The document discusses the history and manufacturing process of perfumes. It begins with the evolution of perfumery from ancient times and how alchemists developed distillation techniques. Perfumes are made by extracting essential oils from plants through various methods like steam distillation or solvent extraction. The extracted oils are then blended according to a formula and aged. Perfumes can be classified based on concentration, notes, or aromatic sources. There are 26 fragrance ingredients listed as allergens that must be included on cosmetic labels in the EU if above certain concentrations.
CONTROVERSIAL INGREDIENTS OF COSMETICS
Parabens are a set of chemicals which are extensively used as preservatives especially in cosmetics.
They can be discovered in shampoos, industrial moisturizers, shaving gels, topical/parental preparations, tanning solutions, toothpaste, and also in food additives.
Parabens are used to prevent microbial growth of the bacteria in cosmetics to maintain the customers health and maintain the integrity of the product.
Common parabens used are: methyl paraben, propyl paraben, ethyl paraben and butyl paraben.
Parabens will cause a range of reactions to those with allergies. They are notable to cause skin irritation and dermatitis, that could be a serious form of skin inflammation characterized by rashes, blisters and burning skin.
Parabens deeply penetrate the skin and disrupt the conventional functioning of hormones.
Dioxane
The compound 1,4-dioxane is a trace contaminant in some cosmetic products. It is not used as an ingredient in cosmetics, but may be present in extremely small amounts in some cosmetics.
1,4-dioxane forms as a byproduct during the manufacturing process of certain cosmetic ingredients.
These ingredients include certain detergents, foaming agents, emulsifiers, and solvents.
The compound is formed through a process called as ‘Ethyoxylation’, in which ethylene oxide, a known breast carcinogen is added to other chemicals to make them harsh.
Formaldehyde Liberators
Formaldehyde is a colorless, strong smelling gas used in a wide range of industries and products including building materials, cabinets furniture, walls and personal care products.
Formaldehyde and formaldehyde releasing preservatives are found in many personal care products, particularly in shampoos, liquid baby soaps, nail polish, nail glue, hair gel and etc.
DMDM Hydantoin
DMDM hydantoin is an organic compound belonging to a class of compounds known as hydantoins.
DMDM hydantoin works as a preservative because the released formaldehyde makes the environment less favourable to the microorganisms.
DMDM Hydantoin is found in lotion, sunscreen and make-up remover and is one of the least sensitizing of the FRPs.
Introduction-notes-classification-manufacturing process-outline-composition-sources of fragrances-EU Regulations for perfumes-natural and synthetic allergens to human
cosmetics - regulatory : Regulatory provisions related to cosmetics PV. Viji
REGULATORY PROVISIONS RELATED TO COSMETICS , REGULATORY PROVISIONS RELATING TO IMPORT OF COSMETICS , Application for registration certification for import cosmetics , Grant of registration certificate , Standards for imported cosmetics , REGULATORY PROVISIONS RELATING TO MANUFACTURE OF COSMETICS , REQUIREMENTS OF FACTORY PREMISES FOR MANUFACTURE OF COSMETICS , LOAN LICENCE
CONTROVERSIAL INGREDIENTS OF COSMETICS
Parabens are a set of chemicals which are extensively used as preservatives especially in cosmetics.
They can be discovered in shampoos, industrial moisturizers, shaving gels, topical/parental preparations, tanning solutions, toothpaste, and also in food additives.
Parabens are used to prevent microbial growth of the bacteria in cosmetics to maintain the customers health and maintain the integrity of the product.
Common parabens used are: methyl paraben, propyl paraben, ethyl paraben and butyl paraben.
Parabens will cause a range of reactions to those with allergies. They are notable to cause skin irritation and dermatitis, that could be a serious form of skin inflammation characterized by rashes, blisters and burning skin.
Parabens deeply penetrate the skin and disrupt the conventional functioning of hormones.
Dioxane
The compound 1,4-dioxane is a trace contaminant in some cosmetic products. It is not used as an ingredient in cosmetics, but may be present in extremely small amounts in some cosmetics.
1,4-dioxane forms as a byproduct during the manufacturing process of certain cosmetic ingredients.
