The document discusses different types of fundamental fabric weaves and their derivatives. It describes the key parameters that define weaves like plain, twill, sateen, and how weaves are constructed. Some key weave derivatives discussed include reinforced twills, compound twills, diagonal twills, and shaded twills. Each weave type is constructed based on basic weaves but with additional overlaps or shifts to create different fabric structures and properties.

1. CHAPTERCHAPTER
THREE:THREE:
FABRIC DESIGNFABRIC DESIGN

3. 3.1 Fundamental3.1 Fundamental
WeavesWeaves Weft or warp threads must have onlyWeft or warp threads must have only
one warp or weft overlapping within theone warp or weft overlapping within the
repeat.repeat.
 The number of warp threads in aThe number of warp threads in a
repeat must be equal to the numberrepeat must be equal to the number
threads.threads.
 There are 3 kinds of fundamentalThere are 3 kinds of fundamental
weaves:weaves:
 PlainPlain
 TwillTwill
 SateenSateen
 Each weave is determined by 2Each weave is determined by 2
parameters:parameters:
 The repeat, R of weave.The repeat, R of weave.
 The shift, S of overlapping eitherThe shift, S of overlapping either
vertical shift, Svertical shift, Sxx or Horizontal shift,or Horizontal shift,
SSyy

4. 3.1.2 Plain Weave3.1.2 Plain Weave
 The simplest weave whereThe simplest weave where
the threads interlace inthe threads interlace in
alternate order and classifiedalternate order and classified
as balanced and unbalanced.as balanced and unbalanced.
 In trade, such terms as tabby,In trade, such terms as tabby,
calico, batiste are applied tocalico, batiste are applied to
plain weave fabrics.plain weave fabrics.

5. 3.1.3 Twill Weaves3.1.3 Twill Weaves
 The twill order ofThe twill order of
interlacing producesinterlacing produces
diagonal lines on thediagonal lines on the
cloth.cloth.
 The purpose is to makeThe purpose is to make
cloth havier, closercloth havier, closer
setting and bettersetting and better
drapping.drapping.
 The parameters: R ≥ 3The parameters: R ≥ 3
SSxx = S= Syy == ++ 11

6. 3.1.4 Regular Sateen and3.1.4 Regular Sateen and
Satin and Irregular SateenSatin and Irregular Sateen
WeavesWeaves
3.1.4.1 Sateen Weaves3.1.4.1 Sateen Weaves
 In pure sateen weaves the surface ofIn pure sateen weaves the surface of
the cloth consists almost entirely ofthe cloth consists almost entirely of
weft floats.weft floats.
 The parameters of sateen weaves: RThe parameters of sateen weaves: R
≥ 5; 1 < S < (R – 1)≥ 5; 1 < S < (R – 1)
 For regular sateen the shift (S) andFor regular sateen the shift (S) and
repeat (R) must be expressed byrepeat (R) must be expressed by
prime numbers, it’s called weft faceprime numbers, it’s called weft face
fabric.fabric.
 The sateen weave is denoted by aThe sateen weave is denoted by a
fraction and the numerator of thisfraction and the numerator of this
fraction is equal to the repeat offraction is equal to the repeat of
weave.weave.
 The denominator is equal to the shiftThe denominator is equal to the shift
(S(Syy) of overlaps.) of overlaps.

7. 3.1.4.2 Satin (Warp Face Fabric)3.1.4.2 Satin (Warp Face Fabric)
 Usually constructedUsually constructed
using the verticalusing the vertical
shift (Sshift (Sxx).).
 Satin has the warpSatin has the warp
effect, and theeffect, and the
density of warp isdensity of warp is
much higher thanmuch higher than
the density of weft.the density of weft.
Sx=3

