INDUSTRIAL CHEMISTRY
SHAMPOO INDUSTRY
PROJECT
SHAMPOOINDUSTRY
Page1
TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION………………………………………………………………..…….2
Definition
History
Requirements of shampoo
Types of Shampoo
FORMULATIONS……………………………………………………………….….…3
Powder Shampoo
Liquid Shampoo
Cream Shampoo
Jelly Shampoo
Aerosol Shampoo
Conditioning Shampoo
Two Layer Shampoo
Baby Shampoo
Anti-Dandruff Shampoo
Herbal Shampoo
RAW MATERIALS………………………………………….………………………..5
Water
Detergents
Foam Boosters
Thickeners
Conditioning Agents
Preservatives
Modifiers
Special Additives
MANUFACTURING PROCESS……………..………………………………………6
Compounding
Quality Control
Filling
EVALUATION……………………………..…………………………………………8
Foam Stability
Detergency
Wetting Action
Rinsing
Conditioning Action
Eye Irritancy
Viscosity
REFERENCES………………………………………………………………………10
SHAMPOOINDUSTRY
Page2
INTRODUCTION
Shampoos are cleaning formulations used for a wide range of applications, including personal
care, pet use, and carpets. Most are manufactured in roughly the same manner. They are
composed primarily of chemicals called surfactants that have the special ability to surround oily
materials on surfaces and allow them to be rinsed away by water. Most commonly, shampoos are
used for personal care, especially for washing the hair.
DEFINITION:
A shampoo is a preparation of a surfactant (i.e. .surface active material) in a suitable form liquid,
solid or powder which when used under the specified conditions will remove surface grease, dirt,
and skin debris from the hairs haft and scalp without adversely affecting the user.
HISTORY:
Before the advent of shampoos, people typically used soap for personal care. However, soap had
the distinct disadvantages of being irritating to the eyes and incompatible with hard water, which
made it leave a dull-looking film on the hair. In the early 1930s, the first synthetic detergent
shampoo was introduced, although it still had some disadvantages. The 1960s brought the
detergent technology we use today.
Over the years, many improvements have been made to shampoo formulations. New detergents
are less irritating to the eyes and skin and have improved health and environmental qualities.
Also, materials technology has advanced, enabling the incorporation of thousands of beneficial
ingredients in shampoos, leaving hair feeling cleaner and better conditioned.
REQUIREMENTS OF A SHAMPOO:
1. It should effectively and completely remove dust or soil, excessive sebum or other fatty
substances and loose corneal cells from the hair.
2. It should produce a good amount of foam to satisfy the psychological requirements of the user.
3. It should be easily removed on rinsing with water.
4. It should leave the hair non dry, soft, lustrous with good manageability and minimum flyaway.
5. It should impart a pleasant fragrance to the hair.
6. It should not cause any side‐ effects/irritation to skin or eye.
7. It should not make the hand rough and chapped.
TYPES OF SHAMPOO:
Shampoos are of the following types:
 Powder Shampoo
 Liquid Shampoo
 Lotion Shampoo
 Cream Shampoo
 Jelly Shampoo
 Aerosol Shampoo
 Specialized Shampoo
 •Conditioning Shampoo
 •Anti‐ dandruff Shampoo
 •Baby Shampoo
 •Two Layer Shampoo
SHAMPOOINDUSTRY
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FORMULATIONS
POWDER SHAMPOO
Henna powder 5%
Soap powder 50%
Sodium carbonate 22.5%
Potassium carbonate 7.5%
Borax 15%
Perfume q.S
LIQUID SHAMPOO
SLS 40%
NaCl (to desired viscosity) 2‐ 4%
Water Upto100%
Perfume, color, preservatives q.s
LOTION SHAMPOO
TLS 35%
Glycerylmonostearate 2%
Magnesiumstearate 1%
Water Upto100%
Color q.s
Preservative, Perfume q.s
CREAM SHAMPOO
SLS 38%
Acetylalcohol 7%
Water Upto100%
Color, perfume q.s
Preservative q.s
JELLY SHAMPOOS
Alkyl dimethylbenzalkoniumchloride 15%
TLS (40%) 28%
Coconut di-ethanolamide 7%
HPMC 1%
Water Upto100%
Color, perfume,preservative q.s
AEROSOL SHAMPOO
TLS 60%
Coconut di-ethanolamide 2%
Water Upto90%
Propellant 10%
Color, perfume, preservative q.s
SHAMPOOINDUSTRY
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CONDITIONING SHAMPOOS
Steryldimethylbenzyl ammonium chloride 5.5%
Ethylene glycol monostearate 2%
acetylalcohol 2.5%
Water Upto100%
Color, perfume,preservative q.s
TWO LAYER SHAMPOO
SLS 27%
Cocamidopropylamineoxide 5%
LauramineDEA 1%
Lactic acid (50%) 1%
Formaldehyde 0.1%
BABY SHAMPOO
Magnesium laurylsulfate (27.5%) 11%