These ingredients include certain detergents, foaming agents, emulsifiers, and solvents.
The compound is formed through a process called as ‘Ethyoxylation’, in which ethylene oxide, a known breast carcinogen is added to other chemicals to make them harsh.
Formaldehyde Liberators
Formaldehyde is a colorless, strong smelling gas used in a wide range of industries and products including building materials, cabinets furniture, walls and personal care products.
Formaldehyde and formaldehyde releasing preservatives are found in many personal care products, particularly in shampoos, liquid baby soaps, nail polish, nail glue, hair gel and etc.
DMDM Hydantoin
DMDM hydantoin is an organic compound belonging to a class of compounds known as hydantoins.
DMDM hydantoin works as a preservative because the released formaldehyde makes the environment less favourable to the microorganisms.
DMDM Hydantoin is found in lotion, sunscreen and make-up remover and is one of the least sensitizing of the FRPs.
Introduction-notes-classification-manufacturing process-outline-composition-sources of fragrances-EU Regulations for perfumes-natural and synthetic allergens to human
cosmetics - regulatory : Regulatory provisions related to cosmetics PV. Viji
REGULATORY PROVISIONS RELATED TO COSMETICS , REGULATORY PROVISIONS RELATING TO IMPORT OF COSMETICS , Application for registration certification for import cosmetics , Grant of registration certificate , Standards for imported cosmetics , REGULATORY PROVISIONS RELATING TO MANUFACTURE OF COSMETICS , REQUIREMENTS OF FACTORY PREMISES FOR MANUFACTURE OF COSMETICS , LOAN LICENCE
Controversial ingredients of Cosmetics - Parabens, Formaldehyde and formaldehyde liberators, 1,4 Dioxanes, Health concerns of controversial ingredients, Regulations of controversial ingredients, quaternium-15, DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, polyoxymethylene urea,
sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, bromopol and glyoxal, Alternatives of parabens, Vulnerable populations, How to avoid controversial ingredients
Herbal cosmetics are the preparations consisting of one or more herbs or processed herbs in specified quantities to provide specific cosmetic benefits.
These formulation include comminute or powered herbal substance , tinctures, extracts essential natural oils, expressed juices and processed exudates which are obtained by subjecting herbal substances to treatments such as extraction, distillation , expression , fractionation, fractionation ,purification or fermentation processes.
Herbal cosmetics are formulated ,using different cosmetic ingredients to from the base in which one or more herbal ingredients are used to cure various skin ailments .
REVIEW OF GUIDELINES FOR HERBAL COSMETICS BY PRIVATE BODIES LIKE COSMOS WITH ...Divya Pushp
COSMOS stands for Cosmetics Organic and Natural Standard.
Sets certification requirements for organic and natural cosmetics products in Europe.
The standard is recognized globally by the cosmetics industry.
Controversial ingredients of Cosmetics - Parabens, Formaldehyde and formaldehyde liberators, 1,4 Dioxanes, Health concerns of controversial ingredients, Regulations of controversial ingredients, quaternium-15, DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, polyoxymethylene urea,
sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, bromopol and glyoxal, Alternatives of parabens, Vulnerable populations, How to avoid controversial ingredients
Herbal cosmetics are the preparations consisting of one or more herbs or processed herbs in specified quantities to provide specific cosmetic benefits.
These formulation include comminute or powered herbal substance , tinctures, extracts essential natural oils, expressed juices and processed exudates which are obtained by subjecting herbal substances to treatments such as extraction, distillation , expression , fractionation, fractionation ,purification or fermentation processes.
Herbal cosmetics are formulated ,using different cosmetic ingredients to from the base in which one or more herbal ingredients are used to cure various skin ailments .
REVIEW OF GUIDELINES FOR HERBAL COSMETICS BY PRIVATE BODIES LIKE COSMOS WITH ...Divya Pushp
COSMOS stands for Cosmetics Organic and Natural Standard.
Sets certification requirements for organic and natural cosmetics products in Europe.
The standard is recognized globally by the cosmetics industry.
Definition, History, Notes in perfume, Classification of perfume, Aromatic sources, Manufacturing, Ingredients causing allergic reactions, attar, types of attar, difference between attar and perfume, reasons behind using perfume, leading brands of perfume.
Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aromatic compounds, fixatives and solvents used to give the human body, animal, food objects and living spaces a pleasant scent.
It has been used for centuries by mankind.
Perfumes are supposed to release a continuous pleasant.
Fragrance that will provide a long lasting feeling of freshness.
Initially it was only used for religious purpose but now it has become an ornament of sophistication for both men and women.
Fragrances – Mystic of Perfumes I Fragrances Insightselfcareveda
At Fragrances Insight, we delve into the captivating realm of perfumery, exploring the nuances of scent creation, the artistry behind perfume making, and the cultural significance of fragrances across the globe.
Join us on a journey through the olfactory landscape, where we uncover the secrets of renowned perfumers, discover the latest fragrance trends, and share insights into how different scents evoke unique sensations and evoke cherished memories.
Transport models : Permeability , solubility , charge state amd the ph partit...NishaN19p7504
this topic is all about influence of ph on drug solubilty and permeability , henderson hasselbalch equation , PH partition hypothesis and its deviations
The increased availability of biomedical data, particularly in the public domain, offers the opportunity to better understand human health and to develop effective therapeutics for a wide range of unmet medical needs. However, data scientists remain stymied by the fact that data remain hard to find and to productively reuse because data and their metadata i) are wholly inaccessible, ii) are in non-standard or incompatible representations, iii) do not conform to community standards, and iv) have unclear or highly restricted terms and conditions that preclude legitimate reuse. These limitations require a rethink on data can be made machine and AI-ready - the key motivation behind the FAIR Guiding Principles. Concurrently, while recent efforts have explored the use of deep learning to fuse disparate data into predictive models for a wide range of biomedical applications, these models often fail even when the correct answer is already known, and fail to explain individual predictions in terms that data scientists can appreciate. These limitations suggest that new methods to produce practical artificial intelligence are still needed.
In this talk, I will discuss our work in (1) building an integrative knowledge infrastructure to prepare FAIR and "AI-ready" data and services along with (2) neurosymbolic AI methods to improve the quality of predictions and to generate plausible explanations. Attention is given to standards, platforms, and methods to wrangle knowledge into simple, but effective semantic and latent representations, and to make these available into standards-compliant and discoverable interfaces that can be used in model building, validation, and explanation. Our work, and those of others in the field, creates a baseline for building trustworthy and easy to deploy AI models in biomedicine.
Bio
Dr. Michel Dumontier is the Distinguished Professor of Data Science at Maastricht University, founder and executive director of the Institute of Data Science, and co-founder of the FAIR (Findable, Accessible, Interoperable and Reusable) data principles. His research explores socio-technological approaches for responsible discovery science, which includes collaborative multi-modal knowledge graphs, privacy-preserving distributed data mining, and AI methods for drug discovery and personalized medicine. His work is supported through the Dutch National Research Agenda, the Netherlands Organisation for Scientific Research, Horizon Europe, the European Open Science Cloud, the US National Institutes of Health, and a Marie-Curie Innovative Training Network. He is the editor-in-chief for the journal Data Science and is internationally recognized for his contributions in bioinformatics, biomedical informatics, and semantic technologies including ontologies and linked data.
Professional air quality monitoring systems provide immediate, on-site data for analysis, compliance, and decision-making.
Monitor common gases, weather parameters, particulates.
(May 29th, 2024) Advancements in Intravital Microscopy- Insights for Preclini...Scintica Instrumentation
Intravital microscopy (IVM) is a powerful tool utilized to study cellular behavior over time and space in vivo. Much of our understanding of cell biology has been accomplished using various in vitro and ex vivo methods; however, these studies do not necessarily reflect the natural dynamics of biological processes. Unlike traditional cell culture or fixed tissue imaging, IVM allows for the ultra-fast high-resolution imaging of cellular processes over time and space and were studied in its natural environment. Real-time visualization of biological processes in the context of an intact organism helps maintain physiological relevance and provide insights into the progression of disease, response to treatments or developmental processes.