8. 3.1.4.3 Irregular3.1.4.3 Irregular
SateenSateen
 Regular sateen cannot be constructedRegular sateen cannot be constructed
with a repeat of four or six threads,with a repeat of four or six threads,
because the repeat and shift cannot bebecause the repeat and shift cannot be
expressed by mutually prime numbers.expressed by mutually prime numbers.
 It is impossible to construct the regularIt is impossible to construct the regular
sateen if R = 6, because among thesateen if R = 6, because among the
possible values of shift found from thepossible values of shift found from the
formula 1 < S < (R - 1), i.e. 1 < S < 5,formula 1 < S < (R - 1), i.e. 1 < S < 5,
the number 2, 3, 4 have a commonthe number 2, 3, 4 have a common
divisor with 6.divisor with 6.
 In this case, we cannot choose aIn this case, we cannot choose a
constant shift, but the sateen with aconstant shift, but the sateen with a
variable shift can be constructed.variable shift can be constructed.
 This sateen is called irregular sateen.This sateen is called irregular sateen.
 4-shaft irregular sateen can be4-shaft irregular sateen can be
constructed by using the shifts 1, 2, 3, 2constructed by using the shifts 1, 2, 3, 2
as shown aside.as shown aside.
 6-shaft irregular sateen with constructed6-shaft irregular sateen with constructed
shifts 2, 3, 4, 4, 3, 2 as shown aside.shifts 2, 3, 4, 4, 3, 2 as shown aside.

10. 3.2 Derivatives of3.2 Derivatives of
Fundamental WeavesFundamental Weaves
““Constructed by means of deriving fromConstructed by means of deriving from
plain, twill and sateen weaves, and retainplain, twill and sateen weaves, and retain
their structural features”their structural features”

11. 3.2.1 Plain Weave3.2.1 Plain Weave
DerivativesDerivatives
 This group of structure comprises variousThis group of structure comprises various
simple weave which are varieties of thesimple weave which are varieties of the
plain weave and can be produced on twoplain weave and can be produced on two
heald shafts.heald shafts.
 Warp Rep Weaves:Warp Rep Weaves:
 Denoted by a fraction.Denoted by a fraction.
 The numerator shows theThe numerator shows the
number of warp overlappingnumber of warp overlapping
and the denominator, theand the denominator, the
number of weft overlappingnumber of weft overlapping
on the same thread withinon the same thread within
repeat.repeat.
 Extending the plain weaveExtending the plain weave
vertically.vertically.

12.  Weft Rep Weave:Weft Rep Weave:
 Opposite to warp repOpposite to warp rep
weave.weave.
 Extending the plainExtending the plain
weave horizontally.weave horizontally.
 Denoted by a fraction.Denoted by a fraction.
 Sum of the fractionSum of the fraction
numerator andnumerator and
 denominator equal to thedenominator equal to the
warp repeat.warp repeat.

13. Rug from Rep Weave:Rug from Rep Weave:

14.  Hopsack Weaves:Hopsack Weaves:
 Constructed by extending theConstructed by extending the
plain weave both vertically andplain weave both vertically and
horizontally.horizontally.
 There are 2 or more warp threadsThere are 2 or more warp threads
working in the same manner andworking in the same manner and
2 or more weft threads grouped2 or more weft threads grouped
in the same shed.in the same shed.
 It’s denoted by a fraction, theIt’s denoted by a fraction, the
numerator is the number of warpnumerator is the number of warp
overlapping, and the denominatoroverlapping, and the denominator
is that of weft overlapping onis that of weft overlapping on
each thread.each thread.
 The sum of the numerator andThe sum of the numerator and
denominator shows the repeat ondenominator shows the repeat on
warp and weft.warp and weft.

