December 2017 web issue

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TE TILEX
VALUE CHAIN
December 2017 Volume 5 Issue 12
Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707
Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2015-17 published on 5th of every month,
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai
Patrika Channel Sorting Office,Pantnagar- 75, posting date 29/30 of month | Pages 40
Interview : CTMA / SAG
Market Report : Yarn / Apparel Index / Surat
Sustainable Fibre : Milk
Brand Update : Liva/ Beaulieu Yarns / Biba / Uster
Technical Article : Control Techniques for Noise Pollution in Textile Industry: An Overview
Fashion Tips

www.textilevaluechain.com2 December 2017

3www.textilevaluechain.comDecember 2017

TEMPLE RINGS/ROLLERS
YEARS
India's
Leading
Manufacturer
& Exporter of
Picanol/Dornier/Vamatex/Sulzer/SometGRIPPERS RAPIER TAPES Picanol/Dornier/Vamatex/Sulzer/Somet
Torrey Twister
TEMPLES

Contact:
Suresh Saraf+91 9322 50 4449 / +91 9322 10 4449 | Nayan Saraf - +91 7498 88 1400
Oﬃce Landline - 91-22-6002 0119 /
Email : sureshsaraf2000@yahoo.co.in | info@shreebalajisynfabs.com
sureshsaraf@shreebalajisynfabs.com | Website : www.shreebalajisynfabs.com
Address: Room No.-17, Ground Floor, 342 Kalbadevi Road, Mumbai- 400002
9699 25 8834
SHREE BALAJI SYNFABS
SKBS
MR.SURESH SARAF MR. NAYAN SARAF

December 2017 ISSUE
CONTENT
Advertiser Index
9- ECONOMY UPDATE: Key risk events loom as we bid adieu to 2017
by Mr. Abhishek Goenka, IFA Global
MARKET REPORT
11- Yarn Report
14- CMAI Apparel Index
15- Surat update
17- SUSTAINABLE FIBRE: Clothing from Milk Fibre
19- TECHNICAL ARTICLE: control techniques for noise pollution in
textile industry by Dr. V.D. Gotmare, VJTI, Mumbai
23- EVENT REPORT : TEXPROCIL Annual Award
24- GOVT. POLICY: Cabinet approves “ scheme for capacity building
in Textiles Sector”
BRAND UPDATE
25- Liva
26- Beaulieu Yarns
27- BIBA Apparels
28- USTER
NEWS
10- Splash Introduces sustainable intelligent garments powered
by N9 Pure Silver
10- Picanol group employees raise 10,675 euros for kinderkan
kerfonds
16- SIMA hails the Scheme for Capacity Building in Textile Sector
29- 22nd AEPC Export Awards 2016-17 presentation ceremony
30- ‘Best Industry-Linked Technical Institute-2017 Award For –DKTE
30- COLORANT Ltd ,Ahmedabad sponsors SDC Technical Sem¬inar
–Bhiwandi held at Thane West ( Maharastra)
31- Rupa & Company To Launch ‘Fruit Of The Loom’ Inner¬wear
Brand In India Soon
31- Alcis Sports Launches First Mono-Brand Store In Kochi
34- The Mid-Tem Review of Foreign Trade Policy 2015-20 is disap-
pointing for the manmade fibre textile segment
34- Woods Apparel To Get Separate Stores For Its Fashion & Casual
Wear
36 - FASHION TIPS
33- SHOW CALENDAR
INTERVIEW
35- China Textile Machinery Association participates in ITMACH 2017
36- SAG : Dilip Patel, Vice President and Bhavesh Thakar, Secretary
General
EDITORIAL TEAM
Editor and Publisher
Ms. Jigna Shah
Consulting Editor
Mr. Avinash Mayekar
Graphic Designer
Mr. Anant A. Jogale
Sales Manager
Mr. Md. Tanweer
Editorial Assistant
Mrs. Namsha T.
INDUSTRY
Mr. Devchand Chheda
City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group)
Mr. Manohar Samuel
President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries
Dr. M. K. Talukdar
VP, Kusumgar Corporates
Mr. Shailendra Pandey
VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon
Mr. Ajay Sharma
GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group)
EDUCATION / RESEARCH
Mr. B.V. Doctor
HOD knitting, SASMIRA
Dr. Ela Dedhia
Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College
Dr. Mangesh D. Teli
Professor, Dean ICT
Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay
Principal Scientist and Head MPD
Dr. Rajan Nachane
Retired Scientist, CIRCOT
Delhi Representative office :
Mr. Sudhir Verma
Knit Experts
242, Pocket 3,
Sector 23, Near Max Fort School,
Rohini, New Delhi- 110085
Email : knitexperts@rediffmail.com
Tel : +91-9818026572
Back Page : Raymond
Back Inside : RSWM
Front Inside : Raysil
Page 3: SGS Innovation
Page 4: Sanjay Plastic
Page 5: ITF –Dubai
Page 6: SKBS
Page 37: Vora Associate
Page 38: Non Woven
Tech Asia

EDITORIAL
Ms. Jigna Shah
Editor and Publisher
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Glimpse of 2017 which changed textile
industry

I
ndian Government introduced long awaited new Tax structure ie. Good and Service Tax (GST) this year, textile
being dominated by SME sector, many textile cluster got rejection from this organised tax structure. Surat clus-
ter closed for almost 1 month to show their non acceptance of GST and lost crores of rupees and this created
huge unemployment which caused daily wage worker migrated to other industry for their employment which
caused Scarcity of worker in textile industry.
Rebate of State Levies (ROSL) introduced this year to support export of garment and made ups outwards ship-
ment, introduced at 1.55% later changed to 2.20%. MEIS (Merchandise Exports from India Scheme) upgraded
incentive structure from 2% to 4%. Gujarat Government announced Textile Policy 2017, aims to target garment
industry with USD 250mn investment over the next 5 years and targeting 1lakh creation of new jobs under Gar-
ment Package.
Textile Ministry organised the Trade Exhibition in Gandhinagar, capital of Gujarat in middle of the year with the
purpose of integrating entire textile value chain segment and promote business of the industry by minimum
cost. Textile Sector Skill Council got the award of “Champion Sector Skill council” for its outstanding work in es-
tablishing skill training ecosystem for textile and handloom industry.
New Development strategies from government have been incorporated for giving new breath and promote silk,
jute and handloom industry. New Fashion designer has been encouraged to tie-up directly with handloom clus-
ters.
CMAI (Clothing Manufacturer Association of India) and PDEXCIL (Powerloom Development & Export Promotion
Council), two major Garment and Fabric association tie up for integration of value chain which will boost the
powerloom sector as a whole.
Donear group acquired GBTL (Grasim Bhiwani Textile Limited) and OCM Woolen Mills.
Above are few highlights which will change the future of textile industry in coming years.
We wish our industry contribute Productive and Positive in New year 2018..!!!

Key Risk Events Loom As We Bid Adieu to 2017
Heading into 2018, we are in a phase of synchronized glob-
al growth. Business sentiment and consumer confidence
is on the rise, generally across major economies 2017 has
been an exceptional year for risk assets, especially equi-
ties. Major equity indices have hit new all time highs. Low
inflation and wage growth in developed economies, un-
characteristic of this phase of economic cycle has allowed
central banks to withdraw accommodation gradually. As
a result, global liquidity has been chasing yields and this
has resulted in a phenomenal rally in emerging market
stocks, bonds and therefore currencies. There is quite a
bit in store for the remainder of 2017 that could set the
tone for risk sentiment in 2018.
On the global front, the Congress passed a stop gap
measure that has pushed the US debt-ceiling deadline
to 22nd December. The bone of contention between the
Democrats and the Republicans to keep the government
from shutting down is hike in the non-defense spending
cap (that the Democrats are in favor of). The Democrats
want hike in defense spending to be matched by a simi-
lar hike in domestic spending. Democrats are pushing
for legal status for undocumented immigrants who were
brought to the US as children and for continuing funding
of Obama care insurers. Republicans would need some
Democrat votes to pass the spending bill for the next two
years in the Senate. That would entail some sort of a com-
promise on either or both of these contentious issues.
The developments around the tax bill would also be ex-
tremely crucial. Both, the House and the Senate have
passed their respective versions of the bill but the chal-
lenge lies in reconciling both the versions, as there are
considerable differences. The Republicans would have
to chalk out a final plan and both the House and Senate
would have to pass that plan again. The Senate is con-
strained by the Byrd Rule according to which the tax bill
can only increase the federal deficit by up to USD 1.5 Tn
in the first 10 years and by nil thereafter. Therefore, many
of the sops proposed in the Senate version are set to
fade out from 2025 onwards. The house bill on the other
hand is likely to increase the federal budget deficit after
10 years according to CBO (Congressional Budget Office)
making it unviable under Byrd Rule in the Senate. This is
the biggest difference besides many other smaller ones
pertaining to start date for corporate tax cuts, mortgage
deductions, Child tax credit, Obamacare’s individual man-
date etc. The impact on the USD and US rates would de-
pend on whether the final plan has deficit funded tax cuts
or deficit neutral tax reform with the former likely to push
USD and US rates significantly higher and the later not
changing status quo much.
Deficit funded tax plan would most likely elicit a change in
US Federal Reserve’s reaction function and may cause it
to normalize policy sooner than currently anticipated. The
markets would look forward to the FOMC meet on 13th
December to ascertain if there is any change in median
dots (indicating expected trajectory of Fed Funds rate of
FOMC members). The US Dollar could rally if median dot
plot indicates four hikes in 2018 compared to three in the
September dot plot. According to the latest non-farm pay-
roll report, the economy added a higher than expected,
228,000 jobs in November and unemployment rate re-
mained constant at 4.1% well below the NAIRU (non accel-
erating inflation rate of unemployment). However wage
growth continues to remain tepid. This suggests that most
of the jobs that are being added are the ones in industries
where median wages are low.
On the domestic front, Q2 GDP came in at 6.3% (com-
pared to Q1 print of 5.7%). Particularly encouraging is the
pick up in manufacturing activity. Average manufacturing
PMI in Q3 FY18 has been higher than Q2 FY18 which sug-
gests that Q3 growth numbers could be even better. New
export orders component of manufacturing PMI has also
broken its declining trend, which implies exports would
be less of a drag on growth in Q3 unlike Q1 and Q2. In
October the core sector comprising of eight key industries
grew 4.7%, unchanged from August. Inflation is likely to
continue firming up gradually on the back of higher food
and fuel prices but will continue to remain within RBI’s
comfort zone. The RBI kept monetary policy unchanged
in a 5-1 vote in its December policy meeting with one MPC
member voting for a rate cut. The market senses that with
global crude prices sustaining above USD 55 per barrel
mark we could have seen the last of rate cuts in the cur-
rent easing cycle and that the RBI would keep rates on
hold in the foreseeable future. The benchmark 10y yield
has been rising and touched 7.20% in trade as market
prices in no further rate cuts and takes cognizance of the
fact that global rates could also head higher in 2018 due
to increase in supply as central banks trim asset purchas-
es and reduce balance sheet size, Though the trade deficit
is likely to widen on account of higher crude import bill
and weaker exports, the overall balance of payment situa-
tion is likely to remain comfortable if FPIs do not turn net
sellers of Indian debt and equity. Drawdowns related to
foreign currency funding availed by corporates has kept a
lid on up side in USD/INR in the recent past.
The key risk on the domestic front in the near term would
be the outcome of the Gujarat state elections. Exit polls in-
dicate a strong show by BJP in the first phase. While a BJP
victory is largely priced in, any underperformance would
be negative for domestic stocks, bonds and the Rupee.
Considering that the Gujarat elections do not spring any
ECONOMY UPDATE

