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Bangladesh University of Textiles
Project Report
On
Effect of core draft on the properties of core spun yarn
SUPERVISING TEACHER
Mr. Md. Zahidul Islam
Lecturer, Department of Yarn Manufacturing Engineering
Bangladesh University of Textiles
Submitted by
Arif Rahman, ID: 20101001
K. M. Mamunur Rashid, ID: 20101059
Sadikur Rahman Shawpon, ID: 20101060
Ashfaqur Rahman, ID: 20101063
Noman Siddiqui, ID: 20101067
Session: 2012-13
Department of Yarn Manufacturing Engineering
2
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
We are very fortunate that we were well supported and co-operated at all points in our
project work. It is high time we expressed our gratitude to all those who are related to our
work. First of all, we express our heartiest gratitude to the VC of Bangladesh University of
Textiles, Professor Dr. Nitai Chandra Sutradhar. Then we would like to convey our
heartfelt thanks to the Dean of Textile Manufacturing Engineering Faculty, Professor
Masud Ahmed. Needless to say that we are ever indebted to our revered Head of the
Department, Associate Professor Dr. Hosne Ara Begum, Department of Yarn
Manufacturing Engineering for arranging the project work with convenience. We also
express our heartfelt thanks to our supervising teacher, Lecturer, Mr. Md. Zahidul Islam,
Department of Yarn Manufacturing Engineering. We thankfully recall engineer Mr.
Mainul and Mr. Saif of Sinha Rotor Spinning Limited who extended their wholehearted co-
operation regarding data collection.
Above all, we are deeply glad and thankful to all the teachers of our department for extending
a co-operative hand and encouraging the little efforts that we took. We also acknowledge
that we remain utterly responsible for any inadequacy and error that we undoubtedly have
had in this report.
3
ABSTRACT
At first, some core spun yarn samples were collected with necessary data which are needed
to begin the project work with effective analysis. The yarns were also separated according to
their count so that an acceptable result can be established for effective use which will help to
carry out further activities depending on the established form of work. Core spun yarn
specifications, machine specifications and the major factors necessary for calculation were
managed and watched with different variations which affect the core spun yarn construction.
Our efforts were developed in a dependable way so that we can easily visualize the resulting
core spun yarn. Finally the core drafting and its effects in the form of yarn properties have
been studied to gather an idea. It has been noted that there is a strong influence of core
drafting on the yarn properties.
4
CONTENTS
Chapter
Number
Topics Sub-topics Page
number
01 Introduction 05-06
02 Objectives 07-08
03 Literature review 09-17
3.1 Definition 10
3.2 Methods of production of core spun yarn 10
3.2.1 Core spun yarn production by ring spinning 11
3.2.2 Core spun yarn production by rotor spinning 12
3.2.3 Core spun yarn production by friction spinning 12
3.2.4 Core spun yarn production by MJS spinning
system
13
3.3 The process variables that affect the core spun
yarn properties
14
3.3.1 Core sheath ratio 14
3.3.2 Pre- tension to core material 14
3.3.3 Spinning draft 14-15
3.3.4 Number of roving feed 16
3.3.5 Twist 16
3.4 Problems associated with core spinning 16
3.5 End uses 16-17
04 Work plan 18-21
4.1 Material 19-20
4.2 Method and work description 21
05 Experimental
result
22-26
5.1 Fiber properties 23
5.2 Yarn properties 24
5.2.1 Various Properties for different type core spun
yarn count
25
5.2.2 Test results of universal strength tester 26
06 Discussion 27-
6.1 Discussion
6.2 Comparison among different yarn counts with
same filament count
29-33
6.3 Comparison between same yarn counts with
different filament count
34-36
6.4 Inference 37
07 Conclusion 38-39
08 Reference 40
5
CHAPTER: 01
INTRODUCTION
6
INTRODUCTION
Core spun yarn is one of the many types of yarn that are produced around the world. It is
produced with a view to combining the advantageous aspects of two components namely i)
core element and ii) sheath element that form a structured yarn which has first of the
aforementioned components taken as mono or multi filament and the other as a staple fiber
sheath. As stated earlier, the main goal is to combine the good characteristics of two different
fibers in a single yarn. The outer sheath provides the appearance and physical properties of a
yarn produced from staple fibers. On the contrary, the inner core filament gives an improved
strength level and allows the use of lower twist level. The preparation technique of core spun
yarns is simple and can be produced on regular spinning machines with minimum addition of
machine parts to them. With specific end use and required properties in mind, the core cover
element can also be chosen from a variety of fibers. Common core materials include the
continuous filaments of polyester and nylon.
Hence, in a nutshell, core spun yarn can be described as a composite, mixed or blended yarn
consisting of two or more types of filaments at the center which are covered by a natural or
synthetic staple fiber. It can broadly be classified into three classes. I) Filament core spun yarn,
II) Elastomeric core spun yarn and III) Staple core spun yarn.
Due to its extensive usability and better quality provisions, core spun yarn is being produced
increasingly in our country and many factories like Sinha Spinning Limited, Square Spinning
Limited are producing core spun yarn on a regular basis.
7
CHAPTER: 02
OBJECTIVES
8
OBJECTIVES
i. To know about the raw materials of core spun yarn.
ii. To know about different fibers used in core spun yarn.
iii. To know about core draft.
iv. To discuss physical properties of core and sheath.
v. To discuss the effects of core draft on the properties of yarn.
9
CHAPTER: 03
LITERATURE REVIEW
10
3.1) DEFINITION
The process by which staple fibers are twisted around a central core forming filament or
staple spun yarn to produce a covering sheath around it is called Core spinning.
Core spun yarn is a structure of two components named the core and the sheath. Generally
continuous mono or multi filament is used for core formation and staple fiber is employed in
the formation of the outer sheath. The use of core spun yarn in production of fabrics increases
their functional properties like strength, durability, comfort etc.
Fig 01: core- sheath structure
3.2) METHODS OF PRODUCTION OF CORE SPUN YARN
Core spun yarn can be produced successfully by many spinning systems each of which have
features with their own conveniences and problems. For example, the conventional ring
spinning is a viably simple and economical process in this regard. But it has difficulty in respect
to core positioning at the center and possibility of major strip back at the subsequent
processes. The feasible methods of core spun yarn production are discussed below.
1. Core spun yarn production on conventional ring frame
a) Single end roving
b) Double end roving
2. Rotor spinning system
3. Tandem spinning system
4. Bobtex spinning system
5. Friction spinning system
6. Airjet spinning system
7. Composite electrostatic spinning system
8. Core-twin spinning system
11
3.2.1) Core spun yarn production by ring spinning
A conventional ring frame with suitable modifications is used for core spinning. The
attachment consists of metal plate bent to a shape. One end of the device is fitted on the
roving traverse guide bar such that the relative position of the roving and the core filament
may be kept constant all the time. There is a provision to vary the position of the device if
required. The other end of the plate is fitted with a porcelain guide that feeds the core
filament at a precise position behind the front drafting roller. This device is fitted with a pre-
tensioner and is kept in a horizontal plane. Varying the number of tension discs may vary the
input tension of the core filament. The package containing the core filament material is
suspended from a bar such that they could rotate easily, thus avoiding any tendency to stretch
the filament before it is fed to the tensioning device. By adding two extra attachments
(filament creel and tensioner) in general ring frame, filament core yarn can be produced.
Fig 02: Core spun yarn production by ring frame
12
3.2.2) Core spun yarn production by rotor spinning
Nield and Ali have developed a technique in rotor spinning machine to produce core spun
yarns. Twist efficiency and pre- tension of filament are the influencing factors in core spinning.