16. Fabric from Hopsack
Weave:

17. Fabric from Hopsack
Weave:

18. 3.2.2 Weaves Constructed on Twill3.2.2 Weaves Constructed on Twill
BasesBases
 Regular twill are often used as the basesRegular twill are often used as the bases
for the construction of new weaves.for the construction of new weaves.
 Reinforced Twills:Reinforced Twills:
 Warp overlaps are added to theWarp overlaps are added to the
single warp overlaps of the basicsingle warp overlaps of the basic
weft-face twill.weft-face twill.
 The simplest reinforced twill isThe simplest reinforced twill is
twill 2/2 (widely used).twill 2/2 (widely used).
 In producing this twill the sameIn producing this twill the same
four shafts can be used forfour shafts can be used for
making the selvedges on themaking the selvedges on the
warp rep weave (necessary towarp rep weave (necessary to
coordinate the operation ofcoordinate the operation of
shedding and pickingshedding and picking
mechanisms).mechanisms).
 Retain the property of theRetain the property of the
original twill.original twill.

19. Reinforced twill 2/2 (left hand
twill, Sy = -1)

20.  Compound Twill:Compound Twill:
 It is obtained in parallelIt is obtained in parallel
construction of two or moreconstruction of two or more
twill weaves on the sametwill weaves on the same
area.area.
 The number of shafts forThe number of shafts for
producing compound twill isproducing compound twill is
equal to its repeat.equal to its repeat.
 Retain the property of theRetain the property of the
original twill.original twill.

21. Fabric from compound twill:

22.  Angled Twill:Angled Twill:
 Constructed by changing the sign of shift from plus toConstructed by changing the sign of shift from plus to
minus, after an assigned number of threads.minus, after an assigned number of threads.
 With the change of sign, the direction of twill diagonal is alsoWith the change of sign, the direction of twill diagonal is also
changed.changed.
 To construct:To construct:
i. Calculate its repeati. Calculate its repeat
ii. Weft repeat = Repeat of basic twillii. Weft repeat = Repeat of basic twill
iii. Warp repeat can be determined by the formula,iii. Warp repeat can be determined by the formula, RRxx = 2K= 2Kxx - 2- 2
RRxx = repeat of warp= repeat of warp
KKxx = number of warp threads after the sign of shift= number of warp threads after the sign of shift
changes.changes.
RRybyb = repeat of the basic twill= repeat of the basic twill
KKyy = no of weft threads after the sign of shit changes= no of weft threads after the sign of shit changes

23.  Example:Example:
Construct the angled twill on the basis ofConstruct the angled twill on the basis of
twill 2/4. The repeat of basis twill is 6.twill 2/4. The repeat of basis twill is 6.
Answer:Answer:
RRyy = R= Rybyb = 6= 6
RRxx = 2K= 2Kxx – 2 = 2 (6) – 2 = 10– 2 = 2 (6) – 2 = 10

24.  Diagonal Twill:Diagonal Twill:
 Construct the basic twill with an increased vertical shiftConstruct the basic twill with an increased vertical shift
(to increase the inclination angle of the diagonal(to increase the inclination angle of the diagonal
changes).changes).
 The increase of the shift from one to two is equivalent toThe increase of the shift from one to two is equivalent to
the doubling of warp density (practically the shift can bethe doubling of warp density (practically the shift can be
accepted equal to two or three).accepted equal to two or three).
 Can be constructed into 2 cases:Can be constructed into 2 cases:
i. The repeat of basic twill can be divided by thei. The repeat of basic twill can be divided by the
increased shift.increased shift.
Warp repeat, RWarp repeat, Rxx = R ÷ S= R ÷ Soo
Weft repeat, RWeft repeat, Ryy = R= R
ii. The repeat of the basic twill cannot be divided by theii. The repeat of the basic twill cannot be divided by the
increased shift.increased shift.