In this webinar we give an overview of advanced applications of the IVM system in preclinical research. IVIM technology is a provider of all-in-one intravital microscopy systems and solutions optimized for in vivo imaging of live animal models at sub-micron resolution. The system’s unique features and user-friendly software enables researchers to probe fast dynamic biological processes such as immune cell tracking, cell-cell interaction as well as vascularization and tumor metastasis with exceptional detail. This webinar will also give an overview of IVM being utilized in drug development, offering a view into the intricate interaction between drugs/nanoparticles and tissues in vivo and allows for the evaluation of therapeutic intervention in a variety of tissues and organs. This interdisciplinary collaboration continues to drive the advancements of novel therapeutic strategies.
Richard's entangled aventures in wonderlandRichard Gill
Since the loophole-free Bell experiments of 2020 and the Nobel prizes in physics of 2022, critics of Bell's work have retreated to the fortress of super-determinism. Now, super-determinism is a derogatory word - it just means "determinism". Palmer, Hance and Hossenfelder argue that quantum mechanics and determinism are not incompatible, using a sophisticated mathematical construction based on a subtle thinning of allowed states and measurements in quantum mechanics, such that what is left appears to make Bell's argument fail, without altering the empirical predictions of quantum mechanics. I think however that it is a smoke screen, and the slogan "lost in math" comes to my mind. I will discuss some other recent disproofs of Bell's theorem using the language of causality based on causal graphs. Causal thinking is also central to law and justice. I will mention surprising connections to my work on serial killer nurse cases, in particular the Dutch case of Lucia de Berk and the current UK case of Lucy Letby.
THE IMPORTANCE OF MARTIAN ATMOSPHERE SAMPLE RETURN.Sérgio Sacani
The return of a sample of near-surface atmosphere from Mars would facilitate answers to several first-order science questions surrounding the formation and evolution of the planet. One of the important aspects of terrestrial planet formation in general is the role that primary atmospheres played in influencing the chemistry and structure of the planets and their antecedents. Studies of the martian atmosphere can be used to investigate the role of a primary atmosphere in its history. Atmosphere samples would also inform our understanding of the near-surface chemistry of the planet, and ultimately the prospects for life. High-precision isotopic analyses of constituent gases are needed to address these questions, requiring that the analyses are made on returned samples rather than in situ.
Introduction:
RNA interference (RNAi) or Post-Transcriptional Gene Silencing (PTGS) is an important biological process for modulating eukaryotic gene expression.
It is highly conserved process of posttranscriptional gene silencing by which double stranded RNA (dsRNA) causes sequence-specific degradation of mRNA sequences.
dsRNA-induced gene silencing (RNAi) is reported in a wide range of eukaryotes ranging from worms, insects, mammals and plants.
This process mediates resistance to both endogenous parasitic and exogenous pathogenic nucleic acids, and regulates the expression of protein-coding genes.
What are small ncRNAs?
micro RNA (miRNA)
short interfering RNA (siRNA)
Properties of small non-coding RNA:
Involved in silencing mRNA transcripts.
Called “small” because they are usually only about 21-24 nucleotides long.
Synthesized by first cutting up longer precursor sequences (like the 61nt one that Lee discovered).
Silence an mRNA by base pairing with some sequence on the mRNA.
Discovery of siRNA?
The first small RNA:
In 1993 Rosalind Lee (Victor Ambros lab) was studying a non- coding gene in C. elegans, lin-4, that was involved in silencing of another gene, lin-14, at the appropriate time in the
development of the worm C. elegans.
Two small transcripts of lin-4 (22nt and 61nt) were found to be complementary to a sequence in the 3' UTR of lin-14.
Because lin-4 encoded no protein, she deduced that it must be these transcripts that are causing the silencing by RNA-RNA interactions.
Types of RNAi ( non coding RNA)
MiRNA
Length (23-25 nt)
Trans acting
Binds with target MRNA in mismatch
Translation inhibition
Si RNA
Length 21 nt.
Cis acting
Bind with target Mrna in perfect complementary sequence
Piwi-RNA
Length ; 25 to 36 nt.
Expressed in Germ Cells
Regulates trnasposomes activity
MECHANISM OF RNAI:
First the double-stranded RNA teams up with a protein complex named Dicer, which cuts the long RNA into short pieces.
