1. Shrinkage is defined as a dimensional change in a fabric or garment caused by the application of force, energy, or a change in environment. There are several types of shrinkage including relaxation, swelling, and felting shrinkage.
2. Construction shrinkage is the dimensional change based solely on the construction variables used to create the fabric. Processing shrinkage is the dimensional change added or removed during finishing and manufacturing processes.
3. Many factors affect shrinkage, including fiber type, yarn construction, wet processes, finishing procedures, manufacturing techniques, and care methods. In the denim industry, excessive shrinkage is undesirable and is typically controlled through finishing processes like compressive shrinking.
Basic knowledge about blend dyeing
Dyeing of Blended Fibres & Fabrics
Blends:
Blends are any textile material from fiber through yarn to fabric which are deliberate combination of chemically or physically different fibrous polymer. Cotton and Polyester blend is an example of chemically different blend and Cotton and Viscose is physically different blend because both are cellulosic.
Reason for blending:
1.Economy: The dilution of an expensive fibre by blending with a cheaper substitute.
2.Durability: The incorporation of a more durable component to extend the useful life of a relatively fragile fibre.
3.Physical properties: A compromise to take advantage of desirable performance charactristics contribuition by both fibre components.
4.Color: The development of new fabric design for garments incorporating multicolor effect.
5.Appearance: The attainment of attractive appearance & perceptible qualities using combinations of yarns of different lusture, crimp or denier which still differ in appearance even when dyed with same color.
6.Other reasons-
Blending develops fibre properties.
Colorant modification is possible by blending.
Finishing process modification.
Improved moisture absorption, antistatic characteristics, reduced pilling, improved abrasion resistance.
Dyeing Possibilities with Blends:
1.Union Dyeing:
• This is suitable for fabrics containing two fibres to dye them in a single uniform colour, each dye suitable for one kind of fibre in the blend.
• Union dyeing is same as cross dyeing except that instead of multi-colour effects. One solid colour is produced. The dyer accomplishes this by using two or more classes of dye, each of the same colours.
• Different fibres may require different dyes to obtain the same colour; this may be done by putting the appropriate colour dye that is specific to each type of fibre in to one dye bath.
• For eg: a fabric composed of rayon and acetate can be dyed with a solid colour green by using a direct dye for the rayon, and a disperse dye of the same colour for the acetate.
2.Resist/Reserve dyeing:
• In resist dyeing at least one (but not all) of the components of the blend remains essentially undyed i.e almost white.
3.Cross dyeing:
• Cross dyeing produces fibres of contrasting color
• This is two types-
a)Shadow effect/Tone-in-Tone dyeing:
Two fibres are dyed in same hue & brightness but the depth is different. It is called tone-in-tone or shadow effect.
b)Contrast effect:
Two fibres are dyed with strong difference in hue, brightness & depth.This is called contrast effect. Pleasing final appearance is important here.
Terry fabric is a knitted fabric with ring yarn or terry covering at one or both sides. It belongs to one of the fancy knitted fabrics. Terry fabric is characterized by soft touch, thick texture, excellent water absorption and heat retention. Terry fabric can be divided into single-sided and double-sided terry loop fabrics. The terry can form pattern effect on the knitting surface distributed according to some certain rules. Terry fabric after shearing or other process can be turned into fleece fabric or velvet fabric.
Denim is a sturdy cotton warp-faced textile in which the weft passes under two or more warp threads. This twill weaving produces a diagonal ribbing that distinguishes it from cotton duck.
Denim is available in a range of colors, but the most common denim is indigo denim in which the warp thread is dyed while the weft thread is left white. As a result of the warp-faced twill weaving, one side of the textile is dominated by the blue warp threads and the other side is dominated by the white weft threads. Jeans fabricated from this cloth are thus predominantly white on the inside.
Bahauddin Zakariya University College of Textile Engineering.
This procedure is sometimes referred to as “Burn Out”. A cotton / polyester blended fabric can be printed with a print paste containing the burn out chemicals, and after fixation, the cotton portion is destroyed and only the polyester remains. Burn-out textiles is a technique used to develop raised designs on fabric surface. This is primarily being done in fabrics with at least 2 different fibre content i.e. Cotton-Polyester, Silk-Rayon etc.
Feeder stripe, Engineering stripe and Auto stripe mechanismAzmir Latif Beg
Auto stripe machine give stable structure with auto-stripper device, which could get various colors. Auto stripe & Engineering is commonly mark in use that does not goes with their definition. Today I will discuss regarding knit stripe patter.
