Advance textile processing

SEMINAR ON
BSL LTD.(PROCESSING DIVISION)
Address: Submitted By:
Post Box No.16-17, Altaf Mansuri
Mandpam, Kanhiya Kumawat
BHILWARA-311001 Lalit Birwa
Om Prakash Sharma
Rajesh Kumawat
Vikas Pareek

INTRODUCTION
 BSL LTD, a 1700 Crore LNJ BHILWARA GROUP company, is today a
leading manufacturer of fashion fabric and wool worsted yarn in India.
Manufacturing a diverse range of polyester/ viscose blended fabrics,
wool and blended fabrics, premium light weight fabric and terrier wool
fabric.BSL produces over 12 million meters of fabric every year. The
company also produces a premium range of worsted suiting's, including
those in Kashmiri mohair and angora and camel hair blends. Within a
span of 33 years BSL has become a multimillion dollar company and
has put Bhilwara on the international map of premium suiting, while its
commitment to quality and exceptional product innovation which has
enabled BSL to earn the coveted wool mark and ISO – 9002 quality
accolades.

DEPARTMENTS OF BSL
 Quality Control(R&D): Raw materials such as fibers, yarns, dyes and
chemicals are thoroughly tested before they enter the manufacturing process.
 Processing & Dyeing: Pre-treatments like scouring,bleaching &
Dyeing of fabric is carried out in this departments.
 Finishing: Chemical and machenical finishes depend upon fabric
quality is done.
 Yarn/Fibre/Tops/Silk Dyeing: Various type of blended
yarns,fibres,Wool tops dyed on HTHP machines.

QUALITY CONTROL(R&D)
 Incoming Material Test
 Dyes are evaluated for strength, sublimation, dispersion, washing & light
fastness properties.
 In case of chemicals & auxiliaries; physical state purity, specific gravity,
amine value, cloud point, padding and boiling point are evaluated.
 The fibers (wool, polyester, viscose tops & special fiber) are tested for
fiber fineness micron (fiber diameter), fiber bundle strength, moisture
regain percentage, finish percentage (as per WTO standards and
specifications).
 At the lab the micron is checked on the Wira Fiber Fineness Meter from
UK, certified by the Interwoollab, Brussels.
 Polyester viscose and cotton yarns are tested for - Count and several
other tests.
 Only after the material fulfills the standard specifications, is it allowed to
proceed to the production line

FABRIC TEASTING
 In this part the fabric is tested at two stages one is before processing and after processing.
 In the before processing fabric is tested for various quantities:
 Count
 Epi&ppi
 Std. GSM
 Residual shrinkage
 Blend percent
 In the after process stage these quantities are tested:
 Tensile
 strength
 Washing fastness
 Rubbing fastness
 Sublimation fastness
 Crease recovery angle
 Seam slippage
 Gram per square meter
 Water Proofness Testing
 Pilling testing
 F. R. Testing( Fire Retardant

SHADE DEVELOPMENT
• In this part of testing various shades are developed by mixing the
required dyes in various proportions and are checked against the
required shade.
 Polyester dyeing (disperse dyes): -
 Temp: - 135 °c
 Ammonium sulphate: - 1 gpl
 pH: - 4
 Leveling agent: - DFT
 Time: - 1 hr
 Acrylic dyeing: -
 Temp: - 120°c
 Common salt
 Leveling agent: - DFT
 Time: -1 hr

 Vat dyeing: -
 Caustic : - 100 gpl
 Hydro: -40 gpl
 Time: -50 min
 Temp : - 70°c

 Sulphur dyeing: -
 Catalyst sodium sulphide: -30 gpl
 Soda: -5 gpl
 Temp: - at boil
 Time: - 1 hr

FABRIC PROCESSING
 For this department the raw material is woven grey fabric. In this department the fabric is processed by
various methods. The main processes which are used in BPL INDUSTRIES are the following:-
Scouring
 
 Drying
 
 Weight Reduction (Optional)
 
