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Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 1
A Seminar as a part of curricular requirement
for I year M. Pharm II semester
Presented by
B VENKATESH
(Reg. No. 20L81S0301)
Under the guidance
Miss. HIMA UDAYA SREE
M. Pharm
Assistant Professor ,
Dept. of Pharmaceutics
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Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 2
1. Introduction
2. Notes in perfume
3. Classification
4. Sources of Fragrances
5. Manufacturing Process
6. Basic composition
7. Ingredients causing Allergic Reaction
8. EU Regulation
9. Applications of perfumes
10. References
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Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 3
Attar Perfumes
Natural Natural +synthetic
No use of alcohol Alcohol is used as solvent
Essential oils are separated from
flower in a closed vessel
Separation process is done in both
open and closed vessel
Generally Manufacturing by water
distillation
Manufacturing by solvent
evaporation ,steam distillation ,
effleurage etc..
Long lasting evaporation Evaporation is faster than attar
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SIRO- DSIR
Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 4
• Fragrances are among the oldest cosmetic products .
• The word “Perfume” comes from the Latin word “Per fume” which
means “through smoke”.
• Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aromatic
compounds, fixatives and solvents used to give the human body,
animal, food objects and living spaces a pleasant scent
• It is usually in liquid form and used to give a pleasant scent to a
person's body.
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SIRO- DSIR
Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 5
• Perfumes may have been first use Egyptians using scented oil at
least 5000 years ago, letter on followed by the ancient Chinese,
Hindus, Arabs, Greeks,& Romans.
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Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 6
• When we inhale the odorant molecules of a perfume, it not only
creates the sensation of odour but also creates emotions and
experiences associated with it.
• For instance, we focus on the pleasant childhood memories
associated with the smell of vanilla.
• Stimulation of hippocampus causes secretion of growth hormone,
sex hormone and neurotransmitters.
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Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 7
• Another reason behind perfume use is to increase ones
attractiveness in the eyes of other people.
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Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 8
RIPER
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Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 9
Top notes Middle notes Base notes
•Consists of small, light
molecules with high volatility that
evaporate quickly.
•Its main body of
perfume.
• Act to mask the
unpleasant of base notes
•Base notes appear while
middle notes are fading.
•Base note bring depth $
solidity to a perfume.
Eg;citrus. Eg;Rose,lemon,nutmeg. Eg; Sandal wood ,vanilla.
Conti..
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Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 10
• Perfumes are classified five major groups on the basis of
concentration of fragrance and duration of lasting. They are,
1. Perfume (parfume)
2. Eau de Parfume (EDP)
3. Eau de toilette (EDT)
4. Eau de cologne (EDC)
5. Eau fraiche (EF).
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Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
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Class % of aromatic compound Duration (hours)
Par fume (perfume) 20-30 6-8
Eau de Par fume (EDP) 15-20 4-5
Eau de toilette (EDT) 5-15 2-3
Eau de cologne (EDC) 2-4 2
Eau fraiche (EF). 1-3 2
Conti..
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Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 12
1.Bright floral (fragrance
from many flowers)
lilly, rose.
2.Green (floral fragrance
from cut grasses or leaf)
3.Aquatic ( A clean smell
reminiscent of ocean)
4.Citrus (Has freshing
effects.)
5.Fruity (Aromas of
fruits other than citrus.)
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K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721
Plant Animal Synthetic
Bark Civet Calone
Flowers Honeycomb Terpenes
Blossom Deer musk Argumens
Resins Ambergris Aldehydes
Roots Hyraceum Amber
Seed amyris
Wood etc.
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Collection
Extraction
Blending
Aging
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1.Essential oils:
Derived from natural aromatic plant extracts and/or synthetic
aromatic chemicals.
E.g. limonene, linalool, geraniol, citral etc.
2. Fixatives:
Natural or synthetic substances used to reduce the evaporation rate.
E.g. benzyl benzoate, benzyl alcohol etc.
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Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
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3. Solvents:
• The liquid in which the perfume oil is dissolved in is usually 98%
ethanol and 2% water.
• Alcohol allows fragrance to spread along with it and does not permit
microbial growth in the perfume.
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Ingredients Use Side effects
Acetone Solvent Inhalation cause dryness of
mouth & throat
Ethyl Acetate Solvent Defatting effect on skin &
may cause drying & cracking
Benzyl alcohol Fixative Skin irritation ,redness ,pain
Benzyl benzoate Fixative (balsam odur) Skin irritation like- blisters
Itching, redness.
Sandal wood Fragrance Hypersensitivity.
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Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 18
• In 1999, a set of 26 fragrance allergens with a well-recognised
potential to cause allergy had been idenfentified, for which
information should be provided to consumers about their presence in
cosmetic products.
• On this basis, the Cosmetics directive required that the presence any
of these 26 substances be indicated in the list of ingredients when its
concentration exceeds 0.001 % in leave-on products and 0.01 % in
rinse-off products.
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• The SCCS opinion lists a number of individual substances and
natural extracts considered as ‘established contact allergens in
humans, ‘established contact allergens in animals’ or ‘likely contact
allergens by combination of evidence’.
