JUNE 2015

100
www.textilevaluechain.com
Dark clouds on
textile horizon
Cotton
Uncertainty
Cost
Escalation
Depressed
Demand
Discriminatory
Excise Duty
Long pending
TUFS benefits
ISSN NO.: 2278-8972 RNI NO.: MAHENG / 2012 / 43707
JUNE - 2015 Volume 3 Issue 6 Pages 44
• Interviews : BIRLA & TYCO
• Overview of Nonwoven Bonding Technologies
• Make in India- Future of Indian Manufacturing
• Show Report : TAI/ TEXPOSURE/ COTTON USA/ BIRLA/ GOTS
• Market Report : Cotton & MMF Fibre

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June 2015 www.textilevaluechain.com

2
June 2015www.textilevaluechain.com
EDITORIAL
Shri V.Y. Tamhane
Editorial Advisor
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The textile industry enjoys pride of place in the Indian economy. With a record earning of US $ 41.4 billion in 2014-2015, the
textile Industry is one among the largest foreign exchange earners for the country. It is also one of the largest employer in
the country engaging over 10 crorepersons directly and indirectly. No wonder Government is giving due emphasis on tech-
nology upgradation and skill development.
However, not all is well with the textile industry. The rate of growth in exports is languishing. Cotton production which
is a gamble on monsoon is always a risky business. If cotton production is short, the industry suffers. If cotton is bountiful,
growers suffer unless additional cotton is shipped to other countries. While doing so, good cotton is exported and the in-
dustry has to contend with the lower quality. The industry does not get adequate cash-credit limits to aggressively purchase
cotton in a situation of surfeit.
The cost of working capital is too high. And the high costs of power and water are perennial issues. The man-made fibre
industry is also not in the pink of health. The discriminating excise duty structure is certainly affecting man-made fibre textile
industry.
Wage levels and other perquisites increase every 3/5 years and there is no escape from it, even if such an increase does
not take place under any statute. It needs to be noted that all employees including workers get clearness allowance linked
to the cost of living index, bonus, whether there is profit or loss, house rent allowance, medical facilities, provident fund,
gratuity, leave with wages etc. This year Minimum wages in Maharashtra have been increased significantly. In the case of
garmenting industry the increase is of the order of 46%. In the Powerloom industry it is 62 %. The increase is beyond the pay-
ing capacity.
Presently the cost of working capital is very high and all eyes are set on RBI for a signal to bring down the interest rate.
The industry is also facing the problem of demand. While export demand is flat, domestic demand is shrinking. The con-
sumer demand will go up only with policy support when the purchasing power of consumer will increase.
The solution tomyriad problems of the industry is to bring down its cost structure through the availability of substantial
adequate funds to stock cotton during the period of abundance, permission for rationalisation of labour strength through
a dialogue with the Labour Unions, who should be convinced of the need to create more jobs instead of protecting a few
ones. Above all TUFS should continue with renewed vigour and adequate allocation of funds for prompt disbursement of
TUFS benefits. The introduction of GST, which has been welcomed by the industry may address the problem of discrimina-
tory excise duty on cotton textiles and man-made fibre textiles. It is expected that in the GST regime, excise duty will be the
same whether the raw material is cotton or man-made fibres.
It is gratifying to note that government may open dialogue with the industry to address all the issues staring in the face
of the industry.
Disheartening Situation
“Is it not true that textiles is the concern of
the entire Indian economy?”

3

4
EDITORIAL TEAM
Editor & Publisher
Ms. Jigna Shah
Editorial Advisor
Shri V.Y. Tamhane
Consulting Editor
Mr. Avinash Mayekar
Graphic Designer
Mrs. Bhavana Pore
Advertising & Sales
Md. Tanweer
INDUSTRY
Mr. Devchand Chheda
City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group)
Mr. Manohar Samuel
President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries
Dr. M. K. Talukdar
VP, Kusumgar Corporates
Mr. Shailendra Pandey
VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon
Mr. Ajay Sharma
GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group)
EDUCATION / RESEARCH
Mr. B.V. Doctor
HOD knitting, SASMIRA
Dr. Ela Dedhia
Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College
Dr. Mangesh D. Teli
Professor, Dean ICT
Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay
Principal Scientist & Head MPD
Dr. Rajan Nachane
Retired Scientist, CIRCOT
CONSULTANT / ASSOCIATION
Mr. Shivram Krishnan
Senior Textile Advisor
Mr. G. Benerjee
Management & Industrial Consultant
Mr. Uttam Jain
Director PDEXCIL; VP of Hindustan Chamber of Commerce
Mr. Shiv Kanodia
Sec General, Bharat Merchant Chamber
Mr. N.D. Mhatre
Dy. Director, ITAMMA
JUNE 2015 ISSUE
Cover Story : Dark Clouds in the textile industry
9 The inadequate earmarking of funds for
TUFS by Mr. Avinash Mayekar
10 What Lies ahead in FY 2015-16 ? by Mr. V.Y.
Tamhane
NEWS
11 Association News: SIMA & TEXPROCIL
12 Corporate News: LENZING & OZBILIM
13 Textile Machinery
14 Textile Machinery: ITMA 2015
15 Letter to Central Government by Bharat
Merchant Chamber
18 Birla wins Frost & Sullivan Award
23 News Nugget
INTERVIEW
18 Mr. Uday Khadilkar, Asst. VP, Marketing,
Grasim, Birla Cellulose
19 Mr. Divyendu Pudhir, President, India &
Middle East, TYCO
ARTICLES
25 Make in India- Future of Indian Manufactur
ing by Mr. Harish Chatterjee, Raymonds
26 Overview of Nonwoven Bonding Technolo
gies by Mr. Aniket & Mr. Ramchandran
29 Ideas that impact India by Mr. Anuj Bhag
wati, ATE
SHOW/ EVENT REPORT
32 TAI – Processing- A way forward
33 TEXPOSURE 2015
34 COTTON USA IN INDIA
35 Vision Sustainability 2020
36 GOTS Conference
REPORT
38 Cotton Report
42 MMF Report
Back Page: Raymond
Back Inside : Ruby Industries
Front Inside : Textile Committee
Page 1: Narain Sysnthetics
Page 3: Bajaj Fab
Page 5 : SGS Innovation
Page 6 : ITMACH
Page 7 : VHM Industries
Page 8 : Rabatex
Page 17 : Shreeram Textiles
Page 20 : Techtexil
Page 21 : Tyco
Page 24 : Sanjay Plastic
CONTENT
ADVERTISER INDEX

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9
Introduction
The Textile Sector plays a crucial role in Indian economy. The
sector has major share in country’s economy in terms of GDP,
export earnings, industrial output & most importantly in employ-
ment generation. Though the sector has presence in country since
ancient times, it has witnessed problems of obsolete technology
resulting in low production & poor quality. Higher machinery cost
is major setback in modernization of technology. To address this
issue, Ministry of Textiles has introducedTechnology Up-gradation
Fund Scheme (TUFS) in year 1999. The scheme has been serving as
“Sanjivani”(Life Giving) for Textile sector since then. It was intro-
duced with an aim to boost an investment into textile sector and
the industry could get full advantage out of it.
The main objective was to upgrade the machineries into most
modern state-of-the-art technology to face global competition.
The scheme helped in fostering the investment across Textile Value
Chain over the period of time. TUFS was initially introduced for 5
years of period with 5 % interest subsidy on machinery which was
subsequently extended upto year 2007. The scheme was continued
in modified form from year 2007 to 2010. The restructured TUFS
was extended from 2011 to 2012 which was further rolled up to
2013. So the scheme has been modified over the period of time to
ensure the balance across the Textile Value Chain. The last modi-
fication has notified in year 2013. Total fundreleased under TUFS
isRs.18211crores till FY 2014-15. Total investment facilitated by TUFS
is Rs.243721Crores.
Though the TUFS subsidy has boosted the overall investment in
textile sector, investors are facing many issues in availing subsidy.
Today’s investor is very smart. He keeps on exploring new oppor-
tunities of investments. Though Textile business has presence in
India& it is passed on from generations to generations, entrepre-
neurs are no longer loyal to the business. If one sees any new busi-
ness opportunity with less investment & better returns, he will not
hesitate to diversify into other business area. Already, many inves-
tors are thinking on options for diversification into other segments.
But, if we see huge global & domestic demand of textile and ap-
parels, there is great scope of investments in the sector. India being
strategic location for Textile sector due to abundant availability of
raw materials&skilled manpower, we still have huge scope for ca-
pacity expansion. TUFS is being catalyzing the investment in Textile
sector, but most of the investors complaining that availing TUFS
subsidy have been a cumbersome job. Delay in TUFS subsidy is one
of the major reasons in maintaining time lines of the project. It also
leads in huge loss of money and promoter needs to look for alter-
native resource at much higher cost. So, let us put light on some
the major problems faced by investors.
Problem faced by the Investors
• Cumbersome Procedure
Textile is very capital intensive sector. Machinery forms major
part of capital cost. Considering this very fact, the Government has
introduced the TUFS scheme. But, average time taken for disburse-
ment of funds from ministry ranges from 24 - 36months whereas
average time for implementation of textile project is 12- 18 months.
Longer period in availing subsidy makes it difficult to complete
project in stipulated time & in turn resulting into huge losses for
investors. The procedure to be followed in getting subsidy is very
simple. It starts with application by investor seeking assistance to
the nodal banks / nodal agencies / coopted PLIswith project details
and Detailed Project Report (DPR). Lending agency will submit the
information online in the prescribed format to the Textile Commis-
sioner (Mumbai), after determination of eligibility and admissible
amount under Restructured TUFS for each case. On receipt of the
information in the prescribed format, the TextilesCommissioner
will issue a Unique ID (UID) number to pre-authorize theloan ap-
plication for submission of subsidy claim by the lending agency. On
receipt of subsidy from the Ministry of Textiles, the lending agen-
cies will transfer the amount of subsidy into beneficiaries’ account
within a period not exceeding three days.Though the procedure is
simple, lack of co-ordination between the nodal agencies & moni-
toring makes it cumbersome for investors.
• Blackout period
The‘blackoutperiod’fortheIndianTextileindustrycorresponds
to the duration between 29 June, 2010 and 27 April, 2011 when no
funding support was available. The modified TUFS was suspended
in June 2010 and the revised TUFS was introduced in April 2011. Lack
of fund support creates insecure atmosphere amongst investors
during “blackout period”. Most of investors put their projects on
hold due to lack of support so it’s necessary to have continual fund
support to the investors to catalyze investments during such low
The Inadequate Earmarking of Funds for
TUFS – Dark Cloud for Textile Industry!
Shri Avinash Mayekar
MD, Suvin Advisor Pvt. Ltd.
COVER STORY

