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Characteristics of Ocean Water
• Oceanography covers physical properties
of the ocean:
–Dissolved materials: minerals and salts
(salinity) and gases
–Properties that change with depth: light,
temperature and pressure
–Motion: Waves, tides, currents
Waters Unique Properties…
-Found in 3 states of matter on our
planet
-High heat capacity: ability of water
to hold heat energy and regulate our
climate
-Universal solvent: can dissolve
more things than any other solvent
Unique Properties of water are due to
Hydrogen Bonding-
attraction between water molecules because
of the unequal charges of O & H
• Charges on O and H help it dissolve things
like salts
• Attraction between water molecules- a lot
of heat is needed to increase water temp
and when water cools it release a lot of heat
Water is recycled from the ocean to the land and returned
to the sea.
• The reservoirs of water include:
– Oceans - cover 60% of the northern hemisphere
and 80% of the southern hemisphere and
contains 97% of Earth’s water.
– Rivers, lakes and glaciers.
– Groundwater - contains a larger volume of water
than all of the water in lakes and rivers.
• The hydrologic cycle describes the exchange
of water between ocean, land and
atmosphere.
5-7The Ocean as a Physical System
5-7
The Hydrological cycle
Resource cycling
within the ocean
Salinity displays a latitudinal relationship
related to precipitation and evaporation.
• Highest ocean salinity is between 20-30o north and south
or the equator.
• Low salinity at the equator and poleward of 30o results
because evaporation decreases and precipitation
increases.
• In some places surface water and deep water are
separated by a halocline, a zone of rapid change in
salinity.
• Water stratification (layering) within the ocean is more
pronounced between 40oN and 40oS.
5-5 Chemical and Physical Structure of the
Oceans
Latitudinal variation in salinity
Salinity Profiles
Density of sea water is a function of
temperature, salinity and pressure.
• Density increases as
temperature decreases and
salinity increases as pressure
increases.
• Pressure increases regularly
with depth, but temperature and
salinity are more variable.
• Higher salinity water can rest
5-5
Chemical and Physical Structure of the
Oceans
Density Stratification
The water column in the ocean can be divided into
the surface layer, pycnocline and deep layer.
• The surface layer is about 100m thick,
comprises about 2% of the ocean volume
and is the most variable part of the ocean
because it is in contact with the atmosphere.
• The surface layer is less dense because of lower
salinity or higher temperature.
• The pycnocline is transitional between the
surface and deep layers and comprises 18%
5-5
Chemical and Physical Structure of the
Oceans
Factors leading to a pycnocline
Density Structure of the Ocean
Salinity
• Result of weathering of rocks on
land carried by rivers to the
ocean
• Materials from the earth’s
interior
– Hydrothermal vents
– Volcanic eruptions
Materials in Seawater
–Oceans have an average salinity
of 3.5% or 35 ppt (35 ‰)
– ppt= parts per thousand
–More than 70 elements in
seawater but the main ones are..
Chloride
Sodium
Sulphate
Magnesium
Calcium
Potassium
An overview of Ocean Stratification
• Tropical and subtropical oceans are permanently
layered with warm, less dense surface water
separated from the cold, dense deep water by
a thermocline, a layer in which water
temperature and density change rapidly.
• Temperate regions have a seasonal thermocline and
polar regions have none.
5-5Chemical and Physical Structure of the
Oceans
Dissolved Gases
• Oxygen, carbon dioxide and nitrogen
• Dissolve into the ocean from the
atmosphere through wave action
• Dissolve better in cold water
• Animal life can change the chemistry
of ocean gases
• Around 500 m water runs out of
oxygen
–Bacteria and other animals are
using it during decomposition and
respiration
• Animals in this region and lower have
large gills, modified hemoglobin
or are inactive
Pressure
• We are under 1
atmosphere (atm) of
pressure on land
• Water is heavier than
air so every 10 m deep
= 1 more atm of
pressure
Animal Adaptations and Pressure
• Ocean life has adapted to deep ocean
and 1000x our pressure with
lightweight skeletons, little
musculature, and reduced metabolic,
growth and reproductive rates.
• Diving mammals have rib cages that
collapse and expand in result to
changing pressure
Water Depth vs Light
• Photosynthetic organisms use light to
make sugars.
• Sunlit area (top 100 meters) contains 90%
of marine life
• Colors of penetrate thru water differently
–Red light filters out first and blue light
goes the furthest
–Red animals are essentially invisible in
deep waters
• 65% of light entering the ocean is
absorbed within the first meter and
converted into heat. Only 1% of light
entering the ocean reaches 100m.
