This document is Akansha Choudhary's internship report summarizing their 15-day internship at OCM Private Limited, a textile manufacturer in Amritsar, India. It provides an overview of OCM, which began in 1924 and produces a range of wool and wool-blend fabrics. The report then describes various processes observed at OCM, including dyeing techniques like jet dyeing and jig dyeing. It also summarizes the spinning process from blending fibers to roving, and other areas like weaving, mending, inspection, and quality control. The report is intended to fulfill an academic requirement for Akansha's internship at the National Institute of Fashion Technology in Patna.

1. 1
National Institute
of Fashion
Technology Patna
Textile Internship Report
OCM Private Limited
Akansha Choudhary
(BFT/19/286)
NIFT PATNA

2. 2
Declaration
I hereby declare that the presented report of textile internship at OCM Pvt. Ltd,
Amritsar under the guidance of Institute Mentor, Mr. Prabhat Kumar is uniquely
prepared by me after the completion of fifteen days work at OCM Pvt. Ltd, Amritsar.
I also confirm that the report is solely prepared for my academic requirements and
not for any other purpose. It shall not be used with the interest of opposite party of
the corporation.
Akansha Choudhary

3. 3
Certificate
This is to certify that this internship report submitted to ‘National Institute of Fashion
Technology, Patna’ is a record of an original work done by Akansha Choudhary
under the guidance of Institute Mentor, Mr. Prabhat Kumar, Assistant Professor,
NIFT Patna and industry Mentor, Ms. Kanika Mahajan (Assistant Manager) towards
successful completion of the textile internship report.
No part of this work has been copied from any other source. Material wherever
borrowed has been duly acknowledged.

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Acknowledgement
I would like to pay my gratitude to OCM Pvt. Ltd. for showering me the opportunity
to perform internship under textile department and for laying out a helping hand
towards me throughout the course of this internship.
I would also like to thank National Institute of Fashion Technology Patna for giving
me the opportunity and facilitating our internship. It was a one of a kind, excellent
learning experience to observe one of the most well planned and original textile units
out there. I take this opportunity to thank everyone who guided me through the entire
process and made my training a success by sharing their knowledge.
At OCM Pvt. Ltd. I would like to thank my industry mentor Ms. Kanika Mahajan,
without whose guidance the internship couldn’t have completed satisfactorily. I
would like to express a special gratitude to the company for being excellent hosts.
I am also grateful to our course coordinator Mr. Jayant Kumar and my mentor Mr.
Prabhat Kumar for guiding me at every stage and making this internship a victory.
Akansha Choudhary

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Objective of Textile Internship
The objective of this textile internship at OCM India Ltd is to understand the concept
of fabric production, spun yarn production, dyeing and their quality concepts for
both technical along with for commercial purposes. The first step was to was to learn
about the profile of the company and their basic dealings. I further dealt with the
way the company handles the raw material and sends it through to subsequent stages
of manufacturing. I learnt about the multiple stages in the whole process of textile
manufacturing, the importance of each of these stages, the machine features,
machine and material process parameters available comprehensively in the given
areas.
I have summarized some of the major concepts that I observed and understood
during my internship:
a) Dyeing section
b) Yarn manufacturing and winding section
c) Weaving section
d) Mending
e) Finishing section
f) Inspection
g) Testing and Quality control

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INDEX
Serial No. Topic Page No.
1 Company's Overview 8
2 Dyeing
▪ Procedure
▪ Infra red machine
▪ Glycerin Bath Machine
▪ Top And Yarn Dyeing
▪ Hydro extractor
▪ RF dryer
▪ Fabric Dyeing
▪ Jet Dyeing
▪ Soft flow dyeing machine
▪ Jig Dyeing
10
3 Spinning
▪ Blending
▪ Combining
▪ Post combing
▪ Drawing
▪ Roving
▪ Ring frame
▪ Autoconer machine
▪ Parallel winding
▪ Steaming
▪ TFO twister
14
4 Weaving
▪ Design development
▪ Direct warping
▪ Sectional warping
▪ Drawing-in & Denting-in
▪ Rapier weaving
▪ Loom shed
▪ Dobby shedding
▪ Weaving mechanism
20
5 Mending 26

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6 Inspection
▪ Process flow of inspection system
▪ Weighing
▪ Folding
▪ Packaging
27
7 Finishing (Specialisation)
▪ Singeing
▪ Wet section
▪ Scoring
▪ Hemmer machine
▪ Matt machine
▪ Dolly machine
▪ Hydro extractor
▪ Milling purpose
▪ Drying and heat setting
▪ Drying machine
▪ Shearing machine
▪ Decadazing Paper Press Machine
▪ Rotatory machine
▪ Kier Decadiser Process
▪ Super finish machine
▪ Formula 1 press machine
▪ Perching machine
29
8 Quality Assurance
▪ Physical section
▪ GSM tester
▪ Martindale tester
▪ Tear strength tester
▪ Yarn twist tester
▪ Crockmeter
▪ Colour matching cabinet
▪ Digital twist tester
▪ pH meter
▪ Yarn evenness tester
▪ Microscope
▪ Dyemaster
▪ Washometer
▪ Pilling tester
▪ Hot air oven
38

