TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN OCTOBER ISSUE 2018

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TE TILEX
VALUE CHAIN
OCTOBER 2018 Volume 6 Issue 10
S
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posting date 18/19 of month | Pages96
v ITMA + CITME 2018 Innovations v Brand Focus – A.T.E v Interview – J P MODATEX
v Market Report : Yarn, Fabric, Surat v Sustainable Fibre : Biophyl
v Weaving Special Issue Part- I

TEMPLE RINGS/ROLLERS
YEARS
India's
Leading
Manufacturer
& Exporter of
Picanol/Dornier/Vamatex/Sulzer/SometGRIPPERS RAPIER TAPES Picanol/Dornier/Vamatex/Sulzer/Somet
Torrey Twister
TEMPLES

www.textilevaluechain.com46 March 2018
Contact:
Suresh Saraf+91 9322 50 4449 / +91 9322 10 4449 | Nayan Saraf - +91 7498 88 1400
Oﬃce Landline - 91-22-6002 0119 /
Email : sureshsaraf2000@yahoo.co.in | info@shreebalajisynfabs.com
sureshsaraf@shreebalajisynfabs.com | Website : www.shreebalajisynfabs.com
Address: Room No.-17, Ground Floor, 342 Kalbadevi Road, Mumbai- 400002
9699 25 8834
SHREE BALAJI SYNFABS
SKBS
MR.SURESH SARAF MR. NAYAN SARAF

3 4 5 AUGUST 2019
SURAT - GUJARAT - INDIA
Media Partner

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E: fabricforming@ateindia.com
W: www.ategroup.com

QUALITY ASSURANCE
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our customers quality, cost effective and innovative products, we have adopted
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As per the prede ned set of guidelines by our experts in laboratory, we
believe that the quality control exercise starts right from the selection of raw
material where each bale of cotton tested carefully based upon its parameters.
Moreover, our end products are best in the market because we have adopted
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On everyday basis, we test yarn at the sliver stage and nal test to be
conducted during the packaged cone stage in each count.
Mori Spinning private Limited produce and supply high-quality cotton yarn produced from the best
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We manufacture OE yarns count range from 6s to 24s with the production capacity of 20
Metric tons per day.
Here's the list of latest machineries;
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3 METAL & FIRE DETECTION LAKSHMI GRECON
4 CARD TRUTEZSCHLER TC 10
5 DRAW FRAME TRUTEZSCHLER TD 7 AND TD 8
6 OPEN END
SCHLAFHORST AUTOCORO 9 (552 ROTORS / MC.) WITH
WAXING DEVICE, COROLAB SQ YARN CLEARER.
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49www.textilevaluechain.comJune 2018
51www.textilevaluechain.comMarch 2018
DN Associates represent in India the following Textile Machinery & Accessories manufacturers
N.Schlumberger, France : Spinning preparatory machines for
Spun and filament LONG fibres (Website:www.nsc-schlumberger.com)
ANDRITZ Asselin Thibeau, France : Complete Nonwoven Lines : Drylaid-
Needlepunched, Hydroentangled and others, Wetlaid, Spunlaid and special machines
for chemical/hydro finishing (Website:www.andritz.com/nonwoven)
Laroche SA, France: Opening and Blending Lines, Textile waste recycling Lines and
“Airlay” Nonwoven Lines (Website: www.laroche.fr)
LACOM GmbH, Germany : Hotmelt Laminating and Coating Systems – Multi Purpose,
Multi Roller, Gravure Roller and Slot Die for complete range of Technical Textiles
(Website:www.lacom-online.de)
Schott & Meissner, Germany : Ovens, Dryers, Heat Recovery Systems,
Heating/cooling calenders, Wet/Dry cooling systems, Cutters, accumulators,
Winders, Palletisers and Bonding systems (Website: www.schott-meissner.de)
Mariplast Spa, Italy : All type of Yarn Carriers for spun and filament yarns including
dye tubes for filament/long fibre yarns (Website: www.mariplast.com)
MORCHEM S.A.U., Spain : PUR Hotmelt Adhesives for Technical Textiles, Solvent
Based, Water Based adhesives, cleaners and primers
https://www.morchem.com/markets-and-solutions/textile-lamination/
Valvan Baling Systems, Belgium : Baling and Bump forming machines for spun fibres
and textiles waste recycling lines (Website:www.valvan.com)
C + L Textilmaschinen GmbH, Germany : Reeling (Yarn Hank Forming) Machines,
steaming, Bulking and Banding Machines for yarns (for Western and Southern India)
(Website:www.croon-lucke.com)
Schmauser Precision GmbH, Germany : Pin Strips, Faller Bars, Disposable Faller Bars
for Intersecting Gills and Chain Gills. Top Combs for Combing Machines in long fibre
Spinning Preparatory Lines (website: www.schmauser.com)
Groz-Beckert Carding Belgium NV, Belgium : Clothing for Cards and Cylinders used in
processing of long fibres, nonwovens and waste recycling
(website:www.groz-beckert.com)
FARE' S.p.A., Italy : Complete Lines for Spunbond / Meltblown nonwoven products
/complete line to produce all type of fibers including mono and bicomponent
including PET and PET fibers. Machines for producing Tapes and Rafia
(website www.farespa.com)
Contact : DN Associates E-mail : info@dnassociates.co.in Website: www.dnassociates.co.in
H.O.:
406, “Kaveri” Jagannath Mandir Marg, Opp. Holiday Inn, Near Sakinaka Metro Station, Mumbai–400 072
Contact Person : Mr. Hemant Dantkale Mobile : 98201 06018 Phone No.: 022-28516018
E-mail : hdantkale@dnassociates.co.in
B-310, Universal Meadows, Plot No. 27, New Sneh Nagar, Wardha Road, Nagpur – 440 015
Regd.Office:
Contact Person : Mr. Yogesh Nawandar Mobile : 98901 53766 Phone No. :0712-2289662
E-mail : ynawandar@dnassociates.co.in
Branch Office at Coimbatore

• Hosiery • Weaving • Denim

19www.textilevaluechain.comOctober 2018
October 2018CONTENT
Cover Story
21-Present Market Situation For Domestic And
Exports Market By S.Hari Shankar
24-Weaving Technology Changing The Weaving
Industry In India By Avinash Mayekar
25-Noise Pollution And Its Control In A Weaving Plant
By Dr. M K Talukdar
30-Critical Constraints And Required Inter¬ventions In
Weaving Industry Of Punjab By Prerna Kapila
33-Stop Marks, Starting Marks And Setting Shed In
Weaving By Dario Paredes Vásquez
38-Problems In Weaving Industry At Bhiwandi,
Maharashtra, India.
39-Different Types Of Fabric Defects
43 -Global Textile Machinery Market In-Depth
Research And Anal¬ysis Report For Forecast
2018-2023
43-GIST Of Letters From Umargam Industries
Asso¬ciation To The Government
Market Report
44 – YARN REPORT
45- FABRIC REPORT
48- Yarn & Fabric Price And Textile Business Migration
By Ketan Thakor Bhatt
50 - Surat Report
52 - Sustainable Fiber
54- Machinery Maintenance Audit
55 – Economy Update
58- ITMA + CITME 2018 INNOVATION
LRT, RIETER, ITEMA, PICANOL, SAURER, LOEPFE, STAUBLI,
DORNIER, DILO, COLORJET, TMAS
EDITORIAL TEAM
Editor and Publisher : Ms. Jigna Shah
Chief Editor : Mr. Bhavesh Thakar
Marketing Executive : Ms. Nishi Patel
Graphic Designer : Mr. Anant A. Jogale
INDUSTRY
Mr. Devchand Chheda : City Editor - Vyapar ( Jan mabhumi Group)
Mr. Manohar Samuel : President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries
Mr. Shailendra Pandey : VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon
Mr. Ajay Sharma : GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group)
Mr. Avinash Mayekar : Consulting Editor
Dr. N.N. Mahapatra : Business Head (DYES),
Shree Pushkar Chemicals & Fertilisers Ltd.
Mr. R.D. Udeshi : President- Polyester Chain,
Reliance Industries Ltd.
EDUCATION / RESEARCH
Mr. B.V. Doctor : HOD knitting, SASMIRA
Dr. Ela Dedhia : Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College
Dr. Mangesh D. Teli : Professor, Dean ICT
Mr. R.M. Shankar : Asst. Director, ATIRA
All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from
this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher.
Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate
information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine
are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher.
Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might
occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.
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Innovative Media and Information Co.
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Advertiser Index
Event Update
66- TMMA
69- ASSOCON 2018
70- TAI
Brand Focus
72- A.T.E.
News
49 - Duty-Free Access To China
73- Dystar
74- Vardhman Partner With RIL
75-Tukatech
76- export demand brings relief to domestic
cotton spinners
77- IITExpo
77- Attirebin
78- Show Calendar
79- INTERVIEW- J P MODATEX
Back Page RAYMOND
Back Inside LIVA
Front inside RAYSIL
3 Prashant Group
4 Sanjay Plastic
5 SGS Innovations
6 SKBS
7 LRT
8 YARN EXPO 2019
9 SIYARAM
10 GTTES 2019
11 RIETER
12 Kushal Institute
13 ATE
14 Mori Spinning
15 Kluber Lubricant
16 Natural TexYarn
17 DN Associates
18 Rudra Cottex
23 Patidar Cotspin
32 Textest Instruments
51 Tomsic
57 Koisokki
65 Kenny Fabric
80 Shreeram Tetile
81 Sumati Cotspin
82 CITI
83 Ramkrishna Cotton
84 Key Tex Accessories
85 Century Ink
86 DTG
87 US Aqua
88 SITEX
89 Gokulanand
90 Tirupati Technik & Vora Associates
91SR Ansari Weaving
92 AttireBin
93 Bharat Beam & PDECXIL
94 ITEMA

