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Lesson1-Shampoo.ppt
- 1. Shampoo How to formulate solutions
- 2. Lesson Topics • Shampoo Market Overview • Consumer Problems • Surfactant Science • Formulating a shampoo • Testing
- 3. Lesson Objectives • Shampoo Market Overview – Introduce the shampoo market • Consumer Problems – Explain the problems shampoo formulas are designed to fix • Surfactant Science – Discuss surfactant properties – How they are relevant to cosmetics • Formulating a solution – Dissect a shampoo formula – Explaining what ingredients are used and why • Testing – Explain how to test a shampoo
- 4. Shampoo
- 5. Shampoos • Solution cosmetic designed to clean hair and leave it a more manageable state • Solutions - one of the simplest types of cosmetic formulas
- 6. Shampoo Market • Overall Market – Hair care market estimated ~ $40 Billion worldwide – Amount of money spent in US on Shampoo/conditioner • $2.26 billion (Food, Drug, Mass market)* *Does not include Walmart
- 7. US Top Brands BRAND • Pantene – P&G • Head & Shoulders – P&G • Herbal Essences – P&G • Suave - Unilever • Garnier (Fructis) – L’Oreal • Tresemme – Alberto Culver • Matrix (Biolage) – L’Oreal • L'Oreal (Vives) – L’Oreal • Dove - Unilever • Private Label • John Frieda - Kao $ MARKET SHARE • 16 • 7.6 • 7.5 • 6.9 • 6.6 • 4.0 • 3.9 • 3.8 • 3.3 • 3.3 • 3.2 *Data from IRI covering 52 weeks ending 5/2009
- 8. US Top Brands BRAND • Suave - Unilever • Pantene – P&G • VO5 – Alberto Culver • Herbal Essences – P&G • Garnier (Fructis) – L’Oreal • Head & Shoulders – P&G • L'Oreal (Vives) – L’Oreal • Tresemme – Alberto Culver Units sold (millions) • 20.9 • 19.5 • 11.8 • 11.5 • 10.6 • 7.5 • 5.4 • 5.2 *Data from IRI covering 52 weeks ending 5/2009
- 9. Shampoo Market • Types of shampoo (marketing) – Normal – Extra body (volumizing, thickening, etc) – Moisturizing (smoothing, shine, restore) – Strengthening – Curl – 2 in 1 – Color treated – Color Enhancing – Baby (tear-free) – Natural
- 10. Shampoo Market • Specialty – Anti-dandruff – Anti-lice – Hair loss treatments • Significantly Different – Powdered shampoos – No-rinse shampoo – Co-washing
- 11. Consumer Problems • Clean hair / oil removal • Moisturize • Easier to comb • Prevent frizz • Shine • Volume • Medicated – Anti-dandruff – Anti-lice – Hair loss
- 12. Addressing the problems Problem • Clean hair / oil removal • Moisturize • Easier to comb • Prevent frizz • Shine • Volume • Medicated – Anti-dandruff – Anti-lice – Hair loss Technology • Surfactants • Conditioning agents – Anti-dandruff agents – Acaracides – Minoxidyl
- 14. Surfactants • Defined – Molecules compatible with water & oil – Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
- 15. Surfactant Molecule Hydrophilic = Lipophobic Hydrophobic = Lipophilic
- 16. Surfactant in solution • Reduces surface tension • Helps disperse oil in water (or water in oil) • Forms micelles to suspend particles
- 17. Surfactant • Typical surfactant mixture – Surfactant is mixed with oil – Lipophilic tails orient with oil – Polar heads orient with water – Micelles are created • Micelle formation • Critical Micelle Concentration
- 18. Surfactant Solutions • Depending on concentration different structures are formed • Simple shampoos are basically surfactant solutions (no oils)
- 20. Surfactant Functions • Key in Shampoos – Cleaning / Detergency – Wetting – Dispersing – Foaming – Thickening – Conditioning • Other functions – Emulsification – Solubilization – Penetration enhancement – Antimicrobial activity – Opacification
- 21. Detergency • Two types of “dirt” in hair – Solid particulate – Oily deposits • Solid particulates – From pollution, hair products – Adhere via Van der Waals forces – Anionics & non-ionics increase hydrophylicity of surface
- 22. Detergency • How surfactants remove liquids – Remove dirt & grease from surfaces – Mechanism • Surfactant orients along oil/water interface • This lifts oil off surface suspending in solution • Rinse water removes the oil micelle
- 23. Wetting • Breaks down the inherent surface tension of water • Water with surfactant can spread better on the hair Without Surfactant With Surfactant
- 24. Dispersing • Particles are suspended in the shampoo / water solution • They are removed upon rinsing
- 25. Foaming • Air is dispersed in a continuous liquid medium • Air bubbles are surrounded by thin layers of liquid films • Foam doesn’t contribute much to removal of dirt – Consumers like foam but it doesn’t really mean the product cleans better
- 26. Thickening • Viscosity of surfactant solution can be affected by – Concentration of surfactant – Salt concentration – pH
- 27. Types of Surfactants • Anionic – Negatively charged • Amphoteric (Zwitterionic) – capable of both positive & negative charges • Cationic – Positively charged • Nonionic – No charge