10
periods.
• List of machinery
List of sector-wise machineries covered under TUFS should be
reevaluated. Some of segments like linen spinning are value addi-
tion in conventional spinning & it needs to be given special atten-
tion as it has great demand & potential. For such segments, special
rates of subsidies to be given. It is necessary to identify & offer spe-
cial subsidies to propel the investment to such sectors.
Summary
TUFS is a great initiative started by Ministry of Textile. But inad-
equate earmarking of funds & lack of co-ordination between nodal
agencies is resulting into delay in availing subsidies. Ministry of Tex-
tiles (MoT) should forecast the total investments & required funds
outlay for TUFS well in advance for each year.This can be only done
when applications for UID should reach to the MoT at the planning
stage of the project but not at the implementation.
Currently lending agencies are furnishing subsidy requirement
on quarterly basis. This can be done on-line basis which will not only
avoid accumulation of applications but will make procedure faster.
Faster UID generation will help MoT to forecast fund requirement
well in advance. This will definitely avoid the inadequate earmark-
ing of funds. Once adequate fund support is available each year,
automatically the delays can be shortened by continuous monitor-
ing & coordination further.
In fact consultants like us have smartly identified the need of
the textile industry. With in-depth knowledge base and proven
track record, we are assisting investors for availing TUFS subsidy.
With the strategic approach and continuous monitoring & co-ordi-
nation, we are all set to assist industry players to avail TUFS subsi-
dies timely.
Budget Blues
The central budget for 2015-2016 for the textile industry was a
damp squib. The industry was eagerly awaiting reduction in the ex-
cise duty structure to promote the use of man madefibers in tune
with the international norm of consumption of MMF to the extent
of 70p.c. This is a long standing demand of the industry. This means
that the country has been paying cost in the shape of imports of
MMF woven fabric presently worth USD 325 miilion ( ch. 54 & 55).
The heavy excise duty on man-made fibers depresses MMF fabric
market and hence consumption of man madefibersis stuck at 40
%. India is missing the valuable opportunity of developing products
in areas like leisure wear and sportswear which are the emerging
segments of MMF. The speadier excise duty tangle is resolved, the
faster will be the growth in exports of MMF fabrics and garments.
If a GST is introduced as per present time frame there will be some
saving game.
Another disappointment for the industry in the budget was a
drastic reduction in the allocation of TUFS from Rs. 1864 crore in
2014-15 to Rs.1520 crore in 2015-16 ie a reduction of nearly 10 %. The
operation of TUFS, the industry is apprehensive, will run into seri-
ous payment problem. Besides heavy arrears of TUFS payments for
first 3 quarters in 2015-16 left out cases &black out cases are staring
at the industry. This has severely eroded the cash-flow position of
the industry. As a result, ShriPrakashBhagwati, chairman of TMMA
( Textile Machinery Manufacturers Association) is of view that the
pace of investment in capital assets is severly affected and entre-
preneurs have by and large, adopted the policy of wait and watch.
Depressed Demand
What ails the textile industry at this stage is the low demand for
fabrics. The statistical position of the industry is dominated by yarn.
stocks of cotton yarn started climbing up with the industry from
May 2014. From 131.60 Million kg in May 2014, stocks piled up to
178.62 million kg in Oct 2014. Thereafter, as a sequel to the festival
demand, stocks started moving down and touched 148.59 million
kg in March 2015, the latest month for which such figures are avail-
able. These figures reflect the demand pattern for fabrics.
The slowing down of demand is the cumulative effect of sharp
increase in consumer prices for daily needs, unsatisfactory level of
economic growth, unsavoury situation in the labour market, etc.
Apart from poor domestic demand, export market is also not
quite helpful. In 2014-15 exports of textiles and textile products in-
creases by 8.67% against 7.82% in 2013-14. The target for FY 2015 was
15 %. It seems the world demand is flat. At the same time, it can not
be overlooked that india has so far not been able to take advantage
of China, losing its growth potential.
Cotton engulfed in uncertainty
Cotton is always a gamble on monsoon. But the contradic-
tory report on monsoon forecast is causing some nervousness in
the industry. The industry could not take advantage of slump in cot-
ton prices earlier in the cotton season 2014-2015. Now cotton prices
have started going up. If monsoon fails, or if it does not follow the
normal time schedule, the problems of the industry will multiply.
Other Cost Factors
The minimum basic wages have significantly increased in some
states. The Power cost is abnormally high and there are no signals
of any reduction in power tariff.
There are no definite signs of any reduction in the cost of work-
ing capital.
In this situation, faith of the industry in its own ability is the only
saviour.
What lies ahead in 2015-16 ?
Shri V.Y. Tamhane

11
ASSOCIATION NEWS
SIMA and TSC organizes
PMKVY workshops in all
major textile clusters
National Skill Development Corpora-
tion (NSDC) has announced Pradhan Man-
tri Kaushal Vikas Yojana Scheme (PMKVY)
to facilitate the unemployed youth to get
trained, certified and placed in various
manufacturing sectors and gives finan-
cial assistance ranging from Rs.6000 to
Rs.12000 depending upon the skill level and
also Rs.2500 for the existing employees to
undergo recognition of prior learning train-
ing and get certificates. Textile Sector Skill
Council (TSC) promoted by Confederation
of Indian Textile Industry (CITI) has under-
taken the exercise of implementing the
PMKVY scheme and is in the process of
implementing the pilot phase project. The
Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA) in
association with TSC jointly with 14 major
Associations representing spinning, weav-
ing, powerloom, knitting and processing
sectors is organizing three workshops on
9th June 2015 at Coimbatore, 10th June
2015 at Madurai and 11th June 2015 at Sa-
lem. The purpose of the workshop is to cre-
ate awareness about the scheme and also
facilitate the individual textile manufactur-
ing units to get affiliated with TSC as a train-
ing provider and avail the benefits.
SIMA has stated that the workshop
was attended by around 100 textile units.
He has stated that large number of textile
units would be participating in the Madurai
and Salem workshops. He has added that
Madurai workshop will be inaugurated
by Mr.T.Kannan, Past Chairman, SIMA
and Mr.J.Thulasidharan, Vice-Chairman,
CITI would preside over the programme.
Immediate Past Chairman of SIMA,
Mr.S.Dinakaran would inaugurate the Sa-
lem programme.
Mr.Rajkumar has stated that the Associ-
ation would facilitate and extend necessary
assistance to different Associations and the
textile units on a “no profit no loss basis”
and the textile units need not pay any spe-
cific fee either as a percentage or based on
the workers for availing the service. He has
stated that it is enough if the textile units
pay only Rs.5000/- towards the training
provider affiliation fee and Rs.1000/- per
trainee as the assessment and certification
fee to the TSC. He has added that SIMA has
been approved by TSC to conduct the Train-
ing of Trainers programme which would be
offered at a nominal cost. He has further
said that the SIMA has also been approved
by TSC for validating the documents of in-
dividual textile units and recommending
to TSC for affiliation as training providers
which also would be provided at a very
nominal cost. He has stressed that the As-
sociation would provide further services to
the individual textile units only on actual
cost basis and the textile units need not pay
any fee other than this.
Decline in Cotton textile
exports – a matter of con-
cern- TEXPROCIL
The overall exports of textiles & cloth-
ingtouchedUS$41.4Bnin2014-15asagainst
an export target of US$ 45 bn. Exports of
Cotton textiles (excluding raw cotton )
during 2014-15 was US$ 9452.96 Million as
against exports of US$ 9669.05 in 2013-14
, registering a negative growth of 2.23%.
Exports of cotton textiles ( including raw
cotton) touched US$ 11353.15 as against ex-
ports of US$ 13306 in 2013-14 registering a
steep decline by 14.68% .
Exports in the current fiscal year can do
much better , if adequate & timely support
is given by the Government and the export
target of US$ 13.67 bn fixed for 2015-16 en-
visaging a growth of almost over 15% can
be achieved as India has got the required
competitiveness in textiles , according to
Shri Dalmia.
However Shri Dalmia called for urgent
action on some areas like the inclusion of
cotton textiles under the 3% Interest Rate
Subvention Scheme , release of funds un-
der the TUF Scheme, and recalibrating the
product/country matrix under the newly
introduced Merchandise Exports from In-
dia Scheme ( MEIS) scheme which have a
direct bearing in improving India’s competi-
tiveness in the short to medium term.
Apart from these measures, much
needs to be done towards achieving the
objective of “ease of doing business” and
“Simplification of procedures”, according
to Shri Dalmia. He pointed out instances
that inspite of repeated representations
exporters are yet to receive 2% additional
duty credit scrips under the MLFPS ( Mar-
ket Linked Focus Product Scheme) which
was announced in February 2014. The Gov-
ernment has also curtailed the benefits
under the Incremental Export Incentiviza-
tion Scheme ( 2013-14 ) to a maximum Rs.20
lakhs which was not there in the original
scheme.
The withdrawal of Focus Market
Scheme for Cotton yarns has caused steep
decline in exports to non-conventional mar-
kets like Peru , Morocco etc. The delay in
getting Duty Drawback amounts from JNPT
Customs has further aggravated the situa-
tion for the exporters .
Despite the recognition of the textile
sector’s role in the ‘Make in India’ concept
as well as in jobs creation, there is a lack
of adequate focus and proper planning in
boosting exports , pointed out the Chair-
man ,TEXPROCIL .
However, Shri Dalmia hailed the recent
visit of the Hon’ble Prime Minister to China
as historic and hoped that pursuant to the
joint statement issued by the leaders of the
two countries , the process of reduction
of duties under APTA ( Asia Pacific Trade
Agreement) on exports of fabrics and
other value added products to China will
be expedited as there is immense potential
to export these items to China. Shri Dalmia
also urged the Government to conclude
the FTAs with EU, Australia and Canada to
remove trade barriers and gain market ac-
cess to these leading countries. q