Mr. Abhishek Goenka
(CEO & Founder : IFA Global)
SPLASH introduces Sustainable intelligent garments pow-
ered by N9 Pure SilverTM
Splash Fashions, a global leader for fast-fashion retail will
be launching anti-bacterial garments powered by N9 Pure
SilverTM
at all outlets across the Middle East. The technol-
ogy aims to enable garments to fight against odor causing
bacteria. Owing to the fact of a growing hygiene quotient
in consumer perspectives, Splash Fashions looks to inject
this technology through their range of lounge wear, men’s
inner wear and socks.
Speaking on Splash’s association with N9 Pure Silver Mr.
Raza Beig, Director, Landmark Group & CEO, Splash,
ICONIC & Landmark International, said, “Bacteria on
garments can no longer be ignored by consumers and
brands. This thought in itself has created the demand for
smarter garments and being at the forefront of giving our
customer the best, we have brought this unique feature
to the Middle Eastern market and chose to partner with
N9 Pure Silver which is a globally recognized anti-bacterial
technology”
N9 Pure SilverTM
, is a revolutionary Silver based Anti-bac-
terial technology that acts by controlling the growth of
odour-causing bacteria on garments, making sure wear-
ers stay fresh and productive all day. N9 Pure SilverTM
is
sustainable, non-leaching, zero VOC and has low Silver
loading properties that makes this technology the ideal
solution for garment treatments. The technology is com-
patible with multiple substrates and processes, and pro-
vides long-lasting freshness and malodor control.
Textile materials do not have any inherent antimicrobial
properties. The natural properties of textile fibers provide
room for the growth of microorganisms due to sweat. Hu-
mid and warm environments further aggravate the prob-
lem. Staining and the loss of performance of textile sub-
strates is a result of microbial attack. The N9 Pure SilverTM
finish is applied to textiles with the intention to protect
the wearer from malodor and the textile substrate from
degradation. The potential presented by N9 Pure SilverTM
is immense. From articles of daily use, such as clothing,
and bed linen, to food packaging and hair care - the op-
portunities are vast, making it an ideal solution for several
industries. N9 Pure Silver™ also finds very interesting con-
sumer applications on textiles as well as other non-textile
substrates such as plastic packaging materials which can
be made more hygienic. Cosmetics can be preserved and
their antimicrobial properties can be enhanced. Shoes
and leather articles can be made odour free and safe to
touch using N9 Pure SilverTM
.
Picanol Group employees raise 10,675 euros for Kinder-
kankerfonds
Last week, the Picanol Group employees in Ypres organ-
ized a winter event for the occasion of De Warmste Week
of Music for Life.
Many colleagues organized an activity, such as the elec-
tronic horse race of PsiControl, the VJ-jukebox, the sale
of laser Christmas trees (Proferro), toasted sandwiches,
a Jenever bar, sausages, Soup4Life and much more. All
of these warm actions were aimed at raising money for
Kinderkankerfonds, a charity selected by our employees
that provides financial and psychological support to chil-
dren with cancer and their families.
We are therefore very proud that together we managed
to raise no less than 7,116 euros for Kinderkankerfonds.
Given the success of all these activities, Picanol Group de-
cided to increase this amount to 10,675 euros.
NEWS
major positive or negative surprise (i.e. a modest vic-
tory for the BJP), the Rupee could end the calendar year
in 64.35-64.65 range. The key risk in 2018 for domestic
markets would stem from union budget, crude prices,
and most importantly US rates. The way US rates pan out
would depend to a great extent on the contours of the
final tax plan. Tail Risk could stem from developments in
Middle east, Korean Peninsula and Italian elections.
ECONOMY UPDATE
NEWS

POLYESTER CHAIN
Ethylene prices in Asian markets inched up in November
supported by healthy Chinese demand ahead of the 2018
term discussions and due to rising upstream values. In
US, ethylene spot prices fell during the month amid re-
starting crackers and recently completed downstream
capacity. In Europe, spot ethylene prices slipped as buy-
ers had stock, bought earlier in the year. Prices averaged
US$ 1,161.00-1,163.00 a ton CFR SE Asia, up 0.6% from
October while European spot fell 6.1% to average Euro
969.90-974.90 a ton FD NWE. US spot prices were down
2.6% on the month to average US cents 27.45-27.95 per
pound FD USG. Paraxylene prices in Asia were upduring
the month on strong feedstock values and increasing
demand in the region. In Europe, spot paraxylene prices
rose to seven-month high in November, reflecting higher
prices in Asia. In US, paraxylene prices inched up on tight
supply in the region. Asian marker, the CFR China aver-
aged US$ 896.40 a ton, up 5.4% from last month while
European paraxylene rose 5.4% to US$ 807.20 a ton FOB
Rotterdam. In US, spot paraxylene was at US $830 a ton
FOB USG, up 2.5% on the month.
Mono ethylene glycol prices in Asia gained in November
amid high feedstock values and limited supply in the re-
gion. In US, spot MEG prices declined on slow demand.
European mono-ethylene glycol spot prices slipped dur-
ing the month amid balanced market fundamentals. MEG
prices averaged US$ 902.40-909.00 a ton FOB SE Asia, up
1.7% in November while European spot was at Euro 930
a ton NWE FCA, down 2.1% on the month. US spot was at
US$ 1,074-1,084 a ton FOB USG, fell 6.1% on the month.
Purified terephthalic acid prices in Asia rose during the
month on lim-
ited supply
due to plant
s h u t d o w n s
amid brisk
demand. In
Europe, PTA
prices were
up on tight
supply. Prices
averaged US$
695.00-702.00
a ton CFR China, up 6.3% from October while European
price was at Euro 679a ton FD NWE, up 1.9% on the month.
Polyester chip prices in Asia inched up on the back of high
PTA and MEG cost. In China, semi dull chip prices were up
bolstered by positive margins, strong demand and con-
trollable inventory.Offers for semi dull chips was up0.7%
to US$ 1,172-1,181a ton and super bright chip jumped
2.6% to US$ 1,194-1,200 a ton.
Polyester filament yarn prices jumped in China in Novem-
ber on the back of low inventory and rigid needs.Trading
atmosphere was favorable, as downstream mills mod-
erately increased their procurement in the face of rising
PFY prices. In India, PFY prices were stable in local cur-
rency but inched up in US$ terms during the month. In
Pakistan, PFY offers were firm during the month. In China,
POY 75/72 prices were up US cents 6 a kg at US$ 1.48-1.49
a kg in Shengze while Indian POY 130/34 prices were up
US cent 1 at US$ 1.47 a kg. In Pakistan, 300/96 DTY prices
were at US$ 0.60-0.70 a pound, unchanged on the month.
Polyester staple fibre prices inched up in China during the
month supported by firm raw material cost, decent de-
mand and limited supply. In Pakistan, PSF was offered at
a higher price during the month amid strong demand in
polyester market. In India, PSF offers were revised up in
November. In China, 1.4D PSF was at US$ 1.36-1.39 a kg,
largely stable as compared to October. In India, 1.2D PSF
prices were at US$ 1.34 per kg, up US cents 3 from last
month. In Pakistan, prices in Karachi were at US$ 1.29-
1.31 a kg, up US cents 2 on the month.
NYLON CHAIN
Benzene markets in Asia hit an eight-month high in No-
vember on strong buying interest and high upstream
prices. In US, spot benzene prices jumped on tight prompt
supply during the month. Supply in the US has been tight
since late October due to regional plant outages. In Eu-
rope, benzene spot market rose as significant volumes
were still being shipped to the US where supply contin-
ued to be tight. Asian marker, FOB Korea surged 7.8% in
November to average US$ 846.60-847.60 a ton while US
spot prices were up 15.8% to US cents 333.35-333.45 per
gallon FOB USG. European spot rose 15.9% to average
US$ 922.20-923.20 a ton CIF ARA and US$ 928.10-929.10 a
ton FOB Rotterdam, up 16.7% on the month. Caprolactum
prices in Asia were up amid modest buying interest from
the downstream. Domestic run rate was at 76.2% during
the month. China’s Juhua is planning to shut its 100,000
tons per year CPL line from mid-December for mainte-
nance which may last 15 days.Asian caprolactam spot
prices averaged US$ 2,016.00-2,110.00 a ton in Novem-
ber, up 6.1% from last month.Sinopec raised November
nomination
to US$ 2,587
a ton while Fi-
brant raised
November r
nomination
to US$ 2,603
a ton for liq-
uid goods.
YARN REPORT
YARN PRICE WATCH REPORT

Nylon or polyamide chip prices were up in November
supported by firmness in caprolactum market. Produc-
ers operated at slightly lower rates as compared to last
month. However, as downstream buyers purchased cau-
tiously, pressure on the supply side still existed, especially
for high-priced bright and semi-dull nylon-6 chips. Offers
for Taiwan-origin chips averaged US$ 2,350-2,380 a ton,
up 5% from last month. In China, bright conventional
spinning nylon-6 chips were priced at US$ 2,619-2,833,
down 6.9% from October while semi-dull chips were of-
fered at US$ 2,833-2,891 a ton, up 0.3% on the month. Ny-
lon filament yarn prices inched up amid firm raw material
cost during the month. Market largely remained range
bound supported by chip cost and modest demand. Buy-
ers followed up actively, however high offers could hardly
attract the interest. Industrial run rate was at 78%, with
capacity at around 3.5 million tons a year. Demand was
on a need-to basis. In China, semi-dull FDY70D/24F was
traded at US$ 3.43-3.55 a kg, up US cents 2 from previous
month while FDY40D were at US$ 3.66-3.78 a kg, up US
cents 8.
ACRYLIC CHAIN
Propylene prices in Asia fell in November amid ample
availability and weak buying interest in the region.In
Europe, bal-
a n c e d - t o -
lengthening
spot availabil-
ity softened
spot price
trend during
the month. In
US, spot pro-
pylene prices
were stable to
up amid decreasing inventories, leading to tight supply.
Asian marker, FOB Korea averaged US$ 895.36-897.36
a ton, fell5.1% from October, and CFR China was at US$
944.80-946.80 a ton, down4.1% from previous month. In
Europe, CG propylene declined 4.3% to Euro776.40-780.40
a ton FD while spot polymer-grade propylene prices in US
were at US$ 44.67-45.17 per pound ton FD, nearly flat on
the month. Acrylonitrile prices in Asian markets moved up
slightly, however, tightness of supply was easing some-
what amid plant restarts and relatively high run rates. In
US, spot ACN prices weakened on increasing availability
amid seasonal downturn in demand. In Europe, acryloni-
trile prices were up taking cues from Asian markets.Euro-
pean prices inched up 2% to US$ 1,879.00-1,883.00 a ton
CIF Med while US export assessments averaged at US$
1,801.00-1,811.00 a ton USG, down 2.7% on the month.
Asian marker, the CFR Far East Asia climbed1.5% to aver-
age US$ 1,961. 40-1,973.00 a ton.
Acrylic staple fibre prices marched north in the Asian
markets of China, India and Pakistan. In China, ASF offers
hiked for the month reacting to the recent up trends in the
ACN market. However, downstream converters reflected
lackluster appetite for acrylic yarn currently, and coupled
with high cost, they showed limited interest for ASF. The
industrial run rate was at 76% during the month, so sup-
ply remained stable. In India, ASF prices continued the up-
ward trend this month on persistent tightness in supply.
In Pakistan, ASF prices was revised up during the month
taking cues from other markets in the region. In China,
offers for cotton-type staple were up US cents 9 at US$
2.59-2.68 a kg and medium-length staple rose US cents
10 at US$ 2.60-2.68 a kg. Sinopec Chemicals issued its De-
cember contracts for ASF with 1.5D at 17.25-17.60 Yuan a
kg (US$ 2.61-2.66 a kg) and medium length ASF at 17.30-
17.65 Yuan a kg (US$ 2.62-2.67 a kg). Indian offers for ASF
were up INR 7 at INR 171.50-172.50 a kg (US$ 2.564-2.65
a kg, up US cents 11). In Pakistan, 1.2D ASF prices were at
US$ 2.41 a kg, up US cents 30 on the month.
VISCOSE CHAIN
Viscose staple fibre prices declined in November on mod-
est buying
sentiment of
market par-
ticipants as
downstream
mills still
showed low
interest with
s i d e l i n e d
stance. In
China, offers
for VSF aver-
aged US$ 2.24 a kg, down US cents 17on the month.In
Pakistan, VSF prices fell during the month. Prices in India
rolled over during the month. In Pakistan, 1.5D VSF prices
fell US cents 5at US$ 2.18 a kg. In India, producers’ prices
were at US$ 2.29 a kg, up US cents 2from last month. Vis-
cose filament yarn prices in Asian markets were largely
unchanged during the month. In China, viscose filament
yarn offers were stable despite slightly weak viscose sta-
ple fibre cost. VFY prices were firm amid modest liquid-
ity and balanced fundamentals. Downstream converters
generally purchased according to their own plans, and as
a result demand moved slightly. In India, viscose filament
yarn prices were firm amid decent demand. In China,
120D dull VFY offers inched up US cent1 at US$ 6.01 a kg
while bright also up US cent 1at US$ 5.93 a kg. In India,
120D bright VFY was at US$ 5.62a kg, up US cents 3 from
previous month. Offers for hardwood pulp and softwood
pulp were at US$ 915-930 a ton and US$ 980 a ton respec-
tively.
COTTON
US cotton futures gained in November supported by short
covering after the monthly crop supply and demand re-
port from the US government. Prices were also bolstered
YARN REPORT

