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from the hair shaft and scalp without adversely affecting the user.
Surfactant are the main components of shampoo preparation. Mainly anionic surfactant is used. A
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b. Acne
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1. EMOLLIENTS AND RHEOLOGICAL
ADDITIVE
Submitted By: Prachi Pandey Submitted To: Dr. Himmat Singh Chawra
M. Pharm (Pharmaceutics), IInd Sem.
Subject: Molecular Pharmaceutics (Nano Tech & TDDS)
Department of Pharmaceutics, NIMS Institute of Pharmacy, NIMS University Jaipur, Rajasthan, India, 303121
2. EMOLLIENT
Emollients are medical moisturising treatments applied
directly to the skin to soothe and hydrate it.
They cover the skin with a protective film to trap in
moisture.
Emollients are often used to help manage dry, itchy or scaly
skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis and ichthyosis.
They help prevent patches of inflammation and flare-ups of
these conditions.
They help to repair the damaged natural barrier of the skin,
also protect from irritation and infections and can reduce
redness, swelling and itching.
3.
4. TYPES OF EMOLLIENTS
Emollients are available as:
CREAMS
SOAP SUBSTITUTES
OINTMENTS
LOTIONS
BATH ADDITIVES
SPRAY
5. CREAM
These are not particularly greasy.
They are absorbed quite quickly so do not stain clothes.
They are good for daytime use.
Examples: Diprobase cream, Hydromol cream, Oilatum cream,
Aveeno cream, Cetraben E45 cream, Doublebase.
Containing antibacterial: Dermol 500
Containing urea: Calmurid Hydromol extra
Examples for shower(cleansing): Dermol shower, E45
Shower
6. SOAP SUBSTITUTE
Soap dries the skin and can make it itchy. Use soap substitutes
for all washing. These cleanse the skin effectively BUT do not
lather like soap.
Many creams and ointments may be used as soap substitutes.
Examples: Cetraben, Wash E45, Diprobase cream Emulsifying
ointment Dermol 500 (which contains antibacterial), Hydromol
ointment Epaderm.
7. OINTMENTS
These are greasy and are particularly useful for very dry or itchy
skin because they hydrate the skin better than creams.
They do take longer to be absorbed and may make your clothes
greasy.
Some people prefer to use these at night.
Examples: Epaderm, 50% white soft paraffin in liquid paraffin
(50/50 mix) Hydromol Emulsifying ointment
WARNING: Skin products containing white soft paraffin and
emulsifying ointment are easily ignited with a naked flame or a
cigarette.
8. LOTIONS
They are good for hairy or damaged areas of skin (such
as weeping eczema).
They are thin and can spread easily.
But they're not very moisturising.
Example: Dermocalm lotion.
9. BATH ADDITIVES
Bubbles (like soap) can irritate and dry skin. Emollient bath additives
should be added to the bath water to help to moisturise your skin and
leave a fine film on skin after bathing.
TAKE CARE as they will make the bath slippery.
Examples: Oilatum Balneum Diprobath, Bath E45 Hydromol Aveeno
bath oil.
With antimicrobials: Oilatum plus (with anti microbial) Dermol.
10. SPRAY
They are good for hard-to-reach areas.
They are also used for sore or infected skin that shouldn't be
touched.
They are quickly absorbed.
Example: Emollin 50:50 spray: A spray formulation easier to apply.
11. AGENTS USED IN EMOLLIENTS
A. Lanolin and its derivatives
Lanolin is a nautral wax.
It helps to maintain the epidermis in a normal condition.
Its hydrophobic and adhesive character makes it an excellent
occlusive agent and a good emollient.
Lanolin derivatives are
Lanolin alcohol.
Modified lanolins: Liquid lanolins, Esterified lanolin alcohol
Acetylated lanolin alcohol Polyoxyalkylene lanolins.
12. B. STEROLS:
Cholesterol is the only sterol used.
It lessen the irritating and defatting action of
emollient.
It helps emollient to penetrate into the epidermis and
impart suppleness to skin.
C. PHOSPHOLIPIDS:
They are complex fat soluble substance.
They act as an emollient.
Example: Lecitin, excellent emulsifier, emollient as
well as surfactant.
13. D. FATTY ACID
Stearic acid is the only one of choice.