Basic knowledge about blend dyeing
Dyeing of Blended Fibres & Fabrics
Blends:
Blends are any textile material from fiber through yarn to fabric which are deliberate combination of chemically or physically different fibrous polymer. Cotton and Polyester blend is an example of chemically different blend and Cotton and Viscose is physically different blend because both are cellulosic.
Reason for blending:
1.Economy: The dilution of an expensive fibre by blending with a cheaper substitute.
2.Durability: The incorporation of a more durable component to extend the useful life of a relatively fragile fibre.
3.Physical properties: A compromise to take advantage of desirable performance charactristics contribuition by both fibre components.
4.Color: The development of new fabric design for garments incorporating multicolor effect.
5.Appearance: The attainment of attractive appearance & perceptible qualities using combinations of yarns of different lusture, crimp or denier which still differ in appearance even when dyed with same color.
6.Other reasons-
Blending develops fibre properties.
Colorant modification is possible by blending.
Finishing process modification.
Improved moisture absorption, antistatic characteristics, reduced pilling, improved abrasion resistance.
Dyeing Possibilities with Blends:
1.Union Dyeing:
• This is suitable for fabrics containing two fibres to dye them in a single uniform colour, each dye suitable for one kind of fibre in the blend.
• Union dyeing is same as cross dyeing except that instead of multi-colour effects. One solid colour is produced. The dyer accomplishes this by using two or more classes of dye, each of the same colours.
• Different fibres may require different dyes to obtain the same colour; this may be done by putting the appropriate colour dye that is specific to each type of fibre in to one dye bath.
• For eg: a fabric composed of rayon and acetate can be dyed with a solid colour green by using a direct dye for the rayon, and a disperse dye of the same colour for the acetate.
2.Resist/Reserve dyeing:
• In resist dyeing at least one (but not all) of the components of the blend remains essentially undyed i.e almost white.
3.Cross dyeing:
• Cross dyeing produces fibres of contrasting color
• This is two types-
a)Shadow effect/Tone-in-Tone dyeing:
Two fibres are dyed in same hue & brightness but the depth is different. It is called tone-in-tone or shadow effect.
b)Contrast effect:
Two fibres are dyed with strong difference in hue, brightness & depth.This is called contrast effect. Pleasing final appearance is important here.
Terry fabric is a knitted fabric with ring yarn or terry covering at one or both sides. It belongs to one of the fancy knitted fabrics. Terry fabric is characterized by soft touch, thick texture, excellent water absorption and heat retention. Terry fabric can be divided into single-sided and double-sided terry loop fabrics. The terry can form pattern effect on the knitting surface distributed according to some certain rules. Terry fabric after shearing or other process can be turned into fleece fabric or velvet fabric.
Denim is a sturdy cotton warp-faced textile in which the weft passes under two or more warp threads. This twill weaving produces a diagonal ribbing that distinguishes it from cotton duck.
Denim is available in a range of colors, but the most common denim is indigo denim in which the warp thread is dyed while the weft thread is left white. As a result of the warp-faced twill weaving, one side of the textile is dominated by the blue warp threads and the other side is dominated by the white weft threads. Jeans fabricated from this cloth are thus predominantly white on the inside.
Bahauddin Zakariya University College of Textile Engineering.
This procedure is sometimes referred to as “Burn Out”. A cotton / polyester blended fabric can be printed with a print paste containing the burn out chemicals, and after fixation, the cotton portion is destroyed and only the polyester remains. Burn-out textiles is a technique used to develop raised designs on fabric surface. This is primarily being done in fabrics with at least 2 different fibre content i.e. Cotton-Polyester, Silk-Rayon etc.
Feeder stripe, Engineering stripe and Auto stripe mechanismAzmir Latif Beg
Auto stripe machine give stable structure with auto-stripper device, which could get various colors. Auto stripe & Engineering is commonly mark in use that does not goes with their definition. Today I will discuss regarding knit stripe patter.
Weave is the method or process of interlacing two yarn or similar material so that they cross each other at right angle to produce woven fabric . Traditionally, denim fabric are 3/1 warp-faced twill fabric made from a yarn dyed warp and an undyed weft yarn and the warp yarn is indigo dyed ,however this twill weave fabric is also available in textures, such as cross hatch and jacquard etc. The textures selected during the design development process for upcoming seasons are chosen with the wash treatment in mind, such as enzyme, acid etc and look & performance requirement of finish product.
Best wash look is the best touch of a garment - Garment washing is the best touch of a garment. Same type of garments can produce several effects for several wash.Apparel finishing can change your garments.