• Water displays the selective absorption of
light with long wavelengths absorbed first
and short wavelengths absorbed last.
• In the open ocean, blue light penetrates
the deepest.
The Ocean Sciences: Other Physical
Properties of Water
Light Absorption, open
ocean
• In turbid coastal waters light rarely
penetrates deeper than 20m. and the water
appears yellow to green because particles
reflect these wavelengths.
• The photic zone is the part of the water
column penetrated by sunlight.
• The aphotic zone is the part of the water
column below light penetration and
The Ocean Sciences: Other Physical
Properties of Water
Light absorption in nearshore, productive water
The speed of sound in water increases as salinity, temperature and pressure
increase, but in the ocean, the speed of sound is mainly a function of temperature
and pressure.
• Above the pycnocline increasing pressure
with depth increases the speed of sound
despite the gradual decrease in temperature.
• Within the pycnocline, the speed of sound
decreases rapidly because of the rapid
decrease in temperature and only slight
increase in pressure.
The Ocean Sciences: Other Physical
Properties of Water
Behavior of sound in water
• SOFAR Channel is located where
sound speed is at a minimum.
Refraction of sound waves within the
channel prevents dispersion of the
sound energy and sound waves travel
for 1000s of kilometers within the
channel.
The Ocean Sciences: Other Physical
Properties of Water
The sea surface microlayer is the water surface to a depth of a few hundred
micrometers. It is critical for the exchange between the atmosphere and the ocean.
• Neuston layer is the habitat of the sea surface microlayer and is inhabited by the
neuston, all organisms of the microlayer.
• Processes that transport matter to the surface layer from below are:
– Diffusion - random movement of molecules.
– Convection - vertical circulation resulting in the transfer of heat and matter.
– Bubbles - the most important process because bubbles absorb material and inject it into the air
as they bursts.
• Processes within the microlayer can be divided into the:
– Biological - bacteria and plankton are much more abundant in the layer than below.
– Photochemical effect - the interaction of ultraviolet light and organic compounds.
The Ocean Sciences: Sea Surface
Microlayer
The sea-surface microlayer
Summary of
resource cycling
Energy in the Ocean
• Ocean takes
longer to heat
and cool than
land due to its
specific heat
• Water temp
decreases with
depth
Animal Adaptations and Temperature
• Colder temps reduce the metabolic rate
• In very cold waters fish have a special
protein like antifreeze to keep tissues
from freezing
• Lighter colored animals stay cooler than
darker colored animals and are found in
warmer waters
• Some marine life have thick layers of fat
to insulate their bodies
Motion in the Ocean…Tides
• Daily rise and fall of the ocean (high
and low tide)
• Range as small as 1 m & as high as
20m
• Some areas have 1 or 2 high & low
tides
• Caused by gravitational pull of moon
on our ocean basin
TIDES
•Tides rise (FLOOD) to produce a
HIGH TIDE
• And fall (EBB) (LOW TIDE)
Moon/
Sun
This side is pulled towards the
Sun and/or Moon by
gravitational attraction
This side bulges out because
of inertia
Therefore, there are two high tides on Earth at
any one time
Marine Life and Tides
• Some marine life time their
reproduction to the high or low tide
cycle
• Horseshoe crabs come ashore to
mate on the night of a high tide in
May
• Eggs hatch 2 wks later on a high tide
and are washed into the ocean
Motion in the Ocean…Waves
• Winds produce waves as it blows
across the ocean’s surface
• When waves enter shallow water they
drag along the ocean floor
• The wave top is moving faster than
the wave bottom so it topples forward
• Specialty waves: rogue waves, tidal
waves and tsunamis
At the shoreline
• Surf -
sequence of
breaking waves
• Swash - water
sliding up
beach
• Backwash -
water flowing
back down
beach to sea
Longshore drift
• Waves arrive at a
coast at an angle
(swash)
• Backwash returns
at 90 degrees
Sand is moved along the beach = longshore
drift or longshore current
Coastal
deposition
• Result of
longshore drift
and a lot of
sediment
• produces
extensions of
deposit from
the shoreline
• May grow
across a bay
(baymouth
bar)
• May link an
island to the
main land
(tombolo)
spit = curved extension
Motion in the Ocean-Currents
• Rivers of water moving through
the ocean
• Surface currents caused by major
wind belts
• Deflected by the Coriolis Effect
• Important in moving marine life
and nutrients around the oceans
Vertical Ocean Currents
• Differences in temperature and salinity
change the density of water.