In order to increase the contact area between yarn arm and doffing tube (for increasing the
twist efficiency), a copper flange was soldered to the inner end of the doffing tube. The
doffing tube was mounted on a ball bearing, rotated by a separate drive opposite to the
rotation of the rotor with a speed ratio of 1:9. The rotating doffing tube inserts a false twist
and pushes twist back to the peel off point. The rotation of the rotor wraps the yarn arm
around the continuous filament core. A minimum pre- tension is necessary to avoid filament
flung out into the rotor collecting surface. The core is not twisted during the process, it is
economical to produce coarse core spun yarn through rotor machine than the ring core spun
yarn.
Fig 03: core spun yarn production by rotor spinning system
3.2.3) Core spun yarn production by friction spinning
In friction spinning system, the fibers are individually collected and twisted to form a yarn. A
wide range of staple length can be processed by this system. The deposition and twist of fibers
on to the yarn tail is to be replaced by a filament core to obtain full coverage of core. Wrap
spinning system is a frictional spinning process; a drafted ribbon of parallel fibers that
constitute the bulk of the spun yarn is wrapped by either surface fibers protruding from the
ribbon or by continuous filaments so as to impart coherence and strength to the resulting
yarn. It is believed that the core is false twisted by the rotation of the friction drums before
being wrapped by the sheath fiber. Strength of the core spun yarn have direct relationship
with the strength of core filaments and the number of sheath fibers that are active in
13
generating radial pressure due to their structural helical configurations. The effectiveness of
wrapping of sheath fibers depends on the physical and mechanical characteristics of fibers,
configuration, length of variations and firmness of the wrap and wrap angle.
3.2.4) Core spun yarn production by MJS spinning system
It was reported that the Airjet spinning system could be used for producing core yarns after
optimizing process parameters. A relatively higher first nozzle pressure is advantageous for
improving sheath- slippage resistance. The use of higher spinning speed and wider condenser
markedly improves the tenacity, breaking extension, initial modulus and sheath slippage
resistance which affects the yarn hairiness, mass irregularity and flexural rigidity. However,
yarn properties deteriorate at high spinning speed especially for finer yarns. The schematic
diagram of MJS spinning system for the production of core spun yarn is shown below.
Fig 04: Core yarn production by friction
spinning
Fig 05: Schematic diagram of MJS spinning system
14
3.3) THE PROCESS VARIABLES THAT AFFECT THE CORE SPUN
YARN PROPERTIES ARE:
 Core sheath ratio
 Pre- tension applied to the core material
 Spinning draft
 Number of roving draft
 Twist
3.3.1) Core sheath ratio
It has been found that decreasing sheath content will increase the strength of the core spun
yarn. Apart from this there is an improvement in the extension and the evenness properties.
In the case of core spun sewing threads, a 2:1 core sheath ratio gives poor coverage and may
raise problems of stripping off the sheath during sewing, whereas, with a 1:1 core sheath
ratio, the striping off problem is reported to minimize.
3.3.2) Pre- tension to core material
The pretension is needed to regulate the geometrical position of the filament. This input
tension varies with the twist factor, size and quality of the filaments used. Balasubramaniam
furnished a method for optimizing the tension of the core filament in the core spinning
process. Colored filament was passed over a tension device of attachment and fed before the
nip of the front roller of ring frame. The pre- tension was gradually raised until the colored
filament is completely covered by the cotton fibers and this value was taken as the optimum
input tension. It was approximately 10% of the breaking load of the core yarn. An introduction
of a compensatory tensioner can be reducing the tension variation. An extension of 1% to the
core filaments while feeding to the ring frame ensures no buckling or curling of sheath fiber.
Core yarns are usually pre- tensioned to an extension of around 5-10% for flat continuous
filament yarns, about 30% for textured yarns and up to 400% for an electrometric core. If
insufficiently tensioned, the filament will either periodically appear at the yarn surface, grin
through or become wrapped around the fiber ribbon as the ribbon being twisted.
3.3.3) Spinning draft
Selection of appropriate draft of elastane filament for specific yarn linear densities are an
important aspect of core-spun yarn manufacturing. The aim of this study was to further
investigate the effects imposed by core draft.
15
Spinning draft can be varied to obtain the required yarn count based on the core to sheath
ratio. The drafts in core-spinning depend on the type, the decitex and the pre-stretch of
spandex. The real, total draft (TD) of the spandex core in a spun yarn includes both the gear
draft (GD, machine draft) and the winding pre-stretch of the spandex yarn on its tube. The
draft of the spandex core in the spun yarn is always higher than the gear draft (GD) applied in
the spinning frame.
The following table shows the optimum draft range for typical core spun yarn count range
recommended by Rieter website according to practical experiences.
Table 01: Draft range recommendation by Rieter
The optimum output (spinning speed) of good core yarn cannot be reached by setting low
number of turns per meter and highest drafts. There is a limit to spindle speed for every draft
depending on the staple applied in the cover, yarn count and its twist factor. There are also
limits concerning the traveler speed. For better result the traveler speed should not exceed
26 m/sec in spinning with spandex with cotton. The choice of the highest draft for the
optimum production should also take into account the end use of the core-spun yarn and its
performance in the subsequent process of knitting or weaving and garment wear.
16
3.3.4) Number of roving feed
The possible ways of feeding the core material at the front roller nip with respect to roving
are:
 Filament at the center of the roving
 Filament at the sides of the roving
 Filament on the top of the roving.
Two roving feeding (filament at the center of the roving) provides better core positioning and
control during spinning influences the structure and properties of core spun yarns.
3.3.5) Twist
Adequate cohesion is obtained in individual yarns at high twist rates and it minimizes the
sheath slippage. In addition to this, the filament pre- twist in opposite direction to the ring
twist reduces the sheath slippage. The extension of the core spun yarn tends to reduce at
higher twist levels.
3.4) PROBLEMS ASSOCIATED WITH CORE SPINNING
One of the major problems of core spinning system in ring frame is the stripping off of sheath.
It is the slippage of core filament against sheath. Thus creating bad covering of core. This
happens when improper twist is applied, the pre-tension is not accurate or roving feed
position is not carefully handled. So to avoid stripping off, higher twist is applied and speed is
controlled. So reduced production is caused.
3.5) END USES
The outstanding quality characteristics of core yarns enabled them to be used in many items
of ladies’ and men’s outer and inner wear.
In addition to the improved wearing properties and comfort, better shape retention,
resistance to creasing and bagginess have caused them to be used extensively.
 Conventional uses: Elastic core yarns have been used for many years primarily in
lingerie and foundation garments, swimwear and hosiery, conveyer belt, sewing
thread, socks, blanket as well as sportswear.
 Burn out yarns: For high quality burn-out yarns, core yarns are processed in the first
instance. The cellulose is “burnt-out” in the surface in a targeted fashion by the
17
finisher during covering with thread. A stylish contrast of transparent and non-opaque
materials results.
 Technical Yarns: The yarns are temperature stable, extremly non-tear and strong
through the use of raw materials such as Preox, Twaron or Kevlar. In addition to their
classical sectors of use technical yarns are increasingly used for Techno fabrics.
 Sewing Thread: With Core yarns we set the best standards for the manufacture of
sewing threads. The covering of the fibre protects the high tenacity Polyester filament
core from the high temperatures which occur during sewing. As a result higher sewing
speeds are achieved than with conventional sewing threads.
18
CHAPTER: 04
WORK PLAN
19
4.1) MATERIAL
Our primary goal is to produce different counts of core spun yarn. For this purpose lycra and
cotton have been taken as raw materials for core filament and outer sheath respectively. The
used cotton had the property parameters as per the specifications below:
Table 02: Fiber parameters for yarn production
St. length UHML Str Elg Mic
1-7/16” Avg 35.10 37.6 6.9 3.72
1-1/8” Avg 29.63 32.6 6.7 3.72
The hanks of used cotton roving are as following:
Table 03: Hanks of cotton roving
Nominal
count
50Ne
(40D)cw
48Ne
(40D)cw
10Ne
(70D)kw
10Ne
(40D)kw
21Ne
(70D)cw
12Ne
(70D)cw
10Ne
(70D)cw
R.H
Ne
1.25 1.25 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7
Core forming filament lycra was used with two fineness variations of 70 denier and 40 denier.