A wrinkle, also known as a rhytide, is a fold, ridge or crease in the cloth or garments. Wrinkle is a particular type of pressure in the finished fabric. It is produced during finishing operations by the thickness of the seam used to join pieces for processing.Resin & its use in Denim garments industry to create unique & vintage looks which add value to denim garments & improves it sale ability in market. In 80’s we have seen Resin being used to give non press , iron free trousers & now we are using in Denims to make wrinkles & creases to look natural vintage which stays after multiple home laundries.
Wrinkle resistance varies from quite low in many fabrics to very high in resilient fabrics. In order to form a wrinkle, a fabric’s wrinkle resistance must be overcome. The fabric may, however, produce strains and store potential energy that can become evident as wrinkle recovery under suitable conditions.Resin & its use in Denim garments industry to create unique & vintage looks which add value to denim garments & improves it sale ability in market. In 80’s we have seen Resin being used to give non press , iron free trousers & now we are using in Denims to make wrinkles & creases to look natural vintage which stays after multiple home laundries.
Non woven
Nonwoven fabrics are broadly defined as sheet or web structures made of fibers or filaments bonded or interlocked together by mechanical, thermal, chemical or solvent means. They are flat, porous sheets that are made directly from separate fibers or from molten plastic or plastic film. They are not made by weaving or knitting and do not require converting the fibers to yarn.
Interlining is a very important in apparel manufacturing. Interlining is one kind of accessories that is used between the two layers of fabric in a garment.
You can have a good idea about Garment interlining when you go through this. I would like to thank for the original author who made this best article.
You can contact us for any of your interlining or technical requirements.
alex.bd@hansellanka.lk
2. 1 SHRINKAGE
The term shrinkage can simply be defined as a change in the dimensions of a fabric or
garment. This dimensional change may be in a positive (growth) or negative (shrinkage)
direction for fabric length, width, and thickness. For a cotton fabric, shrinkage relates to the loss
of the length and/or width dimensions.
Shrinkage is a dimensional change in a fabric or garment caused by an application of a
force, energy, or a change in environment that either allows the goods to relax or forces the
fabric to move in a given direction. When yarns are woven into fabrics they are subjected to
considerable tensions, particularly in warp direction. In subsequent finishing processes such as
calendaring, this stretch may be increased and temporarily set into the fabric. The fabric is then
in a state of dimensional instability, subsequently when the fabric is thoroughly wetted it tends to
revert its more stable dimensions which results in the contraction of yarns. This effect is usually
greater in warp direction than in weft direction.
1.1 Types of shrinkage:
There are number of different causes of dimensional change. Some of which are
connected to one another. Relaxation shrinkage can affect any fiber type. Following types of
dimensional change are generally recognized.
Hygral expansion
Relaxation shrinkage
Swelling shrinkage
Felting shrinkage
Hygral expansion: It is a property of fabrics made from fibers that absorb moisture, in
particular fabrics made from wool. It is a reversible change in dimensions which takes place
when the moisture regain of a fabric is altered.
Relaxation shrinkage: It is the irreversible dimensional change accompanying the release of
fiber stresses imparted during manufacture which have been set by combined effect of time,
finishing treatments and physical restraints within the structure.
Swelling shrinkage: It results from swelling and de-swelling of the constituent fibers of a
fabric due to the absorption and desorption of water.
3. Felting shrinkage: It results from the frictional properties of component fibers which cause
them to migrate within the structure. This behavior is normally considered to be significant only
for fibers having scale on their surface such as wool.
Shrinkage and the cause of shrinkage can be further defined or broken down into two
different types:
Construction shrinkage
Processing shrinkage.
This means that shrinkage is affected by the construction parameters of the fabric, and it is
also affected by the forces applied in processing in the dyeing and finishing departments as well
as the apparel manufacturing facility.
1.2 Construction Shrinkage:
After cotton fabric is constructed on a knitting machine or weaving loom, it has inherent
characteristics based solely on the yarn construction variables used. These characteristics or
conditions affect various specifications including shrinkage. The type of shrinkage measured at
this point is defined as construction shrinkage. Construction shrinkage is defined as the amount
of dimensional change in a fabric based solely on the construction variables used to create the
fabric.
1.3 Processing Shrinkage:
All processing steps in a finishing and garment wet processing plant affect the
dimensions of a product. Some techniques have more impact than others. These steps create
processing shrinkage, which can be defined as the dimensional change that a process adds to or
removes from the construction shrinkage of a fabric. Length and width dimensions are both
affected, and the fabrics may either be stretched or consolidated. Most often, the length is
stretched and the width is reduced during finishing process. Some of this shrinkage is composed
of elastic shrinkage and can be easily recovered while some of the change in dimensions may not
be recovered, because the elastic limits of the fabric as constructed have been exceeded.