Then another protein complex called RISC (RNA-induced silencing complex) discards one of the two RNA strands.
The RISC-docked, single-stranded RNA then pairs with the homologous mRNA and destroys it.
THE RISC COMPLEX:
RISC is large(>500kD) RNA multi- protein Binding complex which triggers MRNA degradation in response to MRNA
Unwinding of double stranded Si RNA by ATP independent Helicase
Active component of RISC is Ago proteins( ENDONUCLEASE) which cleave target MRNA.
DICER: endonuclease (RNase Family III)
Argonaute: Central Component of the RNA-Induced Silencing Complex (RISC)
One strand of the dsRNA produced by Dicer is retained in the RISC complex in association with Argonaute
ARGONAUTE PROTEIN :
1.PAZ(PIWI/Argonaute/ Zwille)- Recognition of target MRNA
2.PIWI (p-element induced wimpy Testis)- breaks Phosphodiester bond of mRNA.)RNAse H activity.
MiRNA:
The Double-stranded RNAs are naturally produced in eukaryotic cells during development, and they have a key role in regulating gene expression .
A brief information about the SCOP protein database used in bioinformatics.
The Structural Classification of Proteins (SCOP) database is a comprehensive and authoritative resource for the structural and evolutionary relationships of proteins. It provides a detailed and curated classification of protein structures, grouping them into families, superfamilies, and folds based on their structural and sequence similarities.
Richard's aventures in two entangled wonderlandsRichard Gill
Since the loophole-free Bell experiments of 2020 and the Nobel prizes in physics of 2022, critics of Bell's work have retreated to the fortress of super-determinism. Now, super-determinism is a derogatory word - it just means "determinism". Palmer, Hance and Hossenfelder argue that quantum mechanics and determinism are not incompatible, using a sophisticated mathematical construction based on a subtle thinning of allowed states and measurements in quantum mechanics, such that what is left appears to make Bell's argument fail, without altering the empirical predictions of quantum mechanics. I think however that it is a smoke screen, and the slogan "lost in math" comes to my mind. I will discuss some other recent disproofs of Bell's theorem using the language of causality based on causal graphs. Causal thinking is also central to law and justice. I will mention surprising connections to my work on serial killer nurse cases, in particular the Dutch case of Lucia de Berk and the current UK case of Lucy Letby.
1. PERFUMES
PRESENTED BY :
NISHA.N
M PHARM 1st SEM
DEPT. OF PHARMACEUTICS
SUBMITTED TO :
MRS .SHEEBA .F.R
DEPT OF
PHARMACEUTICS
MALLIGE COLLEGE OF
PHARMACY
1/41
2. CONTENTS
1. Evolutionary of perfumery
2. History of perfumes
3. What is perfume ? And its
advantages and disadvantages .
4. Composition of perfumes
5. Notes in perfumes
6. Classification of perfumes
7. Manufacturing process of perfumes
8. Perfumes ingredients listed as
allergens in EU regulation
2/41
3. EVOLUTION OF PERFUMERY
1. Majority of the animals and human beings
have sense of smell . For example : Dog
2. It is because of sense of smell that dog is
used for detecting drugs , explosives etc by
smell .
3. Anew born baby can identify his / her
mother by smell .
4. Use of fragrant materials is associated with
human beings from ancient materials
though with the complexity of religion and
mysticism ( ill – defined spiritual belief ) .
5. In India “ Havan “ used to be performed
to propitiate materials .
6. “ Havan Samigri “ used to contain fragrant
materials .
3/41
4. 7. Performance of “ Havan “ used to fill the
environment with fragrances .
8. Perfume , as we know today , would not
have been possible without alchemy (
ancient art of converting raw material into
a perfect and purified form through a
series of transformations ) .
9. Alchemy came into its own being in
medieval Europe but flourished in
seventeenth century .
10.Alchemist deserve credit for reforming the
process of distillation .
11. Some scientist were notable among them
Issac Newton also practiced alchemy .
12. Frenchmen Jacque Passy developed the
technique of enfleurage .
4/41
5. 13. In the beginning of eighteenth century , in
london , one Mr . Parry started sales of
perfumes and cosmetics along with
medicines .
