizing problem ,as athe finished garments will be smaller than it
was planned .It also leads in formation of puckeredseams infinal pressing.
PROBLEM ASSOCIATED WITH SPIRALITY:
Spirality has definite influence on both the functional and aesthetic performance of knitted fabrics and
their garments.
Displacements or shifting of seams during the garments make-up
mismatched patterns due to wale skewness
sewing difficulties etc are some important practical difficulties due to spirality
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27. project report
Remedies For Spirality:
1) Z & S twist yarn package used in alternate feeder:
If Z and S twist yarn packages are used in alternate feeder then legs than 1% spirality is
found and this is the greatest way to reduce spirality;.
2) Resin treatment:
Cross linking the fabric by means of inter fibre bonding also reduces spirality. Resin is the
form of aqueous solution is applied and set by passing the fabric through a high
temperature stenter this method is not recommend fro cotton fabrics, since it weakens
the cotton yarn.
3) Heat setting:
Steam or hot water setting reduces twist liveliness and hence spirality. Mercerization is
recommended for cotton yarn, sot that fibers are made to relax permanently.
4) Compacting:
If the length of the fabric based on its elongation during processing which, in turn,
reduces the width. It helps in controlling the shrinkage of the fabric. There are two types
of compactors, open and tubular. In tubular compacting the squeezing line gets on the
sides in this process and is done on natural movement thus controlling spirality. If the
wales are straightened manually then it results in spirality.
5) Yarn twist direction and machine rotation direction:
If the machine rotates clockwise then the spirality can be reduced by suing yarn of S-
twist. Otherwise if the machine rotates anti-clockwise the spirality can be reduced by
using the yarn of Z-twist.
6) Use of special type of yarn:
One comparative way minimize the spirality is to use the vortex spun yarn which is
obtained from Murata vortex spinning system. And modified friction spun DREF III yarn
reduces yarn snarling and fabric spirality.
7) By using plating yarn:
In fabric production when used plating yarn it reduce the spirality.
8) By using special type spinning system:
9) By using “Nu-Torque” spinning system the produced yarn torque is zero. And by using this yarn in
fabric it reduces the spirality.
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28. project report
Remedies for Shrinkage:
1) In order to maintain the weight at a lower shrinkage, a finer yarn is used.
2) In order to maintain the width, a larger dia knitting machine or a longer stitch length is necessary.
3) In order to maintain the same knitted tightness factor, or cover factor (square root of tex divided
by stitch length) with a finer yarn, a shorter average stitch length must be knitted.
4) Changes in yarn count and stitch length also change the stitch density which again changes the
weight and the width for a given level of shrinkage. Changes in the tightness factor will change
the extensibility of the fabric and will also affect the amount of spirality (fabric twisting) which may
be developed.
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29. project report
In general the angle of spirality values are decreasing, when the tightness factor values are getting
tight in the all knitted fabric samples. In slack knitted fabric structures, the loop can easily find area
to rotate so spirality is increasing.
The spirality angle of the fabrics knitted with ring yarns are very high comparing with the fabrics
knitted with open-end yarns. This shows the effect of the spiraled on twist liveliness. Because the
twist liveliness of the ring yarns used in producing single jersey fabric is higher than the open-end
yarns used in producing single jersey fabrics.
Fabrics shrinkage depends on different fabric structure i.e; single jersey, rib, interlock and their
derivatives. Yarn composition i.e; 100% cotton and polyester and synthetic yarn.
More research and development is required to control the fabric specifications accurately. We
could not able to execute the project work perfectly for limitations of time and lack of opportunity to
examine the various tests in the factory.
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