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Company's Overview
OCM Private Limited (formerly known as OCM India Limited) began its journey as
a manufacturer in the textile field in 1924 and forayed into worsted fabrics in 1972.
Today, the Company has an extensive product range. From high quality all wool and
wool-blended worsted fabrics to ready-to-wear garments including various wool
based accessories and other fabric products as well. It is the first integrated worsted
unit in India and was awarded the prestigious ISO 9001 certification. Today the
Company’s ownership lies with U.S.A. based global private equity fund
management company WL Ross & Co. LLC, based in New York, USA, and HDFC
Ltd.
The company has its manufacturing
facility in Amritsar, Punjab, India and its
Corporate Office in Delhi, India. The
Company has a sprawling 37 acre complex
that houses a new age plant with an annual
capacity of 6 million meters of fabric and
an employee base of 1,500. OCM, one of
India’s largest fabric manufacturers, has moved onto a new a charter of
transformations across manufacturing, product development and in revitalizing the
well reputed OCM brand in the Indian market to strengthen its business in India and
in overseas markets. OCM is the umbrella brand name for its extensive range of
fabrics for men’s suiting, jacketing, trousering, and shirting and a vibrant Women’s
Wear range under the brand name Women’s Exclusives (We) introduced in 2014.
Lightweight woolen blends, textures and colours in the new collections to meet the
needs of the modern Indian woman, be it for western formal wear, social or
ceremonial wear, would constitute a strategic priority for OCM going forward. The
OCM Quality Assurance Laboratory has successfully obtained accreditation from
NABL – National Accreditation Body for Testing and Calibration Laboratories for
fabric tests in accordance with international standard ISO 17025: 2005 in 2015.

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Specialities
▪ Fabric manufacturing
▪ Suitings
▪ Trousering
▪ Shirting
▪ Jacketing
▪ Women’s Wear
▪ Sweaters
▪ Woolens
▪ High end suitings
▪ Cashmere
Headquarters
New Delhi
Company size
1001-5000
Website
http://www.ocm.in
Industry
Textiles

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DYEING
The dying lab is where the process of garment production takes off.
Selection of recipes for lab dips occurs in the dying
lab. Before bulk production, a small dyed sample is
made. Initialization of standard operations and
troubleshooting in case of failures also occur here.
Procedure
▪ A company sends a sample to OCM which is
directed to the dyeing lab.
▪ The sample is analysed to gather information
regarding its composition.
▪ Numerous machines are used for testing, for
example the IR machine or the glycerin bath
machine to examine colour fastness.
Infra Red Machine
The laboratory has three IR machines. Beakers made of stainless steel are fully
rotated to establish uniform dyeing. Thermal sensors control the temperature and the
heating machine does not release disconcerting fumes.
Glycerin Bath Machine
This machine is appropriate for building a dyeing recipe for viscose, wool and,
polyester. The temperature controller inside the machine has s battery backup,
operator call and cooling coil.

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Batching
Batch section is a preparatory stage of
dyeing. It prepares the grey fabrics for dying
and processing for its corresponding order.
Top And Yarn Dyeing
Top Dyeing
Here, the dying of fibre happens immediately
before the appearance of finished yarn.
Combed wool sliver forms the top. The dye
solution is passed on the perforated spools
where the fibre is wound, which causes
smooth and even dyeing.
Yarn Dyeing
In yarn dyeing, dyeing is not done until the fiber has undergone spinning to form a
yarn. The dyestuff pierces the fibres until it reaches the interior of the yarn. Yarn
dyeing has its benefits when we have to ultimately produce multi-coloured designs
like checks and stripes.
HTHP Yarn Dyeing
▪ The machine has a beaker, a tank and a gear box.
▪ Such machines usually comprise of 3 tanks, one of them being the main carrier
tank.
▪ One tank prepares the required amount of dye liquor.
▪ The other subsidiary tanks pour the rest of the chemicals needed for pre-
dyeing and after-dyeing.
▪ A pump forces liquor movement in the main tank.

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▪ Both yarn and top dyeing can be done through an HTHP dyeing machine.
Hydro extractor
Hydro-Extractors are also called Centrifuges. Centrifuges are used for water
extraction (dewatering, pre-drying) of textile materials. Values of approx. 15% for
residual moisture content can be achieved depending on the type of textile fiber.
Most centrifuges have electric drives for speeds
of approx. 750–1200 rpm and are generally
provided with automatic control over various
ranges. For safety reasons, an interlocking lid is
essential on a centrifuge so that the motor cannot
be started until the lid is locked, nor the lid rose
until the basket is stationary again after the
machine has been stopped.
RF dryer
Conventional mode of Drying Textiles after they
have been dyed is a slow process. Textile
industries can increase throughput and fill orders
more prominently using Radio Frequency (RF)
Dryers. RF system has capability to accelerate the drying process and shorten
production time.
RF drying offers high volume, high speed and high quality drying which is what is
exactly needed in textile industries. As wet garments of acrylic, cotton, nylon and
polyester blends pass through the drying chamber, the radio waves vibrate the
contained water molecules million times per second, vaporizing them. Ventilator
fans are used to remove damp air from the drying chamber.