- 28. Anionic Surfactants • These are the primary shampoo surfactants • Alkyl Sulfates – Examples - SLS • Alkyl Ether Sulfates – Example – ALES • Alpha – Olefin Sulfonates – Examples
- 29. Anionic Surfactants • Other types – Sulfosuccinates – Alkylbenzene Sulfonates – Acyl Methyltaurates – Acyl Sarcosinates – Acyl Isethionates – Acyl Polypeptide Condensates – Monoglyceride Sulfates – Fatty Glyceryl Ether Sulfonates
- 30. Anionics • Why use them? – Excellent detergency – Relatively inexpensive – Good foaming – Highly stable • Drawbacks – Can be irritating – Drying to hair
- 31. Amphoteric Surfactants • Can have a positive or negative charge depending on the pH of the solution • Zwitterionic • Types – Cocamidopropyl Betaine – Cocoamphopropionate – Sodium Lauraminopropionate
- 32. Amphoteric Surfactants • Why use them? – Good Detergency – Less Irritating than anionics – Helps thicken system – Helps improve foam • Drawbacks – More expensive – Do not foam well enough on their own
- 33. Non Ionic Surfactants • Surfactant molecules with no charge • Types – Fatty Alkanolamides • Lauramide DEA • Cocamide DEA – Amine Oxides • Lauramine Oxide • Stearamine Oxide
- 34. Non Ionic Surfactants • Why use them? – Foam enhancer – Reduce irritation – Increase viscosity – Conditioning effect – Anti-static effect – Solubilize fragrances – Baby Shampoos • PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate • Drawbacks – Safety issues – More expensive – Do not foam well on their own
- 35. Cationics • Positively charged surfactant molecules • Types – Cetrimonium Chloride – Stearylalkonium Chloride • Not used for shampoos – Don’t clean as well – Don’t rinse as well – Don’t foam as well
- 37. Shampoo Characteristics • Aesthetics – Appearance • Clear • Pearlized – Thickness (Viscosity) • Foam – Creamy, rich to thin & loose • Harshness • Conditioning effects
- 38. Basic types of Shampoos • Normal • Volumizing • Moisturizing • 2 in 1 • Baby • Natural
- 39. Shampoo Type Comparison 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 N o r m a l E x t r a B o d y M o i s t u r i z i n g 2 i n 1 B a b y N a t u r a l Rating (10 best) Foam Quality Conditioning Harshness Shampoo Performance
- 40. Shampoo Formula • Water • Surfactant • Secondary Surfactant • Preservative • Conditioning agent • Color • Fragrance • Feature Ingredients • Specialty ingredients
- 41. Shampoo Formula • Secondary Surfactant – Modify viscosity – Improve foam – Reduce irritation • Aesthetic ingredients – Opacifying agent – Clarifying agents – Colorants
- 42. Shampoo Formula • Conditioning agents – Silicones – Cationic polymers • Preservatives • Fragrance • Feature Ingredients • Formula Adjusters – Acid – Chelating agents
- 45. Activity of Ingredients • Many raw materials are sold diluted • % Solids = Raw material – water • Eg. ALS sold as 28% solids • 32% of the supplied raw material is only ~9% solid ALS • % Active is usually synonymous with % Solids
- 47. Volumizing Shampoo • Higher level of surfactant • Volumizing polymer (optional) – Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride
- 49. Moisturizing Shampoo • More gentle detergents • Added conditioning ingredients – Polyquaternium-7 – Dimethicone Copolyol • Pearlized – (optional) – Glycol Stearate
- 51. 2 in 1 Shampoo • Added conditioning ingredients – Dimethicone – Polyquaternium-10 • Pearlized – Glycol Stearate • Stabilizing agent (optional) – Carbomer
- 53. Baby Shampoo • More mild detergent system • Compromise qualities for mildness – Foam – Detergency – Conditioning • Minimize fragrance
- 55. Natural Shampoo • Sulfate free detergent • “Gentle” preservatives – No Parabens – No DMDM Hydantoin • Natural extract ingredients • Synthetic fragrance free?
- 56. Making the batch
- 57. Equipment • Beakers • Mixers • Thermometer • Stand • Hot plate • Scale • Weigh boats • Plastic wrap
- 59. Shampoo Batching tips • Cover batch with plastic wrap • Record time, temp, changes • Pre-weigh ingredients • Weigh container prior to making batch – Compensate for water loss • Take specification readings at the end – Adjust as needed –
- 60. Shampoo testing • QA/QC Tests • Performance Tests
- 61. Shampoo testing • QA/QC Tests • Specifications – Viscosity – pH – Appearance – Odor
- 62. Shampoo testing • Use Tests – Try product yourself – Panel testing
- 63. Shampoo testing • Tress testing – Combing – Feel / Softness – Shine
- 64. Shampoo testing • Foam testing – Blender – Shake test
- 65. Shampoo testing • Safety testing – Patch testing – Irritation tests
- 67. Shampoo Summary • Shampoo Market Overview – Big compared to other cosmetics • Consumer Problems – Cleansing, conditioning primary problems • Surfactant Science – Makes oil & water more compatible – Responsible for cleaning hair • Formulating shampoos – 6 types of shampoos • Testing – Use tests, lab tests, and QC tests
- 68. Shampoos