Parameters for lycra are as follows:
Table 04: Lycra specifications
Filament Fineness Tenacity (g/den) Elongation % Strength (g)
Lycra 70Den 1.07 533 75.1
40den 1.27 478 51.1
20
Thus, the two components are combined together to form the desired yarn for further testing
and effect verification. The produced yarn had the following parameters:
Table 05: Yarn parameters
Yarn count (Ne) TPI TM Lycra%
50 (40D) cw 33.00 4.6 9.41
48 (40D) cw 32.00 4.6 9.15
10 (70D) kw 20.00 5.0 3.81
10 (40D) kw 19.0 5.0 3.70
21 (70D) cw 21.50 4.6 6.93
12 (70D) cw 20.00 5.0 4.00
10 (70D) cw 18.0 5.0 3.90
21
4.2) METHOD AND WORK DESCRIPTION
Various types of fibers such as cotton, lycra etc. were collected for the production of core
spun yarn.
The fibers were tested as per their staple lengths. As many as ten samples were used in
each case.
For the purpose of testing the fiber properties, the testing machines ‘Premier ART’ and
‘AFIS PRO’ were used. It is mentionable that the premier ART was used in HVI mode.
Cotton roving was collected from speed frame.
Then, ring spinning process was used to produce core spun yarn. It was based on the
principle that- ‘Filament is passed through the delivery roller exactly at a time when the
roving gets converted to the yarn form right after drafting.
Various machine settings (TPI, total draft, lycra draft, Z wheel etc.) were also altered to
produce various counts of yarn.
A total of seven count variations were produced. The fineness values have been included
in the previous table.
Then, certain properties of the produced yarn were tested. The tested properties
included Um (%), CVm (%), index, Thn/km (%), Thk/km (%), neps/km (%), and hairiness.
Premier tester 7000 was used for this purpose.
Tensile properties were also tested by the UNIVERSAL STRENGTH TESTER.
Then the results from the TESTER were taken and a study on the effects of core draft on
yarn properties was made.
All yarn tests were carried out after conditioning the specimens in a standard atmosphere
(temperature 20 ± 2°C, 65 ± 2% relative humidity) for 24 h.
Finally, the studied results were used to produce a convenient and explanatory written
report.
22
CHAPTER: 05
EXPERIMENTAL RESULTS
23
5.1) FIBER PROPERTIES
At first premier ART was used to get the fiber properties. It was used in HVI mode. The average
values gathered were:
Table 06: Fiber properties as obtained from premier ART tester
St.
length
UHML ML UI Str Elg Mic Amt Rd +b CG MR SFI
1-
7/16”
Avg 35.10 29.36 83.7 37.6 6.9 3.72 1153 70.2 13.6 24-
1
0.84 3.9
1-1/8” Avg 29.63 24.43 82.5 32.6 6.7 3.72 1101 77.3 9.0 21-
4
0.82 8.3
Then, AFIS PRO was employed to gather rest of the specifications which include:
Table 07: Fiber properties as obtained from AFIS PRO tester
St.
lengt
h
Nep
cnt/
g
Nep
(um
)
SCN
Cnt
/g
SCN
(U
M)
L(w
)m
m
L(w
)%c
v
SFC
(w)
%<
12.
7
UQ
L(w
)
mm
L(n)
mm
L(n)
%cv
Fine
MTe
x
IFC
%
Mat
rati
o
1-
7/16”
Avg 123 645 5 141
0
29.
4
33.
1
5.5 36.
0
24.
1
47.
0
148 6.3 0.8
7
1-
1/8”
Avg 170 774 28 151
7
24.
0
37.
6
10.
3
29.
8
19.
1
50.
8
151 6.6 0.8
6
24
5.2) YARN PROPERTIES
The results obtained from premier tester 7000 are:
Tested by: Premier Tester
Table 08: Yarn properties
Yarn count Um% CVm% CVm
1m%
CVm
3m%
Index Thn/km
(-40%)
Thn/km
(-50%)
Thn/km
(+35%)
50Ne(40D)cw 10.03 12.71 3.83 2.87 1.18 49 1 323
48Ne(40D)cw 10.55 13.33 4.01 3.21 1.51 56 1 334
10Ne(70D)kw 10.47 13.32 4.72 3.77 2.76 26 0 631
10Ne(40D)kw 10.50 13.77 4.91 3.99 2.94 28 0 646
21Ne(70D)cw 8.45 11.27 3.42 2.77 1.52 6 0 149
12Ne(70D)cw 1062 13.51 4.76 3.64 2.55 34 0 654
10Ne(70D)cw 10.11 13.01 4.54 3.39 2.50 21 0 627
Table 09: Yarn properties
Yarn count Thn/km
(+50%)
Thn/km
(+70%)
Neps/K
m
(+140%)
Neps/K
m
(+200%)
Neps/K
m
(+280%)
Neps/K
m
(+400%)
Rel.Cnt
%
Hairine
ss
50Ne(40D)c
w
31 7 242 56 16 4 100.0 3.86
25
48Ne(40D)c
w
38 8 261 62 19 7 100 4.21
10Ne(70D)k
w
96 10 299 28 4 1 100.0 7.06
10Ne(40D)k
w
89 13 301 31 7 2 100 7.87
21Ne(70D)c
w
19 7 83 20 7 3 100.0 5.00
12Ne(70D)c
w
97 6 457 55 5 0 100 6.67
10Ne(70D)c
w
91 8 289 23 3 1 100 6.88
5.2.1) Various Properties for different type core spun yarn count:
Table 10: Yarn properties
Nominal
count
Actual
count
R.H
Ne
T.P.I T.M Total
Draft
Lycra
Draft
Lycra % Z
Wheel
50Ne(40D)cw 48.35 1.25 33.00 4.6 45.60 3.85 9.41 20
48Ne(40D)cw 47.13 1.25 32.0 4.6 45.10 3.80 9.15 20
10Ne(70D)kw 9.92 0.7 20.00 5.0 29.30 3.33 3.81 24
10Ne(40D)kw 9.10 0.7 19.0 5.0 29.00 3.4 3.70 24
26
21Ne(70D)cw 20.44 0.7 21.50 4.6 34.60 4.00 6.93 20
12Ne(70D)cw 11.01 0.7 20.0 5.0 30.00 3.50 4.00 22
10Ne(70D)cw 9.20 0.7 18.00 5.0 32.00 3.40 3.90 22
5.2.2) According to universal strength tester
Yarn tensile strength test are done by according to following specification:
Standard-ASTM D2256 (250mm 20 sec)
1. Title : Tensile properties of yarn by the single-strand method.
2. Jaw separation : 250.00 mm
3. Pre-tention : 0 cN
4. Rate of extension : 150mm/min
5. Break detection : 80%
6. Maximum load : 100 N
7. Time to break : 20.0 s
Table 11: Results from universal strength tester
Yarn count Count
Tex
Max.
Force (N)
Tenacity(g/tex) Extension
(%)
Time to
Break (S)
Lycra %
50Ne(40D)cw 11.81 1.78 11.737 6.15 7.3 9.41
48Ne(40D)cw 12.30 1.36 11.2757 5.41 6.6 9.15
10Ne(70D)kw 59.05 6.99 12.0702 7.60 8.7 3.81
10Ne(40D)kw 59.05 6.50 11.2186 6.93 7.8 3.70
21Ne(70D)cw 28.11 3.72 13.4815 7.95 9.5 6.93
12Ne(70D)cw 49.21 7.13 14.7756 7.31 8.4 4.00
10Ne(70D)cw 59.05 7.99 13.7977 7.86 9.8 3.90
27
CHAPTER: 06
DISCUSSION
28
DISCUSSION
The obtained results have been discussed by separating the results on the basis of
i) Different yarn counts produced from same filament denier (counts of 50Ne, 48Ne
from 40D and 21Ne,12Ne, 10Ne from 70D filament) and
ii) Same yarn counts produced from different filament denier (counts of 10Ne from
40D, 70D filaments).