 Heat Setting
 
 Dyeing
 
 Singeing
 
 Chemical Finishing
 
 Mechanical Finishing

 The dyeing operation is done by two methods in BPL INDUSTRIES.
 1. Fiber Dyeing
 2. Piece Dyeing
 1. Fiber Dyed Fabric:
 In this type of fabric fibre or yarn is dyed before weaving process or in other words fabric is
already dyed. So only pre-treatment is given to F/D fabric. Therefore no. of machines as well as
cost of processing is less.
 The typical sequence of processes given to fiber dyed fabric is as following:
 Stitching
 
 Singeing
 [Gas Singeing Machine]
 
 Scouring
 [Jumbo Jigger, Relax Scouring Machine]
 
 Drying
 
 Heat Setting
 [Stenter]
 
 [Stenter]
 {OD,KD,0/0,Super finish}


 2. Piece Dyed Fabric:
 This class of grey have either a tint of light colour or may be white. So P/D fabric involves
dyeing in the processing sequence.
 Scouring
 
 Drying
 
 Heat Setting
 
 Jet Dyeing
 
 Drying And Stitching
 
 Singeing
 
 Jigger Dyeing
 
 Drying
 

 Machines used in fabric processing :
 JIGGER
 Function: -this machine is used for the purpose of scouring and dyeing.
 Machine particulars: -
 No of machines:17
 Make of machine:carlico
 Water capacity of machine:300 lts
 Fabric capacity of machine:400 to 450 m
 JUMBO JIGGER
 All the features of this machine are same as that of the jigger. The only difference between
them is of capacity of the machine. Jumbo jigger is bigger in size thus have more capacity.
 No of machine:3
 Fabric capacity of machine: 1500 m
 Features of machine: -
There are two drawing roller to draw the fabric. These rollers are driven. The draw rollers
can rotate in the both clockwise & Anti clockwise direction. Liquor is taken in the jigger.
Heating of liquor is done by steam coils.
Cloth from one roll unwound through the guide rollers gets wound on the other roll. When the
first roll is completely unwound the motion reverses automatically & thus cloth passes
through solution in the trough twice.

 JET DYEING
 U SHAPE JET DYEING: –
 Machine particulars: –
 No of machines:-4
 Make of machine: star engineering pvt. Ltd.
 Capicity:700-800mt.
HORIZONTAL JET DYEING MACHINE
 Machine particulars: –
 No of machines:3
 Make of machine: Star engineering pvt. Ltd.
 Capicity:400 -600mt.
 Features:In this machine both the fabric and the liquor are in motion.The
machine is in a u shape tube like structure with one end enclosed and other end
is provided with a door. At the door there is a reel which is driven by the p.s
motor, gives required tension to the fabric. Fabric is circulated in the machine in
rope form. Fabric is fed in to the machine and a loop is formed.The fabric is
circulated with the pressure of jet from the nozzle and reel. Machine consists of
a colour tank, in which the required chemicals & dyes are poured and from
which it is transferred to the nozzle.
 The liquor is circulated continuously through the filter (to remove the fibers) and
heating chamber. Heating is done by steam.
 There is a platter situated at the top of the enclosed end which form platting of
fabric in the machine.

.
•Addition of water
.
•Loading
.
•Addition of chemicals
•pH check
•Addition of dye after 5 min
•Temp rise up to 130°c
•Holding time 30-45 min
•Cooling up to 80°c at rate of 5°c/min
• Drain off
•Washing

 Recipe and machine parameters:-
Parameters
M:L Ratio Horizontal-1:8
Verticle-1:3
Speed 500mt/min
Cooling up to 80°C
Cooling rate 5°C/min
Holding time 10 min.
Ph 4-5
Dyeing temp. 130°c
Dyeing time 90-120 min.
Leveling agent DHF
Crease removal J-acid

WEIGHT REDUCTION
 No of machines: 3
 Make of the machine:Anjani industries pvt. Ltd.
 Capacity :1000mt.
Features: -
This machine is based on the high pressure and temperature
principle. The machine consists of four compartments, each
compartment having respective nozzle with the capacity of
250mts each.
One end of the fabric is threaded through the guides and then
passed through the nozzle from which it comes to the container
situates in front. This end of the fabric is stitched with the other
and the loop is made which rotates in the machine.
Container is filled with the respective solution. Machine is
provided with one more tank i.e. caustic storage tank. After
complete process the caustic in the container is pumped to the
tank and reused with the next lot.The temp in the machine is
maintained by the steam heating system.