• The selection is made based on a comprehensive screen of available
clinical and animal data, paired with computer-based SAR modelling
where appropriate.
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Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 20
• From the few population-based studies, it can be estimated that the
frequency of contact allergy to fragrance ingredients in the general
population in Europe is 1-3%.
Conti..
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K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 21
• The present opinion by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety
(SCCS) updates a 1999 opinion by the Scientific Committee on Cosmetic
Products and Non-Food Products (SCCNFP) using a systematic and critical
review of the scientific literature to identify fragrance allergens, including
natural extracts, relevant to consumers
• The evidence was evaluated according to clearly defined criteria and the
substances were then categorized as (i) established contact allergens (in
humans or animals), (ii) likely contact allergens or (iii) possible contact
allergens.
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Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 22
• Perfumes Used in Industrialized Society
• Household Products
• Personal Products
• Agricultural Products
• Perfumes for Soaps
• Synthetic Detergents
• Incense and Fumigants
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Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
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Conti..
• Paints and Polishes
• Other Household Products
• Perfumed Disinfectants
• Perfuming Lipstick and Nail Lacquer
• Hair Preparation Perfumes , Perfumed Aerosols .
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Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 24
• Poucher’s Perfume ,Cosmetics & Soap ,10th Edition ,Edited by
Hildy Butler.
• http://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/
opinions_layman/perfume-allergies/en/about- perfume-
allergies.htm#29
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Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 25

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PERFUMES AND EU REGULATION

  • 1. RIPER AUTONOMOUS NAAC & NBA (UG) SIRO- DSIR Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 1 A Seminar as a part of curricular requirement for I year M. Pharm II semester Presented by B VENKATESH (Reg. No. 20L81S0301) Under the guidance Miss. HIMA UDAYA SREE M. Pharm Assistant Professor , Dept. of Pharmaceutics
  • 2. RIPER AUTONOMOUS NAAC & NBA (UG) SIRO- DSIR Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 2 1. Introduction 2. Notes in perfume 3. Classification 4. Sources of Fragrances 5. Manufacturing Process 6. Basic composition 7. Ingredients causing Allergic Reaction 8. EU Regulation 9. Applications of perfumes 10. References
  • 3. RIPER AUTONOMOUS NAAC & NBA (UG) SIRO- DSIR Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 3 Attar Perfumes Natural Natural +synthetic No use of alcohol Alcohol is used as solvent Essential oils are separated from flower in a closed vessel Separation process is done in both open and closed vessel Generally Manufacturing by water distillation Manufacturing by solvent evaporation ,steam distillation , effleurage etc.. Long lasting evaporation Evaporation is faster than attar
  • 4. RIPER AUTONOMOUS NAAC & NBA (UG) SIRO- DSIR Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 4 • Fragrances are among the oldest cosmetic products . • The word “Perfume” comes from the Latin word “Per fume” which means “through smoke”. • Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aromatic compounds, fixatives and solvents used to give the human body, animal, food objects and living spaces a pleasant scent • It is usually in liquid form and used to give a pleasant scent to a person's body.
  • 5. RIPER AUTONOMOUS NAAC & NBA (UG) SIRO- DSIR Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 5 • Perfumes may have been first use Egyptians using scented oil at least 5000 years ago, letter on followed by the ancient Chinese, Hindus, Arabs, Greeks,& Romans.
  • 6. RIPER AUTONOMOUS NAAC & NBA (UG) SIRO- DSIR Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 6 • When we inhale the odorant molecules of a perfume, it not only creates the sensation of odour but also creates emotions and experiences associated with it. • For instance, we focus on the pleasant childhood memories associated with the smell of vanilla. • Stimulation of hippocampus causes secretion of growth hormone, sex hormone and neurotransmitters.
  • 7. RIPER AUTONOMOUS NAAC & NBA (UG) SIRO- DSIR Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 7 • Another reason behind perfume use is to increase ones attractiveness in the eyes of other people.
  • 8. RIPER AUTONOMOUS NAAC & NBA (UG) SIRO- DSIR Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 8
  • 9. RIPER AUTONOMOUS NAAC & NBA (UG) SIRO- DSIR Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 9 Top notes Middle notes Base notes •Consists of small, light molecules with high volatility that evaporate quickly. •Its main body of perfume. • Act to mask the unpleasant of base notes •Base notes appear while middle notes are fading. •Base note bring depth $ solidity to a perfume. Eg;citrus. Eg;Rose,lemon,nutmeg. Eg; Sandal wood ,vanilla. Conti..
  • 10. RIPER AUTONOMOUS NAAC & NBA (UG) SIRO- DSIR Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 10 • Perfumes are classified five major groups on the basis of concentration of fragrance and duration of lasting. They are, 1. Perfume (parfume) 2. Eau de Parfume (EDP) 3. Eau de toilette (EDT) 4. Eau de cologne (EDC) 5. Eau fraiche (EF).