20 www.textilevaluechain.com October 2018
Ms. Jigna Shah
Editor and Publisher
‘‘
EDITORIAL
WEAVINGTECHNOLOGY INDUSTRY IN INDIA
Weaving industry transformation done from Handloom to
power loom to Automatic to Robotic looms. All of them are still exist
in Indian textile industry and every technology of weaving is important
whether its airjet, water jet, with shuttle or shuttle less loom etc. As dif-
ferent quality of fabrics required different kind of technology.
Weaving industry in India having mainly divided after Mill culture lost
from Mumbai, INDIA. Organized Composite Mills with Corporate set
up and unorganized SME clusters with power loom technology in tier 2
or 3 cities. Major fabric is produced from SME cluster which is present
in different pockets of India. But majority cluster not doing well due to
lack of business, payment, high yarn price etc.
High tech Weaving Technology which is offered by major European
players, who have easy entry to organized sector, but SME cluster is dif-
ficult. Indian and Chinese Weaving Technology players are fulfilling the
need of SME weaving sector with budgeted and value for money ma-
chinery. Rivalry between each country technology is high, as innovative
technology with fusion of fibers, unique / creative weaving techniques
will be key to get the maximum share of business.
Yarn Traders / manufacture bargaining power very high. They domi-
nate the market with demand supply gap. Government scheme of Yarn
Bank is not properly understood and utilized in required sector.
Import of fabric from different countries with lower production cost,
made this industry difficult to meet their profits. Make in India is may
be not properly sync with bilateral, import duty trade. Due to which
bargaining power of buyers are high, as they have choice of purchase
from different countries.
Weaving industry will go through tough times, if given more advantage
to imported fabrics, payment delays, using old technology etc. We wish
this industry become more organized by their mindset.
Wish you a Very Happy and Prosperous Diwali …!!
Smile in the mir-
ror. Do that every
morning and you’ll
start to see a big
difference in your
life.
’’

COVER STORY
India for ages in textile world is well known only as a spin-
ning country and so naturally for years the textile machin-
ery segment has seen great demand from the spinning
sector only which has resulted in the growth of market for
machinery suppliers from India as well abroad.
Recently the importance of value addition, low invest-
ments & huge returns in other sectors like weaving &
garmenting has comprehended the entrepreneurs to
develop integrated plants & look beyond just yarns. The
weaving industry of India is still controlled by the un-
organized sector. India manufactures only 5% of cloth
through organized sector, 20% through Handloom sector,
15% through knitting sector and 60% is produced through
decentralized power loom sector.
From 2013-14 to 2015-16 the import of weaving machin-
eries has increased with a CAGR of 13%. In 2015-16 India
imported weaving machineries worth US$ 495.2Mn. The
imports in 2017 have slightly reduced due to latest Indian
financial reforms. As per fig 1 there is considerable in-
crease by almost 30% in exports of weaving machineries.
In 2016-17 textile machineries worth Rs. 6650 Cr were
produced in India. Spinning machineries alone constitut-
ed 54% of share. Whereas weaving accounts for a mere
share of 14%. (Fig 2)
The weaving industry in India is bifurcated by three ma-
jor technology and those are handloom, powerloom &
automatic/ shuttleless loom. In the weaving machinery
manufacturing sector, India is hardly having any pres-
ence in shuttleless weaving machinery manufacturing.
The machinery manufacturing operation takes place at
the organized and the unorganized levels. In the organ-
ized sector, in addition to the public limited companies,
manufacturing of machineries is done in independent
units, which have collaborative joint ventures with the for-
eign entities. In the decentralized sector, there are small-
scale industrial units as well as tiny units engaged in the
production of handlooms, powerlooms & accessories per-
taining to the textile machinery. Around 87 per cent of the
total production, i.e., textile machinery is coming from the
six clusters namely Ahmedabad, Bangalore, Coimbatore,
Ludhiana, Mumbai and Surat. These clusters are strategi-
cally located to serve the textile industry and have the af-
filiation to produce the kind of machinery required by the
industry. Majority of the production of loom comes from
Ahmedabad, so it is known as cluster of weaving.
The powerloom industry is equipped with approximately
2.701 million registered looms producing 54,000 sq. mtr
fabrics, which are concentrated in clusters across Erode,
Salem, Madurai, Ichalkarnaji, Solapur, Bhiwandi, Bhilwara
and Malegaon, among others. Powerloom sector contrib-
utes to 57 per cent of the total cloth production and more
than 60 per cent of fabric meant for export
STRENGTHS AND WEAKNESSES
Manufacturing of Airjet & rapier technology weaving ma-
chineries is completely absent. Other shuttleless looms
like waterjet manufactured in India provide very low
productivity and are currently not able to compete with
technological advances and high productivity provided
by other international players. The major drawback in
terms of manufacturing the weaving machineries is the
lack of technical know how. Indian players for years were
involved only in manufacturing conventional machines &
somehow till date have not been able to cope up with the
tremendous technological advance that the sector has
witnessed. In local market the major strength of Indian
players could have been only the cost effectiveness how-
ever due to penetration from Chinese manufacturers the
opportunity is diminished. In case of shuttleless weaving
machines the manufacturing cost is almost equally di-
vided in three parts namely technological components,
accessories & sheet metal hence there is hardly margin
for any new Indian player to start manufacturing weaving
looms in India the other factor is that the total demand of
PRESENT MARKET SITUATION FOR DOMESTIC
AND EXPORTS MARKET

shuttleless looms was negligible.
OPPORTUNITIES AND THREATS
Having a textile culture and one of the renowned coun-
tries in textile trade, there are millions of opportunities
in machinery manufacturing sector especially the un-
tapped sector like weaving machinery manufacturing. We
need to focus more on Research & Development (R&D)
to manufacture high standard textile machinery which
is required for our own consumption, so that we can re-
duce imports. Due to our strategic location, we can also
explore possibilities of exporting appropriate technology
to other developing countries like Bangladesh, Vietnam,
Sri Lanka, Cambodia, etc.
Nowadays, there is an upward trend in inquiries for ad-
vanced weaving machines from weavers of technical fab-
rics. Though Indian machinery industry is currently having
strong presence in spinning & processing sector, we have
not at all explored the big opportunities in manufactur-
ing weaving machines. The growing demands of fabric all
across the world will make weaving as a booming sector
in coming years.
The recent boost to manufacturing through the make
in India initiative will also act as a catalyst towards this
growth. Low material costs and operating costs along
with our own huge market will give India an edge over
other countries. The major threat as far as the weaving
machinery manufacturing is concerned is the research &
technical knowledge. So it is necessary that we strategize
& invest in R& D. Our education pattern should develop
research and innovation based concepts for Textile Engi-
neering students so that the real growth happens within
our country.
So let us come together & create India as “NEXT TEXTILE
MACHINERY HUB”.
Weaving Cluster
Indianweavingindustrycanbebifurcatedinto3segments,
powerloom, handloom & automatic/ shuttleless loom..
The powerloom industry is equipped with approximately
2.701 million registered looms producing 54,000 sq. mtr
fabrics, which are concentrated in clusters across Erode,
Salem, Madurai, Ichalkarnaji, Solapur, Bhiwandi, Bhilwara
and Malegaon, among others For Handloom there are 35
government recognized clusters in 19 states. UP is one
of the largest handloom driven industry having 4 hand-
loom clusters namely Barabanki, Varanasi, Mubarakpur
& Bijnore with 20,000, 80,000, 5000 & 7000 handlooms.
West Bengal is having 3 clusters located at Phulia, Bisnu-
pur & Burdwan with 3200, 1324 & 37500 handlooms. The
Burdwan is recognized for its Tangail Naksapar Sarees
& Jamdani sarees with jacquard designs. Tamil Nadu is
having two clusters called kancheepuram & Salem. The
kancheepuram cluster from Tamil nadu having 7000 han-
dlooms is the origin for the popular Kancheepuram sa-
ree’s & since 2005 it is protected by a geographical indica-
tion label for certifying their origin. Salem is having 8,192
handlooms. In Andhra Pradesh, Chirala, Dharmvaram &
Mangalgiri are the 3 clusters having 5000, 1200 & 663
number of handlooms. These clusters are famous for silk
saree’s, dress materials, lungi’s, stoles & scarfs. The clus-
ters in Assam are famous for muga silk saree’s, eri silk
dress materials, dupatta’s, stoles, scarves, cushion cov-
ers & home furnishing. The Bijoynagar cluster has 7500
handlooms located in south kamrup district of Assam &
Sualkuchi is a multi-caste town under Guwahati subdi-
vision of kamrup district of Assam having 40,000 hand-
loom clusters. Bhagalpur cluster in Bihar is having around
70,000 handlooms with 30,000 weavers which produces
Bhagalpur sarees, dress materials & home furnishings.
Champa in Chhattisgarh is having 300 handlooms & is fa-
mous for producing kosa silk saree’s. In Gujarat Patan &
Bhuj are the two handloom clusters having 49 & 500 han-
dloom respectively. The Bhuj is well known for its woolen
shawls & stoles. Kullu in Himanchal Pradesh produces
geometrical design patterns with multicolor effect in twill
tapestry weaving technique without using any textile
software or devices for the designs. They prefer the use
of vegetable dyes as an added organic touch to their de-
signs. The kullu cluster is having 20,000 weavers & around
6500 handlooms. The warm & artistic pashmina shawls &
raffal shawls are produced at Srinagar cluster in Kashmir
having 582 handlooms. The popular Kani shawls, scarfs
& jamawar are produced in Kanihama cluster located in
Jammu & Kashmir with 250 handlooms. Bhagaiya cluster
in Jharkhand is influenced by the art work of Bhagalpur
cluster having 1500 handlooms. Molakalmuru sarees in
Karnataka are produced in Molakalmuru district having
1500 handlooms. In Kerala there are 2 handloom clusters
namely Balrampuram with 16000 handlooms & Kannur
with 6000 handlooms. The Balrampuram is famous for the
contemporary cloth wearing styles of Kerala. The weavers
here use a primitive type of throw shuttle pit looms for
the production of exclusively cotton fabrics with pure zari.
Maheshwari cluster in Madhya Pradesh is having 2449
handlooms producing fabrics inspired from the art work
on the forts in Madhya Pradesh mainly including stripes,
checks & floral pattern. The Paithani cluster in Maharash-
tra with 350 handlooms is world famous for their paithani
barcode designs and the art needs minimum 2 months to
an year for completing a single saree. Imphal in Manipur
is another region having highest concentration of hand-
looms constituting 2276 handlooms comprising of only
female workers. Orissa is another handloom dominated
state having 7,518 handlooms in Bargarh, 1725 hand-
looms in Sonepur & 2183 handlooms in Nuapatna. The
renowned Sambalpuri Sarees are produced here. They
use the IKAT i.e tie & dye technique. Kota in Rajasthan is
having 1858 handlooms. As the name suggest the “Kota
dori” saree is the produced at this cluster. Pochampally
in Andhra Pradesh with 2000 handlooms is also having
prominent IKAT designs.
COVER STORY

