The document presents an overview of fabric structure and design, focusing on the characteristics and classifications of woven fabrics, particularly plain weave. It details various concepts such as warp and weft yarns, grain, interlacing fields, and different types of drafts used in fabric design. Additionally, it describes derivatives of plain weave, including ribbed and matt weaves, along with their advantages and disadvantages.

1. Fabric Structure
And Design
WELCOME TO MY
PRESENTATION
DHAKA UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING & TECHNOLOGY,
GAZIPUR
Presentation Topic:
Abdul Aziz
Department of Textile Engineering
ID: 175053
3rd Year/2nd Semester
Presented By:
Mr. Shamsuzzaman Sheikh
Assistant Professor, Department of Textile Engineering
Dhaka University of Engineering and Technology, Gazipur
Presented To:
 Introduction to fabric structure and design
 Plain weave
01

2. Woven fabrics are composed of warp threads and weft threads, interlaced with one another
according to the class of structure and form of design that are desired.
According to weave structures woven fabrics may be conveniently divided into two principal
categories, as follows:
(i) Simple Structure (ii) Compound Structure
Introduction to fabric structure and design:
Identification of warp and weft:
1. The selvedge always runs in the lengthwise (warp) direction
of all fabrics.
2. Most fabrics have lower elongation in the warp direction.
3. The warp yarns lie straighter and are more parallel in the
fabric because of loom tension.
4. Fabric characteristics may differentiate between the warp and weft
directions. For example, poplin has a weft rib and satin has warp
floats.
5. Warp yarns tend to be smaller, are more uniform in structure and
appearance, and have higher twist.
6. Fabric crimp is practically greater for warp yarns.
Related Definition:
 Grain: Grain refers to the geometry or position of
warp yarns relative to filling yarns in the fabric. Grain
includes two types which are on grain and off gran.
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On grain Off grain

3.  Structure: the interlacements of warp and weft threads are known as structure.
 Texture: It describes the body and surface of fabric. Textures may be rough or smooth, coarse or fine, soft or stiff, thin or bulky,
opaque or sheer, shiny or dull, heavy or light, or any combination of these characteristics.
Variation of woven cloth structure depends on following
foundational factors:
 The nature of yarns used.
 The count or relative thickness of the yarns used as warp
and weft.
 Weave Plan
 Drafting Plan
 Lifting Plan
 Denting Plan
Foundation of woven cloth structure:
Parts of a complete design for a woven fabric:
 The order of interlacing the ends and picks.
 Modifications produced by finishing.
03

4. Some important factors or terms:
 Contact fields: These are the contact points between warp and weft crossing at right angle. The
number of contact fields always equals the product of the number of warp and weft threads. Contact field
= RNwa X RNwe = 3 X 3 = 9
 Interlacing Field: These are the points where a yarn of one system of threads changes its position in
relation to the other system. A distinction is made between single and double interlacing fields.
 Single Interlacing Field: The yarn bends from the top of the fabric to the bottom and covers two or more yarns.
 Double Interlacing Field: The yarn bends, cover a following yarn, bends again and reappears at the same fabric side.
04
 Repeat Number: It indicates the number of warp and weft yarns in the repeat. The repeat number for the warp equals the sum
of the figures in the formula number for the weft and vice versa.
 Interlacing Ratio: The interlacing ratio of a fabric is the ratio between the actual number of interlacing fields and the maximum
number of interlacing fields. The degree of interlacing is the interlacing ratio expressed as percentage.

5.  Formula Number: The number of floats always equals the number of figures in the formula number. The warp floats
coming up are put above the fraction line, the warp floats going down are put under the fraction line.
Where,
FNwa = Formula no. for the warp and FNwe = Formula no. for the weft.
FNwe=
2 1 1
1 1 4
FNwa=
4 2 1
1 1 1
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Systems of drafting / classification of drafting:
Straight draft is used
in twill design.
This system is
particularly used in
plain weave, very
densely fabric.
Pointed draft is used to
produce fabric with
symmetrical design e.g.
jig-jag twill, diamond.
This draft is applied for
producing herringbone
twills, diaper design and
etc.
The draft is employed
for derived weaves,
double warp weaves,
two ply weaves, pile
weaves etc.

6. This draft is used for producing check
and stripe fabric.
In producing some special type of
fabrics different type of drafts are
required to be mixed.
Curved is used to produce decorated
weave with large repeat unit.
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Relation between design, drafting plan and lifting plan:
The construction of any woven fabric depends upon the design, draft and the lifting plan and these are very closely dependent
upon one another. A thorough knowledge of this interdependence is very valuable to the designer upon whose skill several
mechanical limitations of the loom may be imposed.
the designer has to produce a range of designs for looms with a known pattern scope. This usually involves the draft and the
lifting plan construction. A similar procedure is adopted when the designer is asked to reproduce a specific design from a sample.
The weave in the sample is analyzed and a suitable draft and lifting plan is derived.

