This document discusses natural hair colorants. It begins by defining hair colorants and describing the different types of hair coloring systems. It then introduces several natural plant-based colorants like hibiscus, turmeric, annatto seeds, beet root, cochineal, henna, indigo, rose petals, marigold, pomegranate, chamomile, madder and myrobalan. For each natural colorant, it provides the botanical name, family, description and key chemical constituents responsible for the color. It also compares the advantages and disadvantages of natural versus artificial hair dyes. Finally, it outlines the typical ingredients in a hair dye formulation including dye, modifiers, antioxid

1. NATURAL HAIR COLORANTS
VIKHYATI PATEL
15MCT111
SEMESTER II
ADVANCED HAIR AND ORAL CARE COSMETICS
SUBMITTED TO: PROF. NIYATI ACHARYA C.E. I SUBMISSION

2. CONTENTS
• INTRODUCTION
• DEFINITION
• HAIR COLOURING SYSTEMS
• INTRODUCTION TO NATURAL COLOURS
• ARTICIAL COLOURS V/S NATURAL COLOURS
•NATURAL COLOURS
•HAIR DYE FORMULATION
•INGREDIENTS OF MARKETED HERBAL HAIR DYES
•REFERENCE
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3. INTRODUCTION
LAYERS OF HAIR
• the greater part of hair is made up of insoluble protein material called keratin. Small quantities of water
soluble substances are also present such as pentoses, phenols, uric acid, glycogen, glutamic acid, valine
and leucine.
• Natural hair colour is the result of two types of melanin pigments, eumelanin which is responsible for the
brown and black colours of hair and pheomelanin which creates the orange or blonde hues.
DEFINITION
• Hair dye is usually a substance of synthetic or natural origin, which is use to colour the hair as per the desired
shade. The chemistry of hair dyeing depends mainly on the size of the colouring molecule, the swelling of the
hair at the time of application, and the basicity of the dye resources.
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4. HAIR COLOURING SYSTEMS
1. Temporary colouring: Colours which can be removed at first shampooing and are made up of high molecular
weight and are deposited on the cuticle and do not penetrate the cortex.
2. Semi-permanent colouring: Colours which can resist several shampooing. They are of low molecular weight
and have affinity for keratin and so they can penetrate the cortex; but their fastness is less than the permanent
dyes.
3. Permanent colouring: These colours are resistant to shampooing and other external factors such as friction,
brushing, light etc.
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5. INTRODUCTION TO HERBAL COLOURS
• Natural colours are generally obtained from plants and animals.
• So, they are generally less harmful than the synthetic dyes.
• Chemically, they are carotenoids, flavonoids, glycosides or steroids.
• As they are plant derivatives, the uniformity of the colour obtained will be varying according to
the cultivation or geographical origin.
• The yield obtained is also less and so the they are less preferred over synthetic dyes.
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6. ARTIFICIAL COLOURS V/S NATURAL COLOURS
ARTIFICIAL COLOURS NATURAL COLOURS
• Obtained by chemical reactions • Obtained from nature
• Relatively stable • May be less stable than synthetic
ones
• Less costly to use • May be more costly to use
• Health concerns • No health concerns
• Processed by various reactions • Processed by physical means
• Consumer acceptability is
questionable
• Consumer acceptability is good
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7. NATURAL COLOURS
 HIBISCUS (Rosa sinensis)
• Family: Malvaceae
• Botanical source: flower of the plant
• Description: it is ornamental, large, dark-red coloured flowers.
• Chemical constituents: the important chemical constituents are Taraxeryl acetate, β-
sitosterol,campesterol,stigmasterol,cholesterol,ergosterol,lipids. Flowers contain cyaniding diglucoside,
flavonoids, vitamins, thiamine, riboflavin,niacin and ascorbic acid.
Traditional use of the flowers and leaves in india include burning them in ghee to produce a black dye
used to blacken the eyebrows. It is one of the main ingredients added to many hair care formulations along
with brahmi, bhringraj, amla and henna.
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8.  TURMERIC (Curcuma longa)
• Family: Zingiberaceae
• Botanical source: it is derived from the dried rhizomes of Curcuma longa
• Description: Highly branched, yellow to orange, cylindrical, aromatic rhizomes are found.
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9. • Chemical constituents: Turmeric contains up to 5% essential oils and up to 3% curcumin, a
polyphenol. It is active substance of turmeric.
Curcumin
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10.  ANNATTO SEEDS (Bixa orella)
• Family: Bixaceae
• Botanical source: seed of the plant
• Description: the seeds are small, triangular shaped, velvet red with soft texture.
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11. • Chemical constituents: the red colour is due to several apocarotenoids located in the seed epidermis, of
which bixin (9’Z-6,6-diapocarotene-6,6-dioate) is the most important.
Several more carotenoids and apocarotenoids are present such as norbixin. Their total amount varies.