Cocamidopropylbetaine(30%) 5%
Polysorbate20 1%
PEG 600 3.5%
Perfume q.S
Preservative q.S
Citric acid To pH 6
Color q.S
Water (deionized); Aqua (INCI) To 100%
ANTI‐ DANDRUFF SHAMPOO
Thymol 0.05%
Menthol 0.1%
Camphor 0.1%
TLS 55%
Water upto100
Color, perfume,preservative q.s
HERBAL SHAMPOO
Naturalessential oil blend 0.5%
Cyamopsistetragonoloba(Guar Gum) 1%
Camellia sinensis(Green Tea) extract 2%
Glycerin 1%
Hydrolysedwheat protein 2.5%
Salvia officinalis(Sage) leaf extract 1.5%
Salvia officinalis(Sage) 1.5%
Glyceryloleate 1%
Polysorbate20 0.5%
Potassium sorbate 5%
SHAMPOOINDUSTRY
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Aloe barbadensis (Aloe-Vera) extract 0.5%
Arctiumminus (Burdock) root extract 0.5%
Disodium coco‐ glucosidesulfosuccinate 0.5%
Preservatives q.s.
Water Upto100%
RAW MATERIALS
New shampoos are initially created by cosmetic chemists in the laboratory. These scientists
begin by determining what characteristics the shampoo formula will have. They must decide on
aesthetic features such as how thick it should be, what color it will be, and what it will smell like.
They also consider performance attributes, such as how well it cleans, what the foam looks like,
and how irritating it will be. Consumer testing often helps determine what these characteristics
should be.
Once the features of the shampoo are identified, a formula is created in the laboratory. These
initial batches are made in small beakers using various ingredients. In the personal care industry,
nearly all of the ingredients that can be used are classified by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and
Fragrance Association (CTFA) in the governmentally approved collection known as the
International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI). The more important ingredients in
shampoo formulations are water, detergents, foam boosters, thickeners, conditioning agents,
preservatives, modifiers, and special additives.
WATER
The primary ingredient in all shampoos is water, typically making up about 70-80% of the entire
formula. Deionized water, specially treated to remove various particles and ions, and is used in
shampoos. The source of the water can be underground wells, lakes, or rivers.
DETERGENTS
The next most abundant ingredients in shampoos are the primary detergents. These materials,
also known as surfactants, are the cleansing ingredients in shampoos. Surfactants are surface
active ingredients, meaning they can interact with a surface. The chemical nature of a surfactant
allows it to surround and trap oily materials from surfaces. One portion of the molecule is oil
compatible (soluble) while the other is water soluble. When a shampoo is applied to hair or
textiles, the oil soluble portion aligns with the oily materials while the water soluble portion
aligns in the water layer. When a number of surfactant molecules line up like this, they form a
structure known as a micelle. This micelle has oil trapped in the middle and can be washed away
with water, thus giving the shampoo its cleansing power.
Surfactants are derived from compounds known as fatty acids. Fatty acids are naturally occurring
materials which are found in various plant and animal sources. The materials used most often to
make the surfactants used in shampoos are extracted from coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and soy
bean oil. Some common primary detergents used in shampoos are ammonium lauryl sulfate,
sodium lauryl sulfate, and sodium lauryl ether sulfate.
SHAMPOOINDUSTRY
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FOAM BOOSTERS
In addition to cleansing surfactants, other types of surfactants are added to shampoos to improve
the foaming characteristics of the formulation. These materials, called alkanolamides, help
increase the amount of foam and the size of the bubbles. Like primary detergents, they are also
derived from fatty acids and have both water soluble and oil soluble characteristics. Typical
materials include lauramide DEA or cocamide DEA.
THICKENERS
To some extent, the alkanol amides that make shampoos foam also make the formulations
thicker. However, other materials are also used to increase the viscosity. For example,
methylcellulose, derived from plant cellulose, is included in shampoos to make them
thicker. Sodium chloride (salt) also can be used to increase shampoo thickness.