Its helps to retain consistency of the end product.
E. FATTY ACID ESTERS
They leave a thin oily film on the skin which is greasy
because of their oily and low viscocity characteristic.
Example: Butyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, Isopropyl
palmitate, polyesters (like glyceryl- monostearate).
F. FATTY ALCOHOLS
They produce occlusive films that help to induce
hydration of skin.
Example: Cetyl and stearyl alcohols.
14. SKIN REACTIONS
Emollients can sometimes cause a skin reaction, such as:
An overheating, burning sensation or stinging that doesn't
settle after a few days of treatment - usually caused by a
reaction to a certain ingredient contained in the emollient.
Blocked or inflamed hair follicles (folliculitis) that may cause
boils rashes on the face that can aggravate acne.
If you experience any of these symptoms, talk to your doctor,
nurse or pharmacist.
15. APPLICATION OF EMOLLIENTS
Emollients are effective for soothing and healing dry skin due to
almost any cause, including:
For eczema and psoriasis.
Atopic dermatitis
Hypothyroidism causes dryness of skin
Diabetic foot
Kidney disease causing itchy skin
Emollients can treat other skin conditions like skin irritations such as
burns from radiation treatments and diaper rash.
Emollients can help improve and control all the symptoms and heal
skin whatever the cause.
16. SAFETY MEASURES
Follow this general safety advice when using emollients:
• Keep away from fire, flames and cigarettes when using paraffin- based emollients. Dressings and clothing
soaked with the ointment can be easily ignited.
• Use a clean spoon or spatula to remove emollients from a pot or tub. This reduces the risk of infections
from contaminated pots.
• Take care of slipping when using emollients in a bath or shower, or on a tiled floor. Protect the floor with a
non-slip mat, towel or sheet. Wearing protective gloves, wash your bath or shower after with hot water and
washing up liquid, then dry with a kitchen towel.
• Never use more than the recommended amount of bath additive. It may cause skin irritation if the
concentration is too high, particularly when used with antiseptic bath oils.
• Be careful of using aqueous cream. It can cause burning, stinging, itching and redness for some people,
especially children with atopic eczema.
18. RHEOLOGICALADDITIVES
Rheology is the science of flow.
Every time a lotion is poured, a cream squeezed from a
tube or a lipstick applied, rheology is involved.
Even when products are at rest, it plays an important part
in controlling stability and suspension.
Understanding a formulation's rheological needs enables
to create the best possible products.
19. The rheology of a system is described in
terms of its viscosity.
Viscosity is the resistance to flow and
defined as the force applied by the
resulting rate:
Viscosity =
𝐒𝐡𝐞𝐚𝐫 𝐬𝐭𝐫𝐞𝐬𝐬
𝐒𝐡𝐞𝐚𝐫 𝐫𝐚𝐭𝐞
Shear stress is the force per unit area
applied and shear rate is the resulting
velocity gradient.
20. CLASSIFICATION OF RHEOLOGICALADDITIVE
Aqueous phase additives:
Rheolux associated thikeners
Hectorite
Bentone hydrofillic clays
Non aqueous phase additives:
Bentone organophilic clays
Bentone gel
Thixcine R rheological additive
21. AQUEOUS PHASE ADDITIVES
A. Rheoluxe Associative Thickeners
The Rheoluxe family of rheology modifiers are non-ionic
polymeric thickeners designed specifically for the personal
care market.
Rheoluxe consists of urethane based and Polyether Polyol
based associative thickeners with superior performance in
difficult systems such as those containing high salt levels or
with extremes in pH.
Due to its structure, Rheoluxe is soluble in water, but
associates with lipophilic materials to build viscosity.
22. ASSOCIATIVE THICKENERS - MECHANISM OF
ACTION
Associative thickeners increase the viscosity of aqueous
systems through a system of molecular associations and
interactions.
The thickeners consist of water soluble polymeric chains
modified with hydrophobic caps.
The hydrophobic caps of the polymer associate, that is
build a structured network with other hydrophobes in the
formula.
This results in micelle type structures that form a network
resulting in significant viscosity build.