12
CORPORATE NEWS
Lenzing FR® - the fiber of
protection in all layers
The Lenzing FR® fiber, which is based
on cellulose, is on show at Interschutz, the
largest international venue for experts in
fire protection and the emergency services,
as a complete solution for applications in
firefighter protective clothing.
Each layer of Lenzing FR® offers pro-
tection and comfort. The protective fiber,
created on a cellulose basis, protects fire-
fighters from heat stress as a result of heat
accumulation, one of the most frequent
reasons for failures in emergency service
deployment. With the conception of differ-
ent layers of fabric, Lenzing FR® can offer
a tailor-made concept based on the respec-
tive application.. Lenzing FR® can develop
its advantages to perfection in fiber blends
with synthetics in particular. , Due to its
naturalness, the Lenzing FR® fiber guar-
antees the very best moisture absorption
and breathing properties through all of the
layers in which it is used. In particular, gear
for the head and hands, which perspire pro-
fusely, requires better sweat transporta-
tion which is guaranteed with Lenzing FR®.
More performance can save lives
Tests confirm the effectiveness of Len-
zing FR®. Compared to commonly used
protective clothing, protective clothing
with Lenzing FR® shows that second and
third degree burns can be reduced by up to
30%. In particular the cracking of fabrics is
reduced or even prevented. In physiologi-
cal tests, Lenzing FR® was able to demon-
strate that the fiber works most effectively
in layers. The best values are obtained when
the test person is wearing materials which
are both flame-retardant and absorptive.
The breathing properties of Lenzing FR®
lead to a lower body temperature and the
fire fighter has a higher performance pro-
file as a result. The “added” performance
amounts to 16 Watts. In practice this means
running for one minute longer. This one
minute can save lives.
In use around the world
Lenzing FR® is available in a variety of
colors for different emergency forces and
is thus used extensively in international
protective clothing. The fiber is particularly
appreciated in countries with a very hot
climate. Optimum moisture regulation is a
matter of survival there.
Lenzing FR® - the fiber with integrated
flame protection
The flame-retardant fiber, Lenzing FR®,
is known all over the world as a skin-friend-
ly protective fiber. It is used in numerous
working areas as the optimum protection
against sources of heat. Unique heat insula-
tion properties combined with permanent
flame retardancy make Lenzing FR® the
“Heat Protection Fiber“. Due to the natu-
ralness of Lenzing FR®, which is made of
wood, it provides good moisture manage-
ment which reduces the risk of deadly heat
stroke.
Lenzing FR®, a complete solution for
firefighter clothing.
ThreadSol partners with
Ozbilim in Texprocess 2015
After the South-East Asian Markets, Eu-
rope the next target geography for Thread-
Sol, India
ThreadSol Softwares, India strength-
ens its partnership with Özbilim Tekstil
Makinaları, Turkey in Texprocess. First time
exhibitors in Texprocess this year, Thread-
Sol, the 3 years young solution provider,
chose to jointly showcase their technology
with Ozbilim to the European market.
ThreadSol solutions – IntelloCut and In-
telloBuy save up to 10% material cost for the
garment manufacturers, reducing their ma-
terial wastage up to 60%. ThreadSol pres-
ently helps more than 30 large and medium
scale garment manufacturers in South East
Asia region. Major adopters of their path
breaking solutions are the likes of Raymond
Silverspark, Madura Garments, Blackberrys
in India; MAS Holdings, Hirdaramani in Sri
Lanka and Dekko and Unifill in Bangladesh
among many others.
“Further to the major success in the
Indian Peninsular region, we think it’s now
time to save some fabric for the European
manufacturers. Turkey being one of the
top 6 ready-made garment exporters in the
world and Özbilim being a renowned and
respected name in Turkey and around, we
probably would not have found a better
partner for this geography” said Kundan
Sengupta, Sales and Marketing Manager -
Europe, ThreadSol.
Brand Ozbilim has more than 35 years
of experience in serving ready-made gar-
ment manufacturers across the European
Union and the United States with their
highly advanced technology in Cutting,
Spreading, Fabric Testing et al. “Software
solutions have always intrigued me. Intel-
loCut grabbed my attention with a single
demo. The recent success stories speak
volumes of the capabilities of ThreadSol so-
lutions, the industry clearly needs this new
technology.” said Ziya Kilic, General Man-
ager, Ozbilim. “With ThreadSol solutions
with us, we can now provide a 360 degree
cutting room solution to the garment man-
ufacturers here” he added.

13
TEXTILE MACHINERY NEWS
Decline in Short-staple and Draw-Tex-
turing Spindles; Increase in Flat Knitting
Machines
These are the main results of the 37th
annual International Textile Machinery
Shipment Statistics (ITMSS) just released
by the International Textile Manufacturers
Federation (ITMF).
Spinning Machinery
Shipments of new short-staple spin-
dles fell by 15% in 2014 year-on-year and
more than reversed the increase of 10%
in 2013. The level of short staple spindles
declined to 9.8 million spindles, the low-
est level since 2009 and also lower than
the ten-year-average of 10.9 million. Most
of the new short staple sindles (91%) were
shipped to Asia, whereby shipments fell
by nearly 17% year-on-year. Thereby China,
the world’s largest investor of short-staple
spindles, experienced a decline of nearly
29%. Four of the five largest investors for
short-staple spindles originate from Asia.
Including China these are India, Viet Nam
and Indonesia. Shipments to Turkey, the
fourth largest investor, increased by 5% in
2014, the third consequetive increase.
Global shipments of long-staple (wool)
spindles increased by 70% from 80,800 in
2013 to 137, 650 in 2014. That is the strong-
est increase since 2012. The majority of
long-staple spindles (69%) were shipped
to Europe. Thereby, shipments to Turkey
rose to 67,000 which is equivalent to a
share of 49% of global shipments. Within
Europe Belarus and Italy came second and
third with shipments numbering 21,216 and
10,584 spindles. In 2014, shipments to Asia
increased marginally by 0.2% to 29,000 spin-
dles. While North and South America did
not receive any shipments of long-staple
spindles, shipments to Africa amounted to
432.
Shipments of open-end rotors im-
proved moderately in 2014 by 2.6% after
they declined in the previous two years.
The number of shipments reached 454,720,
the highest level since 2011 and well above
the long-term average of 402,669. Nearly
67% of worldwide shipments of open-end
rotors were destined for Asia though the
pace is declining. Shipments to Asia fell by
13% after declines of 13.9% and 11.9% in 2013
and 2012 respectively. Also, in South Amer-
ica shipments declined (-9.3%). In contrast,
shipments to Europe and, especially, North
America saw strong increases of nearly 27%
and 402% respectively.
Texturing Machinery
Global shipments of single heater draw-
texturing spindles (mainly used for polyam-
ide filaments) increased by 76% from 2,600
in 2013 to 4,576 in 2014. With nearly 57% Asia
is the region where most of the single heat-
er draw-texturing spindles were shipped to
followed by Western Europe with 20% and
South Amercia with close to 15%.
In the segment of double heater draw-
texturing spindles (mainly used for poly-
ester filaments) the downward trend con-
tinued and global shipments fell by 12% on
an annual basis to 443,352. However, the
pace of decline moderated somewhat com-
pared to 2013 when shipments fell by nearly
30%. Asia’s share of worldwide shipments
amounted to close to 88%. Thereby, China
remained the largest investor accounting
for 60% of global shipments.
Weaving Machinery
In 2014, worldwide shipments of shut-
tle-less looms fell by 14% to 71,667 units, the
third decline in a row. Thereby, shipments
of water-jet shuttle-less looms dropped by
30% to 24,220, the third fall since 2012. Ship-
ments of air-jet looms also declined though
this was the first fall after four years of
increases. The number of shipped air jet
looms contracted by 19% to 20,176 in 2014.
In contrast, deliveries of rapier/projectile
looms shipments rose by 14% from 23,828
in 2013 to 27,271 in 2014, the highest level
since 2006.
As in previous years the main destina-
tion of shuttle-less looms was Asia amount-
ing to a share of 97% of worldwide deliver-
ies. Thereby, the percentage of the three
subcategories is relatively even. Water-jet
looms measure 36% of shipments to Asia,
35% are rapier/projectile looms and 29% are
air-jet looms. In Europe and North America
73% and 54% of shipments are for rapier/pro-
jectile looms, while the share of water-jet
looms is only 7% and 11% respectively.
Circular & Flat Knitting Machinery
Global shipments of large circular knit-
ting machines fell by 22% from 36,575 in
2013 to 28,502 in 2014, the lowest level
since 2009. Also for this category Asia is
the world’s leading investor. Nearly 88% of
all circular knitting machines are shipped to
Asia and with a share of 60% (close to 17,000
shipments) of worldwide deliveries China is
the single largest investor. India and Turkey
rank second and third with 2,464 (8.6%) and
1,325 units (4.6%) respectively.
2014 was a good year for the segment
of electronic flat knitting machines as global
shipments grew by 31% to 46,100 machines.
This was the first increase since 2011. Not
surprisingly, Asia received the highest share
of shipments. Over 85% of all deliveries
went to Asia with China being the largest
investor with a share of 42% equivalent to
over 19,000 units. Including China, four of
the five largest investors for flat knitting
machines are Asian countries. Second and
third are Bangladesh (11,312 units) and Viet
Nam (1,956). Turkey ranks fourth with 1,879
machines and India fifth with 1,840 units.
Finishing Machinery
The 2014 edition of ITMF’s Internation-
al Textile Machinery Shipments Statistics
included for the nineth time also data on
finishing machinery (wovens and knits con-
tinuous machinery). q
Overall Shipments of New Textile Machinery Slightly
Down in 2014
“Nobody talks of entrepre-
neurship as survival, but that’s
exactly what it is and what
nurtures creative thinking.”
- Anita Roddick

