Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aromatic compounds, fixatives and solvents used to give the human body, animal, food objects and living spaces a pleasant scent. It has been used for centuries by mankind. Perfumes are supposed to release a continuous pleasant. Fragrance that will provide a long lasting feeling of freshness. Initially it was only used for religious purpose but now it has become an ornament of sophistication for both men and women.

1. PERFUME
SUBMITTED BY-Himadri priya Gogoi
M pharm first year
ACP22PHCE004
Cosmetics and cosmeceuticals
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2. content
• Perfumes: Classification of perfumes
• Perfume ingredients listed as allergens in EU regulation.
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3. WHAT IS PERFUME
• Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aromatic compounds, fixatives
and solvents used to give the human body, animal, food objects and living spaces
a pleasant scent.
• It has been used for centuries by mankind.
• Perfumes are supposed to release a continuous pleasant.
• Fragrance that will provide a long lasting feeling of freshness.
• Initially it was only used for religious purpose but now it has become an
ornament of sophistication for both men and women.
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4. HISTORY OF PERFUMES
• The Egyptians were the first who used perfume for personal enjoyment, but the
production of perfume was reserved for the priests and they used it in religious
purpose.
• The Greek used an extraordinary amount of perfume and for each part of the
body they used a different fragrance for hygiene and cult of the body.
• The history of the Arabs is the fusion of art and science. Two talented Arabian
chemists-Jadir ibn Hayyan and Al- Kindi established the perfume industry.
• The Romans used perfume as a part of luxury.
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5. • The oldest perfumery was discovered on the island of Cyprus 4,000 years ago
indicating that perfume manufacturing was on an industrial scale.
• The Hungarians introduced the first modern perfume, made of scented oils
blended in an alcohol solution at the command of Queen Elizabeth of
Hungary.
• France is the birthplace of modern perfumery. France provided to grow
aromatic plants for perfume industry with raw materials. Even today, France
remains the center of the European perfume design and trade.
• England and Germany also contributed a lot in modernization of perfumery.
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6. Notes in perfumes
Perfume is described in a musical metaphor as having three sets of notes, making
the harmonious scent accord.
• These notes are created carefully with knowledge of the evaporation process of
the perfume.
• The three notes are:
a. Top notes
b. Middle notes
c. Base notes
• Each of these levels, however has its own primary purpose
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8. Top notes:-
• They are generally the lightest of all notes and recognized immediately after
application. Top notes consist of small, light molecules with high volatility that
evaporate quickly.
• Common fragrances of top notes include citrus (lemon, orange zest), light fruits
(grape, berries) and herbs (clary sage, lavender).
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9. Middle Notes:-
• The middle notes, or the heart notes, make an appearance once the top notes
evaporate. The middle note compounds form the "heart" or main body of a
perfume and act to mask the often unpleasant initial impression of base notes,
which become more pleasant with time.
• Common fragrances of middle notes includes rose, lemon, ylang ylang, lavender,
nutmeg and jasmine.
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10. Base notes:
• Base notes or bottom or dry notes appear while middle notes are fading. The
base and middle notes together are the main theme of a perfume. Base notes
bring depth and solidity to a perfume. Common fragrances of base notes include
sandalwood, vanilla, amber and musk etc.
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11. Classification of perfumes
Classification on basis of their origin
1.Essential Oils – Citronella oil, Lemon grass oil, Sandalwood Oil, Orange Oil,
Eucalyptus Oil, Lavender Oil, Clove Oil, Patchouli Oil etc.
2.Semi-synthetic Materials – Origin will be natural –Subject to reactions alone ,
Hydroxy citronella, Vanillin
3. Animal Origin – Deer Musk, Civet musk(glandular secretion of viverridae
species)
4. Purely Synthetic Materials – Lilial , AldehydeC-12 MNA, Amyl Cinnamic
Aldehyde, Galaxolide etc.