In today’s modern finishing plants, methods are used to attempt to overcome processing
shrinkage and reduce construction shrinkage. The dimensions of fabrics can become set while
4. they are deformed if they are subjected to a suitable process. Fibers that absorb water can be set
if they are deformed while in the wet state and then dried at those dimensions. Thermoplastic
fibers can be set if they are deformed at a comparatively high temperature and then allowed to
cool in the deformed state. The set may be temporary or permanent depending on the severity of
the setting conditions. During relaxation shrinkage it is temporary set that is released. It is
generally the case that deformation that has been set can be released by a more severe treatment
that than the setting treatment.
1.4 Factors affecting shrinkage:
There are many factors that relate to shrinkage. These include the
Fiber type
Yarn size and type
Construction variables
Wet processes
Finishing procedures
Apparel manufacturing techniques
Garment care methods
Cellulosic fibers are not as easily stabilized as are thermoplastic synthetics, because they
cannot be heat set to attain stability. The comfort and overall appeal of cotton has resulted in
greater demand by the consumer and by usage in the textile industry. Therefore, the relaxation of
fabrics made with cotton fibers requires either mechanical and/or chemical means for
stabilization.
The manner by which fibers are oriented in a yarn will affect certain properties of the
fabric including shrinkage. Cotton singles yarns of high twist will usually yield higher shrinkage
values than yarns of lower twist levels and will certainly yield greater skewing or torqueing.
Different constructions can have significantly different shrinkage characteristics.
Finishing procedures may reduce or increase the dimensional stability of the fabric. If relaxation
dryers, compactors, and/or cross linking agents are used, then the residual shrinkage after wet
processing can be reduced
5. Figure 1.1
Apparel manufacturing processes often increase the level of shrinkage in a fabric. The
laying down of the layers for cutting and the physical manipulation of the panels in sewing are
examples of where shrinkage values can be increased. In fact, garments comprised of different
fabric constructions may have some panels relax with handling in cut-and-sew while other panels
may grow.
Garment care labeling and laundering practices will have a direct influence on shrinkage
performance. If the label calls for line or flat drying, then mostly elastic shrinkage will affect
performance.
In denim industry the shrinkage is the major problem. The excessive shrinkage level is
undesirable for the fabrics to be made into the garments and is usually controlled in finishing
processes.
1.5 Compressive shrinkage:
This is a mechanical finishing process that is used in denim industry. Compressive shrinkage is
defined as any operation performed to improve the fabric appearance or function by physical
6. manipulation, Steam or heat may be accompanied the physical manipulation; however chemicals
and other lubricants are seldom used. The method includes drying, compaction, and/or chemical
processes.
Fabric properties affected by the process are
Luster
Smoothness
Softness
Residual shrinkage
Hand
In a few mills compressive shrinking of denim fabric is carried out in a separate range. A
heavy duty shrinkage machine is used for shrinking of denim fabric up to 14 – 17%.While others
use the integrated finishing range.
Integrated finishing and shrinkage:
In integrated finishing range finishing of denim fabric is carried out in a single range. In this
process the fabric is first passed through the brushing and singeing unit to remove the loose fluff
and lint from fabric surface and then padded to apply finish to the fabric. Many different
softeners and finishes are available which are suitable to denim fabric.
The fabric is then stretched by passing through two pulling devices and then skewed. After
skewing it is passed through the drying cylinders for partial drying of fabric. Subsequently the
fabric runs through a compressive shrinkage unit followed by drying and calendaring.
Sanforizing:
Mechanical compacting is one method of reducing residual shrinkage. The process forces the
yarns closer together and fabric becomes thicker and heavier. As a result of this the net residual
shrinkage reduces. The term Sanforized is a registered trademark and is used to market the fabric
that meets certain shrinkage specifications.
Fabric is passed through the sanforizer head followed by the steam heated cylinders used to set
the Sanforized or shrink fabric. The key to any compacter is head where the force is applied to
move the parallel yarns closer together. More length of fabric must be fed into the Head than the
delivered one.
A sanforizer actually uses a thick rubber blanket running against a steam heated cylinder.
This thick blanket goes over a small diameter roller which stretches the convex surface of
7. blanket. Fabric is passed outer the stretched blanket and the fabric and blanket come together in
contact with the steam heated cylinder. At that point the rubber surface contracts to its original
length and is forced to contract an additional amount as it forms the concave configuration of
heated drum ultimately the yarns in fabric become closed.