CONDITIONING AGENTS
Some materials are also added to shampoos to offset the sometimes harsh effect of surfactants on
hair and fabrics. Typical conditioning agents include polymers, silicones, and quaternary agents.
Each of these compounds deposit on the surface of the hair and improve its feel, softness, and
combability, while reducing static charge. Shampoos that specifically feature conditioning as a
benefit are called 2-in-1 shampoos because they clean and condition hair in the same step.
Examples of conditioning agents include guar hydroxyl-propyl-trimonium chloride which is a
polymer, di-methicone which is a silicone, and quatemium 80, a quatemary agent.
PRESERVATIVES
Since shampoos are made from water and organic compounds, contamination from bacteria and
other microbes is possible. Preservatives are added to prevent such growth. Two of the most
common preservatives used in shampoos are DMDM hydantoin and methylparaben.
MODIFIERS
Other ingredients are added to shampoo formulas to modify specific characteristics. Opacifiers
are added to make the formula opaque and give it a pearly look. Materials known as sequestering
agents are added to offset the dulling effects of hard water. Acids or bases such as citric acid or
sodium hydroxide are added to adjust the pH of a shampoo so the detergents will provide optimal
cleaning.
SPECIAL ADDITIVES
One of the primary factors that influence the purchase of a shampoo is its color and odor. To
modify these characteristics, manufacturers add fragrance oils and governmentally approved and
certified FD&C dyes. Other special additives can also have a similar effect. Natural materials
such as botanical extracts, natural oils, proteins, and vitamins all impart special qualities and help
sell shampoos. Additives such as zinc pyrithione are included to address the problem of dandruff.
Other additives are dyes which can color the hair.
THE MANUFACTURING PROCESS
After a shampoo formula is developed, it is tested to ensure that its qualities will minimally
change over time. This type of testing, called stability testing is primarily used to detect physical
SHAMPOOINDUSTRY
Page7
changes in such things as color, odor, and thickness. It canalso provide information about other
changes, like microbial contamination and performance differences. This testing is done to
ensure that the bottle of shampoo that is on the store shelves will perform just like the bottle
created in the laboratory.
The manufacturing process can be broken down into two steps. First a large batch of shampoo is
made, and then the batch is packaged in individual bottles.
COMPOUNDING
Large batches of shampoo are made in a designated area of the manufacturing plant. Here
workers, known as compounders, follow the formula instructions to make batches that can be
3,000 gal (11,000 1) or more. Raw materials, which are typically provided in drums as large as
55 gal (200 1) or in 50-lb (23-kg) bags, are delivered to the compounding area via forklift trucks.
They are poured into the batch tank and thoroughly mixed.
Depending on the formula, these batches can be heated and cooled as necessary to help the raw
materials combine more quickly. Some raw materials such as water or the primary detergents are
pumped and metered directly into the batch tank.
These materials are added simply by pressing a button on computerized controls. These controls
also regulate the mixing speeds and the heating and cooling rates. Depending on the size and
type of shampoo, making a 3,000-gal (11,000-1) batch can take anywhere from one to four
hours.
QUALITY CONTROL CHECK
After all the ingredients are added to the batch, a sample is taken to the Quality Control (QC) lab
for testing. Physical characteristics are checked to make sure the batch adheres to the
specifications outlined in the formula instructions. The QC group runs tests such as pH
determination, viscosity checks, and appearance and odor evaluations. They can also check the
amount of detergent that is in the formula and whether there is enough preservative. If the batch
is found to be "out of spec," adjustments can be made. For instance, acids or bases can be added
to adjust the pH, or salt can be added to modify the viscosity. Colors can also be adjusted by
adding more dye.
After a batch is approved by QC, it is pumped out of the main batch tank into a holding tank
where it can be stored until the filling lines are ready. From the holding tank it gets pumped into
the filler, which is made up of a carousel of piston filling heads.
FILLING
At the start of the filling line, empty bottles are put in a large bin called a hopper. Here, the
bottles are physically manipulated until they are correctly oriented and standing upright. They
are then moved along a conveyor belt to the filling carousel, which holds the shampoo.
The filling carousel is made up of a series of piston filling heads that are calibrated to deliver
exactly the correct amount of shampoo into the bottles. As the bottles move through this section
of the filling line, they are filled with shampoo.
From here the bottles move to the capping machine. Much like the bin that holds the empty
bottles, the caps are also put in a hopper and then correctly aligned. As the bottles move by the
caps are put on and twisted tight.
