The document details the physiology and chemistry of skin, hair, scalp, lips, and nails, along with the formulation and standardization of various herbal cosmetics including creams, lotions, face powders, and hair tonics. It explores the anatomy and functions of the skin and hair, the composition and growth of nails, and the characteristics and preparation methods for cosmetics. Additionally, it discusses the benefits and disadvantages of beauty treatment products such as bleaches and dentifrices.

1. HERBAL COSMETICS
By- Durgashree M D
1st year, M.Pharm
Dept of Pharmacognosy
KLE College of Pharmacy, Bengaluru.
1

2. CONTENT
• Physiology and Chemistry of Skin and Pigmentation, Hair,
scalp, lips, and nails.
• Cleansing Creams
• Lotions.
• Face powder
• Facepacks
• Lipsticks
• Bath products
• Soaps
• Baby products
• Preparation and Standardization of – Tonic, Bleaches,
Dentifrices, Mouthwashes, and Toothpaste.
• Cosmetics for Nails 2

3. PHYSIOLOGY AND CHEMISTRY OF SKIN
AND PIGMENTATION
• Skin- The body's outer covering, which protects against heat and light, injury, and
infection.
• Cosmetics is applied to the skin are to-
 Provide decoration
 Supplement the natural function of the skin.
3

4. FUNCTIONS OF SKIN
4

5. SKIN ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY
5

6. • Skin has several
layers
1. Epidermis
2. Dermis
3. Hypodermis
6

7. 7

8. 8

9. Sebaceous Gland: small oil-producing gland present in
the skin of mammals
• Sebaceous glands are usually attached to hair follicles
and release a fatty substance, sebum, into the follicular
duct and hence to the surface of the skin.
• There are more sebaceous glands in the proximity of hair
• It is found all over the body except the palms of the hand
and soles of the feet.
• It is more in the face and head, and few in the forelimbs.
9

10. Sweat Gland: a small gland that secretes sweat, situated in the dermis of
the skin.
• Such glands are found over most of the body and have a simple coiled
tubular structure.
• It is of two types
• Eccrine gland- Most of the body
• Apocrine gland- under arms
10

11. PIGMENTATION OF SKIN
11

12. PIGMENTATION OF SKIN
• Color of skin varies with people (in diff
geographical distributions of Earth)
• It also varies with age.
• Skin pigments- Melanin, Melanoid,
Carotene, Oxy-haemoglobin, and
Deoxyhaemoglobin.
12

13. PIGMENTATION OF SKIN
Factors influencing the color of skin.
Thickness
Water content of Horny layer
Blood Flow
Amount of Oxygen in Blood, etc.
13

14. PHYSIOLOGY OF HAIR
• Hair is a derivative of the epidermis and
consists of two distinct parts: the follicle
and the hair shaft.
• The follicle is the essential unit for the
generation of hair.
• The hair shaft consists of a cortex and
cuticle cells, and a medulla for some
types of hairs.
14

15. 15

16. PHYSIOLOGY OF HAIR
• Hair consists of a central medulla surrounded by the cortex.
• Central Medulla – Soft Keratin
• Cortex – Hard Keratin
• Outer surface of hair consists of thin overlapping flat scales – interlock to
form cuticle.
16

17. PHYSIOLOGY OF HAIR
• Hair- A modified epithelial structure formed as a
result of Keratinization of germinative cells.
• Hair follicle is formed due to downward growth
from the epidermis to dermis tissue.
• During the development of the follicle some of the
cells which form the external root sheath grow
into the dermis forming sebaceous glands.
17

18. 18

19. PHYSIOLOGY OF HAIR
• Ducts of these sebaceous glands open into follicles.
• Hair follicles, usually are in a slant position and sebaceous glands are on
the obtuse angle of the follicle.
• A small bundle of muscle fibers, known as arrector pili extends from the
connective tissue sheath of the hair follicle on the obtuse side.
19

20. PHYSIOLOGY OF HAIR
• All hair follicles undergo cyclic activity.
 Active phase - Anagen
 Resting phase – Telogen
• Anagen – Hair is produced.
• Telogen - Fully formed hair remains
anchored in the follicles.
• Between Anagen and Telogen, a relatively
short transition phase called Catagen.
20

