Special Instruction:
Fabric shrinkage must keep within ±5%
Color fastness should be 4-5 range
Pilling range 3 to 5
pH range 5.5 to 7
Fabric weight will be allowed ±02%
Fabric quality should be s per approved swatches & Lab-Dips.
Batch to batch color matching should be 4-5
Batch to batch “Shade Band Swatch” must be submitted for approval.
This presentation is my graduation internship presentation at BSL (LNJ group) Bhilwara (Rajasthan).
In this presentation I describe BSL company profile, Process significance, all steps which use for fibre to fabric in textile.
This presentation is my graduation internship presentation at BSL (LNJ group) Bhilwara (Rajasthan).
In this presentation I describe BSL company profile, Process significance, all steps which use for fibre to fabric in textile.
Color fastness properties of different reactive dyesAzmir Latif Beg
In knitwear industry, dyeing of cotton knitted fabrics is mostly done with reactive dyes, because of their good fastness properties and versatility of applications. The ease of application, wide shade range, high brilliancy and excellent wet fastness properties make the reactive dyes preferred choice for the dyeing of cellulosic fabrics. The most important characteristic of reactive dyes is the formation of covalent bonds with the substrate to be colored, i.e. the dye forms a chemical bond with cellulose. Fiber reactive dyes are the most permanent of all dye types. Unlike other dyes, it actually forms a covalent bond with the cellulose or protein molecule. Once the bond is formed, what you have is one molecule, as the dye molecule has become an actual part of the cellulose fiber molecule.
If we work with a cross section
of the color tree as CIELab space,
this space is divided by two
axes which intersect at a
grey neutral area in the centre.
“a” is the red-green axis which
is red on the positive side and
green on the negative side.
“b” is the yellow-blue axis which
is yellow on the positive end and
blue on negative end.
Lab dip is a process by which buyers supplied swatch is matched with the varying dyes percentage in the laboratory with or without help of “DATA COLOR”
Lab dip plays an important role in shade matching & and detaching the characteristics of the dyes and chemicals are to be used in the large scale of production. So this is an important task before bulk production.
Color fastness properties of different reactive dyesAzmir Latif Beg
In knitwear industry, dyeing of cotton knitted fabrics is mostly done with reactive dyes, because of their good fastness properties and versatility of applications. The ease of application, wide shade range, high brilliancy and excellent wet fastness properties make the reactive dyes preferred choice for the dyeing of cellulosic fabrics. The most important characteristic of reactive dyes is the formation of covalent bonds with the substrate to be colored, i.e. the dye forms a chemical bond with cellulose. Fiber reactive dyes are the most permanent of all dye types. Unlike other dyes, it actually forms a covalent bond with the cellulose or protein molecule. Once the bond is formed, what you have is one molecule, as the dye molecule has become an actual part of the cellulose fiber molecule.
If we work with a cross section
of the color tree as CIELab space,
this space is divided by two
axes which intersect at a
grey neutral area in the centre.
“a” is the red-green axis which
is red on the positive side and
green on the negative side.
“b” is the yellow-blue axis which
is yellow on the positive end and
blue on negative end.
Lab dip is a process by which buyers supplied swatch is matched with the varying dyes percentage in the laboratory with or without help of “DATA COLOR”
Lab dip plays an important role in shade matching & and detaching the characteristics of the dyes and chemicals are to be used in the large scale of production. So this is an important task before bulk production.
Comparative study on Garments dyeing process and Fabric dyeing process on var...IJMER
International Journal of Modern Engineering Research (IJMER) is Peer reviewed, online Journal. It serves as an international archival forum of scholarly research related to engineering and science education.
International Journal of Modern Engineering Research (IJMER) covers all the fields of engineering and science: Electrical Engineering, Mechanical Engineering, Civil Engineering, Chemical Engineering, Computer Engineering, Agricultural Engineering, Aerospace Engineering, Thermodynamics, Structural Engineering, Control Engineering, Robotics, Mechatronics, Fluid Mechanics, Nanotechnology, Simulators, Web-based Learning, Remote Laboratories, Engineering Design Methods, Education Research, Students' Satisfaction and Motivation, Global Projects, and Assessment…. And many more.
Established in the year 1985, AYM syntax is leading specialty synthetic yarn manufacturer with the world class manufacturing technology for multipolymer yarn.
It is the largest Indian manufacturer of bulk continuous filament yarn and leading multipolymer yarn dyeing house in Asia.
