PERFUMES-NOTES IN PERFUME-CLASSIFICATION-SOURCE OF FRAGRANCE-Manufacturing-EU REGULATION- APPLICATION

1. PERFUMES
Presented By
Sujitha Mary
M pharm
St Joseph College Of Pharmacy

2. CONTENTS
 Introduction
 Notes in perfume
 Classification
 Sources of Fragrances
 Manufacturing Process
 Basic composition
 Ingredients causing Allergic Reaction
 EU Regulation
 Adverse effects of perfumes

3. INTRODUCTION
 Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aromatic compounds, fixatives and solvents
used to give the human body, animal, food objects and living spaces a pleasant scent.
 It is usually in liquid form and used to give a pleasant scent to a person's body.
 The Word “Perfume” comes from the latin word “Per fume” which means “through smoke”.
 Fragrances are among the oldest cosmetic products .
 Perfumes may have been first use Egyptians using scented oil at least 5000 years ago, letter
on followed by the ancient Chinese,Hindus,Arabs,Greeks,& Romans.

4. BASIC PSYCHOLOGY OF USING PERFUMES
 When we inhale the odorant molecules of a perfume, it not only creates the
sensation of odor but also creates emotions and experiences associated with
it. For instance, we focus on the pleasant childhood memories associated with
the smell of vanilla.
 Stimulation of hippocampus causes secretion of growth hormone, sex
hormone and neurotransmitters.
 Another reason behind perfume use is to increase ones attractiveness in the
eyes of other people.

5. NOTES IN PERFUMES
TOP NOTE
MIDDLE NOTE
BASE NOTE

6. NOTES IN PERFUME

7. CLASSIFICATION OF PERFUMES
 9.Based on Concentration of Fragrance & duration of lasting.
Class % of Aromatic
compound
Duration (hours)
Parfume 20-30 6-8
Eau de Parfume 15-20 4-5
Eau de toilette 5-15 2-3
Eau de cologne 2-4 2
Eau fraiche 1-3 2

8. BASED ON NATURAL SOURCES
 Bright floral : Fragrance from one or several flowers. E.g. Lily,Rose,Jasmine,Estee lauders
beautiful.
 Green : Fragrance from cut grass or leaf. E.g. calvin kleins Eternity.
 Aquatic : A clean smell reminiscent of ocean. E.g. David off cool water.
 Citrus : Has freshing effects. E.g. Faberge Bruf.
 Fruity : Aromas of fruits other than citrus. E.g. Ginestet Botrytis 10

9. SOURCES
Plant Sources Animal Sources Synthetic
Bark
Flowers
Blossom
Fruits
Resins
Roots
Seed
Wood etc
Civet
Honeycomb
Deer musk
Ambergris
hyraceum
Calone
Terpenes
Argumen
Aldehyde
Amber
Amyris
Calone

10. MANUFACTURING PROCESS
PERFUMES CAN BE MANUFACTURED BY
FOLLOWING STEPS

11. COMPOSITION OF PERFUMES
 Perfumes are mainly composed of –
1.Essential oils: Derived from natural aromatic plant extracts and/or synthetic aromatic chemicals. E.g.
limonene, linalool, geraniol, citral etc.
2. Fixatives: Natural or synthetic substances used to reduce the evaporation rate. E.g. benzyl benzoate,
benzyl alcohol etc.
3. Solvents: The liquid in which the perfume oil is dissolved in is usually 98% ethanol and 2% water.
Alcohol allows fragrance to spread along with it and does not permit microbial growth in the perfume. 13

12. INGREDIENTS CAUSING ALLERGIC REACTION
INGERDIENYS USE SIDE EFFECT
ACETONE SOLVENT INHALATION CAUSE
DRYNESS OF MOUTH
ETHYL ACETATE SOLVENT DEFATTING EFFECT ON
SKIN MAY CAUSE
DRYING
BENZYL ALCOHOL FIXAYIVE SKIN IRRITATION LIKE
BLISTERS , PAIN
BEZYL BENZOANTE FIXATIVE SWEET
BLASMIC ODOR
SKIN IRRITATION LIKE
BLISTERS
,ITCHING,REDNESS
SANDALWOOD FRAGRANCE HYPERSENSITIVITY

13. EU REGULATION( PERFUME ALLERGENS)
 In 1999, a set of 26 fragrance allergens with a well-recognised potential to cause allergy had been
idenfentified, for which information should be provided to consumers about their presence in cosmetic
products.
 On this basis, the Cosmetics directive required that the presence any of these 26 substances be
indicated in the list of ingredients when its concentration exceeds 0.001 % in leave-on products and
0.01 % in rinse-off products.
 The SCCS opinion lists a number of individual substances and natural extracts considered as
‘established contact allergens in humans, ‘established contact allergens in animals’ or ‘likely contact
allergens by combination of evidence’. The selection is made based on a comprehensive screen of
available clinical and animal data, paired with computer-based SAR modeling where appropriate.
 From the few population-based studies, it can be estimated that the frequency of contact allergy to
fragrance ingredients in the general population in Europe is 1-3%.

14. WHY FRAGRANCE SUBSTANCES CAN BE CLASSIFIED AS SKIN
ALLERGENS?
SCCS Opinion
 The present opinion by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) updates a 1999 opinion
by the Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and Non-Food Products (SCCNFP) using a
systematic and critical review of the scientific literature to identify fragrance allergens, including natural
extracts, relevant to consumers.
 The evidence was evaluated according to clearly defined criteria and the substances were then
categorized as
(i) established contact allergens (in humans or animals),
(ii) likely contact allergens or
(iii) possible contact allergens.

15. ESTABLISHED IN HUMAN(MAJOR)
Synthetic Fragrances
 AMYL CINNAMAL*
 AMYL CINNAMYL ALCOHOL
 AMYL SALICYLATE
 trans-ANETHOLE
 ANISE ALCOHOL*
 BENZALDEHYDE
 BENZYL ALCOHOL*
 BENZYL BENZOATE*
 BENZYL CINNAMATE*
 BENZYL SALICYLATE*
 BUTYLPHENYL METHYLPROPIONAL
Natural fragrances
 EVERNIA FURFURACEA EXTRACT* *
 EVERNIA PRUNASTRI EXTRACT*
 JASMINUM GRANDIFLORUM / OFFICINALE

16. ESTABLISHED IN ANIMALS
Synthetic fragrances.
 Allyl phenoxyacetate
 p-tert. -Butyldihydrocinnamaldehyde
 CYCLAMEN ALDEHYDE
 Dibenzyl ether
 2,3-DIHYDRO-2,2,6-
TRIMETHYLBENZALDEHYDE
 trans-2-Hexenal
 2-Hexylidene cyclopentanone
 HEXYL SALICYLATE
 p-Isobutyl-α-methyl hydrocinnamaldehdye 21
Natural
 Jasminum Sambac Flower CERA / Extract /
Water

17. APPLICATION
 USED In Industrialised Society
 Househould Purpose
 Personsal Product
 Agriculture Product
 Synthetic Detergent
 Perfumed Disinfectant
 Perfumed Candles
 Cosmetic Preparations

18. REFERENCE
Poucher’s Perfume ,Cosmetics & Soap ,10th Edition ,Edited by Hildy Butler.
 http://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/ opinions_layman/perfume-allergies/en/about- perfume-
allergies.htm#29 23