21. PHYSIOLOGY OF HAIR
• In which newly formed club hair moves towards the skin surface.
• The follicle become active again at the end of telogen.
• This is why old club hair shed and new hair grow.
• Sometimes, hair loss become more then growth or no hair will grow.
• This results in hair loss problems.
21

22. PHYSIOLOGY OF HAIR
Factors are:
- reduced hair follicle functions due to male hormones.
-Reduction is metabolic functions of hair follicles and hair bulbs.
- reduction in scalp physiological function.
- local impairment of circulation due to tension in the scalp.
22

23. PHYSIOLOGY OF HAIR
• Brown or black color of hair is due to a pigment –
Melanin.
• More Melanin – darker colored hair.
• Melanin is formed in Epithelial cells of the matrix.
• Human hair color is mainly because of two kinds of
pigment:
* Eumelanin – brown or black.
* Phaeomelanin – yellow or reddish.
23

24. PHYSIOLOGY AND CHEMISTRY OF
SCALP
24

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28. 28

29. 29
[6]

30. HAIR CHEMISTRY
• Hair fibers are composed of approximately 85% of the complex protein
keratin.
• Some 7% of associated H2O.
• Other – Lipide 3%
• Principle Ingredients – pigment (Melanin) 2%
• Trace the number of many metals such as Al, Cr, Ca, Cu, Fe, Mn, Mg,
and Zn in a high concentration of 22mg per 100g of hair.
• Phosphorous compounds are also abundant (80mg / 100g) mainly in
cortex cells. 30

31. HAIR CHEMISTRY
• Most important is Keratin- formed biochemical from the condensation of
some 18 types of amino acids.
• Such as – Alanine, Arginine, Glutamic acid, Glycine, Phenyalenin, serine,
valine.
• Eumelanin from thyrosin by oxidants with help of enzyme tyrosinase and
phaeomelanin from tyrosin in presence of o-amino phenol derived from
tryptophan1.
31

32. 32

33. PHYSIOLOGY
AND
CHEMISTRY
OF LIPS
33
Skin of the lips is characterized by an
exceptionally thin corneal layer.
The stratum germinativum is highly
developed.
Cornium pushes papillae with high blood
content just below the surface.
Lips do not content sweat gland and
sebaceous gland, so it are free from fat.

34. PHYSIOLOGY
AND
CHEMISTRY
OF LIPS
34
Salivary glands are present in the inner
portion of lips.
This saliva maintains the moisture of
lips.
In extreme conditions the corneal layer
becomes dry and produces cracked lips.
Substances applied to lips will easily
penetrate into stratum germinativum.
Lip contains protective pigment melanin
in less quantity.

35. 35

36. PHYSIOLOGY AND CHEMISTRY OF NAILS
• It is the hard covering at the end of a
finger.
• Nails protect the sensitive tips of
fingers and toes.
36

37. • The nail structure is divided into six parts:
 Root,
 Nail bed,
 nail plate,
 eponychium,
 parionychium, and
 hyponychium.
37

38. Functions of Fingernails
• They help humans function (dig, climb, scratch, grab, etc.)
• They guard against injuries: (from getting cut or scraped during daily
activities).
• They enhance the sensation (contain nerve endings that allow the body
to feel sensory input after a person touches something).
38

39. Growth of Nails
• Nails are made from a protein called
keratin. This is the same protein that
makes up skin and hair.
• Nails grow from cells that multiply within
the base of the nail, then layer on top of
each other and harden. This is called
keratinization.
39

40. 40

41. CLEANSING CREAM AND LOTIONS
• Cleansing cream/ Lotions used for removal of facial
makeup, surface grime, and oil from the face and neck.
• Leaving an emollient residual film on the skin to keep it
smooth and soft.
41

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44. 44

45. 45

46. 46
[4]

47. 47

48. 48

49. 49
[3]

50. 50
Cleansing Cream

51. 51
Lotions

52. FACE POWDER
• Face powder is a cosmetic product applied to the face to serve
different functions, typically to beautify the face.
• Originating from ancient Egypt, face powder has had different social uses
across cultures, and in modern times, it is typically used to set makeup,
brighten the skin and contour the face.
52