Parameters
capacity 250mt each nozzle
water 1600lts
Temp. 95°c
Time 90min.
Caustic soda 10-15 kg
Roto cat 3kg
Acetic acid 17%

• water filling
• Loading of fabric
• Addition of chemical(castic+rotocat)
• Temp 95°c
• Holding at 95°c for 90min
hi • Cooling up to 70°c in 30 min
• Caustic recovery
• Addition of new water
• Hot wash at 90°c
• Running water wash
• Cooling up to 55°c
• Removal of solution
• Neutralise with 17% acetic acid for 15 min
• Uploading of fabric

 Open Width Scouring Range:
 Machine particulars:
 Machine Maker: Harish Perfotex
 Model: OWRSC-4
 No. of Machine:2
Open width Washing ranges are tailor-made and custom built to individual
customer needs and are suitable for treating all types and weights of woven and
knit fabrics i.e. cotton, cellulose rayon, viscose, synthetics and their blends
it is an 5 chamber machine and also consist a cylindrical drying range so its
called continuous scouring machine.

 Wetting Trough: In this the fabric is kept in a cold water bath along with the
following chemicals.
Water-------------------------------- 2000ltr
Caustic------------------------------ 1.5gpl
Swello SK (Swelling Agent)---- 1 gpl
Wettol Liquid------------------------0.4gpl
Rapid Scour-------------------------0.4gpl These are
basically stain removing agents.
 Hot Wash: Temperature------ ---------------
---70 degrees
 Relaxing Zone
 Here the fabric is allowed to mix and react with all the chemicals so that
proper scouring takes place.
 Cold Wash & Acid Neutralization
Temp –room temp.

 Singeing Machine:
 Machine Particulars:
 No of machines: - 2
 Calico:- (Bombay)
 Speed of Calico:- 70-80 m/min.
 Osthoff – senge:-(Germany)
 Speed of machine: - Osthoffsenge – 100 – 150 m/min
 Features:-
 The machine which is used for the singeing is gas singeing machine.
 The function of this machine is to burn the fibers with the liquid petroleum
gas in order to increase the lusture of the fabric and giving it smooth look.
 To minimize the pilling on the fabric surface.

 Settings of machine: -
 Burner settings:
 The angular flame is used for finer fabrics
 Straight flame without roller contact is used for the normal fabrics
 Straight flame with roller contact is used for severe singeing
 Speed of cloth:Depends upon the wt/mt2 of fabric. It can be
changed with the help of different gears.

 Height of flame: It can be changed by changing the pressure of
gas of the burner.

 Width of burner:It is changed when the width of cloth is more or
less than the width of the burner.

 Cylindrical Drying Machine:-
 Machine Particulars:-
 Number of machines: 1
 Make of machines:-Shakti Textile Engineers Pvt. Ltd.
 Features: -The scoured fabric is in wet condition and has to be dried as the wet
fabric decreases the efficiency of the stenter. And thus decreasing the efficiency
of the process house as it depends of the efficiency of the stenter.
parameters
Spd of fabric 20 -40mt/min
Temp. of
machine
150 degree
Steam pressure 1-2kg/sq cm
Drying efficiency Up to 100%
Mangle pressure 2-3kg/sq cm

FINISHING
 Finishing is the process of giving value to the fabric. The grade, cost and durability of the
fabric depends on the finishing of the fabric. If the customer want some special properties
to the fabric, then only all the finishes are given to the fabric. The extent and quality of the
finishing process gives the respective value to the cloth.
 The finishing process gives following characters to the finished fabric
 Crease resistance
 Dimensional stability
 Lusture
 Smoothness
 Softness
 There are no of machines which are used for the finishing purpose. These machines give
different finishing to the fabric to the different extents. These machines are as follows –
 Kier Decatising Machine
 Calendaring
 Shearing
 Super Finish
 Zero - Zero Finish
 Stenter machine

STENTER MACHINE
 No of machines – 5 4 machines of 6 chamber & 1 machines of 8 chamber.
 Make of machines –
 Yamuna Machine Works Pvt. Ltd.
 Harish Enterprises Pvt. Ltd.
 Production of machine –13000 -28000 mts per shift depending on machine.
 Features of machine: The fabric undergoes many processes at a very high
temp about 130 to 140. And at this temp polyester being a polymer can shrink or
stretch depending on condition. But this change in dimension is not good for
final product as it changes many qualities of the fabric.
 Thus it is always required to give dimensional stability to the fabric. The process
of giving dimensional stability to the fabric is known as heat setting.
 Function of this machine is to heat the fabric at a temp of about 200 in stretched
form in order to give dimensional stability the fabric. This machine also gives
primary finishing to the fabric. This machine regulates the width of the fabric as
per the requirement. It increases the pilling resistance of the fabric.