25.  Example 1:Example 1:
Construct a diagonal weave on the basisConstruct a diagonal weave on the basis
of twillof twill 4 . 4 . 14 . 4 . 1 , if S, if Sxx = 2.= 2.
1 . 2 . 21 . 2 . 2
Answer:Answer:
Warp repeat;Warp repeat;
RRxx = R ÷ S= R ÷ Sxx R = 14R = 14
= 14 ÷ 2= 14 ÷ 2 SSxx = 2= 2
= 7= 7
Weft repeat;Weft repeat;
RRyy = R= R
= 14= 14
 First warp constructed accordingFirst warp constructed according
the basic twill.the basic twill.
 Second warp constructedSecond warp constructed
according to the same formula butaccording to the same formula but
the shift equal to two, and so on.the shift equal to two, and so on.
 If the repeat of the basis twill is nitIf the repeat of the basis twill is nit
divided by the increased shift thedivided by the increased shift the
diagonal weave will havediagonal weave will have repeatrepeat RRxx
= R= R = R.= R.

26.  Example 2:Example 2:
Construct a diagonal weave on the basisConstruct a diagonal weave on the basis
of twillof twill 5 . 1 . 15 . 1 . 1 , if S, if Sxx = 2= 2
1 . 2 . 11 . 2 . 1
Answer:Answer:
In this case, RIn this case, Rxx = 11= 11
and Rand Ryy = 11= 11

27. Fabric from diagonal twill:

28.  Shaded Twill:Shaded Twill:
Represent a gradual transition from twillRepresent a gradual transition from twill
with weft effect to the twill with warp effectwith weft effect to the twill with warp effect
and vice-versa.and vice-versa.
Mostly used Jacquard weaving for large-Mostly used Jacquard weaving for large-
pattern fabrics.pattern fabrics.
The repeat on warp and weft for theThe repeat on warp and weft for the
shaded twill is determined by the formula;shaded twill is determined by the formula;
Warp repeat, RWarp repeat, Rxx = R= Rxbxb (R(Rxbxb – 1)– 1)
Weft repeat, RWeft repeat, Ryy = R= Rybyb
Only straight draft is used.Only straight draft is used.

29.  Example:Example:
Construct a shaded twill weave on the transitions of shaded twillConstruct a shaded twill weave on the transitions of shaded twill 11 toto
44 ..
4 14 1
Answer:Answer:
RRxx = R= Rxbxb (R(Rxbxb – 1)– 1)
= 5 (5 -1)= 5 (5 -1)
= 5 X 4= 5 X 4
= 20= 20
RRyy = R= Rybyb
= 5= 5

30. Fabric from shaded twill:

31. 3.2.3 Weaves3.2.3 Weaves
Constructed on SateenConstructed on Sateen
BasesBases
In simple derivatives, a new design isIn simple derivatives, a new design is
built up by using the original sateen asbuilt up by using the original sateen as
the base and adding overlaps, asthe base and adding overlaps, as
required to each base overlap.required to each base overlap.

32.  Reinforced Sateen:Reinforced Sateen:
 Similar to reinforced twill.Similar to reinforced twill.
 If it is necessary to construct the reinforced sateen onIf it is necessary to construct the reinforced sateen on
the basis of simple sateen 8/5.the basis of simple sateen 8/5.
 One more overlap should be added to every overlapOne more overlap should be added to every overlap
of the basis sateen.of the basis sateen.
 Widely used in cotton weaving (additional overlaps inWidely used in cotton weaving (additional overlaps in
the repeat make the fabricthe repeat make the fabric structure stronger).structure stronger).

33.  Shaded Sateen:Shaded Sateen:
 Like the shaded twill.Like the shaded twill.
 Shaded sateen represents a gradualShaded sateen represents a gradual
transition from the sateen with wefttransition from the sateen with weft
effect to the sateen with warp effect,effect to the sateen with warp effect,
vice versa.vice versa.
 The repeat RThe repeat Ryy and Rand Roo of the shadedof the shaded
sateen is determined by the formula;sateen is determined by the formula;
 RRyy = R= Rybyb
 RRoo = R= Robob (R(Robob – 1)– 1)
 Example:
Construct a shaded sateen weave
on the transitions of shaded sateen
5/3.
Answer:
Ry – Ryb = 5
Ro = Rob (Rob -1)
= 5 (5 – 1)
= 5 X 4
= 20