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12. Classification by Functional Groups
• Hydrocarbons – Open, Cyclic, Aromatic (Saturated or unsaturated) compounds
• Alcohol – Primary, secondary, tertiary alcohol
• Aldehydes / Ketones
• Esters
• Ethers
• Lactones
• Phenols
• Halogen containing compounds – Rose crystals
• Nitrile – Geranyl nitrile
• Sulphur containing – Dimethyl Sulphides
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13. Classification on Fragrance Family
1. Floral - Rose, Jasmine, Lavender white flower
2. Citrus - Lemon, Orange, Bergamot, citrus
3. Fruity- Apple, Raseberry, Strawberry, Peach, Grape fruit
4. Woody - Cedarwood, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Patchouli
5.Herbal - Lemongrass, Citronella, Peppermint, Spearmint
6. Spicy – Cinnamon, Clove, Nutmeg
7. Musky / animalic – Civet, Musk, Synthetic musk
8. Aldehydic - Aldehyde C-10, Aldehyde C-11, Aldehyde C-12, Aldehyde C-
14
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14. Perfumes are classified into five major groups on the basis of
concentration of fragrance and duration of lasting:
• Parfume(perfume)
• Eau de parfume
• Eau de toilette
• Eau de cologne
• Eau fraiche
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15. Manufacturing process
• Perfumes can be manufactured by following steps:
I. Collection
II. Extraction
III. Blending
IV. Aging
I. Collection: Before beginning the manufacturing process the sources of suitable
fragrances are collected in the manufacturing center.
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16. II. EXTRATION: Oils are extracted from plants and other substances by several
methods like:
a. Steam distillation: Steam is passed through plant materials held in a still,
whereby the essential oil turns to gas. This gas is then passed through tubes,
cooled, liquefied and collected
b. Solvent extraction: The flower parts are dissolved in benzene or petrolatum
that retains the fragrance of the flower. Alcohol is used to dissolve the fragrance
and heated to obtain it after evaporation of alcohol.
c. Enfleurage: Flowers are kept in glass sheet with grease that absorb the
fragrance of flowers.
d. Expression: The citrus fruits or plants are manually or mechanically pressed
until all the oil is squeezed out.
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17. III. Blending: Once the perfume oils are collected, they are ready to be blended
together according to a formula determined by a master in the field, known as a
"nose.” After the scent has been created, it is mixed with alcohol. Most of the
perfumes are made of about 10-20% perfume oils dissolved in alcohol and a
trace of water.
IV. Aging: Fine perfume is often aged for several months or even years after
blending to ensure that the pleasant scent has been achieved.
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18. COMPOSITION
• Perfumes are mainly composed of –
1. Essential oil
• Derived from natural aromatic plant extracts and/or synthetic aromatic
chemicals. E.g. limonene, linalool, geraniol, citral etc.
2.Fixatives
• Natural or synthetic substances used to reduce the evaporation rate. E.g. benzyl
benzoate, benzyl alcohol etc.
3.Solvents
• The liquid in which the perfume oil is dissolved in is
• usually 98% ethanol and 2% water.
• Alcohol allows fragrance to spread along with it and does not permit microbial
growth in the perfume.
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• Formula for perfume

20. INGREDIENTS CAUSING ALLERGIC
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21. REASONS FOR USING PERFUME
• To mask body odor
• Helps to get rid of anxiety and depression
• Positive mood enhancer
• Confident booster
• For religious purpose
• To be fresh and chilled all day long
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22. EUROPEAN UNION GUIDELINES
ON PERFUMES
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23. EU Regulations(Perfume allergens)
• In 1999, a set of 26 fragrance allergens with a well-recognized potential to
cause allergy had been identified, for which information should be provided to
consumers about their presence in cosmetic products.
• On this basis, the Cosmetics directive required that the presence of any of
these 26 substances be indicated in the list of ingredients when its
concentration exceeds 0.001 % in leave-on products and 0.01 % in rinse-off
products.
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24. • From the few population-based studies, it can be estimated that the frequency of
contact allergy to fragrance ingredients in the general population in Europe is 1-3%.
• The present opinion by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) updates
a opinion with the Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and Non-Food
Products (SCCNFP) using a systematic and critical review of the scientific literature to
identify fragrance allergens, including natural extracts, relevant to consumers.