The graphs have been used to compare relationships in the clusters of
i) Total draft, lycra draft and lycra %
ii) Tenacity and lycra draft
iii) Elongation percentage and maximum force with lycra draft
iv) Um% and CVm% for lycra draft and
v) Lycra draft with hairiness.
29
6.1) COMPARISON AMONG DIFFERENT YARN COUNTS WITH SAME
FILAMENT COUNT
Fig 06: Bar diagram for total draft, lycra draft and lycra % against count
Fig 07: Bar diagram for total draft, lycra draft and lycra % against count
The above bar diagrams have been drawn for different yarn counts produced from the same
filament counts (40&70D). It is evident that the lycra draft is very closely varied. But total draft
has been varied enough to produce yarns of desired count.
45.6 45.1
3.85 3.8
9.41 9.15
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
50
50Ne(40D) 48Ne(40D)
Total draft
Lycra draft
Lycra%
34.6
30
32
4 3.5 3.4
6.93
4 3.9
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
21Ne(70D) 12Ne(70D) 10Ne(70D)
Total draft
Lycra draft
Lycra%
30
Fig 08: bar diagram for tenacity and lycra draft against count
Fig 09: bar diagram for tenacity and lycra draft against count
Here, the bar diagrams for various values of tenacity along with lycra draft (fig- 08) clearly
reveals a direct relationship with drafting. As the drafting values increase, there is a higher
value for tenacity. Here in figure 09, 12Ne yarn has the highest tenacity. So it is better than
the others. Again, between two figures 08 & 09, coarser yarns have higher tenacity. Hence,
we can assume that a coarser yarn count gives high tenacity.
11.737
11.2757
3.85 3.8
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
50Ne(40D) 48Ne(40D)
Tenacity (g/tex)
Lycra draft
13.4815
14.7756
13.7977
4
3.5 3.4
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
21Ne(70D) 12Ne(70D) 10Ne(70D)
Tenacity(g/tex)
Lycra draft
31
Fig 10: Bar representation of elongation percentage and maximum force with lycra draft.
Fig 11: Bar representation of elongation percentage and maximum force with lycra draft.
From figure, it is very much similar to the tenacity graphs. It is evident that the higher draft
values are associated with the higher percentage of elongation at break and vice versa.
Similarly, the maximum load experienced is also high thus giving better strength. But an
optimum draft is required for a better performance which is obtained for 12Ne yarn here (fig-
11).
1.78
1.36
6.15
5.41
3.85
3.8
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
50Ne(40D)
48Ne(40D)
Lycra draft
Elongation%
Maximum force(N)
3.72
7.13
7.99
7.95
7.31
7.86
4
3.5
3.4
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
21Ne(70D)
12Ne(70D)
10Ne(70D)
Lycra draft
Elongation%
Maximum force(N)
32
Fig 12: bar representation of Um% and CVm% for lycra draft
Fig 13: bar representation of Um% and CVm% for lycra draft
From figures 12&13, we see that the co-efficient of mass variation reduced with increased draft value.
The unevenness percentage also shows similar tendency. Here we see that the 21Ne yarn has the best
possible value. So in terms of mass variation, it stands out as the best.
12.71
13.33
10.03
10.55
3.85
3.8
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14
50Ne(40D)
48Ne(40D)
Lycra draft
Um%
CVm%
11.27
13.51
13.01
8.45
10.62
10.11
4
3.5
3.4
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16
21Ne(70D)
12Ne(70D)
10Ne(70D)
Lycra draft
Um%
CVm%
33
Fig 14: effect of lycra draft on hairiness
Fig 15: effect of lycra draft on hairiness
Increase of draft caused reduction in hairiness. Coarser yarns have more hairiness than the finer ones.
As per hairiness value 50Ne yarn is better than the others.
3.86
4.21
3.85
3.8
3.5 3.6 3.7 3.8 3.9 4 4.1 4.2 4.3
50Ne(40D)
48Ne(40D)
Lycra draft
Hairiness
5
6.67
6.88
4
3.5
3.4
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
21Ne(70D)
12Ne(70D)
10Ne(70D)
Lycra draft
Hairiness
34
6.2) COMPARISON BETWEEN SAME YARN COUNTS WITH
DIFFERENT FILAMENT COUNT
Fig 16: Bar diagram for total draft, lycra draft and lycra % against denier value
Fig 17: Bar diagram for tenacity with lycra draft.
From figure 17, 70D filament needed lesser draft than 40D one. But its tenacity is better than the
40D filament yarn. So we can say that coarser yarns have better tenacity.
29.3 29
3.33 3.43.81 3.7
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
10Ne(70D) 10Ne(40D)
Total draft
Lycra draft
Lycra%
12.0702
11.2186
3.33 3.4
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
10Ne(70D) 10Ne(40D)
Tenacity
Lycra draft
35
Fig 18: Representation of elongation percentage and maximum force with lycra draft.
Here, the graph shows higher elongation and force at break for 70D yarn. So, less draft for
coarser yarn has high elongation and force absorption.
Fig 19: bar representation of Um% and CVm% for lycra draft
For same yarn count, we can see that there is no significant change in mass variation and
unevenness for changing draft. So this is negligible and we can assume that there was no
effect.
6.99
6.5
7.6
6.93
3.33
3.4
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
10Ne(70D)
10Ne(40D)
Lycra draft
Elongation%
Maximum force
13.32
13.77
10.47
10.5
3.33
3.4
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16
10Ne(70D)
10Ne(40D)
Lycra draft
Um%
CVm%
36
Fig 20: effect of lycra draft on hairiness
Here, we see a small degree of change in hairiness. However, the yarn count being low, the
values are much higher. So coarse yarn has more hairiness.
7.06
7.87
3.33
3.4
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
10Ne(70D)
10Ne(40D)
Lycra draft
Hairiness
37
6.3) INFERENCE
Analyzing the available data, we see that, presence of filament in 50cw has better result in
hairiness, 10kw has good U%, CV% and hairiness. 12 Ne yarn has the good extension%,
tenacity than 21 cw and 10 cw.
From the previous discussions, we realize that the effect of core draft on yarn properties is
prominent. Draft is needed to be balanced and an optimum one is used for relative denier
value. Hairiness, imperfections, neps etc. reduce when higher draft is used. The technical
qualities of yarn are affected by draft as well. Tenacity, elongation at break, maximum load
etc. have been found to be more enduring when draft was less and coarse yarn was produced.
The compatibility of the overall yarn Drafting and the lycra draft used in the core is very
important for obtaining the optimum yarn tenacity and the elongation percentage. Moreover,
the yarn tenacity and elongation percentage cannot be improved by simply increasing the
core draft. There is a draft limit beyond which the trend may be reversed for core of a
particular draft. It was further concluded that the lycra draft has statistically significant effect
on yarn tenacity, elongation and hairiness.
38
CHAPTER: 07
CONCLUSION
39
CONCLUSION
The project work we completed circled around the study of effects induced in a core spun
yarn due to core draft. We tested the samples for comparison of certain properties which
included tenacity, maximum force at break, elongation percentage, hairiness and mass
variation.
We concluded that the core draft has a direct relationship with yarn quality especially
regarding the technical aspects. We found that higher core draft to an optimum level gives
better testing performance which is the main purpose of producing core spun yarn.
Development of core spun yarn has broadened the scope of higher and better involvement
of textile end products to technological uses with increased and efficient performance. It has
eased the possibility of incorporating parametric requirements with aesthetic ones in the
same product for goal oriented end uses. So studying the effects of core draft on core spun
yarn has enabled us to shed some light on how it is obtained.