INTEGRATED TEXTILES PARK NEWS
In order to assist the textile industry for setting up world
class state of art infrastructure, increasing investments,
generating employment opportunities, boosting exports
& improvising the delivery times the government has an-
nounced subsidy for assistance in setting up textile parks
in major textile hubs. These parks will contain all com-
mon facilities & infrastructure like compound wall, roads,
drainage, water supply, electricity supply including cap-
tive power plant, common effluent treatment plant, and
telecommunication lines. It will also contain buildings for
common facilities like testing laboratory, design center,
training center, trade center/display center, ware-hous-
ing facility/ raw material depot, packaging unit, crèche,
canteen, workers’ hostel, offices of service providers,
labor rest and recreation facilities, marketing support
system (backward / forward linkages) etc & also factory
building for production purposes. As on 2017 a total 66
textile parks projects are sanctioned by Ministry of textile
out of which 19 parks are completed & 47 parks project
is under implementation. The government of Maharash-
tra recently announced that it is also planning to set up
nine textile parks in the northern cotton-growing regions
of the state. These parks will help to supplement farmers
income through value-added products.
The textile parks are being developed in 14 textile focused
states namely Andhra Pradesh, Gujarat, Maharashtra,
Punjab, Rajasthan, Tamil Nadu, Telangana, Uttar Pradesh,
West Bengal Haryana, Himachal Pradesh, Jammu & Kash-
mir, Madhya Pradesh, & Assam. In the state of Maharash-
tra there are 14 textile parks being developed.
In order to create a complete value chain textile parks will
certainly help and boost the industry. Indian textile minis-
try needs to give benefits to all realistic investors who are
working in this value chain.
India ITME Society as an organiser always strives to pro-
vide the best platform for maximum promotion & publici-
ty to the Textile & Textile Engineering machineries. GTTES
2019 is the only officially globally acclaimed event that as-
sists manufacturers to gain advantage of large customers
market domestically & globally.
It is my pleasure to cordially invite you to the world’s larg-
est textile market-India at GTTES 2019, 18th to 20th Janu-
ary 2019, in Mumbai.
MR. S. HARI SHANKAR
Chairman, India ITME Society
COVER STORY
Patidar Cotspin Pvt. Ltd
Open End 100% Cotton Yarn Counts From 6s To 24s
411-Shanti Arcade,132ft Ring Road, Naranpura, Ahmedabad – 380013,Gujarat, India
Contact :+91-79-29298891/92/93 |Fax: +91-79-40095580
Email: info@patidarcotspin.com | infopatidarcotspin@gmail.com
Website:www.patidarcotspin.com
Suresh Bhai : M + 91 9978442130
Advt.

Technological advancement is need of the hour.
Technology developers are constantly innovating to pro-
duce & upgrade technology of machineries that increase
production, save time & make process simpler. Every now
& then new technologies are introduced that brings mas-
sive change in production quantity, improvement in qual-
ity and operating time or ease out the process. All these
advantages come with a price, it demands additional capi-
tal investment.
Today for completing a single process there are multiple
technologies available that do the same work in multiple
ways. So when it comes to selection of a technology for
textile machineries people just don’t jump to the latest
version like in the case of smart phones. A detailed com-
parison of price to the need of advancement is carried
out along with analysis of advantages that the technology
will offer.
Global Textile machinery market is witnessing tremen-
dous growth buoyed by growing demand of textile & ap-
parel market. It is forecasted to grow at a CAGR of 14.02%
till 2018. The major countries manufacturing textile ma-
chinery are Germany, Italy, Switzerland, Japan, France
and now China. The textile technologies are available in
two version low cost (semi automatic) mostly manufac-
tured in China for low cost countries and high cost (auto-
matic) for developed countries.
The Indian textile Machinery industry is nearly sixty years
old and has more than 1000 machinery and component
manufacturing units. Nearly 300 units produce complete
machinery and the remaining produces various textile
machinery components. We all know that India is the
global leader in textiles next to China. We are having best
quality of cotton and producing finest quality of yarns,
fabrics & garments. But unlike China, we do not have in
house manufacturing of textile machineries. Most of the
machineries are being imported. India in 2016-17 import-
ed machineries worth Rs. 14,990.83 Cr. We are importing
a lot of textile machinery as there are only a handful of
quality machinery manufacturers in India.
There is hardly any Indian machinery manufacturer
manufacturing machines for weaving, knitting that pro-
vides high level of quality standard and performance to
compete with the European manufacturers Weaving ma-
chines have undergone tremendous modifications in last
three decades ultimately resulting in improved quality
and production. In past, major developments in weaving
machinery have been primarily geared up with objective
of higher productivity, better quality, reduction in number
of operations through automation & reduce cost of pro-
duction. From 2013-14 to 2015-16 the import of weaving
machineries has increased with a CAGR of 13%. But in
recent years, beside above flexibility & improvement in
machine utilization are receiving more attention by ma-
chinery manufacturers.
From handloom to power looms & then automatic shuttle
and thereafter shuttleless looms have taken this indus-
try to a new level. Shuttleless machines have not only in-
creased productivity, efficiency but have also made pos-
sible the production of fault free fabrics. In case of Rapier
looms recently various developments have taken place
in filling insertion, shedding mechanism, let-off mecha-
nism, take-up mechanism, selvedge, quick style change
to name a few. Around 2.701 Million registered looms in
powerloom industry are producing 54,000 sq. mtr fabric.
Some of the past developments in weft insertion systems
are Shuttle looms, Projectile looms, Rapier looms, Airjet
looms etc. Apart from the various weft insertion systems,
some of the remarkable developments in weaving have
been higher production system, microprocessor applica-
tion, information technology, quick style change system,
energy conservation, safety measures etc.
The emphasis on productivity and quality has developed
the weaving technology very much and as a result the
working hours required to weave fabric from loom have
been reduced from about 20 to 0.25 during the last 125
years, and in the last 50 years there has been a reduction
of 95% inoperative hours per standard unit produced.
Conclusion
Having a textile culture and one of the renowned coun-
tries in textile trade, there are millions of opportunities
in machinery manufacturing sector especially the un-
WEAVINGTECHNOLOGY CHANGINGTHE
WEAVING INDUSTRY IN INDIA
COVER STORY

COVER STORY
AVINASH MAYEKAR
tapped sector like weaving machinery manufacturing. We
need to focus more on Research & Development (R&D)
to manufacture high standard textile machinery which
is required for our own consumption, so that we can re-
duce imports. Due to our strategic location, we can also
explore possibilities of exporting appropriate technology
to other developing countries like Bangladesh, Vietnam,
Sri Lanka, Cambodia, etc.
It is necessary that we strategies & invest in R& D. Our
education pattern should develop research and innova-
tion based concepts for Textile Engineering students so
that the real growth happens within our country.
MD and CEO, Suvin Advisors Pvt. Ltd.
NOISE POLLUTION AND ITS CONTROL IN A
WEAVING PLANT
Introduction
Noise is an unwanted sound that interferes with the func-
tion in a given space. It is subjective because what is dis-
turbing and unacceptable to one may be acceptable to
another. It is difficult to give a very clear definition of an
irritating noise. Generally, noise is a disturbing sound, re-
gardless of its intensity or duration.
In recent years even, a developing country like India has
taken positive steps against excessive noise. Like air and
water pollution, noise pollution has been accepted as a
major threat to human beings. Much discussion and leg-
islation has been evolved in an attempt to recognize and
combat the problem of noise pollution. It has been recog-
nized that noise, of sufficient intensity, can damage hear-
ing.
Sound is transported through a medium like air, water
etc. by means of its rarefaction and compression. The en-
ergy transmitted in the process per unit time by unit area
of the compressing and expanding medium provides a
measure of the intensity of sound. Since energy per unit
time is equivalent to power in Watts, the unit of sound
intensity is expressed in watts/ sq.m, m. The sound power
of an average whisper is 0.1 µW. The air pressure fluc-
tuation created by sound is measured in Pascal (Pa).. A
normal human being can sense sound pressure varying
in the range of 20 µPa to 20 Pa. A logarithmic decibel scale
(dB) is used to measure sound with reference to hearing
ability of human beings. A sound level of 0dB is assigned
to a sound intensity of 10-12 W/sq.m. Expressing sound
level in dB scale is a convenient method of compressing
the scale of numbering the scale of number associated
with the variation in pressure into a managable range
from 10 log(100) = 0dB to 10log (1012)dB = 120dB. The
decibel is a dimensionless number, which relates sound
intensity or sound pressure levels to some reference
point. When most people use the term decibel or discuss
noise levels in decibels, they refer to decibels as related to
the A-weighted scale (dBA). The A-weighted scale paral-
lels the sensitivity of the human ear and uses the lowest
audible sound that the human ear can detect as the ref-
erence point for determining the decibel level of a noise.
Any noise rating above 80 dBA produces physiological ef-
fects and any long exposure at above 90 or 100 decibels
will produce permanent damage to a person’s hearing.
An increase of 10 dBA is a doubling of loudness with re-
spect to the human ear.
Noise generally consists of many tones with varying rates
of vibration or frequency. The frequency, expressed in
cycles per sound and referred to as cps or Hertz (Hz), is
usually in the range of 20 - 20,000 cycles per second. The
ear is not very responsive to very low or very high tones
as it is selective to the tones of medium frequency. As
mentioned earlier, the dBA scale matches the response of
the ear and is, therefore, well suited for evaluating noise
as it relates to human beings.
This paper highlights the noise in a weaving , its effects
on the workers and the measures taken by machine man-
ufacturers to reduce the noise emission.
Noise in a Weaving Plant
Ahmedabad Textile Industry’s Research Association (ATI-
RA) conducted noise pollution surveys in the Indian textile
mills over a period of 15 years. The results (Table 1)