 Working :- This machine consists of no. of parts of machine. The first part is of
finishing process. This part is used when chemical finish to the fabric is
required.
 This consists of a chemical tank which contain finishing chemical. Either one or
two dip is given in this chemical as per the requirement of the fabric. Then it
provided with the mangle roller to squeeze out excess chemical from the fabric.
 Second part of this machine is heating part. Before this the fabric is pined on the
pin clips to stretch the fabric to required width. This is done with the help of
pinion roller and pressure brush. Then comes heating chamber, in which heating
is done with the help of oil heating system.
 Third part of this machine is cooling part and in this cooling of hot fabric is done
by blowing cold air on the fabric.

 KIER DECATISING MACHINE:-
 No of machine: - 2
 Make of machine: - Corino machine ALBA
 Features: -
 The fabric after finishing on open decatising machine is finished on the kier
decatising machine. In KD machine the permanent finishing effects are
obtained. The finish produces a full, soft-hand or “body” to the fabric as well as
imparts lusture and improved feel to the fabric.
 This is a fully automatic machine and don’t need any manual work at all. In this
machine the decatising or steaming is done in close chamber i.e. kier so its
known as the close decatising machine
 In multiprogramming KD three operations are performed
 LOADING
 UNLOADING AND
 KIERING

 Loading is the process of winding of fabric to be finished with the wrapper cloth
on the beam. This is also known as batching.
 The unwinding of fabric from the beam and the transfer of the wrapper cloth on
the batching beam is known as the unloading.
 The process of transferring the loaded beam to the kier and passing of steam at
high pressure through perforations and passing the air blow through it is known
as kiering

Parameters
Beam Capacity 600mt.
Beam Diameter 98-103cm. at104cm.
Batching automatic
stop.
Decatising time 15-20min.
Speed 75mt./min.
[loading &
unloading]
Kier pressure 3-4 kg/sq cm
Kier temp. 1090C

 SHEARING
 No of machine: 1
 Make of machine: SELLERS
 Production: 1200 m / hr
 Speed: 20 m/min
 Features: -Shearing is the process of cutting the projecting threads or
fibers in order to give smoother and attractive look to the fabric. This is
done generally in case of woolen fabric as there much pilling in the
woolen fabric than any other fabric.
This also removes other impurity such as metallic particles and other
surface impurities from the fabric. It removes the surface irregularities
from the fabric.
 The fabric comes from the trolley and gets accumulated in the
accumulator to give the uniform and continuous supply of the fabric to
the machine, than it passes to the tension rollers then to guiders to
ensure optimum tension and full width of the fabric facing the blades.
 Then the fabric passes to the brushing rollers which erect the fibers
from the surface of the fabric to ensure the complete cutting of the fibers.
 There are rotating cylinders having spiral blades on them. The fabric
comes in contact with the blades and the knots and loose fibers are
cut.Thereare blowers which are engaged in sucking the cut fibers and
yarn and avoid the contamination of machine.

 CALENDERING
 No. of machine: 2
 Production: 7000 m/ shift
 Temp: - 60 – 80
 Pressure range: - for p/v: 60 kg/ sq. cm & for p/w: 40 – 50 kg/ sq.cm.
 Features: -
 Calendaring is the process of passing the fabric between two heated
rollers at a high pressure and temp to break the fiber rigidity and to give
softness to the fabric Machine consists of three different roller. One is
made of Teflon, other of steel and last one is made of cotton. All the
three rollers are steam heated. Here steel roller is connected to the
motor and other rollers are driven by the contact of steel roller.
 The cloth coming from the trolley passes through various tension and
guide rollers to ensure that full width of the fabric is given to the three
rollers.The steel roller has a special polish on the surface, which gives
the fabric shine when it comes in contact with this at a high temp.
 Fabric passes between the cotton and steel roller at high pressure and
temp, and then it passes between steel and Teflon roller at same
conditions. This breaks the rigidity of the fabric and thus gives the
softness to the fabric.