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Fabric Dyeing
The dyeing of cloth after it is being woven or knitted is known as fabric dyeing. It is
the most common method of dyeing used. The most dyed fabric is piece-dyed since
this method gives the manufacturer maximum inventory flexibility to meet color
demands as fashion changes. The various methods used for this type of dyeing
include jet dyeing. Jig dyeing, pad dyeing and beam dyeing.
Jet Dyeing
Jet dyeing is a process that can be used for batch dyeing operations such as dyeing,
bleaching, washing and rinsing. In this process, dyeing is accomplished in a closed
tubular system, basically composed of an impeller pump and the shadow bath.
Soft Flow Dyeing Machine
▪ In the soft flow dyeing machine water
is used for keeping the fabric in circulation.
▪ The key difference of this equipment
from a conventional jet that operates with a
hydraulic system is that the fabric rope is kept
circulating during the whole processing cycle
(right from loading to unloading).
▪ There is no stopping of liquor or fabric
circulation for usual drain and fill steps.
▪ The principle working behind the
technique is unique.
▪ There is a system for fresh water to
enter the vessel via a heat exchanger to a
special interchange zone.
Jig Dyeing
The Jig Dyeing process involved treating fabric in an open width. Fabric is not
immersed in a dye bath, but rather is passed through a stationery dye bath. Upon
completion of the first pass, the fabric reverses and is passed again through the dye

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bath. To produce darker colours, the fabric must pass through the dye bath more
times than when a lighter shade is desired. Indirect steam is given to maintain the
temperature of the bath.
SPINNING
The process that takes up raw fibre and converts it into yarn form is called spinning.
Spinning is an imperative process because it is simply not feasible to make garments
directly out of fibre.
For a long course in history, spinning was carried out with hands, which was a slow
and exhausting activity that kept getting more intelligible through introduction of
new machinery from time to time. At this date, there are a variety of spinning
techniques implemented by different industries that have sped up and simplified the
original process by miles. Economic consequences and difference in material are a
couple of reasons for diversity in techniques.

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At OCM Amritsar, open-end spinning is
executed. A heap of fiber laps collected by the
industry is directed towards the sections of
carding, combing, twisting and winding.
Those fiber laps of different materials are later
mixed in fixed ratios to produce blends.
Following are the different processes in the
spinning department –
1. Blending
The spinning room accommodates a total of
three blending machines run by two operators
each.
Fibres of the same material are carded into a sliver, which are then sent to a blending
machine whose basic purpose is to mix two different types of fibres. In the machine,
the weight, oil, and moisture content of the sliver is inspected.
Each machine contains a two coiler mixer which yields two slivers out of ten input
slivers. The raw material put into the first blending machine produces an incomplete
mix, hence, its output material is passed towards the second machine which blends
the sliver even more thoroughly. By the time the material completes its journey in
the third machine, it becomes fully blended.
Each blending machine runs on a speed of around 180 to 250 RPM. The overall
production of one blending machine is 1000 to 1300 kilograms per shift.
2. Combing

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The basic purpose of combining is to obtain a uniform blend of the fibre. The
combing machine helps in getting rid of neps, tiny fibres and pin points along with
dust and other impurities present in the material. The objective is to achieve yarns
of good quality.
The combing section has a total of 22 machines, with one worker to handle about
six machines. A machine with three pulley mechanism runs only on 3 fixed speeds
– 175 MPM, 190 MPM and 210 MPM.
The process starts off by feeding the machine with 24 slivers of about 30 grams per
meter each. The comber expands the sliver length and flattens it to a uniform level,
thereby weakening the sliver. The output is a single sliver of a weight of 23 grams
per meter.
The production for one machine is 150 kilograms per shift.
3. Post combing
Since the sliver from combing has weakened down, it is redirected towards the
ginning fragment where doubling is repeated.

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The process of autoballing is executed after
the re-ginning of slivers. Here, the material is
ginned to build up its strength. The machine
owns the property of automated wrapping of
the slivers. When one roll is completed, it is
removed from the machine and the machine
automatically resumes the process with the
next roll.
A single machine is used for both post
combing and autoballing. Out of the total three
machines, each is operated by one worker. The
machines also end up having an additional
function of auto-levelling, where they
maintain the ratio between weight to length.
Each machine runs at a speed of 200 to 230 MPM with a production of 1200
kilograms in one shift.
4. Drawing
In drawing, a chain of rollers run over the sliver to level and weaken it. The end
result is a pack of sliver with more straightened individual fibers.
The drawing machine holds four passages for four different tasks –
P1 – Mixing
P2 – Auto Levelling
P3 – Bi-coiling
P4 – Tri-coiling
Three machines with two workers handling each one run on a speed of 200-250
RPM. The overall production by a single machine is 1000 kilograms for one shift.

