The presentation highlights on the spinning process, sewing thread and the defects in making a yarn. The basic knowledge that a FD student should be clear.

1. YARNYARNPART III:PART III:
SPINNING, YARN DEFECTS & SEWING THREADSSPINNING, YARN DEFECTS & SEWING THREADS
Dr. S. Aishwariya
INSPIRE Fellow (DST) & Assistant Professor
Department of Textiles and Clothing
Avinashilingam University for Women, Coimbatore

2. SPINNING

3. CULTIVATION OF COTTON
Cotton grows from seeds
Cultivated on fields
To make it into yarn, the cotton
bolls are collected and packed tight
- Bale

4. BALE AND RAW COTTON
Cotton from the bale is unpacked for further spinning process

5. GINNING - SEED REMOVED
Ginning is the process in which
the cotton collected from field is
processed to remove the fibre and
trash (waste) separately

6. SPINNING

7. SPINNING MILL
1. BLOW ROOM
After ginning the fibres reach the spinning mill, where the fibre is
made into a yarn
Here the bale (fibres) are opened
The suction moves over the bale, and starts opening the sucked
fibres by using rush of air
OPENING – CLEANING – BLENDING – MIXING

8. 2. LAP FORMATION
The opened fibres are made into a soft roll or lap
by removing of waste particles
LAP IS SHEET OF FIBERS – WIDE IN LENGTH

9. 3. CARDING
Opened fibers are passed between
rollers with comb
Removal of trash and short fibres
Fibers drawn together are made
into a loose rope - sliver
Carded sliver

10. 4. COMBING
Additional process of combing
is done – remove short fibres
and obtain high quality – voile
& organdie
COMBED
SLIVER yarn

11. 5. DRAFTING / DRAWING
The combed/ carded
lap is reduced in
diameter
Slivers are combined –
smoothened &
stretched

12. 6. ROVING
▪ Yarn diameter is reduced to
diameter of a pencil led
▪ Bobbins are placed on roving frame
where further drawing and twisting
is done
DRAFTED YARN

13. SLIVER
DRAFTING
ROVING

14. 7. SPINNING
▪ Incorporating twist
▪ Winding into yarn
▪ High speed

15. STEPS IN SPINNING
1. BLOW ROOM
2. LAP FORMATION
3. CARDING SLIVER
4. COMBED SLIVER
5. DRAFTING AND DRAWING
6. ROVING
7. SPINNING

16. YARN DEFECTSYARN DEFECTS
 Yarn quality is affected
by % of yarn fault.
Analysing is important
because;
 Causes breaks during
post spinning
operations.
 Detract aesthetic appeal
of the fabric , if allowed
to pass

17. YARN DEFECTSYARN DEFECTS
 Appearance and strength is affected by yarn quality
 Spinning ability and fabric appearance is affected by yarn
quality
 Yarn quality decides on acceptance/ rejection of the piece
 A fault-free thread is important, because every unwanted
yarn can create a problem.
 With poor yarn quality good quality fabric cannot be
made
 FAULT FREE – IMPOSSIBLE, but defects can be
reduced by keeping machine clean and process control.

18. SLUB
This is abnormally thick
and thin places
indicating less twist in
one place

19. NEPS
Uster Imperfection
Indicator identifies
the rolled fibre mass
at one place, which
can be seen with close
observation using
black velvet board

20. CORK SCREW
YARN
There are two yarns,
one straight another
coiled over

21. SPUN IN FLY
Fluff of yarns are
either spun/ loosely
embedded into the
yarn

22. SOFT YARN/
SNARL
Yarn with less twist and
indicating weakness

23. Other faults
▪Imperfection at thick and thin place
▪Oil stained yarn
▪Crackers (coils) inside the yarn
▪Kitty yarn – presence of trash in yarn
Other faults: Hairy yarn, Foreign matter,
Spun in fly, Slough off, Knots, Excessive
hard yarn , Rust stain, Low strength yarn,
Bad piecing are some of the other types of
yarn defects

24. SEWING THREAD

25.  Leather industry
 Upholstery
 Car seat
 Rainwear
 Hospital and surgery
 Defence and police
 Fireman – bullet
proof, dress, shoe
 Aircraft seat
 Horse rug
 Hot air balloon
 Sports-ball/racket
 Fishing lines
 Bed mattress/ quilt
 Air bag
 Spare wheel cover

26. Sewing thread is
flexible, small diameter
yarn
that is given surface
coating or lubricant
or both,
that helps in stitching
one or more pieces of
fabric/ material/ object
together
SEWING THREAD - INTRODUCTION

27. ▪ Thread should be as fine as possible depending on the
required strength of the seam.
▪ Special kind of yarn engineered to pass through the
sewing machine rapidly
▪ Most single needle lock stitch and other machines are
designed for Z twist threads
▪ S twist yarns tend to twist during stitching
SEWING THREAD
Design/ Specification

28. SEWING THREAD : PROPERTIES
 Sewing thread should be uniform, knot
and fault free and should be easily able to
pass through the needle hole
 Tensile/ breaking strength are important
in evaluating the quality of sewing thread
 They should have good life time along
with life time of being inside the finished
product

29. ▪ Industry power operated machines
performance is based on sewing threads quality
▪ Quality of sewing thread affect the seam quality
and production cost
▪ Material to sew, sewing technique, end use
determines the sewing performance.
▪ Ability to give the required aesthetics and
serviceability are important in a sewing thread
SEWING THREAD : PROPERTIES

30. QUALITIES OF GOOD SEWING THREAD
 Uniform thickness/ diameter – successful smooth sewing
 Good colour fastness – good thread should sustain washing, sun drying
and still hold same colour
 Good abrasion resistance – enable good sewing and high productivity
 Good resistance to chemicals and perspiration (sweat)
 Washing, bleaching and dry cleaning – chemicals used in that

31. SEWING THREAD
▪ Overall thickness of the thread - size of
sewing thread denoted by ticket
number/ Tex/ count

32. FIBRES USED
Natural :
Cotton is the common fibre in sewing thread and mostly used in industrial sewing
Man made:
High tenacity
High resistance to abrasion
Good resistance to chemicals
Not affected by moisture, rot and mildew – appreciable properties
Eg1: Spun polyester: Commonly used, variety of size and colour
Eg 2: Core Spun thread: core-polyester/ wound by cotton/polyester

33. THANK YOU!