1.6 Parameters for process control:
The main parameters that affect the shrinkage level are
Moisture
Pressure between the roller and rubber belt
Due to the continuous stretching and relaxing of blanket, heat is generated. The blanket is
then cooled by spraying water on it after the fabric has been delivered through the unit. The
degree of shrinkage is controlled by the thickness of blanket. For better results the degree of
compactness is pre-determined which is done by characterizing the shrinkage behavior of fabric
by laundering. Degree of compacting should not exceed the degree of shrinkage.
8. 2 SHRINKAGE EVALUATION
The shrinkage is evaluated by conducting the physical washing tests.
2.1 Construction Shrinkage
The following procedure is adopted for construction shrinkage measurement & evaluation;
Samples are made of the fabric manufactured.
The samples are marked with the help of AATCC standard scale with the help of textile
marker.
The samples are over-locked to avoid fraying during washing.
After marking samples are conditioned
The samples are washed by three home launderings (3HL).
After drying, samples are again conditioned.
In the end, shrinkage is measured for both warp and weft dimensions.
Samples:
25inch × 25inch
Marked at 18inch × 18inch.
Conditioning of Samples:
Temperature 21o
C ± 1o
C
Relative humidity 65% ± 2%
Time 4 hours before wash and 4 hours after wash
Machines used for 3HL
Kenmore
Vascator
9. Three home Laundering
Recipe:
Chemicals Quantity
Sodium per borate 1g/l
ECE 3.85 g/l
Liquid Detergent 45 ml
Conditions:
Temperature
40o
for stretchable denim
60o
for rigid denim
Time 67 min for every washing cycle
Procedure:
Water and chemicals are loaded in the machine.
Samples are also added.
Then the machine is put into running position and samples are washed under the above
mentioned conditions.
After one complete washing cycle fabric samples are unloaded and dried.
Then the samples are again put into the machine and the whole procedure is repeated.
After the completion of second cycle, the samples are again dried and the cycle is
repeated for the third time.
Shrinkage Test:
After washing and conditioning the fabric samples are measured on marks with the help
of same scale.
Shrinkage percentage is calculated in both warp and weft directions by using the formula:
Shrinkage % = Change in length × 100
Original Length
10. 2.1.1 Shrinkage in Rigid and Stretch Denim
Denim fabric without any stretch properties are known as rigid denim.
Stretch denim fabrics have pronounced values of stretch. These are made up of the yarns
having elastomeric core.
Fabric
no.
Count
Fabric
Type
Denier+
draft
Picks/inch
Weave
Type
Shrinkage (%)
Warp Weft
1 10 Ne
Rigid - 40 3/1 Z twill -6.5 -13
Lycra 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -7.23 -24.84
2 14 Ne
Rigid - 40 3/1 Z twill -2 -12.3
Lycra 70 + 3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -3.7 -21.9
Table 2.1.1
Figure 2.1.1
Shrinkage (%) behaivior of Rigid n
Stretch Denim in warp
-8
-7
-6
-5
-4
-3
-2
-1
0
Rigid
Lycra
Shrinkage(%)
10 Ne
14 Ne
11. Figure 2.1.2
Conclusion:
By comparing the fabrics, it is concluded that stretch denim shrinks more than rigid denim,
as core-spun yarn undergo more tensions during yarn manufacturing and weaving of fabric.
So stretch denim tends to shrink more when it acquires relax state.
Shrinkage (%) behaivior between Rigid
n Stretch denim in Weft
-30
-25
-20
-15
-10
-5
0
Rigid
Lycra
Shrinkage(%)
10 Ne
14 Ne
12. 2.1.2 Shrinkage in Stretch Denim due to varying Picks per Inch
No. of
Observations
Count Denier+Draft Picks/inch
Weave
Type
Shrinkage
Warp Weft
1
10 lycra 70+3.91 40
3/1 Z-
twill -6.5 -23
10
spandex 70+3.91 40
3/1 Z-
twill -5 -22.13
10 lycra
slub 70+3.91 40
3/1 Z-
twill -4.12 -24.5
2
10 lycra 70+3.91 44
3/1 Z-
twill -5.37 -19.5
10
spandex 70+3.91 44
3/1 Z-
twill -4.5 -20.25
10 lycra
slub 70+3.91 44
3/1 Z-
twill -4.5 -22.5
Table 2.1.2
Figure 2.1.3
Shrinkage in Warp due to Picks per inch
-7
-6
-5
-4
-3
-2
-1
0
10lycra
10
spandex
10lycra
slub
Shrinkage(%)
40 Picks
per inch
44 Picks
per inch
13. Figure 2.1.4
Conclusion:
By varying the picks per inch in different stretch denim fabrics, shrinkage percentage is
varied. Due to Increase in no. of picks per inch, shrinkage percentage will decrease. Due to
more picks per inch, there will be less space for the yarns to relax after swelling that’s why
shrinkage decreases.