Table 1– Noise level in different departments of a weaving plant
Section Noise level, dBA
Winding 82 – 86
Twisting 95-100
Texturizing 100 -110
Warping 80 – 86
Sizing 73 – 86
Loom shed (Non-auto) 94 – 99
Loom shed (Auto) 95 – 97
This indicate that noise level in weaving preparatory is
low. Excessive noise level of 94 - 99 dBA is in loom shed,
depending upon the design, type, erection and number
of looms used, machine footing and foundation, condi-
tion of machines, fabric structure, building type, building
size, etc.
Talukdar1
evaluated quantitatively the noise level of con-
ventional automatic looms and observed that the noise
during weaving is mostly impulsive and periodic in char-
acter. When the loom is run with a shuttle, noise level in-
creases by about 1.5 – 2.0 dBA. The maximum noise level
is observed at the front of the machine because of the
movement of sley, which causes air turbulence. As the
loom speed increases, the noise level also increases sig-
nificantly due to the higher impact forces acting on the
different parts of a loom. Spectrum analysis shows that
the peak noise level occurs at the frequencies between
1.4 kHz and 5.0 kHz and is mainly due to the impact be-
tween different parts of the picking and checking mecha-
nisms.
Of the shuttleless weaving machines, noise level of water
jet weaving machine is the lowest (85 dBA) followed by
that of air jet and rapier weaving machines (91 dBA) and
projectile weaving machine (92 dBA).
Effect of Noise on Human Beings
The effect of noise on human health is a subject of re-
search for some time, nevertheless, in India, no system-
atic study has been conducted so far. Damage risk crite-
ria2
of workers exposed to sound level of ≥ 85 dBA at the
frequencies 500, 1000 and 1500 Hz are given in
Table 2. Damage risk Criteria
Equivalent control
sound level, dBA
Risk percentage
10b 20b 30b 4b
85 3 6 8 10
90 10 16 18 21
95 17 28 31 29
100 29 42 44 41
a
A 40-hour week with 50 weeks per year
b
Years of experience = Age - 18years
Balachew and Berhane3
carried out a detailed study in
a textile factory of Ethiopia during October-December
1994. They found the prevalence of, and risk factors for,
noise-induced hearing loss (NIHL) in a textile mill. A sam-
ple of 630 from 5900 workers was selected from the fac-
tory rosters by means of systematic sampling technique.
Data were collected through interview, otology examina-
tion, and pure tone audiogram measurement. Environ-
mental noise survey and personal dosimeter data were
also collected to determine noise exposure levels at every
section of the mill. The highest noise level in area sam-
ples was observed in the weaving section (99.5±3.2 dBA).
History of hearing loss was reported by 51 (8.1%) par-
ticipants, while 57(9.0%) reported a history of ear related
diseases. More than one third (34.3%) complained of cur-
rent ear problems, and 186 (29.5%) complained of ear
pain. On physical examination, 154 (24.4%) were found
to have detectable ear problems, of which 66 (42.9%) had
otitis, while the remainder had ceremonious occlusion of
the auditory canal. There was no significant difference by
gender in the prevalence of detectable ear problems.
Audiometric tests, carried out at a frequency of 4000
Hz, revealed a 34% overall prevalence of NIHL (hearing
threshold level exceeding 25 dBA) with the highest preva-
lence of 71.1% observed among the weavers. Preventive
measures were generally absent, with no employee re-
porting use of personal protective devices (PPDs). Textile
factories 4,5
are among the many occupational settings
that pose the risk of noise-induced hearing loss.
Apart from damage to hearing, there is evidence that noise
also affects the people in the following other ways:
• Reduced performance e.g. reduced ability to concen-
trate.
• Disturbance of sleep.
• Annoyance (oral communication is difficult or impos-
sible), which manifests itself primarily in emotional
responses.
• Excitement (activation) of the central and vegetative
nervous system, e.g. increased blood pressure, higher
heart frequency, and effect of metabolism.
Methods of Reducing Noise and Vibration
The problem of noise pollution can be combated when
there are means of measuring noise levels and a system
of classification. In approaching the possibilities of reduc-
ing noise and vibration, a fundamental distinction must
be drawn between the active and passive measures. Ac-
tive measures are all primary measures, which prevent
noise and vibration to occur in the first place. Passive
measures are all secondary actions aimed at reducing the
radiation of existing noise and vibration.
Active Measures
Despite the enormous increase in speed of the textile ma-
COVER STORY

chines, the machinery manufacturers have succeeded in
keeping the noise level reasonably low. For example, the
speed of the projectile weaving machines has gone up
from 550 m/min to 1500 m / min during the last two dec-
ades, but the sound level of the machine on the emission
side (effect on human beings) reduced from 92 dBA to 86
dBA6
. Some of the active measures taken by the textile
machine manufacturers, especially weaving, to control
noise and vibration are briefly discussed below:
Reducing Inertia Forces
Inertia forces that are produced in a machine are respon-
sible for noise and vibration. If noise and vibration are to
be reduced, this presupposes a reduction in the inertia
forces. Reducing the masses and/or reducing the accel-
eration can achieve this. With this in mind, the weaving
machinery manufacturers have repeatedly optimized the
most important components of the textile machinery and
therefore, there is very little scope to reduce the mass fur-
ther. However, the reduction in mass can also be achieved
through substitution with another material like carbon.
Some progress has been made in this direction. Since the
introduction of new material usually means redesigning
of entire section of the system, the modifications of this
kind are generally not transferable to older machines.
They are, therefore, restricted to newer generation ma-
chines. The simplest method of reducing acceleration is
to reduce the rotational speed and/or to increase the dis-
tance, but both are not feasible for well-known reasons.
A reduction of 10% in speed of a weaving machine6,
for
example, would give a noise reduction of 2 dBA. Another
possibility of reducing noise is the optimum design of the
sequence of motion at a given speed and a given stroke.
Today, cam gears are replaced by crank gears since the
former give acoustic and vibration problems which arise
from the choice of long standstill times and discontinuous
transmission functions, while the latter give harmonious
transmission functions resulting in a steep drop in the ex-
citation spectrum of forces to give acoustically problem
free machine.
General machine components (toothed gears, motor,
fans, etc) are also a major source of noise on all machines.
Noise control is extremely important, for example, in
toothed gears. Faulty gear teeth cause uneven transmis-
sion, and bumpy loading of the teeth. Mass balancing is
another way of reducing noise. Effect of noise reduction
measures of individual functional groups in the projectile
weaving machine6 is shown in Fig 1.
Active Noise Control
Active noise control (ANC) is the state-of-the-art tech-
nique which is most successfully demonstrated for con-
trolling noise in enclosed spaces such as ducts, vehicle
cabins, exhaust pipes and headphones. However, the
most demonstrations have not yet made the transition
into successful commercial products, probably due to the
high capital cost. In 1998, Vigone7
undertook a project to
use active noise control technique on weaving machines.
Initial laboratory study indicated that newly designed ac-
tive noise control is able to work in reverberant field as
the looms’ hall. The basic principle of ANC technique is
outlined as follows:
ANC is sound field modifications, particularly sound field
cancellation, by electro- acoustical means. In simplest
form, a control system drives a speaker to produce a
sound field that is an exact mirror image of the offending
sound (disturbance). The speaker thus cancels the distur-
bance and the net result is no sound at all. In practice, of
course, active control is somewhat more complicated. The
idea of active noise control was actually conceived in the
1930’s, and more developments are done in the 1950’s.
However, it was not until the advent of modern digital
computers that active control became truly practical. ANC
works best when the wavelength is long compared to the
dimensions of its surroundings, i.e. low frequencies.
The four major parts of an active control system are:
• The plant is the physical system to be controlled; typi-
cal examples are a headphone and the air inside it
and the air traveling through an air-conditioning duct.
• Sensors are the microphones, accelerometers or
other devices that sense the disturbance and monitor
how well the control system is performing.
• Actuators are the devices that physically do the work
of altering the plant response; usually they are elec-
tromechanical devices such as speakers or vibration
generators.
• The controller is a signal processor (usually digital)
that tells the actuators what to do; the controller bas-
es its commands on sensor signals and, usually, on
some knowledge of how the plant responds to the ac-
tuators.
COVER STORY
Fig. 1– Noise reduction of individual functional groups in the projectile
weaving machine [LT– box and supplementary girders, SCH– heald
frames, tappet motion and harness drive, SU– picking unit, and FA–
receiving unit

The active control system is yet to implement in a
waving unit.
Passive measures
These measures should be looked at keeping follow-
ing three basic solutions in mind:
• Blocking airborne sound.
• Absorption of airborne sound.
• Vibration damping.
For most applications, a solution will consist of one to
all of these categories.
Blocking Airborne Sound
Individual ear protectors are by far the most effective and
cheapest means of reducing airborne noise emissions.
They are available virtually everywhere in any forms.
However, they must be worn and, therefore, require the
exercise of a minimum of discipline.
Normally all machines including weaving machines have
enclosures. The enclosure is basically made up of a metal
or plastic sheet and its primary function is for cosmetic
purposes or as a safety feature to protect the work force
from a possible hazard. Whatever the case may be, it is
convenient when an enclosure, of any sort, can be utilized
for noise abatement.
At frequencies from 250 Hz to 750 Hz, a barrier can be
extremely effective if a complete enclosure exists. The
major stumbling block associated with barrier materials
is that they are best utilized with complete enclosures.
A small amount of open area, even 1%, will significant-
ly reduce the barrier’s performance. In general, a com-
plete enclosure gives substantial noise reduction, but the
method has considerable drawbacks in respect of space
requirements, monitoring, accessibility, operation and
maintenance, material flow, cleaning and cost. Partial en-
closure has rather fewer disadvantages as regards space
requirements, monitoring and accessibility. However, the
effect achieved is much less with a total enclosure.
When the absorber is coupled with a barrier, significant
reduction can be realised. The acoustical energy, which is
not dissipated by the absorber, is reflected, in part, by the
barrier and is again dissipated by the absorber. The total
energy within the enclosure is reduced, which minimizes
the problem of acoustical energy that escapes out of the
open area of partial enclosures.
Absorption of Airborne Sound
If the major noise problem lies in the medium frequency
range (500 Hz - 4,000 Hz), the acoustical absorption can
be a good starting point.
By lining the interior walls of the enclosure with an ab-
sorber, a significant amount of the acoustical energy in-
cident on the walls can be absorbed and dissipated. Par-
ticulars of a typical acoustic absorbent fabric are given in
Table 3. Properties of acoustical membrane fabrics
Property Fabric I Fabric II
Coated fabric
weight, gsm
475 (nominal) 290 (nominal)
Thickness, mm 0.35 (nominal) 0.35 (nominal)
Strip tensile, N/m
(Strain rate: 50
mm/m)
Warp
Weft
62 (min)
50 (min)
37 (min)
32 (min
Trapezoidal tear,
N/m
Warp
Weft
5.3 (min)
3.5 (min
3.0 (min)
3.2 (min)
Solar transmission
(ASTM E-424), %
Solar reflectance
(ASTM E-424), %
Burning character-
istics
Flame spread (ASTM
E-84)
Smoke generation
(Tunnel test)
0 (max)
0 (max)
5 (max)
15 (max)
Incombustibility of
substrates (ASTM
E-136)
Pass Pass
Sound absorption,
sabins/ m2 Frequen-
cy 250 Hz – 4000 Hz
(ASTM C 123)
0.70 0.55
This fabric utilizes controlled permeability to optimize the
absorption characteristics. Another advantage of mem-
brane is the impervious film facings available that prevent
absorption of dirt, oil, grease and moisture, which will de-
grade the sound attenuating properties and shorten the
life of the foam. Since the most industrial applications
have somewhat of an adverse environment, a film facing
is a necessity.
As sound waves, which are pressure waves traveling
in air, pass through a porous open cell of membranes,
the movement of the air molecules through the open-
ings across the strands and membranes generates heat
through friction which takes energy away from the sound
wave. The most significant attribute affecting an absorb-
er’s acoustical performance is the permeability perfor-
mance of the product..
Rakshit et al.8
studied the noise absorption of 300 gsm
needle-punched nonwoven fabrics using a number of
COVER STORY