  • 11. RIPER AUTONOMOUS NAAC & NBA (UG) SIRO- DSIR Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 11 Class % of aromatic compound Duration (hours) Par fume (perfume) 20-30 6-8 Eau de Par fume (EDP) 15-20 4-5 Eau de toilette (EDT) 5-15 2-3 Eau de cologne (EDC) 2-4 2 Eau fraiche (EF). 1-3 2 Conti..
  • 12. RIPER AUTONOMOUS NAAC & NBA (UG) SIRO- DSIR Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 12 1.Bright floral (fragrance from many flowers) lilly, rose. 2.Green (floral fragrance from cut grasses or leaf) 3.Aquatic ( A clean smell reminiscent of ocean) 4.Citrus (Has freshing effects.) 5.Fruity (Aromas of fruits other than citrus.)
  • 13. RIPER AUTONOMOUS NAAC & NBA (UG) SIRO- DSIR Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 Plant Animal Synthetic Bark Civet Calone Flowers Honeycomb Terpenes Blossom Deer musk Argumens Resins Ambergris Aldehydes Roots Hyraceum Amber Seed amyris Wood etc.
  • 14. RIPER AUTONOMOUS NAAC & NBA (UG) SIRO- DSIR Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 14 Collection Extraction Blending Aging
  • 15. RIPER AUTONOMOUS NAAC & NBA (UG) SIRO- DSIR Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 15 1.Essential oils: Derived from natural aromatic plant extracts and/or synthetic aromatic chemicals. E.g. limonene, linalool, geraniol, citral etc. 2. Fixatives: Natural or synthetic substances used to reduce the evaporation rate. E.g. benzyl benzoate, benzyl alcohol etc.
  • 16. RIPER AUTONOMOUS NAAC & NBA (UG) SIRO- DSIR Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 16 3. Solvents: • The liquid in which the perfume oil is dissolved in is usually 98% ethanol and 2% water. • Alcohol allows fragrance to spread along with it and does not permit microbial growth in the perfume.
  • 17. RIPER AUTONOMOUS NAAC & NBA (UG) SIRO- DSIR Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 17 Ingredients Use Side effects Acetone Solvent Inhalation cause dryness of mouth & throat Ethyl Acetate Solvent Defatting effect on skin & may cause drying & cracking Benzyl alcohol Fixative Skin irritation ,redness ,pain Benzyl benzoate Fixative (balsam odur) Skin irritation like- blisters Itching, redness. Sandal wood Fragrance Hypersensitivity.
  • 18. RIPER AUTONOMOUS NAAC & NBA (UG) SIRO- DSIR Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 18 • In 1999, a set of 26 fragrance allergens with a well-recognised potential to cause allergy had been idenfentified, for which information should be provided to consumers about their presence in cosmetic products. • On this basis, the Cosmetics directive required that the presence any of these 26 substances be indicated in the list of ingredients when its concentration exceeds 0.001 % in leave-on products and 0.01 % in rinse-off products.
  • 19. RIPER AUTONOMOUS NAAC & NBA (UG) SIRO- DSIR Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 19 • The SCCS opinion lists a number of individual substances and natural extracts considered as ‘established contact allergens in humans, ‘established contact allergens in animals’ or ‘likely contact allergens by combination of evidence’. • The selection is made based on a comprehensive screen of available clinical and animal data, paired with computer-based SAR modelling where appropriate.
  • 20. RIPER AUTONOMOUS NAAC & NBA (UG) SIRO- DSIR Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 20 • From the few population-based studies, it can be estimated that the frequency of contact allergy to fragrance ingredients in the general population in Europe is 1-3%. Conti..
  • 21. RIPER AUTONOMOUS NAAC & NBA (UG) SIRO- DSIR Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 21 • The present opinion by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) updates a 1999 opinion by the Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and Non-Food Products (SCCNFP) using a systematic and critical review of the scientific literature to identify fragrance allergens, including natural extracts, relevant to consumers • The evidence was evaluated according to clearly defined criteria and the substances were then categorized as (i) established contact allergens (in humans or animals), (ii) likely contact allergens or (iii) possible contact allergens.
  • 22. RIPER AUTONOMOUS NAAC & NBA (UG) SIRO- DSIR Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 22 • Perfumes Used in Industrialized Society • Household Products • Personal Products • Agricultural Products • Perfumes for Soaps • Synthetic Detergents • Incense and Fumigants
  • 23. RIPER AUTONOMOUS NAAC & NBA (UG) SIRO- DSIR Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 23 Conti.. • Paints and Polishes • Other Household Products • Perfumed Disinfectants • Perfuming Lipstick and Nail Lacquer • Hair Preparation Perfumes , Perfumed Aerosols .
  • 24. RIPER AUTONOMOUS NAAC & NBA (UG) SIRO- DSIR Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 24 • Poucher’s Perfume ,Cosmetics & Soap ,10th Edition ,Edited by Hildy Butler. • http://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/ opinions_layman/perfume-allergies/en/about- perfume- allergies.htm#29
  • 25. RIPER AUTONOMOUS NAAC & NBA (UG) SIRO- DSIR Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 25