23. HECTORITE
Hectorite is a unique swelling clay offering several
advantages. hectorite's special properties, compared
with bentonite, are:
lower iron content
lighter colour
higher swelling capacity
greater gel strength
no crystalline silica
Due to its small size, platelet shape and large
surface area, hectorite is able to form strong, stable
viscous gels.
24. BENTONE HYDROPHILIC CLAYS
BENTONE MA, EW, and LT rheological additives
provide thixotropy and suspension control to the aqueous
phase.
BENTONE MA and EW additives form gels by producing
an open, 3-dimensional network of the individual clay
platelets.
BENTONE LT forms a similar network, but it is
strengthened by the presence of a special cellulose,
greatly enhancing stability and thickening characteristics.
25. NON-AQUEOUS-PHASE ADDITIVES
Surfactants can influence the rheological behaviour of hydrophilic clays.
Non-ionic surfactants, if they are highly ethoxylated, can adsorb onto the clay surface. This rarely causes
problems either in flow control or activity of the formulation.
Anionic surfactants can act as dispersing agents and weaken the gel structure. Alternatives that eliminate
or minimise any problems can normally be found.
Cationic surfactants interact strongly and should be avoided.
Organic and silicone-based liquids used in oil and wax-basede cosmetics, and as the non-aqueous-phase in
emulsions, benefit greatly from ELEMENTIS Specialties rheological additives.
Outstanding rheological properties are developed using BENTONE organoclay rheological additives in
their powder form or, even better, with BENTONE GEL additives, their predispersed forms.
26. ADVANTAGES
Thermostable viscosity control.
Thixotropic flow.
Suspension control of pigments and actives.
Emulsion stabilisation.
Silky skin feel.
27. OBENTONE ORGANOPHILIC CLAYS
Hectorite is now reacted with special vegetable quaternary
ammonium salts to produce organoclays able to thicken and gel
organic liquids.
The correct choice of BENTONE additive is determined largely by
the polarity of the system to be thickened.
BENTONE organoclays form thixotropic gels by developing
hydrogen bond bridges between the edges of adjacent platelets.
Additive Application
Bentone® 27 V Intermediate to high-polarity organic systems such as esters and triglycerides - for nail
lacquers, skin care, antiperspirants and lip products.
Bentone® 38V Low to intermediate-polarity organic systems such as volatile silicones and mineral oil-for
antiperspirants, creams, lotions, eye products and suntan products.
28. BENTONE GEL
BENTONE GEL additives are optimally dispersed and activated
predispersions of ELEMENTIS Specialties organoclays.
Benefits include:
Optimally dispersed.
High-shear dispersion not necessary.
No polar activation require and easy to handle and use.
Can be added at any appropriate and convenient stage in manufacture.
A wide range of gels made from various cosmetics oils, esters and
solvents are available.
The use of a BENTONE GEL enables to achieve the maximum
efficiency from the organoclay without the need for careful shearing and
activation.
On the production scale, time is saved and the highest degree of
reproducibility attained, leading to potential cost savings.
29. THIXCIN R RHEOLOGICALADDITIVE
For the highest degree of thixotropy in aliphatic liquids,
Thixcin R additive is the product to use.
In addition to its effective rheological properties, it gives
water repellence, stabilises emulsions and acts as a
stiffening agent in lipsticks and ointments.
It can also be used as a dry binder in pressed powder
systems.
It is a castor oil derivative.
It requires temperature-controlled activation within the
range 55-60°C (130-140°F) and high-shear mixing to
develop its full structure.
30. APPLICATION
Stick products (lipstick and antiperspirant)
Maintain homogeneity in molten and setting
stages
Gain improved pay-out
Increase high-temperature integrity
Eliminate oil migration
Reduce "creasing" around lips and eyes
Mascara
Improve film-build
Increase water-resistance
Eliminate oil migration
31. Emulsions
Elevate drop-point temperature of water-in-oil creams
Eliminate syneresity and improve emulsion stability
Enable cold-process emulsification
Create novel viscosity effects
UV Sunscreen
Eliminate ultrafine Tio2 skin-whitening problems
Enhance sun protection factor (SPF)
Optimise use of sunscreen actives
Reduce separation and settlement
32. Antiperspirants Aerosols:
Uniform distribution of active ingredients.
Soft and dry skin feel.
Significant less whitening.
Reduced separation and settlement.