40
REFERENCE
 Fundamentals of Spun Yarn Technology, Carl A. Lawrence, Ph. D
 www.fiber2fashion.com/industry-article/textile-industry-
articles/production-and-properties-of-core-spun-yarns
 www.rieter.com/en/spun-yarn-systems/parts-
conversions/technology-parts
 http://omicsgroup.org/journals/rheological-modeling-of-the-
dorlastan-core-spun-yarns
 www.autexrj.com/cms/zalaczone_pliki/3.pdf
 www.textileglossary.com/terms/core-spun-yarn

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Effect of core draft on the properties of core spun yarn

  • 1. 1 Bangladesh University of Textiles Project Report On Effect of core draft on the properties of core spun yarn SUPERVISING TEACHER Mr. Md. Zahidul Islam Lecturer, Department of Yarn Manufacturing Engineering Bangladesh University of Textiles Submitted by Arif Rahman, ID: 20101001 K. M. Mamunur Rashid, ID: 20101059 Sadikur Rahman Shawpon, ID: 20101060 Ashfaqur Rahman, ID: 20101063 Noman Siddiqui, ID: 20101067 Session: 2012-13 Department of Yarn Manufacturing Engineering
  • 2. 2 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT We are very fortunate that we were well supported and co-operated at all points in our project work. It is high time we expressed our gratitude to all those who are related to our work. First of all, we express our heartiest gratitude to the VC of Bangladesh University of Textiles, Professor Dr. Nitai Chandra Sutradhar. Then we would like to convey our heartfelt thanks to the Dean of Textile Manufacturing Engineering Faculty, Professor Masud Ahmed. Needless to say that we are ever indebted to our revered Head of the Department, Associate Professor Dr. Hosne Ara Begum, Department of Yarn Manufacturing Engineering for arranging the project work with convenience. We also express our heartfelt thanks to our supervising teacher, Lecturer, Mr. Md. Zahidul Islam, Department of Yarn Manufacturing Engineering. We thankfully recall engineer Mr. Mainul and Mr. Saif of Sinha Rotor Spinning Limited who extended their wholehearted co- operation regarding data collection. Above all, we are deeply glad and thankful to all the teachers of our department for extending a co-operative hand and encouraging the little efforts that we took. We also acknowledge that we remain utterly responsible for any inadequacy and error that we undoubtedly have had in this report.
  • 3. 3 ABSTRACT At first, some core spun yarn samples were collected with necessary data which are needed to begin the project work with effective analysis. The yarns were also separated according to their count so that an acceptable result can be established for effective use which will help to carry out further activities depending on the established form of work. Core spun yarn specifications, machine specifications and the major factors necessary for calculation were managed and watched with different variations which affect the core spun yarn construction. Our efforts were developed in a dependable way so that we can easily visualize the resulting core spun yarn. Finally the core drafting and its effects in the form of yarn properties have been studied to gather an idea. It has been noted that there is a strong influence of core drafting on the yarn properties.
  • 4. 4 CONTENTS Chapter Number Topics Sub-topics Page number 01 Introduction 05-06 02 Objectives 07-08 03 Literature review 09-17 3.1 Definition 10 3.2 Methods of production of core spun yarn 10 3.2.1 Core spun yarn production by ring spinning 11 3.2.2 Core spun yarn production by rotor spinning 12 3.2.3 Core spun yarn production by friction spinning 12 3.2.4 Core spun yarn production by MJS spinning system 13 3.3 The process variables that affect the core spun yarn properties 14 3.3.1 Core sheath ratio 14 3.3.2 Pre- tension to core material 14 3.3.3 Spinning draft 14-15 3.3.4 Number of roving feed 16 3.3.5 Twist 16 3.4 Problems associated with core spinning 16 3.5 End uses 16-17 04 Work plan 18-21 4.1 Material 19-20 4.2 Method and work description 21 05 Experimental result 22-26 5.1 Fiber properties 23 5.2 Yarn properties 24 5.2.1 Various Properties for different type core spun yarn count 25 5.2.2 Test results of universal strength tester 26 06 Discussion 27- 6.1 Discussion 6.2 Comparison among different yarn counts with same filament count 29-33 6.3 Comparison between same yarn counts with different filament count 34-36 6.4 Inference 37 07 Conclusion 38-39 08 Reference 40
  • 6. 6 INTRODUCTION Core spun yarn is one of the many types of yarn that are produced around the world. It is produced with a view to combining the advantageous aspects of two components namely i) core element and ii) sheath element that form a structured yarn which has first of the aforementioned components taken as mono or multi filament and the other as a staple fiber sheath. As stated earlier, the main goal is to combine the good characteristics of two different fibers in a single yarn. The outer sheath provides the appearance and physical properties of a yarn produced from staple fibers. On the contrary, the inner core filament gives an improved strength level and allows the use of lower twist level. The preparation technique of core spun yarns is simple and can be produced on regular spinning machines with minimum addition of machine parts to them. With specific end use and required properties in mind, the core cover element can also be chosen from a variety of fibers. Common core materials include the continuous filaments of polyester and nylon. Hence, in a nutshell, core spun yarn can be described as a composite, mixed or blended yarn consisting of two or more types of filaments at the center which are covered by a natural or synthetic staple fiber. It can broadly be classified into three classes. I) Filament core spun yarn, II) Elastomeric core spun yarn and III) Staple core spun yarn. Due to its extensive usability and better quality provisions, core spun yarn is being produced increasingly in our country and many factories like Sinha Spinning Limited, Square Spinning Limited are producing core spun yarn on a regular basis.
  • 8. 8 OBJECTIVES i. To know about the raw materials of core spun yarn. ii. To know about different fibers used in core spun yarn. iii. To know about core draft. iv. To discuss physical properties of core and sheath. v. To discuss the effects of core draft on the properties of yarn.