35. 3.3 Combined or Fancy3.3 Combined or Fancy
WeavesWeaves
““These weaves are constructed onThese weaves are constructed on
the basis of two or morethe basis of two or more
fundamental weaves and theirfundamental weaves and their
derivatives. Divided into groups ofderivatives. Divided into groups of
crepe weaves, honeycomb weaves,crepe weaves, honeycomb weaves,
corkscrew weaves, huckabackcorkscrew weaves, huckaback
weaves, stripe and check weaves”weaves, stripe and check weaves”

36. 3.3.1 Crepe Weaves3.3.1 Crepe Weaves
Crepe weave are characterized by aCrepe weave are characterized by a
pebbly or crinkle surface.pebbly or crinkle surface.
The size of pebbles and theirThe size of pebbles and their
arrangement on the fabric surfacearrangement on the fabric surface
determine the type of crepe fabricdetermine the type of crepe fabric
(crepe-de-chine, crepe-georgette and(crepe-de-chine, crepe-georgette and
so on).so on).

37. Georgette: Georgette describes a sheer silk (or silk-like)
fabric with a dull, creped surface.

38. Crepe-de-chine:

39.  Construction of Crepe byConstruction of Crepe by
Drawing One Weave Over theDrawing One Weave Over the
Other:Other:
 Choose at least two weaves (one of the weave is Sateen).Choose at least two weaves (one of the weave is Sateen).
 Warp repeat determines the number of shafts (type of sheddingWarp repeat determines the number of shafts (type of shedding
motion of the loom should be taken into consideration).motion of the loom should be taken into consideration).
 It is common to choose the second weave with the same repeat asIt is common to choose the second weave with the same repeat as
the first one. If the second weave is not equal the repeat of the crepethe first one. If the second weave is not equal the repeat of the crepe
weave is found as the least common multiple of the repeats of baseweave is found as the least common multiple of the repeats of base
weaves.weaves.

40.  Construction of Crepe byConstruction of Crepe by
Arranging the Warp OverlapsArranging the Warp Overlaps
in Sateen Order:in Sateen Order:
 Constructed on the basis of sateen weave by addingConstructed on the basis of sateen weave by adding
the warp overlaps.the warp overlaps.
 Different groups containing two or more shadedDifferent groups containing two or more shaded
squares can be added at one of the sides of each ofsquares can be added at one of the sides of each of
shaded squares arranged in sateen order.shaded squares arranged in sateen order.

41.  Construction of Crepe byConstruction of Crepe by
Rearranging WarpRearranging Warp
 Twill weave can be chosen as basic weave.Twill weave can be chosen as basic weave.
 The order of warp threads of the base weave should be changed.The order of warp threads of the base weave should be changed.
 The warp repeat changed very often but the weft repeat remains.The warp repeat changed very often but the weft repeat remains.
(These crepe weave can be produced on the same number of(These crepe weave can be produced on the same number of
shaft).shaft).
 The arrangement is done by changing the position of threads on theThe arrangement is done by changing the position of threads on the
shafts and then constructing the weaving plan.shafts and then constructing the weaving plan.
 The construction begins with the lifting plan, where the crosses areThe construction begins with the lifting plan, where the crosses are
placed in the same manner as the shaded squares in the baseplaced in the same manner as the shaded squares in the base
weave.weave.
 The lifting plan determines the number of shafts in the draft.The lifting plan determines the number of shafts in the draft.
 Arrange the warp threads on the shafts.Arrange the warp threads on the shafts.
 No general rules for the arrangement of the warp threads becauseNo general rules for the arrangement of the warp threads because
a variety of arrangements are possible (depends on the designer).a variety of arrangements are possible (depends on the designer).

42.  Example:Example:

43. 3.3.2 Honeycomb Weave or3.3.2 Honeycomb Weave or
Cellular FabricsCellular Fabrics
A group of weaves forms anA group of weaves forms an
embossed cell-like appearance ofembossed cell-like appearance of
fabric.fabric.
Widely used for bathroom towels,Widely used for bathroom towels,
bed covers, quilts, winter garment,bed covers, quilts, winter garment,
etc.etc.