53. Functions of Face
Powder:
• Smooth finish to the
skin
• Masking minor
imperfections
• Masking shine due
to moisture or
grease
53

54. Desired Qualities:
• It should look natural
• It should have lasting properties
• It should be reasonable
resistance to skin secretions
• It should serve as a vehicle for
perfume
54

55. 55
Characteristics of Good Face Powder

56. 56

57. Raw Materials of Face powder:
1. Covering Powder- Titanium dioxide, Zinc oxide,
etc.
2. Absorbency- Kaolin, Rice starch, CaCo3, MgCo3,
etc.
3. Slip- Zinc stearate, Talc, etc.
4. Adhesion- Talc, Zinc stearate, Magnesium
stearate, etc.
5. Bloom- Rice Starch, Chalk, etc.
6. Coloring- Inorganic and Organic Pigment, etc.
57

58. 58
Ingredient Quantity
Talc 75%
Kaolin 5%
Chalk 5%
Zinc stearate 5%
Zinc oxide 10%
Perfume & color q.s
Ingredient Quantity
Talc 75%
Zinc oxide 10%
Rice starch 10%
Zinc stearate 5%
Perfume & color q.s
Formula I
Formula II

59. 59
[2]
Method of Preparation
Mix perfume and color + Part of chalk
Pass through sieve (for uniform distribution)
Mix other weighed ingredient into a mixer
Mix until the uniform
Sieve through 160 numbered sieve
Fill to proper container and Store

60. 60

61. FACE PACKS
• A face pack is a thick substance that you spread on your face,
allow to dry for a short time, and then remove, in order to clean
your skin thoroughly.
• Face pack is the smooth powder that is used for facial
application.
• These preparations are applied on the face in the form of liquid or
pastes and allowed to dry and set to form film giving a tightening,
strengthening, and cleansing effect to the skin.
61

62. FACE PACKS
• The warmth and tightening effect produced by the application of the face
pack produces the stimulating sensation of a rejuvenated face.
• Colloidal and adsorption clays used in these preparations remove the dirt
and grease from the skin of the face.
• When the applied face pack is eventually removed skin debris and
deposited dirt gets removed with it.
62

63. Types of Face Packs:
1. Plastic mask: Wax-
based, latex-based,
or vinyl-based
2. Hydrocolloid masks:
Gel masks (ready to
use)
3. Argillaceous masks:
Clay-based or
earth-based (ready
to use or dry
powder)
63

64. 64

65. Method of Preparation:
• The accurate quantity of ingredients was
weighed and ground into fine powder by using
sieve #120.
• Then all ingredients were mixed geometrically
by serial dilution method for uniform mixing.
• Then the prepared face pack was packed into a
self-sealable polyethylene bag, labeled, and
used for further studies5.
65

66. 66

67. LIPSTICKS
• It is a colored cosmetic applied to the lips form a small solid stick.
67

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76. 76

77. BATH PRODUCTS
77

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80. 80

81. SOAPS
• A substance used with water for washing and cleaning, made of a
compound of natural oils or fats with sodium hydroxide or another strong
alkali, and typically having perfume and coloring added.
81

82. SAPONIFICATION
82

83. PREPARATION OF SOAP
1. Cold Process
2. Hot Process
• Saponification Reaction
• Graining out and Washing
• Finishing/ Fitting Operation.
83

84. SOAP BASE TO TOILET SOAP
84

85. FORMULATION OF SOAP
85

86. 86

87. 87

88. BABY PRODUCT
• Baby products are specially formulated to be mild and non-irritating and
use ingredients that are selected for these properties. Baby products
include baby shampoos, baby Wash and baby lotions, baby oils, baby
powders and baby creams.
88

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100. 100
[1&7]

101. 101

102. PREPARATION AND STANDARDIZATION OF
COSMETICS
102

103. 1. TONIC
• Skin Tonic: Refers to a lotion, tonic or wash designed to
cleanse the skin and shrink the appearance of pores,
usually used on the face. It also moisturizes, protects and
refreshes the skin.
• Hair Tonic: A liquid or gelatinous substance applied to the
hair on one's head to improve its appearance in various
ways.
103