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5. Roving
Roving is the meeting ground between sliver and yarn. Here, an individual strand is
formed by rubbing the loose fibers with slight twists.
Here the mechanism for roving is the rubbing-fasting system.
A total of five machines of speed 160 RPM are stationed. They are 40 spindle
machines that individually produce 800 kgs of material in a single shift.
6. Ring frame
The ring frame basically adds fineness to the roved yarn. The process ultimately
develops a continuous yarn by ample number of twists to the fiber strands.
Also called zincer, the ring frame is a 556 spindled machine working at the speed of
8000 RPM and at a drafting angle of 45 degrees. One worker handles all three
machines.
Input bobbin of 278 leads to output bobbin of 556. Here, the weft thread is autoconor
single yarn and the warp thread is TFO, 2 ply twister.
7. Autoconer machine
The autoconer machine is beneficial in extracting faults such as thin place thick place
splicing. The machine transforms small package into a bigger standard package and
can form 258 cones for once.
It has the mechanism of air suction for getting hold of threads and runs on
approximately 700-800 RPM

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8. Parallel winding
The procedure of parallel winding takes up
a machine of 120 spindles of 1 kilograms
each. It functions on a speed of 300 MPM
and an input of 240 returns an output of
120.
9. Steaming
Releasing of the yarn’s stress and setting
up the twist is what steaming and
conditioning does. This activity can be
either done after one implements the TFO
twist or after the autoconer winding is
completed.
4 boilers, each of 500 kgs are attached to the machine. The machine is turned on for
45 minutes on an optimum temperature of 87ºC.
10. TFO Twister
TFO twister stands for Two For One Twister. The spindle inside this machine
performs at an extreme speed of about 7000 to 8000 RPM. At OCM, we have several
TFO twisters, all containing 144 spindles.

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WEAVING
Weaving is the process of uniting warp and weft components to form a woven
structure. In weaving, lengthwise yarns are called warp, while the crosswise yarns
are called weft.
Design development
OCM’s plan of action hugely encompasses the fragment of designing. Here, we
observe customer-marketer meetings where the customer explains their desired
garment and features to the marketing agent and the marketing agent carries the same
message along with the pricing information to rhe designing department.
Process
▪ The requirements received by the marketing agent are sent along with samples
gathered from the customer to the designer.
▪ Through the samples, the fabric goes under scrutiny where the designer tries
to inspect how that fabric can be made.
▪ Aftef sufficient scrutiny, the designer reverts fo the marketing agent with their
examined report and cost of production, and all of this information then being
sent to the customer.
▪ The customer’s approval opens doors for bulk order.
▪ Also, handloom samples of about 12 x 8 inches are separately created for the
customers.
▪ The customer checks the design on the sample and a paper printout of the
design in different colours is taken.

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Warping
Before weaving takes off, a lengthwise thread called warp is linked with a thread.
Warping is done on singular yarn packages produved in the spinning and winding
section. A warp beam is made ready by wounding ends coming from a number of
winding packages on one common package at the time of warping.
Necessities for warping:
▪ At the time of thread withdrawal from
supply packages, the tension of every
wound end should remain consistent.
▪ The tension should be of medium level so
that the yarn fully retains its strength and
elasticity.
▪ It must be ensured that warping is done
without harming the mechanical and
physical properties of yarn.
▪ The warping package must have a
cylindrical surface.
▪ The length of warping should be decided
before hand.
Direct warping
Also referred to as beam warping, direct warping is a high speed warping technique
where wounding of yarn is aligned with the beam. Flanged beam is used for this
process.
Here, warping is done with immense speed to obtain a montonous colour all over
the fabric, and all the yarns are wound at one time.

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Direct beaming is a fruitful method due to its quality and performance. Accurate
cylindrical winding, density of winding, and precious length prove satisfactory at
the end.
Sectional Warping
This method is aimed to produce the warp sheet depending on the warp pattern and
warp beam formation. Sectional warping is used for garments with same design and
different colours. In sectional warping,
The warp threads are wound on the warping drum sectionally. After winding on
drum it is then taken on weavers beam. The yarns which are coming from double
yarn room are going for winding for preparing required amount of package. Then
they are then creeled according to the warp pattern.
Drawing-in & Denting-in
▪ Drawing-in is the process where warp yarns are drawn from the heald shafts
according to the weave plan.
▪ Denting-in is the process of drawing the warp yarns by reed wires, as per the
reed count. Both processes occur in the loom gaiting operation.
▪ The space between warp threads determine the compactness of the fabric.
Hence, putting the warp yarns into reeds of suitable count is extremely
important.
Rapier Weaving
Rapier systems come in lots of varieties.
A Rapier in its simplest form contains a single rigid bar, solid or telescopic and a
damp device called gripper head screwed at its feed end. Here there is 100% control
over the weft throughout the pick insertion cycle.
Loom Shed
A loom shed is divided into 4 units and a total of 120 looms.

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For example,
Shed – A
▪ It occupies 22 machines
▪ Maximum allowed width of fabric : 190cm
▪ Avg RPM range : 200-260
▪ Max heald shafts : 20
▪ Colour selector max : 8
Shed – B
▪ It occupies 42 machines
▪ Maximum allowed width of fabric : 190cm
▪ Average production rate of a loom : 12 m per
hour
▪ Avg RPM range : 380-420
▪ Max heald shafts : 20
▪ Colour selector max : 8
▪ Automatic Pick finding mechanism
Similarly, there are Shed – C and Shed – D.
Dobby Shedding
A Dobby Loom is a type of floor loom that controls the whole warp threads using a
device called a dobby. Dobby is short for “draw boy” which refers to the weaver’s
helpers who used to control the warp thread by pulling on draw threads.
Computer Controlled Dobby Mechanism
A computer controlled dobby loom (Computer-Dobby) takes this one step further by
replacing the mechanical dobby chain with computer controlled shaft selection. In
addition to being able to handle sequences that are virtually unlimited, the

