1. The document outlines a 44-point inspection system used to evaluate fabrics based on defect size and significance, with penalties ranging from 1 to 4 points. 2. It describes random sampling methods for inspections and specifies that 10-20% of shipment quantities should be sampled. 3. A multi-stage inspection process is defined involving quantity checks, pattern/color verification, measurements, appearance evaluation, and shade matching.

1. SectionSection 1: Fabric Inspection1: Fabric Inspection
44 Point SystemPoint System44--Point SystemPoint System

2. 44 Point SystemPoint System
This standard is issued by the American society for
44 –– Point SystemPoint System
testing and materials with reference to the designation:
ASTM D5430-04
F lt d ith lt i t f 1 2 3 d 4Faults are scored with penalty points of 1, 2, 3, and 4
according to the size and significance.
Si f D f (L h i I h) P l P iSize of Defect (Length in Inch) Penalty Points
3 inch or less 1
Over 3 but not over 6 inches 2Over 3 but not over 6 inches 2
Over 6 but not over 9 inches / half width 3
Over 9 inches / Full width 4

3. 44 P i tP i t S tS t44 -- PointPoint SystemSystem
1. Assign no more than a total of 4 points to any one linear yard
f f b i dl f h b i f h d dof fabric, regardless of the number or size of the detected
individual defects.

4. 44 -- PointPoint SystemSystem
2. Assign 4 points to each consecutive linear yard in which ag p y
continuous running defect exceeds 9 inches.

5. 44 -- PointPoint SystemSystem
3 Assign 4 points to each linear yard of fabric where the3. Assign 4 points to each linear yard of fabric where the
cuttable width is less than the minimum specified.

6. 44 -- PointPoint SystemSystem
4 Assign 4 points to each splice or full width defect4. Assign 4 points to each splice or full width defect

7. 44 PointPoint SystemSystem
A roll is graded as “PASSEDPASSED” if the total penalty points
44 -- PointPoint SystemSystem
A roll is graded as PASSEDPASSED if the total penalty points
do not exceed the advised point count per 100 square yards.
A roll is graded as “FAILEDFAILED” if the total penalty points
exceed the advised point count per 100 square yards.
The entire lot shall be ““REJECTED”REJECTED” if the average penalty
points exceed the average shipment point count per 100points exceed the average shipment point count per 100
square yards.

8. Advised Point CountAdvised Point Count per Fabric Typeper Fabric Type
Group A
Basic denim (open end spun /12-16 oz)Basic denim (open end spun /12 16 oz)
Dress shirting
W t d W lWorsted Woolens
Synthetics, Polyester, Nylon, Acetate, Filament

9. Advised Point CountAdvised Point Count per Fabric Typeper Fabric Type
Group BGroup B
Basic denim (Ring spun /12-16 oz),
Li ht i ht d i (4 8 )Light weight denim (4-8 oz),
Medium weight denim (9-12 oz), Twill
Canvas, Poplin, Oxford shirting
Woolen spun
Spun rayon
Basic knitted fabric

10. Advised PointAdvised Point Count per Fabric TypeCount per Fabric Type
Group CGroup C
Plain weave fabric(others)
St t h d i / t t h f b iStretch denim / stretch fabric
Corduroy, Velvet
Chambray
Silk fabrics
Jacquard
Seersucker

11. Advised PointAdvised Point Count per Fabric TypeCount per Fabric Type
Group D
Linen, Linen/cotton
Rayon blends

12. Advised PointAdvised Point CountCount -- GroupsGroups Of FabricsOf Fabrics
Tighten Normal
Individual roll
(points/100 sq.
Shipment
(points/100 sq.
Individual roll
(points/100 sq.
Shipment
(points/100 sq.(points/100 sq.
yds.)
(points/100 sq.
yds.)
(points/100 sq.
yds.)
(points/100 sq.
yds.)
Group A 15 12 20 15
Group B 20 16 25 18
G C 25 20 35 25Group C 25 20 35 25
Group D 35 25 40 32

13. SectionSection 2:2:
Random SamplingRandom Sampling

14. Random SamplingRandom Sampling
The sampling shall be selected for inspection on an
entirely random basis.
The mill is required to present inspectors with a
draft shipment packing list when eighty (80%)
percent of the rolls are packed from that list thepercent of the rolls are packed from that list, the
inspector will select rolls to be inspected.