14
TEXTILE MACHINERY NEWS
ITMA 2015 has attracted various indus-
try groups to initiate activities that address
critical sectorial concerns, as well as chal-
lenges faced by the textile, garment and
fashion industry.
The exhibition, billed as the world’s
largest textile and garment manufacturing
technology showcase, will be complement-
ed by a wide range of knowledge sharing
events that will feature discussions on is-
sues that impact the industry’s sustainabil-
ity.
Textile Colourant and Chemical Leaders
Forum
Launched at ITMA 2011, the forum
was a success, drawing lively participation
from colour and chemical professionals,
and fashion and sports brand owners from
around the world. This year, the agenda
will focus on sustainability in dyeing and
finishing processes and participants will be
updated on industry opportunities and best
practices.
Covering a comprehensive range of is-
sues, such as current challenges, solutions
and future trends, the one-day forum on 14
November is divided into three sessions:
• The issue: topics related to chemi-
cal pollution and environmental issues and
how these impact the market place
• The solution: how does the supply
chain respond
• The future: what are the trends and/
or game changers moving forward
Alessandro Gigli, board member of
the Association of Italian Textile Chemists
and Colourists who chairs the forum pro-
gramme committee, said: “Topics to be
covered include the chemical/colourant
suppliers’ response to current environmen-
tal issues, updates on REACH regulation,
new dyeing and printing technologies and
their impact in a more sustainable supply
chain.
“We have received many paper submis-
sions as there is strong interest in sustain-
ability issues impacting the textile and gar-
ment industry. We hope the forum will be a
focal point for meaningful dialogues which
will contribute to improvements in this sec-
tor.”
Besides Mr. Gigli, other members of the
committee are:
• Andrew Filarowski, Society of Dyers
and Colourists
• Enrique Meltzer, Latin American Fed-
eration of Textile Chemists
• Jan Marek, The International Federa-
tion of Associations of Textile Chemists and
Colourists
• Janak Mehta, The Dyestuff Manufac-
turers Association of India
To-date, the confirmed speakers in-
clude
• Alberto Gallina from Benetton Group
srl. who is representing the ZDHC Group
• Prof. Giuseppe Rosace from Depart-
ment of Engineering and Applied Science,
University of Bergamo
• John Mowbray, owner and founder
of UK-based B2B publisher, MCL Global
• Prof. Marc VanParys, President at
UNITEX
Nonwovens Forum
To be held on 16 November, the Non-
wovens Forum @ ITMA is jointly organised
by EDANA and MP Expositions. The forum
will address pertinent issues, challenges
and opportunities in the rapidly evolving
world of nonwovens.
Pierre Conrath, Sustainability & Pub-
lic Affairs Director, EDANA (Belgium) who
will kick-off the forum with an introduc-
tion on the nonwovens industry, said:
“The programme is built around the theme
- ‘Nonwovens: A World of Growth and Op-
portunities’. Presentations on the latest ap-
plications and finishings will benefit ITMA
visitors who are involved in or have the in-
tention to move into nonwovens manufac-
turing. Participants will find it very useful
to be able to visit the ITMA exhibition and
view many of the technologies on show at
the exhibition.”
The first session will focus on applica-
tions and technologies for nonwovens:
• Overview of Nonwoven Production
Technologies and Applications by Laurent
Jallat, Head of Marketing Department, AN-
DRITZ Nonwoven (France)
• From Melt to Nonwoven: Spunbond
Lines for Technical Applications by Martin
Rademacher, Sales Manager & Ingo Mahl-
mann, Senior Manager Product Manage-
ment Nonwoven, Oerlikon Neumag (Ger-
many)
• Nonwoven Production Lines In-
stalled by a General Contractor by Johann
Philipp Dilo, General Manager, Dilo Group
(Germany)
The second session explores added
value ingredients and finishing for nonwo-
vens:
• Spin Finishes and Additives in the
Production of Nonwovens by Stephan Reil,
Marketing Manager Nonwoven, Pulcra
Chemicals (Germany)
• Added Value Through Selected Func-
tionalisation of Nonwovens by Michael
Bildhauer, Head Technical Service Fibre
Auxiliaries & Robert Zyschka, Head Tech-
nical Service Coating/Finishing, CHT R. BE-
ITLICH (Germany)
• Advantages of Ultrasonic in Web
Splicing Applications by Pierre Croutelle,
Sales Manager - Nonwoven/Textile & Plas-
tic Division, Spoolex (France)
• Striking Colors and Performance for
PP SpunMelt Nonwovens by Francis Baud,
Global Fibre Marketing Head, Clariant
(Switzerland) q
Textile Colourant and
Chemical Leaders Forum
and Nonwovens Forum at
ITMA 2015 draw strong in-
dustry support

15
Letter : 1
FLAWS IN EU POLICY OF GRANTING DUTY-FREE BENEFIT TO
PAKISTAN UNDER THE GSP PLUS SCHEME, AS THE INDIAN COM-
MERCE MINISTRY WITHDRAWS ITS OBJECTION AFTER VISIT OF
HINA KHAR.
From 1st Jan’2014 EU has approved GSP Plus status for Pakistan
benefiting Pakistan’s textile business who will now have access to
27 European Countries without having to pay duties. This became
possible only after India withdrew its objection to the unilateral EU
decision which was subsequently given NOC by the WTO. This ben-
efit is till 2017 and will see manifold increase in employment to Pa-
kistani laborers at the cost of Indian wage earners engaged across
entire textile value chain, viz cotton farming, ginning, spinning,
manmade yarn spinning, weaving, processing and garmenting in-
dustry. Bangladesh is already enjoying similar benefit from the EU.
In an unjustified move by the Indian Commerce Ministry, which
has ignored the livelihood of more than 9.5 crore people, has sent
shock wave amongst the entire textile value chain. After agricul-
ture, textile is the second major employment generator to the
masses in India, across various states and in various sectors related
to textiles. The industrial growth of India was on the backbone of
Textiles and for centuries, is the only livelihood for crores of un-
educated families employed in farming of cotton, weaving, hand
processing, embroidery, garmenting, and laborers etc.
As feared, the repercussion to the above policy has started
showing in last 3 months and by 2017 Indian job to around 9.5 crore
people will be effected irreparably.
What is surprising that India being a sufferer of terrorism form
across the border, have allowed such a move at the cost of the
Indian masses, is not only deplorable but anti people act of omis-
sion. If at all, the EU saw the need to help Pakistani textile industry,
it should have done so without affecting the livelihood of Indian
masses. This again is nothing but ‘robbing Peter to feed Paul’. The
socio – economic repercussion in India will be widespread and ir-
reversible.
As leading national level trade, commerce & industrial as-
sociation, representing textile & textile related sectors, Bharat
Merchants’ Chamber has taken strong stand in the interest of
its members & masses engaged in cotton farming, textile work-
ers, daily wage earners, ancient HAST KALA industry of India. We
have urged the Central Govt. to urgently review their decision of
withdrawing the objection. Indian Commerce and Textile ministry
need to take corrective steps before it is too late.
Letter : 2
FLAWS IN POLICY OF DUTY-FREE IMPORTS OF GARMENTS
FROM BANGLAGESH
FROM BHARAT MERCHANT CHAMBER
- Mr. Shiv Kanodia, Honorary General Secretary
On 7th Sept’2011, Indian Prime Minister announced on his Bang-
ladesh visit, ‘duty-free import of 48 textile items from Bangladesh
to India’. The primary justification given was to address the prob-
lem of trade imbalance between the two countries. It was claimed
that India was selling goods worth about $ 3 billion to Bangladesh
against the latter’s export of about $ 400 million to India.
The above policy was announced in spite of widespread protest
and resistance from across the country, including textile industry,
trade unions & the masses employed in garment sector of India. Af-
ter agriculture, textile is the second major employment generator
to the masses in India, across various states and in various sectors
related to textiles. The industrial growth of India was on the back-
bone of Textiles and for centuries, is the only livelihood for crores
of uneducated families employed in farming of cotton, weaving,
hand processing, embroidery, garmenting, laborers etc. Textile has
been India’s core competence area and needs to be strengthened
further, in view of stiff competence from unfair policies from coun-
tries like China. If we fretter away our advantages, our textile indus-
try will die a pre-mature death.
As feared, over a period of 30 months, several cracks in the
‘duty-free import of garments’ policy have surfaced.
1) Several garment units have shifted from India to Bangladesh,
leaving lakhs of workers, tailors and other uneducated employees
jobless in India.
2) Garmenting units in India are unable to compete with dump-
ing of Bangladeshi imports, and are slowly shutting down, render-
ing lakhs of workers, tailors and other uneducated employees job-
less in India.
3) An Indian wage earner of Rs.7500/- per month is made to
compete with the Bangladeshi worker being paid a meager amount
of Rs.2500/- per month. Aren’t we driving him towards poverty?
4) Ready fabric is being dumped from China into Bangladesh
and after converting into garments, dumped in India.
The problem of trade imbalance between the two countries
may not have eased significant, but the trade imbalance between
China and Bangladesh will definitely widen. China will be at advan-
tageous position and can exploit the situation. India, as big brother
to Bangladesh should take lenient & supportive stand, but not at
the cost of crores of Indian workers. The present policy is noth-
ing but ‘robbing Peter to feed Paul’. The Indian Government needs
to take views of concerned stakeholders before announcing such
policies. As neighbours, India should take viable and sustainable
steps to help Bangladesh, but not the cost of its own people.
As leading national level trade, commerce & industrial as-
sociation, representing textile & textile related sectors, Bharat
Merchants’ Chamber has taken strong stand in the interest of its
members & masses engaged in cotton farming, textile workers,
LETTERS TO THE CENTRAL GOVERNMENT

16
daily wage earners, ancient HAST KALA industry of India. We have
urged the Central Govt. to urgently evaluate the anomalies and
take following steps:-
1) To assist Bangladesh, should formulate policy which does
not harm Indian masses and benefit Bangladesh, rather than any
third country.
2) Immediately withdraw the policy of ‘duty-free import of gar-
ments’.
3) Rehabilitate / compensate workers rendered jobless, unpaid
wages, delayed payments due to above policy.
4) Encourage companies who have shifted to Bangladesh to re-
turn back and reinstate workers rendered jobless by them.
5) Restructure debt / give one time financial assistance to com-
panies remaining in India, adversely affected by the above policy.
6) Give financial grant to labors of struggling garment majors
suffering due to above policy.
LETTER: 3
ONLINE FOREX SALE TO REDUCE TRANSACTION COST FOR EX-
PORTERS / TRANSPARENCY IN FOREX DEALINGS
Two decades ago, the Indian stock market matured from ring
trading to online computerized trading, thereby eliminating ‘Gala’
(margin) by the ring brokers. Computer screen based trading
helped investors; FI’s, FII’s, brokers, institutions etc. and the vol-
ume in our stock market grew, phenomenally.
The present system of Treasury Branch of the Banks is akin to
the old ring system of stock market. The Exporter loose on an aver-
age 0.20% to 1% of his inward remittance thereby losing his inter-
national competitive edge to that extent. The margin charged to
importers is similar and the spread for the treasury bench is exor-
bitant. Secondly, it is manual, non- transparent & arbitrary, open to
several anomalies. We urge that a online forex , physical delivery
system should be formulated which should generate contract note
having:-
1. Transaction ID 2. Time of Trade 3. Name of forex Seller &
Buyer 4. Name of forex dealer for both buyer & seller
The contract note for foreign exchange should be issued with
transparency, like reported by NSE, BSE and other exchanges.
When we compare with other countries, Indian foreign trade is at
big disadvantage.
LETTER : 4 TO DGFT
The Textile Trade is the most disorganized sector in India, after
agriculture. Textile industry has been the backbone of Indian Indus-
trial revolution. All big corporate of India has grown from Textiles
and diversified to other fields, still leaving textile disorganized.
The importance of Textile cannot be over emphasized as this is
the highest employment generator in India, from farm (cotton) –
ginning – spinning – processing – garmenting- value additions etc.
The foreign exchange earned from Textiles gives 4 times more eco-
nomic boost than other sector as 100% ingredients are indigenous
and employs 4 time more, as it is the most labour intensive industry.
The new incumbent of Addl DGFT at Nistha Bhavan has brought
in far reaching and welcome changes, with modern vision of 21 st
century. The DGFT under her is now transparent, efficient and ap-
proachable with ISO 9001:2008 certification, which is an unprec-
edented achievement.
Considering her aptitude towards continuous endeavor in im-
proving even from the best, we are happy to put below some ar-
eas which needs her attention. We are confident that she will solve
these and reverse the downward trend of our Export growth :-
1) E-BRC Exports –
Data entry staff of bankers makes mistake in filing data to DGFT
leading to unnecessary litigation
Solution – Exporters be allowed to feed data and bankers to
flag off after verification.
2) E-BRC EPCG –
Most machine manufacturers outside Mumbai do not have
EBRC facility available with their bankers. EPCG license closure /ex-
cise refund etc. are stuck up.
Solution - As above.
3) Flaws in EU policy of granting Duty-free (GSP Plus Scheme)
to Pakistan as Indian commerce Ministry withdraws its objection
after visit of Pak FM Ms. Hina Khar. (Detailed write up attached)
4) Flaws in Policy of Duty-free imports of garments from Bang-
ladesh (Detailed write up attached)
5) Transaction cost reduction – Forex margin (spread) charged
by Treasury bench is non-transparent , exorbitant and arbitrary.
This needs to be on line (Detailed write up attached)
6) Target Plus Scheme –
Shut down, pending incentives, un-cleared and ambiguous situ-
ation.
Solution – Clear old files. Define further status. Any incentive
withdrawal should not be abrupt, but should be applicable from
next period/term.
7) Incremental Export Incentive –
Abrupt discontinuing with no clear policy decision.
Solution – Clarify governments’ position of past and future in-
centive disbursements and give time bound program.
8) Defaulters List –
Some exporters have been classified in defaulters list due to
technical , ambiguous & vague laws (see attached new report of
PM Sri Narendra Modi). They were caught in catch 22 situation and
are trying to come out of this situation. Your ability to take up con-
tentious issues & address concerns of all interested parties and cre-
ate win-win situation for all, encourages us to request that Govt.
should study case wise issue and device mechanism for them to
come back to mainstream exporter of India. Please bear in mind
that most our members are predominant exporters and contribute
to the foreign exchange earners for the country.
9) Awareness Drive –
Several Govt. schemes launched have lost importance due to
lack of awareness. The present seminar is a welcome change and
request this to be continued with a set SOP. Regular circulars
should be sent to associations which in turn circulate amongst our
members.
10) Representation in Consultative committee –
We are representing in various govt. organization like Railways,
Income Tax, and others , we request you to start such consultative
committee and have one representative from our association too.
q