 ZERO ZERO FINISH OR SANFORAISING
 No. of machines: - 1
 Make of machine: - DHALL ZERO - ZERO SHRINKAGE RANGE
 Production: - 8000 – 9000 m/ shift
 Features: -
 It is one of the final finishes given to the fabric. it is termed as zero - zero finish
as it brings down the harshness of the fabric to minimum level.
 As this is the final finishes it gives the final shrinkage to the fabric as required.
Generally final width of the fabric is 152 – 154 cm.
 Function: -
 To give final mechanical finish to the fabric after OD.
 To remove wrapper markings created during OD.
 To remove wrinkle from from fabric.
 To give final shrinkage to the fabric.

 Then the fabric goes to the steel roller which is at high temp. heated by the
steam at high pressure. Just below the steel roll there is a rubber felt is present
which comes with the fabric on the steel roll. This motion softens the fabric.
Opposite motion of the felt and roller is culprit behind the removal of harshness.
 The felt gets heated by the steel roller and thus its cooled by the water.
After this the fabric can be given again the Decatising finish if required. This is
optional and can be skipped by changing the setting of the machine.

TOPS/YARN/FIBRE/SILK PROCESSING
 WOOL:-Process secquence of wool dyeing On HTHP machine:- wool
is dyed in form of top wt. depends upon micron approximatly 8-10kgs tops used.
Loading
Add water
Chemical
add+dye
Temp (94-98°c)
Holding
time(20-50
min)
Cooling (98-
70°c)
Soaping at
60°c for 20 min
Finish

 Recipe For Dyeing
Parameters
Dye used Metal complex dye
Dyeing starts at 50°c
Temp. gradient 1°c/min(94 to 98°c) ,2°c/min up to
94°c
Holding time Acc. To shade%(20,30,50)min.
PH 4-5 by Acetic acid (98%)
Levelling agent FBSE(.5%) on wt. of material
Water softner Meta soft CL
Soaping Tenapol at 60°c for 20 min.
Finishing Acetic acid(17%) & Antistatic
agent

 POLYESTER: polyester can be dyed in top,fibre and yarn form on HTHP
machine.
 Process sequence of poly. On HTHP machine.
Loading
Add water
Chemical
add+dye
Running for 10 min
at 70°c
Add dye
at 135°c
Holding the
material(50 min
Cooled wash
R C Treatment Drain
Neutralization
Finish

 Recipe For Dyeing
Parameters
Dye used Disperse dye
Temp. gradient 1.8°c/min (70°c) 2.5°c/min(135°c)
Time 3 hrs for dark shade&2 hrs for light
shade
Pressure 3.5kg/cm2
Levelling agent FBSE(.5%)
Acetic acid(98%) 4-5 Ph
Water softner Meta soft CL
Finish Sanfotex F (antistatic agent)
R C Treatment Caustic&Hydro at 80°c for 30 min

 SILK dyeing :- silk is dyed in hank form on hank dyeing machine.
 No. of machine:- 4
 Capacity of m/c:-2 ½ kg, 10 kg, 20 kg& 30 kg.
 Make of machine:- a) Swastic India
 b) Mezzera Italy
 Process Sequence
.
• Degummed+Bleached
• Hot wash
• Cold wash
• Dyeing at 95°c
• Holding the sample(20 min)
• Cold wash
• Checking the sample
• Finishing

 Recipe
 Degumming:- Bleaching:-
 Dyeing:-
Balmul MS (soap) 10 gpl
Sh 500 4 gpl
Temp. 95-98°c
Time 30 min
PH 8-9
Hydrogen proxide 10 gpl
HPZ Proxide killer
Temp. 92-95°c
Time. 30min
PH 8-9
Dye Acid dye
Dye level ES(Levelling
agent)
2 gpl
PH 4-5 by Acetic acid(98%)
3gpl
Time 2 hrs
Temp 90-92°c

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