This document provides an overview of perfumes. It defines perfumes as mixtures of fragrant essential oils, fixatives, and solvents used to provide a pleasant scent. It discusses the history of perfumes and describes their composition, classification, ingredients, allergens, and proper storage. The key information presented includes the three main components of perfumes - essential oils, fixatives, and solvents - as well as the top, middle, and base notes that provide perfumes' scents.

1. PERFUMES
PRESENTED BY:
ALISHA BANSAL
&
M.PHARM(PHARMACEUTICS)
1ST YEAR

2. INTRODUCTION
• The word perfume used today is derived from the Latin word “per
fumum”, meaning through smoke.
• Perfumery, or the art of making perfumes, began in ancient
Mesopotamia and Egypt but it was developed and further refined
by the Romans and Persians.
• In ancient times, dabs of fragrance helped a person smell more
pleasing.
• Nowadays, we use fragrances in the form of perfumes, deodorants,
lotions, hair products, soaps and cosmetics to please, attract
people.

3. DEFINITION:
• Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aromatic
compounds, fixatives and solvents used to give the human
body, animal, food objects and living spaces a pleasant
scent.
• Perfumes are supposed to release a continuous pleasant
fragrance that will provide a long lasting feeling of
freshness. Fragrance substances can be derived from
natural sources or chemical synthesis.
• Initially it was only used for religious purpose but now it
has become an ornament of sophistication for both men
and women. Fragrances provide the consumer with a
desired fresh smell or mask unpleasant odors.
• Fragrance substances are also used in aromatherapy and
are sometimes present in herbal products.

4. COMPOSITION OF PERFUME
• Perfumes are mainly composed of –
1. Essential oils: Derived from natural aromatic plant
extracts and/or synthetic aromatic chemicals. E.g.
limonene, linalool, geraniol, citral etc.
2. Fixatives: Natural or synthetic substances used to
reduce the evaporation rate. E.g. benzyl benzoate,
benzyl alcohol etc.
3. Solvents: The liquid in which the perfume oil is
dissolved in is usually 98% ethanol and 2% water.
Alcohol allows fragrance to spread along with it and
does not permit microbial growth in the perfume.

5. Types of flavorings used in foods
1. Natural flavouring substances: They are
obtained from plant or animal raw materials,
by physical, microbiological or enzymatic
processes.
2. Nature-identical flavouring substances: They
are obtained by synthesis or isolated through
chemical processes. They cannot contain any
artificial flavoring substances.
3. Artificial flavoring substances: They are not
indentified in a natural product intended for
human use.

6. Natural Perfumers
• Ambrette seed oil
• Coco absolute
• Coffee absolute
• Pink lotus absolute

7. CHEMICAL ODOR
• Allyl hexanoate: Pineapple
• Benzaldehyde: Bitter almond
• Cinnamic aldehyde: Cinnamon
• Ethyl propionate: Fruity
• Limonene: Orange
• Methyl salicylate: Wintergreen

8. Natural Flavorant
According to U.S CFR, natural flavorant are
described as the essential oil, oleoresin, essence or
extractive, protein hydrolysate , distillate or any
product of roasting, heating, or enzymolysis , which
contains the flavoring constituents derived from a
spice, fruit or fruit juice, vegetable or vegetable
juice, edible yeast, herb, bark, bud, root, leaf or any
other edible portions of a plant, meat, seafood,
poultry, eggs, dairy products or fermentation
products thereof, whose primary function in food is
flavoring rather than nutritional.

9. Natural Flavor
• UK Food Law defines a natural flavor as a
flavoring substance(s) which is(are) obtained by
physical, enzymatic or microbiological processes,
from material of vegetable or animal origin
subjected to a process normally used in preparing
food for human consumption.
• Perfume consists mostly of chemicals called
volatile organic compounds(VOCs).
• An aroma compound (odorant, aroma, fragrance,
flavor) is a chemical compound that has a smell
or odor.

10. A chemical compound has a
smell/odor when two conditions are
met:
1. The compound needs to be volatile, so that it
can be transported to the olfactory system.
2. It should be in sufficiently high concentration
to be able to interact with one or more
olfactory receptors.

11. Advantages & Disadvantages
ADVANTAGES
• Enjoy the wafting fragrance of
a well perfumed person
passing by the side.
• Smell more pleasing.
DISADVANTAGES
• Chemicals may irritate others.
• Contact dermatitis, an allergic
reaction in the skin can occur.
• Some VOCs (formaldehyde,
ethanol, d-limonene) may
cause eye, nose, throat
irritation.
• DEP(diethylphthalate) is an
irritant and suspected
hormone disrupter that is
absorbed through the skin.

12. AROMA COMPOUNDS
• Aroma compounds are classified on the basis of
functional groups as:
Alcohols
Aldehydes
Amines
Esters
Ethers
Ketones
Lactones
Terpenes
Thiols

13. AROMATICS SOURCE
• Bark, seeds,
woods,resins
• Flowers and
blossoms
• Fruits
• Leaves and twigs
PLANT
SOURCE
• Ambergris
• Castoreum
• Civet
• Honeycomb
• Musk
ANIMAL
SOURCES
• Linalool and
coumarin are
synthesized from
terpenes
• Orchid scents
SYNTHETIC
SOURCES

14. Method Of Preparation
• Essential oils can be extracted using a variety of
methods such as :
 Steam distillation- used especially to purify liquids that
are not very volatile and are immiscible with water.
 Maceration- flavor compounds and phenolic materials are
leached .
 Expression- separation process of aromatic compounds
from raw materials.
 Enflurage- Enfleurage is a process that uses odorless fats
that are solid at room temperature to capture the fragrant
compounds exuded by plants.