AYM syntax limited (formerly known as Welspun syntax limited) with its innovative approach is a pioneer in spinning, texturing, draw twisting and dyeing of polyester and nylon yarn
USIn the field of specialty synthetic yarns, AYM Syntex is one of the largest manufacturers of multipolymer Textile & Bulk Continuous Filament (BCF) yarns with offices spread across India. With the largest yarn dyeing house in Asia, AYM offers world-class quality, wide range of shades, exceptional service & breakthrough innovation.
(Over Dyeing) to dye for a second or third time with a different color. Over dyeing is such a rewarding way of rescuing an ugly or unsatisfactory colored cloth. It gives uneven look. sometimes over dyeing doesn’t mean all-time dyeing the garment which is previously dyed. Over dyeing may be normal dyeing or piece dyeing process.
The term finishing, in a broad sense it covers all the processes of making the fabric good looking, good hand feeling, luster and of course for buyer requirement. It is done after dying and before delivery to market. Various types of parameters are controlled during finishing section considering buyer requirement. The term also includes bleaching, dyeing, mercerizing etc. But normally the term is restricted to the final stage in the sequence of treatment of Knit fabrics after bleaching and dyeing. However, fabrics which are neither bleached nor dyed are also finished.
June 3, 2024 Anti-Semitism Letter Sent to MIT President Kornbluth and MIT Cor...Levi Shapiro
Letter from the Congress of the United States regarding Anti-Semitism sent June 3rd to MIT President Sally Kornbluth, MIT Corp Chair, Mark Gorenberg
Dear Dr. Kornbluth and Mr. Gorenberg,
The US House of Representatives is deeply concerned by ongoing and pervasive acts of antisemitic
harassment and intimidation at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT). Failing to act decisively to ensure a safe learning environment for all students would be a grave dereliction of your responsibilities as President of MIT and Chair of the MIT Corporation.
This Congress will not stand idly by and allow an environment hostile to Jewish students to persist. The House believes that your institution is in violation of Title VI of the Civil Rights Act, and the inability or
unwillingness to rectify this violation through action requires accountability.
Postsecondary education is a unique opportunity for students to learn and have their ideas and beliefs challenged. However, universities receiving hundreds of millions of federal funds annually have denied
students that opportunity and have been hijacked to become venues for the promotion of terrorism, antisemitic harassment and intimidation, unlawful encampments, and in some cases, assaults and riots.
The House of Representatives will not countenance the use of federal funds to indoctrinate students into hateful, antisemitic, anti-American supporters of terrorism. Investigations into campus antisemitism by the Committee on Education and the Workforce and the Committee on Ways and Means have been expanded into a Congress-wide probe across all relevant jurisdictions to address this national crisis. The undersigned Committees will conduct oversight into the use of federal funds at MIT and its learning environment under authorities granted to each Committee.
• The Committee on Education and the Workforce has been investigating your institution since December 7, 2023. The Committee has broad jurisdiction over postsecondary education, including its compliance with Title VI of the Civil Rights Act, campus safety concerns over disruptions to the learning environment, and the awarding of federal student aid under the Higher Education Act.
• The Committee on Oversight and Accountability is investigating the sources of funding and other support flowing to groups espousing pro-Hamas propaganda and engaged in antisemitic harassment and intimidation of students. The Committee on Oversight and Accountability is the principal oversight committee of the US House of Representatives and has broad authority to investigate “any matter” at “any time” under House Rule X.
• The Committee on Ways and Means has been investigating several universities since November 15, 2023, when the Committee held a hearing entitled From Ivory Towers to Dark Corners: Investigating the Nexus Between Antisemitism, Tax-Exempt Universities, and Terror Financing. The Committee followed the hearing with letters to those institutions on January 10, 202
Synthetic Fiber Construction in lab .pptxPavel ( NSTU)
Synthetic fiber production is a fascinating and complex field that blends chemistry, engineering, and environmental science. By understanding these aspects, students can gain a comprehensive view of synthetic fiber production, its impact on society and the environment, and the potential for future innovations. Synthetic fibers play a crucial role in modern society, impacting various aspects of daily life, industry, and the environment. ynthetic fibers are integral to modern life, offering a range of benefits from cost-effectiveness and versatility to innovative applications and performance characteristics. While they pose environmental challenges, ongoing research and development aim to create more sustainable and eco-friendly alternatives. Understanding the importance of synthetic fibers helps in appreciating their role in the economy, industry, and daily life, while also emphasizing the need for sustainable practices and innovation.