  • 10. 10 3.1) DEFINITION The process by which staple fibers are twisted around a central core forming filament or staple spun yarn to produce a covering sheath around it is called Core spinning. Core spun yarn is a structure of two components named the core and the sheath. Generally continuous mono or multi filament is used for core formation and staple fiber is employed in the formation of the outer sheath. The use of core spun yarn in production of fabrics increases their functional properties like strength, durability, comfort etc. Fig 01: core- sheath structure 3.2) METHODS OF PRODUCTION OF CORE SPUN YARN Core spun yarn can be produced successfully by many spinning systems each of which have features with their own conveniences and problems. For example, the conventional ring spinning is a viably simple and economical process in this regard. But it has difficulty in respect to core positioning at the center and possibility of major strip back at the subsequent processes. The feasible methods of core spun yarn production are discussed below. 1. Core spun yarn production on conventional ring frame a) Single end roving b) Double end roving 2. Rotor spinning system 3. Tandem spinning system 4. Bobtex spinning system 5. Friction spinning system 6. Airjet spinning system 7. Composite electrostatic spinning system 8. Core-twin spinning system
  • 11. 11 3.2.1) Core spun yarn production by ring spinning A conventional ring frame with suitable modifications is used for core spinning. The attachment consists of metal plate bent to a shape. One end of the device is fitted on the roving traverse guide bar such that the relative position of the roving and the core filament may be kept constant all the time. There is a provision to vary the position of the device if required. The other end of the plate is fitted with a porcelain guide that feeds the core filament at a precise position behind the front drafting roller. This device is fitted with a pre- tensioner and is kept in a horizontal plane. Varying the number of tension discs may vary the input tension of the core filament. The package containing the core filament material is suspended from a bar such that they could rotate easily, thus avoiding any tendency to stretch the filament before it is fed to the tensioning device. By adding two extra attachments (filament creel and tensioner) in general ring frame, filament core yarn can be produced. Fig 02: Core spun yarn production by ring frame
  • 12. 12 3.2.2) Core spun yarn production by rotor spinning Nield and Ali have developed a technique in rotor spinning machine to produce core spun yarns. Twist efficiency and pre- tension of filament are the influencing factors in core spinning. In order to increase the contact area between yarn arm and doffing tube (for increasing the twist efficiency), a copper flange was soldered to the inner end of the doffing tube. The doffing tube was mounted on a ball bearing, rotated by a separate drive opposite to the rotation of the rotor with a speed ratio of 1:9. The rotating doffing tube inserts a false twist and pushes twist back to the peel off point. The rotation of the rotor wraps the yarn arm around the continuous filament core. A minimum pre- tension is necessary to avoid filament flung out into the rotor collecting surface. The core is not twisted during the process, it is economical to produce coarse core spun yarn through rotor machine than the ring core spun yarn. Fig 03: core spun yarn production by rotor spinning system 3.2.3) Core spun yarn production by friction spinning In friction spinning system, the fibers are individually collected and twisted to form a yarn. A wide range of staple length can be processed by this system. The deposition and twist of fibers on to the yarn tail is to be replaced by a filament core to obtain full coverage of core. Wrap spinning system is a frictional spinning process; a drafted ribbon of parallel fibers that constitute the bulk of the spun yarn is wrapped by either surface fibers protruding from the ribbon or by continuous filaments so as to impart coherence and strength to the resulting yarn. It is believed that the core is false twisted by the rotation of the friction drums before being wrapped by the sheath fiber. Strength of the core spun yarn have direct relationship with the strength of core filaments and the number of sheath fibers that are active in
  • 13. 13 generating radial pressure due to their structural helical configurations. The effectiveness of wrapping of sheath fibers depends on the physical and mechanical characteristics of fibers, configuration, length of variations and firmness of the wrap and wrap angle. 3.2.4) Core spun yarn production by MJS spinning system It was reported that the Airjet spinning system could be used for producing core yarns after optimizing process parameters. A relatively higher first nozzle pressure is advantageous for improving sheath- slippage resistance. The use of higher spinning speed and wider condenser markedly improves the tenacity, breaking extension, initial modulus and sheath slippage resistance which affects the yarn hairiness, mass irregularity and flexural rigidity. However, yarn properties deteriorate at high spinning speed especially for finer yarns. The schematic diagram of MJS spinning system for the production of core spun yarn is shown below. Fig 04: Core yarn production by friction spinning Fig 05: Schematic diagram of MJS spinning system
  • 14. 14 3.3) THE PROCESS VARIABLES THAT AFFECT THE CORE SPUN YARN PROPERTIES ARE:  Core sheath ratio  Pre- tension applied to the core material  Spinning draft  Number of roving draft  Twist 3.3.1) Core sheath ratio It has been found that decreasing sheath content will increase the strength of the core spun yarn. Apart from this there is an improvement in the extension and the evenness properties. In the case of core spun sewing threads, a 2:1 core sheath ratio gives poor coverage and may raise problems of stripping off the sheath during sewing, whereas, with a 1:1 core sheath ratio, the striping off problem is reported to minimize. 3.3.2) Pre- tension to core material The pretension is needed to regulate the geometrical position of the filament. This input tension varies with the twist factor, size and quality of the filaments used. Balasubramaniam furnished a method for optimizing the tension of the core filament in the core spinning process. Colored filament was passed over a tension device of attachment and fed before the nip of the front roller of ring frame. The pre- tension was gradually raised until the colored filament is completely covered by the cotton fibers and this value was taken as the optimum input tension. It was approximately 10% of the breaking load of the core yarn. An introduction of a compensatory tensioner can be reducing the tension variation. An extension of 1% to the core filaments while feeding to the ring frame ensures no buckling or curling of sheath fiber. Core yarns are usually pre- tensioned to an extension of around 5-10% for flat continuous filament yarns, about 30% for textured yarns and up to 400% for an electrometric core. If insufficiently tensioned, the filament will either periodically appear at the yarn surface, grin through or become wrapped around the fiber ribbon as the ribbon being twisted. 3.3.3) Spinning draft Selection of appropriate draft of elastane filament for specific yarn linear densities are an important aspect of core-spun yarn manufacturing. The aim of this study was to further investigate the effects imposed by core draft.
  • 15. 15 Spinning draft can be varied to obtain the required yarn count based on the core to sheath ratio. The drafts in core-spinning depend on the type, the decitex and the pre-stretch of spandex. The real, total draft (TD) of the spandex core in a spun yarn includes both the gear draft (GD, machine draft) and the winding pre-stretch of the spandex yarn on its tube. The draft of the spandex core in the spun yarn is always higher than the gear draft (GD) applied in the spinning frame. The following table shows the optimum draft range for typical core spun yarn count range recommended by Rieter website according to practical experiences. Table 01: Draft range recommendation by Rieter The optimum output (spinning speed) of good core yarn cannot be reached by setting low number of turns per meter and highest drafts. There is a limit to spindle speed for every draft depending on the staple applied in the cover, yarn count and its twist factor. There are also limits concerning the traveler speed. For better result the traveler speed should not exceed 26 m/sec in spinning with spandex with cotton. The choice of the highest draft for the optimum production should also take into account the end use of the core-spun yarn and its performance in the subsequent process of knitting or weaving and garment wear.
  • 16. 16 3.3.4) Number of roving feed The possible ways of feeding the core material at the front roller nip with respect to roving are:  Filament at the center of the roving  Filament at the sides of the roving  Filament on the top of the roving. Two roving feeding (filament at the center of the roving) provides better core positioning and control during spinning influences the structure and properties of core spun yarns. 3.3.5) Twist Adequate cohesion is obtained in individual yarns at high twist rates and it minimizes the sheath slippage. In addition to this, the filament pre- twist in opposite direction to the ring twist reduces the sheath slippage. The extension of the core spun yarn tends to reduce at higher twist levels. 3.4) PROBLEMS ASSOCIATED WITH CORE SPINNING One of the major problems of core spinning system in ring frame is the stripping off of sheath. It is the slippage of core filament against sheath. Thus creating bad covering of core. This happens when improper twist is applied, the pre-tension is not accurate or roving feed position is not carefully handled. So to avoid stripping off, higher twist is applied and speed is controlled. So reduced production is caused. 3.5) END USES The outstanding quality characteristics of core yarns enabled them to be used in many items of ladies’ and men’s outer and inner wear. In addition to the improved wearing properties and comfort, better shape retention, resistance to creasing and bagginess have caused them to be used extensively.  Conventional uses: Elastic core yarns have been used for many years primarily in lingerie and foundation garments, swimwear and hosiery, conveyer belt, sewing thread, socks, blanket as well as sportswear.  Burn out yarns: For high quality burn-out yarns, core yarns are processed in the first instance. The cellulose is “burnt-out” in the surface in a targeted fashion by the
  • 17. 17 finisher during covering with thread. A stylish contrast of transparent and non-opaque materials results.  Technical Yarns: The yarns are temperature stable, extremly non-tear and strong through the use of raw materials such as Preox, Twaron or Kevlar. In addition to their classical sectors of use technical yarns are increasingly used for Techno fabrics.  Sewing Thread: With Core yarns we set the best standards for the manufacture of sewing threads. The covering of the fibre protects the high tenacity Polyester filament core from the high temperatures which occur during sewing. As a result higher sewing speeds are achieved than with conventional sewing threads.