7. Plain weave
 It has the maximum number of binding points.
 It has the smallest repeat 2 x 2.
 The threads interlace on alternate order of 1 up and 1 down.
Features of plain weave
A weave in which there are 2 ends and 2 picks in a repeat is called a plain weave. It is the simplest
of all weaves and variously known as “calico” or “tabby” weave.
 Both sides of the weave are identical.
 Texture is stronger and firmer than any other ordinary cloth.
 Minimum 2 heald frames are required to form the weave.
Classification of plain cloth
 Approximately square cloths:
𝟏𝟓𝟎 𝑿 𝟏𝟓𝟎
𝟒𝟓 𝑿 𝟒𝟓
𝒙 𝟓𝟗"
 Warp faced cloths:
𝟏𝟓𝟎 𝑿 𝟑𝟎
𝟓𝟎 𝑿 𝟖
𝑿 𝟓𝟔"
 Weft faced cloths:
𝟑𝟎 𝑿 𝟏𝟒𝟓
𝟐𝟎 𝑿 𝟔𝟎
𝑿 𝟓𝟖"
 Balance Cloth:
𝟏𝟒𝟎 𝑿 𝟏𝟒𝟎
𝟒𝟓 𝑿𝟒𝟓
X 59”
 Unbalanced Cloth:
𝟏𝟓𝟎 𝑿 𝟏𝟓𝟎
𝟓𝟎 𝑿𝟒𝟐
X 57” ,
𝟏𝟓𝟎 𝑿 𝟒𝟐
𝟓𝟎 𝑿𝟓𝟎
X 57”
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8. Derivatives of plain weave
Ribbed or corded effects are variations
of the plain weave. The rib may be
produced in the warp or in the weft by
alternating fine yarns with coarse yarns,
or single yarns with doubled yarns.
There are two types of rib weave, such
as warp rib and weft rib.
Rib Weave
Matt weave is constructed by
extending the plain weave both
vertically and horizontally.It is
produced combination of warp
and weft rib. The smallest matt
weave is 2 / 2 (2) (X) matt.
Matt Weave
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9. Regular warp rib:
 Formula number: X/X [
X=Number of warp up in repeat]
 Regular appearance is shown in
the fabric.
 Used as grosgrain cloth, mattress
cloth etc.
Irregular warp rib:
 Formula number: X/ Y [
X=Number of warp up in repeat
and Y=Number of weft up in
repeat ].
 Irregular appearance is shown in
the fabric.
 Used as grosgrain cloth, mattress
cloth etc.
Regular weft rib:
 Formula number: 1/1 (X) [
X=Number of warp up in
repeat].
 Regular appearance is shown in
the fabric.
 The thickness of all ribs is same.
Irregular weft rib:
 Formula number: 1/1 (X+Y)
 Irregular appearance is shown in
the fabric.
 The thickness of all ribs is not
same. 9

10. Regular matt:
 Formula number: X/X
(X) [ X=Number of
warp up in repeat]
 It is produced by the
combination of regular
warp and weft rib
weave.
Irregular matt:
 Formula number: X/Y
(X+Y) [ X=Number of
warp up in repeat and
Y=Number of weft up in
repeat].
 It is produced by the
combination of irregular
warp and weft rib weave.
Stitched matt:
 Formula number: X/X (X) [
X=Number of warp up in repeat]
 To produce a firm cloth with
lower setting, the center ends in
each square can be stitched.
 In warp face, the central warp
yarn goes down and in weft face,
the central warp yarn comes up.
Fancy matt:
 Formula number: X/X (X) [
X=Number of warp up in repeat]
 They produce decorative
appearance on the fabric surface.
 It can be compared with "katha"
and "nokshi-katha".
10

11. Difference between rib and matt
Rib weave Matt weave
1. It produce rib or cord
effect
1. It is the combination of warp
and weft rib.
2. Repeat size may not be
square
2. Repeat size may be squared.
3. Two types of rib weave. 3. Four types of matt weave.
4. Tight structure. 4. Loose structure.
Difference between warp rib and weft rib
Warp Rib Weave Weft Rib Weave
1. It produces rib or cord effect
in the weft direction.
1. It produces rib or cord effect in
the warp direction.
2. Fiber yarn used as warp and
coarser as weft.
2. Finer yarn used as weft and
coarser as warp.
3. The no. of ends are more than
no. of picks in the unit space.
3. The no. of picks is more than
no. of ends in unit space.
4. The ends interlace with the
picks.
4. The picks interlace with the
ends.
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Ornamentation of plain cloth:
 By using fancy slub yarns.
 By combining different orders of denting.
 By using two warp beams, which are differently
tensioned, is produced seer-sucker stripe.
 By using different twisted yarns.
 By using different Textile materials, such as wool
and cotton is produced union fabric.
Advantages:
 Wears well
 Offers appropriate background
for printing, special finishes.
 good dimensional stability if of
high fabric count.
Disadvantages:
 Ravels
 Appears uninteresting Shows
wrinkling
 Has lower tear strength than some
other weaves
Advantages and disadvantages

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