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construction of the shaft sequences is done on the computer screen rather than by
building a mechanical dobby chain.
This allows the weaver to load and switch weaves drafts in seconds without even
getting up from the loom. In addition, the design process performed on the computer
provides the weaver with a more intuitive way to design fabric; seeing the pattern
on a computer screen is easier than trying to visualize it by looking at the dobby
chain.
Weaving Mechanism
There are three motions of weaving: These are primary, secondary and auxiliary
motion.
1. Primary motions
Every loom requires three primary motions to produce a woven fabric. These
motions are Shedding, Picking and beating.
Shedding – Shedding is the name given to the motion, which moves heald frame up
and down in order to separate the warp sheet into two layers and form the shed in
which weft yarn is passed.
Picking – Picking is the second primary motion in which weft yarn is passed through
the shed. This is known as picking.
Beating-up – Beating up is where the reed, mounted in a reciprocating sley, pushes
the weft into the fell of the cloth to form fabric. This requires considerable force,
hence the term beating-up. The crankshaft of the loom is responsible for the beat-up
action which must take place after each weft insertion and so it will make one
revolution per pick inserted.

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2. Secondary motions
There are two secondary motions in weaving namely let-off and take-up.
Let-Off – The let-off motions ensure that the warp ends are controlled at the
optimum tension for the fabric that that is being woven.
Take-up – The cloth take-up motions withdraw cloth from the fell and then collect
it at the front of the loom.
3. Auxiliary motions
Auxiliary motions are warp stop motion, warp protector, weft stop motions and weft
replenishment.
Warp stop motion – Warp stop motions halt the loom when a drop wire falls as a
result of end breakage.
Warp protector motion – Warp protector motions stop the loom before beat-up in
the event of projectile falling to complete its traverse from one side of the loom to
the other side.
Weft stop motion – Weft stop motion halts the loom in the event of a break in the
weft yarn.
Weft replenishment – Weft replenishment ensures a continuous supply of weft yarn
to the loom whenever a supply package becomes exhausted.

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MENDING
Mending is a crucial process in which woolens and worsted fabrics are carefully
sought upon usually from naked eyes on an inspection table so that this process can
wipe out defects like tears, holes, broken yarns, and missed weft or warp yarns.
The mending capacity of the respective
department in OCM is up to 12000 meters
per day. In cases where there are huge
quantity of defects the output reduces even
up to 5000 meters however these instances
are exceedingly rare since OCM has strict
guidelines for maintaining quality check.
Fabric that comes out of greasy perch is
checked on the mending table and the
defects such as bunches, missing end,
missing pick, and knots are corrected. There
are defects that cannot be mended, for
example, temple cut, damage and wrong
draft.
The general tools used for mending are-
Forceps- It is used to pluck and grasp threads for mending.
Erasers- It is used to straighten pulled or tight threads in the cloth.

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Needles- It is used to repair defects such as missing pick and missing end where
filling is done depending upon the fabric’s design.
When the fabric is brought to the mending department it has to be mended and
checked for defect and then it has to be sent to the finishing department. Fabric is
brought to the department for the weaving department after every shift.
Fabric Inspection is done for fault/defect rate, fabric construction, end to end or edge
to edge shading, colour, hand or feel, length/width, print defect and appearance. It
ensures to minimize the rejection of cut panels or rejected garments due to fabric
faults.
▪ Production is 2000m per shift per machine.
▪ Total inspection machines are 12.
▪ Total number workers for two shifts are 110.
▪ 4-Point inspection system is carried out in the industry.
INSPECTION
Process Flow Of Inspection System
Inspection process is done in 2 stages.
In the first stage fabric is thoroughly inspected for defects such as holes, slubs,
knots etc. and flags are put accordingly.
Red flag – this flag is put for detecting holes and the fabric is cut from that point.

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White flag – this flag is put for detecting small defects which are so small that it
cannot be cured and discount can be provided on such fabrics.
In the second stage fags are removed and points are given according to the 4- point
system.
Weighing
After the 4-point inspection
system, fabric is being cut
in certain amount
according to the buyer
requirement and is being
weighed on the weighing
machine. If all the fabric
cut is of same weight then
it is then sent for folding
and packaging, but if there
is difference in weight then
the fabric lot is resent to the
inspection system for
rechecking process.
Folding
After the fabric is weighed, it is then sent for folding. Two types of fabric folding
are done in the industry- one is cardboard folding and the other is folded in roll form.
Fabric which are used for domestic purposes are folded by cardboard folding
machine and the fabric which is to be sent for export are folded in roll form.
Packaging
After folding, fabric specification tag and barcode is attached to each and every lot,
then it is packed and sent to the fabric warehouse.