by strong buying amid December options expiry and mill
fixations. Cotton was moving up because all the commod-
ities were going up. The March contract on ICE Futures US
gained 3.7% for the month to average US cents 70.33. The
Cotlook A index inched up 3.3% closing November at an
average of US cents 80.73 per pound. The China Cotton
was down 0.3% on the month at 15,943.40 Yuan a ton.
In Pakistan, cotton prices surged amid hectic buying by
spinners. However, slow arrival of phutti (seed cotton) re-
stricted the trading volume. The official spot rate averaged
at Pak Rs 6,625.00 per month ex-Karachi, up 5% on the
month. In India, cotton prices rose on the month due to
fall in output as the crops were found to be infested with
pink bollworms. India is expected to export early one-fifth
less cotton as compared to previous estimations. Most
varieties saw prices rise 0.2-4.1% in November.
SPUN YARN
Cotton yarn markets in November rolled over in China in
line with overall stability in cotton market. Market senti-
ment was firm amid moderate transactions during the
month. As cotton yarn market saw moderate transac-
tions, and most orders were for short-term use, produc-
ers did not hold enough confidence on market sentiment
in the future. In India, cotton yarn prices remained un-
changed at the previous month’s level despite the new
rise in cotton prices. In Pakistan, cotton fibre and yarn
prices moved in tandem with each other this month. Cot-
ton fiber prices rose sharply while yarn prices were also
up, with demand still remaining very strong. In China, 32s
carded cotton yarn in Shengze market was stable at US$
3.48-3.55 a kg while 21s combed were at US$ 3.33-3.40 a
kg, up US cents 2 from October. In India, 30s combed for
knitting were at US$ 2.95 a kg, down US cents 2 on the
month. In Pakistan, 20s carded yarn was at US$ 2.82 a kg,
up US cents 10 on the month while 30s carded were at
US$ 3.17 a kg, up US cents 4 from previous month.
Polyester spun yarn prices in November jumped in China
over a new rise in polyester staple fiber prices. In India,
spun polyester yarn prices continued the downtrend this
month and have lost INR 18 per kg in the last eight weeks.
In Pakistan, polyester yarn prices were up in line with
increasing PSF cost. In Shengze, offers for 32s polyester
yarn were at US$ 2.04-2.05 a kg, up US cents 3 from Oc-
tober. In India, 30 polyester knit yarns were at US$ 2.05 a
kg, fell US cents 12 in Ludhiana market. In Pakistan, 30s
spun polyester was at US$ 2.55 a kg, up US cents 2 on
the month. Viscose spun yarn prices declined in China in
tandem with falling viscose staple fiber prices. In Pakistan,
viscose spun yarn prices edged down with relatively lower
level of demand at the end of the season. In India, viscose
spun yarn prices were revised down during the month. In
Xiaoshan, 30s spun viscose were at US$ 2.86 a kg, down
US cents 10 in the month. In India, 30s viscose prices were
at US$ 2.67 a kg, down US cents 2 in Ludhiana market. In
Pakistan, 35s viscose yarn fell US cents 12 at US$ 2.89 a
kg in Karachi.
Blended yarn
prices were
steady in Chi-
na, fell in In-
dia while they
rose in Paki-
stan during
the month. In
China, offers
for PC yarn
and PV yarn
prices largely remained unchanged in November. How-
ever, PC yarn prices fell in US$ terms as the local cur-
rency was weak while US$ was strong during the month.
In India, PV yarn offers declined during the month while
PC yarn prices also edged down. In Pakistan, poly-cotton
prices inched up while poly-viscose prices were stable dur-
ing the month. Prices increase was limited due to slow do-
mestic and international demand. In India, PC 30s (52/48)
were at US$ 2.62 a kg in Ludhiana market, down US cent
1 from last month while PV 30s (65/35) were at US$ 2.39 a
kg, up US cent 1 from last month. In Pakistan, PC 30s were
flat at US$ 2.66 a kg on the Faisalabad market. In Qianqing
market, polyester-cotton 32s (65/35) were traded at US$
2.66 a kg, unchanged on the month while 45s (65/35) yarn
were at US$ 3.60 a kg, rolled over on the month.
ALIYAN MIRZA
YarnsandFibers.com (YnFx)
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adjust my sails to always reach my destination.
Put your heart, mind, and soul into even your smallest
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YARN REPORT

CMAI APPAREL INDEX
Q2 is the first quarter post-GST. And much like other sec-
tors, apparel brands and retailers too were busy putting
GST processes in place and sales suffered a big blow. July
was the first month when the industry emerged after
clearing pre-GST inventories. Interestingly, GST augured
well for organised players, as bigger brands and organ-
ized players were quick to adapt, and this is evident in
the Apparel Index of various brand groups. Bigger the
brand group, higher the growth in this quarter.Giant
Brands (turnover above R300 crores) clocked in 8.72
points, followed by Large Brands at 6.65 and Mid Brands
1.25 points; Small Brands which are generally managed
by owners singlehandedly, recorded the lowest index
growth of just 0.29 points.
BIG BRANDS STAY POSITIVE DESPITE GST
CMAl’s overall Apparel Index in Q2 was 1.87 points. The
figure is almost 6.5 times higher than the index value for
Small Brands (turnovers of Rs 10 to 25 crores) which is
at 0.29 points. The index for Mid Brands (turnovers of
R25-100 crores) is 1.25 points, and the overall index is
1.5 times higher than this figure. However, at 6.65 points,
Large Brands’ growth is almost 3.5 times higher than the
overall index. But as always, it’s the Giant Brands that
have led growth in Q2, much like earlier quarters with
a significant 8.72 points. Giant Brands have consistently
been doing well every quarter.Notably, the index value
for Giants Brands is 4.66 times higher than the Overall
Index.
Giant Brands managed a fabulous 8.72 points growth
and increased Sales Turnover to 5.8 points.Comparative-
ly, Large Brands Sales Turnover grew 4.4 points and Mid
Brands Sales Turnover grew a meager 0.8. Small Brands,
the laggards, recorded a negative Sales Turnover which
was -0.8 points, this quarter. Overall, the Index Value, this
quarter,saw most dynamism from Sales Turnover, other
attributes like Sell Through, Inventory Holding and fresh
Investments reflected a much lesser change.
Q2 Apparel Index clearly indicates, once more, that Gi-
ant Brands have outdone Large, Mid and Small Brands.
Small and Mid Brands could manage little growth in Sales
Turnover, perhaps because the GST implementation pro-
cess stalled or reduced deliveries during these months.
Giant and Large Brands being more organised and better
connected with organised retail through MBOs, EBOs and
Large Format Stores managed their business and sales
turnover well. Moreover, they increased sales turnovers
significantly at 5.8 and 4.4 points respectively
RISING INVENTORY HOLDINGS A BANE
The index clearly reflects a strong correlation between
Sales Turnover and Inventory Holding which impacts In-
vestments. This quarter, the biggest effect was from GST,
as brands across the board looked at ways to reduce its
impact. As Sunil
Kumar, Proprietor, Blueman explains, “The reason why
our inventory holding increased is due to GST. The market
slowed down and stocks had to be held. The other reason
is, now there are plenty of ayers in the same segment and
common itemsare available, so demand is low.”
Agrees Nirmal, Owner, Detail Clothing, “The reason for a
dip in our turnover is the market is slow since GST was
incorporated. The parties whom we take orders from
are disturbed. People doing job work stopped work-
ing, Customers reduced demand or material and stocks
werestopped. Retail sales decreased.”
This quarter nearly, 43 per cent brands reported an in-
crease in Sales Turnover. It must, however, be noted, that
since GST came into force from July 1, EOSS continued in
the month of July in spite of major EOSS in the month of
June (pre-GST), boosting sales turnover. Hence, the fig-
ures seem more inflated than actual sales growth. And
as Usha Periasamy, Director-Operations & Brand, Classic
Polo opines, “Yes, there is an incremental jump over last
year in sales turnover and sell through for our brand. The
primary reason is the design component clubbed with
market expansion. It’s a blessing in disguise for all value
for money brands post the erratic commercial/ economic
policy changes, which have also added a certain throttle
to the business, while overall market sentiments are a not
so favourable for premium and luxury brands in India.”
Inventory duration increased by 54 per cent across all
brand groups. Samir Patel, Owner, Deal Jeans explains,
“The reason for an increase in our inventory holding is not
because of the market slowdown. It is more because we
have increased the variety of items therefore, there are
more products and inventory holding has gone up.”
A comparison between Small and Big Brands indicate,
the gap between Big and Small brands is the widest ever
in this quarter, indicating Small Brands need to buck up
and work to put their processes in place under the cur-
rent GST regime.
“Our Investments have increased as we have a huge stock
of new arrivals. We wanted to make the market aware of
our inventory strength. Hence, to create brand aware-
ness, we have spent more on advertisements to capture
the market,” avers Hemant Jaiswal, Business Head, Body-
A report on CMAI’s Apparel Index for Q2 as it dips to 1.87 points, GST impacts business sen-
timent and Giant Brands thrive on.
MARKET REPORT