Biological screening of herbal drugs: Introduction and Need for
Phyto-Pharmacological Screening, New Strategies for evaluating
Natural Products, In vitro evaluation techniques for Antioxidants, Antimicrobial and Anticancer drugs. In vivo evaluation techniques
for Anti-inflammatory, Antiulcer, Anticancer, Wound healing, Antidiabetic, Hepatoprotective, Cardio protective, Diuretics and
Antifertility, Toxicity studies as per OECD guidelines
The Roman Empire A Historical Colossus.pdfkaushalkr1407
The Roman Empire, a vast and enduring power, stands as one of history's most remarkable civilizations, leaving an indelible imprint on the world. It emerged from the Roman Republic, transitioning into an imperial powerhouse under the leadership of Augustus Caesar in 27 BCE. This transformation marked the beginning of an era defined by unprecedented territorial expansion, architectural marvels, and profound cultural influence.
The empire's roots lie in the city of Rome, founded, according to legend, by Romulus in 753 BCE. Over centuries, Rome evolved from a small settlement to a formidable republic, characterized by a complex political system with elected officials and checks on power. However, internal strife, class conflicts, and military ambitions paved the way for the end of the Republic. Julius Caesar’s dictatorship and subsequent assassination in 44 BCE created a power vacuum, leading to a civil war. Octavian, later Augustus, emerged victorious, heralding the Roman Empire’s birth.
Under Augustus, the empire experienced the Pax Romana, a 200-year period of relative peace and stability. Augustus reformed the military, established efficient administrative systems, and initiated grand construction projects. The empire's borders expanded, encompassing territories from Britain to Egypt and from Spain to the Euphrates. Roman legions, renowned for their discipline and engineering prowess, secured and maintained these vast territories, building roads, fortifications, and cities that facilitated control and integration.
The Roman Empire’s society was hierarchical, with a rigid class system. At the top were the patricians, wealthy elites who held significant political power. Below them were the plebeians, free citizens with limited political influence, and the vast numbers of slaves who formed the backbone of the economy. The family unit was central, governed by the paterfamilias, the male head who held absolute authority.
Culturally, the Romans were eclectic, absorbing and adapting elements from the civilizations they encountered, particularly the Greeks. Roman art, literature, and philosophy reflected this synthesis, creating a rich cultural tapestry. Latin, the Roman language, became the lingua franca of the Western world, influencing numerous modern languages.
Roman architecture and engineering achievements were monumental. They perfected the arch, vault, and dome, constructing enduring structures like the Colosseum, Pantheon, and aqueducts. These engineering marvels not only showcased Roman ingenuity but also served practical purposes, from public entertainment to water supply.
A Strategic Approach: GenAI in EducationPeter Windle
Artificial Intelligence (AI) technologies such as Generative AI, Image Generators and Large Language Models have had a dramatic impact on teaching, learning and assessment over the past 18 months. The most immediate threat AI posed was to Academic Integrity with Higher Education Institutes (HEIs) focusing their efforts on combating the use of GenAI in assessment. Guidelines were developed for staff and students, policies put in place too. Innovative educators have forged paths in the use of Generative AI for teaching, learning and assessments leading to pockets of transformation springing up across HEIs, often with little or no top-down guidance, support or direction.
This Gasta posits a strategic approach to integrating AI into HEIs to prepare staff, students and the curriculum for an evolving world and workplace. We will highlight the advantages of working with these technologies beyond the realm of teaching, learning and assessment by considering prompt engineering skills, industry impact, curriculum changes, and the need for staff upskilling. In contrast, not engaging strategically with Generative AI poses risks, including falling behind peers, missed opportunities and failing to ensure our graduates remain employable. The rapid evolution of AI technologies necessitates a proactive and strategic approach if we are to remain relevant.
How to Make a Field invisible in Odoo 17Celine George
It is possible to hide or invisible some fields in odoo. Commonly using “invisible” attribute in the field definition to invisible the fields. This slide will show how to make a field invisible in odoo 17.
Operation “Blue Star” is the only event in the history of Independent India where the state went into war with its own people. Even after about 40 years it is not clear if it was culmination of states anger over people of the region, a political game of power or start of dictatorial chapter in the democratic setup.
The people of Punjab felt alienated from main stream due to denial of their just demands during a long democratic struggle since independence. As it happen all over the word, it led to militant struggle with great loss of lives of military, police and civilian personnel. Killing of Indira Gandhi and massacre of innocent Sikhs in Delhi and other India cities was also associated with this movement.