15. Sampling MSampling Methodologyethodology
Different clients may have different choices of sampling methods.
Following are the most popular sampling methods.Following are the most popular sampling methods.
10% 20% of the Shipment Quantity10%, 20%……of the Shipment Quantity
Total Shipment Quantity X 10
Fixed Sample Size

16. SectionSection 3:3:
OnOn--Site Fabric Inspection ProcessSite Fabric Inspection Process

17. Stage 1
Stage 2 Quantity available check
Pattern & Color vs. Reference
FabricFabric InspectionInspection
W kflW kfl
Stage 3
Fabric length, width
& weight check
WorkflowWorkflow
Stage 4
Appearance check
Stage 6
Stage 5
Shade matchingShade matching
Reporting

18. SectionSection 4:4:
Inspection ArrangementInspection Arrangement

19. S h d li I tiScheduling Inspection

20. Inspection ConditionsInspection Conditionsspec o Co d o sspec o Co d o s
A suitable environment is very important for inspection. In
order to speed up the inspection, fabric manufacturer
should provide inspectors with necessary support in loading
and unloading fabric rolls.
All fabrics are to be inspected on an inspection frame with
a variable speed motor and proper lighting.
The fabric will be inspected at a speed that is compatible
with the fabric quality, but should never exceed:
25 yards/meter per minute for solid colors;25 yards/meter per minute for solid colors;
15 yards/meter per minute for printed/ pattern fabrics;.
The fabric inspection quantity depends on the fabric types:The fabric inspection quantity depends on the fabric types:
about 1,500 to 2,000 yards per day;

21. SectionSection 5:5:
FabricFabric Inspection HighlightsInspection Highlights

22. InspectionInspection ProcedureProcedure –– Fabric WidthFabric Width
Cuttable width will be checked at minimum three
ti d i th i ti f ll (10 d ftimes during the inspection of a roll (10 yards from
beginning, middle and 10 yards from end of the roll).
Assign 4 point (4-point system only) to each linear
yard of fabric where the cuttable width is less than they
minimum specified.

23. InspectionInspection ProcedureProcedure –– Fabric LengthFabric Length
Fabric length can be measured by a meter which is set
up on the fabric inspection machine. Otherwise, the
lt t b t if th f b i l th iresult may not be accurate if the fabric length is
measured manually on a table, particularly for knit
fabrics.
If a fabric roll length is 2% shorter from the ordered
ticket it may be rejected. Penalty points will not be
i d f ll l th i ti b t it h ll bassigned for roll length variation, but it shall be
included in the inspection report.

24. Common Fabric Defects
• Abrasion Mark
• Bow
• Hole
• Mispick
• Skew
• Crease
• Oil Stain
• Double Pick
• Misprint
• Slub• Oil Stain
• Dye Stain
• Slub
• Contamination/Color fly
24

25. Inspection ProceduresInspection Procedures –– Bow / SkewBow / Skew
Rolls found with Bow / Skew exceeding tolerance level will be graded
as “Second quality”
FABRIC TYPE TOLERANCE
SOLID COLOR 3% of overall widthSOLID COLOR 3% of overall width
YARN DYE / PRINTING 2% of overall width
BOW SKEW

26. InspectionInspection ProcedureProcedure –– Shade MatchingShade Matching
Color shade evaluation consists of the following points:
Color shade comparison against reference sample
Side to Side / Side to Center
End to End
Roll to Roll
Note: Common use light source: D65 daylight

27. Sid t SidSid t Sid Sh d E l tiSh d E l tiSide to SideSide to Side Shade EvaluationShade Evaluation

28. End to EndEnd to End Shade EvaluationShade EvaluationEnd to EndEnd to End Shade EvaluationShade Evaluation

29. Roll to RollRoll to Roll Shade EvaluationShade EvaluationRoll to RollRoll to Roll Shade EvaluationShade Evaluation

30. InspectionInspection ProcedureProcedure –– AATCC Gray ScaleAATCC Gray Scale
GRADE EXPLANATION
5 NEGLIGIBLE OR NO CHANGE
4 54-5
4 SLIGHTLY CHANGED
3-4
3 NOTICEABLE CHANGED
2-3
2 CONSIDERABLE CHANGED
1-2
1 MUCH CHANGED1 MUCH CHANGED
GenerallyGenerally Acceptable LevelAcceptable LevelGenerallyGenerally Acceptable LevelAcceptable Level

31. InspectionInspection ProcedureProcedure –– Fabric WeightFabric Weight
At least two samples in different rolls should be weighed.At least two samples in different rolls should be weighed.
General tolerance:
+/-5% of fabric weighing < 10 oz./sq.yd
+/-3% of fabric weighing ≥ 10 oz./sq.yd+/ 3% of fabric weighing ≥ 10 oz./sq.yd
For example:
Order request: 6.0 oz/sq.yd. (Requirement: +/-5%)
If the finding is 6.15 oz/sq.yd. Accepted
If the finding is 6.40 oz/sq.yd. Rejected
STEPS:STEPS:
The fabric swatch should be drawn at least 1 yard from the beginning/end.
Cut the sampled fabric with punch.
For accuracy, use electronic balance to weight fabric.

32. InspectionInspection ProcedureProcedure –– Punch and ScalePunch and Scale

33. InspectionInspection ProcedureProcedure –– PackagingPackaging
Fabric shall be rolled onto a tube with the necessary
wall thickness and strength to ensure the fabric reaches
its destination in good condition.
Tube diameter shall be at least 1.5” in diameter, but not
more than 2” in diameter.more than 2 in diameter.

34. InspectionInspection ProcedureProcedure –– PackagingPackaging
Tubes shall not protrude more than 1” on either end of the
fabric roll.fabric roll.
Tube rolls with telescoped or loosely wound fabric will
not be accepted.