blend compositions of wool and polypropylene. They
concluded that wool waste/polypropylene blend could
be used effectively for noise reduction. Sound absorb-
ing covers as well as machine and accessory components
made of special materials or with special coatings may be
used in modern spinning and weaving machines. These
along with other measures can reduce the sound power
level of these machines. For example, the sound level6
of projectile weaving machines at maximum rotational
speed is reduced from 105 to 102 dBA. This corresponds
on the emission side (effect on human beings) to a reduc-
tion of the sound pressure level from 89 to 86 dBA. This
noise reduction of 3 dBA is equivalent to a halving of the
noise exposure.
However, in the areas where low frequency airborne
sound is predominant, an absorber is limited in its ef-
ficiency. Because the wavelength of sound waves is in-
versely proportional to the frequency, the lower is the
frequency, the longer is the wave length. A sound wave-
length at 100 Hz has a wavelength of approximately 3 m.
In an enclosure or partial enclosure application, a sound
absorber cannot reduce the sound energy below what is
being produced. The ideal situation is to absorb enough
energy, so the reflected sound waves do not reinforce the
sound energy being produced. To illustrate this point, if
a noise source produces 90 dBA of sound energy and a
partial or full bare metal enclosure is put over the noise
source, the reflected sound will reinforce the sound pro-
duced and the sound level within the enclosure may in-
crease to 100 dBA . By lining the enclosure with a properly
selected absorption product, the energy of the reflected
sound waves does not reinforce the incident sound
waves. The sound level within the enclosure can be re-
duced to 90dBA, but not below this level since this is what
is being produced.
Vibration Damping
Constantly increasing weaving machine speeds produce not
only steadily higher noise levels but also higher vibration
emissions. In the process, the forces increase proportionally
to the square of the speed (a 10% increase in speed means a
20% increase in forces). Damping pads are used to dissipate
mechanical vibration. For high speed weaving machines,
plastic spring elements were used to reduce vibration emis-
sion. Subsequently, air spring absorbers were developed
to enhance the performance of vibration isolation. Today,
steel spring/laminated base plate elements are replacing air
spring absorbers since the former is just effective as the lat-
er as regards isolation effect, but it is virtually maintenance
free. These elements can be retrofitted.
By damping an enclosure or panel, the panel’s resonance
will be reduced. This may reduce the sound level if the reso-
nance of the panel is significant enough to produce airborne
sound. Another benefit of damping a panel is the reduction
of natural frequency vibration and resonance, which reduces
the effectiveness of the panel to block noise due to its mass.
Weaving Machine Widths
Increased output on a weaving machine can be achieved by
increasing the speed or by using greater widths. The noise
level for a 10% increase in weft insertion rate thus changes
as follows:
• With a 10% increase in rotational speed and unchanged
machine width, the noise level rises by about 2 dBA.
• With a 10% increase in width and the same speed, the
noise level rises by only 0.5 - 0.7 dBA.
Wide weaving machines thus record lower noise levels
than the narrow weaving machines at the same weft in-
sertion rate.
Conclusion
Reduction of noise is important and above all a demanding
task. Machinery manufacturers have attempted to keep the
noise emission as low as possible, but what would have been
achieved in lowering down the noise level has been cancelled
out by the continuous increase in speed. Further progress in
this field is foreseeable with the aid of computer-aided on-
line control.
The noise level in weaving plants is high and it is high time
that the mills must recognize this as an environmental prob-
lem with an impact on occupational environment and take
steps to reduce it. There is a need to establish a hearing con-
versation program in all the weaving plants, the components
of which shall include noise assessment,, increasing aware-
ness among the workers about the adverse effects of noise,
use of hearing protection and audiometry.
Acknowledgement
The author express his gratitude to Mr. Y K Kusumgar , Chair-
man, Kusumgar Corporates Pvt Ltd, for his guidance and
permission to publish this paper.
Reference
1 Talukdar M K, Analysis and synthesis of shuttle propulsion and re-
tardation, Ph.D. thesis, Indian Institute of Technology, Delhi, 1981.
2 Talukdar M K, in Prerequisites of Successful Installation of High
Speed Looms, edited by M L Gulrajani [Textile Association (India),
Delhi], 1983, 13.
3 Belachew Ayele & Berhane Yemane, Ethiop J Health Development,
13(2)(1999) 69.
4 Reich M R & Okubo T, Protecting Worker’s Health in the Develop-
ing World (National and International Strategies, London), 1992.
5 Schuknecht H F, Pathology of the Ear (Harvard University Press,
Cambridge, Massachusetts and London), 1976,302.
6 Sulzer Textil, Private Communication.
7 Vigone Marco, Industrial Engineering Consultants S.r.l., Private
Communication.
8 Rakshit A K, Ghosh S K & Thakare V B, Optimisation of blend of
wool/polypropylene nonwoven fabric for sound absorption , paper
presented at the 9th Inter-Wool Conference, Biella, Italy, 25 –28 June
1995.
COVER STORY
DR M K TALUKDAR

There are very few countries in the world which
own the entire supply chain and India has clear advan-
tage of being one of them. The benefits of owning the
entire value chain in close proximity are many and a pre
requisite for cluster developments which provide neces-
sary forward and backward linkages for the growth of any
industry. Not only does India own a vibrant spinning sec-
tor with availability of a diverse range of fibers but it also
has the advantage of a large market capable of accepting
products in a variety of ranges. In the field of woven tex-
tiles, the country has the capability of producing a wide
variety of products using different count sizes, blends,
cloth of variable weights and weaving configuration, and
a wide range of finishing applications. Another advantage
and the major factor which contributed to the develop-
ment of a vibrant cluster of weaving firms initially is the
low labour cost contributing to enhancing the cost com-
petitiveness of the labour intensive industry. The diverse
traditional knowledge and skill sets in the field of woven
textiles is also a major factor for development of unique
value added products in the country with worldwide de-
mand.
The Indian textile industry, which is specialized in the
manufacture of various types of cloth, is scattered almost
throughout the country. The textile business meets the
local fabric and export requirements. The textile industry
in India is mainly consisting of small scale industries with
limited players functioning at large scale. These small
scale weaving industries producing various products
have an extremely important role to play in the economic,
social and political development of the area where these
units are concentrated. The advances made in various
fields of communication and logistics and the economic
liberalization has resulted in the economies being more
prone to competition within and from outside the coun-
try. The textile sector of the country is also facing huge
competition from other Asian countries where labour
cost is at par or much lesser than our clusters. The tech-
nological capabilities of Indian textile firms are lower, as
compared to those in Canada or China. Most investments
in India have been in spinning units. Amritsar, Ludhiana
and Panipat—the three major textile centers in the North-
ern part of India are strongholds in their respective areas
of knitting, hosiery and carpets and industrial yarns.
The textile industry in Punjab which is the largest em-
ployer in the state after agriculture, though still financially
troubled, accounts for 19 per cent of the total industrial
production of the state and contributes about 38 per cent
of the total exports from Punjab. The two main clusters
of textile industry in the state are located at Amritsar and
Ludhiana. This industry is famous for producing textile
fabrics of different types including cotton, synthetic and
woolen fabrics like blankets, shawls and carpets and warp
knitting fabrics. In order to be globally competitive, the
industry is being forced to improve its cost efficiencies.
The industry is reeling under pressure for extreme labour
shortage affecting the productivity of the industry. There
are approximately 800- 900 textile manufacturing units in
Amritsar and a lot of allied industries for processing like
printing, dyeing and embroidery are associated with the
cluster. In Ludhiana, which is majorly a knitwear cluster,
the power loom based textile units form a major part of
the industrial profile of Punjab and the number of such
units is approximately 250- 260. The industry has the po-
tential to provide employment to approximately 2.5 lakh
workers as skilled as well as unskilled workforce. Majority
of the presently employed workers are migrants from the
neighboring states and engage in cyclic employment. The
industry is facing a deficit of almost 50 thousand work-
ers in skilled worker category. This deficit is resulting in
reduced capacity utilization of the industrial units and the
productivity, quality and cost competitiveness of the clus-
ters is adversely affected. A lot of industries have moved
towards automation but the skill gap is more pronounced
here as the skilled workforce to operate these computer-
ized and semi automatic machineries are not there.
The weaving clusters in India specializes in a particular
type of fabric production due to various factors like raw
material availability in the vicinity, environmental condi-
tions, skill set available, traditional knowledge and culture
of the region. The weaving industry of Amritsar was set
up around 300 years ago when Maharaja Ranjit Singh es-
tablished some weavers in Amritsar. The cloth produced
here was initially sent to various places like Kabul and Iraq
but the trade suffered a setback after partition and the in-
dustry started growing in Surat and Ahmadabad because
of proximity of port and availability of cotton. A lot of
looms got shifted to Surat but setting up of big spinning
units in Punjab helped in reviving of the woven industry at
Amritsar which is a flourishing woven textile cluster today
with developed printing and dyeing industries for value
addition of woven fabrics. The industry in Ludhiana is also
more than a century old and originated from the Kashmiri
migrants who were skilled in weaving fine woolen fabrics
and embroidery. Their products were commercialized by
local traders both within and beyond Punjab and these
traders later diversified to producing other value added
products from woven fabrics. The cluster has an approxi-
mate turnover of Rs. 600 Crores from approximately 240
power loom weaving units. The work of industry is mainly
seasonal as the products are manufactured from acrylic
and wool and are not required throughout the year. The
CRITICAL CONSTRAINTS AND REQUIRED INTER-
VENTIONS IN WEAVING INDUSTRY OF PUNJAB
COVER STORY

