Skin care is the range of practices that support skin integrity, enhance its appearance, and relieve skin conditions. They can include nutrition, avoidance of excessive sun exposure, and appropriate use of emollients. Practices that enhance appearance include the use of cosmetics, botulinum, exfoliation, fillers, laser resurfacing, microdermabrasion, peels, and retinol therapy.
1. BIOLOGICAL ASPECTS OF SKIN COSMETICS
Prepared By- Sachin M. Chandankar
Dept of Pharmaceutics
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2. CONTENTS
• Introduction
• History
• Classification of cosmetics.
• Skin structure
• Skin related problems and their solution: dry skin, acne, pigmentation,
prickly heat , wrinkles and body odour .
• Conclusion
• References
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3. INTRODUCTION
The word ‘cosmetics’ arises from Greek word ‘kosmeticos’ which means
to adorn. Since that time any material used for beautification or
improvement of appearance is known as cosmetics.
According to regulatory definition cosmetics is article intended to be
“rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or
otherwise applied to the human body or part there of for cleaning,
beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance of
skin,” i. e., the product can not alter the structure or function of skin.
Some alter the structure and/or function of skin, thus, according to the
regulatory definition, these could be categorized as drugs.
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4. HISTORY
Egyptians were the first to recognize the health properties of cosmetics. Up to
the 19th century, there was no clear distinction between cosmetics and
Pharmaceuticals.
The separation occurred when the first modern pharmaceutical industry was
developed. Cosmeceuticals rapidly expanded in the 1980 s due to hydroxy acids
(natural fruit acids) used as exfoliants against wrinkles.
Raymond Reed ,founding member of the United States Society of Cosmetic
Chemists , coined the term ‘Cosmeceutical’ in 1961.
In 1971, Albert Klingman reactivated interest in cosmeceuticals by developing a
formula to improve the appearance of UV damaged and wrinkled skin ,using
retinoic acid.
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5. CLASSIFICATION OF COSMETICS
• Cosmetics classify according their site of
application.
1. Skin :- powders , creams, lotions etc.
2. Nail :- nail polish.
3. Teeth :-tooth powder, paste.
4. Eye :- eye creams, eye lotion etc.
5. Hair :- shampoo, hair remover .
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6. PHYSIOLOGY OF SKIN
Skin is the largest organ of the body.
It is a protective covering for the skeletal system and vital organs.
It contains many special structures including : follicles, hair, nails, sweat glands
and sebaceous glands.
Skin is very elastic and at the surface is a dead substance which is constantly being
shed and replaced by new growth.
Skin is composed of a protein known as keratin.
Hair is also composed of this substance.
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7. STRUCTURE OF SKIN
The different layers, nerves &glands of the skin are known as the
structure of the skin.
There are three layers of the skin
1.Epidermis
2.Dermis
3.Subcutaneous tissue
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8. • The epidermis
• The epidermis is the outer or top layer and is made up of five sub layers .
From the top layer they are called:
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9. • The dermis layer
This layer is under the epidermis layer and is some times called the true skin.
This layer contains the blood vessels. These divide into a network of smaller vessels
called capillaries.
The blood supplies essential materials for growth, nourishment and repair of the
skin.
Nerves found in the dermis layer are sensitive to pressure, pain, heat, touch and cold.
The nerves of the skin act as warning systems to the body and alert us to temperature
changes, degrees of pressure, whether some thing is hard or soft.
The body will react to pain, pressure or degrees of temperature.
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10. The subcutaneous layer
Hypodermis:
This is a layer of fatty tissue between the dermis & muscles & bones.
It protects you from injury & helps to keep you warm.
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12. COSMETICS FOR SKIN :
Powder and compact : important category of skin care preparation. Widely used for
body not only by women but also by men.
Main substances are use for preparation of power are titanium dioxide , zinc oxide,
magnesium stearate, zinc stearate, purified talc and calcium salt.
Skin creams and lotion : creams are those solid or semi solid emulsion which are
either o/w or w/o type.