  • 19. 19 4.1) MATERIAL Our primary goal is to produce different counts of core spun yarn. For this purpose lycra and cotton have been taken as raw materials for core filament and outer sheath respectively. The used cotton had the property parameters as per the specifications below: Table 02: Fiber parameters for yarn production St. length UHML Str Elg Mic 1-7/16” Avg 35.10 37.6 6.9 3.72 1-1/8” Avg 29.63 32.6 6.7 3.72 The hanks of used cotton roving are as following: Table 03: Hanks of cotton roving Nominal count 50Ne (40D)cw 48Ne (40D)cw 10Ne (70D)kw 10Ne (40D)kw 21Ne (70D)cw 12Ne (70D)cw 10Ne (70D)cw R.H Ne 1.25 1.25 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 Core forming filament lycra was used with two fineness variations of 70 denier and 40 denier. Parameters for lycra are as follows: Table 04: Lycra specifications Filament Fineness Tenacity (g/den) Elongation % Strength (g) Lycra 70Den 1.07 533 75.1 40den 1.27 478 51.1
  • 20. 20 Thus, the two components are combined together to form the desired yarn for further testing and effect verification. The produced yarn had the following parameters: Table 05: Yarn parameters Yarn count (Ne) TPI TM Lycra% 50 (40D) cw 33.00 4.6 9.41 48 (40D) cw 32.00 4.6 9.15 10 (70D) kw 20.00 5.0 3.81 10 (40D) kw 19.0 5.0 3.70 21 (70D) cw 21.50 4.6 6.93 12 (70D) cw 20.00 5.0 4.00 10 (70D) cw 18.0 5.0 3.90
  • 21. 21 4.2) METHOD AND WORK DESCRIPTION Various types of fibers such as cotton, lycra etc. were collected for the production of core spun yarn. The fibers were tested as per their staple lengths. As many as ten samples were used in each case. For the purpose of testing the fiber properties, the testing machines ‘Premier ART’ and ‘AFIS PRO’ were used. It is mentionable that the premier ART was used in HVI mode. Cotton roving was collected from speed frame. Then, ring spinning process was used to produce core spun yarn. It was based on the principle that- ‘Filament is passed through the delivery roller exactly at a time when the roving gets converted to the yarn form right after drafting. Various machine settings (TPI, total draft, lycra draft, Z wheel etc.) were also altered to produce various counts of yarn. A total of seven count variations were produced. The fineness values have been included in the previous table. Then, certain properties of the produced yarn were tested. The tested properties included Um (%), CVm (%), index, Thn/km (%), Thk/km (%), neps/km (%), and hairiness. Premier tester 7000 was used for this purpose. Tensile properties were also tested by the UNIVERSAL STRENGTH TESTER. Then the results from the TESTER were taken and a study on the effects of core draft on yarn properties was made. All yarn tests were carried out after conditioning the specimens in a standard atmosphere (temperature 20 ± 2°C, 65 ± 2% relative humidity) for 24 h. Finally, the studied results were used to produce a convenient and explanatory written report.
  • 23. 23 5.1) FIBER PROPERTIES At first premier ART was used to get the fiber properties. It was used in HVI mode. The average values gathered were: Table 06: Fiber properties as obtained from premier ART tester St. length UHML ML UI Str Elg Mic Amt Rd +b CG MR SFI 1- 7/16” Avg 35.10 29.36 83.7 37.6 6.9 3.72 1153 70.2 13.6 24- 1 0.84 3.9 1-1/8” Avg 29.63 24.43 82.5 32.6 6.7 3.72 1101 77.3 9.0 21- 4 0.82 8.3 Then, AFIS PRO was employed to gather rest of the specifications which include: Table 07: Fiber properties as obtained from AFIS PRO tester St. lengt h Nep cnt/ g Nep (um ) SCN Cnt /g SCN (U M) L(w )m m L(w )%c v SFC (w) %< 12. 7 UQ L(w ) mm L(n) mm L(n) %cv Fine MTe x IFC % Mat rati o 1- 7/16” Avg 123 645 5 141 0 29. 4 33. 1 5.5 36. 0 24. 1 47. 0 148 6.3 0.8 7 1- 1/8” Avg 170 774 28 151 7 24. 0 37. 6 10. 3 29. 8 19. 1 50. 8 151 6.6 0.8 6
  • 24. 24 5.2) YARN PROPERTIES The results obtained from premier tester 7000 are: Tested by: Premier Tester Table 08: Yarn properties Yarn count Um% CVm% CVm 1m% CVm 3m% Index Thn/km (-40%) Thn/km (-50%) Thn/km (+35%) 50Ne(40D)cw 10.03 12.71 3.83 2.87 1.18 49 1 323 48Ne(40D)cw 10.55 13.33 4.01 3.21 1.51 56 1 334 10Ne(70D)kw 10.47 13.32 4.72 3.77 2.76 26 0 631 10Ne(40D)kw 10.50 13.77 4.91 3.99 2.94 28 0 646 21Ne(70D)cw 8.45 11.27 3.42 2.77 1.52 6 0 149 12Ne(70D)cw 1062 13.51 4.76 3.64 2.55 34 0 654 10Ne(70D)cw 10.11 13.01 4.54 3.39 2.50 21 0 627 Table 09: Yarn properties Yarn count Thn/km (+50%) Thn/km (+70%) Neps/K m (+140%) Neps/K m (+200%) Neps/K m (+280%) Neps/K m (+400%) Rel.Cnt % Hairine ss 50Ne(40D)c w 31 7 242 56 16 4 100.0 3.86
  • 25. 25 48Ne(40D)c w 38 8 261 62 19 7 100 4.21 10Ne(70D)k w 96 10 299 28 4 1 100.0 7.06 10Ne(40D)k w 89 13 301 31 7 2 100 7.87 21Ne(70D)c w 19 7 83 20 7 3 100.0 5.00 12Ne(70D)c w 97 6 457 55 5 0 100 6.67 10Ne(70D)c w 91 8 289 23 3 1 100 6.88 5.2.1) Various Properties for different type core spun yarn count: Table 10: Yarn properties Nominal count Actual count R.H Ne T.P.I T.M Total Draft Lycra Draft Lycra % Z Wheel 50Ne(40D)cw 48.35 1.25 33.00 4.6 45.60 3.85 9.41 20 48Ne(40D)cw 47.13 1.25 32.0 4.6 45.10 3.80 9.15 20 10Ne(70D)kw 9.92 0.7 20.00 5.0 29.30 3.33 3.81 24 10Ne(40D)kw 9.10 0.7 19.0 5.0 29.00 3.4 3.70 24
  • 26. 26 21Ne(70D)cw 20.44 0.7 21.50 4.6 34.60 4.00 6.93 20 12Ne(70D)cw 11.01 0.7 20.0 5.0 30.00 3.50 4.00 22 10Ne(70D)cw 9.20 0.7 18.00 5.0 32.00 3.40 3.90 22 5.2.2) According to universal strength tester Yarn tensile strength test are done by according to following specification: Standard-ASTM D2256 (250mm 20 sec) 1. Title : Tensile properties of yarn by the single-strand method. 2. Jaw separation : 250.00 mm 3. Pre-tention : 0 cN 4. Rate of extension : 150mm/min 5. Break detection : 80% 6. Maximum load : 100 N 7. Time to break : 20.0 s Table 11: Results from universal strength tester Yarn count Count Tex Max. Force (N) Tenacity(g/tex) Extension (%) Time to Break (S) Lycra % 50Ne(40D)cw 11.81 1.78 11.737 6.15 7.3 9.41 48Ne(40D)cw 12.30 1.36 11.2757 5.41 6.6 9.15 10Ne(70D)kw 59.05 6.99 12.0702 7.60 8.7 3.81 10Ne(40D)kw 59.05 6.50 11.2186 6.93 7.8 3.70 21Ne(70D)cw 28.11 3.72 13.4815 7.95 9.5 6.93 12Ne(70D)cw 49.21 7.13 14.7756 7.31 8.4 4.00 10Ne(70D)cw 59.05 7.99 13.7977 7.86 9.8 3.90
  • 28. 28 DISCUSSION The obtained results have been discussed by separating the results on the basis of i) Different yarn counts produced from same filament denier (counts of 50Ne, 48Ne from 40D and 21Ne,12Ne, 10Ne from 70D filament) and ii) Same yarn counts produced from different filament denier (counts of 10Ne from 40D, 70D filaments). The graphs have been used to compare relationships in the clusters of i) Total draft, lycra draft and lycra % ii) Tenacity and lycra draft iii) Elongation percentage and maximum force with lycra draft iv) Um% and CVm% for lycra draft and v) Lycra draft with hairiness.