18
The Story so far
With over 50 years of experience in manufacturing world-class
cellulosic fibres, it has been our conscious endeavour to keep
ahead of the business and constantly re-invent ourselves. At Aditya
Birla, we take tremendous pride in research and innovations at our
in-house world-class facilities. Viscose staple fibres (VSF) business
accounts for about 80% of Grasim Industries Ltd. stand alone rev-
enue. Over the last three years the Group’s investments have been
in excess of Rs. 4,300 crores and capacities have scaled to a little
over 900,000 tonnes p.a making it one of the largest manufacturer
in the world with about 20% market share. We have wood pulp plan-
tations in Canada, Sweden and India and installed capacity of more
than 700,000 spindles across Indonesia, Thailand, Philipines and
India. Our entire range of Cellulosic fibres of Aditya Birla Group are
under the brand of Birla Cellulose.
Launch of LIVA
In India, even though consumers actually use garments made
from viscose and like the feel and comfort they are not aware that
they are made from viscose or its blend. The awareness of VSF is
low as compared to cotton, polyester, wool & silk.
Traditionally we are a B2B brand, but with the stupendous
launch of LIVA in March, we are moving forward with the important
connection of business directly with the consumer and the retail
segment. With this new initiative, we are the only company in the
world to operate fully integrated manufacturing facilities extend-
ing from fibre to fashion, all under the umbrella brand called ‘LIVA’.
LIVA is a new age biodegradable cellulosic fabric made of Birla’ s
viscose staple fibres and goes through an accredited value chain to
meet the standards of LIVA. We have been running pilot projects
and working with partners across the value chain for more than 2
years. The result was a perfect fabric in quality that promises fluid-
ity, elegance, superior drape and comfort, in other words, an ulti-
mate fabric for a woman’s wardrobe that gives a beautiful flow to
the garments and enhances ease of movement. LIVA accentuates
the wearer’s curves because of its fluidity and softness unlike cot-
ton which is boxy.
Our objective is to make LIVA known as a unique fabric, both in
India and in international markets. Globally speaking, Italy, Turkey,
Sweden are considered for specialty niche viscose fabrics whereas
China is considered as a mass producer of viscose fabrics. India
is predominantly known for cotton and that’s where we want to
bring a change for the modern fashion conscious Indian consumer.
We have collaborated with major fashion brands in India like Panta-
loons, Van Heusen, Allen Solly, Lifestyle, Global Desi, Chemistry and
F109 for making available LIVA garments.
LAPF: Need of the hour
When a product is launched the value chain needs to be in
place. Once this happens, more volumes can be expected through
the value chain. The need of the hour in our highly fragmented tex-
tile industry was to bring together different players of the value
chain under one platform for successful delivery of LIVA promise.
Till now, VSF products available in the Indian market were of in-
consistent quality because the value chain was not developed ad-
equately in terms of technology and processes. To bridge this gap
and make the process more streamlined and effective, LIVA Ac-
creditation Partner Forum (LAPF) was launched.
LAPF is a forum of value chain partners (spinners, fabricators
& processors) who have the capability to offer good quality and
innovative products made of Birla Cellulose fibre/fibre blends.
Through the forum, Birla Cellulose works with spinners, fabricators
and process houses creating sustainable and high quality new age
yarns and fabrics. Fabrics made by these partners in the value chain
are promoted and marketed to retailers, brands and consumers as
‘LIVA’. This program is advantageous for the partners where they
can own the LIVA fabric and promote the same amongst their cus-
tomers. LIVA is based on four strategic pillars namely:
• Brand & Communication Development – where we under-
stand and deliver consumer needs & experience
• Design & Innovation – Innovation in fibres, yarns & fabrics
and engagement with designer fraternity
• Marketing to brands and retail – to ensure visibility, premi-
umness & consumer experience
• LIVA Accredited Partner Forum - to deliver the LIVA promise
It’s a win-win situation for everyone who will be a part of this
forum.
Eligibility for LAPF Partnership
Basically any entrepreneur can qualify to be part of this accred-
ited forum if they are capable of delivering quality products as per
LIVA standards. For basic eligibility they should have adequate ma-
chinery set-up with good technology level, efficient and updated
systems and processes, precise quality control instruments, quali-
fied staff/ workmen, effective monitoring/ inspection systems and
a thorough professional approach.
Interested value chain partners have to fulfill all the criteria as
per the MOU and are assessed by our expert panel before being
certified as LAPF members. During assessment if the team finds
them lacking in any area, our experts provide 360 degrees support
to help them to improve and overcome the issues, be it operation
skills, raw materials, machinery, etc as per the laid down standards.
LIVA ACCREDITED PARTNER FORUM
The need of the hour
INTERVIEW
Mr. Uday Khadilkar
Asst. Vice President, Marketing, Grasim

19
We also provide support with marketing, vendor management, de-
sign innovation, product perfection and sustainability.
Many leading textile mills those have integrated setups are
already part of LAPF. These mills have good control over their
processes from fibre to finished fabric and provide guarantee for
quality of the products with timely delivery. With time, the brand
plans to add more value chain partners. Currently, we have over
280 LAPF partners: 35 spinners, 150 weavers and 110 processors.
And the journey is on to add more value chain player to the LAPF
fold in the near future.
LAPF Co-branding
With LAPF, our partners enjoy an incremental business perco-
lated down the LIVA value chain. To improve visibility and as a mark
of assured quality & traceability, members can use LIVA & LAPF log-
os on packaging and promotional material. LAPF members can use
these logos only for Birla Cellulose products and only for first qual-
ity products passing LIVA standards. The ‘LIVA accredited’ logo can
be used on fabric rolls, fabric bags, yarn cones and yarn cartons.
The LIVA accredited partner logo can be used in website, station-
ery, visiting cards and other promotional material. LIVA products
command a premium as they are of superior and consistent quality
leading to satisfaction of value chain partners and consumer alike.
LAPF Evaluation & Improvement Program
Technology is changing so fast that we cannot afford to slack.
For any program to be successful, continuous evaluation and im-
provement is a necessity. To this cause, we have commissioned
Bombay Textile Research Association (BTRA) for evaluation &
improvement of LAPF partners. This evaluation service is a value
added service exclusively for LAPF partners and the entire cost is
borne by us.
BTRA is a well-known R & D centre that was founded in 1954
which provides a gamut of services like technical, testing and au-
dit services. Alongwith Birla Cellulose team, BTRA team visits LAPF
partners’ facilities doing thorough shop-floor investigations. They
identify and provide constructive solutions to technical and tech-
no-economic problems regarding quality, machine production,
machine maintenance, quality systems, recording systems etc.
These detailed reports reflect where exactly the members stand,
their strengths and weaknesses which helps them improve their
systems. In the long run, this practice will yield consistent quality
products with satisfied value chain partners and consumers.
Many international brands are shifting their focus towards In-
dia for sourcing Viscose based products due to increase in ease of
manufacturing and consistent quality. This is the right time for a
forum like LAPF to streamline our fragmented industry and make
good of the opportunity. Many international buyers have shown
keen interest in LAPF, as they want to avail the benefits for sourc-
ing quality products. Their interest shows trust and faith in LAPF
which tells us that we are heading in the right direction. q
Sustainability - we often hear about this, but what does it re-
ally mean? It means changing the way we think about how we use
our resources and make small changes that have a big impact on
nature and community. To this cause and with a mission ‘to as-
sist the adoption of Green Manufacturing Practices across Indian
Manufacturing Companies’, Frost & Sullivan held its 2015 Edition of
‘India Sustainability Summit’ on 22nd May, 2015 at Hyatt Regency,
Mumbai.
Based on the assessments conducted at Birla Cellulose’s
Kharach site and subsequently whetted by the Executive Commit-
tee of “Frost & Sullivan’s Green Manufacturing Excellence Awards
2015, WBirla Cellulose was awarded “Challengers Award - Large
Business”. Mr. H.K. Agarwal (COO for Pulp & Fibre business and Mr.
Vinay Bhalerao (Unit Head of Kharach unit) were there on the stage
to be felicitated with this prestigious award for Birla Cellulosic.
Mr. Gowtham S of Frost & Sullivan welcomed the guests and
explained the Assessment Model and Methodology of GMEA 2015.
He explained that the assessment model is realigned within four
major areas and 13 parameters with each having a weightage of
100 points, totaling to 1300 points. The model also took into consid-
eration global sustainability reporting frameworks such as the UN
Global Compact. The assessment for Birla Cellulose that concluded
had its basis in their GMEA Assessment Model that in turn derived
its inputs from the team’s interaction with unit’s personnel, obser-
vations in the plant and documents seen/provided to them. The
Kharach unit had a score of 823 for the entire facility. The param-
eters on which the assessment was done covered business strat-
egy, Governance & Ethics, Waste & Emission, Biodiversity, Energy
& water, Materials, Human Capital Sustainability supply chain, so-
ciety and customers.
GMEA 2015 summit
Mr. Batra presented on ‘Product Life Cycle Management’. He
spoke about the company’s efforts regarding sustainability. He
said, “By 2017, pulp and fibre business of Aditya Birla Group en-
deavours to become the industry leader for sustainable business
practices across its global operations balancing economic growth
with environmental and societal interests”. He further said that
sustainable efforts at Birla Cellulose are tested through Life Cycle
Assessment (LCA). LCA assesses the environmental aspect impact
associated with product, process or service. At Birla Cellulose, it
is conducted from cradle to factory. He proudly said “Birla Spun-
shades is the most sustainable product in the market that uses a
unique dyeing technique. In this dyeing technique, for 100 kg fabric,
water savings are upto 70 lts/kg, effluent load is reduced by 70%,
power is saved upto 3.5-4.0 KW and time is saved by 6-8 hrs per
batch, ultimately reducing processing costs with better production
quality and profits”.
Mr Ajay Sardana presented on ‘Employee Sustainability Initia-
tives’. He said, “Employees are a key driver in driving Aditya Birla’s
sustainability initiatives. Our company is an exciting world of global
opportunities for professional growth with human care. The way
we do business is just as important as the business itself”. He con-
cluded by saying, “For a sustainability program to be credible and
successful, the alignment, engagement and enthusiasm of employ-
ees – both managers and the workforce – are essential”. q
BIRLA CELLULOSE wins the FROST & SUL-
LIVAN AWARD

Your Centre of Innovation
24 – 26 September 2015
Hall 6, B.E.C, Goregaon (E)
International Trade Fair for
Technical Textiles and Nonwovens
Discover a premier trade platform featuring
innovative trends in the technical textile &
nonwoven industry
For space booking please contact:
Bijoy Varghese
+91 22 6144 5960 | bijoy.varghese@india.messefrankfurt.com
www. techtextil-india.co.in
Book
yourbooth!