44.  Example 1:Example 1:
 The pointed draft should be drawn with theThe pointed draft should be drawn with the
number of shafts from 4 to 8.number of shafts from 4 to 8.
 The example used the number of shaftsThe example used the number of shafts
equals 5, A.equals 5, A.
 The number of crosses for lifting planThe number of crosses for lifting plan
equal to the number of circles on the draftequal to the number of circles on the draft
(the arrangement similar to the position of(the arrangement similar to the position of
circles).circles).
 The space under the lines of crosses isThe space under the lines of crosses is
filled in with crosses is filled in with crossesfilled in with crosses is filled in with crosses
leaving one row of squares between theleaving one row of squares between the
space and the lines of crosses blank.space and the lines of crosses blank.
 The third element, weave diagram areThe third element, weave diagram are
formed by both element; drafting and liftingformed by both element; drafting and lifting
plan.plan.
 As a result when all the repeat combined aAs a result when all the repeat combined a
hollow is formed in the centre part.hollow is formed in the centre part.

45.  Example 2:Example 2:

46. 3.3.3 Corkscrew3.3.3 Corkscrew
WeavesWeaves
 Kind of diagonal rib weaves.Kind of diagonal rib weaves.
 Two types of corkscrew weaves:Two types of corkscrew weaves:
1.1. Warp CorkscrewWarp Corkscrew
• Long warp floats on the face and on the wrongLong warp floats on the face and on the wrong
side of the fabric.side of the fabric.
• It has greater warp density compare to weft andIt has greater warp density compare to weft and
the weave produces warp effect on both side ofthe weave produces warp effect on both side of
the fabric.the fabric.
2.2. Weft CorkscrewWeft Corkscrew
• It has a weft surface.It has a weft surface.

47.  Warp CorkscrewWarp Corkscrew
 Constructed on the basisConstructed on the basis
of sateen weaves such as,of sateen weaves such as,
5/2, 7/2, 9/2, 13/2, i.e. with5/2, 7/2, 9/2, 13/2, i.e. with
odd numbers of threads inodd numbers of threads in
the repeat.the repeat.
 It can be considered as aIt can be considered as a
derivative of sateenderivative of sateen
weave.weave.
 Constructed by adding theConstructed by adding the
marks on the fundamentalmarks on the fundamental
sateen weave.sateen weave.

48.  Weft CorkscrewWeft Corkscrew
 Constructed by turning warpConstructed by turning warp
corkscrew into weft corkscrewcorkscrew into weft corkscrew
weave by rotating the weaveweave by rotating the weave
diagram by 90º and then bydiagram by 90º and then by
substituting the warp overlapssubstituting the warp overlaps
with the weft ones, and vicewith the weft ones, and vice
versa, A.versa, A.
 The direction of diagonal ribsThe direction of diagonal ribs
of the weave can be changed,of the weave can be changed,
if necessary, by rearrangingif necessary, by rearranging
the weft threads in thethe weft threads in the
reverse order.reverse order.

49. 3.3.4 Huckaback3.3.4 Huckaback
weavesweaves
 Contains, on one hand, aContains, on one hand, a
number of warp and weftnumber of warp and weft
threads with long floatsthreads with long floats
which make the fabric softwhich make the fabric soft
and moisture absorbent,and moisture absorbent,
and on the other hand, theand on the other hand, the
plain weave threads whichplain weave threads which
ensure the firmness of theensure the firmness of the
structure.structure.
 Used for bathroom towels,Used for bathroom towels,
glass cloths, and forglass cloths, and for
counterpanes.counterpanes.
 Constructed on the basis ofConstructed on the basis of
plain weave.plain weave.