3. Special Instruction:
1. Fabric shrinkage must keep within ±5%
2. Color fastness should be 4-5 range
3. Pilling range 3 to 5
4. pH range 5.5 to 7
5. Fabric weight will be allowed ±02%
6. Fabric quality should be s per approved swatches & Lab-Dips.
7. Batch to batch color matching should be 4-5
8. Batch to batch “Shade Band Swatch” must be submitted for approval.
Special Instruction: For Dyeing and Finishing
4. Process Temp(▫C) pH Time min M : L ratio
Scouring - Bleaching 98 10-11 30 1:8
Enzyme Wash 55 4.5-5 30 1:8
Reactive Dyeing
(Light Shade)
60 10-11 60 1:8
Reactive Dyeing
(Dark Shade)
60 11-12 60 1:8
White Shade 98 10.5-11.5 30 1:8
Turquish color dyeing 80-90 11-12 60 1:8
Polyester dyeing 130 4-4.5 45 1:8
Production Parameters
5. (pH)
Bleaching bath pH 10.5 – 11
Neutralization or after bleaching pH 5.5 – 6.5
Bio polishing bath pH 4.5
Initial dye bath pH 5.5-6.5
After alkali addition pH 10.5-11
After dyeing pH 5.0-6.0
Fixation bath pH 4.5 – 5.5
Softener bath pH 4.0– 5.0
6. PROCESS RATIO (M:L)
Scouring 1:6
Aquachron 1:5
P.T. hot 1:8
Only wash 1:5
Acid+ Enzyme 1:5
Enzyme hot 1:5
Colour 1:6
N.S.R. Hot 1:8
Normal hot 1:6
Acid 1:5
Fixing 1:5
Softener 1:5
Water Ratio of Sample : (M:L)
7. Temperature (*c):
1 For cotton Pretreatment 98 C
2 For Cotton Biopolishing 55C
3 Cotton Dyeing 60C
4 During Turquise 80C
5 During Isothermal 60C
6 Red special 60 C
7 White dyeing 80 C
8 For Polyester Dyeing 130C
9 For Cotton soaping 98C
10 Temperature during softening & fixing 40C
11 For cotton hot wash (70-90)C
12 For cotton acid wash (50-60)C
9. Temperature:
For cotton Pretreatment : 98C
For Cotton Biopolishing : 55C
Cotton Dyeing: : (50-60)C
During Turquise :80C
During Isothermal :60C
Red special : 60 C
White dyeing : 80 C
For Polyester Dyeing :130C
For Cotton soaping : 98C
Temperature during softening & fixing : 40C
For cotton hot wash : (70-90)C
For cotton acid wash : (50-60)C
Dyeing Parameter:
10. A. pH
During peroxide bleaching & scouring 9-11
During enzyme treatment 4.5-5
Before addition of leveling agent 6-6.5
Before addition of color softener 6-6.5
Before addition of white softener 4.5-5
Softener at stenter& de-watering 5.5-6
Silicon softener 5.5-6
Reactive dyeing 10.5-12
Disperse dyeing 4.5-5.5
Dyeing Parameter:
11. C. Time
For scouring and bleaching 60-90 mins
For reactive dyeing 60-90 mins
For disperse dyeing 60-90 mins
B. Temperature
For cotton scouring 95-100˚C
For cotton bleaching 50-60˚C
For cotton hot wash 70-80˚C
For cotton acid wash 60-70˚C
For cotton dyeing 80˚C ( For hot brand)/60˚C(For cold brand)
Dyeing Parameter:
12. Amount Of Salt , Alkali & Fixation time On The Basis Of Shade%:
Shade % Salt(g/l) Alkali(g/l) Fixing time(min)
0-0.1 30 10 20
0.1-0.5 30 15 30
0.5-01 40 20 40
1-1.5 50 20 50
1.51-2 60 20 60
2-2.5 70 20 60
2.5-5 80 20 60
Above 6 100 25 70
Black shade 100 10+0.5g/l NaOH 70
13.
14. QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM
Quality is always a vital parameter for customers’ satisfaction. No matter what is the
job you perform, but your contribution is also a matter of fact. Here the top management
is concerned about that & thus build up a reasonable “Quality Control” department.
Task(s) of Q.C. Department
1. Initial check (checking of yarn quality)
2. Final check (checking of yarn properties after dyeing, finishing & hard
winding)
3. Initial check
4. Strength
5. Count (specially of melange)
6. T.P.I (specially of melange)
Final Check
1. Strength
2. Shade (both of yarn & fabric)
3. Fastness (wash & rubbing)
4. Evenness of dyeing
5. Layer check
6. Waxing check
15. 39.37 1000
.