22
TVC : TYCO is providing solution for Fire and Security across
the world. What are the core beliefs and the vision of the
company?
DP : Tyco is a global organisation which provides Fire, Security
and Life Safety solutions across industries, verticals and countries.
Tyco is committed to Helping Protect People, Property and Busi-
nesses. Tyco is dedicated to advancing fire safety and security by
finding innovative ways to save lives, improve businesses and pro-
tect people where they live and work.
TVC : How is the journey of TYCO till now in India in other
industries apart from Textiles?
DP : Tyco is present in India for more than 2 decades now. We
have a strong presence in Aviation, Industrial & Manufacturing,
Commercial Offices, IT & ITes, Retail, Network-
ing and technology spaces, Pharma and Health-
care segments among others. We have been
associated with many of the country’s prestig-
ious projects in Infrastructure segments. Many
of the leading retailers are our customers and
leading lights of other industries believe in
Tyco’s products and solutions.
TVC : How’s the journey till now in Textile,
Apparel & Retail industry?
DP : Tyco has been a market leader in ad-
dressing retail and fashion industry’s security solutions. 80% of
world’s top 200 retailers rely on our Sensormatic Branded Asset
Protection(EAS) solutions. Tyco offers a full suite of Fire Detection
and Protection solutions apart from Video Management, Access
Control, RFID, Traffic Intelligence and Store Performance solutions.
Our solutions help the industry from the source to finished goods
till their offerings reach the customer
TVC : In India, this industry is more dominated by SME’s,
do they prefer fire and security products as they operate in
low margins and high competition. Is it worth the expense
incurred in expensive Fire & Security Solutions?
DP : Irrespective of the size of the organisation a very common
concern facing the employers are the safety of their employees and
their assets. Concerns like fire, burglary, retail shrinkage, informa-
tion inaccuracy directly impact the health of any growing business.
Tyco has the experience and expertise of offering customised solu-
tions for SME or a large multi chain retailer of any segment.
TVC : For Textile Industry, export is the main earnings;many
global players prefer the products to be source tagged for
their retail customers. Describe more about, Source tag-
ging market in India in particular and sub-
continent in general.
DP: India is a preferred and growing export
nation for many brands since years. Textile ex-
ports are set to touch $ 50-billion mark in the
current fiscal. Many of our EAS customers man-
date the application of Anti-theft & RFID tags
and labels at manufacturing. This process of
tagging at source of manufacturing is broadly
termed “Source tagging”. Today, source tag-
ging is a key initiative of global retailers in order
to save cost and valuable time. By practising
source tagging, the merchandise arrives shelf ready. Though Indian
retail industry is slow in picking up new initiatives, we are confident
of active source tagging implementation in the very near future.
India being a strategic location also has started market coverage in
the subcontinent. Today, we are expanding our business in coun-
tries like Srilanka and Bangladesh actively and would like to grow
INTERVIEW
Mr. Divyendu Pundhir,
President – India & Middle East
Technology to help protect Lives & Assets
- Tyco, Integrated Fire & Security
Solutions Provider for the
Textile Industry.
Tyco is dedicated to ad-
vancing fire safety and se-
curity by finding innovative
ways to save lives, improve
businesses and protect
people where they live and
work.

23
stronger in the days to come.
TVC : How TYCO different from other solution providers in
Indian & Subcontinent markets(competitors)? USP? Prod-
uct Differentiation/ Innovation?
DP : Tyco is a long standing and strong player of global presence
in the security industry. Tyco is the world’s leader in Fire & Security
Industry. In India, Tyco has the distinction of addressing multiple
market verticals with its world class product offerings and solu-
tions. Tyco products and solutions are installed across countries,
industries and locations. Tyco also offers customised service to our
customers across locations. With 10 offices and 350+ locations Pan
India, we are closer to our customers in helping them protect their
lives and assets.
TVC : What is your promotional strategy in the Indian Tex-
tile Market?
DP: Tyco has been very active player and a market leader in Indi-
an domestic retail market. We would like to bring the similar brand
and service presence into the textile market. We have taken good
initiatives by participating in events of textile related industry in the
last two years. Our participation in Tex India show has been a great
experience. We will aggressively pursue our marketing activities by
event participations and media presence in the future days too.
TVC : How does Tyco view the Textile Manufacturing sector
5 years down the line and how would you work with the
manufacturers to make the place safer for their employees?
DP: Indian apparel industry is expected to touch USD 221 billion
by 2020 as per a report by Technopak. This means an exponential
increase in the manufacturing, warehousing and retail space capac-
ities. Tyco has the world class solution offerings and planned skilled
manpower to meet industry requirements. We actively promote
the use of technology to save lives and assets of our customers. q
1] The Rieter Test and Training Centre has been opened at DKTE
society’s Textile and Engineering Institute in Ichalkaranji.
Obliviously, students of this institute will be one step ahead.
2] Hon’ble Chief Minister of Maharashtra inaugurated a Textile
Park in Amravati.
Eight more textile parks would be set up in Maharashtra at Ya-
vatmal, Buldana, Jalgaon, Aurangabad, Jalna, Parbhani, Beed and
Nanded.
This will give a great fillip to the textile industry in Vidarbha and
Marathwada. The setting up of additional Spinning capacities in the
cotton belts is a right step to protect the interests of cotton grow-
ers.
3] A meeting of stake holders in the textile industry is likely to
be held in Delhi in July this year to discuss problems of the textile
industry and recommend viable solutions.
4] Punjab is undertaking a project for mechanisation of cotton
cultivation. The project will cover 400 acres.
5] Government of Tamilnadu has been taken keen interest in
the development of Textile Industry.
The following has been achieved in the last 4 years:
• 10,000 Green houses to handloom weavers at a cost of Rs.
260crore.
• Interest free loan of Rs. 179.34 crore and subsidy of Rs. 112.50
crore to Tiruppur Common effluent Treatment Plants.
• Free Power at a cost of Rs. 757 crore to 2, 35,870 handloom
and powerloom weavers.
• Old-age pension and Family pension for handloom weavers
enhanced to Rs. 1,000
• Contribution amount discontinued by Government of India
to 71,842 weavers is being paid by State Government.
6] Normally, prices of Umbrella go up on the onset of Mon-
soon. This, year seems to be different as prices may remain at last
year’s level.
7] Bed linen manufacturers in the country are faling the heat
because of large scale imports of bed sheets from china. Some
manufacturers may not be able to sustain the blow. q
News Nuggets

25
The World Economy is mending from an extended stagnation.
The world is fast changing due to adjustment of manufacturing
weights across the globe. China and japan have been facing chal-
lenges of increasing costs. The US and Mexico are trying to re-
store their share of global manufacturing. In the meanwhile, India
witnessed the most assertive election verdict in 3 decades and is
hungry for growth. The confidence seems to bring an economic
revival through manufacturing as the key agenda. Keeping this in
mind Prime Minister Mr. Narendra Modi has
launched the Make in India Campaign to envi-
sion India as a global manufacturing leader.
In today’s world market there are two
ways of surviving in the industry. Firstly, a
Research oriented Industry with outsourced
model to obtain a good market share by
generating quality products and distribution
strategies.Otherwise, a manufacturing based
Industry is the other mode of survival.
The Indian Manufacturing primarily has
to surpass the battle of rising costs. Current-
ly, dimension of India’s cost competitiveness
is good only next to Indonesia in lower manu-
facturing costs. When we go beyond the cost
parameters India’s dimensions do not look
bright. India ranks 142(as per BCG survey) in the ease of doing busi-
ness and has seen a downward trend in fields of business, logistics
performance and corruption perceptions.
The Make in India is targeting a 25 percent of National GDP
through Manufacturing and creating a 100 million jobs. India has a
good number of young Intellectuals who can deliver extraordinary
results if we can provide them guidance, resources and right oppor-
tunities. They have been proving their skills in USA and other west-
ern countries. We have to indeed create aspiration and ecosystem
for the youth in contributing towards Make in India.
There are few things which every manufacturing leader should
keep in mind to make this a manufacturing friendly country. Right
infrastructure shall build great supply chain and smooth channel
between manufacturing units and customers. The major input cost
for industries is Power, water, manpower etc which are in an abys-
mal state. Government policies have become
unfavorable. We show high concerns for pol-
lution and environment but industries are
wasting gas and fail to properly utilize it for
generation of power and steam due to higher
costs. Industries find alternatives which create
pollution to the environment and resources
provided like ETP etc are also not maintained
properly.
On the road to global leadership and mak-
ing this campaign successful we have to re-
vive our manufacturing policies by taking few
issues into immediate consideration. Firstly,
labor reforms for cost competitiveness and
production growth. Second, clearance proce-
dures have to be revived while the taxes im-
posedhavetobereconsideredandaccesstocredittermshavetobe
provided. Industries try surpassing several taxes and procedures by
finding shorter paths and leading to bad quality of products in the
market. Third, focus on creating R&D and technology led innova-
tions for gaining global competitiveness which has to be supported
financiallyandtechnologicallybythegovernment. q
MAKE IN INDIA
The Future of Indian Manufacturing
MANUFACTURING FOCUS
Mr. Harish Chatterjee
VP- Manufacturing
In today’s world market
there are two ways of
surviving in the industry.
Firstly, a Research oriented
Industry with outsourced
model to obtain a good
market share by generat-
ing quality products and
distribution strategies.
Otherwise, a manufactur-
ing based Industry is the
other mode of survival.
Textile: Mills demand gas supply for 7 days a week
Expressing dismay, the All Pakistan Textile Mills Association
(Aptma) has opposed Sui Southern Gas Company’s (SSGC) decision
to curtail gas supply to the industry for at least two days a week in
Sindh.
In a statement, Aptma Sindh-Balochistan Region Chairman
Tariq Saud said the regional chapter of the association had been
asking the Ministry of Petroleum to direct SSGC to provide gas sev-
en days a week to the industry.
He pointed out that as winter had passed and domestic gas
consumption for heating purposes in interior Sindh was no longer
required, supplies could be diverted to the industries.
Saud stressed that the textile industry was passing through
very difficult times with exports down almost 16% due to recession-
ary trends globally. “Our input costs have risen and it has become
impossible to remain competitive.”
The industry fears further gas closures will lead to higher costs
and result in large-scale closures and unemployment. Another ma-
jor factor in the rising input cost is the levy of gas infrastructure
development cess (GIDC) on gas consumption.