50.  Example 2:Example 2:
 The use of long floats in eachThe use of long floats in each
quarter of repeat.quarter of repeat.
 If there are long warp floats inIf there are long warp floats in
the left bottom and right topthe left bottom and right top
quarters, the long weft floatsquarters, the long weft floats
are constructed in the left topare constructed in the left top
and right bottom quarters.and right bottom quarters.
 The long warp floats on theThe long warp floats on the
threads 2, 4, 9 and 11 on thethreads 2, 4, 9 and 11 on the
face of the weave.face of the weave.
 4 long weft floats are placed4 long weft floats are placed
on the threads 3, 5, 8 and 10on the threads 3, 5, 8 and 10
where the weft thread in thewhere the weft thread in the
place of float passes over 5place of float passes over 5
warp threads.warp threads.

52. 3.4 Compound Weaves3.4 Compound Weaves
““Compound weave fabric are ofCompound weave fabric are of
a specific structure, thereforea specific structure, therefore
special methods andspecial methods and
mechanisms used in theirmechanisms used in their
production”production”

53. 3.4.1 Back Warp3.4.1 Back Warp
WeavesWeaves
It is applies when it isIt is applies when it is
necessary to increase thenecessary to increase the
thickness or the mass ofthickness or the mass of
the fabric by adding warpthe fabric by adding warp
system.system.

54. Construction:
1.Choose the weave of the face (the warp-
faced weaves is chosen as the base weaves).
Example twill 3/1, A (the base weave must
have long weft floats on the back side.
2.The warp and weft repeat of this weave
equals 4.
3.The roman digits used to mark the threads of
the face weave.
4.The section cut through the warp at the weft
thread 1.
5.The section for warp threads are represented
circles of the upper row, and back warp by the
circles of the lower row.
6.Weft thread 1, is placed below warp threads
1, 2, 3 and above 4.
7.To bind, the suitable thread is warp thread II
because the point of binding is in the middle of
long float of the fabric (it is also for better
appearance).
8.The weft thread 1 has to be interlaced with
the warp threads of both systems.
9.The interlacing of the weft thread 1 with the
back warp at B can be transferred to the
diagram C.

55. 10.10.The face and back warpThe face and back warp
threads are arrangedthreads are arranged
alternately or in thealternately or in the
proportion of one faceproportion of one face
thread to one thread, D.thread to one thread, D.
11.11.The cross section of theThe cross section of the
fabric through the weftfabric through the weft
thread 1 is representedthread 1 is represented
at E.at E.
12.12.The longitudinal sectionThe longitudinal section
of the fabric through theof the fabric through the
warp threads 1 and I iswarp threads 1 and I is
shown at F.shown at F.

56. 13.13.The weaving plan isThe weaving plan is
shown at G (divided draftshown at G (divided draft
is suitable in this case).is suitable in this case).
14.14.4 front heald shafts are4 front heald shafts are
used for a face warp andused for a face warp and
4 other shaft for a back4 other shaft for a back
warp.warp.
15.15.The ratio of the face andThe ratio of the face and
back warps is 1:1, 2back warps is 1:1, 2
warp threads should bewarp threads should be
drawn in one dent of thedrawn in one dent of the
reed (the face and backreed (the face and back
threads).threads).

57. 3.4.2 Back Weft3.4.2 Back Weft
WeavesWeaves
To increase either theTo increase either the
thickness or mass of thethickness or mass of the
fabric.fabric.
2 systems of weft and one2 systems of weft and one
system of warp.system of warp.