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FINISHING (Specialization)
Mended fabric is directed towards the finishing department for its treatment. The
term textile finishing refers to putting the fabric through mechanical and chemical
processes to achieve the required benefits. Amending the final appearance of the
fabric and altering its hardness are among a lot of things that finishing can offer.
At OCM, a total of 102 workers are employed in the finishing department.
1. Singeing
The purpose of singeing is to get rid of standing fibres and fuzz resting on the fabric.
The fabric is passed over a gas flame with enough speed to burn only the projecting
material and not the fabric. The same process can also be applied on yarns.
The singeing machine encompasses three sections:
Brush section – To clean the dirt or dust
Burner – To take away unwanted fluff
Water rollers – To bring coolness to the fabric
Fabric coming out of the mending section is immediately washed to withdraw the
stains that might have arised during the course of mending the fabric by hand.
▪ The singeing machine: Osthoff-senge VPGG

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▪ Model: U9793.
▪ There is one singeing machine in total.
▪ Machine speed is 100-120 RPM.
▪ The temperature inside the chamber of flame is 100℃.
▪ Intensity of flame for all wool is 12 millibar, while the intensity of flame for
terry wool is 8 millibar.
▪ Intensity of flame height is 6mm and temperature of flame camber is 110℃.
2. Wet Section
Washing of fabric with the help of common detergent to get rid of stains of oil and
dirt accumulated on the fabric occurs in the wet section.
There are two types of washing – Rope washing and Open width washing.
Rope washing
Here, the fabric is washed in rope form. This method is specifically used for wrinkle-
resistant fabric as this type of washing is done by twisting the fabric.
▪ Terry wool and all wool is washed.
▪ There are 12 machines for washing.
▪ The temperature for washing is 50℃
▪ It takes up to half an hour to complete a wash.
▪ Speed of the machine is 50 to 60 RPM.
▪ Chemical used for rough fabric is soda ash.
▪ Softener is applied in case of coarse material.
Open width washing
In this method, the fabric is washed in open width form which makes it feasible to
wash fabric which is not wrinkle-resistant.
▪ It is used to wash polyester material.

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▪ There are a total of 4 such machines.
▪ It occupies 6 tubs, one for soaping, four for water washing, and one for acetic
acid bath to neutralize the cloth.
▪ Average speed of the machine is around 12 RPM, but can reach a maximum
of 20 RPM.
▪ It runs on a temperature of 45℃.
▪ Overall production for a machine is 3000 meters per day.
▪ Washing uses softeners.
Scouring
▪ Scouring is a process in which we remove the natural impurities, dirt, greasy
spots (from loom) etc.
▪ These impurities interfere with subsequent finishing process, therefore
scouring is must.
▪ Therefore, a special scouring process is carried out in which the material is
first padded with special scouring
chemicals on jigger and batch is left over
night.
▪ After this process, normal scouring is
carried out on the dolly rotary machine.
▪ Composition of scouring liquor is governed
by nature of oil which has to be removed.
Scouring chemicals are generally acetic
acid and soda ash.
Hemmer Machine
▪ This machine is used for both scouring and
milling of the fabric.
▪ Both length milling and width milling can be done in this machine.
▪ It consists of two pairs of top rollers and bottom rollers.
▪ Fabric is passed between these rollers in rope form.
▪ Plates are provided which can be controlled pneumatically.

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▪ Water inlet and drain valve are also open closed pneumatically. Machine
capacity is 200 kg.
Matt machine
▪ There are 2 matt machines installed.
▪ The machine contains a couple of pipes, each for the purpose of steaming and
throwing water.
▪ This machine has the feature of adjustable fabric length.
▪ All wool has a production of 300 meters per shift.
▪ Terry wool has a production of 600 meters per shift.
Dolly machine
This machine is used for scouring and width setting of the fabric. The dolly machine
is constructed with two heavy squeeze rollers and guide rollers. The bottom heavy
roller is driven by chain pulley drive given from outside.
The top roller rests on this roller with fabric between them in rope from and is
frictionally driven. A metallic plate is situated under the heavy rollers to catch the
expressed liquor. The pieces of cloth are made into endless chains in such a way that
they pass through the squeeze rollers, over guide rollers and under the though. The
top roller is soft rubber coated and bottom roller is made of hard ebonite.
In the metallic plate, a steam pipe is provided which is perforated to heat the water.
Four jets of water at the back side of the machine spray water with force on to the
fabric. A maximum of four ropes can be treated together and the maximum capacity
of dolly machine is 150 kg.
Hydro-extractor

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Once the fabric is done with washing, it is sent to the hydro-extractor which removes
the remaining extra water.
▪ The hydro-extractor works on the theory of centripetal force.
▪ It has a heat setting of 185℃.
▪ 300-320 meters of fabric require 45 minutes for extraction.
▪ Depending on the fabric weight, the end-production comes out to be an
average of 9800 meters per shift.
Milling Purpose
It is done to shrink the material to
maximum possible extent so that it
does not shrink during its end use.
This process is based on the principle
that the wool gets shrinked when it is
rubbed in wet conditions and at a
certain temperature.
The lot is loaded into the machine and
its ends are stitched together to form an endless rope. The machine consist of a fan,
which blows air onto the fabric so that it opens before entering the compressing zone
with closely placed steel bars followed by squeeze rollers.
The fabric then slides over the tray in plaited form before being drawn away by the
winch rear and thrown into the milling liquor. During the milling cycle the milling
liquor is also continuously sprayed over the material before entering the compressing
zone. The liquor is withdrawn from the additional tank, which is continuously
replenished by withdrawing the milling liquor from the bottom of the machine.
Drying And Heat Setting