26
Abstract
Nonwovens producing include four stages, raw material prepa-
ration, web formation, web bonding, and finishing of nonwovens.
The web bonding techniques affects the properties of the end
products. Web bonding mainly classified as, needle punching,
hydro-entangling, thermal bonding, stitch bonding, and chemical
bonding. The paper focuses on different web bonding techniques
and factors affecting properties of end products.
Keywords: Nonwovens, mechanical bonding, thermal bonding,
chemical bonding, wipes, textiles
1. INTRODUCTION
In today world, nonwovens, as highly engineered fabrics can be
seen in every areas of life with their many attractive and versatile
properties. They are attractive because of high capacity produc-
tion availability and cost effectiveness; they are versatile because
with so many different techniques, different performance require-
ments can be met. It can be easily understood, like for every other
product, there is an expectation from nonwovens to have better
quality and standardization. In order to improve the quality and
provide standardization, it is necessary to understand property -
structure relationship. As it is obvious that structure is produced by
using proper materials and the proper processing method, hence
property, material, structure and process dependence can be eas-
ily realized. However, proper material production and selection is
out of subject when dealing with mechanism and performance of
nonwoven processes. Thus, process – property – structure relation-
ship must be well understood in order to meet expectations and
requirements with the nonwoven product [1]. Structural factors,
which are affected on nonwoven fabric properties, can change one
procedure to other. Some of them are stem from bonding proce-
dure and can be listed as following; bonding type, bonding area,
bonding density, bonding strength, bonding point distribution, and
fiber movement availability within the bonding area. Some others
are related with structure of fibers, such as fiber orientation and
distribution, fabric dimensions and dimensional stabilities, inter-
face properties between binder and fiber, fabric porosity, and pore
size distributions. In this study, we will try to examine the working
principles, potential uses, and effectiveness of bonding techniques
to give an idea about property – structure relationship based on
bonding type.
2. BONDING METHODS for NONWOVENS
Needle punching
It is the mechanical bonding method that has the principal
mechanism of interlocking and intermingling of fibers by means of
barbed needles. Besides mostly used web formation methods of
carding and carding with crosslapping, air laid web formation and
spunbond web formation are other possible web formation meth-
ods for needlepunched bonding technology [2]. Following web for-
mation procedure fibers are fed to the needling zone known as nee-
dle loom. In needle loom there are five main components available;
needle board, needles, bed plate, stripper plate, and delivery rolls.
Bonding throughout the nonwoven mat occurs by the penetration
of the needle into the fibrous web layers and in this way, highly loft
structures can be produced. In order to have a precise needling,
needles travel inside the holes which were placed on the needling
plates and they make forward and backward motions. The primary
component of needle punching, needle, has its own essential com-
ponents to provide better bonding and mingling effects. On a nee-
dle, barbs and working blades have vital responsibilities to blend
the web and give the properties to the structure [3]. On the fabric
surface it is possible to realize needling marks, which are stem from
pretty high punching movement. In needle punched nonwovens,
it is possible to mention about two different fiber groups, some
of them are directly exposed to needle impact and others are indi-
rectly affected, even some are unaffected. Thus, these two groups
compensate each other and the undesired effects of needle punch-
ing are minimized. The depth of fiber penetration and needle marks
are related with bonding quality, namely fabric quality and perfor-
mance properties. Related with those mentioned factors, number
of barbs, punch density, needling speed and fiber types are other
important quality parameters for needle punching process. One of
the most remarkable characteristic of the needlepunched nonwo-
vens is their high porosity and high pore distributions [4]. Prenee-
dling is an optional step which improves the quality and provides
better properties to the end product. With pre-needling the web
thickness is reduced, the strength is increased and more uniform
structure can be produced [5].
Needle punched nonwovens are used in many application fields
respect to their desirable properties. Dimensional stability, perme-
ability, drapeability, moldability, acoustic and thermal properties,
tensile properties are few of them. Depend on these properties
needle punched nonwovens are used in automotive, construction,
home furnishing industries, geotextiles, shoe felts, blankets, filters,
insulators and so on and so forth [2].
Hydro-entangling
Following the web forming process, fibrous web was trans-
ferred into the bonding stage on a conveyor belt. Heavily dry laid
systems are used by many manufacturers to get spunlace nonwo-
vens, but wet laid and polymer laid web forming applications are
in use as well. Although most of the companies prefer dry laid web
forming units, their machinery types and process orders may vary
Overview of Nonwovens Bonding
Technologies
TECHNICAL REVIEW PAPER
Aniket Bhute
Scientist & Assistant Director,
D.K.T.E. C.O.E.(Nonwovens),
Ichalkaranji.
Ramchandran Sawant
Assistant Professor,
Anuradha Engineering College,
Chikhli.

27
from one to another. In bonding stage main parameters are impact
force produced by high pressure water jets, structure of the sup-
port members, fiber types, speed of the conveyor belt, prewetting
of the web, and lastly the number of manifolds in use. It is obvious
that these parameters are also affected on the quality of the end
product, hydro entangled fabric.
Unlike other fabric formation methods, it is difficult to under-
stand the mechanism of the hydro entangling in fabric formation
level, because both conveyor belt and water jet have very high ve-
locity values during the process and it is difficult to realize what’s
happening when water jet hits to the fiber web. What’s more, there
are several other factors available in addition to jet pressure and
they are highly effective when energy transfer occurs between fib-
er web and water jet. Nevertheless, the amount of pressure that is
applied on a web is far more important in defining bonding quality.
If water jets are applied with low pressure values only some fiber
entanglement on the web surface can be obtained. Reversely, if
water jets are applied with high pressure then both fiber orienta-
tion directions may change and also fibers may deform and break
[4]. Apart from the water jet effect, in the second plan, supporting
structure type and entangling density are other parameters that
affected on the performance of the final product [8]. Hydroen-
tangled fabrics heavily consumed in wipes industry and medical
nonwoven industry because of their additive free, lint free, soft,
strong, and cost effective characteristics. Also they are used in sev-
eral other industries such as automotive component manufactur-
ing, filtering, packaging, insulation, roofing, geotextiles, diapers,
and hygiene products. It is possible to extend the application fields
of hydroentangled fabrics for following products; interlinings, mat-
tress pad covers, scrub suits, towels, flannel replacement fabrics,
washable domestic fabrics, high temperature protective clothing,
artificial leather and so many others [4]. Spunlace nonwovens
are not perfect structures with their poor stretch recovery, poor
abrasion resistance and poor creep resistance [8]. However, some
properties are accepted relatively good when evaluated with some
other criteria. For instance, when considering cost effectiveness,
aesthetic may not be a concern; when considering the application
in filter industry the strength is not real requirement.
Thermal Bonding
In order to perform thermal bonding of the fibrous web struc-
tures there is a prerequisite that must be met. Fibrous web must in-
clude thermoplastic fibers or at least thermoplastic powders. Most
commonly used thermoplastic fibers are polypropylene, polyester,
nylon, polyethylene and some others. There are basically four types
of thermal bonding available in the market. In through – air bond-
ing method, heated air applied on a fiber web when it moves on a
conveyor band. In this method it is important to adjust the length
of flat bed, temperature of the heated air and throughput speed to
enable sufficient dwell time. This dwell time is pretty important for
some certain basis weight webs to provide required thermal equi-
librium. This method is applied generally to high loft structures to
get homogenous bonding. In impingement method (another name
for through - air bonding), web is transported to the oven and from
the nozzles hot air is impinged to the web surface and bonding for-
mation is occurred. As it may be guessed, in this method the bond-
ing efficiency on the surface can be good while it is very few, even
close to zero, in the depth of the web. The efficiency of the bond-
ing is affected from the following factors; thickness of the fabric,
speed of the belt (amount of the throughput), and temperature of
the heated air which are required to be adjusted properly [8].
In calendar bonding, web is passed between heated rollers
and bonding occurs at that time. If the rollers are smooth then
every cross-over point can be bonded and is called as area bond-
ing. The produced fabric with this method will be strong, stiff, and
relatively thinner. In another version, point bonding is seen and
heat is applied in selected areas on the web due to the engraved
patterns on one of the rollers. Between bonded areas the fibers
are formed bridges, so they are called bridging fibers. Sometimes
the fibers are excessively melted at contact points with rollers and
they flow around the bonding points and in this way, secondary
and less strong bonds might be formed. In infrared bonding tech-
nique, radiative mode of heat transfer is performed. It is not pre-
ferred method as a result of its high cost and insufficient bonding
characteristics. Last form of thermal bonding is ultrasonic bonding.
It is based on a vibrational motion stem from ultrasonic frequency
formed in a device which is called as a horn and by means of en-
ergy conversion, the bonding takes place. When the web comes
into a contact with the horn, it starts to vibrate and the passage for
web narrows down. Then thermal energy is generated depends on
frictional force between web and horn surface and bonding takes
place. Although it is not economical way of bonding, it is suitable
method to join laminates and produce quilt type products [8].
The explicit characteristics of thermal bonding are low main-
tenance cost, low raw material and energy costs, product versa-
tility, smaller space requirements, better quality characteristics,
increased line production and reduced cleaning time of the system
[9,10].
In numerous areas, thermal bonded nonwovens can be seen.
The most important ones are, hygiene disposable products, dura-
ble building and construction materials, air and water filtration me-
dia, horticultural products, clothing, footwear, roofing felts, carri-
ers, tea bag applications, surgical gowns and drapes and so on and
so forth [4].
Stitch bonding
It is formed by stitching of the fiber bundles with fibers or
yarns. Fabric generally may have clear stitching pattern on one side
or both sides. There are three main types of stitch bonded fabrics
available in the market; fabric with one side stitches, fabric with
one side stitches and one side projection of pile of pleating fibers,
and fabric with two side stitches. Generally in stitchbonded fab-
rics, yarn stitches aligned within the fabric plane. The performance
of the stitchbonded nonwovens are dependent on the web den-
sity and structure, stitching yarn structure, stitch density, machine
gauge, stitching yarn tension and stitch length. The number and
size of stitch holes are determined by the previously given factors.
The tensile strength in MD direction and extensibility in CD direc-
tion can be adjusted by the stitch construction. The needle motion
is very similar to warp knitting technology since it is adapted from
warp knitting, With this technology it is possible to change fabric
physical properties such as flexibility, and strength by a proper
stitch yarn selection. In order to produce flexible fabrics, Lycra is
used as a stitch yarn, and in order to produce strong fabrics, Kev-
lar is preferred. Although stitchbonded fabrics are used to produce
vacuum bags, geotextiles, filters, and interlining, the biggest mar-
ket is shaped by home furnishing industry. It is anticipated that
stitchbonded fabrics may invade the woven market in near future [8]