SHAMPOOINDUSTRY
Page8
After the caps are put on, the bottles move to the labeling machines (if necessary). Depending on
the type of labels, they can either be stuck on using adhesives or heat pressed. Labels are stuck to
the bottles as they pass by.
From the labeling area, the bottles move to the boxing area, where they are put into boxes,
typically a dozen at a time. These boxes are then stacked onto pallets and hauled away in large
trucks to distributors. Production lines like this can move at speeds of about 200 bottles a minute
or more.
EVALUATION OF SHAMPOOS
PERFORMANCE CHARACTERISTICS
 Foam and foam stability
 Detergency and cleaning action
 Effect of water hardness
 Surface Tension and wetting
 Surfactant content and analysis
 Rinsing
 Conditioning action
 Softness
 Luster
 Lubricity
 Body, texture and set retention
 Irritation and toxicity
 Dandruff control
 Eye irritancy test
PRODUCT CHARACTERISTICS
 Fragrance
 Color
 Consistency
 Package
1. FOAM AND FOAM STABILITY:
•The Ross‐ Miles foam column test is accepted.200ml of surfactant solution is dropped into a
glass column containing 50ml of the same solution. The height of the foam generate dis
measured immediately, and is considered proportional to the volume.
•Barnett and Powers developed a lathero meter to measure the effect of variables such as water
hardness, type of soil and quantity of soil on foam speed, volume and stability.
•Freydell and Read titrated actual standard oiled heads of hair with additive increments of
shampoo until a persistent lather end point appeared.
2. DETERGENCY AND CLEANING ACTION:
•Cleansing power is evaluated by the method of Barnet and Powers
•5gm sample of soiled human hair is placed at35°c in 200cc of water containing of 1gm of
shampoo.
SHAMPOOINDUSTRY
Page9
•The flask is shaken 50times a minute for 4minutes.Then washed once again with sufficient
amount of water, then after filter the hair dried and weighed.
•The amount of soil is removed under these condition is calculated.
3. WETTING ACTION:
•Canvas disk sinking test: A mount veron cotton duck#6canvas disk1 inch in diameter, is floated
on the surface of a solution, and the time required for it to sink is measured accurately.
4. RINSING:
•Skilled beauticians are employed to make comparisons on the performance of several
shampoos.
5. CONDITIONING ACTION:
•Conditioning action is a difficult property to assess. This is because it is basically dependent on
subjective appraisal.
•No method has been published for measuring conditioning action.
•The degree of conditioning given to hair is ultimately judged by shampoo user who is making
the evaluation on the basis of past experience and present expectations.
6. EVALUATION OF EYE IRRITANCY:
•The test calls for dropping 0.1 ml of liquid shampoo in the
conjunctiva sac of one eye of the rabbit , the other eye serving as control.
•In the case of the first three animals, the treated eye remains unwashed. Since washing the eye
may or may not alleviate symptoms of injury.
•The six remaining animals are divided into two equal groups.
•In the first of these groups eyes instilled with the substances are washed with 20 ml of lukewar
m water two seconds after treatment and in the second group after instillation.
•Readings are then made at 24, 48 and 72 hr. and again four and seven days after treatment.
•If the lesions have not cleared up in seven days the test material is considered as severe irritant.
7. VISCOSITY:
•Viscosity of the liquid shampoo is determined using a Brooke field viscometer
•100 mLof the shampoo is taken in a beaker and the spindle is dipped in it for about 5 min and th
en the reading is taken.
SHAMPOOINDUSTRY
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REFERENCES
1.Balsam,S.M.,Gershon,S.D.,Rieger,M.M.,Sagarin,E.,andStrianse,S.J.:COSMETICS–
ScienceandTechnology,2ndedition,Vol‐ 2,JohnWileyIndia,NewDelhi,2008
2.Barel,A.O.,Paye,M.,andMaibach,H.I.:HandbookofCosmeticScienceand
Technology,3rdEdition,InformaHealthcare,NewYork.
3.Sharma,P.P.:COSMETICS‐ Formulation,ManufacturingandQualityControl,4th
Edition,VandanaPublishersPvt.Ltd.,NewDelhi,March1998.
4.Butler,H.:POUCHER’S–Perfumes,Cosmetics&Soaps,10thEdition,Springer,
Cockermouth,Cumbria,USA,2000.
5. Salador, A.,and Chisvert,A.:Analysisofcosmeticproducts,Elsevier,NewYork,2006.
6. Ross, J., and Miles, G.D. : An application for comparison of foaming properties of soaps and
detergents, Oil and Soap, 1941.