care Creation.
AVERAGE OUTLOOK FOR NEXT QUARTER
While there may still be a sense of optimism about overall
business especially among bigger brands, nearly 48 per
cent brands have said their outlook for next quarter is
average. Another 36 per cent feel the outlook is ‘Good’.
And only 9 per cent foresee an ‘excellent’ outlook. At the
same time, 7 per cent also feel it will be ‘Below Average’.
It may be noted that generally, Q3 of the financial year,
is seen as the best quarter as most festivals and wed-
dings fall during this period, brands expect an average to
a good season, coupled with almost dry supply chain and
shelves in quest of fresh goods, post first quarter of GST.
Consumers too, are expected to return to stores, GST and
new processes would be settled in especially by Oct-Nov
and this augurs well for business.
CMAl’s Apparel Index aims to set a benchmark for the en-
tire domestic apparel industry and help brands in taking
informed businessdecisions. For investors, industry play-
POINTERS
ƒ Q2 Apparel Index reflects little buoyancy in business.
ƒ Index falls to 1.87 this quarter compared to 2.77 in
Q1.
ƒ Q2 is the first quarter post GST.
ƒ Bigger the brand group, higher the
ƒ growth, in this quarter• Giant Brands clocked in the
highest index at 8.72 points.
ƒ Small Brands recorded the lowest index growth at
just 0.29 points.
ƒ Sales Turnover for Giant Brands was the highest at
5.8.
ƒ Small Brands recorded negative Sales Turnover, for
the first time, at -0.8.
ƒ Almost half the brands foresee an average outlook for
next quarter.
Apparel Index C u m u -
lative
Small Mid Large Giant
Total Brands 100 61 20 10 9
Sales Turnover - 1.76 0.8 0.8 4.4 5.8
Sell Through 0.92 1.3 1 1.8 2.2
Inventory Holding 1.33 1.8 1.1 1.3 1.7
Investment 1.42 1.5 0.6 1.6 2.4
Overall Index
Value
1.87 0.29 1.25 6.65 8.72
ers, stake holders and policy makers the index is a useful
tool offering concrete and credible information, and is an
excellent source for assessing the performance of the in-
dustry. The
Index is analyzed by assessing the performance on four
parameters: Sales Turnover, Sell Through (percentage of
fresh stocks sold), number of days of Inventory Holding
and Investments (signifying future confidence) in brand
development and brandbuilding. The Apparel Index
Surat will get Textile Skill develop-
ment centre soon !!!
Textile city Surat will have new skill development cent-
er in near future. Last week, The cabinet committee on
economic affairs, has given its approval for Scheme for
Capacity Building in Textile Sector (SCBTS), a new skill
development scheme covering the textile sector. This
scheme will have an outlay of Rs 1,300 crore for 3 years.
Industry sourses said, these center will develop in Su-
rat, Ichalkaranji, Bhilwara, Tirupur, Varanasi, Malegaon,
Pali and in Bhiwandi. The scheme will have ‘National
Skill Qualification Framework (NSQF)’ compliant training
courses with funding norms as per the common norms
notified by Ministry of Skill Development and Entrepre-
neurship (MSDE).
There are 6.5 lakh powerloom machines are installed in
surat which produces app. 3 crore meter fabrics per day.
Weaving industries in the city is unorganised and most
labourers in the city are self-groomed without any proper
technical skill orientation or training and this creates an
inconsistency in the production and quality parameters.
Upskilling and recognition of prior learning is the need
of the hour for the Surat powerloom industry, which em-
ploys four lakh workers directly. The skilling programmes
would be implemented through textile industry to meet
trained manpower requirement. The new skill devel-
opment center will help the industry to adopt scientific
principles for upgrading skills of employees and achieve
higher productivity. It would also facilitate to cut cost
and improve fabrics quality in textile manufacturing unit.
Around 10 lakh people are expected to be skilled and
certified in various segments of textile sector across the
country.
Burden on traders as fabric job
charges may increase upto 10% !!!
Thousands of textile traders in the city may have to pay
more for fabric’s dyeing and printing job. The textile
processors are all set to hike the job cherges upto 10% in
near days. Now a days, traders are already full of anxiety
with GST issues, enhanced packaging material cost and
with further hike in fabric processing job charges upto
MARKET REPORT
SURAT UPDATE

10 percent will result in an overall increase of around 15
percent in the finished fabric category.
The textile mill sources said, the hike in job charges is in-
evitable due to the increase in the raw material costs. The
prices of dyes-chemical, coal, lignite, and labour charges
have increased by 15 to 20% in the last few days. Besides
this, the Gas company recently has increased the prices
of natural gas supplied to its industrial consumers. The
hike in the fuel prices is likely to hit the dyes, chemicals
and textile processors very hard in south Gujarat. Around
350 textile dyeing and printing mills are operating below
of their capacity. Sources said, the overall operating cost
in the mill is increased. Now, the processrs have no option
but to increase the fabric job charges. The processors will
meet shortly to study raw material, fuel price hike and ac-
cordingly increase the job charges. The job charges may
raised by 5-10% in mid of January.
On the other hand, the textile traders are not happy with
any price hike in job charges. The traders association said,
synthetic textile industry in Surat are yet to come out of
the GST issues and the hike in fabric dyeing and printing
job rates will further increases the burden. They won’t be
able to pass on the price hike to the buyers. There is al-
ready 25 to 30 percent reduction in the daily turnover of
MMF fabrics due to hike in the crude oil price which has
resulted in increase of yarn prices making the unfinished
fabric costly. Surat’s power loom weavers manufacture 3
crore metre of fabrics per day, which have been reduced
to 2 crore metre per day post-GST. The daily business
turnover in the textile market has come down drasticaly.
Confusion of GST rate on unstitched
fabrics over Rs.1000
The Goods and Service Tax (GST) rate issue has again cre-
ated a confusive situation for textile traders. The textile
traders dealing in unstiched fabrics were doing business
by imposing 5% GST on lenghas, unstitched salwar ka-
meez and dress material and maintaining record accord-
ingly to file the returns till the date. Now they are worried
as they will have to reverse the entries of their sale as
tax consultants have clarified that GST on these fabrics
priced above Rs 1,000 was 12% and not 5%. The GST
Council, earlier had kept GST rate on unstitched fabrics at
5%. Now, the rate has been increased to 12% on products
above Rs 1,000. Traders are in confusion as they have
been charging 5% GST on such items. Sources said, there
is no clarity from the GST commissionerate over 12% GST
on unstitched fabric. It is going to be tough for many trad-
ers to correct the old bills.
The Indian textiles & clothing industry being the second
largest employment provider next only to agriculture re-
quired to train the workforce on a scientific basis and con-
stantly upgrade the skills to remain globally competitive
and also enable the employees to earn good remunera-
tion. Against this background, the Ministry of Textiles
had earlier launched the Integrated Skill Development
Scheme (ISDS) with a budget outlay of Rs.272 crores un-
der 11th Plan and Rs.1900 crores in the 12th Plan. Un-
der this Scheme, around 11 lakh people got benefited.
The industry has been demanding to announce a special
scheme not only for training the fresh workers, but also
for upskilling and for the skill Upgradation of Supervisors,
Executives, Managers and Entrepreneurs. Now the Gov-
ernment has announced a comprehensive Scheme for
Capacity Building in Textile Sector (SCBTS) with a budget
outlay of Rs.1300 crores for two years.
Mr.P Nataraj, Chairman, The Southern India Mills’ As-
sociation (SIMA) has thanked the Hon’ble Prime Minister
and Hon’ble Union Minister for Textiles for acceding to
the appeal of the industry and announcing the SCBTS. He
has said that the Indian textile industry has been lagging
in productivity and counties like China, Bangladesh, Viet-
nam, etc., are much ahead in productivity. He has stated
that the new scheme would enable the industry to adopt
scientific principles for upgrading the skills of the employ-
ees and achieve higher productivity. He has said that
the Scheme would also facilitate to cut cost and improve
quality.
SIMA hails the Scheme for Capacity Building in Textile
Sector
MARKET REPORT
ASSOCIATION NEWS

CLOTHING FROM MILK FIBRE
Fibres like cotton Linen have ruled the world since the
start of civilization. As we speak about innovation and
technology China with its large scale production has in-
vented new fibres like Milk and Soybean.Though in the
1940’ s the fibres were quite popular in America and Eu-
rope the market for it collapsed due to World War II. Now
regenerated, these fibres are more efficient and durable
than any other fibre invented before or existing today.
Milk fibre was invented in 1930‘ s in Italy by Antonio Fer-
ratti. It was manufactured from milk casein to compete
with wool. Casein fibres have since being produced under
various names in a number of countries,
y Lanital in Belgium and France.
y Fibrolane in Britain.
y Merinova in Italy.
y Wipolan in Poland.
y Aralac in America
Casein is obtained by the acid treatment of skimmed
milk. The casein coagulates as a curd which is washed
and dried, and then ground to fine powder. 35 litres of
skimmed milk produce about 1 kg of casein. Today ‘ s milk
fibre is environmentally friendly, superior in strength and
has far better qualities than man –made fibres. Casein (
milk ) protein dates back many centuries when it was used
as a binder for paints – paint with casein applied to 14 th
and 15 th century churches still appears bright and un-
faded. Proteins are obtained from skim milk,evaporated
milk and condensed milk. There are about three pounds
of casein in every 100 pounds of milk.
Production of milk fibre ;
Casein is obtained by the acid treatment of skimmed
milk. The casein coagulates as a curd which is washed
and dried, and then ground to a fine powder. 35 litres of
skimmed milk produce about 1 kg of casein.
Casein is dissolved in caustic soda solution. The solution
is allowed to ripen until it reaches a suitable viscosity, and
is then filtered and deaerated.The spinning solution is wet
spun by extrusion through spinnerets into a coagulating
bath containing sulphuric acid ( 2 parts ),formaldehyde( 5
parts ), glucose ( 20 parts )and water ( 100 parts).the jets
of solution coagulate into filaments in a manner similar
to the coagulation of viscose filaments. But the next pro-
cess is very critical as the fibre has to be treated chemi-
cally to harden it. The process is commonly described as
“ hardening “, in that it minimized the softening effects
of water.Treatment with formaldehyde forms the basis of
many hardening techniques. In the plant scale bunches
of filaments are collected together into a tow as they leave
the coagulating bath, and are then steeped in formalde-
hyde solution. the filaments are subjected to drawing at
this stage. After treatment, the tow is washed and dried,
crimped mechanically, and then cut into staple fibre. Oth-
erwise the tow to top convertor makes tops for blending
with wool. Following are the varieties available in market.
staple fibre /tops
fineness length
1.56 dtex 38 mm
1.56 dtex 46 mm
2.22 dtex 76 mm
Milk fibre has passed oeko-tex standard 100 green certi-
fication for the international ecological textiles. The milk
fibre contains eighteen amino-acids, which is beneficial to
human’s health and has the functions of nourishing and
taking care of skin.The wet spinning technology, a unique
spinning solvent is used, micro-zinc ions are is embedded
in the fibre, after drying and after treatment, zinc oxide
is produced, therefore it is bacteriostatic and durable.
Casein fibre is produced almost entirely as staple, tow or
top.
FLOW CHART OF MILK FIBRE PRODUCTION.
Casein ------ mixing ( caustic soda and water )------- filtra-
tion -------deaeration ----- spinning ----- tow --------drawing
----- hardening ----- washing ----- drying ----- crimping ----
cutter --------- baling.
Milk fibre resembles wool in having a soft warm handle.
The fibres are naturally crimped, and yarns have a char-
acteristic warmth and fullness of handle. It provides good
thermal insulation. They are resilient, like wool. Casein fi-
bres cannot be distinguished from wool fibres by chemi-
cal or burning tests, only by microscope. because chemi-
cal composition is so similar, casein burns like wool with
odour of burning hair, has no surface scales like wool but
is smooth and round when viewed under a microscope, is
damaged readily by alkalis and mildews easily.
Properties of Milk fibre,
Properties Casein Silk Wool Cotton
Tenacity gm/den 1.1-0.9 1-1.5 1.5-2.0 2-5.5
Elongation, % 60-70 25-45 25-40 6-10
Density,gm/cm3 1.30 1.34-1.38 1.33 1.50-1.54
Moisture regain,% 14 11.0 14-16 9
Acid resistance Good excellent excellent Bad
Alkali resistance Bad good bad Excellent
Resistance to
moth/fungus
Resist-
ance to
moth
but ot to
fungus
Resistance
to Fungus
but not To
moth
Resistance
to fungus
but not to
moth
Resist-
ance to
moth but
not to
fungus
U.V resistance bad bad bad good
The filaments are smooth –surfaced. cross section is bean
shaped. the natural colour is white. When wet, the fibres
lose much of their strength ; tenacity falls to 0.6 to 0.3
SUSTAINABLE FIBRE