Depending upon main ingredients and purpose of the formulation they broadly classify
as
Make up creams
Cleansing creams
Creams for winter
Cream for dry skins
Night creams
Skin protective and hand creams
All purpose creams
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13. Suntan and Anti-sunburn preparation : the purpose of suntan preparation is
to assist skin in tanning without painful effect and the purpose of sun burn
preparation is to minimize the harmful effect of sunburn.
Skin colorant : coloring skin, particularly skin of face and lips eg: lipstick
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14. Skin related problem and their solution : dry skin
Chapping and cracking are signs of extremely dry,
dehydrated skin. It looks dull, especially on the cheeks
and around the eyes.
There may be tiny expression lines on these spots and at
the comers of the mouth
Dry skin has a low level of sebum and can be prone to
sensitivity. It usually feels "tight“ and uncomfortable
after washing unless some type of moisturizer or skin
cream is applied.
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15. Causes
The oil glands do not supply enough lubrication to the skin.As a
result, the skin becomes dehydrated.
Dry skin could be due to a genetic condition.
Poor diet. Nutritional deficiencies, especially deficiencies of vitaminA
and the B vitamins, can also contribute to dry skin.
Environmental factors such as exposure to sun, wind, cold,
chemicals, or cosmetics, or excessive bathing with harsh soaps.
Conditions such as dermatitis, eczema, psoriasis, or seborrhea.
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16. How to care for dry skin
Dry skin needs plenty of thorough but gentle cleansing,
regular stimulation with massage and generous quantities of
oil and moisture.
It also needs extra careful protection.
Washing dry skin with soap and water not only removes grime but also
the natural oils protecting the skin.
A moisturizer increases the water content of the outer layers of the
skin and gives it a soft, moist look.
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17. Diet recommendations for dry skin
Eat a balanced diet that includes vegetables, fruits, grains,
seeds, and nuts.
Drink at least 2 quarts of quality water every day to keep
the skin well hydrated.
Eat foods such as garlic, onions, eggs, and asparagus that
are high in sulfur, which helps to keep the skin smooth and
youthful.
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18. ACNE
Acne is an inflammatory skin condition that occurs when oil and dead
skin cells block the pore opening, causing sebum (oil) to build up inside the
pore
Life cycle OF ACNE
Stage 1: Clogged Pores. Cells lining pores shed and mix with
excess sebum produced by sebaceous glands, forming a plug,
which leads to clogged pores.
Stage 2: Bacteria.Accumulated sebum and dead cells attract
the P
. acnes (or propionibacterium) bacteria naturally found in
skin, which feeds on oil and multiplies rapidly inside pores.
Stage 3: Inflammation. This bacterial overgrowth triggers
the natural inflammatory response causing swelling and
redness. This can ultimately lead to discoloration and
scarring
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Treatmetns
Frequent washing with soap and water.
Anti-inflammatory drugs to inhibit P
. acnes (bacteria).
Use anti-biotic, for example tetracycline, erythromycin or co-trimoxazole
etc. to curb the growth of bacteria and reduce inflammation.
Use anti-androgen (e.g. oral contraceptive pills) to regulate androgen, to
prevent excess sebum production. This method is only suitable for
women.
21. Pigmentation
Skin color is generally due to melanin
Melanin is synthesised by melanocytes within
melanosomes and transferred to keratinocytes
Human beings come in a glorious spectrum of
different colors: light,dark,plain or freckly skin;
Skin pigmentation has far –reaching social and
psychological implications.
Melanin pigmentation disorders are important for
medical and cosmetic reasons
25. Prickly heat
Commonly called heat rash or miliaria. It is caused by
obstruction to the sweat ducts. Skin care is the main
treatment.
It is heat rash characterized by itchy red spots which
develop on the chest ,under the armpits and between the
thighs in the hot countries.
Basically caused by blocked sweat glands.
Occurs when sweat cannot freely evaporate from the skin and
sweat ducts become plugged.
This inflammation can cause a red rash.
Can be prevented by wearing clothes that allow sweat to
evaporate as well as bathing regularly and drying the skin
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26. Prevention
Drink plenty of cool water or electrolyte replacement fluids even if
not thirsty. (One small cup every 15-20 .
Be able to recognize early signs & symptoms of heat induced illness
and take appropriate action to prevent serious heat disorders.