104. FORMULATION AND PHYSICAL CHARACTERIZATION OF
HERBAL FACE GEL TONER
Ingredients Amount
Aloevera 1ml
Herbal extract 2.5ml
Honey 1ml
Tween 1ml
Methanol 5ml
Distilled Water 25ml
104
Preparation of toner gel
• Required quantity of gelling agent was weighed
and dispersed in a small quantity of aloe vera
juice to form a homogenous dispersion.
• Required amount of honey and tween 80
weighed and dispersed in above solution.
• Required amount of methanol was then added
to the above solution.
• Methyl paraben and propyl paraben were small
quantity of water and added to above mixture
with continuous stirring.
• The final weight of gel was adjusted with aloe
vera gel.[10]

105. 105

106. FORMULATION OF HERBAL HAIR TONIC
Ingredient F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6
Tulsi oil %v/v 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6
Jajoba oil %v/v 0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7 0.8 0.9
Coconut oil q.s (ml) 10 10 10 10 10 10
Coloring agent q.s q.s q.s q.s q.s q.s
Perfume q.s q.s q.s q.s q.s q.s
106

107. PREPARATION HERBAL HAIR TONIC
• Jojoba oil and Tulsi oil used as active constituents.
• Coconut oil is used as base of formulation.
• Jojoba oil + Tulsi oil – 1st beaker, in another beaker ; coconut oil- 2nd Beaker.
• Beaker added to 2nd Beaker.
• Coloring and perfume is added for increasing attractiveness of formulation.
• Finally it is stirred on mechanical shaker for proper mixing and consistency of
formulation.[11]
107

108. 108

109. 2. BLEACHES
• Skin lightening, or skin bleaching, is a cosmetic
procedure that aims to lighten dark areas of skin
or achieve a generally paler skin tone.
• Hair bleaching, is the practice
of lightening the hair color mainly
for cosmetic purposes using bleaching agents.
109

110. Advantages of Bleaches
• Minimizes dark spots. Skin bleaching treatments can reduce dark spots on
the skin caused by sun damage, aging, and hormonal changes. ...
• Reduces the appearance of acne scars. Some skin bleaching treatments
may help fade acne scars. ...
• Evens out skin tone.
110

111. Disadvantages of Bleaches
• Bleaching thins the skin, causes bruises, stretch marks and other skin
problems.
• It exposes the skin to UV rays
• Mercury poisoning
• It causes cancer
• Risk of high blood sugar.
111

112. SKIN BLEACHING AGENTS
• Mercury compound- Mercuric chloride, red mercuric Oxide (Prohibited)
• Hydroquinone- Monobenzyl ether, Monomethyl ether, etc.
• Catechol and its derivative
• Ascorbic acid and its derivative
• Oxidizing agent- Zinc peroxide
• Kojic acid, etc.
112

113. HAIR BLEACHING AGENTS
• Vitamin C
• Lemon Juice
• Salt Solution
• Apple Cidar Vinegar
• Hydrogen Peroxide
• Honey Mask, etc.
113

114. FORMULATION OF SKIN BLEACHES
114

115. PREPARATION OF SKIN BLEACHES
115
[12]

116. 116

117. 3. DENTIFRICES
• A dentifrice is defined as a powder, paste or other material for cleansing the teeth.
• Examples: Tooth powder, Toothpaste, Mouthwash, etc.
117

118. Ideal properties
• Good abrasive effect
• Non irritant and non toxic
• Impart no stain in tooth
• Keep the mouth fresh and clean
• Prolonged effect
• Cheap and easily available
118

119. 119
Ingredient Quantity
Clove 15gm
Ginger 10gm
Asafoetida 5gm
Amla 15gm
Ajowan 15gm
Pepper 10gm
Neem bark 10gm
Acacia Bark 10gm
Alum 7gm [8]

120. METHOD OF PREPARATION
Herbal ingredients
Dried
Grounded using domestic mixer
Passed into sieve
Made into fine powder.
120