7. Mittal,: A Hand book of Cosmetics
8. Fredell, W.G., and Powers, D .H. : Factors attributing to the performance of shampoos
andtoconsumeracceptance,Proc.Sci.Sec.,1955.
9. Raj Kumar, K. J., In vitro evaluation of shampoos.
10. www.cosmeticdatabase.com

Shampoo industry

  • 1.
  • 2.
    SHAMPOOINDUSTRY Page1 TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION………………………………………………………………..…….2 Definition History Requirementsof shampoo Types of Shampoo FORMULATIONS……………………………………………………………….….…3 Powder Shampoo Liquid Shampoo Cream Shampoo Jelly Shampoo Aerosol Shampoo Conditioning Shampoo Two Layer Shampoo Baby Shampoo Anti-Dandruff Shampoo Herbal Shampoo RAW MATERIALS………………………………………….………………………..5 Water Detergents Foam Boosters Thickeners Conditioning Agents Preservatives Modifiers Special Additives MANUFACTURING PROCESS……………..………………………………………6 Compounding Quality Control Filling EVALUATION……………………………..…………………………………………8 Foam Stability Detergency Wetting Action Rinsing Conditioning Action Eye Irritancy Viscosity REFERENCES………………………………………………………………………10
  • 3.
    SHAMPOOINDUSTRY Page2 INTRODUCTION Shampoos are cleaningformulations used for a wide range of applications, including personal care, pet use, and carpets. Most are manufactured in roughly the same manner. They are composed primarily of chemicals called surfactants that have the special ability to surround oily materials on surfaces and allow them to be rinsed away by water. Most commonly, shampoos are used for personal care, especially for washing the hair. DEFINITION: A shampoo is a preparation of a surfactant (i.e. .surface active material) in a suitable form liquid, solid or powder which when used under the specified conditions will remove surface grease, dirt, and skin debris from the hairs haft and scalp without adversely affecting the user. HISTORY: Before the advent of shampoos, people typically used soap for personal care. However, soap had the distinct disadvantages of being irritating to the eyes and incompatible with hard water, which made it leave a dull-looking film on the hair. In the early 1930s, the first synthetic detergent shampoo was introduced, although it still had some disadvantages. The 1960s brought the detergent technology we use today. Over the years, many improvements have been made to shampoo formulations. New detergents are less irritating to the eyes and skin and have improved health and environmental qualities. Also, materials technology has advanced, enabling the incorporation of thousands of beneficial ingredients in shampoos, leaving hair feeling cleaner and better conditioned. REQUIREMENTS OF A SHAMPOO: 1. It should effectively and completely remove dust or soil, excessive sebum or other fatty substances and loose corneal cells from the hair. 2. It should produce a good amount of foam to satisfy the psychological requirements of the user. 3. It should be easily removed on rinsing with water. 4. It should leave the hair non dry, soft, lustrous with good manageability and minimum flyaway. 5. It should impart a pleasant fragrance to the hair. 6. It should not cause any side‐ effects/irritation to skin or eye. 7. It should not make the hand rough and chapped. TYPES OF SHAMPOO: Shampoos are of the following types:  Powder Shampoo  Liquid Shampoo  Lotion Shampoo  Cream Shampoo  Jelly Shampoo  Aerosol Shampoo  Specialized Shampoo  •Conditioning Shampoo  •Anti‐ dandruff Shampoo  •Baby Shampoo  •Two Layer Shampoo
  • 4.
    SHAMPOOINDUSTRY Page3 FORMULATIONS POWDER SHAMPOO Henna powder5% Soap powder 50% Sodium carbonate 22.5% Potassium carbonate 7.5% Borax 15% Perfume q.S LIQUID SHAMPOO SLS 40% NaCl (to desired viscosity) 2‐ 4% Water Upto100% Perfume, color, preservatives q.s LOTION SHAMPOO TLS 35% Glycerylmonostearate 2% Magnesiumstearate 1% Water Upto100% Color q.s Preservative, Perfume q.s CREAM SHAMPOO SLS 38% Acetylalcohol 7% Water Upto100% Color, perfume q.s Preservative q.s JELLY SHAMPOOS Alkyl dimethylbenzalkoniumchloride 15% TLS (40%) 28% Coconut di-ethanolamide 7% HPMC 1% Water Upto100% Color, perfume,preservative q.s AEROSOL SHAMPOO TLS 60% Coconut di-ethanolamide 2% Water Upto90% Propellant 10% Color, perfume, preservative q.s
  • 5.