17. FRAGRANCE NOTES
• Perfume is described in a musical metaphor as having three sets of
‘notes’, making the harmonious scent accord.
• These notes are created carefully with knowledge of evaporation
proces of the perfume.
TOP NOTE
The scents that are perceived immediately on application of a
perfume. Top notes consist of small light molecules that evaporate
quickly. Also called the head notes.
MIDDLE NOTES
The middle note compounds form the “heart” or main body of
perfume and act to mask the often unpleasant initial impression of
base notes, which become more pleasant with time. They are also
known as heart notes.

18. BASE NOTES
The scent of a perfume that appears close to the departure of the
middle notes. The base and middle notes together are the main theme
of a perfume. Base notes bring depth and solidity to a perfume.
Compounds of this class of scents are typically rich and “deep” and are
ussually not perceived until 30 minutes after application.

19. Traditional Classification
Perfumes
Single floral
Floral
bouquet
Amber Wood Leather Chypre Fougere

20. • Single floral: Fragrances that are dominated by a scent
from one particular flower. Ex: daisy, sunflower.
• Floral Bouquet: containing the combination of several
flowers in a scent.
• Ambery: A large fragrances class featuring the scents of
vanilla and animal scents together with flowers and
woods. Can be enhanced by camphorous oils and incense
resins.
• Woody: Fragrances that are dominated by woody scents,
topically of sandalwood and cedar. PATCHOULI, with its
camphorceous smell, is commonly found in these
perfumes. Ex: sandalwood(chandan)

21. • Leather: A family of fagrances which features the scents
of honey, tobacco, wood, and wood tars in its middle or
base notes and a scent that alludes to leather.
• Chypre: French meaning is cyprus. This includes
fragrances built on a similar accord consisting of
bergamot, oakmoss, patchouli and labdanum. This family
of fragrances is named after a perfume by Francois Coty.
• Fougere: Means fern in French, built on a base of
lavender, coumarin, and oakmass. Many men’s
fragrances belong to this family of fragrances, which is
characterised by its sharp herbaceous and woody scent.

22. Modern Classification
perfumes
Bright
floral
Green
Oceanic/
Ozone
Citrus or
fruity
floral fresh oriental woody fougere

23. • Bright Floral: Combining the traditional single
Floral and Floral Bouquet categories.
• Green: a lighter and modern interpretation of
the chypre type.
• Oceanic/Ozone: The newest category in perfume
history, a very clean, modern smell leading to
many of the modern androgynous perfumes.
• Citrus or Fruity: An old fragrances family that
untill recently consisted mainly of ‘freshening’
due to the low tenacity of citrus scents.

24. Classification based on
CONCENTRATION
Type % Aromatic compounds
Perfume extract 15-40%
Eau de Perfume(EdP) 10-20%
Eau de Toilette(EdT) 5-15%
Eau de Cologne(EdC) 3-8%

25. How can fragrance substance become
skin allergens?
• To cause a skin allergy, a certain minimum amount of
the fragrance substance must penetrate the skin and
attach to a skin protein. Only once the fragrance
substance is attached to a skin protein can it provoke
a cascade of events in our immune system which
ultimately ends in allergy symptoms.
• Skin allergy to fragrance ingredients occurs when an
individuals skin has been exposed to a certain
minimum dose of a fragrance allergen.
• The symptoms are redness, swelling, basically
described as ‘skin rash’.

26. Perfumes Ingredients listed as allergens in
EU regulation
• The Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009 lists the 26
most known allergic substances.
• These substances must appear on the label of your
cosmetic product when present in the finished
formula.
ALLERGEN
An allergen is commonly defined as “any substance,
often a protein, that induces an allergy.”

27. Conti…
• Cosmetics directive required that the
presence of any of these 26 substances be
indicated in the list of ingredients when its
concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave on
products and 0.01% in rinse off products.
• Such labelling allows patients who are allergic
to one or more of these 26 fragrance
chemicals to avoid products containing them.

28. Perfumes Ingredients listed as
allergens in EU regulation
• List A: Fragrance chemicals, which according to existing knowledge, are most
frequently reported and well-recognised consumer allergens.
Amyl cinnamal
Amylcinnamyl alcohol
Benzyl alcohol
Benzyl salicylate
Cinnamyl alcohol
Cinnamal
Citral
Coumarin
Eugenol
Geraniol
Hydroxycitronellal
Hydroxymethylpentyl-cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde
Isoeugenol

29. • List B: Fragrance chemicals, which are less frequently
reported and thus less documented as
consumer allergens.
Anisyl alcohol
Benzyl benzoate
Benzyl cinnamate
Citronellol
Farnesol
Hexyl cinnamaldehyde
Lilial
d-Limonene
Linalool
Methyl heptine carbonate
3-Methyl-4-(2,6,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-yl)-3-
buten-2-one

30. STORAGE OF PERFUMES
• Fragrance compounds in perfumes degrades or
break down if stored improperly in the presence of
heat, light and oxygen.
• An open bottle will keep its aroma intact for several
years, as long as it is well stored.
• Perfumes are best preserved when kept in light-tight
aluminum bottles and are refrigerated at a relatively
low temperatures between 3-7◦C.
• Sprays have the advantage of isolating fragrance
inside a bottle and preventing it from mixing with
dust, skin, and detritus(waste or debris) which
would degrade and alter the quality of perfume.