14. In the year ( 1906-1956 ) Ahmed
Soliman was known as “ Cairo s perfume
king “ .
5/41
6. HISTORY OF PERFUMES
1) The Egyptians were the first who used perfume
for personal enjoyment, but the production of
perfume was reserved for the priests and they used
it in religious purpose.
2) The Greek used an extraordinary amount of
perfume and for each part of the body they used a
different fragrance for hygiene .
3) The history of the Arabs is the fusion of art and
science.
4) Two talented Arabian chemists - Jābir ibn Hayyān
and Al - Kindi established the perfume industry.
5) The Romans used perfume as a part of luxury .
6/41
7. 6) The oldest perfumery was discovered on the
island of Cyprus 4,000 years ago indicating
that perfume manufacturing was on an
industrial scale.
7) The Hungarians introduced the first modern
perfume, made of scented oils blended in an
alcohol solution at the command of Queen
Elizabeth of Hungary.
8) France is the birthplace of modern
perfumery. France provided to grow aromatic
plants for perfume industry with raw
materials.
9) Even today, France remains the centre of the
European perfume design and trade.
10) England and Germany also contributed a lot
in modernization of perfumery. 7/41
8. WHAT IS PERFUME ?
1) Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or
aromatic compounds, fixatives and solvents used
to give the human body, animal, food objects and
living spaces a pleasant scent.
2) It has been used for centuries by mankind.
3) Perfumes are supposed to release a continuous
pleasant fragrance that will provide a long lasting
feeling of freshness.
4) Initially it was only used for religious purpose
but now it has become an ornament of
sophistication for both men and women .
8/41
9. ADVANTAGES :
1) Enjoy the wafting of a well – performed person
passing by side .
2) Smell more pleasing .
DISADVANTAGES :
1) Some VOCS (Volatile organic compounds), such as
formaldehyde , ethanol, and d- limonene , cause eye , nose
, and throat irritation , difficulty in breathing , allergy
symptoms and headaches .
2) Chemicals may irritate others , especially in tight spaces.
3) Contact dermatitis , an allergic reaction in the skin can
occur.
4) Diethly phthalate ( DEP) an irritant and suspended
hormone distrupt that is absorbed through the skin and can
accumulate in human fat tissue .
9/41
10. COMPOSITION OF PERFUMES
1. Essential oils : Derived from natural aromatic
plant extracts and synthetic aromatic chemicals.
Ex : Linalool , geraniol , citrol etc .
2. Fixatives : Natural or synthetic substance used
to reduce the evaporation rate .
Ex : Benzyl alcohol etc .
3. Solvents : The liquid in which the perfume oil
is dissolved in is usually 98% ethanol and 2%
water . Alcohol allows fragrance to spread
along with it and doesn’t permit microbial
growth in the perfume .
Ex : Water , Ethanol , Methanol etc .
10/41
11. NOTES IN PERFUMES
1) Perfume is described in a musical
metaphor as having three sets of notes,
making the harmonious scent accord .
2) These notes are created carefully with
knowledge of the evaporation process of
the perfume.
3) The three notes are:
• Top notes
• Middle notes
• Base notes
4) Each of these levels, however, has its
own primary purpose.
11/41
13. 1) TOP NOTES
1) They are generally the lightest of all
notes and recognized immediately after
application. Top notes consist of small,
light molecules with high volatility that
evaporate quickly.
2) Common fragrances of top notes
include citrus (lemon, orange zest),
light fruits (grape, berries) and herbs
(clary sage, lavender).
13/41
14. 2) MIDDLE NOTES
1) The middle notes, or the heart notes,
make an appearance once the top notes
evaporate.
2) The middle note compounds form the
"heart" or main body of a perfume and act
to mask the often unpleasant initial
impression of base notes, which become
more pleasant with time.
3) Common fragrances of middle notes
includes rose, lemon, lavender, nutmeg and
jasmine .
14/41
15. 1) Base notes or bottom or dry notes appear
while middle notes are fading.
2) The base and middle notes together are
the main theme of a perfume. Base notes
bring depth and solidity to a perfume.