Machine Capacity
Winch speed
GSM fabric width no of Nozzle Cycle Timt
39.37 10000
.
Machine Capacity
Cycle Time
Fabric GSM Fabric width No of Nozzle Winch speed
Re ( ) %quired Dye kg Shade FabricweightinKg
/
Re
1000
g l required Total liquor
quired Chemicals
Calculation realted to dyeing floor:
16. Allowance consider for further process in batching section
Fabric type White (%) Average (%) Black (%)
S/J 10 8 8
Rib (11) 10 8 8
Rib (22) 10 8 6
Lycra cotton 14 12 10
Lycra viscose 14 14 12
Calculation
8% = 0.92
10% = 0.90
12% = 0.88
14% = 0.86
** Extra 2% allowance is also adding for the enzyme treated fabrics and for
collar, cuff & Tape allowance will be 5-6 %.
17. There are some reasons related to arise those problem, are mentioned below:
1. More rejection of garments items due to fabric faults (lack of adequate and improper
inspection.)
2. Short quantity production due to lack of full quantity finished fabric.
3. Dyeing & finishing department unable to supply full quantity finish fabric to garment
section according to “Time and action” plan due to facing problem on batch to batch
shade variation (out of tolerance limits); fabric width; GSM; shrinkage; spirality, dyeing
faults.
4. More dyeing and finishing faults appear due to follow incorrect dyeing & finishing
recipe & procedure.
5. Knitting section fail “Time and action” plan.
6. Grey GSM problem due to improper yarn count; stitch length, machine selection.
18. Dyeing Parameter & Calculation:
The things which influence the effective coloration of textile materials with reactive
dye are called as parameters of dyeing. These include –Temperature, Time, Liquor
ratio, pH of the bath etc. A brief description about them is given below
Effects of Temperature:
Temperature of the dye bath plays vital role for dyeing. Rise in temperature has a large
effect on an increase in the diffusion rate of dyes into fabrics. Increasing of
temperature increases the rate of dyeing & of the dye migration. Higher dyeing
temperature ensures the good leveling & better penetration of dye in to the fibers. But
the temperature depends on the types of dyes adapted in the dye bath.
For Example-in case of hot brand dyestuff the dosing temperature of dye is 80ºC and
for cold brand dye temperature is kept 60ºC.
Dyeing Parameter & Calculation:
19. Effects of pH:
In the case of most popular fiber reactive dyes, a high PH actually activates the
cellulose (cot-ton) fiber, forming a cellulosed anion, which can then attack the
dye molecule, leading to a reaction that produces a strong, permanent covalent
bond. Without a high pH, the dye will not fix permanently to the cellulose fiber.
For this reason Sodium Carbonate (Na2CO3) [Some time mixed alkali such as
(NaOH + Na2CO3)] is used for no other reason than to increase the PH of the
dye reaction, so that the fiber will react with the dye. Basically during the color
addition, the PH of the bath remains at near about 6, but after adding alkali it
goes rise to pH 11.4 & this is the critical stage in which the dye molecules fix up
with the fiber.
Effects of Time:
The time for dyeing also the vital one. A specific Time adjusted with the
temperature, very much needed for better dyeing. For this reason color dosing
takes place in 20 minutes (may vary process to process) & Specific run time is
set for dyeing.
Dyeing Parameter & Calculation:
20. Effects of Material:
Liquor Ratio (M:L): Dye bath exhaustion increases with the decreasing of liquor
ratio. Dyeing at low liquor ratio decreases the amount of waste dyes &
chemicals in the effluent. Because higher the liquor ratio greater the amount of
g/l of chemicals which increases the volume of effluent. To get rid from this
problem Then Air flow Dyeing machine is getting popular in our country which
can dyeing at 1:3 Materials: Liquor ratio. But in case of Thies Jet Dyeing
machine it can possible up to 1: 5 Materials: liquor ratio.
Shrinkage:
A dimensional change resulting in a decrease in the length or width of a
specimen subjected to specified condition is known shrinkage.
Spirality:
If the Wales of the knitted fabric are not perpendicular to the course and skew
to the right or left spirality occurs in the fabric. This creates serious problem,
especially in the apparel industry.
Dyeing Parameter & Calculation:
21. Achieving finishing target of knit fabric means to achieve the finished fabric with
all the quality or parameters that is required by the customer. In case of knit
fabric, target quality refers to the shade, GSM, shrinkage, spirality, color fastness
etc.