• This causes sinking and rising of water in
the ocean
• Ocean conveyor belt- convection current
of water moving between the equator and
poles in the oceans
• Takes 1600 years to cycle
002 characteristics of ocean water

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002 characteristics of ocean water

  • 2. • Oceanography covers physical properties of the ocean: –Dissolved materials: minerals and salts (salinity) and gases –Properties that change with depth: light, temperature and pressure –Motion: Waves, tides, currents
  • 3. Waters Unique Properties… -Found in 3 states of matter on our planet -High heat capacity: ability of water to hold heat energy and regulate our climate -Universal solvent: can dissolve more things than any other solvent
  • 4. Unique Properties of water are due to Hydrogen Bonding- attraction between water molecules because of the unequal charges of O & H • Charges on O and H help it dissolve things like salts • Attraction between water molecules- a lot of heat is needed to increase water temp and when water cools it release a lot of heat
  • 5. Water is recycled from the ocean to the land and returned to the sea. • The reservoirs of water include: – Oceans - cover 60% of the northern hemisphere and 80% of the southern hemisphere and contains 97% of Earth’s water. – Rivers, lakes and glaciers. – Groundwater - contains a larger volume of water than all of the water in lakes and rivers. • The hydrologic cycle describes the exchange of water between ocean, land and atmosphere. 5-7The Ocean as a Physical System
  • 8. Salinity displays a latitudinal relationship related to precipitation and evaporation. • Highest ocean salinity is between 20-30o north and south or the equator. • Low salinity at the equator and poleward of 30o results because evaporation decreases and precipitation increases. • In some places surface water and deep water are separated by a halocline, a zone of rapid change in salinity. • Water stratification (layering) within the ocean is more pronounced between 40oN and 40oS. 5-5 Chemical and Physical Structure of the Oceans
  • 11. Density of sea water is a function of temperature, salinity and pressure. • Density increases as temperature decreases and salinity increases as pressure increases. • Pressure increases regularly with depth, but temperature and salinity are more variable. • Higher salinity water can rest 5-5 Chemical and Physical Structure of the Oceans
  • 13. The water column in the ocean can be divided into the surface layer, pycnocline and deep layer. • The surface layer is about 100m thick, comprises about 2% of the ocean volume and is the most variable part of the ocean because it is in contact with the atmosphere. • The surface layer is less dense because of lower salinity or higher temperature. • The pycnocline is transitional between the surface and deep layers and comprises 18% 5-5 Chemical and Physical Structure of the Oceans
  • 14. Factors leading to a pycnocline
  • 15. Density Structure of the Ocean
  • 16. Salinity • Result of weathering of rocks on land carried by rivers to the ocean • Materials from the earth’s interior – Hydrothermal vents – Volcanic eruptions
  • 17. Materials in Seawater –Oceans have an average salinity of 3.5% or 35 ppt (35 ‰) – ppt= parts per thousand –More than 70 elements in seawater but the main ones are..
  • 19.
  • 20. An overview of Ocean Stratification
  • 21. • Tropical and subtropical oceans are permanently layered with warm, less dense surface water separated from the cold, dense deep water by a thermocline, a layer in which water temperature and density change rapidly. • Temperate regions have a seasonal thermocline and polar regions have none. 5-5Chemical and Physical Structure of the Oceans
  • 22. Dissolved Gases • Oxygen, carbon dioxide and nitrogen • Dissolve into the ocean from the atmosphere through wave action • Dissolve better in cold water • Animal life can change the chemistry of ocean gases
  • 23. • Around 500 m water runs out of oxygen –Bacteria and other animals are using it during decomposition and respiration • Animals in this region and lower have large gills, modified hemoglobin or are inactive
  • 24.
  • 25. Pressure • We are under 1 atmosphere (atm) of pressure on land • Water is heavier than air so every 10 m deep = 1 more atm of pressure
  • 26. Animal Adaptations and Pressure • Ocean life has adapted to deep ocean and 1000x our pressure with lightweight skeletons, little musculature, and reduced metabolic, growth and reproductive rates. • Diving mammals have rib cages that collapse and expand in result to changing pressure
  • 27. Water Depth vs Light • Photosynthetic organisms use light to make sugars. • Sunlit area (top 100 meters) contains 90% of marine life • Colors of penetrate thru water differently –Red light filters out first and blue light goes the furthest –Red animals are essentially invisible in deep waters
  • 28. • 65% of light entering the ocean is absorbed within the first meter and converted into heat. Only 1% of light entering the ocean reaches 100m. • Water displays the selective absorption of light with long wavelengths absorbed first and short wavelengths absorbed last. • In the open ocean, blue light penetrates the deepest. The Ocean Sciences: Other Physical Properties of Water
  • 30. • In turbid coastal waters light rarely penetrates deeper than 20m. and the water appears yellow to green because particles reflect these wavelengths. • The photic zone is the part of the water column penetrated by sunlight. • The aphotic zone is the part of the water column below light penetration and The Ocean Sciences: Other Physical Properties of Water
  • 31. Light absorption in nearshore, productive water
  • 32.
