Building blocks for different product formulations of cosmetics/cosmeceuticals. Surfactants - Classification and application. Emollients, rheological additives: classification and application.

1. Presented By:
Ms. Prajakta Sawant
M.Pharm First Year (Roll No. 5)
(Dept. of Pharmaceutics)
Sub: COSMETICS & COSMECEUTICALS (Sem-II)
Alard College Of Pharmacy, Pune.
Under the Guidance of:
Dr. Nalanda Borkar
Head of Department
(Dept. of Pharmaceutics)
Alard College Of Pharmacy, Pune.
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2.  INTRODUCTION TO COSMETICS AND COSMECEUTICALS
 Definition, Types, Ingredients, General formula , Manufacture &
Evaluation of :-
 SHAMPOO
 TOOTHPASTE
 SOAP & SYNDETBAR
 Surfactants: Classification and application.
 Emollients, rheological additives: Classification and application.
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3. COSMETICS :
 Cosmetics are substances or products used to enhance or alter the
appearance of the face or fragrance and texture of the body.
 Many cosmetics are designed for use of applying to the face, hair, and
body.
 They are generally mixtures of chemical compounds; some being derived
from natural sources (such as coconut oil), and some being synthetics or
artificial.
COSMECEUTICALS :
 The name is a combination of "cosmetics" and "pharmaceuticals”.
 Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products with bioactive ingredients purported
to have medical benefits.
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4.  A Shampoo is a preparation of a surfactant in a suitable form –
liquid, solid or powder which when used under the specialized
conditions will remove surface grease, dirt and skin debris from the
hair shaft and scalp without adversely affecting the user.
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5.  1) Surfactants :
(a) Anionic surfactants :
o Alkyl benzene sulphonates
o Alpha olefin sulphonates
o Sulphosuccinates
(b) Non-ionic surfactants :
o Fatty acid alkanolamides
o Polyalkoxylated derivatives
o Amine oxides
(c) Amphoteric surfactants :
o N-alkyl amino acids
o Betains
o Alkyl imidazolines
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6.  2) Conditioning agents :
o Lanolin
o Mineral oil
o Polypeptides
o Egg derivatives
o Herbal extracts
 3) Viscosity modifiers :
(a) Electrolytes : Ammonium chloride, Sodium chloride
(b) Natural gums : Gum tragacanth, Gum karaya, Alginates
(c) Cellulose derivatives : Hydroxyethyl cellulose, Hydroxypropyl cellulose,
Carboxymethyl cellulose
(d) Carboxyvinyl polymers : Polymer of acrylic acid cross-linked with
polyfunctional agent
(e) Others : Ethoxylated fatty acid diesters, Phosphate esters, Polyvinyl
pyrrolidones
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7.  4) Opacifying & Clarifying agents :
o Stearyl alcohol
o Cetyl alcohol
o Propylene glycol
o Phosphates
o Finely dispersed zinc oxide
o Milky emulsions of vinyl polymers
 5) Preservatives : ( Formaldehyde , Esters of para hydroxy benzoic
acid )
 6) Perfumes
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8.  Procedure for preparation of shampoo :-
 Measure the quantity of coconut oil, olive oil , castor oil & take it in a
round bottom flask.
 Potassium hydroxide dissolved in 3/4th quantity of water was added
to it , heat it in a water bath for 70-80ºC with constant shaking for
1hr.
 Take remaining quantity of water and add sodium hexamethyl
cellulose , glycerine , perfume & other ingredients.
 Then mix both the solution to form a uniform shampoo.
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9. POWDER SHAMPOO
LOTION SHAMPOO
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12.  1. Determination of percent of solid contents.
 2. Determination of Ph.
 3. Determination of viscosity
 4. Foaming ability & Foam stability
 5. Skin irritation test
 6. Cleaning action
 7. Dirt dispersion
 8. Surface tension measurement
 9. Eye irritation test
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13. 1) Determination of percent of solid contents :
 A clean dry evaporating dish was weighed and added 4g of shampoo to
it.