    SHAMPOOINDUSTRY Page4 CONDITIONING SHAMPOOS Steryldimethylbenzyl ammoniumchloride 5.5% Ethylene glycol monostearate 2% acetylalcohol 2.5% Water Upto100% Color, perfume,preservative q.s TWO LAYER SHAMPOO SLS 27% Cocamidopropylamineoxide 5% LauramineDEA 1% Lactic acid (50%) 1% Formaldehyde 0.1% BABY SHAMPOO Magnesium laurylsulfate (27.5%) 11% Cocamidopropylbetaine(30%) 5% Polysorbate20 1% PEG 600 3.5% Perfume q.S Preservative q.S Citric acid To pH 6 Color q.S Water (deionized); Aqua (INCI) To 100% ANTI‐ DANDRUFF SHAMPOO Thymol 0.05% Menthol 0.1% Camphor 0.1% TLS 55% Water upto100 Color, perfume,preservative q.s HERBAL SHAMPOO Naturalessential oil blend 0.5% Cyamopsistetragonoloba(Guar Gum) 1% Camellia sinensis(Green Tea) extract 2% Glycerin 1% Hydrolysedwheat protein 2.5% Salvia officinalis(Sage) leaf extract 1.5% Salvia officinalis(Sage) 1.5% Glyceryloleate 1% Polysorbate20 0.5% Potassium sorbate 5%
  • 6.
    SHAMPOOINDUSTRY Page5 Aloe barbadensis (Aloe-Vera)extract 0.5% Arctiumminus (Burdock) root extract 0.5% Disodium coco‐ glucosidesulfosuccinate 0.5% Preservatives q.s. Water Upto100% RAW MATERIALS New shampoos are initially created by cosmetic chemists in the laboratory. These scientists begin by determining what characteristics the shampoo formula will have. They must decide on aesthetic features such as how thick it should be, what color it will be, and what it will smell like. They also consider performance attributes, such as how well it cleans, what the foam looks like, and how irritating it will be. Consumer testing often helps determine what these characteristics should be. Once the features of the shampoo are identified, a formula is created in the laboratory. These initial batches are made in small beakers using various ingredients. In the personal care industry, nearly all of the ingredients that can be used are classified by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association (CTFA) in the governmentally approved collection known as the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI). The more important ingredients in shampoo formulations are water, detergents, foam boosters, thickeners, conditioning agents, preservatives, modifiers, and special additives. WATER The primary ingredient in all shampoos is water, typically making up about 70-80% of the entire formula. Deionized water, specially treated to remove various particles and ions, and is used in shampoos. The source of the water can be underground wells, lakes, or rivers. DETERGENTS The next most abundant ingredients in shampoos are the primary detergents. These materials, also known as surfactants, are the cleansing ingredients in shampoos. Surfactants are surface active ingredients, meaning they can interact with a surface. The chemical nature of a surfactant allows it to surround and trap oily materials from surfaces. One portion of the molecule is oil compatible (soluble) while the other is water soluble. When a shampoo is applied to hair or textiles, the oil soluble portion aligns with the oily materials while the water soluble portion aligns in the water layer. When a number of surfactant molecules line up like this, they form a structure known as a micelle. This micelle has oil trapped in the middle and can be washed away with water, thus giving the shampoo its cleansing power. Surfactants are derived from compounds known as fatty acids. Fatty acids are naturally occurring materials which are found in various plant and animal sources. The materials used most often to make the surfactants used in shampoos are extracted from coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and soy bean oil. Some common primary detergents used in shampoos are ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and sodium lauryl ether sulfate.
  • 7.