28
Chemical Bonding
It is a versatile technology and fabric formation is materialized
by the application of resin or latex to the structure. It is used in
several areas such as industrial and food service wipes, dryer sof-
tener substrate, wet wipes and baby wipes, filtration media, and
garment interlinings. The characteristics of the latex used for bond-
ing nonwovens are very important because of their effects on per-
formance of the nonwovens. Glass transitional temperature must
be lower to pioneer easy processing. Also it must have proper
backbone composition, functional groups, reactivity, molecular
weight, and surfactant type. Otherwise durability, tensile strength,
softness, hardness, elasticity, and many other properties might be
badly affected because of the wrong latex selection.
There are four types of chemical bonding methods available
in use. Print bonding is so similar to printing of the woven fabrics.
Gravure roll printing and screen printing are the two common print
bonding methods, where, gravure roll printing is used generally for
the bonding of lightweight nonwovens. Spray bonding is another
chemical bonding method that sprays latex on a web when moving
on the conveyor belt. It is suitable for the bulky, high loft applica-
tions. Saturation as a third method comprises direct dipping of a
fabric in a latex tank and performing drying in a dryer. This method
has handicap that may change or destroy the uniformity of a fab-
ric. Last method in chemical bonding which is called as foam bond-
ing can be used for all types of nonwovens. It provides resiliency
and softer hand to the fabric. In order to dry the fabrics, hot cans,
infra red technology, impingement, microwave, radio frequency
and some others are used [8]. To provide a high liquid absorption
capacity on wipes, to resist dry cleaning and washing of interlin-
ings, to maintain barrier properties on some type of hygiene and
medical products, binders are applied to the fabrics. To have better
abrasion resistance and good handling, the outer part of the shoes
are made from chemically bonded nonwovens. Also in automo-
tive industry, upholstery and bedding applications, insulation ap-
plications, prefilters and roofing membrane applications, chemical
bonding methods are used [4].
3. CONCLUSIONS
In this study basically three main bonding techniques for non-
wovens, mechanical bonding, thermal bonding, and chemical
bonding were reviewed. It was seen that among them, mechani-
cal bonding was divided into three main subgroups; hydroentan-
gling, needlepunching, and stitchbonding. While other techniques
also differ from one to another, their differences were limited with
only their application methods such as calendar bonding - through
air bonding, and print bonding – spray bonding. It is clearly under-
stood from the descriptions in the text that contribution of each
bonding methods to the final nonwoven products may differ. The
functionality and the performance characteristics of the products
such as strength, durability, drapeability, application field, barrier
properties, and some others can be classified among these differ-
ences. Thus, the selection of proper bonding method and material
is pretty important in defining final properties and quality of the
nonwoven based products. Moreover, since nonwoven mats are
produced with very high production rates, the process variables
and parameters should be adjusted very carefully and sensibly.
Therefore, in order to prevent high amount of loss in the produc-
tion stage, well-trained labors must be employed for highly engi-
neered nonwoven fabric production.
4. REFERENCES
1. Pourdeyhimi, B., Kim, H., S., The Role of Structure in Mechan-
ical Properties of Nonwoven Fabrics, Textile Asia, Vol: 32, 2001
2. The Needlepunch Primer, INDA, 1995
3. Krcma, R., Nonwoven Textiles, Textile Trade Press, Manches-
ter, 1967
4. Russell, S., J., Handbook of Nonwovens, Woodhead Publish-
ing Ltd., 2007
5. Mrština, V., Fejgl, F., Needlepunching Textile Technology, El-
sevier, NY, 1990
6. www.edana.org, Retrieved on 06.19.2011
7. http://www.engr.utk.edu/mse/Textiles/Spunlace.htm, Re-
trieved on 06.18.2010
8. Batra, S., K., Pourdeyhimi, B., Shiffer, D., Fiberweb and Non-
woven Production Class Notes, 2004
9. Turbak, A., F., Nonwovens: Theory, Process, Performance,
and Testing, Tappi Press, 1993
10. Chand, S., Bhat, G., S., Spruiell, J., E., Malkan, S., Structure
and Properties of Polypropylene Fibers During Thermal Bonding,
Thermochimica Acta, 2001
11. Barnard, W., Spunlace Items for Healthcare, INDEX 87. q
Textile exhibition: Designs inspired from
kufic script on display
LAHORE:
The letters and other patterns in the designs are inspired from
the kufic, one of the earliest scripts in which the Quran was written,
says Iram Zia Raja, the National College of Arts Textile Department
head.
Raja says the patterns are made using gold laces and threads.
“Kufic script has always been a source of inspiration for me. The
lines in this script are straight and simple, she adds.
She says the colour palette she has chosen for the fabric is
more modern. “I have used orange and red more than any other
colours,” she adds.
She says her work represents a balance between the old and
the new. “It offers a contemporary take on tradition,” she adds.
Raja says in most of her work she has focused on exploring the rela-
tionship between tradition and contemporary trends in the society.
“I have read and experienced a vast variety of things in my ca-
reer. All those influence my work,” She says.
The displayed work was well received by the visitors on Thurs-
day. Sajida Omar, a visitor, says she particularly liked the use of gold
laces and threads in the designs.
Tyco International Declares Quarterly Dividend
Tyco International plc (NYSE: TYC) announced today that its
Board of Directors has declared a quarterly dividend of $0.205 per
share for the fourth quarter of fiscal 2015, payable on August 19,
2015, to shareholders of record at the close of NYSE trading on July
24, 2015.

29
TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY
Ideas That Impact India
For 75 years, A.T.E. has been working on achieving social goals
through business. And over these 75 years, A.T.E. has grown into a
successful, multidimensional engineering group.
A.T.E. was founded as a part of India’s freedom movement. The
idea – to sell high quality German textile machinery in India to chal-
lenge the prevailing British monopoly in the field. This endeavour
helped in the modernisation and growth of the Indian textile indus-
try, which now holds a strong position in the world. A.T.E. today is
recognised as a leader in textile engineering in India, offering end
to end solutions across the textile value chain.
A.T.E. also diversified into the fields of flow technology and
print and packaging equipment in the 1970s,
thus building-up expertise in diverse fields.
In the 2000s, a new generation of manage-
ment took over the reins at A.T.E. The strate-
gies going forward was to build on the busi-
nesses A.T.E had been in, but also go further
in achieving social objectives. Well before
“green” became a buzzword, A.T.E. decided
to build up environmental businesses. Moreo-
ver, A.T.E. thought it right to “invent in India”,
and set about creating original and sustain-
able products and solutions. And so, in 2006,
A.T.E. started developing products based on
Machine-to-Machine (M2M) technology. Since
then, A.T.E. has also developed technologies
and deployed products in wastewater treat-
ment, eco-friendly cooling solutions, and ener-
gy efficiency solutions. So, A.T.E. encompasses
three essential elements of life: Air, waTer, and
Energy.
“I have always been passionate about the
environment and wanted to create a positive
environmental impact, particularly as I am
deeply concerned that India will be badly hit by
climate change. I also wanted to promote a culture of thinking for
oneself and crafting original solutions. It’s A.T.E. way to work on
social goals through business. I believe we will create sustainable
stakeholder value and will help society”, said Mr Anuj Bhagwati,
the head of the A.T.E. group, which succinctly underscores A.T.E.’s
commitment to “invent in India”.
Here is an overview of A.T.E.’s businesses in the environmental
space:
Next generation cooling solutions
Fresh air can work wonders. A growing number of studies in
the education, healthcare, and manufacturing sectors have shown
increased productivity and with healthy fresher air. If fresh air can
work wonders, fresh cool air in hot climates is even better. That is
precisely what HMX, a part of the A.T.E. group, does with its unique,
patented technology. It provides fresh cooled air for the industrial
and commercial sectors that not only ensures people comfort and
thereby enhances productivity, but also be used to improve pro-
cess efficiency. And HMX’s solutions can do this without the heavy
power used by air conditioners, so they’re environment friendly
with an affordable lifecycle cost!
At the heart of all HMX products is the DAMA (Dry Air Moist
Air) – a patented heat exchanger (US and Aus-
tralian patents received). It’s a cross flow plate
type sensible heat exchanger built out of an en-
gineering polymer, which provides a non-corro-
sive, non-biodegradable, and anti-bacterial sub-
strate, and has an efficiency of more than 80%.
HMX products minimise the use of refriger-
ants and energy intensive compressors to sup-
ply cool air, using the following configurations
to supply fresh, clean and cool air for different
applications:
l Only Indirect Evaporative Cooling
(IEC)
l Combination of Indirect and Direct
Evaporative Cooling (IDEC)
l Combination of indirect evaporative
cooling and cooling coils (DX or chilled water)
HMX products comprise of two broad prod-
uct families – HMX-Ambiator, and pre-cooling
fresh air units. All HMX’s products improve
indoor air quality inside factory sheds, office
buildings, and education and healthcare facili-
ties.
HMX has many installations covering the
industrial and commercial segments and has a rapidly growing in-
stalled base. With more than 20 million CFM spread over 4 million+
square feet in India, HMX has the world’s largest installed base of
indirect evaporative cooling. More and more large corporates and
multinationals from across segments such as automobiles, engi-
neering, food and beverage, etc., are turning to HMX for innovative
cooling solutions to increase the satisfaction of their workforce,
and for improving the process comfort. The growing list of satis-
fied customers of HMX includes progressive companies such as
ABB, Bilcare, Bosch, Coca Cola, Dabur, Forbes Marshall, GE, HAL,
Mr Anuj Bhagwati,
Head – A.T.E. group
A.T.E. was founded as a
part of India’s freedom
movement. The idea – to
sell high quality German
textile machinery in India
to challenge the prevail-
ing British monopoly in
the field. This endeavour
helped in the modernisa-
tion and growth of the In-
dian textile industry, which
now holds a strong posi-
tion in the world. A.T.E. to-
day is recognised as a lead-
er in textile engineering in
India, offering end to end
solutions across the textile
value chain.

JUNE 2015

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