 Evaporating dish with the shampoo was weighed.
 The exact weight of shampoo was calculated & the evaporating dish
with the shampoo was placed on a hot plate until the liquid portion
evaporates.
 The weight of shampoo only (solids) after drying was calculated.
2) Determination of pH :
 The pH of 10% shampoo solution in distilled water was determined at
room temperature using a digital pH meter.
3) Determination of viscosity :
 It is determined using Brookfield viscometer .
 100ml of shampoo is taken in a beaker & spindle is dipped in it for
about 5 minutes and then reading is taken.
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14. 4) Foaming ability & Foam stability :
 50ml of 1% shampoo solution was put into a 250ml graduated cylinder and
covered the cylinder with hand and shaken for 10 times.
 The total volume of the foam contents after 1 minute shaking were recorded.
 The foam volume was calculated after shaking the volume of the foam at 1
minute interval for 4 minutes were recorded.
5) Skin irritation test :
 Patch test technique is used here.
 A set of 6 rabbits were used for testing each material.
 The shampoo preparations are diluted between concentrations of 8-10%.
 Patches containing the shampoo preparations were applied & then removed ,
the skin sites were noted for any changes on the surface of skin like edema,
erythema formation.
 These products are then classified as mild irritant, moderate & severe.
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15. 6) Cleaning action :
 5g of wool yarn were placed in grease , after that it was placed in
200ml of water containing 1g of shampoo in a flask .
 Temperature was maintained at 35ºC .
 The flask was shaked for 4 minutes at the rate of 50 times a minute.
 The solution was removed and sample was taken out, dried and
weighed & calculated the amount of grease removed.
7) Dirt dispersion :
 Two drops of shampoo were added in a large test tube containing
10ml of distilled water.
 1 drop of ink was added ; the test tube was stoppered and shaked it
10 times.
 The amount of ink in the foam was estimated as none, light ,
moderate or heavy.
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16. 8) Surface tension measurement :
 Measurements were carried out with a 10% shampoo solution in
distilled water at room temperature.
 Thoroughly clean the stalagmometer with purified water because
surface tension is highly affected with grease or other lubricants.
 Surface tension measurement is done by the following equation :-
9) Eye irritation test :
 About 1% shampoo solution was dripped into the eyes of 6 albino
rats with their eyes held open with the clips at the lid.
 The progressive damage to the rabbit’s eyes was recorded at specific
intervals over an average period of 4 seconds.
 Reaction to the irritants can include swelling of the eyelid ,
inflammation of the iris , ulceration , haemorrhaging and blindness.
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17.  Toothpaste is a paste or gel dentifrice used with a toothbrush as an
accessory to clean & maintain the aesthetics and health of the teeth.
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18. 1) ABRASIVES : These are used to remove food debris and residual
stains of the teeth & to polish the teeth surface.
 Examples: Precipitated calcium carbonate, Calcium phosphate,
Tricalcium phosphate, Calcium pyrophosphate.
2) Detergents & other foaming materials : These are used in toothpaste
for their cleansing action.
 These materials lower surface tension, thereby promoting penetration of
paste & helps in removal of deposits & debris.
 Example: sodium lauryl sulphate, Monoglycerides, Magnesium lauryl
sulphate, Sodium lauryl sulphosuccinate.
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19. 3) Humectants : Humectants in toothpastes are used to prevent their
drying out.
 They also impart some plasticity to toothpastes.
 E.g.: Glycerin, Propylene glycol, Sorbitol.
4) Binding Agent : Solid & liquid phases of toothpaste tends to separate in
the absence of binding agents particularly during storage.
 Binding agents disperse, swell or absorb water to form viscous liquid
phases.
 E.g.: Natural gums (Gum Arabic, Gum tragacanth), Cellulose
derivatives (Carboxy methylcellulose, Sodium carboxymethylcellulose,
Hydroxyethyl cellulose) Starch ethers
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20. 5) Sweetening & flavouring agents : These are the most important
ingredients in toothpaste as they have great influence on the
acceptance of the product.