Bixin
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12.  BEET ROOT (Beta vulgaris)
• Family: Chenopodiaceae
• Botanical source: It is the root of the plant
• Description: The beet root is the taproot portion of the beet plant.
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13. • Chemical constituents: the red/ purple colour of beet root is due to a variety of Betalain pigments. The
composition of different Betalain can vary giving breeds of beet root which are yellow or other colour in
addition to red colour.
Some of the Betalain are betannin, isobetannin, probetannin, and neobetannin.
the red and purple ones are collectively known as betacyanin.
Betalain
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14.  COCHINEAL (Dactylopius coccus)
• Family: Dactylopiidae
• Botanical source: Cochineal is the scale insect in the suborder Sternorrhyncha, from which the crimson
coloured dye, carmine is derived.
• Description: Cochineal insects are soft-bodied, flat, oval-shaped scale insects. The females, wingless
and about 5 mm (0.20 in) long, cluster on cactus pads. They penetrate the cactus with their beak-like
mouthparts and feed on its juices, remaining immobile unless alarmed.
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15. • Chemical constituents: the colour comes from carminic acid. Cochineal extract’s natural carminic acid
content is usually 19-22%.
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16.  HENNA (Lawsonia enermis)
• Family: Lythraceae
• Botanical source: Henna is the flowering plant.
• Description: It is glabrous and multi-branched, with spine-tipped branchlets. The leaves grow opposite
each other on the stem.
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17. • Chemical constituents: Lawsone (2-hydroxy-1,4-napthoquinone), also known as hennotannic acid, is a
red-orange dye present in the leaves of the henna plant.
Lawsone can react via Michael addition with the protein keratin in skin and hair, resulting in strong
and permanent stain.
Lawsone absorbs UV light, and aqueous extract can be effective,Sunless tanning sunscreen.
Lawsone
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18.  INDIGO (Indigofera tinctoria)
• Family: Fabaceae
• Botanical source: it is obtained from the leaves of the plant.
• Description: Species of Indigofera are mostly shrubs, though some are small trees or annual or
perennial herbs.
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19. • Chemical constituent: Dye is obtained from the processing of the plants leaves. They are soaked in
water and fermented in order to convert the glycoside indican naturally present to the blue dye indigotin.
Indican
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20.  ROSE PETALS (Rosa centifolia)
• Family: Rosaceae
• Botanical source: it is obtained from the petals of the flower.
• Description: They form a group of plants that can be erect shrubs, climbing or trailing with stems that
are often armed with sharp prickles. Flowers vary in size and shape and are usually large and showy, in
colours ranging from white through yellows and reds.
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21. • Chemical constituent: Carotenoids produce the yellow colors, anthocyanins the reds, and a mixture of
the two the modern oranges.
Α-carotene Β-carotene
Lycopene
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22.  MARIGOLD (Calendulla officinalis)
• Family: Asteraceae
• Botanical source: the flower is obtained from the plant.
• Description: it is a short-lived aromatic herbaceous perennial, with sparsely branched or erect stems.
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23. • Chemical constituents: different types of carotenoids:neoxanthin, (9´Z)-neoxanthin, violaxanthin,
luteoxanthin, auroxanthin, (9´Z)-violaxanthin, flavoxanthin, mutatoxanthin, (9´Z)-antheraxanthin,
lutein, (9/9´Z)-lutein, (13/13´Z)-lutein, α-carotene, β-carotene
Neoxanthin
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24.  POMEGRANATE (Punica granatum)
• Family: Lythraceae
• Botanical source: Fruit of the plant
• Description: the pomegranate has multiple spiny branches, and is extremely long-lived
• Natural dye: Yellow dye stuff after process due to cyanin contents.
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25.  CHAMOMILE (Matricaria chamomilla)
• Family: Asteraceae
• Botanical source: Flower of the plant.
• Description: M. chamomilla has a branched, erect and smooth stem, which grows to a height of 15–60
cm (6-24inches). The long and narrow leaves are bipinnate or tripinnate.
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26. • Chemical constituent: the active ingredients in the flowers is 1,3,4- trihydroxyflavone, known as
apigenin.
Apigenin
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27.  MADDER (Rubia cordifolia )
• Family: Rubiaceae
• Botanical source: root of the plant.
• Description: It climbs with tiny hooks at the leaves and stems. The flowers are small, with five pale
yellow petals, and appear from June to August, followed by small red to black berries.
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28. • Chemical constituents: the roots contain the acid. By drying, fermenting or on treatment with acids,
this changed to sugar, alizarin and purpurin. Alizarin is the chemical name of the pigment of the
anthraquinine group. Red, pink or orange dyestuff for hair colouring.
Alizarin
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29.  MYROBALAN (Terminalia chebula)
• Family: Combretaceae
• Botanical source: fruits of the plant
• Description: It is a medium to large deciduous tree growing to 30 m tall.
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30. • Chemical constituents: for greenish yellow dye stuff and also acts as natural mordant in hair colouring.
