Waves transport energy through a medium and can be characterized by their amplitude, wavelength, frequency, period, and speed. There are two main types of waves - transverse waves where the medium moves perpendicular to the direction of energy transport, and longitudinal waves where the medium and energy move parallel. Ocean waves are created by wind pushing on water, with larger fetches and faster winds producing larger waves. Wave properties change in deep and shallow water, and different types of ocean waves include seas, swells, and surf breaks near shorelines. Tsunamis are large waves caused by earthquakes or other seismic events.

2. Wave:
 Transportation of forms of energy
 Light, heat, and sound travel as waves
 Most travel through a medium (not electromagnetic
waves)

3. Medium
 Matter through which waves pass through

4. CREST – high
point on wave
WAVELENGTH –
distance on a wave
from one point to the
next identical point
TROUGH – low
point on a wave
AMPLITUDE - height
of wave, directly
related to energy

5. Period:
 Time for one whole wave to pass by a fixed point
 Example 1: The time from one crest to the next crest is
5 seconds. Therefore the period is 5 seconds
 Example 2: The frequency of the wave is .25 waves per
second. The frequency would be 4 seconds

6. Frequency:
 The number of waves per second
 Example 1: 8 waves pass by in 4 seconds. The frequency
would be 2 waves/second

7. Wave Speed:
 The speed at which the energy in a wave is moving
 Example 1: Wind Generated Wave:
Period: 4s, Wavelength: 60m; 60m/4s = 15 m/s
 Example 2: Tidal Wave (Tsunami):
Period: 15 mins (900s), Wavelength; 192 km
(192,000m); 192,000m/900s = 213 m/s = 1/8 mile/sec = 1
mile every 8 seconds = 450 miles per hour

8. Reflection:
 Bouncing back of wave
 Law of Reflection, the angle at which the wave hits will
be the same angle at which it reflects

9. Diffraction:
 The bending of waves

10. Wave Interference:
 Two or more waves coming in contact with another
 Constructive interference produces larger amplitudes
 Destructive interference produces smaller amplitudes

11. Transverse Waves:
 Moves at right angles to the direction of the waves
energy
 Matter moves up and down, while energy moves side
to side
 Demo:
ENERGY
MATTER

12. Longitudinal Waves
 a.k.a. compressional waves
 Medium moves in the same direction as the energy of
the wave
 Energy and the matter move side to side
 Demo: MATTERENERGY

13. WAVELENGTH – distance on a wave from
one point to the next identical point (from
one compression to another)
COMPRESSIONRAREFRACTION

14. Ocean Wave Creation:
 Winds cause the formation of waves
 The faster and longer the wind, the larger the wave
 Size also depends on the fetch, the span of water over
which the wind blows
wind
Fetch
Fetch
Larger waves
Smaller waves

15. Ocean Wave Movement:
 Matter moves in
a circular pattern
as energy passes
through

16. Types of Ocean Waves:
 Seas – choppy water due to storm winds resulting in
peaked waves with flat troughs
 Swells – once away from winds crests and troughs
smooth out into typical waves
 Breaks/Surf – in shallow water, waves slow and pile up
and become higher and steeper, eventually falling over

17. Storm Winds
Seas
Swells
Breaks & Surf

18. Deepwater Waves:
 Occur in water that is deeper than half their
wavelength
 Orbital motion decreases quickly with depth and has
no contact with the bottom of the ocean

19. Shallow Water Waves:
 Occur when the water is shallower than one-fourth of
the wavelength, thus it has contact with the bottom
 The contact with the bottom flattens out the orbital
motion into an ellipse

20. Tidal Wave:
 A general term used to describe a large wave which
may goes against wind and wave direction
 Describes:
 Tidal bore
 Tidal surge
 Tsunami

21. Tidal Bore:
 Large movement of water due the funneling of an
incoming tide into a narrow river or bay

22. Tidal Surge:
 A temporary increase in
the volume of water,
usually due to a
hurricane, that causes
waves to go over top of
defenses

23. Tsunami (Tidal Wave):
 A tidal surge or wave caused by an earthquake