 E.g.: Saccharin sodium ( 0.05-0.3% ), Chloroform, Peppermint,
Spearmint, Coriander, Caraway, Anise, Eucalyptus
6) Minor ingredients :
o Titanium dioxide
o pH regulators
o Cellulose ethers
o Carrageen
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21. Procedure for preparation of toothpaste :-
 Take half the quantity of water, add tragacanth powder & heat it in a
water bath to get a gel .
 To the remaining quantity of water, add glycerine, sodium lauryl
sulphate , preservative & mix it thoroughly to get a clear solution.
 Weigh the required quantity of saccharin and calcium carbonate
solution & mix it with the help of mortar and pestle.
 To this powder, add gum tragacanth & mix well.
 Add glycerine, preservative & sodium lauryl mixture to it and
triturate uniformly to get a paste.
 Finally add flavouring agent & triturate well.
 Transfer to a narrow mouthed plastic tube , seal & label.
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23.  1) Determination of hard & sharp edged abrasive particles
 2) Determination of spreadability
 3) Determination of fineness
 4) Determination of pH
 5) Determination of foaming power
 6) Moisture content
 7) Determination of heavy metals
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24.  Soaps are sodium or potassium salts of long chain fatty acids.
 When triglycerides in fat/oil react with aqueous NaOH or KOH , they are
converted into soap & glycerol.This is called alkaline hydrolysis of esters.
 Since this reaction leads to the formation of soap , it is called
saponification process.
 The word “Syndet” is derived from ‘synthetic’ combined with
‘detergent’.Technically, it refers to the binding that occurs between
different detergents , also called surfactants.
 Syndet soap surfactants are derived from oils, fats or petroleum products
that are processed from a wide range of chemical processes other than
traditional saponification.
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25. 1 ) Fats & oils : A Fat mixture containing saturated & unsaturated , long &
short chain fatty acids in proportion are used in manufacture of soap.
E.g. :
 A very common mixture for manufacture of soap is 75% tallow & 25%
coconut oil.
 Saturated fatty acids with 12 to 18 carbon atoms include
lauric,myristic,palmitic,stearic & oleic acids are used.
2) Alkali : An important raw material in soap making is caustic soda. E.g. :
 Soda ash can saponify fatty acids & used as a builder in laundry soaps.
 Caustic potash (KOH) is also used in making soft soaps.
 Potassium carbonate can be also used to saponify fatty acids
3) Other additives : Water, Salt (Sodium chloride), Anti-oxidants,
Whiteners , Perfumes, Pigments & Colours.
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26.  Sodium cocoyl isethionate
 Sulphosuccinates
 Alpha olefin sulphonates
 Alkyl glyceryl ether sulphonate
 Sodium cocoyl monoglyceride sulphate
 Betaines
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27.  Soap is manufactured by 3 types of processes :
1) Semi-boiled & cold process :-
 In these processes, fat is reacted with strong alkali.
 After reaction is complete, the entire mass is saponified without the
separation of free glycerine.
 Here, the fat charge is simply heated with required amount of caustic soda.
 After saponification , other ingredients like soap builders are added.
 If the batch is made in a kettle, it may be actually boiled but if the batch is
made in a crutcher , the temperature must be kept little below the boiling
point.
2) Full-boiled process :-
 Here, large cylindrical kettles with cone bottoms equipped with open &
sometimes with closed coils for steam are used.
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28. It includes :
 Saponification reaction:- This is carried out by boiling fat with aqueous alkali
together with open steam.
 Graining out & washing :- After saponification , the soap is grained out by the
addition of salt to the boiling mass.
 Dry salt as well as brine may be used.
 The soap rises to the top of kettle in form of rough mass as soap which is
called ‘kettle wax’.
 The washings are carried out by adding water to the kettle mass.