3) Common fragrances of base notes
include sandalwood, vanilla, amber and
musk
3) BASE NOTES
15/41
16. CLASSIFICATION OF PERFUMES
Perfumes are classified into five major groups on
the basis of concentration of fragrance and duration
of lasting .
16/41
18. Perfumes can further be classified into
following classes
1) Traditional
2) Modern
18/41
19. TRADITIONAL
1) Single floral
fragrance that are dominated by a scent from
one particular flower , in french called
soliflore ( eg: serge lutens’ sa majesta la rose
which is dominated by rose ) .
2) Floral bouquet :
containing the fragrance of several flowers
in a scent .
Eg. Amber , wood , leather , chypre ,
fougere
19/41
20. MODERN
1.Bright floral: Fragrance from one or
several flowers.
e.g. Estee lauder’s Beautiful
2. Green: Fragrance from cut grass or leaf.
a light or more modern interpretation of the
chypre .
e.g. Calvin Klein’s Eternity
3. Aquatic: A very clean smell reminiscent
of ocean.
Eg: Christian dior’s dune .
20/41
21. 4 ) Citrus: Has freshening effect.
E.g. Faberge Brut .
5 ) Fruity: Aromas of fruits other than
citrus.
E.g. Ginestet Botrytis .
6) Gourmand: Scent with edible or
desert
like qualities.
E.g. Thierry Mugler’s Angel .
21/41
22. Based on aromatic sources
Fragrances used in perfume can be found
from following sources:
a ) Plant Source:
Barks, flowers, blossoms, fruits, resin,
roots, seeds, woods etc.
b ) Animal Source:
Musk, civet, honeycomb etc.
c ) Synthetic Source:
Calone, synthetic terpenes etc.
22/41
24. I. Collection:
Before manufacturing process begins the
sources
of suitable fragrances are collected in the
manufacturing centre.
II. Extraction:
Oils are extracted from plants and other
substances by several methods like:
a. Steam distillation:
steam is passed through plant materials held
in a still, whereby the essential oil turns to
gas. This gas is then passed through tubes,
cooled, liquefied and collected.
24/41
26. b. Solvent extraction:
The flower parts are dissolved in benzene
or petrolatum that retains the fragrance of
the flower.
Alcohol is used to dissolve the fragrance
and heated to obtain it after
evaporation of alcohol.
26/41
29. d. Expression:
The citrus fruits or plants are manually or
mechanically pressed until all the oil is
squeezed out.
1) Manual extraction
2) Steel Pick Expression
3) Through Sponge’ Expression
29/41
30. e) maceration:
1) The plant material is soaked in vegetable
oil , heated and strained.
2) This process creates more of infused oil ,
rather than essential oil.
3) These produced oils can be used for
massage
111. Blending :
Once the perfume oils are collected, they are
ready to be blended together according to a
formula determined by a master in the field,
known as a "nose.”
After the scent has been created, it is mixed
with alcohol.
Most full perfumes are made of about 10-20%
perfume oils dissolved in alcohol and a trace of
water. 30/41
32. I V . Aging :
Fine perfume is often aged for several months
or even years after blending to ensure that the
correct scent has been achieved
32/41
33. PERFUME INGREDIENTS LISTED AS
ALLERGNS IN EU REGULATION
The cosmetic regulation 1223/2009 lists
the 26 most known allergic substances .
The substances must appear on the label
of your cosmetic product when present
In the finished formula .
ALLERGEN
An allergen is commonly defined as “ any
substance , often a protein , that induces
an allergy “ .
33/41
36. 1) Cosmetics directive required that the
presence of any of these 26 substances be
indicated in the list of ingredients when its
concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave on
products and 0.01% in rinse off products.
2) Such labelling allows patients who are
allergic to one or more of these 26
fragrance chemicals to avoid products
containing them .
List A: Fragrance chemicals, which
according to existing knowledge, are most
frequently reported and well-recognised
consumer allergens.
Amyl cinnamal
Amylcinnamyl alcohol
Benzyl alcohol
36/41
40. QUESTIONS
1) Classify perfumes used in cosmetic
industry with examples ? ( June 2019)
2) Classify perfumes . Enumerate
perfume ingredients listed as
allergens in EU regulations ? ( May
2018 )
40/41