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The drying and heat setting both is done by a stenter. The essential part of the
machine, the endless chain called pin plates run forward each side of the stenter
frame.
The fabric lies stretched in open width across the stenter frame and between the two
chains of the pin plates. It then rises upward in front of the operator and is contacted
by the first scroll roller, then by a smooth idling roller followed by the main feed
roller, rubber coated to insure good control.
As the chains move forward carrying the fabric, it is arranged that they gradually
diverge to required width and the fabric is thus stretched out to the width. Once the
fabric has been brought to the required width, the two chains of the pin plates run
parallel and take the fabric through a long, lightly constructed, heat insulated
chamber where the drying takes place. It reaches a point when it leaves the pin plates
and is folded into laps in trolley.
Near the end of the machine the fabric is lifted of the pins by the driven take off
roller and passes round a pair of draw rollers, which deliver to an overhead plaiting
mechanism. A large wire mesh screen is fitted in the side to remove fly or lint
entering the system. Heat setting is done to avoid formation of creases and shrinkage.
Drying machine
From the name itself, it must be clear that this machine is used for drying the fabric.
▪ At OCM, we use the Harish Hot Air Stenter.
▪ Its speed varies from 15 to 20 RPM.
▪ Machine speed for terry wool is higher than for all wool.
Shearing machine
Shearing machine, as the name suggests, is employed for cutting the pile from the
surface of the fabric. The chamber has 6 cutters and 6 brushes.

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▪ To clear out the random length fibres and produce a uniform and level pile.
▪ To reduce the height of the wild fibres and prevent pilling.
▪ To produce a certain handle.
▪ To improve the colors and appearance of the fiber.
In a shearing machine there is a spirally wound shearing blade, which revolves in
contact with a ledger blade. The fabric passes over a cloth rest in front of ledger
blade and the raised fibres flop against the ledger blade and are cut by the rotary
blade. Suction units are incorporated for cleaning the working units .an automatic
seam unit allows the steam to pass through.
There are six searing units divided in three sets, each seats working on both faces of
the fabric simultaneously. In this machine, the speed of the fabric passage through
the machine is 20- 25
meters/min and speed of
the spiral blades is 1200
RPM.
▪ There are a total of 3
machines.
▪ The shearing process
takes 45 minutes to
complete.
▪ Overall production
is 9000 meter per
shift.
Decadazing Paper Press Machine

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The root motive of this machine is to provide a shine effect to the fabric. It is mainly
used for expensive wool. The paper press machine contains an electronic cardboard
which radiates heat.
Two cardboards are used to press and heat the fabric kept between them for 60
minutes. Then, the hydraulic power comes into the picture to apply a pressure of 250
tons for continuous 8 hours.
Hence, the machine helps removing moisture from the fabric. 14 hours of utilisation
produces 1000 meters of output fabric.
Rotatory machine
The material after cropping which is not decadised is taken for rotary pressing.
It is a continuous process i.e. fabric is fed from one side and is pressed in the machine
with the help of iron roller and pressed fabric received from other side of the
machine. The machine consists of roller and metallic plate having same curvature as
that of the roller. The material entered is taken over vertical moving roller, which is
hydraulically controlled to properly aligned fabric at the centre of the machine.
The material is passed over two brushes to remove dust and loose fibres. The
material is then taken to the main pressing zones. Under this roller is a heated steel
plate which can be moved up or down to press the fabric against the roller. Rotary
process gives fabric a crisp handle and increase in luster.
▪ This machine provides metal to metal finish.
▪ Metal beds of 118℃ and metal rollers of 130℃ are attached inside the
machine.
▪ When we let the fabric pass between the rollers, the end result is a fabric with
a lustre of its own.
▪ It is employed for lightweight as well as low cost fabric.
Kier Decadiser Process

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▪ The kier decadiser process is suitable for a permanent finish.
▪ This machine gives luster, smoothness and soft surface to the fabric.
▪ Also, it controls fabric shrinkage both lengthwise and widthwise, and provides
bulkiness to the fabric.
▪ While handling wool, the machine works at a temperature of 200℃ with upto
3 kgs of pressure per square centimetre.
▪ This machine practically restricts wool from shrinkage.
▪ It is also called final finish as after this, finished fabric will not shrink after
washing, generally in case of wool fabric, as during spinning and weaving,
the fibers get stressed( due to sulphide bonds in wool structure).
▪ In kier decadising, the sulphide bonds get relaxed and get rearranged.
▪ Wool is set at the temperature of 200℃ and pressure 2.5kg/sq.cm.
Super finish machine
The super finish machine constitutes of a metallic roller and a silicon bed. The silicon
bed offers softness and lusture while the metallic rollers impart shine.
The rotating cylinder is heated internally by steam. An endless thick belt (silicon
rubber blanket) is arranged which presses lightly against the greater part of cylinder
to ensure that there is no friction or slip between the two.
The suitably damped fabric is fed between the blanket and cylinder an is so laid
around the cylinder until it arrives at a point where the blanket leaves the cylinder
and under the influence of this pressure and the moisture from the steam, the fabric
has its surface completely smooth to acquire soft handle.
Temperature of the roller is kept at 140 degree. This machine gives smooth handle
and lustrous look to the fabric.
Formula 1 press machine
▪ This is a double time press machine which comes with a silicine belt.
▪ There are a total of 2 such machines.