 Finishing or Fitting operation :- The final operation in soap boiling is fitting
operation.
 Here, the soap is boiled with water & upon standing , the batch will separate
into upper layers consisting of neat soap and lower layer consisting of niger
which retains most of the coloring materials, metallic salts & other
impurities.
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29.  3) Continuous saponification :-
 Here, fats are first converted into fatty acids & glycerine using high
pressure at 500ºC in continuous fat splitting process and fatty acids
are reacted with alkali to form soap.
 This method is suitable for large scale production.
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30. 1) Determination of clarity, colour & odour :- Clarity & colour was
checked by naked eyes against white background , odour was
smelled.
2) Determination of pH :- The formulation were dissolved in 100ml of
distilled water & stored for 2hrs. The measurement of pH of the
formulation was done in previously calibrated pH meter.
3) Determination of foam height :-
 0.5g of sample of soap was taken, dispersed in 25ml distilled water.
 Then transferred it into 100ml measuring cylinder.
 Volume was adjusted to 50ml with water.
 Shaken the above sample solution 25 times and measured the foam
height
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31. 4) Determination of percentage of free alkali :-
 About 5g of sample was taken in a conical flask and added it into 50ml
of neutralized alcohol.
 It was boiled under reflux on a water bath for 30min ,cooled & 1ml of
phenolphthalein solution was added.
 It was then titrated immediately with 0.1N HCl.
5) Determination of alcohol insoluble matter :-
 5g of sample was taken in a conical flask, added it to 50ml of warm
ethanol & shaken vigorously to dissolve .
 The solution was filtered through a filter paper with 20ml warm ethanol
and dried it at 105ºc for 1hr.
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32.  Surfactants are termed as surface-active agents also wetting agents,
emulsifying agents or suspending agents depending on its properties and
use.
 Surface-active agents are substances which, at low concentrations, adsorb
onto the surfaces or interfaces of a system and alter the surface or
interfacial free energy and the surface or interfacial tension.
 Surfactants are monomers, it has a characteristic structure possessing both
hydrophobic groups / non-polar regions (their "tails") usually contain a
C12– C18 hydrocarbon chain and hydrophilic groups / Polar Regions(their
"heads").
 Therefore, they are soluble in both organic solvents and water, so they
called amphiphilic.
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33.  Surfactant can be classified based on charge groups present in their head.
 A nonionic surfactant do not have any charge groups over its head.
 The head of an ionic surfactant carries a net charge.
 If the charge is negative, the surfactant is more specifically called anionic
and if the charge is positive, it is called cationic.
 If a surfactant contains a head with two oppositely charged groups, it is
termed zwitterion.
1. Anionic surfactants
2. Cationic surfactants
3. Non-ionic surfactants
4. Zwitterionic/ amphoteric surfactants
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34. (a)Anionic surfactants: In solution, the head is negatively charged.
 These surfactants are the most widely used type of surfactant for preparing shampoos
because of its excellent cleaning properties and high hair conditioning effects.
 Anionic surfactants are particularly effective at oil cleaning and oil/clay suspension.
 The most commonly used anionic surfactants are alkyl sulphates, alkyl ethoxylate
sulphates and soaps.
 Most of the anionic surfactants are carboxylate ,sulfate and sulfonate ions .
(b) Cationic Surfactants: In solution, the head of the cationic surfactant is positively
charged.
 Cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds and they are mostly used
for their disinfectant and preservative properties as they have good bactericidal
properties.
 They are used on skin for cleansing wounds or burns.
 Mostly used cationic surfactants are cetrimide which has tetradecyl trimethyl
ammonium bromide with minimum amount of dodecyl and hexadecyl compounds.
Other cationic surfactants are benzalkonium chloride,cetylpyridinium chloride etc.
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35. (c) Non-Ionic Surfactants: Those surfactants do not have any electrical
charge, which makes them resistant to water hardness deactivation.