58. Construction:Construction:
1.1. Choose either warp-faced or weft-Choose either warp-faced or weft-
faced weave.faced weave.
2.2. Long warp overlaps are necessaryLong warp overlaps are necessary
on the back side of the weave foron the back side of the weave for
binding the back weft to the fabrics.binding the back weft to the fabrics.
3.3. Weft-face weave should beWeft-face weave should be
chosen.chosen.
4.4. Example, weft-faced twill 1/3,A.Example, weft-faced twill 1/3,A.
5.5. The longitudinal section of theThe longitudinal section of the
fabric at warp 1 is shown at B (weftfabric at warp 1 is shown at B (weft
threads are arranged in 2 verticalthreads are arranged in 2 vertical
rows).rows).
6.6. There is a long float of the warpThere is a long float of the warp
thread on the back side of thethread on the back side of the
weave.weave.
7.7. The most suitable point of bindingThe most suitable point of binding
is the middle of the long float.is the middle of the long float.
8.8. The interlacing of the warp and theThe interlacing of the warp and the
back weft, C.back weft, C.

59. 9.9. In this double weftIn this double weft
weave, the face andweave, the face and
back weft threadsback weft threads
alternate with eachalternate with each
other, D.other, D.
10.10.The longitudinalThe longitudinal
section of thesection of the
weave is, F and theweave is, F and the
cross section at thecross section at the
weft threads 1 and I,weft threads 1 and I,
at E.at E.

60. 11.11.The weaving plan isThe weaving plan is
shown at G. Theshown at G. The
warp repeat of thiswarp repeat of this
weave is 4, so the 4weave is 4, so the 4
heald shaft areheald shaft are
sufficient. Thesufficient. The
straight draft isstraight draft is
used.used.

61. 3.4.3 Terry Toweling3.4.3 Terry Toweling
WeavesWeaves
 Characterized by the formation of loops which areCharacterized by the formation of loops which are
raised above the surface of the fabric either onraised above the surface of the fabric either on
one or both sides.one or both sides.
 Used for toweling, bath mats, bed covers andUsed for toweling, bath mats, bed covers and
dress (posses good wet ability, hygroscopisity anddress (posses good wet ability, hygroscopisity and
heat conductivity).heat conductivity).
 Two systems of warp threads and one system ofTwo systems of warp threads and one system of
weft threads are usually used.weft threads are usually used.
 One warp interlacing with weft forms the groundOne warp interlacing with weft forms the ground
structure.structure.
 The second warp is used for forming the loopsThe second warp is used for forming the loops
which are firmly held in the ground structure.which are firmly held in the ground structure.

62. A
 Construction:Construction:
1.1. There should be two weaver’s beamsThere should be two weaver’s beams
(difference tension during weaving).(difference tension during weaving).
2.2. The ground warp has a great tension. TheThe ground warp has a great tension. The
warp is loosely held in the loom.warp is loosely held in the loom.
3.3. The loom equipped with a special slayThe loom equipped with a special slay
motion, where the first two strokes of reedmotion, where the first two strokes of reed
are shot, but the third one is normal.are shot, but the third one is normal.
4.4. The loop threads, marked by Arabic digits,The loop threads, marked by Arabic digits,
alternate with ground threads which arealternate with ground threads which are
marked by roman digits.marked by roman digits.
5.5. Two warp repeats and four weft repeats, BTwo warp repeats and four weft repeats, B
and C.and C.
6.6. The simple base weave used to constructThe simple base weave used to construct
this terry weave.this terry weave.
7.7. The interlacing of weft threads with theThe interlacing of weft threads with the
ground warp threads is shown at B, andground warp threads is shown at B, and
that with loop warp threads at C.that with loop warp threads at C.
8.8. Four heald shafts are sufficient forFour heald shafts are sufficient for
producing this weave. The divided draft isproducing this weave. The divided draft is
preferable.preferable.
9.9. The longitudinal section of this weave isThe longitudinal section of this weave is
shown at D.shown at D.

63. Fabric in which the
loops are distributed
on face surface

65. 3.5 Jacquard3.5 Jacquard
WeavesWeaves
Large patterns fabrics using severalLarge patterns fabrics using several
hundreds warp threads interlacinghundreds warp threads interlacing
with the same number of weftwith the same number of weft
threads in the repeat equipped withthreads in the repeat equipped with
a particular type of shedding motiona particular type of shedding motion
called Jacquard machine.called Jacquard machine.