A number of glycosides have been isolated from haritaki, including the triterpenes arjunglucoside I,
arjungenin, and the chebulosides I and II. Other constituents include a coumarin conjugated with gallic
acids called chebulin, as well as other phenolic compounds including ellagic acid, 2,4-chebulyl-β-D-
glucopyranose, chebulinic acid, gallic acid, ethyl gallate, and tannic acid. Chebulic acid is a phenolic acid
compound isolated from the ripe fruits. T. chebula also contains terflavin B, a type of tannin, while
chebulinic acid is found in the fruits.
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31. HAIR DYE FORMULATION
 Generally, a hair dye include:
• Dye
• Modifiers,
• Antioxidants,
• Alkalizers,
• Oxidants
• Reducing agents
• Vehicle
• Fragrance, And
• Verity Of Other Chemicals Which Gives Different Effect To The Hair Like Softening,
Smoothening, Texture, Miniaturization, Etc. Along With Imparting Colour To The Hair.
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32. • Dye: the herbal colour used
• Modifier: they are used to modify the shades and also stabilize the dye pigment. They do not produce
significant colour alone but can modify them when used as primary intermediaries and oxidants. Modifiers bring
out colours which are complement to dye pigment, like green or purple.
• Antioxidants: Antioxidants are also added to hair dye to protect it from oxidizing with air. Most common
antioxidant used in hair colorant is Vitamin E (α-Tocopherol),Beta Carotene, Vitamin C, Vitamin A,
Phytochemicals ,Plant extracts (green tea, grape seed extract, lemongrass, oolong, kiwi), Selenium ,Trace
minerals .
• Alkalizers: For pH modification, alkalizers are added, because dye work best in high alkali composition.
• Oxidants: There are basically two types of oxidants used: hydrogen peroxide, when the vehicle is water, and
sodium persulfate, when it is a powder.
• Reducing agents: Reducing agents are added to oxidative dye formulations to retard the reaction between bases
and reaction modifiers and to prevent the initiation of the reaction in the packaging tube during the storage time.
• Developer: It initiates the colour forming process and creates a longer lasting colour.
• Other ingredients: Along with these, many other ingredients may be incorporated with it, like shampoos,
fragrance, chemicals that make the formula creamy, foamy, thick, or contribute to over all action of formula.
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33. INGREDIENTS OF MARKETED HERBAL HAIR DYES
1. Godrej Nupur Coconut Henna Creame Hair Colour
2. Tints of Nature
3. Herbatint
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34.  Godrej Nupur Coconut Henna Creame Hair Colour
INGREDIENTS ROLE
Aqua Solvent
Coconut oil emollient and solvent
Petrolatum Emollient
Ethanolamine Emulsifiers
Xanthum gum Thickener
Henna leaf powder Colorant
Sodium sulphate pH adjuster
p-phenelyenediamine Modifier
Resorcinol Modifier
Ascorbic acid Antioxidants
Sodium sulphite Reducing agent,
preservative
Alkyltrimethylammonium
bromide
Antistatic agent, conditioner
INGREDIENTS ROLE
Dimethicone Anti foaming agent,
conditioner
p-aminophenol and m-
aminophenol
Colour modifier
Phenyl methyl pyrazolone Modifier
2,4-disaminophenoxy
ethanol HCl
Modifier
N-N-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-
phenylenediamine sulphate
Imparts colour
Methyl paraben and propyl
paraben
Preservative
CI 19140 Yellow 5 and yellow 5 lake
CI 61570 Green 5

35. • Developer
INGREDIENTS ROLE
Aqua Solvent
Hydrogen peroxide Oxidizer
Cetyl alcohol Emollient, emulsifier
Glyceryl stearate Emulsifiers
PEG-100 stearate Emulsifier
Perfume Fragrance
Tetrasodiumpyrophosphate pH adjuster
EDTA Chelating agent
Disodium salt Viscosity modifier
Orthophosphoric acid pH adjuster
SLS Surfactant
Sodium stannate Stabilizer
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36.  Tints of Nature
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37.  Tints of Nature
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38.  Herbatint
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39.  Herbatint
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40. REFERENCE
• http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/search/node/
• www.herbalremedies.com
• Simone Aparecida da França, Michelli Ferrera Dario *, Victoria Brigatto Esteves, André Rolim Baby
and Maria Valéria Robles Velasco ,Review on Types of Hair Dye and Their Mechanisms of action,
Cosmetics 2015, 2, 110-126
• J.B.Wilkinson and R.J.Moore, Harry's Cosmeticology, Chemical Publishing Newyork Seventh edition
• http://www.annmariegianni.com/7-ways-to-color-your-hair-naturally
• http://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/ProductsIngredients/Products/ucm143075.htm
• Wenninger, J.A.; Canterbery, R.C.; Mcewen, G.N.J. International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and
Handbook, 8th ed.; Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association: Washington, DC, USA, 2000.
• G. E. Trease and W. C. Evans; Pharmacognosy Cassell and Collier Macmillan Publishers Ltd., Eleventh
edition
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