Emollient is one of the building block in cosmetics formulation.

1. EMOLLIENTS IN COSMETICS
Presented By - Payal Dnyaneshwar Borawake.
M. Pharm SEM-II
Guided By - Mrs. S.S. Mutha
( Asso. Prof. & HOD)
Department of Pharmaceutics.
PDEA’s S.G.R.S. College Of Pharmacy , Saswad.
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2. CONTENTS
o Introduction
o Definition
o Need of an Emollients
o Dry Skin
o Ideal Characteristics
o Mechanism Of Action
o Classification
o Best emmolient
o How often and how much to apply
o Possible side effects
o References
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3. INTRODUCTION
 The word emollient is derived from mollire which is a
Latin verb meaning “to soften.”
 The term refers to materials that are
able to soften the skin.
 Emollients are topical treatments.
 Emollients are sometimes known as
Moisturizers , Refatteners.
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4. DEFINITION
 CTFA dictionary defines emollients as, “cosmetic ingredients
which helps to maintain the smooth and pliable appearance of the
skin; emollients function by their ability to remain on the skin
surface or in stratum corneum to act as lubricant, to reduce
flaking, and to improve the appearance of the skin.”
 An emollient is a Humectant , a Lubricant and an Occluder.
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6. EXAMPLES OF EMOLLIENTS
 Shea butter
 Cocoa butter
 Mineral oil
 Lanolin
 Petrolatum
 Paraffin
 Beeswax
 Squalene
 Coconut, jojoba, sesame,
almond, and other plant oils
 Cetyl alcohol
 Olive oil (oleic acid)
 Triethylhexanoin
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Lanolin
Triethylhexanoin
Cetyl alcohol

7. NEED OF AN EMOLLIENTS
 Water constantly evaporates from the deeper layers of the skin
called as trans epidermal water loss (TEWL).
 TEWL is normally about 4–8 g/(m²⋅h).
 When skin exposed to low humidity condition or when there is
insufficient hydration from lower epidermal layers, there is
excessive loss of water from stratum corneum.
 So skin becomes dry and for prevention or relief from dryness,
emollients are needed.
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8. DRY SKIN
 Dry skin is common symptom of number of skin conditions:
- atopic dermatitis
- irritant contact dermatitis
- psoriasis
 Dryness aggravated by, frequent
washing, use of harsh detergents and exposure to low humidity.
 If not treated, condition occur such as atopic eczema.
 Dryness is measure of water content of skin.
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9. DRY SKIN (CONT..)
 Etiology of dryness is removal of skin surface lipids, the
horny layer lipids, and dissolution of hygroscopic water
soluble components in corneum.
 So, state of hydration depends on:
- Rate at which water reaches the horny layer.
- Rate at which water leaves the skin surface.
- Ability of S. Corneum to hold moisture.
 Hydration depends on “Natural Moisturizing Factor” (NMF).
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10. REQUIRED QUALITIES
 Easy to spread, pleasant feeling, non-oily or non-greasy.
 Appropriate rheological properties , Smooth texture.
 Provide effective hydration and prevent TEWL.
 Smoothens and softens the skin.
 Reduces dryness , improve dull appearance.
 Dermatological safe.
 No microbial contamination and growth.
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11. MECHANISM OF ACTION
 Emollients trap moisture in the skin
 Some emollient contain lipids,
like white soft paraffin,
that act as an occlusive.
 Some emollients also contain
ingredients like urea that
act as humectants (attract moisture).
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12. CLASSIFICATION / TYPES
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A] According to their Use :
 Soap substitutes
 Leave-on emollients
B] According to greasiness :
 Ointments
 Creams
 Lotions