When order is placed, at first fabric structure, GSM, shade is considered.
Depending on the parameters yarn count, m/c gauge, stitch length, machine dia,
yarn type are selected all those factors are related with target quality.
Grey fabric gsm should be lower than finished gsm. In case of knitting fabric at
least 15% weight will increase during wet processing.
Grey gsm will depend on the shade percentage, lycra %, type of yarn used and
type of finishing pequired for that particular fabric. For light shade stitch length
will be more than deep shade.
In case of spirality, it will depend on the yarn count, compactness, feeder no. of
the knitting machine.
If count (Ne) is high, compactness of the fabric is more and feeder no. of the m/c
is lower than fabric spirality and shrinkage will be less.
Finishing & Finishing Target:
22. Yarn count and m/c gauge are related to each other and if those two factors are
not matched then faults will be occurred on the fabric. For example, 20’s for
20G/18G, 30’s for 24G, 40’s/28G will yield lower spirality and shrinkage.
In case of wet processing, shade must be developed in the dyeing laboratory and
should be approved by the buyer. The recipe that is developed in lab is used by
reducing in quantity for bulk production. Because dye pick up percentage is
always high in dyeing m/c.
Shade should be kept in deeper condition before dropping of dye liquor from
dyeing m/c. because shade could be lighter during soaping. In case of finishing
process, padder pressure, temperature, fabric speed, chemicals and finishing line
should be determine by considering the finishing target because, all those
factors may affect fabric shade.
But in case of open line, stenter machine is used, which may control most of the
parameters in knit fabric. But fabric should be in open form. Thus open squeezer
is used to slitting the fabric. Then the fabric is feed on stenter where chemicals
can also be applied.
Finishing & Finishing Target:
23. When fabric is unloaded from m/c water content is about 200% in case of knit
fabric. Thus hydro-extractor, de-watering m/c are used before drying the fabric.
Otherwise heat consumption for drying process will be huge and that is not
cost effective. In this section finishing chemicals can be applied to the fabric.
Drying machine is used to evaporate water remaining in the fabric after de-
watering process and to obtain fully dried fabric. Fabric dia will reduce during
relax drying process and tube fabric is finished in this machine. Thus tubular
fabric dia should be kept more than the required finished dia in de-watering
machine. This dia will be reduced in drying machine. After that tube compactor
is finally used to achieve target quality of the fabric. gsm can be controlled up
to 10%.
Fabric shrinkage, spirality, Gsm, shade, bowing effect, slanting etc can be
controlled by stenter m/c. Maximum 20% gsm can be controlled by stenter
m/c. Fabric shade can be controlled by maintaining temp. if shade is dark then
temp.
Finishing & Finishing Target:
24. should be high and 15-20% light shade can be obtained. If shade is light in fabric
then temp. should be lowered and silicon softener is used in large quantity.Then
the fabric is finally finished with open compactor m/c.
Maximun 14% gsm of the fabric can be controlled.
If ultra-soft fabric is required by the buyer, then gsm of the fabric should be kept
at least 5% more after finishing process. Softening action is done on the back side
of the fabric and the fabric is again finished on stenter m/c.
In case of brushing, the back side of the fabric is brushed. Loops of the fleece
fabric are brushed. Fabric may feed on the m/c for 5-8 times until the target
brushing action is achieved.
Finishing & Finishing Target:
25. After all those operations, quality control process of the fabric is done in
online and off-line process. In online process gsm, shade, shade variation,
hole patta, bowing, slanting, oil mark, chemical spot etc are checked and
graded with 4 points system. In off-line QC shrinkage, spirality, gsm, color
fastness, wash fastness etc are done which are required by the buyer.
Sometimes problem can appear such as shrinkage, spirality, gsm of the fabric
which cannot be controlled by those finishing process. In this case fabric is
wetted and tumble dried to overcome those problems.
By this process, sample fabric is finished at first then required tests are done on
the fabric. Sometimes it is not possible to control shrinkage, gsm, spirality, and
other knitting faults due to knitting m/c and yarn. In this situation, the knitting
department should take necessary actions to overcome those problems.
Finishing & Finishing Target:
26. If any faults or quality problem is appeared due to dyeing or finishing the
fabric should be reprocessed, such as re-dyeing, topping, stripping are done
and finished again. But target should be to finish the fabric without re-
processing.
Above all those factors, target finished date must not exceed to finish the
fabric. If the fabric is achieve with all the required quality within the target
finished date then that will be said that we have achieved the finishing target
of knit fabric for a particular batch.