Spend as little time as possible in direct sunlight.
Take frequent breaks in cool, shaded areas.
Wear light, loose fitting, clothing.
Avoid caffeine, which can make the body lose water.
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27. Wrinkles
Lines and creases that form in skin. Some wrinkles can become deep
crevices or furrows and may be especially noticeable around your eyes,
mouth and neck.
• Causes
• Age. Less elastic and more fragile. Decreased production of
natural oils dries skin and makes it appear more wrinkled.
• Fat in the deeper layers of skin diminishes. This causes loose,
saggy skin and more-pronounced lines and crevices.
• Exposure to ultraviolet (uv) light which speeds the natural aging
process, is the primary cause of early wrinkling. Exposure to UV light
breaks down skin's connective tissue — collagen and elastin fibers,
which lie in the deeper layer of skin (dermis).
• Without the supportive connective tissue, skin loses strength and
flexibility. Skin then begins to sag and wrinkle prematurely.
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28. Smoking. Smoking can accelerate the normal aging process of skin, contributing
to wrinkles. This may be due to changes in the blood supply to skin.
• Repeated facial expressions. Facial movements and expressions, such as
squinting or smiling, lead to fine lines and wrinkles. Each time using a facial
muscle, a groove forms beneath the surface of the skin. And as skin ages, it
loses its flexibility and is no longer able to spring back in place. These
grooves then become permanent features on your face
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29. Treatments
• Topical retinoids. Derived from vitaminA, retinoids — such as tretinoin
(Renova, RetinA) and tazarotene (Avage, Tazorac) — that may reduce fine
wrinkles, splotches and skin roughness.
• Because retinoids can make skin burn more easily, need to use a broad
spectrum sunscreen and wear protective clothing daily.
• Retinoids may cause redness, dryness, itching, and a burning or tingling
sensation
• Nonprescription wrinkle creams: depends in part on the active ingredients.
Retinol, antioxidants and some peptides may result in slight to modest
improvements: results are limited and usually shortlived.
• Plump up with moisturizer.
• Don’t over do anti-aging creams.
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30. Body odour
• Smell of bacteria growing on the body, but it is actually the result of bacteria
breaking down protein into certain acids, linked to the apocrine glands.
• becomes evident if measures are not taken when a human reaches puberty.
People who are obese, those who regularly eat spicy foods, as well as
individuals with certain medical conditions, such as diabetes, are more
susceptible to having body odor.
• People who sweat too much, such as those with hyperhidrosis, may also
be susceptible to body odor. However, often the salt level of their sweat is
too high for the bacteria to break down.
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31. Prevention
Treatments
• Wash daily with warm water
• Clothing
• Avoid spicy foods
• Aluminum chloride
• Botulinum toxin:2 injections of botulinum toxin in the armpits - a
procedure that should not last more than 45 minutes. The toxin
blocks the signals from the brain to the sweat glands, resulting in
less sweating in the targeted area. One treatment can last from
two to eight months.
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Keep the armpits clean
Deodorant or antiperspirant
32. Conclusion
• Skin is the major organ of body and skin care is most important part of
cosmetics.
• For treating disorder or enhancing the appearance of skin first have to
understand the physiology and function of skin. now a day’s there is
huge competition in pharmaceutical industry for the formulation of
cosmetics for skin.
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33. REFERENCES
A Handbook of Cosmetics by B.M. MITHAL and R.N.SHAHA 1st edition,
2000, vallabh prakashan
http://www.skinpharmacies.ca/3_1_1.html
http://pharmalicensing.com/public/articles/view/1124121306_4300b
ada8254d/cosmeceuticals-cosmetics-pharmaceuticals
http://www.rivm.nl/bibliotheek/rapporten/320104001.pdf
http://www.laboratoriosilesia.com/upfiles/sibi/D0307150.pdf.
Preetha J. Padma, Dept of Pharmaceutics,K.M.C.H College of
pharmacy,International Journal of ChemTech Research, Vol.1, No.4, pp
1217-1223.
Sharma P.P, Cosmetics formulation, manufacturing and quality control
4th Edition,(2010) Vandana Publictions Delhi.
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