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▪ This process takes place in a soaring temperature of 135℃ with a pressure of
90 kgs in one square cm.
Perching machine
When the fabric has underwent all the processes, it is directed towards the last step
in the finishing section. Here, the fabric keeps rolling down on a perch while the
workers inspect it for knots, holes, or any other defects.
QUALITY ASSURANCE
The quality control department checks the fabric during
and after its manufacturing process to ensure that it
does not fall below the expected standard.
The department has two sections – physical section and
chemical section.
Physical section
This section tests physical properties like weight and
length of fabric.

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GSM tester
It is an exclusive instrument that tells the GSM of the fabric. Cloth cut from the GSM
cutter is weighed in the instrument.
Martindale tester
This tester is of two types.
Tester for abrasion – Fabric is mounted flat and rubbed in a figure eight like motion
using a piece of worsted wool cloth as the abradant.
Tester for testing pilling – Fabric is mounted flat and rubbed in a figure eight like
motion, rubbing as well as the specimen fabric are same and no weight is applied
over it. Size of specimen are of 90mm and 45mm can be used while testing pilling
according to the requirement.
Tear Strength Tester
Tear strength is the force required to continue a tear or rip already stated in a fabric.
This test is used mainly in woven fabric because the test is unidirectional and woven
fabric have unidirectional yarns.

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▪ Tearing distance is 43* 0.15 mm
▪ Size of slit is 20 mm
▪ Reading of scale is about 0 to 100 range
▪ Pendulum release mechanism – manual through
brake release pin.
▪ Figure : Tear testing machine
Yarn Twist Tester
This is to determine yarn twist in single and double ply
yarn. Rotation is checked to find the twist per inch.
Crockmeter
To determine the Colour fastness of Textile to Dry or Wet Rubbing as per
ISO/European Standards.
Colour Matching Cabinet
To access the colour matching of Yarns & dyed or printed fabrics or any material
anyway coloured. OCM boasts economical colour matching Cabinets for buyers.
The control panel is ergonomically designed for operator comforts. Interior paint,
matching with Munsell N/7 is of high standard. Easy foldable type metal sheet body
eases transportation & Installation.

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Digital Twist Tester
▪ Specially designed for single yarn, open-end
yarns and double yarns, this device is used for
determining the twist per inch or cm.
▪ It owns a digital control panel along with LCD
display.
▪ The tester has a mechanism of smooth
precision.
▪ It is supplied with inspection certificates.
▪ Correct tension is achieved by providing the
machine with 50 grams of weight.
pH meter
▪ A pH machine evaluates the Ph value of a solution.
▪ At OCM, we have a pH machine of a compact size with inbuilt microprocessor
control and digital display.
▪ It is supplied with inspection and calibration certificates.
Yarn Evenness Tester
▪ This tester is used for retrieving irregularities in yarn such as thin place, thick
place, and slubs.
▪ Winding of the yarn is executed by two types of boards.
▪ There is a whole separate unit for holding yarn bobbin.
▪ Yarn wrapped on the board can be 20,22,26,32,38 & 48 ends per inch.
▪ The machine is equipped with traverse speed options for fine to rougher count
of yarn.
▪ It is supplied with calibration and inspection certificates.
Microscope
▪ The microscope is used for fibre identification or fibre analysis.
▪ At OCM, the microscope has a maximum resolution of 1000X.

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▪ It can perform multiple types of measurements including area, length, count
of any fine textile fibre.
▪ No other machines does textile fibre analysis better.
▪ It is supplied with complete accessories which includes stage micrometer for
calibration.
▪ The machine is supplied with calibration & inspection certificates.
Dyemaster
▪ The dyemaster is used to do sample dyeing
with infrared heating.
▪ Twelve beakers of 200 ml are supplied to dye
12 samples together & temperature up to 140
degree C with infrared lights.
▪ Eco-friendly equipment, which does not give
any residue & latest microprocessor based
control panel for temperature & time.
▪ Inside dye assembly pot moves at variable
speed in both directions.
▪ Stainless steel body & beakers gives rust-
less long life & Smooth, precision
engineered components for exceptional
performance.
▪ There is special cooling blower for instant cooling of the bath.
▪ Supplied with all accessories along with tong for removing beakers.
▪ Supplied with calibration & inspection certificates.
Washometer
The washometer is used for determining color fastness of textile materials to
washings. This is attained by mechanical agitating a specimen of textile in contact
with pieces of specified adjacent fabrics in a soap-soda solution, before being rinsed
and dried.

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The change in color of the specimen and staining of the adjacent fabrics are assessed
with standard gray scales.
Pilling Tester
▪ Digital Pilling Tester consists of two wooden cubical Boxes with inside
surfaces lined with special standard cork sheet and outside surfaces
beautifully laminated.
▪ These boxes are rotated about their central axis at a specified speed with the
help of a geared motor.
▪ A Pre-set Digital Counter stops the motor automatically after the desired
number of revolutions
Hot air oven
The oven controller has Special T/P action to avoid overshooting of temperature. It
has Stainless Steel inside Chamber, Outer is Mild Steel neatly powder Coated.
It is complete with hot air blower and digital temperature indicator cum controller.
A separate control panel housing all indicators is provided on the right side of the
main body allowing easy maintenance and accessibility aesthetically designed for
long life and comfortable usage.
▪ Maximum temperature range in the oven is about 105-1070C.
▪ Required power is 220V-240V single phase 1 KW.
▪ Inside dimensions of the oven is 455mm x 455mm x 455mm.