Finishing & Finishing Target:
34. Table : GSM achievement for Elastane Single Jersey (Chocolate Color) By ISO Standard.
Stenter GSM Compactor/ Actual GSM Target GSM Variation (%) Remarks
160 173 180 -3.89% Pass
160 171 180 -4.35% pass
163 176 180 -2.25% Pass
158 172 180 -4.15% pass
35. Table : Achievent of colorfastness to wash for Chocolate Color By ISO Standard.
Target grade Actual Variation Remarks
4 – 5 4 – 5 No Pass
4 – 5 4 – 5 No Pass
4 – 5 3 - 4 1 Fail
4 – 5 4 – 5 No Pass
36. Table : Achievent of colorfastness to rubbing for Chocolote Color By ISO Standard.
Target grade Actual Variation Remarks
Dry Wet Dry Wet Dry Wet
Pass4 – 5 3 to 5 4 3 0.5 No
4 – 5 3 to 5 5 4 No No Pass
4 – 5 3 to 5 4 3 0.5 No Pass
4 – 5 3 to 5 4 4 0.5 No Pass
37. Table : Achievement of shrinkage for Es. Single Jersey (Chocolate Color) By ISO Standard.
Target Actual Variation Remarks
Length Width Length Width Length Width
Pass± 5% ± 5% -5% -2% No No
± 5% ± 5% -4% -3% No No Pass
± 5% ± 5% -4.5% -2% No No Pass
± 5% ± 5% 5% -2.5% No No Pass
43. Color Fastness Wash Achievement
Sample Target
grade
Actual Variation Remarks
Elastane Single Lacoste(Aqua color) 4 - 5 4 - 5 No Pass
Elastane Single Lacoste(Chocolate color) 4 - 5 4 - 5 No Pass
Elastane Single Lacoste(Black color) 4 - 5 4 - 5 No Pass
Single Jersey(Navy color) 4 - 5 4 0.5 Pass
44. Color Fastness to Rubbing Achievement
Sample Target grade
Dry Wet
Actual
Dry
Wet
Variation
Dry
Wet
Remarks
Elastane Single
Lacoste(Aqua color)
4 – 5 3 - 5 4 – 5 3 No
No
Pass
Elastane Single
Lacoste(Chocolate color)
4 – 5 3 - 5 4 3 0.5 No Pass
Elastane Single
Lacoste(Black color)
4 – 5 3 - 5 4 3 0.5
No
Pass
Single Jersey(Navy color) 4 – 5 3 - 5 4 3 0.5 No Pass
45. Shrinkage Achievement
Sample
Target
Length Width
Actual
Length Width
Variation
Length Width
Remarks
Elastane Single Lacoste
(Aqua color)
±5% ±5% -6.3% -2% -1.3% No Pass(spec
ial case)
Elastane Single Lacoste
(Chocolate color)
±5% ±5% -5% -2% No No Pass
Elastane Single
Lacoste(Black color)
±5% ±5% -2.4% -2.9% No No Pass
Single Jersey(Navy color) ±5% ±5% -5% -3% No No Pass
46. Control parameters
1. Liquor ratio by analogue control or electromagnetic flow meter
2. Time/temperature profile
3. pH measurement, monitoring and adjustment using retractable electrode
4. Rate of change of pH
5. Conductivity
6. Specific gravity
7. Redox potential
8. Liquor flow rate
9. Rope circulation time
10.Addition time and profile for dyes, auxiliaries and chemicals
47. Control functions in continuous processing
1. Bath temperature control
2. Fabric temperature control
3. Steamer pressure
4. Water and chemical flow
5. Liquor pH control
6. Conductivity of liquor or fabric
7. Specific gravity of process liquor
8. Pad pressure and nip expression
9. Compensator pressure
10. Liquor level
11. Fabric speed
12. Chemical dosing
13. Automatic filling of baths
14. Data for steam, water, chemical and electricity consumption
15. Process visualisation/schematics
16. Automated mangle rinsing
17. Automated I R predryer heat control to speed up batch changeover
18. Control of oxidation baths
19. Control of final fabric pH
20. Rapid substitution of operating process details to cope with changes in substrate quality
being processed
48. Anticipated benefits from investment in control technology
Factor Benefit
Shade reproducibility
Levelness
Minimal damage of the substrate
Improved quality
RFT dyeing
Low liquor ratios
Water recovery and reuse Low-
temperature dyeing Controlled equipment
Savings in resources (steam, water,
effluent, power)
Consistent dye and chemical weighing and
dispensing Reliable recipe calculation
Elimination of errors
Shorter cycle times
Less downtime and less cleaning through
scheduling
Reduced manning levels
Productivity increases
Rationalised/standard products
Better stock control
Savings in dyes and chemicals