13. CLASSIFICATION/TYPES
C] According to chemical structure :
 Hydrocarbon oils and waxes – mineral oil, Petrolatum, Paraffin
 Silicone oils – Dimethyl, Methyl phenyl polysiloxanes
 Triglyceride esters – Vegetable and animal fats and oils
 Acetoglyceride esters – Acetylated monoglycerides
 Ethoxylated glyceride – Ethoxylated glyceryl monostearate
 Alkyl esters – Methyl ester of F.A., Hexyl laurate, isohexyl palmitate
 Alkenyl esters – Oleyl myristate /Stearate/ oleate
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14. CLASSIFICATION (CONT…)
 Fatty acids – Stearic, oleic, lanolin, palmitic acids
 Fatty alcohols – Lauryl, isostearyl, isocetyl alcohols
 Fatty alcohol ethers – Ethoxylated lauryl alcohol, cholesterol
 Ether-esters – Fatty acid esters of ethoxylated fatty alcohols
 Lanolin and derivatives – Lanolin oil, wax, alcohols, FA, isopropyl
lanolate, acetate of lanolin alcohols, etc
 Polyols and polyether derivatives – Propylene glycol,
glcerol, PEG-200, hexylene glycol, polypropylene glycol 2000
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15. CLASSIFICATION (CONT…)
 Polyol esters – Ethylene glycol mono- and di - fatty acid esters,
polypropylene glycol 2000 mono oleate, mono Stearate
 Wax esters – Beeswax, spermaceti, myristyl myristate
 Beeswax derivatives – Polyoxyethylene sorbitol beeswax
 Vegetable waxes – Carnauba, candellia
 Phospholipids – Lecithin
 Sterols – Cholesterol, cholesterol FA esters
 Amides – FA amides, ethoxylated FA amides.
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16. SOAP SUBSTITUTES
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 Soap should avoided in people with dry
skin condition, soap substitute is used
for cleansing purpose.
 They not remove natural oil in skin.
 Most emollients (except white soft
paraffin alone) can be used as a soap
Substitute.
 Soap substitutes can either be applied
before bathing, showering or washing, or while in the
water.

17. LEAVE ON EMOLLIENT
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 These emollients directly applied onto the skin and left on to soak in.
 They are not washed off the skin.
 Quantity of emollient required will depend on –
- the size of the person,
- the extent and severity of the skin condition,
- whether the emollient is also being used as a soap substitute.
 As a general guide, if you needed to treat the whole body, the
recommended quantities used are
 600 g/week for an adult, and 250-500 g/week for a child.

18. OINTMENTS
 Greasy in nature
 Made of Soft paraffin/ liquid paraffin.
 Ideal for dry, thickened skin.
 Applied at night time.
 Do not contains preservative, So no skin reaction.
 A tablespoon of any ointment can be dissolved in some hot
water and added to the bath water. 18

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 A layer of petrolatum applied to normal skin can reduce the
TEWL by 50–75% for several hours.

20. CREAMS
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 Contains mixture of oil and water.
 Less greasy, easier to spread than ointments.
 Must be used frequently.
 Applied liberally to prevent drying of skin.
 Contains preservatives.
Example : AproDerm Emmolient Cream.
 White soft Paraffin 15%,
 Liquid Paraffin 6%.
 Other Ingredients: Ceteareth-20, Macrogol Cetostearyl Ether,
Cetostearyl Alcohol, Sodium Hydrogen Phosphate, Phosphoric
Acid / Sodium Hydroxide, Euxyl PE 9010, Purified Water.

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22. LOTIONS
 Contains less oil and more water.
 Less effective in moisturization.
 Useful for hairy areas like scalp.
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23. LIPOPHILIC EMOLLIENTS & OCCLUSIVES
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 Occlusive materials –Vegetable, mineral oil, natural /synthetic
waxes, FA esters, lanolin oil & its derivatives.
 Mineral, vegetable oil, waxes- Heavy, greasy feeling.
 FA esters – Light, pleasant feel.
- Chain length have impact on feel property.
- Efficacious skin refatteners.
 Fatty acid mono & di-glycerides-
-Prepared by trans esterification of triglyceride with glycerin.
-Monoglycerides of stearic, lauric acid part of skin lipids.
E.g. Glyceryl oleate.

24. HYDROPHILIC LIPIDS
 Preferred for foaming skin cleansing preparations.
 Ethoxylation & propoxylation- more compatible.
 More the lipids ethoxylated, more soluble they are and less impact
on foam.
But also, less persistence on skin, weaker refattener.
Examples:-
 Ethoxylated glycerides
 Low ethoxylated triglycerides
 Ethoxylated mono and di-glycerides
 Ethoxylated/ propoxylated fatty alcohols
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25. LANOLIN
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 Extracted from sheep wool grease.
 It is a complex mixture of esters of high mol. wt. lanolin alcohols
and of lanolin FA.
 Lanolin alcohols & oil- Super fatting agents in soaps.
 Ethoxylation of hydroxyl groups gives hydrophilic compounds-
useful emollient.
E.g. PEG 75 lanolin
 Alkoxylated lanolin derivatives – reaction with mixture of
propylene and ethylene oxides.