share of Ludhiana power loom industry is very less in the
national power loom production and the share of export
from Ludhiana is not more than five per cent.
The weaving industry members comprising Micro and
small manufacturing enterprises at Punjab are engaged
in manufacturing of power loom products like woolen
and acrylic shawls, fashion stoles, gents Lohis ,blankets,
Bed sheets and fabric for various end uses. The employ-
ment pool of the textile industry in Punjab shows that the
industry is not in very good health as depicted by low or
negative yearly growth rates of workers on rolls of the in-
dustry and in many cases the units have been closed. It is
important that we identify the constraints faced by these
industrial units and highlight them for the policy makers
to undertake remedial measures so that they can with-
stand the international competition. The industry reels
with many problems and a collective effort is missing to
find a permanent solution to the various issues. The pow-
er loom manufacturers from other states like Tamil Nadu,
Kerala, Haryana and even other cities of Punjab have
moved over to machineries of improved technology but
the manufacturers from Ludhiana have not taken much
benefit of any technology up gradation facility provided
by the Government. Majority of cluster units have tradi-
tional machinery and there is shortage of technical man-
power with an urgent requirement for modernization of
looms and introduction of new technology .The critical
constraints faced by the weaving industry in Punjab are
many and need to be dealt with before we can expect a
vibrant growth environment in this industry
Trust Building:
Networking among enterprises and sharing of knowl-
edge and resources wherever required is an essential
part of development of an industrial cluster, and the ba-
sic requirement for such networking is trust among the
stakeholders. There is dire lack of trust among the cluster
stakeholders and steps need to be taken through various
soft interventions so that awareness about importance of
information sharing and working together towards com-
mon objectives can be emphasized. There are so many
schemes and incentives provided by the Government of
India for the development of industry but majority of the
industrialists have not managed to reap any benefit from
these schemes due to little awareness about same.
Marketing of the products:
The problem of marketing is usually faced by small scale
industries due to their inability to undertake large market-
ing initiatives and lack of research and new product de-
velopment which helps in creating a niche market. Small
and medium enterprises also find it difficult to enter the
export market due to lack of resources. They usually com-
pete against each other by cutting prices in the absence
of collective efforts. In Punjab region, among medium
scale industries, only four percent units in Amritsar and
thirteen percent units in Ludhiana are directly selling to
foreign buyers while majority are working through agents
and micro and small units are mainly involved in job work
for medium size units.
Adoption of Information Technology:
Even though the younger generation joining the indus-
tries is adept at using the modern means of communica-
tion, still a majority of units have not managed to keep
pace with the speed and need of information dissemina-
tion. There is dire need for adoption of information tech-
nology and making an efficient utilization of the same not
only in communication but in marketing and product de-
velopment also.
Quality control:
The weaving industry being labour intensive, it is also
prone to imperfections due to human error and a lot of
quality control measures are required to be followed at
various stages of production and packing. Globalization
has paved the way for expectations for excellent product
performance while keeping the track on low cost strategy
and cost competencies. The industry is using discretion
with regard to following required quality control meas-
ures which accounts for expensive economy and deterio-
ration in quality and consequently impacts selling price
and decreases profit. The industry needs to constantly
refine its approach to device solutions for improved qual-
ity standards by adoption of latest technology, trends and
marketing techniques
Raw material:
The major raw material is the yarn used in manufactur-
ing and the usage is more of acrylic and polyester yarns
which are either imported or supplied by Reliance indus-
tries Limited. The industry faces a lot of difficulties due to
fluctuating yarn prices and finishing processes due to bet-
ter bargaining power of other industries in the region due
to their extensive volume. A common facility center for
spinning and finishing dedicated to power loom industry
can help in better control on prices and production pro-
cess.
Man power:
The weaving industry is highly labour intensive though
modern machinery is available for majority of opera-
tions. Most of the labour available with weaving industry
is either unskilled or semiskilled. The unskilled labour is
essentially required for movement of raw material, semi-
finished and finished goods. The industry faces a lot of
problem in getting trained and skilled manpower as there
is no training facility for training manpower for running
latest and automatic machines. Some training programs
and a dedicated training center can train local young girls
on these machines and fulfill the existing skill gap.
COVER STORY

PRERNA KAPILA
B.S. Dhillon and Sukhjinderjit Singh
Under utilization of capacity:
The weaving industry especially of Ludhiana indulges
mainly in woolen products and thus is seasonal in na-
ture though the same issue is not faced at Amritsar and
Panipat. This leads to underutilization of capacity of ma-
chinery and other capital assets which disturbs the cost
economies of production. The industry is also fashion
driven and design and market trends affect the demand
of products because of which mass production of goods
is not always possible. The industry works mainly by avail-
ability of orders by buyers and manufacturing planning is
affected by pre booking quantities. A survey found that
65 percent units in Ludhiana and 73 percent units in Am-
ritsar are not operating at full capacity which results in
excessive overhead costs. The industry can definitely ben-
efit by proper linkages with global value chain as it faces
stiff competition from branded national and International
products of similar category and these linkages will help
in capacity utilization.
There are various other challenges being faced by the
industrial units. As the products are seasonal, the work-
ers get seasonal employment and hence it becomes dif-
ficult for small and micro enterprises to invest in a regular
workforce. Increase in Product development and design-
ing capabilities can help the industry get a much better
COVER STORY
hold on the market. The workers should be provided in
house training by employers and the system of promo-
tion and incentives should be properly implemented. The
pollution norms, though necessary to be followed, should
be implemented properly, the norms should be realistic
in nature with reduced formalities and a single window
system for all type of clearances should be adopted. Clus-
ter approach has been very successful in similar indus-
tries at other places as it helps smaller units to grow with
the benefit of large enterprise. There should be a com-
mon facility center and a yarn bank should be set up to
help members negotiate better raw material prices by
making centralized purchase. Thus the focus of the clus-
ter should be on increased automation, improvement
of quality standards, improved material flow and usage,
prepare local workforce for handling and operating latest
automatic machines, creating a conducive environment
for this workforce, increased adoption of information
technology and enhanced level of mutual trust among
the stakeholders.
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Is important to start by explaining that the stop
marks and starting marks are common defects in the
weaving, the difference, which can be an advantage or a
disadvantage, is due to the characteristics of the fabric
that makes these defects are more notorious or less no-
torious.
The intention of this publication is to explain the main
criteria to control and repair these defects, the textile
adjustments made must first seek to reduce or eliminate
machine stoppages, warp stop and weft stop, then elimi-
nate or attenuate stop or starting marks.
Fig: Starting marks
First, we must recognize the types of defects that can oc-
cur in the fabric for a stop mark or a start mark:
1. Open Marks:
It occurs when one or more picks are separated leaving a
horizontal line open. This failure usually occurs in fabrics
with low cover factor.
2. Dense Marks:
It occurs when one or more picks are together leaving a
closed horizontal line. This failure usually occurs in light-
weight fabrics.
3. Wavy Marks:
It is produced when more than one picks is superim-
posed, one above the other, leaving a horizontal band
that is uneven and closed. This failure occurs in heavy
fabrics, twills or satins with high cover factor and always
at machine start-up.
The next step is to determine what type of defect is oc-
curring and if it is generated at machine stoppage or
startup. For this, there is a simple procedure for testing
stop and start marks:
1. Cause a stoppage of the loom, by warp and by weft.
2. Insert a color yarn approximately 10 to 20 cm in front
of the last inserted picks.
3. Wait for one to three minutes.
4. Start the loom.
5. Check the type of defect, open or dense, and if this
defect occurs before or after the color yarn used as a
mark; this way, we determine if the failure occurred at
stoppage or at machine start-up.
6. To realize various tests with different regulations,
minimum 20 cm distance between one and another
test.
STOP MARKS, STARTING MARKS AND SETTING
SHED IN WEAVING
nate or attenuate stop or starting marks.
COVER STORY

Basic Controls:
Is necessary to ensure the correct state and operation of
the mechanical and electronic parts of the loom to rule
out possible open and / or dense by default of machine,
for example:
1. Mechanical function of let-off and take-up
y Bearings
y Gears
y Transmission chains
y Supports / joints
y Covering of sand beam and pressure rollers.
2. Temple, wear and type of rings according to the fabric.
3. Levers: transmission of the shed former, wastage of
the bearings
4. Drive and brake of machine, pulleys and transmission
belts.
There is also the possibility that the fabric presents open
or dense defects during the weaving process, but these
are attributed to defects of some mechanical or electron-
ic component. This report will not review these defects,
which correspond to preventive and / or corrective main-
tenance.
Main Causes:
We will review three main causes that generate the stops
marks and starting marks and that in modern looms we
have the option to control and regulate.
Machine stop times:
The start marks are more notorious depending on the
time that the loom is stopped waiting for its intervention,
the longer the stoppage, more severe is the failure; this
reason is basically a work method. It must be sought to
reduce machine stop as much as possible; with textile
adjustments to avoid machine stop or with timely atten-
tion; For example, if there is a warp stop on a loom and
a filling stop on another loom, the filling stop should be
repair first since it is faster to intervene and repair next
the warp stop.
Nominal speed:
It is the adjusted maximum speed of a loom during its
working process and it differs according to the load or the
slow motions of the loom. Here it is important to under-
stand three concepts:
Braking angle:
When a machine stop occurs, it does not stop instantly;
it has a brake slip depending on the type of drive or the
machine speed. This can be from 40 ° to approximately
200 °. It is important to know this information, since it
allows us to know how the last picks inserted pass was
completed. If this last was during the beat-up moment, it
is possible that a open mark is generated; since it will be
less than its nominal speed (less force beat-up).
Stop position:
After the machine stop has been produced, it is posi-
tioned in a specific adjusted degree. The conditions of the
position of stopped will depend on the type of insertion
of the loom, the ligament and the stopped type; for ex-
ample, it is recommended, when working a fabric plain,
to regulate the stop position at the moment of the shed
crossing when a filling stop occurs to avoid stretching the
warp during the stop time, until the operator arrives to
look for the correct picks and start the loom; similarly
when a warp break occurs, adjust a stop position that al-
lows the operator to easily insert the warp through the
needles and the reed without the need for additional
manual movements.
Start position:
After the operator makes the repair or correction of the
stop, the machine goes to a starting position degree. The
criterion here is to seek that the first inserted picks is
beat-up as close to its nominal speed, depending on the
machine rpm, the nominal speed is reached only at the
third or fourth picks. For example, when the first insert-
ed pick leaves a open mark at the start, what we have to
regulate is the position farthest from the finishing point;
So we give you more time to reach your nominal speed.
In some modern looms, for example the Picanol loom,
is possible to have the option of regulating empty picks
(ASO value), in this way, it is possible to achieve that the
first inserted picks is beat-up at its nominal speed.
It also has other electronic options to correct stop o start-
ing marks with adjustments in the let-off and take-up sys-
tem.
In the following image we show an interactive screen for
adjusting the start and stop marks of a PicanolOmniPlus
800 loom and on the scale how movements are gener-
ated according to the setting made for “others
Warp tension difference:
The difference in tension that affects the stop and start
marks is determined by the correct adjustment of the
shed. The shed is the tunnel that is formed with the
movement of the warps that go up and down according
COVER STORY