Instrumental colour measurement Improvements in productivity and
reproducibility
49. Control functions for dyeing machine
Function Requirement
Machine fill Actuated valve and level sensor
Raise to initial temperature at rapid
rate of rise
Actuated steam valve and temperature sensor
Circulate material or liquor Controlled electric motor or pump
Raise to top temperature at
controlled ramp
Flow reversal sequence
Holding time at top temperature
Controlled cooling ramp Actuated valve on cooling water
Drain Actuated valve on drain
50. Most important factors for polyester fabric dyeing
1. Substrate dyeability
2. Heat treatments above 150°C before dyeing
3. Fabric preparation
4. Dyebath pH
5. Metal-ion content of the dyebath
6. Dye concentration
51. Factors requiring control in the dyeing of sewing thread
Factors of prime importance Dyeability of substrate
Heat-setting conditions (polyester):
time, temperature and tension
Dry weight of substrate Colour value of
dyes Weight of dye
Moisture content of dye
Accuracy of dissolving or dispersing dye
Dyebath temperature
Factors of major importance Liquor-to-goods ratio
Weight of electrolyte (cotton dyeing) Weight of
auxiliary product
Time of dyeing pH of dyeing
Factors of minor importance Yarn construction (e.g. twist) Degree of bleaching
(cotton) Degree of mercerisation (cotton) Size
content
Temperature of drying before dyeing
Water quality
52. Summary of important factors in dyeing processes requiring control to
minimise variability in colour difference
Factor Variability ∆E(CMC)
Visual limit of trained colourist 0.6
Substrate variability up to 4.0
Water supply variation up to 3.0
Instability of dye solutions and dispersions 3.0 to 5.0
Variations in dye weighing of 2.5% 2.5
Quality control assessment of dyeings 0.15
Batch levelness 0.2
Reproducibility in bulk 0.2
Laboratory dyeing reproducibility 0.12
Laboratory to bulk reproducibility 0.3
53. pH range
Formaldehyde levels
Extractable heavy metals
Chlorinated phenols
Pesticides
Chlorinated Organic carriers
Biocide finishes
Flame retardant finishes
Colour fastness to Water
Colour fastness to acid & alkali perspiration
Colour fastness to wet & dry rubbing
Colour fastness to saliva
Emission of volatile chemicals
Other specific parameters as required by the customers
Ecological parameters:
Now all the Customers are asking for Ecological Parameters. Now European Buyers are
stressing this. Following are main Ecological Parameters to be considered.
Ecological parameters:
54. Process Temp. (C) P Time(min) M:L ratio
Scouring-bleaching 100 10.5 30 1:8
Enzyme wash
50
70
5
30
10
1:8
Reactive dyeing light
shade
60 10.5 60 1:6
Reactive dyeing med. to
dark shade
60-65 10.5 60 1:6
Turquise color dyeing 70-80 10.5 90 1:6
Polyester stripping 90 4.5 30-45 1:8
Cotton stripping 100 11 30 1:8
Polyester dyeing 130 4.5-5.5 60 1:8
Cotton whitening 100 30 1:6
H
55. Objectives of De-Watering M/C:
1. Remove excess Water
2. Application Of GSM
3. To control the crease mark of the fabric.
Hydro Extractor M/C:
1. To extract excess water.
Slitting M/C:
1. To open tube fabric according to specific needle mark.
Dryer M/C:
1. To dry the fabric.
2. To control the overfeed system
3. To control the vibration which increase the GSM
Function of Different Finishing M/C:
56. Compactor M/C:
1. Shrinkage control
2. Width control
Stenter M/C:
1. Heat setting
2. Width control, Finishing chemical application
3. Loop control
4. GSM control
5. Drying
6. Shrinkage control
Function of Different Finishing M/C:
57. Shrinkage Tolerance of Different Fabric:
Fabric Type Length (%) Width (%)
S/J -5.50 -5.50
Lycra S/J -6.00 -6.00
Single Lacoste -7.00 -7.00
Lycra Single Lacoste -7.00 -7.00
1X1 Rib -7.00 -7.00
Lycra 1X1 Rib -7.00 -7.00
2X2 Rib -8.00 -8.00
Lycra 2X2 Rib -8.00 -8.00
Interlock -7.00 -7.00
Terry Fleece -5.00 -5.00