    SHAMPOOINDUSTRY Page6 FOAM BOOSTERS In additionto cleansing surfactants, other types of surfactants are added to shampoos to improve the foaming characteristics of the formulation. These materials, called alkanolamides, help increase the amount of foam and the size of the bubbles. Like primary detergents, they are also derived from fatty acids and have both water soluble and oil soluble characteristics. Typical materials include lauramide DEA or cocamide DEA. THICKENERS To some extent, the alkanol amides that make shampoos foam also make the formulations thicker. However, other materials are also used to increase the viscosity. For example, methylcellulose, derived from plant cellulose, is included in shampoos to make them thicker. Sodium chloride (salt) also can be used to increase shampoo thickness. CONDITIONING AGENTS Some materials are also added to shampoos to offset the sometimes harsh effect of surfactants on hair and fabrics. Typical conditioning agents include polymers, silicones, and quaternary agents. Each of these compounds deposit on the surface of the hair and improve its feel, softness, and combability, while reducing static charge. Shampoos that specifically feature conditioning as a benefit are called 2-in-1 shampoos because they clean and condition hair in the same step. Examples of conditioning agents include guar hydroxyl-propyl-trimonium chloride which is a polymer, di-methicone which is a silicone, and quatemium 80, a quatemary agent. PRESERVATIVES Since shampoos are made from water and organic compounds, contamination from bacteria and other microbes is possible. Preservatives are added to prevent such growth. Two of the most common preservatives used in shampoos are DMDM hydantoin and methylparaben. MODIFIERS Other ingredients are added to shampoo formulas to modify specific characteristics. Opacifiers are added to make the formula opaque and give it a pearly look. Materials known as sequestering agents are added to offset the dulling effects of hard water. Acids or bases such as citric acid or sodium hydroxide are added to adjust the pH of a shampoo so the detergents will provide optimal cleaning. SPECIAL ADDITIVES One of the primary factors that influence the purchase of a shampoo is its color and odor. To modify these characteristics, manufacturers add fragrance oils and governmentally approved and certified FD&C dyes. Other special additives can also have a similar effect. Natural materials such as botanical extracts, natural oils, proteins, and vitamins all impart special qualities and help sell shampoos. Additives such as zinc pyrithione are included to address the problem of dandruff. Other additives are dyes which can color the hair. THE MANUFACTURING PROCESS After a shampoo formula is developed, it is tested to ensure that its qualities will minimally change over time. This type of testing, called stability testing is primarily used to detect physical
  • 8.
    SHAMPOOINDUSTRY Page7 changes in suchthings as color, odor, and thickness. It canalso provide information about other changes, like microbial contamination and performance differences. This testing is done to ensure that the bottle of shampoo that is on the store shelves will perform just like the bottle created in the laboratory. The manufacturing process can be broken down into two steps. First a large batch of shampoo is made, and then the batch is packaged in individual bottles. COMPOUNDING Large batches of shampoo are made in a designated area of the manufacturing plant. Here workers, known as compounders, follow the formula instructions to make batches that can be 3,000 gal (11,000 1) or more. Raw materials, which are typically provided in drums as large as 55 gal (200 1) or in 50-lb (23-kg) bags, are delivered to the compounding area via forklift trucks. They are poured into the batch tank and thoroughly mixed. Depending on the formula, these batches can be heated and cooled as necessary to help the raw materials combine more quickly. Some raw materials such as water or the primary detergents are pumped and metered directly into the batch tank. These materials are added simply by pressing a button on computerized controls. These controls also regulate the mixing speeds and the heating and cooling rates. Depending on the size and type of shampoo, making a 3,000-gal (11,000-1) batch can take anywhere from one to four hours. QUALITY CONTROL CHECK After all the ingredients are added to the batch, a sample is taken to the Quality Control (QC) lab for testing. Physical characteristics are checked to make sure the batch adheres to the specifications outlined in the formula instructions. The QC group runs tests such as pH determination, viscosity checks, and appearance and odor evaluations. They can also check the amount of detergent that is in the formula and whether there is enough preservative. If the batch is found to be "out of spec," adjustments can be made. For instance, acids or bases can be added to adjust the pH, or salt can be added to modify the viscosity. Colors can also be adjusted by adding more dye. After a batch is approved by QC, it is pumped out of the main batch tank into a holding tank where it can be stored until the filling lines are ready. From the holding tank it gets pumped into the filler, which is made up of a carousel of piston filling heads. FILLING At the start of the filling line, empty bottles are put in a large bin called a hopper. Here, the bottles are physically manipulated until they are correctly oriented and standing upright. They are then moved along a conveyor belt to the filling carousel, which holds the shampoo. The filling carousel is made up of a series of piston filling heads that are calibrated to deliver exactly the correct amount of shampoo into the bottles. As the bottles move through this section of the filling line, they are filled with shampoo. From here the bottles move to the capping machine. Much like the bin that holds the empty bottles, the caps are also put in a hopper and then correctly aligned. As the bottles move by the caps are put on and twisted tight.