Shrinkage in weft by varying Picks per
inch
-30
-25
-20
-15
-10
-5
0
10lycra
10
spandex
10lycra
slub
Shrinkage(%)
40 picks
per inch
44 picks
per inch
14. 2.1.3 Shrinkage due to varying Draft and Denier
Fabric
no.
Count
Denier+
draft
Picks
Weave
Type
Shrinkage (%)
Warp Weft
1
10 Lycra 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z twill -6.5 -23
10 Spandax 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z twill -5 -22.13
10 Lycra slub 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z twill -4.12 -24.5
2
10 Lycra 40+3.24 40 3/1 Z twill -6.23 -20.5
10 Spandax 40+3.25 40 3/1 Z twill -4.87 -18.75
10 Lycra slub 40+3.25 40 3/1 Z twill -4.2 -18.77
Table 2.1.3
Figure 2.1.5
Shrinkage (%) in Warp due to Draft+Denier
-7
-6
-5
-4
-3
-2
-1
0
10Lycra
10
Spandax
10Lycra
slub
Shrinkage(%)
70+3.91
40+3.24
15. Figure 2.1.6
Conclusion:
Denier and draft values directly affect the shrinkage behavior of stretch denim. More is the
draft values, more will be shrinkage. The level of stretch-ability of yarn depends on the given
draft and fabric made of highly stretched yarns will relax more and hence the shrinkage % of
fabric will increase as there are more tensions on the yarns.
Shrinkage (%) in Weft due to
Draft+Denier
-30
-25
-20
-15
-10
-5
0
10Lycra
10
Spandax
10Lycra
slub
Shrinkage(%)
70+3.91
40+3.24
16. 2.1.4 Shrinkage due to varying Weft Count
No. of
Observations
Count
Type of
Yarn
Denier +
Draft
Picks/inch
Weave
Type
Shrinkage
Warp Weft
1
10
Single
Lycra 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -6.5 -23
Spandex 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -5 -22.13
Lycra
Slub
70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -4.12 -24.5
2
14
Single
Lycra 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -6.1 -19.89
Spandex 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -4.4 -21.13
Lycra
Slub
70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -4 -21.5
Table 2.1.4
Figure 2.1.7
Shrinkage (%) in Warp due to Weft
Count
-7
-6
-5
-4
-3
-2
-1
0
Lycra
Spandex
Lycra
Slub
Shrinkage(%)
10 Single
14 Single
17. Figure 2.1.8
Conclusion:
By comparing the fabrics having same construction (picks per inch) but different counts,
we concluded that coarser the yarn count more will be the shrinkage in fabric. Due to the
coarse yarn counts, there is more swelling in the yarns which tend to contract the fabric.
Shrinkage in weft due to Weft Count
-25
-20
-15
-10
-5
0
Lycra
Spandex
Lycra
Slub
Shrinkage(%)
10 Single
14 Single
18. 2.1.5 Shrinkage Due to varying Yarn Types
Trial No. Count
Fabric
Type
Denier+
draft
Picks/inch
Weave
Type
Shrinkage (%)
Warp Weft
1
10 Ne
Cotton
lycra
70+3.91 40
3/1 Z
twill
-6.5 -23
2 Poly lycra 70+3.91 40
3/1 Z
twill
-6.1 -19.8
Table 2.1.5
Figure 2.1.9
Shrinkage (%) in Warp due to Yarn
Type
-6.6
-6.5
-6.4
-6.3
-6.2
-6.1
-6
-5.9
Cotton lycra Poly lycra
Shrinkage(%)
19. Figure 2.1.10
Conclusion:
It is concluded that fabric made of cotton Lycra will shrink more than poly Lycra. This
is due to the reason that cotton has more affinity for the water than polyester so it will absorb
more moisture which results in more swelling of yarns; hence there is more shrinkage in fabric.
Shrinkage (%) in weft due to Yarn
Type
-24
-23
-22
-21
-20
-19
-18
Cotton lycra Poly lycra
Shrinkage(%)
21. Figure 2.1.12
Conclusion:
The results shows that stretch denim fabric worth 3/1 twill shrinks more than 2/1 twill
denim as 3/1 twill has loose structure and more spaces.
Shrinkage(%) in Weft due to Weave
Type
-25
-20
-15
-10
-5
0
10lycra
10
spandex
10lycra
slub
Shrinkage(%)
3/1 Z-twill
2/1 Z-twill
22. 2.1.7 Shrinkage (%) due to Slub Yarns
Fabric
no.
