The document discusses various types of basic weaves used in textiles, including plain weave, twill weaves, satin/sateen weaves, and novelty weaves. The plain weave is the simplest with threads alternating over and under in a repeating pattern. Twill weaves feature diagonal lines created by a floating thread that passes over or under a set number of threads. Satin/sateen weaves have smooth surfaces and use numerical systems to determine the floating thread pattern. Novelty weaves include complex patterns from Jacquard and dobby attachments on looms.

2. BASIC WEAVE

3. The plain weave is variously known as “calico” or “tabby” weave
It is the simplest of all weaves having a repeat size of 2
(i)It has the maximum number of binding points
(ii)The threads interlace on alternate order of 1 up and 1 down.
(iii)The thread density is limited
(iv)Cloth thickness and mass per unit area are limited
(v)It produces a relatively stronger fabric that is obtained by any
other simple combination of threads,
excepting that of “gauze”or “cross weaving”
PLAIN WEAVES

4. END USES
Finds extensive uses. It is used in cambric, muslin, blanket, canvas, dhothi, saree, shirting, suiting, etc.

5. WARP RIB
These are produced by extending the plain weave in warp way direction

6. WEFT RIB
These are constructed by extending the plain weave in weft direction
END USES
 Gross grain cloths, matelasse fabrics, repp cloth which is extensively employed for window blinds in
railway carriages and other vehicles, upholstering furniture, and cambric picket handkerchief

7. MATT RIB
Hopsack or basket weaves. This structures result from extending the plain weave in both directions
END USES
Matt weave finds extensive uses for a great variety of fabrics such as dress materials, shirtings, sail
cloth, duck cloth etc.

8.  They can be constructed in a variety of ways
 The main feature of these weaves that distinguishes from other types is the presence of pronounced
diagonal lines that run along the width of the fabric
(i) They form diagonal lines from one selvedge to another
(ii) More ends (warp yarn) per unit area and picks (weft yarn)per unit area than plain cloth
(iii) Less binding points (intersect) than plain cloth
(iv) Better cover than plain weave
(v) More cloth thickness and mass per unit area
TWILL WEAVES
END USES
Twill weaves find a wide range of application such as drill cloth, khakhi uniforms, denim cloth,
blankets, shirtings, hangings and soft furnishings

10. The twill weaves are produced in a wide variety of forms. They are however classified broadlyinto
important categories, namely :
(i) Ordinary or continuous twills
(ii) Zig zag , pointed or wavy twills
(iii) Rearranged twills such as satin/sateen weaves and corkscrew weaves
(iv) Combination twills
(v) Broken twills
(vi) Figured and other related twill weaves
The above types of twills are further sub-classified as:
(a) Warp face twills
(b) Weft face twills
(c) Warp and weft face twills
 Right-hand twill,
 Left-hand twill

11. In these twills the warp and weft floats may be
equal or unequal with either the warp floats
predominating the weft floats and vice versa.
the weft thread floats over the warp on all picks
in a repeat except one. Examples of weft faced
twills are 1/2, 1/3, 1/4, 1/5 etc.
WARP FACED TWILL
In these types of twills the warp thread floats over all the picks in a repeat except one pick. The
minimum repeat size required is 3. Examples of warp faced twills are 2/1, 3/1, 4/1, 5/1etc.
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X X
X
X
X
X
X
X
WEFT FACED TWILL WARP and WEFT FACED TWILL

13.  These are also known as pointed twills
 In these classes of twill weaves the twill progresses
in one direction for half of the repeat and then is
reversed for the next half of the repeat
 The reversal of the twill may be done in a regular or
irregular manner
 Ideally the reversal of the twill should be done
considering the series of threads that predominate
the face of the fabric.
 Thus warp way reversal is done in cases where the
warp predominates over the weft and weft way
reversal is done in cases where
the weft predominates over the warp
ZIG ZAG , POINTED OR WAVY TWILLS

14. HERRINGBONE TWILLS
 In the case of these twills, the twill is reversed as in the case of pointed
twills
 However, the pointed effect is broken. This type of construction
produces a distinct stripe effect and also prevents the formation of
an extended float where the weave turns
 In this aspect the herringbone twills are considered to be more
advantageous than the pointed twills

15.  Satin is a warp faced rearranged twill and sateen is a rearranged weft faced twill
 Thus satin is the reverse side of sateen weaves. These weaves form an important category of weaves. They
are used in combination with other weaves, particularly in case of ornamentedfabrics
 The striking feature of these weaves is their bright appearance and smooth feel
(i) They are either warp or weft faced weaves
(ii) Have no prominent weave structures
(iii) No continuous twill lines
(iv) Have poor seam strength due to thread mobility
(v) More thread density is possible in warp and weft
(vi) More mass per unit area is possible
(vii) Have less binding points and more float lengths
(viii) Use of move numbers (intervals of selection) is necessary to construct these weaves
SATIN AND SATEEN WEAVES

16.  In the construction of satin/sateen weaves, the stitching points of warp or weft for a given repeat
size is done by the use of move numbers or stitch or float numbers.
 The move numbers are selected according to the repeat size of the weave.
 In choosing move numbers for the construction of satin/sateen weaves, the following rules areto
be adopted:
(a) The move number should not be equal to the repeat of the weave
(b) It should not be one less than the repeat size
(c) It should not be a factor of the repeat size, and
(d) It should not be a multiple of the factor

18. END USES
Satin weaves find a wide range of application such as denim, interlining cloth, ribbons,dress
materials (lustrous), children‟sdress materials etc.

19. COMBINATION TWILL
 In these types of weaves two different types of continuous twills are combined together alternately. The
combination may be warp way or weft way. Accordingly warp or weft faced twills may be used suitably.
 The angle of twill is influenced by the method of combination. If the twills are combined warp way, then
the angle of twill is less than 45o and if the twills are combined weft way the angle of twill angle is
greater than 45o
 Combination twills find extensive use in the worsted industry in the production of garment fabrics, as
these weaves are capable of producing compact textures. These twills are constructed by two methods
:
(i) End and end combination
(ii) Pick and pick combination.
 In the first method the twill weaves are combined end way and in the second method twill weaves
are combined in pick way

20. BROKEN TWILLS
 These twills are constructed by breaking the continuity of any continuous twill weave in either a
regular or an irregular order, generally a stripe like effect.
 The direction of the stripes can tend to be in either the direction of warp or weft accordingly as the
continuity is broken warp or weft way
 The method involves skipping a suitable warp thread in a repeat of the twill
1/3 twill with three repeats - broken twill

21. NOVELTY WEAVE

22. Jacquard weave
• The Jacquard weave, used to make allover figured fabrics such as brocades,
tapestries, and damasks, is woven on a loom having a Jacquard
attachment to control individual warps.
• Fabrics of this type are costly because of the time and skill involved in
making the Jacquard cards, preparing the loom to produce a new pattern,
and the slowness of the weaving operation.
• The Jacquard weave usually combines two or more basic weaves, with
different weaves used for the design and the background.

23. Dobby weaves
• Dobby weaves also produce allover figured fabrics.
• They are made on looms having a dobby attachment, with
narrow strips of wood instead of Jacquard cards.
• Dobby weaves are limited to simple, small geometric
figures, with the design repeated frequently, and are fairly
inexpensive to produce.