A presentation about anti-aging creams giving a brief of aging, anti-aging cosmetics, some general and some modern anti-aging agents and their mechanism of action, some detailed info of marketed formulations

1. A Study to Analyze the Mechanism of Action of some commonly used Anti-Ageing Agents in
the Marketed Formulations
Guide
Mr. DEBAPRASAD GHOSH
Assistant Professor
KIET School of Pharmacy
Dr. A. P. J. ABDUL KALAM TECHINICAL UNIVERSITY
LUCKNOW, UTTAR PRADESH
BACHELOR OF PHARMACY
In
Cosmetic Science Elective (BP809ET)
by
Mr. Ruchin Sharma (University Roll No.- 1819950902)
Mr. Kunwar Shreshtha (University Roll No.- 1719950043)
Mr. Kamal Shrivastava (University Roll No.- 1719950037)
( B.Pharm Final Year )
To the
FACULTY OF PHARMACY
A Project Report Submitted
In Partial Fulfilment of the Requirements For the Degree of

2. • INTRODUCTION
• SCIENCE OF AGEING
• ANTI-AGEING AGENTS
• LITERATURE REVIEW
• MARKETED FORMULATIONS
• DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSION
• REFERENCES

3. Creams are defined a semisolid dosage form containing one or
more drug substances dissolved or dispersed in a suitable base.
Creams are semisolid emulsions of oil and water.
They are of a softer consistency and lighter body than true
ointment.
Semisolids are of two type O/W and W/O.

4. Skin aging is characterized by a progressive deterioration of the skin’s
functional properties, linked to alterations of dermal connective tissue
due to the changes at the cell, gene and protein levels.
Skin aging can be divided into two basic processes: intrinsic aging and
photoaging.
Intrinsic aging is natural and mainly due to the passage of time
[influence of genetic factors, oxidative stress, cellular senescence.} and
its consequences.
Photoaging is mainly linked with the detrimental effects of solar
exposure on the skin, although pollution, diet and smoking are also
contributing factors.

5. o Skin becomes rougher.
o Skin develops lesions such as benign tumors.
o Skin becomes slack, losses elastic tissue (elastin) in the skin with age causes
the skin to hang loosely.
o Skin becomes more transparent. This is caused by thinning of the epidermis
(surface layer of the skin)
o Skin becomes more fragile. This is caused by a flattening of the area where
the epidermis and dermis (layer of skin under the epidermis) come together.
o Skin becomes more easily bruised. This is due to thinner blood vessel walls.

6. https://www.skinmd.ph/blog-content/2017/12/8/the-anatomy-of-an-aging-face

7. Anti-aging cosmetics is a branch of cosmetics which deal with the removal of
aging and wrinkle effect on human skin.
Anti-aging cosmetics are predominantly moisturizer based cosmeceutical skin
care product marketed with the promise of making the consumer look younger by
reducing, masking or preventing signs of skin aging.
Anti-aging is emerging class of cosmetics which anti-aging ingredients also helps
to reduce the fine lines and increasing the moisture level of the skin.
These signs are laxity (sagging), rhytids (wrinkles), and photoaging which
includes erythema (redness), dyspigmentation (brown discoloration), solar
elastosis (yellowing), keratoses (abnormal growths) and poor texture.

8. https://www.bellakart.com/blog/top-10-anti-aging-night-cream-brands-in-india/

9.  Retinol : A derivative of vitamin A (A1) smoothing wrinkles, unclogging pores,
lightening superficial brown spots, and improving the texture of the skin. Apply at
night as in direct sunlight it can cause skin sensitivity.
 Niacinamide : Dark spots resulting from acne scars, sun damage, or old age, lighten
with niacinamide, a vitamin-B3 derivative that prevents melanin, or pigmentation,
from rising to the surface.
 Hyaluronic Acid : A humectant, meaning that it draws out water from the air and
dermis (the skin that lies below the surface).
 Alpha Hydroxy Acids : Exfoliators that gently dissolve the "glue" that holds surface
skin cells together, letting the dead ones slough away to reveal youthful looking skin.