Count
Denier+
draft
Picks
Weave
Type
Shrinkage
(%)
Warp Weft
1 10 Lycra 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z twill -6.5 -23
2
10 Lycra
slub
70+3.91 40 3/1 Z twill -4.12 -24.5
Table 2.1.7
Figure 2.1.13
Shrinkage (%) in warp in Lycra and lycra
-7
-6
-5
-4
-3
-2
-1
0
10 Lycra 10 Lycra slub
Shrinkage(%)
23. Figure 2.1.14
Conclusion:
Slub swells more when soaked in water. So due to more swellness, shrinkage in
yarn will be more.
Shrinkage (%) in weft in Lycra and Lycra
slub
-25
-24.5
-24
-23.5
-23
-22.5
-22
10 Lycra 10 Lycra slub
Shrinkage(%)
24. 2.2 PROCESSING SHRINKAGE
The following procedure is adopted for process shrinkage measurement & evaluation;
Samples are taken as for construction shrinkage.
For finished fabric, 3HL washing is done at same conditions as in construction shrinkage.
Studying washing conditions like temperature, washing cycles and washing types, 3HL is
done.
Time is studied in Industrial washes.
Conditions:
Temperature 40o
C, 49o
C, 60o
C
Time 25 min, 40 min, 55 min
INDUSTRIAL WASHES:
Rinse Wash:
Recipe
Chemicals Quality
Detergent (CP) 100ml
Softener (Belfacin) 200ml
Enzyme (Aquazyme) 50ml
Acid 400ml
Conditions:
Time 15min
Temperature 60~70o
C
pH 6~7
25. Stone Wash:
Recipe
Chemical Quantity
Old Stone 5 kg
New Stone 5kg
Enzyme ( Valumax ) 150kg
Acid 400ml
Water 120 gallon
Conditions
Time 30~40 min
Temperature 60o
C
pH 5~6
Bleaching:
Recipe
Chemicals Quantity
Water 150litre
Bleaching Powder Bleaching Liquid (H2O2) 300g 500ml
Conditions:
Time 10min
Temperature 50o
C
26. Neutralization:
Recipe
CHEMICALS QUANTITIES
Sodium Meta bisulphite (Na2S2O5) 350ml
Water 150 liter
Tint Wash:
Recipe:
CHEMICALS QUANTITIES
Direct Dye 0.5gm
Salt 1kg
Softener (NI) 60ml
Water 150 liter
Conditions:
Time 10min
Temperature 70o
C
FABRICS USED FOR PROCESSING SHRINKAGE
Fabric No. Warp Count Weft Count Ends/inch Picks/inch Weave Type
F1 9.2 14/1+30D 64 48 2/1 RHT
F2 6.3 16/1+40D 68 44 2/1 RHT
F3 9 9/1+70D 64 45 2/1 RHT
Table 2.2
28. Figure 2.2.1
Figure 2.2.2
Conclusion:
The comparison of shrinkage % at different washing time’s shows by increasing the washing
time, shrinkage % tends to increase.
Shrinkage (%) in warp due to Washing time
-5
-4
-3
-2
-1
0
25 40 55
Time (min)
Shrinkage(%)
F1
F2
F3
Shrinkage (%) in weft due to washing time
-12
-10
-8
-6
-4
-2
0
25 40 55
Time (min)
Shrinkage(%)
F1
F2
F3
29. 2.2.2 Shrinkage (%) due to varying Temperature
Fabric
No.
Weight (oz
per sq. yd)
Temperature
(o
C)
Shrinkage %
Warp Weft
F1
10.5 40 -0.4 -5.8
10.6 49 -1 -6.1
10.9 60 -1.9 -6.3
F2
11.6 40 -1.4 -10.8
11.7 49 -1.7 -11.4
11.8 60 -2 -11.9
F3
10.7 40 -2.4 -2.6
10.9 49 -2.6 -3.3
11 60 -2.9 -5
Table 2.2.2
30. Figure 2.2.3
Figure 2.2.4
Shrinkage (%) in warp due to Washing
Temperature
-4
-3
-2
-1
0
40 49 60
Temperature (o
C)
Shrinkage(%)
F1
F2
F3
Shrinkage (%) in weft due to Washing
Temperature
-14
-12
-10
-8
-6
-4
-2
0
40 49 60
Temperature (oC)
Shrinkage(%)
F1
F2
F3
31. 2.2.3 Shrinkage (%) due to different Washing Cycles
Fabric
No.