 They are less irritant than other anionic or cationic surfactants.
 The hydrophilic part contains the polyoxyethylene ,polyoxypropylene or
polyol derivatives.
 The hydrophobic part contains saturated or unsaturated fatty acids or fatty
alcohols They are excellent grease/oil removers and emulsifiers.
 The non ionic surfactant can be classified as:
1. The Polyol esters includes glycol and glycerol esters and sorbitan
derivatives.
2. Polyoxyethylene esters includes polyethylene glycol (PEG 40, PEG -50,
PEG- 55).
3. The most commonly used non-ionic surfactants (poloxamers) are ethers
of fatty Alcohols.
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36. (d) Amphoteric/Zwitterionic Surfactants: These surfactants are very
mild, making them particularly suited for use in personal care
preparations over sensitive skins.
 They can be anionic (negatively charged), cationic (positively charged)
or non-ionic (no charge) in solution, depending on the acidity or pH of
the water.
 Those surfactants may contain two charged groups of different sign.
Whereas the positive charge is almost always ammonium but the
source of the negative charge may vary (carboxylate, sulphate,
sulphonate).
 These surfactants have excellent dermatological properties.
 They are frequently used in shampoos and other cosmetic products, and
also in hand dishwashing liquids because of their high foaming
properties.
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37.  Cleaning/Detergents (40%)
 An adhesive
 An emulsifier
 Textiles
 Fabric Softener
 An ink
 Paint
 Anti-fogs
 Shampoos
 Toothpastes
 Oil dispersants
 Wetting
 Ski Wax
 Snowboard Wax
 Foaming
 Defoaming
 Quantum dot coating
 Biocides (Sanitizers)
 Hair Conditioners (after shampoo)
 Paper Production
 Mining (Flotation)
 Cosmetics
 Food
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38.  Moisturizers or emollients are complex mixtures of chemical agents
specially designed to make the external layers of the skin softer and more
liable.
 Emollients are safe and effective – a good skin care routine using emollients
can smoother, moisturize, and protect the skin, so helping to reduce the
number of eczema flares.
 The emollients in this factsheet are available on prescription, and can also be
bought over the counter from a pharmacy
 Emollients trap moisture in the skin and form a protective oily layer on the
outer skin surface which helps skin repair and improves skin hydration. And
keep the skin soft and moist.
 The common emollients are: Shea butter, Cocoa butter, Mineral oil, Lanolin,
Petrolatum, Paraffin, Beeswax, Squalene, Coconut, jojoba, sesame, almond,
and other plant oils, Cetyl alcohol, Olive oil (oleic acid), Triethylhexanoin.
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39.  Emollient type according to use:
1. Soap substitutes: Soap is very drying for the skin and should be avoided
in people with dry skin conditions. Any emollient (except white soft
paraffin alone) can be used with water to cleanse the skin, as they do not
remove the natural oils in the skin.
2. Leave-on emollients: These emollients are applied directly onto the skin
and left on to soak in. They are not washed off the skin (as with soap
substitutes).
3. Ointments : These are greasy in nature. They are usually made of white
soft paraffin or liquid paraffin, and are ideal for very dry or thickened
skin and night-time application. They do not usually contain preservatives
(ingredients that help to protect the product from bacteria/germs and
increase its shelf-life) and are therefore less likely to cause skin reactions.
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40. 4. Creams: These contain a mixture of oil and water and are less
greasy, and therefore easier to spread on the skin than ointments.
They must be used frequently and applied liberally to prevent the
skin from drying out. Creams usually come in a container with a
pump dispenser and are good for day-time application.
5. Lotions: These contain the least oil and most water so are the least
effective in moisturizing the skin. They normally contain
preservatives so may cause skin irritation. Lotions are useful for
hairy areas such as scalps and areas of weepy skin.
6. Hydrating gel: Gels are formed from molecules that make a three-
dimensional network, which then traps other molecules in the
spaces of the network. They are relatively light and non-greasy,
despite having a reasonably high oil content. They should be
applied every 3–4 hours.