g/den. Milk fibre tends to absorb moisture readily, and
the fibres become swollen and soft. they may become
plastic and sticky as the temperature is raised. The fibres
become brittle and yellow on prolonged heating at over
100 deg c. It burns slowly in air.flammability is similar to
wool. The fibre base body does not have regular chan-
nels, which makes the milk fibre have as fine moisture
absorption as natural fibre and better moisture conduc-
tion than synthetic fibres – milk fibre is both comfortable
and permeable.fibres are white, fluffy, springy and have
a pleasant odour. Even though casein fibre lacks certain
desirable qualities of wool it was a way to replace wool at
a lower cost. when mixed with viscose and wool,casein
helped in the conservation effort during world war II as
a wool substitute. Though caseins can be laundered with
care the same as wool, they loose strength when wet and
must be handled gently. they cannot be kept damp for
any length of time due to quick mildewing.
Today’ s milk fibre is environmentally friendly, superior
in strength and has far better qualities than man-made
fibres.
Blending of milk fibre ; When blended with other fibres
casein added a soft draping quality and resilllliency to fab-
rics. Fibre was blended with wool for creating felt and with
spun rayon,wool,mohair and cotton for attractive woven
and knitted fabrics in a variety of weaves, textures and
prints. The popular blends were wool -94% and casein
fibre -6 %., and viscose-50% and casein fibre – 50 %. Ca-
sein /cotton blends are popular for hosiery and carpets.
A small amount of fibre is used for 100 % casein goods,
but most casein fibre is blended with wool, cotton, rayon,
nylon and other staple fibres.
Blends containing casein may be spun on all the usual
systems
a) Cotton system – viscose/casein blends
b) Woolen system. – casein/ wool or viscose blends.
c) Worsted system. – casein /wool or viscose blends.
d) Flax system. - casein/viscose blends.
TYPE OF BLENDS COUNT
100% Milk yarn 10-80 Ne
Milk fibre /cotton 10-80 Ne
Milk fibre /cotton/modal 10-80 Ne
Milk fibre /Tencel 10-80 Ne
Milk fibre /bamboo fibre 10-80 Ne
Milk fibre/cashmere/wool 16-80 Ne
Milk fibre/silk 16-80 Ne
Milk fibre/camel hair 16-80 Ne
Milk fibre/silk/cashmere 16-80 Ne
Milk fibre/silk/cashmere/tencel/cotton 16-80 Ne
Chemical processing of Milk Protein Fibre ( Casein) ;
Milk protein fibre has different physical and chemical con-
struction from natural protein fibre, care is taken in the
following steps ;
1. Desizing -Enzyme products may be used, preferally at
pH 4.0 to 6.0. If water soluble sizes have been used, desiz-
ing is not necessary.
2. Scouring -Synthetic detergents should be used, prefer-
ably under acid conditions, e.g pH 6.0.
3. Bleaching -Casein fibre is generally white, and bleach-
ing is not usually necessary. If required, it should be
carried out under weakly conditions,e.g pH 4.0 -6.0 as
Casein fibres retain maximum strength and minimum
swelling under these conditions. Hypochlorite bleaches
should not be used. Bleaching may be carried out with
Hydrogen Peroxide – 2 gpl at a pH of 8.0 using Sodium
Pyrophosphate. It must be followed by careful washing
and acidification with acetic acid. Normal optical bleach-
ing agents may be applied.
4. Dyeing - Casein absorbs moisture readily and does not
have a highly orientated structure. Dyes can penetrate
into the fibre without difficulty.
Casein can be dyed with dyestuffs used for wool. Acid,
Basic, Direct and Disperse dyes are used where good
washing –fastness is note a prime essential. Metal com-
plex dyes give high wash fastness. pH of the dyeliquor
should be between pH 4 & 6. Dyeing is usually carried out
at 90-95 deg c.
5. Printing - Fabrics containing casein may be printed by
block, screen,& roller. Acid, basic, direct, chrome, mor-
dant, azoic, vat or pigment dyes may be used.
6. Finishing - Crease –resist finishes may be applied to
blends containing casein fibre, using temperatures not
higher than 160 deg c. for approximately 2.5 mins.
Uses of Milk Protein fibre ; One of the earliest uses for
casein fibre was in the making of felt for hats. Casein /
wool blends are used for knitted berets. Casein/cotton or
nylon blended fabrics are used for interlock outerwear, T
shirts, cardigans, jumpers etc. casein blended with wool,
cotton,viscose, nylon is used in Raschel cloths, coatings,
blanket fabrics. Blends of casein and wool are made into
pressed felts for use as floor coverings and used in con-
ventional and tufted carpets. Pile carpets are made using
casein -50% and wool or viscose -50%.
Acknowledgement – The author is thankful to Mr S.K
Khandelia,President, Chenab Textile Mills, Kathua ( J & K )
for giving permission to publish this article.
Dr N.N.Mahapatra
President
COLORANT LTD
SUSTAINABLE FIBRE

Control Techniques for Noise Pollution in Textile Industry: An
Overview
Abstract:
Textile manufacturing is one of the largest industrial pro-
cess that uses water, many hazardous chemicals like for-
maldehyde, azo dyes chlorinated compounds and man
power. However one of the major contributors to environ-
mental pollution apart from air and water is noise.Noise
is an unwanted sound that interfaces with the function in
given time. Prolonged exposure to high noise causes psy-
chological effects and physical damage includes loss in
concentration which finally affects the job performance.
Today the machinery manufactures are taking continu-
ous efforts to reduce the noise level but the measures are
not adequate to protect the textile workers from noise re-
lated diseases. This paper enlightens the facts about the
noise pollution due to textile machines, its accessories in
preventive measures and controlling the same.
Keywords: Noise Pollution, Noise and Machine Behavior ,
Introduction to Textile Industry:
Textile industry is a significant contributor to many na-
tional economies, encompassing both small and large-
scale operations worldwide. Though the textile industry
is one of the largest industries, its manufacturing process
is characterized by high consumption of resources like
water, fuel and a variety of chemicals in a long process
sequence that generates a significant amount of waste.
The system/procedure of low process efficiency results in
substantial wastage of resources and a severe damage
to the environment. The main environmental problems
associated with textile industry are typically those associ-
ated with water body pollution caused by the discharge of
untreated effluents. Other environmental issues of equal
importance are air emission, notably Volatile Organic
Compounds (VOC) and excessive noise as well as work-
space safety[1]. In recent years, even developing country
like India has taken positive steps against the noise pol-
lution; Noise pollution has been accepted as major threat
to human beings. Much discussion and legislation have
been evolved in an attempt to recognize and combat the
problem of noise pollution. It has been recognized that
noise of sufficient intensity can damage hearing. The
problem of noise pollution can be combated when there
are means of measuring noise level and systems of clas-
sification.
Textile and pollution:
The textile process deals with production of fiber, yarn
and fabric followed by pre and post chemical, mechanical
process. Each process causes some environmental issues
that can be listed as follows,
1) Air pollution( Dust )
2) Water pollution
3) Solid waste pollution
4) Noise pollution
1) Air pollution:
Most processes performed in textile mills produce atmos-
pheric emissions. Gaseous emissions have been identified
as the second greatest pollution problem (after effluent
quality) for the textile industry. Speculation concerning
the amount and type of air pollutants emitted from textile
operations has been widespread but, air emission data
for textile manufacturing operations are not readily avail-
able. Air pollution is the most difficult type of pollution to
sample test and quantify in an audit. Air emissions can be
classified according to the nature of their sources.
Textile mills usually generate nitrogen and sulphur oxides
from boilers. Other significant sources of air emissions in
textile operations include, fabric preparation,dyeing,resin
finishing, printing wastewater treatment plants. Apart
from this in spinning mill, the process of removing trash
from cotton fibers by opening and beating process results
in liberation of fiber fluff in the surrounding environment.
The amount of fiber fluff liberated varies from section to
section, being highest in blow room and minimum at the
cone winding section. The exposure of workers to such
working environment conditions containing fiber parti-
cles and dust poses a severe health risk which is shown in
the Fig.No 1. Generally, air suction system exists nearly in
all departments to maintain certain humidity and remove
air contaminants. At some places it works effectively but
in certain areas air exchange is not proper resulting in
suffocation and inconvenience to the workers. In weaving
mill, fibrous particles present in the working environment
are not much. The small fibrous particles generated dur-
ing weaving activities disperse in occupational air [3] the
fluff liberation in the departments with modern textile
machines which is shown in the Table No.1, has drasti-
cally reduced with most of the machines having major
sections fully enclosed.
Table 1: Concentration limits of dust in air stream
Process Limit (mg/m3)
Blow room to Speed frame 0.50
Spinning (Ring Frame) 0.20
Twisting 0.20
Winding 0.20
TECHNICAL ARTICLE