10. o L-ascorbic acid : Vit C important antioxidant that helps build
collagen, reduce inflammation, and promote elasticity to plump up
skin.
o Avobenzone : Broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher.
Avobenzone is a common chemical ingredient in sunscreen that
blocks UVA rays. It’s often paired with benzophenone-3 or
oxybenzone to shield against UVB rays
o Antioxidants : Prevent and repair damage to your body tissue by
encouraging cell growth. The most popular antioxidants include
vitamins C and E, pomegranate, green tea, and coffeeberry extracts.

11. https://www.amazon.com/Tona-Derm-Anti-Aging-Cream/dp/B00H9AJ3CK

12.  APPA (Aminopropyl Dihydrogen Phosphate ): Enhances the
proliferation of the human fibroblasts and increases the collagen
synthesis.
 Toco-APPA (Aminopropyl Tocopheryl Phosphate ): Compound of
Vitamin E and 3-APPA. this material is well known to be a booster
of collagen synthesis that shows great efficacy in wrinkle
treatment.
 MPA (Aminopropyl Methylenedioxyphenyl Phosphate): This
menthol derivative can be easily decomposed inside of the human
body by the enzyme, and exhibits both the physiological activities
of menthol and the 3-aminopropylphosphoric acid.
 Menthol : Has local anesthetic and counterirritant qualities.

13.  Phytsterols esters : It retains water on the surface, prevents the
inflammation and improves the metabolism of the skin.
-It is effective for the anti- aging and treatment of Erythema, which
is caused by the sun light exposure.
 Excoecaria Leaf Extract (Gallic Acid) : A kind of Tannins.
-As a strong antioxidant, Gallic acid removes the active oxygen from
the body and melanin generated by UV. It also detoxifies harmful
heavy metals and removes nicotine deposited in the body.
 Genestein : Isoflavone Aglycone from Sophora japonica.
- Collagen synthesis & Anti-wrinkle
- Whitening & Curing of UV damage
- Anti-acne & Prevention against Hair loss (by 5α-Reductase
inhibition)
 8-Gingerol : An antioxidant, anti-aging agent and anti-inflammatory
agent.

14. S. No. Author Work Done
1 Buraczewska I., et.al, Facial anti-
wrinkle cream: influence of product
presentation on effectiveness: a
randomised and controlled study,
2007
A high-priced luxurious anti-wrinkle cream dispensed in its original
packaging and in a neutral jar, were compared with the effects from a
regular moisturizing face cream in a luxurious jar. Measurement of skin
surface relief by optical profilometry. The present study conducted as a
formal trial could not verify a claim of anti-wrinkle effect of a known
prestigious product. Surprisingly, there was no systematic effect on
subjective and objective cosmetic parameters of the luxury packaging,
except a better compliance.
2 Ganceviciene R., et.al, Skin anti-
aging strategies, 2012
Review the most important anti-aging strategies that dermatologists have
nowadays in hand, including preventive measurements, cosmetological
strategies, topical and systemic therapeutic agents and invasive procedures.
Discussed about a number of components that act as anti-wrinkle agents
along with their mechanism of action, including, vitamins, retinols,
polypeptides, etc. in one of the section.

15. 3 Pai V.V., et.al, Topical Peptides as
Cosmeceuticals, 2017
Discussed about the topical peptides as
cosmeceuticals means. Contains a promising list of
topical peptides acting as anti-wrinkle agents. Also
discussed different types of peptides and their
mechanism of action which prove them as a better
means of treating dermatological conditions more
promisingly.
4 Sondh D., et.al, Anti- wrinkle Agents- A way of
regaining beauty, 2017
The concise details about the leading anti-wrinkle
agents, their mechanism of action, uses and adverse
reactions on the body. Hyaluronic acid and botulinum
neuro-toxins are discussed in detail along with cost
considerations. The future trends in the advancement
of dermatological aesthetics and anti-wrinkles agents
have also been included.
5 Zasada M., et.al, Retinoids: active molecules
influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic
and dermatological treatments, 2019
The objective of this study is to introduce and
compare different types of retinoid uses in cosmetic
and dermatological treatments. Moreover, this paper
should address the issue of the cellular activity of
retinoids. Retinol has the ability to effectively
penetrate the stratum corneum. The number of
scientific reports on the activity of retinoids was the
reason for this study.