to the design of the fabric through which the weft is in-
serted and that we will detail some types of adjustments
later on.
To regulate a correct shed it is necessary to know some
conditions of the style or fabric:
The cover factor:
t is a value that indicates the covering property of a fabric,
the maximum capacity of warp or weft in a specific space.
This will help us determine if the fabric to be worked is a
heavy item (> 85% tupidity) or light weight (<65% tupidity)
and in this way regulate the appropriate posterior shed.
The following are the formulas for calculating the warp,
weft, and total coverage factor.
For example, if we have a fabric with a weave plain (1/1)
with a total cover factor of 31.5, with the maximum cover
for 37, then we say 31.5 / 37 is equal to 85% of tupidity;
This fabric can be
considered heavy
style.
The warp density:
It is important to
know the amount
of warp per reed,
if the style has 2
warps per tooth, 3
warps per tooth or
more. Also, it is important to know the number of teeth
per centimeter. This information will help us to know
with what ease or difficulty the warp will crossing in their
movement to form the shed. This will help us to regulate
the previous shed appropriate to the weave or fabrics.
Weave of fabric:
Knowing if the fabric is plain, twill, satin or dobby; also if
it is a light, heavy or neutral weave will help us to regulate
the appropriate posterior shed.
In addition, the shed must have certain important basic
characteristics to achieve a “clean” shed that allows a cor-
rect separation and movement of the warp and a correct
insertion of the weft.
Shed angle: You should start working with the lowest
possible opening angle to prevent stretching the warp so
much. It must be understood that the more shed opening
is regulated; it will require more time to recover the elon-
gation that suffers during the movement of the frames
and the movements of slow motion during the stop and
start of the machine.
Shed height: It will be restricted or limited according to
the type of insertion (air, rapier or projectile). Similarly,
what is sought is that during the beat-up of the weft is
made as soft as possible. Also, to help warp layers can be
individualized and to help separate them easily.
Symmetry: Depending the ligament and the cover factor,
different variants of sheds can be adjusted to allow the
best work (efficiency) and the lowest incidence of stop
marks and / or starting marks (quality).
Gap: Depending the warp density, that is, the ease or dif-
ficulty of the warp to separate from each other during
the shedding movement, different degrees of gap can be
adjusted to help the warp pairs cross at different times al-
lowing a better separation, the best gap frame is achieved
in cam motion shed former, because makes the separa-
tion at the crossing shed moment.
Tension: According to the yarn title, the type of material,
the amount of yarns, the preparation conditions, among
other factors, the appropriate warp tension must be ad-
justed.
The Anterior Shed:
The separation of yarns formed between the beat-up and
the needle (frame) is called “anterior shed”. As an initial
basic adjustment, you should seek for the smallest pos-
sible shed angle, sufficient for a clean weft insertion. For
an adjustment it will be necessary to control the shed
from the beginning of the insertion to the end of it, being
at 180° after the crossing of the shed a maximum posi-
tion that will show us the appearance or formation of the
shed. There are two types of anterior shed:
Anterior shed symmetrical: The yarns of the upper shed
and of the lower shed form closed lines. To form a shed
symmetrical angle the opening of the frames is increas-
ing, therefore they have different tensions.
Applications:
y Filament fabrics, warp with little hairiness.
y Lightweight fabrics, easily separated warp.
y Fabrics with a low density of warp.
Anterior shed asymmetrical: The yarns of the upper
shed and / or the lower shed form different layers (dif-
ferent lines)
COVER STORY

Applications:
y Fabrics with warp hairiness difficult to separate.
y Fabrics with a high density of warp per comb tooth.
Is possible to regulate different variants of shed asym-
metric:
1. With shed height:
Used in basic fabrics (taffeta, twill, satin) to separate in
different layers.
Example:
• In ligaments with four frames
1st frame = basic adjustment+ 0 mm
2nd frame = basic adjustment + 1 mm or 2mm
3rd frame = basic adjustment + 2 mm or 4mm
4th frame = basic adjustment + 3 mm or 6mm
• Taffeta of four frames
1st frame = basic setting
2nd frame = basic setting
3rd frame = basic adjustment + 2 mm or 4mm
4th frame = basic adjustment + 2 mm or 4mm
2. With shed angle (opening):
Used in special fabrics that combine ligaments with differ-
ent elongation points, it consists of giving different angles
according to the ligament.
Example:
The frames that correspond to the twill that has more
elongation should be given less opening than the frames
that correspond to the taffeta that has less elongation.
In this way it is about compensating or equaling warp
tensions; remember that having more opening this warp
stretches more and needs to recover this elongation.
3. With shed crossing:
Used only in cam motion, mainly in articles with high warp
density and difficult separation in needle and reed, by giv-
ing different shed crossing the pairs of frames will cross
at different times, having a better separation.
Example:
Frame 1 and 2 cross to 320 °
Frame 3 and 4 cross to 310 °
Frame 5 and 6 cross to 300
It is possible to use combinations of these three variants
according to the complexity or need, taking care that one
of them does not negatively influence the other, so that it
decrease or cancel the obtained advantage.
Effects of Shed Crossing:
(reference of degrees for a loom with beat-up 0°)
1. Early Crossing: 290° - 310°
y The filling is dragged with more friction and less ten-
sion in front of the reed, this allows it to better accom-
modate the beat-up.
y The filling has less contraction.
y Is favorable in heavy fabrics and wavy marks problems.
y It does not favorable fabrics with hairiness yarns since
having more friction creates more pilosity.
y Presents a more closed aspect of the fabric.
2. Standard Crossing: 310° - 320°
3. Delayed Crossing: 320° - 350°
y The inserted filling is dragged without creating any
tension as it is softer dragged to the front beat-up.
y We take better care of the filling.
y Does not favor heavy fabrics.
y The filling loses some of its tension, favorable for weak
and hairiness warp.
y It can cause vertical reed marks, rapier guides, projec-
tile or relay nozzles.
y The fabric has greater force the beat-up.
The Posterior Shed:
Posterior shed symmetrical: The support of the fabric in
the anterior shed is the temple profile. This forms a line
with the feeler roll.
In this way a symmetric line is obtain; here the warp of the
upper shed and the lower shed have the same tension. So
the warp are better taken care.
It can be used as a basic adjustment for light fabrics with
low density, low cover factor, fabrics with weak warps,
with loops warp.
COVER STORY

Posterior shed asymmetrical:
Upwards: The height of the feeler roll adjusted above the
point of symmetry.
With this adjustment, the lower shed have more tension
and the upper shed have less tension. Thus, a beat-up
effect is produced, higher weft densities can be possible
obtain since the filling are placed one on top of the other
achieving a more closed appearance of the fabric.
It can be used as a basic setting in heavy fabrics such as
denim, canvas, awnings, etc., as well as in poplin to im-
prove the striped appearance of the fabric.
When working with cam motion, it is possible to achieve
this effect using asymmetric eccentrics with the longest
position down, so we do not need to give a lot of height to
the feeler roll, favoring ergonomics.
Down: The height of the feeler roll adjusted below the
point of symmetry.
With this adjustment, the upper shed have more tension
and the lower shed have less tension. It can be used in
fabrics where the highest load is woven upwards and is
favorable for the best distribution and separation of the
warps.
When working with cam motion, it is possible to achieve
this effect using asymmetric cams wi th the longest po-
sition upwards; in this way we do not need to lower so
much the height of the feeler roll.
Posterior shed short:
The back rest adjusted in position as more close to frames.
I n this position the warp tension is bigger because the
distance is shorter; a better separation of the warps is ob-
tained in a way that favorable in hairiness warps.
It can be used in heavy fabrics and up to 8 frames since
more frames can cause the action of the shed to raise the
forks on their rails causing false stop warps or damaging
the rails.
Posterior shed intermediate:
The back rest adjusted in intermediate position. Is pos-
sible obtain a better care of the warps since the distance
to be controlled is greater.
It can be used as a basic adjustment in lightweight fabrics
of 4 to more frames, in weak warps and with little elonga-
tion.
Posterior shed long:
The backrest adjusted in position farthest from the
frames.
With this shed is possible to compensate better the warp
tensions caused by warps with different ligaments, since
the distance to be controlled is much greater.
It can be used on fabrics with weak warps and special fab-
rics with different elongation points.
Other Adjustment that Influence in the Posterior
Shed:
Warp stop adjustment:
The influence of the profundity and height of the Warp
stop,is also important for a good shed and a good ap-
pearance of the fabric.
Warp stops Profundity:
1. If we adjust the warp stop profundity more close to the
weaver (forward):
y The warps are separated more easily, favorable for
hairiness warps.
y Improves the warp tensions in both layers of warps
achieving a cleaner shed formation.
y When working with 6 or more frames, it can happen
that the warps raise the forks causing damage to the
warp rails and the warp yarns. This movement of the
forks also causes tension differences, producing an
uneven effect most notorious towards the selvedges.
2. If we adjust the warp stop profundity more farther
from the weaver (back):
y It is used for weak warps and of different tensions, to
better care and control the warp, reduces the forma-
tion of specks and hanged warps.
much the height of the feeler roll.
COVER STORY