Warping 0.20
Sizing 0.75
Weaving 0.75
Nonwoven 0.50
Fig.1: Problems of fluff liberation in spinning and weaving sheds
2) Water pollution:
The textile industry uses high volumes of water through-
out its operations, from washing of fibers to bleaching,
dyeing and washing of finished products. On an average,
approximately 200 liters of water is required to produce
l kg of textiles. from Fig No. 3 and it is seen that the large
volume of waste water generated contains a wide variety
of chemicals used throughout processing. This polluted
water can cause severe damage if it is not treated prop-
erly before being discharged into the environment. All the
stages involved in textile manufacturing, wet processing
creates the highest volume of waste water.
The aquatic toxicity of textile industry waste water varies
considerably among production facilities. The sources of
aquatic toxicity can include salt, surfactants, ionic metals
and their metal complexes, toxic organic chemicals, bioc-
ides and toxic anions. Most textile dyes have low aquatic
toxicity; on the other hand surfactants and related com-
pounds, such as detergents, emulsifiers and dispersants
are used in most of each textile process and can be an
important contributor to effluent aquatic toxicity, BOD
and foaming.
Fig 2: Coloured Effluent from dyeing process Fig 3: Effluent Discharge
3) Solid waste pollution:
The primary residual wastes generated from the textile
industry are non-hazardous. These include scraps of fab-
ric and yarn, off-specification yarn and fabric and pack-
aging waste. There are also wastes associated with the
storage and production of yarns and textiles, such as
chemical storage drums, cardboard reels for storing fab-
ric and cones used to hold yarns for dyeing and knitting.
Cutting room waste generates a high volume of fabric
scraps, which can often be reduced by increasing fabric
utilization efficiency in cutting and sewing.
4 Noise pollution and machine:
Noise is the environmental pollutant generated by any
industry and spinning and weaving industries has no ex-
ception to this. The workers exposed to industrial noise
of potentially damaging quality and intensity, suffer from
impairment of hearing capacity of several degrees and
other physiological disorders which is shown in the Fig
No. 4 and 5 Prolonged exposure to a noise level of > 90
dB may cause hearing disorders since maximum permis-
sible noise level for 8 hour exposure should be around
96.5 dB [5] As we know the term noise is the unpleasant
sound with varying intensity. The machines are the main
cause for this particular reason, and cannot be under di-
rect control because we cannot keep machine as it is as it
generate the noise and secondly lot of cost is involved on
the machines is very high.
Impact of noise pollution on human beings
Fig 4: Psychological Disorders Fig 5: Hearing Problem
Machine behavior and noise generation: Any machine
while in running is prone to develop the noise and textile
machines have no exception for the same. When we talk
about the noise with respect to machine it is the vibration
generated due to two or more solid surface interface. The
vibrating members alternately push and pull against air
creating noise, off course there are many reasons for gen-
eration of noise and can be summarized as follow,
1) Machine footing and its foundation.
2) Type of mechanism adopted while designing the ma-
chine (no. of mechanical components presented and link-
age mechanism)
TECHNICAL ARTICLE

3) Working speed of machine.
4) Maintenance of machine.
5) Design of other machine parts like blowers, ducts and
pipes etc.
6) Material handling system.
Overview of noise levels in Different departments:
1) Spinning: Because of high spindle speeds reached on
new machines (ring spindles up to 20000 rpm, rotor speed
up to 11000 rpm) spinning mills can generally be assumed
to generate a great noise. Noise levels of 70 to 100 dB are
commonly recorded in workrooms.
2) Weaving and knitting: Although considerable progress
has been made in the weaving sector over the last 20
year, the whole area of noise nuisance and, closely asso-
ciated with it, vibration coming from looms, cause major
problems. Noise levels of 100 to 120 dB must be expected
in weaving rooms, according to the design, type of loom.
Fitting and erection and number looms used, fabric struc-
ture etc. The following table shows the noise levels in vari-
ous departments.
Table 2: Noise level in textile industry (Texturing, spin-
ning and Weaving)
Process Noise level (dB)
Texturizing Plant 95-100
Spinning
1.Ring Frame 80
2.Rotor spinning 84
3.Two for one twister 100-110
4.Weaving 100-120
Today’s machine scenario against conventional one
with respect to noise generation:
All modern machines are far differing than conventional
one with respect to noise generation. The conventional
practice of designing of machines was based on pure me-
chanical concepts rather than combination of mechanical
and electronics, since the development in the electronics
industries was not up to the level that today it is. Today we
are talking about the automated machines purely based
on mechatronics concept and it offers following advan-
tage.
1) Reduction in the mechanical parts and accessories with
electronic base mechanisms.
2) High and efficient accuracy
3) Offers flexibility in the working.
4)Ease of maintenance.
5) Low mechanical complicity.
Also introduction of hydraulics, pneumatics with solenoid
valves and PLC operating system on spinning on weav-
ing machines offers efficient control on various param-
eters like yarn, fabric tension on spinning and weaving
machines, speed control devices, Building mechanism on
speed frame and ring frame as it was traditionally based
on cam and linkage mechanism etc. Shows pronounced
impact on noise reduction. The development in material
handling system also offers positive contribution towards
noise reduction this is especially while handling of plastic
cops during doffing operation similarly beams handling
system in weaving unit with monorail arrangement [6].
The handling of spare parts also shows some good cor-
relation with noise level which involves proper storage of
parts like boxes and bines etc. The following points show
some features of modern machine.
ƒ Sturdy design of machines
ƒ Use of minimum number of linkages
ƒ More focus on mechatronics which relates to mini-
mum number of metallic parts
ƒ Proper design of Jig & fixer shows reduction in vibra-
tion up to 20 dB
ƒ Use of proper bearings and centralized lubrication sys-
tem reduces friction
ƒ Improved metallurgy of metallic parts in other words
use of light weight parts
ƒ Provision of suction systems at various points results
in dust reduction by 30-35%
ƒ Enclosed machine parts minimizes accidental cases by
50%
ƒ Machines are equipped with safety panels and sensors
to sense the abnormalities
Design aspects to control the noise:
Behavior of sound: When designing engineering control
to reduce the noise exposure it is important to have basic
understanding of sound and its impact. Sound is always
produced by change in the speed or force. Basic principle
of sound includes,
1) More noise is produced when great force is used for
longer time than small force with shorter time.
2) Airborne sound is caused by vibration of solid parts or
turbulence in case of fluid.
3) Vibration can produce sound after traveling a great dis-
tance.
4) High frequency sound is more reflective.
5) Low frequency noise is travels through object and
through opening.
6) Audible range of human ear is up to 80-90 dB.[7]
Design and planning: first step in effective noise control is
design and purchase in noise control in mind. Take noise
control in account when designing new facilities renovat-
ing existing buildings. Isolate noisy operations in design
TECHNICAL ARTICLE

ing rooms where fewer employees will be impacted. Use
qualified engineers and architectures to design the work
place and it becomes easier to control techniques before
machine installation and other aspects. Before buying an-
ything ask to the manufacture about the noise and other
technical parameters related to noise generation.
Administrative control: It involves training to the workers
staff about the noise and its consequences also job rota-
tion technique to high level noise area and low level noise
area in order to keep overall noise level constant, since
this control technique is not efficient as there is lacuna in
technological aspects to reduce the noise.
Simple engineering control: These controls should be
evaluated before exploring more complex solution and
this technique involves following aspects,
1) Proper maintenance.
2) Changing operating procedures
3) Replacing operating procedures
4) Applying room treatments
5) Relocating equipment’s
6) Simple machine treatments
7)Using proper machine speed[8]
1) Proper maintenance: It is observed that malfunc-
tioning or improperly maintained parts produces
more noise that well maintained one like,
a. Loosely held bearings and belts.
b. Torn belts
c. Worn gears
d. Imbalanced rotating masses
e. Missing guards or shields
f. Improperly adjusted cams and linkages
It is recommended that a good preventive maintenance
practice should be adopted to reduce the noise level and
also follow scheduled check list for lubrication to reduce
the wear and tear of parts and maintain the same.
2) Operating procedures and equipment replacement
technique: This technique is totally in the hand of admin-
istration where provision of job rotation and purchasing
of new equipment’s or tools is the main priority.
3) Room treatments: One of the basic principles of noise
control is to reduce the reflecting sound, for that use of
absorbent materials in between the departments, modify
the plant construction according to the acoustic principle
and engineering approach.
4) Relocation of equipment: Noise level drops off when
the distance from the noise source is increase.
a. Noisy equipment should be as far as possible from em-
ployees.
b. Do not put noisy parts at corner to avoid noise reflec-
tion.
5) Simple machine treatments: Many simple modifica-
tions in the machine show significant reduction in the
noise level.
a. Reduce the dropping height of parts from bins and
storage tanks
b. Enclose the bin and boxes with rubber base material to
absorb the noise
c. Keep optimum pressure when working with pneumat-
ics and hydraulics
6) Proper operating speed: As we know any increase in
speed will prone to develop more noise so run the ma-
chines with manufacturer recommendation.
a) Enclosures: These are like boxes covered with sound
and heat absorbable coatings simple used to control the
machines parts which are moveable especially in case of
motor panels where both heat and noise generation are
the key parameters to be performed.
b) Shields and barriers: These are sound absorbable
materials which are used to control high frequency noise
they should be placed near to the high frequency source
and they should be as thick as possible.
c) Ducts and pipes: vibrating duct is the common cause
of noise. The source of noise is the fan and is depend on
1) Proper fan size and type
2) Speed of the fan
Generally the backward curved fan produces low level of
noise than forward curve due to the low air turbulence
also some other considerations are required to be taken
like acoustic linings in the ducts to observe the sound,
pressure balance in ducts to maintain the steady condi-
tions during martial transportation.
Conclusion:
Reduction in the noise is important and above all a de-
manding task. Today the machine manufactures have at-
tempted serval techniques to keep the noise emission as
low as possible but, what would have been achieved in
lowering down the noise level has been cancelled out by
the continuous increase in the speed. We must practice
sophisticated engineering and quantitative management
techniques like Total Productive Maintenance to control
noise and other pollutions with respect to machines and
material handling practices.
References:
1. Chavan R.B, Indian textile industry –Environmental issues, Indian
Journal of fiber and textile research, Vol.26 March-June 2001,
pp. 11-21.
2. Lal R.A, NCUTE Extension Programs on Environmental Problems
in chemical Processing of Textiles, KCT, Coimbatore. 2005 Das
Subrta and GhoshAnlndya, Some Ecological Hazards inTextile
Industry, International Conference on Emerging Trends In Poly-
mers and Textiles, January 2005.
3. Slater Keith, Textiles and the environment, Handbook of Techni-
cal textiles, School of engineering, University of Guelph Canada,
TECHNICAL ARTICLE