• The evidence was evaluated according to clearly defined criteria and the substances
were then categorized as
(i) established contact allergens (in humans or animals)
(ii) likely contact allergens
(iii) possible contact allergens
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25. 26 allergens are as follows
• Amyl cinnamal
• Benzyl alcohol
• Cinnamyl alcohol
• Citral
• Eugenol
• Hydroxy citronellal
• Isoeugenol
• Amylcinnamyl alcohol
• Benzyl salicylate
• Cinnamal
• Coumarin
• Hydroxy isohexyl 3-cyclohexane
• Carboxaldehyde
• Anise alcohol
• Benzyl cinnamate
• Farnesol
• Butylphenyly methylpropional
• Lialool
• Benzyl benzoate
• Citronellol
• Hexyl cinnamal
• Limonene
• Methyl 2-octynoate
• Alpha-isomethyl ionone
• Evemia prunastri
• Evemia furfuracea
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26. Psychology of using Perfumes
• When we inhale the odorant molecules of a perfume, it not only creates the
sensation of odor but also creates emotions and experiences associated with
it. For instance, we focus on the pleasant childhood memories associated
with the smell of vanilla.
• Another reason behind perfume use is to increase ones attractiveness in the
eyes of other people.
• We wear a perfume which best expresses our individuality, our tastes and
our character.
• using Perfume may become a habit and without it a person may feel
incomplete.
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27. Controversial ingredients
Parabens
• Parabens are widely used preservatives and it is used in various pharmaceuticals
products. They are a series of P- hydroxybenzoates or esters of P-hydroxybenzoic
acid.
• It is used in many cosmetic formulations such as shampoos, shaving gels ,
commercial moisturizers, topical/ parentral preparations, tanning solution,
toothpaste and also in a food additives.
• Its antibacterial mode of action is not well understood but it is more effective
against broad spectrum of microorganisms by inhibiting the synthesis of DNA
and RNA.
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28. • Common parabens include are: methyl paraben, propyl paraben, ethyl paraben
and butyl paraben.
• Parabens are controversial due to following factors given by American cancer
society and FDA.
• According to research, it is found that it is relatively safe, posing only a negligible
risk to the endocrine systems.
• Allergic reactions
• Breast cancer
• Estrogenic activity
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29. • Parabens can mimic hormones in the body and disrupt functions of the endocrine
system.
• Paraben can enter in your body through your skin when you applied it on the skin.
• According to survey, the body can absorb as much as 5 pounds of cosmetic chemicals
every year.
Health concerns:
Breast cancer :- Cornell university reports that a high lifelong exposure to paraben can
increase risk of it.
• Paraben accumulate in fat cells including breast tissues and leads to cause breast
cancer.
• Eg.: methyl paraben
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30. • Early puberty
• Paraben are having ability to adversely affect the endocrine system. It also
results in early puberty in adolescent girls and boys. Paraben causes
defectiveness in male reproductive system , results in decrease in sperm level
concentration.
• Regulations: The European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS)
reiterated in 2013 that methyl paraben and ethyl paraben are safe at the
maximum authorized concentration [upto 0.4% for one ester or 0.8% used in
combination] They concluded that the use of butyl paraben and propyl paraben
as preservatives in finished cosmetics products is safe to the consumer.
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31. Alternatives for parabens
• Phenoxyethanol- used in the EU at upto 1.0% in all product categories.
• Sodium benzoate in combination with potassium sorbate, upto 2.5%in rinse off
products, 1.7% in oral care products,0.5% in leave-on products.
• Benzyl alcohol upto 1.0% and dehydroacetic acid upto 0.6%.
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32. FORMALDEHYDE
• Formaldehyde is a colorless, strong-smelling gas used in a wide range of
industries and products including building materials, walls, cabinets furniture
and personal care products
• FOUND IN: Nail polish, nail glue, eyelash glue, hair gel, hair- smoothing products,
baby shampoo, body soap, body wash, color cosmetics 35
• Formaldehyde is classified as a probable human carcinogen by the
Environmental Protection Agency, and also skin irritation.