26. LECITHIN
 Natural mixture of polar & neutral lipids.
 Vegetable source is soyabean , maize.
 Animal source is egg yolk.
 Have emollient, refattening , moisturising properties.
 Bare lecithin –
 Secondary product of soya oil extraction, contains
60-70% polar lipids & remaining 25-30% soya oil.
 Raw lecithin further fractionated, purified & modified. 26

27. SILICONE DERIVATIVES
 Predominant silicones used are dimethicones.
 Length of dimethylsiloxane polymer chain dictates M.W. and
viscosity.
 Viscosity ranging from about 100 to several thousand
centistokes.
 High to medium mol. wt. are occlusive, skin protective.
 Low mol. wt. are dryer emollients.
 Non polar silicones require hot emulsification process.
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28. BEST EMOLLIENT
 There is no best emollient.
 The type to use depend on - Dryness of your skin, Area of
skin involve and Preference.
For example:
 If there is mild skin dryness and no flare-ups, a lotion or
cream may be best.
 If there is moderate-to-severe dryness, a thicker cream or an
ointment is usually best.
 Creams are usually less messy but need to be put on more
often than ointments.
 A lotion or spray is best for areas of hairy skin.
 For areas of weeping eczema, a cream or lotion is best as
ointments will tend to be very messy. 28

29. HOW OFTEN EMOLLIENT SHOULD APPLY
 Emollients applied whenever the skin feels dry and as per need.
This may be two to four times a day or more.
 Applied immediately after washing or bathing when skin has
been dry.
 Emollients can and should be applied at other times during the
day, i.e. in extreme weather to provide a barrier from the cold.
 We should continue to use emollients after skin condition has
cleared if the clinical condition justifies continued use.
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30. HOW MUCH TO APPLY
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 The quantity of leave-on emollient required will vary depend
on the
 size of the person,
 the severity of the skin condition, and
 whether the emollient is also being used as a soap substitute.
 As a general guide,
If needed to treat the whole body, the recommended quantities are:
- 600g per week for an adult,
- 250-500g per week for a child under 12.

31. HOW MUCH TO APPLY
Area of body Creams or ointments Lotions
Face 120 g 100 mL
Both hands 120 g 500 mL
Scalp 500 g 1000 mL
Both arms & legs 500-1000 g 1000 mL
Trunk 1000 g 1500 mL
Groins 120 g 500 mL
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32. PRECAUTIONS TO TAKE
 Paraffin-based emollients are flammable so care should taken
near any open flames or potential causes of ignition, such as
cigarettes.
 Ointments and creams used in the bath and shower can make
the surface slippery so extra care should be taken.
 If you find an emollient is making your skin sore and/or very
itchy, you may be allergic to one of the ingredients and you
should discuss this with your doctor or nurse.
 If you are having ultraviolet light treatment or radiotherapy,
ask for specific guidance on emollient use as instructions may
differ slightly.
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33. POSSIBLE SIDE EFFECTS
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 Irritant reactions: These include an overheating, 'burning'
sensation or stinging. It is usually caused by a reaction to a
certain ingredient contained in the cream or lotion. If the
stinging is painful and continues, try a different emollient.
 Folliculitis: Some emollients that work by sealing wounds or
cracks in the skin with a protective barrier (occlusive) can
occasionally cause hair follicles to become blocked and
inflamed (folliculitis) and cause boils (painful, red bumps on
the skin).
 Facial rashes: Some facial emollients can cause rashes on the
face and can aggravate acne (a skin condition that occurs on
the face and commonly affects people during their teenage
years).

34. REFERENCES
1. M.S.Balsam, E. Sagarin. Cosmetics-science and technology.
Krieger Publishing Company, Second edition, Volume 1, Pg.
no.- 27-78.
2. P.P.Sharma. Cosmetics-Formulation, manufacturing & quality
control, Vandana Publications Pvt. Ltd., 4th edition 2008, Pg.
No.- 105-110.
3. M. Paye, A.Barel, H.Maibach. Handbook of cosmetic science
and technology, Special Indian Edition, 1st edition 2008, Pg.
No.248-254.
4. https://www.healthline.com/health/emollient. 34

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