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41.  Rheology is the science of flow. Every time a lotion is poured, a
cream squeezed from a tube or a lipstick applied, rheology is
involved.
 Even when products are at rest, it plays an important part in
controlling stability and suspension.
 The rheology of a system is described in terms of its viscosity.
Viscosity is the resistance to flow and defined as;
viscosity = shear stress/ shear rate
 Shear stress is the force per unit area applied and shear rate is the
resulting velocity gradient.
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42.  Aqueous phase additives
 Rheolux associated thickeners
 Hectorite
 Bentone hydrofillic clays
 Non aqueous phase additives
 Bentone organophilic clays
 Bentone gel
 Thixcine R rheological additive
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43.  Aqueous phase additives
 Rheolux associated thickeners : The rheoluxe family of rheology
modifiers are non-ionic polymeric thickeners designed specifically for
the personal care market.
 Hectorite : Hectorite is a unique swelling clay offering several
advantages. It is able to form strong, stable viscous gels & it is a very
effective thickener of water. Because of this and its other exceptional
properties, it forms the basis as rheological additives in cosmetics.
 Bentone hydrofillic clays: The benefits gained are; thermostable viscosity
control, thixotropic flow, emulsion stabilization, silky skin feel.
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44.  Non aqueous phase additives
 Bentone organophilic clays :The correct choice of bentone additive is
determined largely by the polarity of the system to be thickened.
BENTONE organoclays form thixotropic gels by developing hydrogen
bond bridges between the edges of adjacent platelets.
 Bentone gel : The use of a BENTONE GEL enables you, the formulator,
to achieve the maximum efficiency from the organoclay without the
need for careful shearing and activation. On the production scale, time is
saved and the highest degree of reproducibility attained, leading to
potential cost savings.
 Thixcine R rheological additive : For the highest degree of thixotropy in
aliphatic liquids, Thixcin R additive is the product to use. In addition to
its effective rheological properties, it gives water repellency, stabilizes
emulsions and acts as a stiffening agent in lipsticks and ointments. It can
also be used as a dry binder in pressed powder systems.
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45.  Stick products (lipstick and antiperspirant)
 maintain homogeneity in molten and setting stages
 increase high-temperature integrity
 eliminate oil migration
 reduce “creasing” around lips and eyes
 Mascara
 improve film-build
 increase water-resistance
 eliminate oil migration
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46.  Emulsions
 elevate drop-point temperature of water-in-oil creams
 eliminate syneresis
 improve emulsion stability
 enable cold-process emulsification
 create novel viscosity effects
 UV Sunscreen
 eliminate ultrafine titanium di oxide skin-whitening problems
 enhance sun protection factor (SPF)
 optimize use of sunscreen actives
 reduce separation and settlement
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47.  Antiperspirant Aerosols
 uniform distribution of active ingredients
 soft and dry skin feel
 significant less whitening
 reduced separation and settlement
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48.  https://www.slideshare.net/AlexaJacob1/building-blocks-of-different-
product-formulations-of-cosmetics Assessed Date: 10/06/2021
 https://www.slideshare.net/Gauravchaudhary199/building-blocks-for-
different-cosmetics Assessed Date: 10/06/2021
 https://www.slideshare.net/SidduKM1/building-blocks-for-different-product-
formulations-of-cosmetics Assessed Date: 10/06/2021
 https://www.slideshare.net/pramodpise1/emollients-rheological-additives-
and-antimicrobial-used-as-preservatives Assessed Date: 10/06/2021
 https://www.slideshare.net/sayedasalma/rheological-additives Assessed
Date: 10/06/2021
 https://www.slideshare.net/jamalkhan616/surfactants-and-their-
applications-in-pharmaceutical-dosage-form Assessed Date: 10/06/2021
 https://www.slideshare.net/sachinpatel5912/surfactants-56936122
Assessed Date: 10/06/2021
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