Warp stop height:
y In lightweight fabrics, care must be taken that the
support of the warp stop does not deflect the warps,
causing tension variation, since this may cause starting
marks.
y In weak warps or low sizing, the height of the warp
stop be adjusted to reduce or eliminate the friction of
the yarn.
Use the deflection cylinder:
It is used to lighten the load of the feeler roll when we
work heavy fabrics, with a high cover factor.
The deflection cylinder can be adjusted in two different
positions, according to profundity and height. It must be
said that the deflection cylinder withstands most of the
warp tension.
When working light fabrics, weak warps that produce
breaks, it is preferable to remove the deflection cylinder,
in this way the warp tension is better controlled.
Warp tension:
A correct warp tension is important for the formation of
a good shed and as a consequence obtains a good effi-
ciency and quality.
This tension will depend on the amount of warps, title,
material, sizing quality, height and angle frame adjust-
ments, and fabric density.
It is difficult to define a standard tension, due to the in-
fluence of different factors mentioned above, in practice
and with the knowledge of said factors, the correct warp
tension will be that which does not cause warp breaks
(high tension), nor cause loops warp or fillingstop due to
tangled or warp breaks during insertion in rapier or pro-
jectile looms (low tension), as well as their influence on
the appearance of fabric (beat-up, edge strength, edge
formation) or starting marks.
The correct analysis of the defect presented and the ap-
propriate adjustment according to the criteria explained
will eliminate and / or attenuate the effect of the observed
quality failure.
COVER STORY
DARIO PAREDES VÁSQUEZ
Textile Technician (Lima, Perú )
Manchester of Power loom cluster ,Bhiwandi is not in a
good position due to various reasons :
• Yarn rates are very fluctuating, Yarn traders / manu-
facturer domination in the sector.
• Cost of Fabric is higher as compare to other places in
India due to higher expenses, rates of wages, lands
etc. Productivity reduced, as this sector fully opera-
tional only for 4-5 months. China’s cheap finished
fabrics had broken the bone of Indian textile trade.
China’s finished cloth is equal to Indian raw materials.
• No New labour available due to lack of training in pow-
er loom sector. Shortage of labours is the chronic pain
to textile weavers.
• High power costs as compare to other state is also one
of the major concerns for Bhiwandi weavers.
• Ease of Business getting worsen due to GST, VAT, in-
dustrial safety standards. Bureaucracy of Indian Gov-
ernment making Bhiwandi weavers life miserable.
• Working outside Bhiwandi customer is a nightmare,
due to payment delay and defaulter. Legal, Police and
Financial system not supporting to weavers. Weaving
business is at high risk as no profit gain, power looms
are selling at scrap rates. After agriculture, textile sec-
tor has become bankrupt & suicide zone.
Views by Weaver from Bhiwandi, Maharashtra, INDIA.
PROBLEMS IN WEAVING INDUSTRY AT BHIWANDI,
MAHARASHTRA, INDIA.

DIFFERENTTYPES OF FABRIC DEFECTS
Generally fabric defect is any abnormality in the Fabric
that hinders its acceptability by the consumer. Fabric is
produced with interlacement of warp and weft yarn or
loop formation of yarn. During manufacturing of fabric
various types of defects occur in fabric. Some fabric faults
are visible and some faults are invisible. In this article I
will discuss on visible faults of fabric with appropriate pic-
tures.
Visible faults or defects in fabric may be result from the
following reasons. They are:
y Defects resulting from faulty yarn
y Faulty weaving process
y Incorrect dyeing and finishing processes
These faults have a visible effect on a fabric, comprising
all the disproportions within the structure of the textile
material that interfere with its end use. If these faults are
not detected early, that is, during the manufacturing pro-
cess, they can drastically affect the production process
and the quality of the finished product. According to the
BS 6395: 1983 standard, a fabric fault is defined as any
feature within the usable width of a fabric that will down-
grade the resultant garment.
Visual faults can be categorized as spinning, weaving,
dyeing, and processing faults, as well as mending faults,
which arise due to mistakes during the fault removal or
mending process.
Here I will discuss some essential defects or faults that
are appear in woven fabric.
1. Warp direction faults:
Material defects in the warp direction occur in the threads
and are defined as follows:
A. Thick or thin end: A warp thread that differs in diam-
eter from the surrounding normal ends.
B. Tight or slack end: A warp thread, or part of a warp
thread, that is tighter or slacker than the surrounding
normal ends.
C. Missing or broken end: The absence of a complete
warp thread or part of a warp thread.
D. Tight or slack end: A warp thread, or part of a warp
thread, that is tighter or slacker than the surrounding
normal ends.
E. Missing or broken end: The absence of a complete
warp thread or part of a warp thread.
Fig: Missing or broken end
F. Broken pattern: Broken pattern is caused if warp yarn
is broken when a pattern was being created during weav-
ing.
G. Double end: A thread, or part of a thread, in the warp,
which has accidentally been doubled.
H. Defective selvage: Selvage having warp yarn under
high tension may cause pucker or wavy surface resulting
in defective selvage. Besides, selvage may be thick and
thin and may possess broken ends, temple mark, etc. De-
fective selvage may make the whole fabric defective and
fabric finishing difficult.
Fig: Defective selvage in fabric
COVER STORY

I. Warp streak: Streak running in warp direction. Group
of yarns having different dye shades may result in warp
streak.
Testing for faults in the warp direction is conducted us-
ing a simple visual assessment of the imperfections in the
fabric to decide which would be unacceptable in a gar-
ment. The number or faults in the fabric are then counted
and their lengths are measured. Faults are tolerated if the
residual cloth width satisfies the terms of the contract.
2. Weft direction faults:
Material defects in the weft direction also occur in the
threads and are defined as follows:
a. Thick or thin pick: A weft thread that differs in diam-
eter from the corresponding normal picks.
b. Tight or slack pick: A weft thread, or part of a weft
thread, that is tighter or slacker than the corresponding
normal picks.
Fig: Tight or slack pick
c. Loose weft or Slough off or Snarl: When a bunch of or
coil of yarn slips from the pirn during weaving then thick
yarn bunches or coils appear on the fabric.
Fig: Loose weft or Slough off or Snarl
d. Missing pick: The unintentional omission of one com-
plete pick across the full width of the cloth
Fig: Missing pick
e. Broken pick: A pick that is inserted for only part of the
cloth width.
Fig: Broken pick
f. Double pick: The thread or pieces of thread in the weft
which form the woven structure but are accidentally dou-
bled.
COVER STORY

Fig: Double pick
g. Trailer: Weft yarn that has been pulled inadvertently
into the fabric during weaving.
Fig: Trailer
As with the assessment of faults in the warp direction,
testing for faults in the weft direction is also conducted
using a simple visual assessment of the imperfections in
the fabric that would be deemed unacceptable in a gar-
ment, followed by a measurement of their lengths. In this
case however, no tolerance is permitted for faults detect-
ed using this method of control.
3. Stripes in the warp:
Stripes or streaks in the warp, which extend either for
part of the warp direction or over its entire length and
which show up as faults against the rest of the material,
are considered being faults in the fabric. A visual assess-
ment of the fabric and the measurement of the length of
the stripes are sufficient tests to decide whether the im-
perfections would be unacceptable in a garment. Stripe
faults are tolerated if the residual cloth width meets the
terms of the contract.
Fig: Stripes in the warp
4. Bars in the weft:
Bars in the weft are defined as streaks, which occur
over either the full or part of the length of the weft
direction and which show up against the rest of the
piece. Again, a visual assessment of the imperfections
is used to decide whether they would be unacceptable
in a garment. The length of the bars is also measured
if they occur in a sequence. No tolerance is permitted
for faults detected using this method of control.
Fig: Bars in the weft
5. Knot or slubs in the warp or weft threads:
Knot or slubs in some of the weft or warp threads are
considered to be faults when they are visible to an experi-
enced person and when they spoil the appearance of the
fabric. This visual assessment is sufficient to test whether
the faults would be unacceptable in a garment and no tol-
erance is permitted for faults detected using this method
of control.
Fig: Knot or slubs
6. Mixed warp and weft:
If wrong yarn is used instead of correct one, this defect
appears.
7. Faulty mending and burling, tears, holes and stains:
Faults caused by mending and burling, tears, holes and
stains are defined as follows:
a. Faulty mending: poor appearance of repair on the sur-
face of the fabric.
b. Faulty burling: The presence of faults which have not
been removed during burling.
COVER STORY

Fig: Burling
c. Tears, cuts and holes: Various forms of cloth breakage.
Fig: Holes
d. Stains: Areas of the cloth that have been contaminated
with impurities.
Fig: Oil or other stains
e. Iron Mark: Sometimes iron marks appear in the fabric
caused from rusted reed.
These types of faults are again tested using a visual as-
sessment of the imperfections and the measurement of
their length to ascertain whether they are unacceptable
for use in a garment. No tolerance of these faults is per-
mitted.
8. Fabric pieces cut in several parts:
Fabric is deemed faulty if it is cut across the whole width
in two or more parts, the total being equal to the required
length. Once it has been verified that the number of the
separate parts together makes up the length ordered, no
tolerance of this fault is permitted.
Fig: Pieces cut
9. Reed marks:
Reed marks may appear due to defective reed, improper
warp tension denting.
Fig: Reed marks
10. Rough cloth surface:
If fabric is weaving with yarn, under heavy tension or un-
balanced tension then rough cloth surface appears. In the
weaving time, if un-steamed yarn is used then fabric sur-
face becomes dull.
11. Shuttle mark:
Shuttle mark appears along weft yarn and is caused due
to friction with the shuttle.
12. Shading:
Shading is a common problem for dyed fabric. When
color variation occurs from wrong handling of fabric.
References:
Design of clothing manufacturing processes by- Jelka Ger
š ak
Quality management in apparel industry by- Engr. A.J.S.M
Khaled
https://www.slideshare.net/azhartip1/fabric-
faults-81244352
http://fashion2apparel.blogspot.com/2018/03/different-
types-fabric-defects.html
COVER STORY

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN OCTOBER ISSUE 2018

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN OCTOBER ISSUE 2018

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TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN OCTOBER ISSUE 2018