  • 29. 29 6.1) COMPARISON AMONG DIFFERENT YARN COUNTS WITH SAME FILAMENT COUNT Fig 06: Bar diagram for total draft, lycra draft and lycra % against count Fig 07: Bar diagram for total draft, lycra draft and lycra % against count The above bar diagrams have been drawn for different yarn counts produced from the same filament counts (40&70D). It is evident that the lycra draft is very closely varied. But total draft has been varied enough to produce yarns of desired count. 45.6 45.1 3.85 3.8 9.41 9.15 0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50 50Ne(40D) 48Ne(40D) Total draft Lycra draft Lycra% 34.6 30 32 4 3.5 3.4 6.93 4 3.9 0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 21Ne(70D) 12Ne(70D) 10Ne(70D) Total draft Lycra draft Lycra%
  • 30. 30 Fig 08: bar diagram for tenacity and lycra draft against count Fig 09: bar diagram for tenacity and lycra draft against count Here, the bar diagrams for various values of tenacity along with lycra draft (fig- 08) clearly reveals a direct relationship with drafting. As the drafting values increase, there is a higher value for tenacity. Here in figure 09, 12Ne yarn has the highest tenacity. So it is better than the others. Again, between two figures 08 & 09, coarser yarns have higher tenacity. Hence, we can assume that a coarser yarn count gives high tenacity. 11.737 11.2757 3.85 3.8 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 50Ne(40D) 48Ne(40D) Tenacity (g/tex) Lycra draft 13.4815 14.7756 13.7977 4 3.5 3.4 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 21Ne(70D) 12Ne(70D) 10Ne(70D) Tenacity(g/tex) Lycra draft
  • 31. 31 Fig 10: Bar representation of elongation percentage and maximum force with lycra draft. Fig 11: Bar representation of elongation percentage and maximum force with lycra draft. From figure, it is very much similar to the tenacity graphs. It is evident that the higher draft values are associated with the higher percentage of elongation at break and vice versa. Similarly, the maximum load experienced is also high thus giving better strength. But an optimum draft is required for a better performance which is obtained for 12Ne yarn here (fig- 11). 1.78 1.36 6.15 5.41 3.85 3.8 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 50Ne(40D) 48Ne(40D) Lycra draft Elongation% Maximum force(N) 3.72 7.13 7.99 7.95 7.31 7.86 4 3.5 3.4 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 21Ne(70D) 12Ne(70D) 10Ne(70D) Lycra draft Elongation% Maximum force(N)
  • 32. 32 Fig 12: bar representation of Um% and CVm% for lycra draft Fig 13: bar representation of Um% and CVm% for lycra draft From figures 12&13, we see that the co-efficient of mass variation reduced with increased draft value. The unevenness percentage also shows similar tendency. Here we see that the 21Ne yarn has the best possible value. So in terms of mass variation, it stands out as the best. 12.71 13.33 10.03 10.55 3.85 3.8 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 50Ne(40D) 48Ne(40D) Lycra draft Um% CVm% 11.27 13.51 13.01 8.45 10.62 10.11 4 3.5 3.4 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 21Ne(70D) 12Ne(70D) 10Ne(70D) Lycra draft Um% CVm%
  • 33. 33 Fig 14: effect of lycra draft on hairiness Fig 15: effect of lycra draft on hairiness Increase of draft caused reduction in hairiness. Coarser yarns have more hairiness than the finer ones. As per hairiness value 50Ne yarn is better than the others. 3.86 4.21 3.85 3.8 3.5 3.6 3.7 3.8 3.9 4 4.1 4.2 4.3 50Ne(40D) 48Ne(40D) Lycra draft Hairiness 5 6.67 6.88 4 3.5 3.4 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 21Ne(70D) 12Ne(70D) 10Ne(70D) Lycra draft Hairiness
  • 34. 34 6.2) COMPARISON BETWEEN SAME YARN COUNTS WITH DIFFERENT FILAMENT COUNT Fig 16: Bar diagram for total draft, lycra draft and lycra % against denier value Fig 17: Bar diagram for tenacity with lycra draft. From figure 17, 70D filament needed lesser draft than 40D one. But its tenacity is better than the 40D filament yarn. So we can say that coarser yarns have better tenacity. 29.3 29 3.33 3.43.81 3.7 0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 10Ne(70D) 10Ne(40D) Total draft Lycra draft Lycra% 12.0702 11.2186 3.33 3.4 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 10Ne(70D) 10Ne(40D) Tenacity Lycra draft
  • 35. 35 Fig 18: Representation of elongation percentage and maximum force with lycra draft. Here, the graph shows higher elongation and force at break for 70D yarn. So, less draft for coarser yarn has high elongation and force absorption. Fig 19: bar representation of Um% and CVm% for lycra draft For same yarn count, we can see that there is no significant change in mass variation and unevenness for changing draft. So this is negligible and we can assume that there was no effect. 6.99 6.5 7.6 6.93 3.33 3.4 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 10Ne(70D) 10Ne(40D) Lycra draft Elongation% Maximum force 13.32 13.77 10.47 10.5 3.33 3.4 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 10Ne(70D) 10Ne(40D) Lycra draft Um% CVm%
  • 36. 36 Fig 20: effect of lycra draft on hairiness Here, we see a small degree of change in hairiness. However, the yarn count being low, the values are much higher. So coarse yarn has more hairiness. 7.06 7.87 3.33 3.4 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10Ne(70D) 10Ne(40D) Lycra draft Hairiness
  • 37. 37 6.3) INFERENCE Analyzing the available data, we see that, presence of filament in 50cw has better result in hairiness, 10kw has good U%, CV% and hairiness. 12 Ne yarn has the good extension%, tenacity than 21 cw and 10 cw. From the previous discussions, we realize that the effect of core draft on yarn properties is prominent. Draft is needed to be balanced and an optimum one is used for relative denier value. Hairiness, imperfections, neps etc. reduce when higher draft is used. The technical qualities of yarn are affected by draft as well. Tenacity, elongation at break, maximum load etc. have been found to be more enduring when draft was less and coarse yarn was produced. The compatibility of the overall yarn Drafting and the lycra draft used in the core is very important for obtaining the optimum yarn tenacity and the elongation percentage. Moreover, the yarn tenacity and elongation percentage cannot be improved by simply increasing the core draft. There is a draft limit beyond which the trend may be reversed for core of a particular draft. It was further concluded that the lycra draft has statistically significant effect on yarn tenacity, elongation and hairiness.
  • 39. 39 CONCLUSION The project work we completed circled around the study of effects induced in a core spun yarn due to core draft. We tested the samples for comparison of certain properties which included tenacity, maximum force at break, elongation percentage, hairiness and mass variation. We concluded that the core draft has a direct relationship with yarn quality especially regarding the technical aspects. We found that higher core draft to an optimum level gives better testing performance which is the main purpose of producing core spun yarn. Development of core spun yarn has broadened the scope of higher and better involvement of textile end products to technological uses with increased and efficient performance. It has eased the possibility of incorporating parametric requirements with aesthetic ones in the same product for goal oriented end uses. So studying the effects of core draft on core spun yarn has enabled us to shed some light on how it is obtained.
  • 40. 40 REFERENCE  Fundamentals of Spun Yarn Technology, Carl A. Lawrence, Ph. D  www.fiber2fashion.com/industry-article/textile-industry- articles/production-and-properties-of-core-spun-yarns  www.rieter.com/en/spun-yarn-systems/parts- conversions/technology-parts  http://omicsgroup.org/journals/rheological-modeling-of-the- dorlastan-core-spun-yarns  www.autexrj.com/cms/zalaczone_pliki/3.pdf  www.textileglossary.com/terms/core-spun-yarn