Weight (oz
per sq. yd)
Washing
Cycle
Shrinkage %
Warp Weft
F1
10.4 1 HL -0.37 -2.38
10.6 3 HL -1 -6.1
F2
11.53 1 HL -0.62 -4.69
11.7 3 HL -1.7 -11.4
F3
10.8 1 HL -1.5 -1.73
10.9 3 HL -2.6 -3.3
Table 2.2.3
Figure 2.2.5
Shrinkage (%) in warp due to Washing
Cycles
-3
-2.5
-2
-1.5
-1
-0.5
0
1 HL 3 HL
Washing Cycle
Shrinkage(%)
F1
F2
F3
32. Figure 2.2.6
Conclusion:
The comparison of shrinkage % at different washing cycles shows that shrinkage % tends to
increase by increasing no. of washing cycles.
Shrinkage (%) in weft due to Washing
Cycles
-12
-10
-8
-6
-4
-2
0
1 HL 3 HL
Washing Cycles
Shrinkage(%) F1
F2
F3
33. 2.2.4 Shrinkage (%)due to Washing Type
Fabric
No.
Weight
(oz per
sq. yd)
Washing Type
Shrinkage (%)
Warp Weft
F1
10.6 3 HL -1 -6.1
10.7 Industrial Wash -1.8 -5.8
F2
11.7 3 HL -1.7 -11.4
11.8 Industrial Wash -1.9 -11.8
F3
10.9 3 HL -2.6 -3.3
11.3 Industrial Wash -3.9 -5
Table 2.2.4
Figure 2.2.7
Shrinkage (%) in warp due to Washing Types
-4.5
-4
-3.5
-3
-2.5
-2
-1.5
-1
-0.5
0
3 HL Industrial Wash
Washing Types
Shrinkage(%)
F1
F2
F3
34. Figure 2.2.8
Conclusion:
As industrial washing compose of many washing types and cycles with varying washing
conditions, so sometimes the shrinkage values are higher for industrial wash.
Shrinkage (%) in weft in Washing type
-14
-12
-10
-8
-6
-4
-2
0
3 HL Industrial Wash
Washing Type
Shrinkage(%)
F1
F2
F3
35. 2.2.5 Shrinkage % due to different Industrial Washing Types
First Wash:
First wash may include any of these washing types depending upon desired look and
properties as demanded by the customer:
Rinse Wash
Rinse and Stone wash
Rinse and Stone wash with softener
Rinse and Stone wash with tint.
Rinse and Stone Wash with tint and softener.
FABRIC 1:
Washing
Type
Weight (oz
per sq. yd)
Shrinkage %
Warp Weft
Rinse Wash 10.2 0.4 -4
Rinse + Stone
Wash
10.5 0 -6.6
Rinse + Stone
Wash +
Softener
10.6 -1.4 -7.9
Rinse +Stone
+ Tint Wash
10.5 -1.3 -7.8
Rinse + Stone
+ Tint Wash +
Softener
10.5 -1.5 -7.9
Table 2.2.5
36. Figure 2.2.9
Second wash:
After first wash, any one or more of the following washes can be done according to the
look and properties demanded by the customer. The second wash includes:
Rinse and Bleach wash
Bleach wash with Neutralization
Bleach wash and Neutralization with Tint wash
Bleach wash and Neutralization with Softener
Bleach wash and Neutralization with Tint and Softener
Shrinkage in Fabric Samples due to
Different washing types
-10
-8
-6
-4
-2
0
2
RinseWash
Rinse+Stone
Wash
Rinse+Stone
Wash+Softner
Rinse+Stone+Tint
Wash
Rinse+Stone+Tint
Wash+Softner
Washing Types
Shrinkage(%)
Warp
Weft
37. Fabric 1:
Washing Type
Weight (oz
per sq. yd)
Shrinkage %
Warp Weft
Rinse + Bleach Wash 9.9 -1.3 -4.4
Bleach Wash + Neutralization 10 -1.6 -4.3
Bleach Wash + Neutralization + Tint 10.3 -1 -5.5
Bleach Wash + Neutralization + Softener 10.4 -1.1 -5.4
Bleach Wash + Neutralization + Tint + Softener 10.5 -1.3 -6
Table 2.2.6
Figure 2.2.10
Conclusion:
Shrinkage behavior is different for the different industrial washes depending the
procedure and combination of washes under which fabric go through. The different washing
types depend upon the customer requirement.
Shrinkage (%) in Fabric Sample due to Different Washes
-7
-6
-5
-4
-3
-2
-1
0
Rinse + Bleach W
ash
Bleach + Nuetralization
Bleach + Nuetralization + Tint
Bleach + Nuetralization + Softener
Bleach + Nuetralization + Tint + Softener
Shrinkage(%)
Warp
Weft