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    SHAMPOOINDUSTRY Page8 After the capsare put on, the bottles move to the labeling machines (if necessary). Depending on the type of labels, they can either be stuck on using adhesives or heat pressed. Labels are stuck to the bottles as they pass by. From the labeling area, the bottles move to the boxing area, where they are put into boxes, typically a dozen at a time. These boxes are then stacked onto pallets and hauled away in large trucks to distributors. Production lines like this can move at speeds of about 200 bottles a minute or more. EVALUATION OF SHAMPOOS PERFORMANCE CHARACTERISTICS  Foam and foam stability  Detergency and cleaning action  Effect of water hardness  Surface Tension and wetting  Surfactant content and analysis  Rinsing  Conditioning action  Softness  Luster  Lubricity  Body, texture and set retention  Irritation and toxicity  Dandruff control  Eye irritancy test PRODUCT CHARACTERISTICS  Fragrance  Color  Consistency  Package 1. FOAM AND FOAM STABILITY: •The Ross‐ Miles foam column test is accepted.200ml of surfactant solution is dropped into a glass column containing 50ml of the same solution. The height of the foam generate dis measured immediately, and is considered proportional to the volume. •Barnett and Powers developed a lathero meter to measure the effect of variables such as water hardness, type of soil and quantity of soil on foam speed, volume and stability. •Freydell and Read titrated actual standard oiled heads of hair with additive increments of shampoo until a persistent lather end point appeared. 2. DETERGENCY AND CLEANING ACTION: •Cleansing power is evaluated by the method of Barnet and Powers •5gm sample of soiled human hair is placed at35°c in 200cc of water containing of 1gm of shampoo.
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    SHAMPOOINDUSTRY Page9 •The flask isshaken 50times a minute for 4minutes.Then washed once again with sufficient amount of water, then after filter the hair dried and weighed. •The amount of soil is removed under these condition is calculated. 3. WETTING ACTION: •Canvas disk sinking test: A mount veron cotton duck#6canvas disk1 inch in diameter, is floated on the surface of a solution, and the time required for it to sink is measured accurately. 4. RINSING: •Skilled beauticians are employed to make comparisons on the performance of several shampoos. 5. CONDITIONING ACTION: •Conditioning action is a difficult property to assess. This is because it is basically dependent on subjective appraisal. •No method has been published for measuring conditioning action. •The degree of conditioning given to hair is ultimately judged by shampoo user who is making the evaluation on the basis of past experience and present expectations. 6. EVALUATION OF EYE IRRITANCY: •The test calls for dropping 0.1 ml of liquid shampoo in the conjunctiva sac of one eye of the rabbit , the other eye serving as control. •In the case of the first three animals, the treated eye remains unwashed. Since washing the eye may or may not alleviate symptoms of injury. •The six remaining animals are divided into two equal groups. •In the first of these groups eyes instilled with the substances are washed with 20 ml of lukewar m water two seconds after treatment and in the second group after instillation. •Readings are then made at 24, 48 and 72 hr. and again four and seven days after treatment. •If the lesions have not cleared up in seven days the test material is considered as severe irritant. 7. VISCOSITY: •Viscosity of the liquid shampoo is determined using a Brooke field viscometer •100 mLof the shampoo is taken in a beaker and the spindle is dipped in it for about 5 min and th en the reading is taken.
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    SHAMPOOINDUSTRY Page10 REFERENCES 1.Balsam,S.M.,Gershon,S.D.,Rieger,M.M.,Sagarin,E.,andStrianse,S.J.:COSMETICS– ScienceandTechnology,2ndedition,Vol‐ 2,JohnWileyIndia,NewDelhi,2008 2.Barel,A.O.,Paye,M.,andMaibach,H.I.:HandbookofCosmeticScienceand Technology,3rdEdition,InformaHealthcare,NewYork. 3.Sharma,P.P.:COSMETICS‐ Formulation,ManufacturingandQualityControl,4th Edition,VandanaPublishersPvt.Ltd.,NewDelhi,March1998. 4.Butler,H.:POUCHER’S–Perfumes,Cosmetics&Soaps,10thEdition,Springer, Cockermouth,Cumbria,USA,2000. 5.Salador, A.,and Chisvert,A.:Analysisofcosmeticproducts,Elsevier,NewYork,2006. 6. Ross, J., and Miles, G.D. : An application for comparison of foaming properties of soaps and detergents, Oil and Soap, 1941. 7. Mittal,: A Hand book of Cosmetics 8. Fredell, W.G., and Powers, D .H. : Factors attributing to the performance of shampoos andtoconsumeracceptance,Proc.Sci.Sec.,1955. 9. Raj Kumar, K. J., In vitro evaluation of shampoos. 10. www.cosmeticdatabase.com