  • 33. The speed of sound in water increases as salinity, temperature and pressure increase, but in the ocean, the speed of sound is mainly a function of temperature and pressure. • Above the pycnocline increasing pressure with depth increases the speed of sound despite the gradual decrease in temperature. • Within the pycnocline, the speed of sound decreases rapidly because of the rapid decrease in temperature and only slight increase in pressure. The Ocean Sciences: Other Physical Properties of Water
  • 34. Behavior of sound in water
  • 35. • SOFAR Channel is located where sound speed is at a minimum. Refraction of sound waves within the channel prevents dispersion of the sound energy and sound waves travel for 1000s of kilometers within the channel. The Ocean Sciences: Other Physical Properties of Water
  • 36. The sea surface microlayer is the water surface to a depth of a few hundred micrometers. It is critical for the exchange between the atmosphere and the ocean. • Neuston layer is the habitat of the sea surface microlayer and is inhabited by the neuston, all organisms of the microlayer. • Processes that transport matter to the surface layer from below are: – Diffusion - random movement of molecules. – Convection - vertical circulation resulting in the transfer of heat and matter. – Bubbles - the most important process because bubbles absorb material and inject it into the air as they bursts. • Processes within the microlayer can be divided into the: – Biological - bacteria and plankton are much more abundant in the layer than below. – Photochemical effect - the interaction of ultraviolet light and organic compounds. The Ocean Sciences: Sea Surface Microlayer
  • 39.
  • 40. Energy in the Ocean • Ocean takes longer to heat and cool than land due to its specific heat • Water temp decreases with depth
  • 41. Animal Adaptations and Temperature • Colder temps reduce the metabolic rate • In very cold waters fish have a special protein like antifreeze to keep tissues from freezing • Lighter colored animals stay cooler than darker colored animals and are found in warmer waters • Some marine life have thick layers of fat to insulate their bodies
  • 42. Motion in the Ocean…Tides • Daily rise and fall of the ocean (high and low tide) • Range as small as 1 m & as high as 20m • Some areas have 1 or 2 high & low tides • Caused by gravitational pull of moon on our ocean basin
  • 43. TIDES •Tides rise (FLOOD) to produce a HIGH TIDE • And fall (EBB) (LOW TIDE) Moon/ Sun
  • 44. This side is pulled towards the Sun and/or Moon by gravitational attraction This side bulges out because of inertia Therefore, there are two high tides on Earth at any one time
  • 45. Marine Life and Tides • Some marine life time their reproduction to the high or low tide cycle • Horseshoe crabs come ashore to mate on the night of a high tide in May • Eggs hatch 2 wks later on a high tide and are washed into the ocean
  • 46. Motion in the Ocean…Waves • Winds produce waves as it blows across the ocean’s surface • When waves enter shallow water they drag along the ocean floor • The wave top is moving faster than the wave bottom so it topples forward • Specialty waves: rogue waves, tidal waves and tsunamis
  • 48. • Surf - sequence of breaking waves • Swash - water sliding up beach • Backwash - water flowing back down beach to sea
  • 49. Longshore drift • Waves arrive at a coast at an angle (swash) • Backwash returns at 90 degrees Sand is moved along the beach = longshore drift or longshore current
  • 50. Coastal deposition • Result of longshore drift and a lot of sediment • produces extensions of deposit from the shoreline
  • 51. • May grow across a bay (baymouth bar) • May link an island to the main land (tombolo) spit = curved extension
  • 52. Motion in the Ocean-Currents • Rivers of water moving through the ocean • Surface currents caused by major wind belts • Deflected by the Coriolis Effect • Important in moving marine life and nutrients around the oceans
  • 53.
  • 54. Vertical Ocean Currents • Differences in temperature and salinity change the density of water. • This causes sinking and rising of water in the ocean • Ocean conveyor belt- convection current of water moving between the equator and poles in the oceans • Takes 1600 years to cycle