121. 121

122. 4. MOUTHWASHES
Types of Mouthwash:
1. Mouthwash containing Anti-bacterials
2. Mouthwash containing Fluoride
3. Mouthwash containing Minerals (Astringent)
122

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124. 124

125. 5. TOOTHPASTES
• A toothpaste or dentifrice is a substance used with a toothbrush for the purpose
of cleaning the accessible surfaces of the teeth.
• Ideal Properties
1. Good Abrasive effect
2. Non Irritant and nontoxic
3. Keep mouth Fresh and Clean
4. Prolong effect
5. Cheap and easily available.
125

126. FORMULATION OF TOOTHPASTE
• Calcium carbonate (adhesive agent) - 28 g
• sodium lauryl sulphate (surfactant) - 0.5 g
• Glycerin (humectants) - 11 g
• Gum tragacanth (binding agent) - 0.75 g
• Water (liquid phase) - 9.7 g
• Saccharin sodium (sweetening agent) - 0.05g
• Flavor (flavoring agent) - q. s
• Preservative (for storage) - q. s
126

127. 127

128. PREPARATION OF TOOTHPASTE
1. Dry Gum Method:
• In this method - abrasive agent, binding agent etc., except the surfactants are mixed
together in a dry mixer.
• The mixer may be an agitation mixer which consists of slow rotating blades.
• The liquid components such as the humectants and water are gradually added to the dry
mix.
• The mixing process is carried out till a smooth paste is formed.
• The remaining ingredients like the surfactants and the flavouring agents are added to
the homogenous paste under vacuum.
128

129. PREPARATION OF TOOTHPASTE
2. Wet Gum Method:
• In this method, all the liquid components are mixed together to form a liquid phase.
• The binding agent is then mixed with the liquid phase with uniform stirring in order form
mucilage.
• The solid ingredients excluding the surfactants are then gradually added to the mucilage
with uniform mixing in an agitation mixer, in order to form a homogenous paste.
• The remaining ingredients i.e., the surfactants, the flavoring agents, coloring agents are
added under vacuum t the homogenous paste.
129

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131. COSMETICS FOR NALIS
131

132. 132

133. NAIL LACQUER
133

134. 134

135. ENAMEL REMOVER
135

136. 136

137. NAIL CREAM
137
Emollient cream can be used.

138. NAIL BLEACH
138

139. CUTICLE SOFTENER AND REMOVER
139

140. 140

141. REFERENCES
1. Cosmetics- P.P. Sharma
2. Textbook of Cosmetics- Rajesh Kumar Nema
3. Formulation and Standardization of Herbal Lotion: A Review.
(https://www.ijnrd.org/papers/IJNRD2204069.pdf)
4. Formulation and evaluation of cleansing cream using walnut shell powder.
(https://zenodo.org/record/4655953/files/210204.pdf)
5. Formulation and Evaluation of cosmetic Herbal Face pack for Glowing skin.
(https://www.researchgate.net/publication/318872267_FORMULATION_AND_EVALUATIO
N_OF_COSMETIC_HERBAL_FACE_PACK_FOR_GLOWING_SKIN)
6. Scalp (https://www.slideshare.net/mgmcri1234/scalp-58366737)
7. Baby care Products. (https://www.slideshare.net/parasharparashar8021/baby-care-
products-108315331)
8. Preparation and Evaluation of Herbal
Toothpowder.(https://zenodo.org/record/2269849#.YtmlxXZBxPY) 141

142. REFERENCES
10. Formulation and physical characterization of herbal face gel
toner.(https://www.researchgate.net/publication/353584527_Formulation_and_physical_ch
aracterization_of_herbal_face_gel_toner)
11. Formulation and Evaluation of Herbal Hair Tonic.
(https://rjtcsonline.com/HTMLPaper.aspx?Journal=Research%20Journal%20of%20Topical
%20and%20Cosmetic%20Sciences;PID=2015-6-2-4)
12. Formulation and Evaluation of Herbal Skin Whitening Cream.
(https://ijcrt.org/papers/IJCRT2004041.pdf)
13. Nail Cosmetics- Yogitha T Rayate. (https://www.slideshare.net/yogitarayate/nail-
cosmetics)
142

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