pp. 530-542
4. Kane.C.D, Environmental and health hazards in spinning industry
and their control, Indian Journal of fiber and textile research,
Vol.26 March-June 2001, pp.39-43.
5. Talukdar.M.K“Noise Pollution and its control in textile industry”
Indian Journal of fiber and textile research, vol.no-26, March-
June,pp.44-49
6. ShastreeN.K, Environmental Resource Management, Noise Pol-
lution Standard’s and control, Anmol Publications Pvt .Ltd,
pp.170-182.
Dr. V.D Gotmare
Associate Professor & Head,
extile Manufactures Department,
V. J. T. I., Mumbai
Texprocil Celebrates The Achievement Of Its Member Exporters At The
Annual Awards Presentation
The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council popularly
known as TEXPROCIL celebrated the achievement of its
member exporters at a glittering Awards function The
Hon’ble Minister of Textiles and Information & Broad-
casting, Smt Smriti Zubin Irani was unable to come to the
event but in a gracious video message to the industry she
complimented the award winners to keep up the good
work in the sector. In the Minister’s absence, the Textiles
Commissioner, Dr Kavita Gupta graciously accepted to be
the Chief Guest at the function.
The event was inaugurated with lighting of traditional
lamp by Dr. Kavita Gupta Textiles Commissioner along
with the Chairman of Texprocil Shri Ujwal Lahoti and the
Vice Chairman, Dr. K V Srinivasan.
Shri Ujwal Lahoti, Chairman, Texprocil in his opening re-
marks congratulated all the award winners for facing the
challenges of a slow global demand and intense price
pressures to emerge leaders in their respective line of
businesses during the year 2016-17.
In his speech, the Chairman complimented the Hon’ble
Minister of Textiles and Information & Broadcasting, Smt.
Smriti Zubin Irani for her untiring efforts in conducting ex-
tensive consultations with all the stake holders from time
to time to understand the issues faced by the textiles in-
dustry. He said that she was instrumental in the inclusion
of Made ups under the ROSL Scheme which was originally
introduced to cover only Readymade Garments and also
thanked her for keeping the entire cotton textiles sector
at the GST rate of 5% and for reducing the GST rate on job
work in the textile sector to 5%.
Shri Lahoti mentioned that the Government recently in-
creased the ROSL rate for cotton Made ups from 1.55%
to 2.20% and also the entitlement of the duty credit scrips
on export of Made ups from 2% to 4% under the MEIS.
These measures will enable Made ups exporters to par-
tially overcome the disadvantage which they are facing in
leading markets like the EU and the US as compared to
products from some of the competing nations which en-
joy zero duty access, he added.
He also said that the GST will certainly lead to growth of
the textile sector in the days to come by improving the
competitiveness of the textiles sector by bringing down
costs which is the primary objective of this landmark in-
direct taxation regime. However he added that delays in
GST refunds are leading to serious working capital and fi-
nancial problems for many of the textiles units in addition
to the procedural & compliance issues faced by them.
Shri Lahoti stated that Cotton Yarn was one single prod-
uct for which there were no benefits under the Foreign
Trade Policy 2015-20. He urged the government to include
Cotton yarn under the MEIS and 3% Interest Equalization
Scheme. He said that it will give the necessary boost to
the Cotton spinning sector and ensure its survival and
sustenance.
Concluding his speech, the Chairman also urged the gov-
ernment to get fabrics included under the ROSL scheme
and also to increase the MEIS from 2% to 4% rate at par
with Made ups as the weaving sector is labour intensive
and can create additional employment opportunities.
In her address to the textile industry, the Chief Guest at
the function Dr Kavita Gupta lauded the efforts and per-
formance of the exporters as well as the winners of the
prestigious Texprocil Awards.
She encouraged the industry to align their growth with
Dr. Siddhartha Rajagopal, Executive Director – TEXPROCIL, Shri
Ujwal Lahoti, Chairman –TEXPROCIL, Dr. Kavita GuptaDr K V
Srinivasan, Vice Chairman – TEXPROCIL
TECHNICAL ARTICLE
EVENT REPORT

more innovation as it was the key to increase exports.
She stressed the fact that the industry should focus on
technical textiles as it still remained a vastly unexplored
segment in the textile sector. She added that the govern-
ment’s support through various schemes like the recent
increase in MEIS should spur the industry to spiral to-
wards healthy growth.
Dr Gupta also mentioned that India should occupy the
relative space that is being vacated by China as that is one
opportunity that India should not let go. She mentioned
that along with exports the industry should also look at
signing MoUs with intra segments like the signing of MoU
between PDEXCIL and CMAI in the Textiles India Show
held at Gandhinagar in July 2017, where fabrics from the
power loom sector will be used for making garments by
the CMAI members.
She concluded by saying that the government is always
there to back and support the industry but it finally de-
pends on each company within the industry to grow by
supporting each other thereby scaling greater heights in
the exports sector.
Cabinet approves “Scheme for Capacity Building in Textiles Sector (SCBTS)
The Cabinet Committee on Economic Affairs, chaired by
the Prime Minister Shri Narendra Modi has given its ap-
proval for a new skill development scheme covering the
entire value chain of the textile sector excluding Spin-
ning & Weaving in organized Sector, titled “Scheme for
Capacity Building in Textile Sector (SCBTS)” from 2017-18
to 2019-20 with an outlay of Rs. 1300 crore. The scheme
will have National Skill Qualification Framework (NSQF)
compliant training courses with funding norms as per the
Common Norms notified by Ministry of Skill Development
and Entrepreneurship (MSDE).
The objectives of the scheme are to provide demand
driven, placement oriented skilling programme to incen-
tivize the efforts of the industry in creating jobs in the
organized textile and related sectors; to promote skilling
and skill up-gradation in the traditional sectors through
respective Sectoral Divisions/organizations of Ministry of
Textiles; and to provide livelihood to all sections of the
society across the country.
The skilling programmes would be implemented
through:
i. Textile Industry /Units in order to meet the in-house
requirement of manpower;
ii. Reputed training institutions relevant to textile sector
having placement tie-ups with textile industry/ units; and
iii.Institutions of Ministry of Textiles /State Governments
having placement tie-ups with textile industry/units.
The scheme will broadly adopt the following strategy:
(a) Job role wise skilling targets will be based on skill
gap identified for various levels i.e. Entry level courses,
Up-skilling/ Re-skilling (supervisor, managerial training,
advanced courses for adapting technology etc.), Recogni-
tion of Prior Learning (RPL), Training of Trainers, Entre-
preneurship Development.
(b) Segment Wise/ Job role wise requirement of skill
needs will be assessed from time to time in consultation
with the industry.
(c) Web-based monitoring will be adopted for steering
every aspect of implementation of the programme.
(d) Skilling requirement in the traditional sectors such as
handlooms, handicrafts, jute, silk etc. will be considered
as special projects through respective Sectoral Divisions/
organizations. Skill upgradation will be supported further
for entrepreneurial development through provision of
MUDRA loans.
(e) With a view to make outcomes measurable, successful
trainees will be assessed and certified by an accredited
Assessment Agency.
(f) Atleast 70% of the certified trainees are to be placed
in the wage employment. Post Placement tracking will be
mandatory under the scheme.
(g) Acknowledging the high levels of employment of wom-
en in the sector post training, all partner institutions will
be required to comply with the guidelines regarding In-
ternal Complaints Committee to be constituted under the
Sexual Harassment of Women at Workplace (Prevention,
Prohibition & Redressal) Act, 2013 to become eligible for
funding under the scheme.
The scheme will be implemented for the benefit of all
sections of the society across the country including rural,
remote, LWE affected, North East, J&K by imparting skills
in the identified job roles. Preference will be given to vari-
ous social groups, SC, ST, differently abled, minorities and
other vulnerable groups. Under previous scheme of skill
development implemented by the Ministry of Textiles in
the XII Plan period, more than 10 lakh people have been
trained of which more than 70% were women. Consid-
ering that the apparel industry, a major segment to be
covered under the scheme, employs majorly women
(about 70%), the trend is likely to be continued in the new
scheme.
10 lakh people are expected to be skilled and certified in
various segments of Textile Sector through the scheme,
out of which 1 lakh will be in traditional sectors.
EVENT REPORT
GOVT NEWS

Liva Protégé is a unique talent hunt competition which
gives young fashion designers an opportunity to show-
case their talent. The talent hunt attracts entries from
numerous fashion design institutes from India. The par-
ticipants are shortlisted based in their designing capabili-
ties before getting assigned to a mentor. This year, the
scope of the competition got bigger as the Liva Protégé
2017 winners will launch their collections exclusively on
The Designer Boutique at Amazon.in and enjoy an easy
access to millions of nationwide customers. The third edi-
tion of Liva Protégé received over 3,000 applications from
across 190 institutes.
Mr. Dilip Gaur, Business Director, Pulp and Fiber Busi-
ness, Aditya Birla Group and Managing Director Grasim
Industries said, In line with the Aditya Birla Group’s phi-
losophy of nurturing and promoting young talent, we
embarked on the Liva Protégé initiative. The vision was
to have young designers sculpt their designs in manifold
ways for Liva and also provide them a launch platform
for their future enterprise. I believe that designers bring
creative thoughts into action, which is a key differentiator
in the Textile value chain and therefore critical to success
of the Indian industry on global platform”
Over 190 institutes participated in the 3rd edition of Liva
Protégé Talent Hunt which had entries from across 50 cit-
ies with over 3000 students applying for the competition.
In addition to the major metros, this year the hunt had
participation from tier II cities like Ambala, Ludhiana, Kan-
pur amongst others. There were two rounds of short-list-
ing the candidates. The students were divided in 6 zones
and were allotted an ace designer as a mentor. Nida
Mahmood for Delhi, Pallavi Singhee for Kolkata, Anand
Kabra for Hyderabad, Anshu Arora Sen for Bengaluru, Pri-
yadarshini Rao for Mumbai & Purvi Doshi for Ahmedabad
nurtured these finalists for the grand finale.
Selection process: LIVA Protégé is a platform where as-
pirants have been chosen on designing capabilities.
There have had multiple rounds of selection across three
months long intensive program (inclusive of one on one
presentations to mentors, and then selection to be based
on aesthetics, design, fluidity and functionality of crea-
tions) post which the aspirants got a chance to brush up
on their skills and be mentored by some of the biggest
names in the fashion industry.
The young designers had showcased 5 evening ensembles
designed by them at the finals who were judged by the
eminent jury comprising of Bollywood’s fashionista and
Miss India International 2007 Esha Gupta, sustainability
and social change advocate Parveen Dusanj and Naren-
dra Kumar Ahmed (Nari), Creative Head Amazon Fashion.
The top finalists, this edition, were from IINIFD Pune, NIFT
Mumbai, Pearl, GIFT Kolkata, WLCI College Kolkata, INIFD
Chennai, Hamstech, Hyderabad & NID, Gandhinagar.
At a glittering ceremony held in Mumbai today Abhishek
Tibrewal from Pearl Academy, New Delhi won the pres-
tigious Liva Protégé 2017, Sonika Pulluru from Hamstech
Hyderabad and Dibyani Mishra from GIFT Kolkata were
the 1st and 2nd runners respectively.
Mr. Rajeev Gopal, Chief Marketing Office, Pulp and Fiber
Business, Aditya Birla Group, “The third edition of Liva
Protégé has had a record participation and has grown
to become a much sought out competition in the short
duration with fashion institutes and students.” He in-
formed, “This year’s highlight is our exclusive association
with Amazon Fashion that will enable these designers to
launch their winning Liva Protégé collections on Amazon.
in, thereby giving them a unique opportunity to build and
market their brands”.
Commenting on the tie-up with Live Protégé, Arun Sird-
eshmukh, Business – Head, Amazon Fashion said, “We re-
main strongly invested in creating the right infrastructure
to help create position and highlight designers/brands
to Indian customers. By giving this exposure to the Liva
Protégé 2017 winners, Amazon will not only allow them
accelerate their career growth but also give them an op-
portunity to focus on their inherent talent and build na-
tional brands. As part of The Designer Boutique at Ama-
zon.in, we want to identify young designers and give them
an opportunity to reach millions of our customers, and
in turn help us democratize designer wear and make the
segment more affordable in India”.
Abhishek Tibrewal wins Liva Protégé 2017 and a cash
prize of Rs. 2 Lacs
y 1st Runner up is Sonika Pulluru and Dibyani Mishra is the 2nd runners up
y Third edition of Liva Protégé, a Unique Talent Hunt competition for India’s Young Amateur Designer
y Liva Protégé ties up exclusively with Amazon Fashion, launches 2017 winners on The Designer Boutique at Amazon.in
BRAND UPDATE