16. Ingredient Function
Isohexadecane Iso-paraffin
emmolient
Retinol Antioxidant, Vit. A
Ascorbic Acid Protective, Vitamin C
Glycerin Humectant
Dimethicone Antifoaming Agent
Butylene Glycol Conditioning
BHT Preservative
Polyethylene Abrasive, Film
forming
Chlorphenesin Treat muscle pain
Sodium Hydroxide pH regulation,
Detergent
Phenoxyethanol Antibacterial,

17. Ingredients Function
Retinyl Linoleate Anti-ageing
Dimethicone Treat dry, rough, scaly, itchy skin
Glycerine Moisturizing Agent
Palmitic Acid Emollient. Skin protection
Glyceryl Stearate Stabilization, se evaporation
Hydrogenated
Polyisobutene
Skin Conditioning
Aluminium Hydroxide Abrasive, Absorbent, Anticaking
Caprylyl Glycol Humectant
Capryloyl Salicylic Acid Improves skin tone, wrinkles, clogged
pores
Beeswax Waterproofing, Lubricant, shiny look
Carnauba Wax Raise melting point
Disodium EDTA Chelating Agent
Phenoxyethanol Antibacterial
Tocopherol Antioxidants
Shorea Robusta seed
butter
Anti-inflammation

18. Ingredient Functions
Retinyl Propionate Anti-ageing
Palmitoyl
Pentapeptide-4
Anti-ageing
Palmitoyl Dipeptide-7 Anti-ageing
Carnosine Anti-ageing
Niacinamide Multi tasking
vitamin
Ingredients Function
Dimethcone Moisturizer
Isohexadecane Prevent moisture loss,
Cleanser
Tocopheryl Acetate Vitamin E,
Antioxidant
Penthenol Moisturizer

19. Not only one, ageing skin is a result of many factors’s contribution. The
anti ageing cream is a formulation that reduce possible signs of ageing
skin. There are some general anti-ageing agents, derived from natural
sources and also synthesized, that are used for the treatment.
Considering those general agents, many modern anti-ageing agents have
also been started using for therapy. Some books, literature and review
articles have also been studied that explain the mechanism of action of
these agents and give a brief knowledge about comparative studies of
some marketed formulations.

20.  Cosmetics – Formulations, Manufacturing and Quality Control, P.P. Sharma, 4th Edition, Vandana
Publications Pvt. Ltd., Delhi.
 Text book of cosmetology by Sanju Nanda & Roop K. Khar, Tata Publishers.
 Lodén, M., Buraczewska, I., & Halvarsson, K. (2007). Facial anti-wrinkle cream: influence of product
presentation on effectiveness: a randomized and controlled study. Skin research and technology :
official journal of International Society for Bioengineering and the Skin (ISBS) [and] International Society
for Digital Imaging of Skin (ISDIS) [and] International Society for Skin Imaging (ISSI), 13(2), 189–194.
 Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-
aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308–319.
 Pai, V. V., Bhandari, P., & Shukla, P. (2017). Topical peptides as cosmeceuticals. Indian journal of
dermatology, venereology and leprology, 83(1), 9–18.
 Sondh D., Parle A., (2017), Anti-wrinkle agents - A way of regaining beauty, The Pharma Innovation
Journal 2017; 6(6): 07-13
 Zasada, M., & Budzisz, E. (2019). Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in
cosmetic and dermatological treatments. Postepy dermatologii i alergologii, 36(4), 392–397.