• Vulnerable populations:
• Infants
• Hair salon workers
• Nail salon workers
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33. Cancer
• Formaldehyde is considered as a known human carcinogenic by many experts
and government bodies.
• A 2014 study found that formaldehyde initiates and promotes tumour formation.
• It enters into a body through an inhalation of formaldehyde containing
formulations leads to cause cancer.
Irritation
• Formaldehyde, in the 2015 by American contact dermatitis society considered as
contact allergen of the year.
• It also results in occurrence of sensitivity.
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34. Regulations
• Banned from use in cosmetics and toiletries in Japan and Sweden.
• EU allows the use of quaternium 15 upto 0.2% as preservatives in cosmetics
products.
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35. How to avoid: Skin hair smoothing products especially those sold in salons, as
salon based products are exempted from labelling laws.
• Don’t use expired cosmetics products or store cosmetic products in the sun
because this can cause more formaldehyde to be released.
• Choose nail products that are labeled formaldehyde free or toxic free (
formaldehyde, toluene and DBP).
On label:
• Quaternium-15
a) It is a quaternary ammonium salt used as a surfactant and preservatives in
many cosmetics and pharmaceutical products.
b) It is found in mascara, lotion and shampoo.
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36. Glyoxal
• Glyoxal is the smallest dialdehyde and organic compound which is yellow
colored liquid that evaporates to give a green colored gas.
• It is found in conditioner , lotion, nail polish , etc
• The expert panel has declared that glyoxal is an skin allergen.
Bromopol
• It is found in nail polish, makeup remover, moisturizer and bodywash.
• It is safe in concentration less than 0.1% but cannot be found in formulations
with the amine.
• Mixing bromopol and amines produce nitrosamines which have been found to
penetrate to skin and cause cancer.
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37. 1,4 DIOXANES
• This petroleum-derived carcinogen ends up in personal care products as a
byproduct of the chemical process that creates sulfates.
• The International Agency for Research on Cancer ranks it as a possible
carcinogen, and the National Toxicology Program also calls it a reasonably
anticipated carcinogen.
• It remains on California’s Proposition 65 list of substances known to cause cancer
or birth defects, and is known (at the very least) to cause skin irritation.
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38. • The ethoxylation process, where carcinogenic ethylene oxide added to make
harsh ingredients milder, also produces 1,4-dioxane as a byproduct, another
hidden ingredient in cosmetics and personal care products.
• If a manufacturer does test for 1,4-dioxane contamination and subsequently
does not use vacuum-stripping method to remove it, the dangerous chemical
remains in the final product.
• Most commonly 1,4-dioxane is found in products like shampoo, liquid soap
and bubble bath.
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39. • Environmental Working Group’s analysis suggests that 97% of hair relaxers,
57% of baby soaps and 22% of all products in skip deep may be contaminated
with 1,4-dioxane.
• According to survey of campaign for safe cosmetics in 2017, showed that
popular brands of childrens bubble bath and body wash contained 1,4- dioxane.
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40. Vulnerable population:
• Infants
• Teenagers
• Pregnant womens
Regulations: As per regulations, it is found that limit for dioxane safe for human is
10 ppm.
There are several ways to avoid the formation of 1,4- dioxane in the ingredients:
• The FDA does not require 1,4-dioxane to be listed as an ingredients on product
labels because the chemical is a contaminant produced during manufacturing.
• Without labeling , there is no other options to know for certain whether a
product contains 1,4-dioxane, making it difficult for consumers to avoid it.
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41. • Alternative processes to ethoxylation do exists but many companies don’t take
advantage of them.
• Vacume stripping can remove 1,4- dioxane from an ethoxylated product.
• Organic standard do not allow ethoxylation and some conventional companies
have agreed to alter the process the results in this contamination.
• A study by the Organic Consumer Association shows that 1,4- dioxane is non-
existent in a variety of cosmetics certified under the USFDA National Organic
program.
• Hence, a good way to avoid exposure to this chemical is to buy products that
have been certified under this program.
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42. • Reference:-
• World Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences :A Review on Perfumes
• www.slideshare.com
• Perfumes, Cosmetics and soaps 10th edition by Pouchers page no-717-
748
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