Beaulieu Yarns awarded prestigious FM Global “Highly
Protected Risk” (HPR) status for French production site
y HPR is the highest status a plant can achieve for fire
risk prevention and protection
y The site Ideal Fibres & Fabrics Comines is the second in
the Beaulieu International Group to reach HPR status
y Underlines Group’s commitment to risk prevention at
B.I.G. sites & to reinforcing our strong business contin-
gency plan
Beaulieu Yarns, the global supplier of high-quality poly-
amide and polypropylene yarns, is pleased to announce
the achievement of Highly Protected Risk (HPR) status for
its French production site, Ideal Fibres & Fabrics Comines.
Awarded by FM Global, HPR designation means a facility
meets the highest industry standards for property protec-
tion.
FM Global, Beaulieu International Group’s (B.I.G.) indus-
trial property and business interruption insurer for the
past two years, offers a unique concept that supports the
Group in reducing its exposure to loss and increases its
business resilience. A dedicated worldwide team of engi-
neers focuses on providing assistance and protection of
its assets, helping the Group to achieve a higher level of
risk protection.
The Ideal Fibres & Fabrics Comines site produces high
quality yarns for a large variety of application and mar-
ket segments includingthe automotive industry. It scored
exceptionally well in its FM Global assessment which
focused on aspects including fire protection, protection
against natural hazard, mechanical breakdown of ma-
chinery and also cyber risks.
Its overall risk mark of 76 ranks it within the top 25% of its
industry for fire risk prevention and protection.
Commenting on the Award, Emmanuel Colchen, Glob-
al Sales Director Yarns within BU Beaulieu Engineered
Products, said: “This HPR yarn production site reinforces
strongly our supply chain security and demonstrates our
engagement towards our customers and partners. Our
contingency planning and risk management are essential,
well-considered elements within our long-term business
strategy to demanding sectors such as Automotive and
Commercial & Residential floor covering contracts.”
Ideal Fibres & Fabrics Comines is the second facility in the
Group to attain HPR status, and the very first in Europe.
Pinnacle Polymers LLC in the USA also achieved the HPR
as a chemical plant, which is a rare achievement within
the chemical business. Fire risk prevention is part of the
Group’s broader risk management activities. B.I.G. is in-
vesting in increasing the level of protection at all B.I.G.
plants in order to protect its business continuity.
The divisions of B.I.G. are also implementing a number
of safety programmes to raise awareness of workplace
safety and to maintain strong safety records.
Karena Cancilleri, Vice President BU Beaulieu Engineered
Products, commented: “I am proud of Beaulieu Yarns for
achieving the highly-regarded FM Global HPR Award and
setting an example for the whole Beaulieu International
Group. This positive step reflects the strong commitment
of the Engineered Products division and the rest of the
Group to improving safety and protecting our workplaces
and our production facilities.”
Beaulieu Yarns received the HPR Award at a ceremony on
November 7, 2017 attended by all staff, and representa-
tives of B.I.G. Management, Beaulieu Yarns Management
and FM Global Management.
Representatives of FM Global Management and Ideal Fibres & Fabrics
Project Team at the Award ceremony on November 7, 2017.
Erwin De Deyn, Chief Legal Officer
and Vice President at Beaulieu
International Group, accepting the
Award on behalf of Beaulieu Yarns
Beaulieu Yarns received the Highly
Protected Risk (HPR) Award at a
ceremony on November 7, 2017
attended by all staff, and repre-
sentatives of B.I.G. Management,
Beaulieu Yarns Management and
FM Global Management.
BRAND UPDATE

BIBA Apparels Private Limited better known as BIBA is a
brand that brings fashion closer to every corner of the
society at affordable rates. BIBA is more of a people’s
brand and has over time gained extreme prominence and
love from the women, who adorn and look fashionable
in BIBA. The brand has been dressing and embellishing
women modestly and stylishly, from every corner of India
since 1986.
In 1983 Meena Bindra chose to rejoice the spirit of ‘Biba’,
the Punjabi endearment for pretty women, by designing
clothes from her house in Mumbai. She had a modest
start, what began as designing clothes for some pocket
money, slowly began to grow and gain popularity. She
had never dreamt of becoming a businesswoman and
that too someone who would someday lead a company
from the front.
As a 39-year-old housewife and mother of two, she
turned her boredom into creative venture and made it
to real business with an initial investment of just Rs.8,000
taken as loan from the bank 33 years ago. She pioneered
the salwar-kurta revolution in the country and united the
women from the North to the South changing their dress-
ing styles. The ‘Punjabi suit’, as it used to be called, be-
came an important part of every woman’s wardrobe.
From Patiala salwars to Haryanvi kurta with pockets, Hy-
derabadi pyjamas, which are today’s palazzo pants; the
Bhopali kurtas with pleats in the front, the Peshwa cos-
tumes with stitched yoke in the centre and cuffed sleeves;
the battis kali (32 pleats) on mulmul for summers are all
designs Meena introduced women to from the start. Mee-
na has been creating beauty with her fabric, prints and
designs. “
She started at a time when readymade churidar-kurtas
were unheard of and sourcing of the fabric was not easy.
There were no malls, and brands, and surely no fixed
styles and rules. Her original creations gave her the first-
mover advantage. What began with designing and selling
to family and friends, slowly took over the shape of some-
thing big and commercial in no time.
Being Delhi-bred, she could make and sell an outfit she
knew thoroughly. The success of the first sale led to the
next and there was no looking back.
Traditional crafts like hand block printing with vegetable
dyes and exquisite embroideries seperates and puts BIBA
ahead of the league. Each garment is a work of art. BIBA is
a story that needs to be told and much as the saying goes
that every good brand has a motivating story behind it.
BIBA is one such story.
BIBA was launched as a brand in 1988 and from whole-
saling the brand to traditional retailers; it launched its
first exclusive store at Inorbit Mall in Mumbai in the early
nineties. Today, BIBA has a presence across 76 Indian cit-
ies with 192 exclusive brand outlets and over 250 multi-
brand outlets. BIBA was one of the first few brands to use
the shop-in-shop model with Shoppers Stop, LifeStyle
and Pantaloons. The annual turnover of Biba Apparels is
estimated at Rs.600 crores today.
BIBA pioneered Bollywood merchandising in India in 2004
with Na Tum Jano Na Hum and also provided costumes
for blockbusters including Devdas, Hulchul, Baghban. In
2002, it replicated designer costumes from four movies
Taal, Yaadein, Pardes and Badhai Ho Badhai to tap the
movie memorabilia market.In Salman Khan’s latest mov-
ie, Bajrangi Bhaijan, Kareena Kapoor is seen wearing BIBA
outfits.
BIBA won the Best Women’s Ethnic Wear Brand of the
Year at the CMAI Apex Awards in 2015. In 2012 it also
won the Images Award for Most Admired Women’s Indian
wear Brand of the Year. BIBA today boasts of a pan-india
presence and caters to women in all age groups, who
have a different nose and liking for Ethnic wear.
Time and again BIBA has also gone for tie-ups and have
come out with designer collections in collaboration with
stalwarts in the trade like Manish Arora, Rohit Bal etc.
Decent pricing, widespread presence and availability in
online stores makes BIBA an accessible brand. But even
though they reach out every woman, they do not shift
away from their brand philosophy of making fashion af-
fordable. And this is how they win hearts!
BIBA Apparels; journey from Hobby to MBO’s...
BRAND UPDATE

One of the pioneers of USTER®STATISTICS tells the
story of origins and development
This year USTER®STATISTICS celebrates its 60th an-
niversary – so it is fitting to review the origins of this
world-renowned textile bench marking tool. And what
better way than to hear the stor y first hand from some-
one who was closely involved right from the start?
PeterHättenschwiler,who devoted his entire working life
to USTER,reveals the facts behind the remarkable suc-
cess of a concept which was never actually intended to
become quite so ‘famous’.
Peter Hättenschwiler celebrated his 90th birthday on Sep-
tember 26. He was born in St. Gallen (Switzerland), a city
dubbed the ‘lace capital’. Demand for lace and embroi-
dery fluctuated during the 20th Century, but the indus-
try was badly hit by the after-effects of the First World
War and then by global economic crisis of the late 1920s.
Fashion trends were also turning away from the decora-
tive look at this time. Hättenschwiler’s father was among
many who lost their jobs in the downturn, and the family
moved to Wald, in the Zurich highlands, where compa-
nies in other textile sectors were still prospering.
Even so, university
was still not an option
for Hättenschwiler.
Instead, he started
work as an appren-
tice in the precision
engineering depart-
ment of Zellweger
Uster, a well-estab-
lished and sizeable
company which had
a good reputation as
a breeding ground for mechanics. Located in the nearby
city of Uster, the company was then producing a range of
textile machines for domestic and export markets. World
War Two saw the collapse of the export business, and
Zellweger Uster began to diversify into other product ar-
eas, including coffee refiners, electric cheese grinders and
radio equipment.
The step forward into new technology in the emerging
field of electronics was a logical advance from the radio
expertise, boosted by the availability of a new generation
of well-educated engineers as businesses shifted their fo-
cus from wartime defense-oriented activities. Zellweger
took advantage of the trend by growing as a technology
enterprise, with an extensive portfolio of product inven-
tions and patents.
Cornerstone of USTER®STATISTICS
One such innovation began when Hans Locher – a young
radio operator officer and engineer with experience in
wireless signaling – was inspired by the idea of develop-
ing a machine to measure yarn evenness. Peter Hätten-
schwiler was his assistant at Zellweger. Local spinners
provided the impetus, with their request to have measur-
able data on the evenness of their yarns – and on those
of their competitors. They saw this as an aid to accurate
pricing, improved quality and forecasting the ‘weavability’
of material made from their yarns.
The first evenness tester was based on a radio field, with
a sender and a receiver. The yarn was passed through
this field, and any defect would cause a disturbance in
transmission. This enabled thick and thin places in yarns
to be measured by an electronic signal and illustrated by
a line showing deflections.
This ability to visualize yarn evenness was a big success,
but the next step was even more important: to describe
yarn evenness objectively in figures. For this, Zellweger
applied the principles of the planimeter, used by archi-
tects to calculate floorplan dimensions, to work out the
space between deflection lines. This was the foundation
for the original USTER®STANDARDS, published in 1957.
Values and benchmarks
Hans Locher collected a large number of textile samples,
from Switzerland and from abroad. Along with Hätten-
schwiler and a lab assistant, he measured these in the
textile laboratory and developed quality standards. These
standards have since become recognized by official na-
tional and international organizations for standardiza-
tion. “Hans Locher received a doctorate of technical sci-
enceshonoraris causa from the ETH Zurich for this work,
as well as for other achievements. With these standards
it was possible to determine the quality of a textile cross-
section on a global scale for the first time,” recalls Hät-
tenschwiler.
The textile industry was impressed when the first of these
reference values were published over three pages of the
Melliand textile magazine 60 years ago, and soon began
to ask for more like silk and bast fibers. The extended
standards were given the name USTER®STATISTICS.
Over the years, the demand for yarn reference values
increased with every new kind of yarn being developed,
with the growth of man-made fiber types such as poly-
amid and viscose becoming very popular. Zellweger Uster
continued to collect yarn quality values worldwide and
the mass of data available was continuously increasing.
“Of course a lot of manpower was needed to elaborate
the USTER®STATISTICS, but the spinners and also the
Evolution of a unique invention for textile quality
BRAND UPDATE

December 2017 web issue

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December 2017 web issue